a BETTER option than MILS plates for your LEGO City??

[@StonewallBricks]

How do you connect buildings and roads in your city?

[@tilewithgroove8324]

Before the new road plates came out, I had a great system using generic baseplates to elevate and connect modular buildings to roads with curbs. I still use it in some areas and it works with the new road plates as well. It's similar to your technique... I used the cheap generic baseplates lined up against the street baseplates, and placed the modulars over both, in a staggered fashion (still affixed to their original baseplates). Two stacked baseplates = 1/6 the height of one LEGO standard plate (itself, 1/3 of a brick). Therefore, you can secure the "raised" buildings to the generic baseplate at the rear and to the road baseplate at the front, using a few strategically placed 1x4/6/8/etc regular plates and cover those with tiles. This creates a level, smooth surface and adds a nice curb as well. I have it illustrated with pics in an Amazon review, but not sure it's appropriate to link that here.

[@StonewallBricks]

@@tilewithgroove8324 Yeah, that sounds like it would work too. You need those studs on the old road plates tho, I bet.

[@tilewithgroove8324]

@@StonewallBricks Indeed! Staggered 1-2 studs from the smooth road surface, depending on the look you're going for. That's where the curbs are made and join the sidewalk to the street. (Forgot to add, the generic baseplates do need to be cut to less than 32 studs to fit within the spaces without any overhang. Basically like your cardboard method.)

[@RCmies]

I use the old road plates put them next to the modulars, and I have a bunch of tiles to cover the studs on the sides of the road plates to extend the sidewalk. Looks excellent if you have a row of trees going in the middle of the sidewalk which is possible now thanks to the added space. Also gives you opportunity to introduce more studs to attach minifigures so they don't fall down. On the road plate, moving from curb towards the edge of the plate, I use light bluish grey 1x6 tiles on the curb, then two 2x2 dark grey tiles in 4x6 pattern, then another 1x6 light bluish grey tile and this repeated for the length of the sidewalk. I think it looks far better than only having light grey or dark grey. I don't think I'll ever switch to the new road plates, however I'm planning on buying them to build some ramps/bridges/freeways.

[@StonewallBricks]

@@RCmies Sounds like a good option if you have the space! I wish my city didn't have to be as cramped. Although, I think the new roads look more like lego and never really liked the old ones (even as a kid). But that's just my opinion.

[@BevinsBricksWorld]

In todays crazy economy, this is a good solution for small city builders for sure. I personally think if I was gonna go this way I would just do the offbrand plates to raise it. But it is a great way also to use all those unwanted amazon boxes :).

[@StonewallBricks]

Thanks! Yeah, the cardboard works good for the 16-wide modulars that are plate-based, that way I don't have to cut the off-brand plates in half. And like you said, there are always sooo many boxes, lol.

[@josephsalvucci7316]

But how does it hold up over time, cardboard has air pockets and will compact under the continuous weight of the LEGO, you’re going to have to replace them every few months the I’d think

[@stasisbricks4565]

I also use an extra plate level under my baseplates when using the new roads. For the buildings that are on plate (3 and 1s), I just put a base plate under those. It works out because I try to have everything at either on a 32x32 or a 16x32 size. But I use all lego brand plates and no cardboard.

[@StonewallBricks]

Sounds like that works too!

[@BackRoomBuilder]

This road system does look good for small cities but MILS is a lot less work to setup and repurpose at a convention. For large builds, I would use them over these roads.

[@StonewallBricks]

I can see how MILS would've been easier at a convention. But my method worked alright. Like you said, great for small layouts!

[@sarahmtrager]

I LOVE your Pink Panther art piece

[@StonewallBricks]

Thanks! Free instructions on Rebrickable if you have the Marilyn Monroe set.

[@Summer-Kid]

Dude, this is great. I have been thinking about remaking my roads and turning them from the old city road to the new city road, and this definitely helped.

[@StonewallBricks]

Glad I could help!

[@e443productions9]

thank you for this video lol. I feel like there are no LEGO youtubers that ever account for affordability. Ain't nobody got enough money to invest in MILS instead of buying more sets

[@StonewallBricks]

Sure thing! I totally agree. If I have any money for Lego, it's going towards sets, not MILS!

[@MerwinMusic]

If you are at all handy with wood. 1/2 inch plywood works pretty perfect to raise modular buildings up to Mils height. So you can make SNOT roads without wasting money under buildings.

[@StonewallBricks]

good to know! Anything that saves money on lego helps

[@sinan_collects]

Instead of cardboard, I think you can raise your Creator 3-1 & other mocs with an extra plate underneath each corner & center. That's how I'm doing right now in my city (I'm also using Strictly Brik plates under my modulars) and everything is lining up perfectly.

[@StonewallBricks]

You're right! HAHA, I can't believe I didn't think of that! I guess cardboard can still save on piece usage, lol.

[@theexplodedguys264]

MULTI-BILLION DOLLAR IDEA DUDE! lol

[@StonewallBricks]

lol, I just need to release my Stonewall Bricks branded cardboard!

[@knowgoodcomics]

Great video! I'm just starting to build my own city. Nice to hear some other options!

[@StonewallBricks]

thanks! Glad it was helpful!

[@kal6957]

Thanks so much. This video and the comment by Sinan B. really helped me out with my tiny town. As good as MILS and brick-built roads are they definitely aren't financially convenient for anyone but the hardcore enthusiast.

[@StonewallBricks]

Agreed. Glad I could help!

[@sinan_collects]

Happy to hear that KaL!

[@Money_Over_Honey]

He kinda looks like Shaggy from Scooby Doo with a beard

[@StonewallBricks]

zoinks!

[@NinjahNJH]

Hi dude can u tell me where did u buy the fake base plate?

[@StonewallBricks]

Amazon. They're called Strictly Briks baseplates.

[@johnathansawyer8736]

Awesome idea! Thank you!

[@StonewallBricks]

Glad you liked it!

[@curtisbocage7100]

Love your sense of humor 🤣, I think I will try it, good job👍.

[@StonewallBricks]

thanks! Hope it works out well!

[@BestNameCouldThinkOf]

An option for adding roads to modulars if you have the old road baseplates is to build the pavement bit of the modular on the studded part of the road plate and build the building part of the modular on the edge of it's baseplate. This also adds extra space behind the buildings for an alleyway.

[@StonewallBricks]

Does that connect the road baseplate to the modulars on either side? Seems like it might be hard to move it that way.

[@BestNameCouldThinkOf]

@@StonewallBricks the road baseplate would remain separate from the building baseplates as only the pavement from the modular would be on the road baseplate allowing them to be moved independently, with no physical connection between them

[@mrpocock]

I think those off-brand 32x32 plates have a few attachment points underneath, so you can secure them to the base plate beneath. I think it works out cheaper to use those off-brand 32x32, a base plate and minimal bricks to make a mils than to make one with a ton of lego 4x4 plates.

[@StonewallBricks]

yeah, they have a lot of attachments underneath. They're basically just a big plate.

[@bricknmotor]

Where you get that pink panther from? I need this! 😁

[@StonewallBricks]

Alt build of the Marylin Monroe art set. Free instructions on Rebrickable, if interested!

[@bricknmotor]

@@StonewallBricks oh ok. I'll have to check that out and see how many pieces I already have for it. Probably not enough pink tiles but I definitely have a few. 😁 Thanks bud!

[@thegreenbrick]

Just wanted to let you know that I found your calipers. On a side note, very entertaining video. 😂

[@StonewallBricks]

haha, thanks!

[@matchboxmickmoyboyz6988]

best thing I have found are the cheap stackable baseplates. Roughly equal to 2 tiles high, I then build on these and overlap onto the old type road plate studs by oneand place the original Lego plate under the back to even it up. I get a very nice kerb and gutter difference in hieght.

[@StonewallBricks]

Nice! I put my baseplated buildings right on top of those in my town to make my angled roads.

[@jahweh]

you got my sub for this. Just put my first modulair on my first MILS and i didnt like it AT ALL. Besides creating rivers (how ami going to simulate water in a river with lego anyways) and running light wires through them (i dont have any yet) i cant see any positives..

[@StonewallBricks]

Welcome! Yeah, not to mention how expensive MILS is. I'd rather spend the money on more sets/MOCs! What modular did you get?

[@jason.martin]

Great idea to keep the costs down !

[@StonewallBricks]

thanks, I thought so!

[@BassHopesAndDreams]

Where did u get the big base plates with the slots on the bottom so u cna put it on top of bricks

[@StonewallBricks]

Amazon! These were "Strictly Briks" but there are other brands too. They are usually listed as 10x10 inch stackable baseplates. Just make sure there are anti-studs on the bottoms in the pics because you'll probably get normal baseplates in your search results too.

[@TonyMontanaDS]

Why not used plates from Strictly Brisks?

[@StonewallBricks]

That's what I used.

[@aidenjk09]

This is a life saver Thx!!

[@StonewallBricks]

You're welcome!

[@PortalMasterStudios]

Love this, the exact same idea I have in my city, I just use foam boards!

[@StonewallBricks]

Nice! I didn't think of foam boards; they should look better from the side too.

[@DARTHBRIXLEGO]

I might have to try this. And also you're nearing 1k subs and it's really cool.

[@StonewallBricks]

Do it! And yeah, getting close! Thanks for watching!

[@RayRay_AUS]

Would you be concerned the cardboard sag/ be compressed over time?

[@StonewallBricks]

Hmm, I hadn't considered that. The oldest part of my city is nearing a year old; no problems yet, but probably too early to tell. If it gives me problems in the future, I'll probably just switch in out since cardboard is easy to find. My guess is that it should last awhile, tho (as long as it doesn't get wet).

[@nicomollet]

Thank you for this. I was thinking i would never do the MILS thing because of how much money you must throw just to elevate your city by 3mm. I want to keep my money to buy real Lego sets... 4:55 4:55 4:55

[@StonewallBricks]

Agreed!

[@tywallace2379]

or foam board?

[@DesertOwlForge]

Mils plates give the buildings a.stronger/less flexible base and also allows wires to be run under your builds. The cardboard system just not gonna do either of those.

[@StonewallBricks]

I haven't lit up my city yet. So for now, the price for MILS isn't worth it to me.

[@tomkroebel]

Wouldn't CAPS for "Cardboard And Plate System" be much more intuitive? And you can write it in CAPS... ;-)

[@StonewallBricks]

haha, you may have a point there!

[@JacquiRosenberg]

thanks so much for the invitation of PACKS🎉❤😊

[@debbiezipoli3768]

I was just trying to figure out a cheaper way to raise my buildings over the weekend without doing MILS because I picked up my very first and only (so far) one road set. I'm still working out the kinks, but placing the new roads on a baseplate and placing the modulars on plates then on top of two more layers of plates on the baseplate makes a realistic mini-figure scale step from building to sidewalk to road. I don't have a lot of 2-by bricks, so I am trying the layer of plates instead.

[@StonewallBricks]

I'm all for using the pieces you already have to save money! So are you putting the plates in between the modular buildings and their baseplates?

[@debbiezipoli3768]

@@StonewallBricks yes, and also the new roads, they go on the baseplate too. Cover the baseplate area that is not covered by a road with two layers of plates, then the modular goes on plates, like the City buildings, and you put that on the plate covered baseplate. Then tile accordingly

[@LutraLovegood]

Garage sales and what have you are pretty good for this, you can get lots of basic bricks and plates for dirt cheap. As you said, nobody is going to see it, so who cares if they're discolored, dirty, have cracks or are chipped?

[@StonewallBricks]

good idea!

[@lightsky8597]

I don't understand why everyone is so up and up when it comes to using non Lego with Lego I use mega bloks for my mils plates and nobody can tell the difference

[@StonewallBricks]

idk, 🤷‍♂️ Your approach sounds good to me!

[@Xaw13]

As for the non-LEGO: in my opinion it’s “illegal” when connecting to real LEGO pieces as the non-LEGO quality can be different and could damage the real LEGO pieces… So as your non-LEGO 32x32 plate is just used to lay the baseplate on top of it, it’s fine with me! 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@StonewallBricks]

Yeah, I'm basically just using them as a thicker layer of cardboard, lol!

[@MrJoeyWheeler]

I abjectly reject the modern road plates- I think they're ugly and unsuitable for most modelling purposes. I'id rather just use the traditional road baseplates instead. That said, in Bricklink Studio I instead use a MILS system with my own MILS roads made using plates.. They'd be expensive but hey, that's what off-brand bricks are for.

[@StonewallBricks]

I've never been a fan of the old road baseplates, but to each their own. And alternate-brand bricks are great for MILS; helps keep that cost down!

[@Nikioko]

Doesn't solve the problem that the roads are too narrow.

[@JAGORAMA]

I like your concept i use cardboard to level up the 32x32 baceplates but i still think mills is a cool concept

[@StonewallBricks]

Thanks. MILS works well, it's just expensive.

[@philmorton4590]

Nope, mils plates sound easier, plus the requirement to be able to move lego towers without simulating an earth quake! Afterall time is also a commodity, you don't want to have to rebuild everything from scratch.

[@StonewallBricks]

Mils is definitely stronger! This is just my cheaper option.

[@MISSBRICKS]

very cool, I use 4mm Crok under my Buildings 😉👍👍😀

[@StonewallBricks]

Nice! But did you measure it with calipers? ...

[@MISSBRICKS]

@@StonewallBricks Lol no. I don't have any

[@maxwell_0713_tfol]

The base plate is actually 1/2 a plate thick

[@StonewallBricks]

Your comment intrigued me, so I got out my calipers, lol. Plates are 0.125" and baseplates are 0.055" (excluding studs, of course). So baseplates are 44% the thickness of plates.

[@maxwell_0713_tfol]

@@StonewallBricks ok

[@nikolay_hranov7319]

You forgot to say it in astronomical units and parsecs 😂

[@StonewallBricks]

rookie mistake!

[@Bluemarblecomics]

⁠@@StonewallBricksor giga parsecs

[@titlego]

I use lego 65803

[@StonewallBricks]

that works! I bet they're more expensive tho

[@mikaelandpond9093]

Or just put Cina Plates at the bottom 😀

[@dancewithpianosteve]

If one can effort all those modulair buildingd and no milsplates?!?!😂

[@StonewallBricks]

Maybe I can afford all these modular buildings BECAUSE I didn't spend money on MILS plates 🤔

[@brickt1220]

Its a great idea, I use foam board that you can find at Walmart for 98 cents and they work the same

[@StonewallBricks]

good idea! The foam might look nicer on any exposed edges too.

[@kesho1516]

This system goes with MAN... Measure And kNife

[@StonewallBricks]

haven't heard of that, but it would work here!

[@kesho1516]

@@StonewallBricks PACs+MAN

[@Ebbybuddy]

No… just, no I don’t mind knock off bricks but the cardboard is no go

[@StonewallBricks]

To each their own 🤷‍♂️ I forget it's even under there because I can't see it.

[@robertsullivan3877]

It's a good idea, except in the southwest, the cardboard attracts cockroaches. Turn on the lights and the roaches have left their calling cards behind. Use caution!

[@StonewallBricks]

I hadn't heard that about roaches before. You could try what another commenter suggested by attaching strategically placed plates under the plate-based buildings.

[@gloweyegaming7887]

The best way in my opinion: Take a bunch of plates, and connect them not on top, but on the bottom, then on the back of the plate, extend it a little and raise it with 1 plate, then, add the modular with the plate on top. After that, connect the back part of the plate with the back part of the modular, and there you go. A method that is stable, cheap, and doesn’t need you to remove the tiles, and the entire bottom floor. It’s a perfect.

[@StonewallBricks]

I'm trying to picture this. Does this extend the footprint larger than the 32x32 baseplate?

[@FernandoRamirez-cw8ry]

Just feels like he’s trying to reinvent the wheel. Totally get MILs is expensive. Newsflash! LEGO is expensive! PACs sounds like a lot more work just to invent a new system that doesn’t work as good as the popular one already in place. I do ❤ the effort he put in this video. #MILs4Life

[@StonewallBricks]

Lol! Just sharing what I do personally. If I had unlimited funds, I'd consider MILS. Thanks for the video compliment!

[@TheRealFeechLaManna]

No..just no. Cardboard..no..no no no. And off-brand plates? NON MONSIEUR! If the map is not straight, the master will not sit! - Ancient Daoist saying.

[@StonewallBricks]

What about official Lego branded cardboard?

[@TheRealFeechLaManna]

@@StonewallBricks Ha! Okay you put me on the spot here! Hmmm actually I think I could accept that LMAO good one!

[@Mortalistost]

Blasphemous ! =)

[@StonewallBricks]

forgive me!

[@douglasticknor1823]

LEGO is a premium product. I am not going to use cardboard. Sorry.... but I don't even use cheap Chinese knockoff LEGO. I am not about to start using garbage.

[@StonewallBricks]

lol, k. Fyi: some of those "cheap Chinese knockoffs" are better quality than Lego these days

[@douglasticknor1823]

LOL. ok..... @@StonewallBricks

[@Summer-Kid]

​@@douglasticknor1823well he isn't wrong, but you can do what you want.

[@countchompula1896]

My dirty mind read MILS as something else.. 🫢

[@alpahetmk]

damn