#97 The Three Tiers of Nomos Watches

[@donnathomas7302]

Almost a year ago I asked for your help in buying a watch for my son who was graduating from college. I ended buying the Nomos-Doctors without Borders with the Alpha movement. He recently started a job that requires business dress 4 days a week and wears his Nomos with a suit. Thanks for your help. I always enjoy your videos.

[@watchartsci]

Donna, what a great choice!! It's doubly cool because it's a Doctors without Borders model! Kindest regards, Bill

[@donnathomas7302]

Thank you. When he was 16 he picked Doctors without Borders as a charity to give money to, so it was very meaningful.If I recall correctly, Nomos gives 100 USD per each watch sold.Happy holidays to you and yours.

[@watchartsci]

Donna, that makes it ever more meaningful! Merry Christmas & Happy New Year! Bill

[@Claus-L.Mueller]

Hi Bill! Nomos is the biggest German manufacturer of mechanical wrist watches. Hard to believe, because their image is still like a small startup company. I like that. The Alpha and Zeta movements are the older and more basic movements as you said. They are based on the construction of similar ETA movements. But - as Nomos says on their German website - the Alpha is their first, oldest and still the most used manufacturer caliber. It is considered of being inhouse even so the escapement or assortment isn’t made by Nomos. The same could be said about the Zeta, their first automatic manufacturer movement. Since 2014 Nomos is able to produce their own escapement with balance, balance spring, pallet wheel, and pallet. Itˋs called Swing System because of the anchor/pallet is swinging forwards and backwards. From now on Nomos is a fully independent watch manufacturer who is able to determine their yearly number of produced watches by themselves and aren’t depending on the delivery from the swatch group. The Genever stripes used by the companies in Glashütte are called Glashütter Streifenschliff/stripes - obviously! 😉 I used to own a Ahoi Atlantik Datum and still own an Orion Datum which I consider to be my prettiest watch in the collection.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Claus, thanks for all of that information. Forgive me is I'm a bit cynical about what watch companies call 'in-house' when their movement is almost identical to a Peseux 7001 or an ETA auto. The Alpha, Lambda, Zeta and other Greek alphabet movements may have some in-house, but ... However, 2014 definitely marks Nomos mfg. as their own. I looked for the swing and couldn't see it. Their Alpha appears to have a similar regulator/balance wheel cock, but does it swing? (I know Alpha is not considered part of the Swing System) Anyhow, do you happen to own a Nomos? I'd like to hear from someone who has one and has used it to get their feedback. Kindest regards, Bill

[@franciscoechegaray1134]

Claus-L. Müller nomos isin't the gratest.You have Lang&Shone in first place,and glashutte in second.

[@Claus-L.Mueller]

Francisco Echegaray Nomos is producing the highest number of mechanical timepieces per year.

[@Claus-L.Mueller]

WatchArtSci Hi! As I mentioned I owned a Ahoi Atlantik Datum. In my eyes a perfect one-watch-collection. Dressy enough to wear it with a suit but as good with shorts and polo shirt. And I still own my beloved Orion Datum with the creamy dial and the blued hands. IMO my prettiest watch in my collection.

[@watchartsci]

Claus, I looked at the Ahoi Atlantik Datum, and that is an unusually beautiful watch! Love the way they use color in that watch! Cheers, Bill

[@rmoraespinto]

Excellent, as always. I believe that the format that you have chosen for your videos is the best. And you, Sir, are like a friend talking to us. Congrats!

[@watchartsci]

Hey Ricardo, thanks man! If it needs improvement; just let me know. Kindest regards, Bill

[@michaelkalb2896]

This video on Nomos is as relevant today as it was when you created it five years ago. I love the Nomos pieces in my collection which consists of their standard Horology and strong Horology as you described. I love wearing them, talking with other Nomos enthusiasts who “get it” and writing about them too!

[@watchartsci]

Mi Bauhaus es su Bauhaus! I like what they've done with the Lambda, Michael, Take care, Bill

[@TootDubai]

Great to see you covering Nomos. My favorite complication in a watch is the GMT and I recently purchased the Nomos Tangomat GMT. One of the nicest GMT watches I’ve ever owned. I travel with this watch the most and one can easily wear it with a suit. However, I do wish it has more water resistant than the 3ATM. Overall, a very accurate and charming watch with a creative GMT function.

[@watchartsci]

Hey TootDubai, great to hear about the Nomos GMT. A GMT is one of my favorite complications; mainly because it's useful and an accurate one can be the traveller's best friend. I didn't notice the 3ATM -- have to be careful washing your hands! I like the looks of the Tangomat and maybe there'll be a Nomos in my future. Cheers, Bill

[@obud3777]

The Alpha movement although based on the preceeding Nomos 1 TSP, it was largely constructed in-house rather than being a refinished ebauche. The gear train is similar to the Peseux 7001, but was placed in a new enclosure based on the classic Glashuette three-quarter plate design. Nomos updated many of the components, adding hacking seconds, Triovis fine-regulation and completely reworked the finishing with rodium-plated surfaces, blued screws, Glashuette stripes, and Glashuette solar grinding or Langeleist-perlage.

[@watchartsci]

Hey O Bud, thanks for those details. I happen to like the Peseux 7001 as a tough little mechanical wind, and I wonder if any of the Peseux 7001 parts are interchangeable with the Alpha?🤔 Take care and stay safe, Bill 😷

[@kaekayyy2554]

Very well informed review of the brand. Enjoying your old videos in these times of desperation help me out a lot!

[@watchartsci]

Hey, Kaekayyy, very glad to hear you like them. Well, we're all in the same desperate boat, and we'll all get out together. Take care, Bill

[@richardjones2609]

Deutsche Uhrenwerke (DUW) - German Watch Works

[@watchartsci]

Thanks Richard! I always get them mixed up with UWD since I've been looking at UWD 33.2s. Take care, Bill

[@eddiedevonrex2308]

Hi Bill, just pulled trigger on a nomos Club Amsterdam edition, limited to 75 pieces, usually procrastinate till the nth degree when purchasing anything, but on this I pressed the buy now button, please have a look, the red dial etc just clicked my boxes, simple alpha in-house honest movement, it comes Wednesday, cheers

[@watchartsci]

Eddie, that's an insanely cool watch! I couldn't find it on the Nomos site but finally located it in a review. I've been debating about a California dial, and I think I'll get one. I was looking at such a dial today...but hesitated. Very cool! Cheers Bill

[@kennethtape3362]

Once again you have 'risen to the occasion' and given us another great video, thanks Bill :)

[@watchartsci]

Hey Kenneth, thanks man! This Friday, you'll see more from Nomos! Cheers, Bill

[@newsigmundfreud3023]

*Thank you very much for a thorough insight about Nomos watches. I appreciate you sharing this with anyone and everyone who would listen if there is anyone willing to share mature knowledge and experience.*

[@watchartsci]

My pleasure Siggy! They have the wonderful dual characteristics of simplicity and beauty. Kindest regards, Bill

[@newsigmundfreud3023]

@@watchartsci Yes, the clean, fine, perfection and seriousness without any pressure. Their watches are humble while being high up there. I wonder if after time it lacks time or it keeps being as accurate as a good quartz movement watch would usually do? By the way, " "Weißgold" meaning White-Gold is pronounced "Vice Gold". We keep on living and learning.

[@watchartsci]

Thanks Siggy ... Vice Gold ... sounds very interesting ... like German Silver isn't silver; vice gold has no vices but is silver in color instead of white! Cheers, Bill

[@thomashendrick6711]

Always really appreciate, naturally, your indepth, and easy to understand, yet very very thorough videos. Thank for this one and so many other, well all the others too.

[@watchartsci]

My pleasure, Thomas! We are a community of watch lovers! Take care, Bill

[@markmaier2503]

I ordered a NOMOS Orion date two days ago. Looking forward to receiving it!

[@watchartsci]

Mark, I'd like to hear about it. Did you order it directly from NOMOS or a dealer or individual. Once you get it, let us know how to you like and and how the transaction went. Thanks, Bill

[@markmaier2503]

Hey Bill. I ordered it NEW from a dealer on Chrono24. I like the way they protect everyone in the financial transaction. Of course, I got a great deal too. Btw, I love your FP Journe. Did you purchase it new? If so, where did you purchase it?

[@watchartsci]

Mark Maier I bought it used from a dealer on 47th St in NYC. I liked the deal that I bought another one.😊

[@juniorjohnson5961]

Bill this is the first video that I've had the pleasure of watching being fairly new to the Utube watch community one of the best videos I have seen sofar Thank You

[@watchartsci]

Junior, welcome to the Watch ArtSci Channel! If there's a watch or topic you're interested in, you can enter the search word in "Search box," above. If there's a topic, you'd like to see, just ask. Kindest regards, Bill

[@Mtalll1]

what do you guys think about stowa? I really like nomos but I find stowa has better pricing and more history.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Mtalll1 , you are right about Stowa; they have good pricing. So much 'history ' of watches is one of stops and starts, it's difficult to tell what's what. Kindest regards, Bill

[@emilpman]

hi Bill, Nomos has been making their own in house movement, stepping away from ETA For a long time now. Their old Alpha and Zeta movements are also in house built. They make their own escapement and their own hairspring now [that's the new DUW line, the "swing" system].

[@watchartsci]

Hi Hermanoberth. I looked closely at how they discussed their Alpha and Zeta movements and they seemed to be "not exactly" in-house whereas their DUW line definitely is. Read closely how Nomos describes them...they appear as they don't exactly want to take ownership of them, and I think that Claus is right when he indicates that both are too close to ETAs. On the other hand, with the DUW, they take complete ownership. Having said that, I've always liked Nomos because 1) they make fine watches, and 2) they're honest. If Nomos owners of Alpha and Zeta based watches want to give full credit to Nomos for their movements, that's fine with me. However, the Nomos watchmakers seem to want Alpha and Zeta not to be too closely associated with them as they do with the DUW line of movements. Kindest regards, Bill

[@petert3412]

Thanks for the info. Always interesting and a couple notches above the typical reviewers . I always learn from your presentations. After watching your review I find myself having the feeling like you are about to tell us to study for the up coming examination. Thanks again

[@watchartsci]

Hey Say It! Thanks man! If I didn't get such great collections to review and had so much fun, they wouldn't be very interesting to anyone! Cheers, Bill

[@VmanStudioz]

Hi Bill - I'm a new fan of your channel. I loved the fact you covered Nomus, I would agree with your assessment. For as little as $1200 on the pre-owned market, you can pick yourself up a basic Nomus. These make great little dress watches and offer a lot of value (as you covered) compared to the mass produced stuff and certainly makes for a great first watch - for people that want to get into the hobby. I've owned there blue world timer (GMT) which is a really fun piece to wear. Keep up the awesome content!

[@watchartsci]

Welcome Paul! Nomos blue World Timer is a sweet watch. The latest video is on German craftsmanship in affordable watches. Cheers, Bill

[@Tuneitupful]

Bill, an excellent video. I am looking to by a Nomos and thus has helped a great deal to under all the different movements.

[@georgegrillo7421]

Hi, Bill I have enjoyed your videos for a few months now - great stuff! I have an Atlantik from Nomos. Pretty whacky design for a 200m watch - thin profile, glass back, small crown. Comes with a second strap: a thin woven plastic water proof number. I have quite a few watches in my collection ~200 from a Charlie the Tuna 25th annual commemorative quartz model to some rather high zoot pieces although I don’t go above about $15k. Some are big, many are small by today’s standards . Some tasteless, some elegant and a few are complicated or unusual but I wear ‘em all. Thanks for your channel!

[@watchartsci]

Hey George, thanks man! I looked at the Nomos Ahoi Atlantik Datum, and that's quite a watch and with their Swing System Escapement. How do you feel about it? With 200 watches I can imagine it may get lost in the shuffle, but since I'd never go beyond "Desk Diving" it may be the perfect diver for me! Cheers, Bill

[@georgegrillo7421]

I passed on the Datum...... got the plain old Ahoi. It 'wears big' which is good and bad. The straps are not the most comfortable so I swapped out the original for a softer alligator one I found. Its a great watch for the tropics . My tropical rotation includes the Nomos Atlantik, a Patek Aquanaut, a Rolex Seadweller and a Chopard LUC -One. Oh, and a new one I got recently a JLC Master Compressor in 18K RG for going out to dinner. Maybe I will run into you some day in NYC!

[@watchartsci]

Wow George! That's an impressive rotation. The Patek Aquanaut is one of the most under-appreciated Patek Philippe watches there is. I love 'em! Cheers, Bill

[@ttrexster]

Hi, thanks for the review. Re 13:00, that letter ß is a double-s, so the word is Weissgold ("vice gold"), meaning "white gold".

[@watchartsci]

Thanks for the clarification on that letter ß. If I can remember it, I'll try and get it closer next time! Kindest regards, Bill

[@TheHynza]

how do you classify their world timer? high horology or strong?

[@watchartsci]

Hi Hynza! Using the tier system, it would be Strong Horology, but that doesn't mean it's not an excellent World Timer-it's a beautiful world timer! Cheers, Bill

[@anshulgupta9412]

Brilliant video. Thanks.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Anshul, thanks man! Take care and be safe, Bill😷

[@fayssalk]

Hey Bill, I’m falling in love with the Zurich worldtimer. Some refer to it as a GMT and not worldtimer, doesn’t having the country disc and the ability to set the time based on city make it a world timer? My Explorer II is an gmt .. what’s your take ?

[@watchartsci]

Hi Fayssal, they're often used interchangeably , but a world timer has the names of 24 cities around the dial and GMTs don't. A world timer is also a GMT in that you can see the time in more than one place; namely 24! A Regular GMT just shows an additional hour. My Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hémisphères is a dual-time in that it has two dials that can be set separately. You Explorer II and my Zenith Elite GMT are both GMTs. Cheers, Bill

[@fayssalk]

WatchArtSci so what would you consider the Zurich weltzeit as ?

[@watchartsci]

The Nomos Zurich Weltzeit is a world timer. Cheers, Bill

[@9time007]

How frequently do you send your FPJ for service? And how much does it cost for servicing?

[@watchartsci]

Hi Vinjay about every 4 years of use. If you rotate them; then you can stretch it further than 4. The cost depends on the type of watch. The base service charge is around $1,800. Cheers, Bill

[@jasonbannan4024]

Nicely done Bill.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Jason, thanks man! Take care and be safe! Bill 😷

[@David_Best]

I'm about to order a Nomos Autobahn. But to your final point, I see absolutely no contradiction between a Bauhaus dial and their fancy engraving on the high horology movement. To me, both have a statement to make, and you're never looking at both at the same time. I'm one who appreciates the elegant simplicity of the Bauhaus designs, but can also appreciate and enjoy very ornate and complex designs and engraving, but just prefer the former for normal everyday viewing. Thank you for this video.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Best! I love the Nomos Autobahn! Good points about Bauhaus designs! Thanks, Bill

[@markpercival2619]

Always watch your videos, but I rarely comment. Claus L has all the correct info on NOMOS that I was going to add and share. Keep going as there are so few decent watch vlogs covering the scene in an independent manner, as you do. Thanks.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Mark, thanks man! Some people are really into a brand, and it's always great to hear what they have to say; far more depth than I can get into the time allotted to me on KZbin. The part I enjoy the most about KZbin are the discussions!! Cheers, Bill

[@harrycee656]

Just to help clarify. Nomos does sell direct. However they do have ADs. Great watches. Look forward to getting the Tangente Neomatik next year.

[@watchartsci]

Harry, I just shopped online for a watch at Nomos-you can buy online directly from Nomos. Check it out: nomos-glashuette.com/en/checkout/bag ... Take care, Bill

[@bigdaddy1279]

Mentioning prices would be appreciated.

[@watchartsci]

Big Daddy, you must know the variation in watch prices...from MSRP to collectors finding their own Best Buy. The changes from 2017 to now are such that any price mentioned in the original video are moot. Take care, Bill

[@georghelpenstein-michels6586]

as someome who will never be able to afford the tip of the iceberg i love companies like Nomos where I, from a lot of viewpoints, still be able to come closer to higher horology than i would have thought 20 years ago. Thx for your down to earth very informativ contents.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Georg, lots of great buys on Nomos; pre-owned are especially good deals. Take care and be safe, Bill😷

[@aaronberkowitz1803]

The Epsilon and Zeta automatic movements are fully in house, NOT based on ETA, even the versions without the swing system.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Aaron, you're right about the Epsilon, and it's touted as the caliber that led Nomos to be recognized as a 'manufacture.' The Alpha and Zeta, though manufactured by Nomos, are a bit different. Neither is listed as "in-house" as are the others in the Nomos online catalog. Nomos has too much integrity to claim either as 'in-house' because that suggests it's been fully designed as well as built in-house. On the Zeta, the only claim Nomos has of originality is the date mechanism. Kindest regards, Bill

[@aaronberkowitz1803]

WatchArtSci unless I am mistaken, the zeta is the exact same movement as epsilon but with a date mechanism added to it.

[@watchartsci]

Looking at what Nomos says about the Epsilon: "NOMOS caliber ε (Epsilon) - NOMOS Glashütte was awarded the status of caliber manufacturer after developing its own automatic movement, Epsilon," and Zeta, "NOMOS caliber ζ (Zeta) - NOMOS’ automatic caliber is enhanced further with a patented date mechanism." Actually, neither mentions "in-house" so it's difficult to know exactly what's going on with the actual develop of either caliber, other than the fact that the other movements clearly state "in-house." For example, "NOMOS Caliber DUW 3001-the in-house, automatic movement equipped with the NOMOS swing system. " If you're interested, see if you can get a clarification from Nomos and maybe I can do a follow-up video on Nomos calibre development. Kindest regards, Bill

[@aaronberkowitz1803]

I found this on the Nomos Website: "Zeta is of course just as competent as its fellow caliber Epsilon, which is the non-date version." nomos-glashuette.com/en/watchmaking/nomos-movements/miracle-movements#/en/manufacture/caliber/zeta This makes it seem reasonably clear to me that Zeta and Epsilon are identical movements, one with date, the other without. This is also the case between their Alpha and Beta movements (Beta is just an Alpha plus a date function). I own an Epsilon caliber Nomos Ahoi Atlantik, and when I bought it I compared it with the Ahoi Datum, and the calibers appeared identical to me through the display back, though I am not a watchmaker. For me, I am satisfied that Epsilon and Zeta are the same caliber, and all that is said of Epsilon also applies to Zeta. I do not think "In house" is a particularly technical or legally defined term, so if Nomos claims to have developed Epsilon themselves, I would consider that an in house movement as the hardest part of in house movements is the R&D. So here is my understanding, Alpha and Beta calibers are built in-house, but based on the Peseux 7001. The Epsilon and Zeta calibers are the first in house developed calibers. The DUW series is their new line featuring the added component of the in house escapement known as the swing system, and what they call "ultra thin" automatic calibers. I think it is impressive that Nomos is making in house, ultra thin automatic movements. This puts them in a small group along with Zenith and JLC, but Nomos is doing it at a more affordable price point. I have a Nomos Minimatik with the DUW 3001 and it has run exactly +5 seconds per day for the last year, and its only 8mm thick. Your videos are thoughtful, intelligent, and classy. I appreciate what you do. Thanks! Aaron

[@kallensaczkowski]

The alpha to the best of my knowledge is an in house movement.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Kallen...the Alpha is "sort of an in-house" ... essentially, it's a copy of the Peseux 7001 (later the ETA 7001) that was built by Nomos with minor modifications. Check out : www.eta.ch/en/our-products/mechanical-movements/mecaline-specialities/eta-mecaline-specialities-7001 and then look at the stats on the Alpha: nomos-glashuette.com/en/watchmaking/nomos-movements/miracle-movements#/en/manufacture/caliber/alpha . All of the Nomos Greek-letter movements are based on the Alpha (See watchbase.com/nomos-glashutte/caliber/alpha ) On the other hand, all of the DUW movements of Nomos are pure Nomos .... designed and developed by Nomos. Kindest regards, Bill

[@mathieuvaillancourt3219]

@@watchartsci they got a new "alpha" movement that start with a duw- that means this movement has their swing system instead of the nivarox hairspring.

[@mathieuvaillancourt3219]

His standard horology is the same level than strong imo. Each movement are adjusted to six positions.

[@antonbayda2571]

Thanks, appreciated!

[@AndyGarton]

Good video. I'm one of the very few (I assume) owners of the Lambda, and I chose it over a Lange Saxonia, and I'm very glad I did. I know not many will share this view, but it's a fantastic watch, and one I don't intend ever to sell (which is a good job, because I think it would be hard to find a buyer, and if I did, the depreciation would be huge!).

[@watchartsci]

Hey Andy, which model did you get? I never worry about depreciation; I enjoy may watches and if I have to take a hit, I do without crying about it. I really like the Nomos Lux Zobel; the 'other' Lambda. Congratulations! Kindest regards, Bill

[@AndyGarton]

Hi Bill, I got the 39mm rose gold version, with blue hands. Lovely classic piece, with the unusual twist of the large power reserve display. I spend as much time looking at the back as the front though! The movement is gorgeous, and I just love the hand engraved "made in Glashutte with love" script.

[@watchartsci]

Andy, this is the first I learned of the "made in Glashutte with love" engraving. How cool is that! Cheers, Bill

[@AndyGarton]

WatchArtSci Yes it’s a lovely touch - every watch is slightly different in this respect, and the engraving is endearingly “messy” in places, made by a human, not machine!

[@watchartsci]

Andy Garton A very classy touch found only on the very best 😎

[@sandydenny4ever164]

Good to have you back Bill. It's nearly but not quite with Nomos for me, with my big elephant C.Ward orig m'ment beside me.Nice dial colours mind.

[@watchartsci]

Great to hear rom you SD4E!! I take it you're not a Nomos fan; not everyone is, but I tend to really like them. C. Ward is starting to do some interesting horology! Cheers, Bill

[@sandydenny4ever164]

I am SDL, but my new computer won't let me use it. The higher up Nomos's have charm, esp from a few years back, but their movements are dwarfed by their Glasshuite betters. I guess I just don't dig the bauhaus eternal same face design.

[@watchartsci]

I think Nomos is heading in the right direction, but Bauhaus isn't for everyone. Cheers, Bill

[@hymonom]

Thank you for the video, great upload!

[@watchartsci]

Glad you enjoyed it Syvate! Take care, Bill

[@fkurcik]

Good review. What's the deal with those thin hands. Can't they make them a bit thicker, with a bit of lume. That would increase the usability factor of their watches by 50%. I guess they are afraid that such a thing would no longer be a Bauhaus style.

[@watchartsci]

Thanks Frantisek! I don't know what to tell you about the hands. It probably is due to the Bauhaus style. I wonder if they put a little Breguet ball on the end of each it it would help? Cheers, Bill

[@patricabruce1428]

WOW french hat . Hermes tie . Fancy.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Patrica....pretentious attire knows no bounds...kindest regards, Bill

[@hoffmancapote]

The Alpha movement has been made in house for quite a few years. This is why the later Tangente watches go for quite a higher price at the auction houses. There are actually very few watch companies that make evetything themselves. There are two dial companies in Switzerland that make dials for over 95% of Swiss watches including the in house watch makers. I think this is the sensible way to go. Why try to make everything alone when some parts are made much better by individual companies who specialise in those parts. I visit Switzerland quite often and the watch companies agree that some of good ETA movements modified by the watchmakers are better than many in house movements. Naturally when one gets into the $50,000 price this is not the case

[@watchartsci]

Hey Brian, the Alpha is basically a Nomos-made Peseux 7001, and Nomos has the good grace not to claim it "in-house" even though it is in most respects. Yes, the établissage system worked well for years in Switzerland, but computer-regulated production sort of put the kibosh on that. Nothing wrong with ETA or Sellita movements, but it's only when companies like IWC, Breitling, Montblanc ... etc use made-up caliber names for ETA/Sellita movements that it rankles. If they "modify" the ETAs, I'd like to know what "modifications" they use ... wouldn't you? Take care and be safe, Bill 😷

[@DEXVD]

Have held a long standing interest in the NOMOS brand, especially some of their smaller pieces. Honestly the big thing that has kept me from purchasing a piece is their lug style. I generally find them to be too long and out of proportion with the case size. If the lugs were a bit shorter on the ref 740, Nomos Club Neomatik I would have one as a summer watch, would look great with a polo and take me anywhere from the pool, beach, golf course or a BBQ. However I fear the lugs would be overhanging my wrist or close too it!

[@watchartsci]

Hi Dexvd, that's a wise analysis. One of the advantages of vintage watches (which probably does not include Nomos) is their size tends to be smaller...and their prices lower. So in looking for a smaller summer watch, you might want to look in the time period prior to the early 2000s. Good luck with your search for an appropriate watch. Kindest regards, Bill

[@DEXVD]

@@watchartsci Hi Bill thanks for your thoughts. That certainly is a time period I have looked at closely for a potential daily driver, swim and sports watch, when watches like the Explorer and Aquaterra were available in a 36mm case size. I do question myself on whether I would be confident to travel the world with and really abuse an Explorer if I should look to something less dear and more affordable like the 36-38mm Aquaterra, 36mm Seamaster Professional or a Sinn 556. Its tough to find that balance between something you would be proud to have on your wrist for many years and proudly show other watch geeks and something that wouldn't ruin a vacation should it disappear, whether slipping off your wrist on a dive, skiing, surfing, hiking or stolen. I had messaged you a direct (although lengthy) question on Instagram on a different comparison of watches, not sure if you had received it but figured it was a bit off topic to comment on any of the videos, should I email instead? I have come to the point where I have a collection of over a dozen vintage watches, with none but my Hamilton Khaki Field purchased in High School being younger than 30-40 years. Certainly would like to pair back the vintage pieces in favour of having at least one more modern small (33-35) dress watch and midsize sports watch.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Dexd, best to send me an email. Thanks, Bill

[@crappyluxurypdx]

Nomos Club 774 is a favorite. If I had any money, I'd buy it.

[@watchartsci]

Yes, CW, that Club 774 is a nice one. Like everyone else, all we can do is work, save and hope. Cheers, Bill

[@galja6889]

Wonderful video ! Your un boxing watch did look brand new. I have an older glashutte (pre 1991) That has the Bauhaus dial that I couldn't place until I saw this video. If there is away I will send the picture. The movement as I recall was pretty basic ,but I am going to take a look again. Do you want your Nomos watch club watches to say Bill Sanders or WatchArtSci?

[@watchartsci]

Hi Galja, thanks man! The pre-1991 Glashütte were part of the old Soviet-era VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe. That would be a very interesting watch to have! If I did have club watches from Nomos, they'd show Watch ArtSci & High Horology Forum! However, I have no plans for a club watch from Nomos or anyone else in the foreseeable future. Kindest regards, Bill

[@meisterpotato1516]

Watch ArtSci, you are the MAN! very interesting sense of fashion, i like it. Just for clarification, Nomos Swing System meaning the entire escapement including the heat blued hairspring are all made in house. DUW stands for Deutsche Uhrenwerke (German Watch Works). Furthermore, Nomos have been producing all their movements in house for years now, including the alpha which is based on the peseux 7001, however, highly modified. The haute horology series isn't really fully reflecting Nomos' brand philosophy but rather just meant to prove that they are indeed competent in movement manufacturing. They're just simply trying to make fun and simple watches for creative art loving hipsters and not really targeting serious collectors as in collectors who are mainly attracted by a brands or the watches heritage, or actual horological unicorns such as MB&Fs HMs or Urwerks creative perspectives. It would be highly appreciated if you could try not to spread any more misinformation on the line because you seem like a knowledgeable chap and the last thing we want is for people who trust you as a competent source to believe something that is blatantly false. I like your Journe btw. Keep up the good work and try not to get too caught up in your future research.

[@watchartsci]

Meister Potato, so glad you wrote. I wouldn't want to spread misinformation, but if you mean that it's at odds with your advertising campaign; then it's the opposite of misinformation. However, you speak of your (or Nomos' if you're not a Nomos employee) years of experience making movements and cite the Alpha based on the Peseux 7001. You must mean like the Sellita SW210-1 is modeled after the ETA 2801-2? I give Nomos far more credit than you do based on what they say about their own movements. To wit: "NOMOS caliber α (Alpha) - Our all-rounder: NOMOS’ oldest caliber is still the most popular one. A short summary of the technical data: diameter 10½ lines, power reserve circa 43 hours. With stop-seconds mechanism, Glashütte three-quarter plate, Glashütte stopwork, Triovis fine adjustment regulator, 17 jewels." There's nothing about in-house that I can see. Can you? I think the developers at Nomos had too much integrity to call it "in-house" when it is simply a Peseux 7001 with a Nomos 'touch' in the same way that a Sellita SW210-1 is an ETA 2801-2 with a Sellita 'touch.' On the other hand, look at how they describe the DUW 4401: "NOMOS caliber DUW 4401 - The first NOMOS caliber with the in-house built NOMOS swing system. Some of the technical details: manual winding, date mechanism and power reserve indicator, both patented, tempered blue balance spring, movement individually numbered on the three-quarter plate, 23 jewels, fine adjustment in six positions, Glashütte sunburst and NOMOS perlage." There's that word, "in-house" as indeed it should be....but wholly lacking in discussions of the Alpha. That was pretty much what I said. Be very careful what you write because, you may be in the opposition to the carefully maintained integrity of Nomos. You may accomplish tarnishing the reputation of what I consider to be an honest watchmaker, and your clumsy attempt at "correction" has had the opposite effect of your intention. Kindest regards, Bill

[@dimitripappas4534]

I think Nomos does make their own hairsprings now..

[@watchartsci]

Hi Dimitri, thanks for that update! Sounds like Nomos is really coming into its own!. Kindest regards, bill

[@humanbeing1675]

Yes..that's why they call it the Swing System.

[@m0tiii]

How about the autobahn?

[@watchartsci]

Eldy, yes! That just came out this year, and I like it. It has a DUW Nomos manufactured caliber movement. Good hunting! Cheers, Bill

[@m0tiii]

in which tier is the autobahn? btw you have a very good YT channel, and a very interesting watch collections. cheers

[@watchartsci]

@@m0tiii Definitely Strong Horology. All of the DUW movement watches are Strong. Cheers, Bill

[@jorgem8384]

Makes a video about Nomos....casually unboxes a F.P Journe Youre a legend

[@watchartsci]

Yeah Jorge! What kind of guy does that? Take care and be safe, Bill 😷

[@idid1866]

Having a Standard movement watch keeps them in business...collectors, alone can't keep them afloat... that simple!

[@watchartsci]

Hi iDid, yes, the Standard Horology watches keep the ship afloat. I guess we collectors just like the frosting on the cake. Cheers, Bill

[@JohnDoe-ub8fq]

That's how Swatch saved Omega, Blancpain and others!!

[@cedshred1676]

Weißgold is pronounced vice-gohld. The „ß“ represents „ss“, so Weiss and Weiß are basically the same.

[@watchartsci]

My great-grandfather immigrated to the United States from Germany ... so while I like to hear German, my language skills are such that I'm at a loss. However, I do appreciate your help, and slowly I may be able to pronounce more German correctly. Take care and be safe, Bill😷

[@washingtonfootballfanwgil8392]

I just found your channel. I'm subscribing immediately! Wow, not one but, two F.P. Journe! I have a couple Vostok Amphibia. Their movements are inhouse. Are they "high horology?"😂😂😂

[@watchartsci]

Hey RP, thanks!! I have exactly 1 watch with an alarm. My Vostok!! Cheers, bill

[@harcotelindert]

Great video Bill... it's called Weissgold (the B is a double ss replacement in German) and is the German for whitegold.

[@watchartsci]

Thank you Harco! I never knew that the ß was a double-s replacement. That helps a lot. I like the German for white gold; it looks a lot cooler!! Cheers, Bill

[@brianlong76]

I am sure this has all been explained to me before but your explanation finally got through my thick skull. My only issue now with Nomos is their ETA equipped line being a thousand dollars more than a similarJunghans, unless I am still missing something.

[@watchartsci]

Brian, we can only make so much sense out of the watch business, and then it's madness! Take care, Bill

[@artl52]

Great video, Bill. re: the Alpha, Nomos leads one to believe it is an in-house movement. Quoting from their site - "The Alpha caliber is NOMOS Glashütte’s highly acclaimed classic. It was our first movement". Maybe it is in-house, just basic?

[@watchartsci]

Hey Art, thanks man! I looked at Alpha closely and it kept shouting "I've got a Peseux base...." and never once do you see the word "in-house" or "Nomos manufacture" in relation to their Alpha or Zeta movements. On the other hand, with their 'Swing System' all you see is 'in-house' and 'Nomos manufacture' ; so while Alpha is their first movement [that they created using an ETA base], it's not exactly their first 'in-house' movement. Kindest regards, Bill

[@justmyfreak]

CMIIW. I believe the apha is also inhouse movement. But it use Nivarox escapement.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Zainul! They do say it's the "first one they made" but they don't exactly say it is in-house. They still don't make the hairspring (they quit using Nivarox springs, though) with the Swing System. I think they got their ébauches from ETA and assembled them at Nomos. Look at the Peseux 7001 and then look at the Alpha. What do you think? Kindest regards, bill

[@TheDanishSpaceman]

WatchArtSci I love your channel! The DUW 4301 is, I believe, identical to the Alpha movement but using the in-house hairspring (the Swing system). Both the Alpha and DUW 4301 are based on a Peseux 7001 design, but entirely inhouse made (almost for the Alpha i.e.). www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-nomos-glashutte

[@watchartsci]

TheDanishSpaceman Hey thanks man! That clarifies a lot. I see why Alpha and Zeta might be considered in-house and even though Alpha is a lot like the Peseux 7001-it’s not exactly... an exact copy.🤔 Kindnest regards Bill

[@jashoo8597]

Nomos is definitely worth every penny. I’m not sure but I think they might be replacing all alpha/zeta movement with duw? Bcos my classic tangente datum has duw.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Jas Hoo. I think you're right about the replacement of the alpha/zetas with DUW. Indeed the Nomos are worth every cent spend on them. Kindest regards, Bill

[@gilbertombp]

Hi Bill, among Nomos' offerings, I'm seemingly veering towards the Tangente 38 Date or the Orion 38 Date. It seems a date counter has become an essential for me when picking watches!!!

[@watchartsci]

Hi Gilberto! Looks like two good choices. The Orion is a bit more formal and the Tangente is a better price and an ideal office watch. Let me know which one you pick! Cheers, Bill

[@TimQueenan]

Congrats on getting the CS back. Long time coming. And what a new strap! Be fun to put it on timegrapher and see its new pulse. ;)

[@watchartsci]

Hey Tim, it was gone too long! However, they do a bang-up job and you know what they charge for new straps! So getting one included is huge! One thing I noticed is that as I wind it, there's a lot of resistance. When I originally sent it in, it wasn't unwinding all the way (power reserve indicator down to 40). Since your CB and my CS have the same movement (except for the PRI), I was wondering what kind of resistance you experience when you wind yours? Cheers, Bill

[@TimQueenan]

WatchArtSci I don't notice a lot of resistance when winding my CB. I guess without any true measurement to share it's a bit subjective. Will send you a video to show you it in action.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Tim, I watched the video and it's clear that you're not getting the resistance that I do. I have to wear my jewelry gloves so I don't sand down my fingerprints! I'll let Emma (the guardian angel they assigned) know and find whether it's an expected resistance or not. Timegrapher is happy! Cheers, Bill

[@polarroller4848]

I've always been fascinated with Nomos. They seem to get a bad rep among many watch You Tubers tho. I've come close to purchasing one, but just haven't pulled the trigger yet. I love the dial with that big sweeping power reserve on their top model.

[@watchartsci]

PR, I like all of their watches with their 'Swing System' escapement. I think their Alpha movements are a pretty close clone of the Peseux 7001 and Zeta are some kind of ETA close copy of an automatic. But their Swing System watches are the real deal. Cheers, Bill

[@sacundim]

Nomos hasn't used straight ETA movements for a long time now. They started out in the 1990s using a standard ETA 7001. They they switched to their Alpha movement, which is their customized in-house clone of the ETA 7001-wheels and the rest of the assortment in the same locations as the 7001, but with their own top plates for the movement (3/4 plate instead of the split plates of the 7001). Then after that designed and built a handful of further features on top of the Alpha: 1. Automatic winding, which I believe they designed and fitted to the base Alpha design themselves (there's no such thing as a selfwinding version of the ETA 7001) 2. Date, with their own patented design (which places the date wheel around the movement bottom plate instead of on top, in order to give a bigger date display and not increase the thickness of the movement) 3. Power reserve indicator 4. A hometime/timezone complication with hour hand adjustable in hour increments, tied to a city disk 5. Their own in-house escapement (the Swing System) Then most recently they designed and built their 3001, which is a very thin automatic winding movement they designed from the ground up. In that regard, I think when you label their watches variously as "standard horology" vs. "strong horology" based simply on whether they have the Swing System, you're exaggerating the difference between the watches. For example you show a Tangomat that has a non-Swing automatic movement, but it's still a Nomos-designed and built automatic movement that they partially modeled after the ETA 7001 and also has a third-party escapement. Then you show a Tetra Kleene with a DUW 4301 which is really the same movement as the Alpha but with a power reserve complication (of their own design) and the in-house Swing System escapement. I.e., even their bottom of the line houses are built in-house and mostly from in-house components, but as you move up their range they become considerably more so.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Secundim, thanks for trying to clear everything up. Your comments, while helpful, could use a little clarification and context. The Peseux 7001 seems to be at the heart of the issue since it was used in so many Nomos watches from the outset. The Peseux 7001 first came out in 1971 right about when the quartz crisis started brewing and in many respects was 'saved' by ETA when they purchased Peseux in 1985. The Peseux 7001 was so good that ETA didn't want to "disappear" it totally and re-named it ETA 7001 and made it part of their movement group called Mecaline Specialities. (Often you will see references to ETA/Peseux 7001.) The part of the story that's most important is historical and involves another company named Stowa that started making watches back in 1927 with watches centered around Flieger and Bauhaus designs. In 1937 Stowa introduced a watch in the Bauhausstyle that was later re-issued as the Antea Classic using the ETA/Peseux 7001. (It was re-designed in 2015 as well still running on the ETA/Peseux 7001.) So if you want to go back to the roots of Nomos, I suggest you start with Stowa in 1937 in the Black Forest and not in 1990 Glashütte. As for Nomos and their "in-house" movement, I think that the "Swing System" as a starting point with the DUW calibre designation is a bit more realistic than either the Alpha or Zeta calibre. (By the way, I did not say that that Alpha [ne. ETA 7001] included an automatic calibre; that's the Zeta and that's what I said.) If the DUW 4301 is "the same as the Alpha" why did Nomos refer it as "DUW 4301?" To call the DUW 4301 "an Alpha with a Swing System" wholly contorts the DUW 4301. The Swing System is transforming far more than a movement, like the Alpha modeled on the Peseux 7001.The heart of any movement is the escapement (including the balance wheel, escapement wheel, regulator and balance spring and related parts.) Unless I wholly mis-read the Swing System, that's exactly what it is. So let's give Nomos credit where it's due; in the Swing System and subsequent developments in later Haute Horlogerie in the DUW 1001 and 2002. Then we can trace the dominate Bauhausstyle style of Nomos not merely to 1990 in Glashütte, but all the way back to 1937 when Stowa first introduced it. Kindest regards, Bill

[@sacundim]

Hey Bill, First point: as I recall, Nomos have said that the inspiration for the Nomos Tangente was a Lange wristwatch, and I've seen photos of a 1930s Lange that has the look... as well as of the 1930s Stowa watch that you're thinking of. The explanation for this is that in the 19th and early 20th centuries the watch industry in European countries was much less integrated it is today, with many smaller businesses who specialized in different components of the watch. Neither Stowa nor Lange came up with the design. They both simply ordered dials from the same dial-makers. Stowa's FAQ page (www.stowa.de/en/Infos/FAQ/) has an entry on this point, written by Jörg Schauer himself, which I'll quote: "It hardly matters which firm did design these dials, because the designs themselves simply do not belong exclusively to any one company; rather, they came into being during a particular era in the dial industry in Pforzheim and Switzerland. [...] Besides, the modus operandi of many existing and former dial factories is and was much the same. There would have been a creative or design department, which would show their dial collections to the watchmakers several times a year. The watchmakers (amongst whom there are some very successful brands today) selected their dials and ordered them with their name on them, with possibly very minor changes being made to them by the dial manufacturer." This is a point that's easier to appreciate if you study late 19th century watches. One of the most striking facts about them is how they all look basically the same on the outside. Our modern culture of originality in watch design where companies feel compelled to make unique looking watches is a 20th century invention (Schauer makes the same point on his FAQ entry). Heck, lots of late 19th century watches are completely anonymous-they weren't even signed by their makers! Second topic. Perhaps I did not make myself clear, but I did not say that the Alpha movement has an automatic winding system. I said that Nomos designed their first generation of automatic-winding movements (the Epsilon and its more complicated versions like the Zeta) as more complicated variants of the basic, hand-wind Alpha movement. Third topic: "The Swing System is transforming far more than a movement, like the Alpha modeled on the Peseux 7001.The heart of any movement is the escapement (including the balance wheel, escapement wheel, regulator and balance spring and related parts.)" I'm afraid this confuses the roles of design and manufacture. The point of the Swiss System isn't that Nomos designed a novel escapement-it's a straight-line lever escapement of the same sort that has been well understood since the 19th century and that everybody uses. The point is that Nomos is actually manufacturing the escapement-the most delicate subsystem of the watch-in their own facilities, instead of outsourcing it. If you look at Nomos' product line from their foundation, what I see is a cost-conscious but ambitious company that has been very shrewd at taking small, incremental steps to become gradually more and more autonomous and original while keeping the lights on the whole time. First example is that when they decided to make their own movements in-house, they didn't do a completely original design, but rather they decided to reproduce the tried-and-tested ETA 7001 they already used (and their people were familiar with!) but with small differences to add some distinctiveness (e.g., the three quarter plate on the Alpha). While people dis them as "not really in-house" for that, they manufacture the movements in their own facility, and that's a big deal-manufacturing movements in large numbers is difficult! And where others see unoriginality, frankly, I see caution and shrewdness-particularly when you keep in mind that alongside this project, they designed their own original complications as add-ons to the basic movement. Again, it's a mix of cost-consciousness and ambition-don't take unnecessary risks, and save up resources for the projects that are likelier to distinguish your product from competitors' (complications rather than the basic movement design). Similarly if you look at the second generation Nomos "greek letter" movements and their third-generation "DUW" movements (not the 3001!), you'll notice that there is a very close correspondence between each member of the former and one member of the latter. For example the DUW 5001 is evidently the Swing System version of the Epsilon. The plates are evidently the same, and you can bet they have near 100% parts commonality (because of course they'd want them to, so they can save money): nomos-glashuette.com/en/watchmaking/nomos-movements/miracle-movements#/en/manufacture/caliber/epsilon nomos-glashuette.com/en/watchmaking/nomos-movements/miracle-movements#/en/manufacture/caliber/duw-5001 And then the new generation of Nomos movements is the DUW 3001, which is the one I think of as their bold step forward-where they've designed a movement from the ground up to serve the kinds of watches that they would rather make (a self-winding watch in the same case thickness as their handwinding models) instead of having to compromise their designs around more conventional movement designs (Epsilon/DUW 5001 watches like the Tangomat are inelegantly chunky). Note that while you pay a lot of attention to Nomos' haute horlogerie offerings, I haven't even mentioned them until now, because they just don't play a big role in how I think of the company. I like their design sense (of which I think their Metro model is the best ambassador rather than the Tangente) and their business sense-which, again, I think of in terms of their rather successful mix of cost-consciousness and ambition. Final point: the reason I object to the way you apply your distinction between "standard horology" and "strong horology" to the "Greek" and DUW movements respectively is that I think that both represent a gradual, cost-conscious move away from their original ETA 7001 watches, which are the ones that I think properly deserve the "standard horology" designation. Again, the Alpha may be heavily based on the 7001, but they manufacture it themselves, and that's a big deal-one that I contend should be enough to place them in your "strong horology" category. The Swing System is just a lever escapement, but they manufacture it themselves, and that's a bigger deal still.

[@watchartsci]

Hey sacundim, thanks for the added detail. Kindest regards, Bill

[@digggert]

thanks for the nice and thorough clarification. I also did not like the classification - especially of the epsilon - as "standard horology - putting it in a pot with mass market movements such as a 2824-2, when it's clearly to a very high extent in house designed and built movement.

[@milad.m2130]

its Weissgold, ß is double ss, and weiss mean white :)

[@watchartsci]

Thanks man! Eventually I'll get it! Cheers, Bill

[@ubersponge]

how can you not be wearing that fp journe!?

[@watchartsci]

I just put on my FP Journe Chronomètre à Résonance! Actually, that H. Moser et Cie is a honey of a watch to wear as is the Bovet and both Parmigianis and my VC 1921... I just need more wrists so that I could wear all of them all the time! Cheers Christopher! Bill

[@thmusic7214]

weib is pronounced like "vice"

[@watchartsci]

Thanks man! THmusic, I need all the help I can get. Kindest regards, Bill

[@SilouanWright]

Tangomat. Not Tagomat.

[@watchartsci]

Yes, Rey, Tangomat...whoops...🤭

[@armandojuan64]

Watch videos don't get better than yours . That simple .

[@watchartsci]

Hey Armando, thanks man! I appreciate it. Kindest regards, Bill

[@tattoofthesun]

Can’t say that I’m attracted to them. Just not for me

[@watchartsci]

Bauhaus isn't your cup of tea I take it Tattoo. Not for everyone. Take care, Bill

[@tattoofthesun]

@@watchartsci hey I love your channel, I’m getting into the oval shaped case Omega DeVilles, ever spend any time with those?

[@tattoofthesun]

@@watchartsci I do think that the general Bauhaus school is fascinating though and that there’s something to be learned there

[@williamroddy2755]

Lots of whiffs

[@watchartsci]

Oh no, William; not those blasted whiffs again! Rats! Now I'll have to clear them out again!! Take care, Bill

[@williamroddy2755]

WatchArtSci dont get me wrong, some good stuff, yet some blasted whiffs ;)

[@watchartsci]

Thanks, man! I know what you mean about the whiffs... Kindest regards, Bill

[@Michael-4]

Was tempted by one of the high horology pieces, then I realised they were 20k not 2k.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Michael, it's crazy isn't it? I've been looking at watches that are more expensive than my car! It's easy to loose perspective in High Horology watch collection! Kindest regards, Bill

[@JohnDoe-ub8fq]

Chrono24, has a few used for $11,000...

[@Tuneitupful]

Bill, an excellent video. I am looking to by a Nomos and thus has helped a great deal to under all the different movements.