A Clean Burn High Efficiency Barrel Stove Secondary Burn and Exterior Air Intake. Best Barrel Stove

[@dogdazetravellergarrett1367]

Nice video, explanation step by step. Thanks 😎👍👍

[@PainterD54]

I made one of those a couple weeks ago and it does actually burn much cleaner. The pipe with the holes actually burns the smoke and looks like a gas burner. There is no smoke coming out the chimney now.

[@kevindouglas8768]

I can't weld pretty stuff either. That's why I'm making my new wood stove out of oak. One more layer of clear coat and I'll try it out soon. .. I was going to test it outside, but it's so pretty, I think I'll put it right in the house. Thanks for the tips.

[@OGGarrettsGarage]

Hopefully you'll get at least 1 good pizza out of it.

[@victoryfirst2878]

I am wondering what is the size of your flu exhaust pipe ?? Just imagine if you would get fire bricks that are was denser than the holie cheese ones you are using, then placing and cementing them in place all around the barrel. That would really make for a killer efficient wood stove. I like your thinking and working methods you used Garrett. I was able to get a catalytic converter from an old science laboratory that closed down. The diameter is 14 inches by 4 inches thick. I will be trying to put in place this item right before the flu pipe exit. This should give my stove the extra bit of efficiency The outside air is what really make the wood stove the star of the fire show. Am doing that right now Garrett. Will be taking air right from the attic through one of the HVAC ceiling vents. Then when the season is over, I will convert the vent to normal function. I look forward to see what else you do with your ideas in the future. Good luck and peace too. vf.

[@OGGarrettsGarage]

It's a 6" chimney. I'm enjoying it right now. Keeps the shop warm and looks cool. The porous bricks seem to fill with ash in short order so the morter is self supplying. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@victoryfirst2878]

Look forward to see more great video Sir. Peace vf@@OGGarrettsGarage

[@paulschaefer5241]

I like the idea of the bricks. I believe though that when you described how they are to work the word you are looking for is heat sink. they make a good heat sink because they have a high thermal mass but like most things with a high thermal mass they take almost as long to get hot as to cool down afterward. also when you welded the sheet metal plate to the roof it would have been better to weld the middle and allow the corners to be free. as the metal expnads and contracts with the change in temerpature, this would allow the corners to move.

[@OGGarrettsGarage]

I've always thought of a heat sink as a device used to actively cool something, that's why I referred to the bricks as a heat battery or heat shock absorber. It's kind of the same idea but the end result is a little different. Give it some thermal mass and it swings slower. With a heat sink, it's all about radiation of that heat to keep the host cooler. I think.. Thanks for commenting!

[@doneown503]

2:43 - if I am not mistaken , your also building a BAFFLE plate , to re-direct flue gasses?? 4:33 - 32 holes! , that's ambitious! , but let's see!! 7:03 - ur brick work is real nice!👍 8:27 - HEY!! , ok ! - that's NOT a tree!!

[@joaomrtins]

I think the smoke outlet should br only at the back. The logic is: your inteke air is in the front, it will tend to rise up and acape to the chamney. If you force the smoke to scape through the rear you make the unburt wood gas enter in contact with your secundairy air that is coming from roles all the way to the back. This modification should be easy just needing to close the front gap btween your metal sheet and the barrel. With over a year of experience you shoud be able to tell if what i say makes sense.

[@ronethridge9875]

a fine idea/thanks much

[@springerranch3178]

So now that it's been a couple months, do you have a video to show the finished product and how it works?

[@OGGarrettsGarage]

I do. I just haven't finished the video yet, almost done. Spoiler: It works great but uses a LOT of wood. I'll probably not post the wood stove video until after another mercedes r230 video. Soon! Thanks for asking!

[@eduardvissarion]

you do not need to add the plate. move the chimney to the front side.

[@healingbrain]

smart!

[@davidcorman5788]

A layer of sand under the bricks makes the stove safer.

[@OGGarrettsGarage]

I found that after several uses, ash kind of fills everywhere like mortar. Makes a nice insulating layer. Thanks for commenting.

[@im1469]

You might find that the secondary burn area is ineffective the way you have it planned out. Generally secondary combustion air needs to be preheated more so than primary combustion air, your design happens to have it just a little bit backwards. Lol! But who knows, it may work just how you have it, I can’t say as I’m not a solid fuel combustion engineer. Keep us posted, I’m genuinely curious.

[@OGGarrettsGarage]

It seems to be working as expected but I need to install some sort of sight glass so I can see inside with the door closed. It certainly looks like secondary burn is happening for a moment when I open the door. This last cold snap I was able to keep the workshop in the low sixties while it dropped to single digits outside. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@kevincorcoran1264]

I was going to ask if you have a way to know for sure if secondary burn is happening without a window. I like this mod a lot, I have one of these in my sauna that was installed by the previous owner. It’s ridiculous how much heat goes up the chimney so I’m looking for ideas to add a baffle. I like your ingenuity, cheers!

[@jonathanbuford1793]

Doing the same and tightly wiring metal fence post along the outside of the barrel and a couple of fans on medium speed rotating the air and wondering about an old cast iron radiator and if I can heat enough water for ibc poor man’s hot tub with the lower wrapped in copper with patient and precise bends I think I’m on the right track and if I keep it stoked for 2-3 hours I believe or hope I will be close to achieving but I do realize I don’t need to experiment personally with the. Radiator as that could be bad with too much pressure ahhh research research research I know when I had oil going my first year I could take my spray foamed shop from 55 to 95 f in about an hour really weird go in bundled walk out in boots shirt and undies soaked from all the sweat and I was losing most of my heat right up the flew pipe i had 2 of the heat powers fans on top barrel and about 10 inches up bottom of flew and that was minimal but collectively I believe is the key- great video I’m with you I might as 2 more fresh air in take on the sides cut offs everywhere plumbing for air or water as running pipes under my planters in next room greenhouse was as well on my mind as I have lots of irons in the fire

[@CrazyOneToo]

The giving tree!?!?! I think that is panel bond on the cars roof. Some cars are completely held together with it. I'm talking bout you Mclaren. I thought this was going to be a simple project. Did you piss off the Mrs? Seems you are making a home out there. A lot of garages keep a sink and the washer and dryer out there. When does the toilet go in? Actually that's not a bad idea for a garage. LoL

[@OGGarrettsGarage]

Just wait... the giving tree is giving it up hard in the next several days. Piss off the Mrs? Naw. She's pretty hard to piss off. .. but I don't try! A toilet would be a grand addition. Also, a mezzanine..and awnings. It's a great place to be retired and have ideas and resources.

[@CrazyOneToo]

@@OGGarrettsGarage Yeah sounds great!

[@steveleonard3262]

I hadda stove with no ashpan , not good! Never own another one!

[@kennethpatierno6223]

Sorry instead of doing so the modafacation just get a woodstove

[@ronv6637]

Price a woodstove lately? I can get new single use barrels free and the rest of the parts are very low cost and reusable. First accessory should be a carbon monoxide detector. Second a good fire proof wall to prevent wall combustion, cement board may work well. Next would be a heat powered fan to circulate heat.

[@mihailmorozov3456]

The barrel is a bad material for a stove - it will burn to holes wery fast, the metal is too thin and bad quality. The barrel is made only to sell liquid in it and then rust to dust )

[@OGGarrettsGarage]

The barrel I used is quite a bit thicker than a standard barrel. The barrel dealer has a variety for different uses. If you use the correct barrel, it should provide many years of service without a problem.

[@exposingthetruth3821]

My barrel has been burning 6 months a year since 1996. Just a regular barrel with a proper ash bed.

[@jimschaffroth5652]

They'll last forever if you do it right. Disconnect the stove pipe at the end of the season clean it out and spray used motor oil all over the inside. It burns off next season.

[@rudygeorgiamulesandcountry1594]

I think that you'd have been further ahead to simply install the top drum kit overhead than to screw around with all that unproven theoretical second burn circus that you have going on in your head !

[@OGGarrettsGarage]

Secondary burn, also known as secondary combustion, has been proven to help improve the heat output from burning wood, and helps wood burning stoves to achieve much higher efficiencies than traditional wood burning fireplaces. It also provides other benefits such as helping to prevent blackening of the glass on stove doors and it reduces emissions from burning wood. Secondary burn plays a key role in making stoves as efficient as possible. It's science.

[@joemendyk9994]

Top drum kit doesn't serve the same purpose as secondary burn kit.