A/C Lines and Brake Switch Done For The TDI Tacoma!

[@johncourtneyscott2757]

Its getting better and better

[@chadhipwell192]

A heat jacket for the turbo would work well to protect that AC line. Don't forget that the Tacoma ECU would control the condenser fan when the AC is running. The VW ECU would do the same. Integration would be testing but hey, you are the man that can. The VW also has a separate PWM controlled condenser fan to the rad fan, but you'll already know this. Kudos on the quality of the content. Your level of thought and engineering is 2nd to none. Superb.

[@808touge]

As said I would definitely run a turbo blanket

[@MussaKZN]

Hot side Turbo heat boot or blanket ! Nice job on the AC lines!!

[@daytongarcia2866]

Heat wrap exhaust and a turbo blanket

[@andrewzetina5412]

I'm doing this same conversion with a PD130 and EDC15 stage 1 tune 170hp

[@JoshD10]

Looks like you need a turbo blanket. That should help as well.

[@kennybaughman5032]

You might want to try a turbo blanket

[@tommysantos1658]

I used to just jump across the ac relay. While charging it to let it take freon.

[@Andreveien]

steel is better sheeld than aluminium

[@jadeanderson9651]

You've been putting out some awesome content lately dude, much love for the toyota builds. Keep it up brother

[@austinniemela]

Thanks man!!

[@mrjibrox]

Maybe a turbo Jacket …Should help

[@gregh7457]

land cruiser 80 series ac lines go close to the exhaust and toyota put an aluminum clamshell type of cover on the pipe and hold it at each end with a clamp

[@dandorris8531]

Check summit racing. DEI make great heat wrap that will go right over that tube. Pre made lengths. It's called Trinary switch monitors both sides a/c system charge it. Ecu provides power to pump I believe after it sees the switch grounded via the pressures.

[@austinniemela]

I’ll check it out!! Thanks!

[@dandorris8531]

@@austinniemela stuff made for extreme heat

[@austinniemela]

@@dandorris8531 👍 the ecu provides a ground the the ac ecu?

[@dandorris8531]

Sorry I missed typed was in a hurry at the doctors office with my son when I commented on the a/c. ECU usually provides grounds. That dual switch turns off a/c pump when Freon is low and and won’t close the switch. If head pressure gets to high it will open the switch How many wires go to compressor? Try ohming out the wires from that high/low switch to the wires feeding the compressor. You should have continuity in one of those wires. I’m willing to bet that dual switch is the key to activating the pump.

[@austinniemela]

@@dandorris8531 it has one wire to the compressor factory. That wire is untouched.

[@Wafflebrah21]

Heat shield over that back housing on the turbo and downpipe. That'll make difference 👌🏼

[@MrSkinny602]

VW AC runs off of a solenoid. The compressor is always running. Other manufactures use the High/low switch to engage the clutch on the compressor. I'm not sure if they use a high/low switch as well. Im sure they do but not 100% on how it works. Maybe the green wire could be used as a trigger and the vw ecu would send a signal to the compressor solenoid to turn on and off based off the info from the high/low switch.

[@rcsanks]

Over top of the heat tape put Reflective sleeve. They are loose fitting so you'll have to zip tie it top and bottom but it keeps it cool. Or you can get a turbo blanket, they work Awsome

[@FrmerK20]

the turbo would need to be designed with a blanked in mind I think, but a heat shield should be good

[@larrybrownlee9255]

If you build a heat shield I think you should use steel not aluminum because the steel won't transfer the heat as much as the aluminum will. If you heat aluminum in one spot it will be hot several inches away from the heat sore. Do the same thing with tin and it will be a lot cooler. Or just extend the hose. You can cut the crimp band off and use hose clamps. We used hose clamps on aftermarket AC all the time.

[@CarlosRivera-bg5nh]

The goat with the Tacoma 💯💯💯💯

[@Tfr2135]

If you can't go up, bend that line down and underneath the turbo. This is quiet close...

[@peterhasendonckx6314]

According to your CAN issue: The CAN system is a closed loop with on both ends a termination resistor of 120 ohms. Since you have been cutting in your wiring cluster, you probably have cut away 1 or both resistors. You can check this by measuring the resistance between CAN HI and CAN LO (power off!!!). It should read about 55 to 65 ohms. (2 times 120 ohms parallel). If it reads 120 ohms, 1 termination resistor is gone. If it's open, both are. You can also check the voltages. CAN HI to ground should read 2.7 to 3 volts, CAN LO to ground 1.5 to 2 volts. CAN HI to CAN LO 1 volt. These voltages may vary according the ammount of data send at the moment. A digital mulitmeter is rather slow and gives an average value. If you have CAN wiring which is no longer in use, remove it. Lose wires act as antenna's and pick up a lot of noise and put it on the CAN signal, which results in a bad or no signal. I hope this helps. Greetings from Belgium. Keep up the good work!!

[@austinniemela]

Thanks for that!! My can wires come straight from the vw ecu to the can2dash! That’s all I have running on the can bus wires

[@peterhasendonckx6314]

@@austinniemela maybe it helps to put a resistor between CAN HI and CAN LO at your CAN to dash convertor. It can't Hurt trying.😇

[@edwardhrvoich1786]

This explains the can bus and terminating resistors : kzbin.info/www/bejne/q53GfKGohdJ9p68

[@tradeMark182]

Lets go my guy 💯

[@Globbs]

Oh dude these are the very questions I had. I had seen kits that let you mount up newer jeep AC condenser but in my opinion it seemed like getting the VW one to communicate with my jeep was possible. I recently received a Jeep XJ out of the blue that I need to do extensive work to and I've narrowed it down to a TDI ALH engine. With gas prices and all the other economic stuff going on, it just seems like a no brainer if I plan to actually use this thing regularly. I haven't started my build yet, still just doing as much research as I can before hand. Looking forward to seeing how you solve this.

[@smplyizzy]

Looking good. Looks like you need to get it aligned.

[@austinniemela]

I do! Thanks

[@smplyizzy]

@@austinniemela just a thought. It might be interesting to take it for an alignment and see how the shop deals with a lifted truck. Do go have provide specs, etc.

[@linotorres1172]

muy bueno pero please subtitule español

[@berndtnording4856]

With your welding skills you should be able to splice in some more hard line into the AC line at the compressor end to get the rubber line up high and away from the turbo. On the other hand, who needs AC in Washington?

[@johnnycashh7148]

Curious where you learned all your skillsets? School or self taught? Not many younger guys at your level of knowledge. Good shit bro. 🍻

[@austinniemela]

Self taught! I just dive in till I figure it out! Thanks!!

[@عبداللهسالمين-و1و]

👍👍👍👍

[@craigwooldridge3901]

Did you do away with the MAF sensor?

[@alexei9216]

Pretty nice video as always Austin, watching always from Argentina man

[@madcratebuilder]

Build a aluminum heat shield and bolt to turbo, should help a lot.

[@borz3790]

👍

[@richarddaye3757]

get a turbo heat blanket

[@xcracer311]

Wrap your turbo with that turbo warp might keep your hood temps down too

[@hydroman99]

The turbo is too sexy to cover up. Maybe it would be too much work or even impossible, but I wonder if you could cut that into AC line and splice additional hose via crimp-on fittings. This could achieve that higher run above the wheel well. Disclaimer: I know almost nothing about AC.

[@abid_khan87]

How about passing the AC line from down side bypassing the turbo?

[@bigmackstruckstop9213]

Probably exhaust wrap,your general knowledge and tools is something I don't have,that's why I enjoy your channel, catch ya on the next one.

[@binhamda]

Try extend AC pipe to be avoiding turbo heat

[@matthewlee2686]

Put a fiberglass heat blanket on your turbo

[@hotmalevb]

Could you 90 the line right off of the firewall connection? Do you have enough length to go down and then forward?

[@jordanhendrickson1484]

Only thing other then a heat shield would be exhaust wrap. It’s a fibre material you wet it wrap it and let it dry… I’m not sure about the ac switch but I have seen switches as more of a potential difference kinda switch. One tells you if it’s too low (high pressure) and the other tells you if you’re above the low pressure signal. There kinda backwards some times on how you think. I’m not to sure if it’s the same on vehicles of not. Just a suggestion might help.

[@draganborovnica]

Different angle more to the hood of that pipe, and if necessary make it longer should be good enough solution to avoid turbo heat.

[@walterphillips9950]

Was that truck in a wreck? The steering wheel looks warped

[@motorhead-kf3nc]

it has high caster upper control arms for a future lift, he'll probably have it aligned when the build is complete just like the last green toyota

[@DENO4X4]

Love the content Honestly keep it up 👍🏻 But i must say/suggest, pleas stop putting VW engines in perfectly good Toyota’s Keep Toyota original and phat as they are But honestly keep up the helpful and great custom work and content

[@lawrencejames1856]

Wouldnt it be easier to do a 1kz swap? Just curious

[@ItsJoshN]

i think those are extremely hard to find/source

[@arm2644]

Why don't you fabricate a heatshield for the turbo to avoid burning that A/C line

[@Shivappa0]

Brother how to cantact with you.