A clever table saw push-block idea for cutting thin strips

It's safe, easy and cheap to make- Can't beat that!
When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us►
Fisch Forstner Bits: amzn.to/2tvzbJg
Fisch Drill Bits: amzn.to/2BHJLl4
(We get a small commission if you use the affiliate links above.)
Subscribe (free) to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal e-Magazine► www.stumpynubs....
Follow us on social media►
Instagram: / stumpynubs
Twitter: / stumpynubs
Facebook: / stumpy-nubs-woodworkin...

[@xanderlutz7856]

I like that over the fence push block.. that makes the most sense

[@5zwoodworks]

I can't remember all your names but watching you and guys/gals like you help newbies, intermediates, etc. Is a real blessing. You help us save money, time and force us out of our comfort zones in order to progress into a good woodworker. Thank you

[@tommycat904]

thats a great push block

[@BarkingBeavers]

Thank you for your videos. You're one of my favorite instructors on KZbin. As a newbie, I credit your videos for keeping me safer in my shop (e.g. your angle grinder video)!

[@2logj]

Yes something to replace the costly Griper with a home made one will be welcome.Steve Ramsay has a few variations.

[@freewoodencrosses]

I do a lot of thin strip cutting on table saw, and I am going to make your design, Thanks

[@freewoodencrosses]

I made the saddle and found that my strips are mostly longer than the distance to the front of the saw table. So I am back to using the thin push stick but next I will try the fat push block and let it get chewed up and replace it. Thanks for your ideas...

[@gregsmith1719]

Thanks!

[@AandCequalsMe]

Learned about thin strips the hard way. Won't be doing that again. Thanks for the tips

[@NianticRiverWoodcraftingChrisN]

Shopsmith has been making a thin strip push block for years. It’s adjustable and fits my Sawstop fence!

[@Bogie3855]

Just received a set of the Fisch bits. My old set of Freud went to the newbie woodworker next door. Thanks for the tips. There is always something to learn.

[@jakematic]

That’s a DAMN clever idea James, thank you. I will NEVER risk trapping against the fence, and the blade guard.... what’s that Before the turds pile on, I’m old with all my fingers and worked in an open blade shop for decades before the safety nannies

[@StumpyNubs]

The day I start calling people who speak about safety "nannies" and "turds" is the day I re-evaluate just how overconfident I have become... kzbin.info/www/bejne/nWiygmR-nNSDnNU

[@malcolmrandolph4090]

I bought the full set of Fisch Forstner bits, and man am I glad I got them! Perfect! Highly recommended!

[@bobvogel5398]

Watched the video, made the push block, now here's your upvote. :-) Good idea.

[@1averageamerican]

Watched the video and had one made about 10 minutes later. One of those ideas thats so simple and useful it almost silly not to make one.

[@carlrugen5118]

Hey im a total newbie to woodwork as recently retired some great simple tips many thanks.

[@azmike1956]

I like your idea of using the rip fence to guide the push fixture. I use a Craftsman Exact-I-Rip fence which is an extrusion & so straight. It's on a Contractors Series before they went to Taiwan for the supplier. Basically all built by Emerson Electric. Just a beautiful piece of equipment! I've configured it to cut 45" to the right with a built in router table. To the left is a sliding carriage. The Exact-I-Rip fence can be made to do so many functions that the only limits are your imagination.

[@larryfisher7056]

This tool has been supplied with Shopsmith saws for decades.....it works great.

[@JoelMMcKinney]

...helping woodworkers think outside the box

[@timcooper4699]

The Grrriper is grrreat...but novel to this idea is straddling the fence! A marvelous idea!

[@StumpyNubs]

I have a Gripper. I have no complaints, other than it can't be used with the blade guard in place. But I suppose that's sort of the point- it's a solution for folks who don't have or won't use blade guards.

[@markforrestsm]

Great tip.. Will make one, with the saw side height adjustable to accommodate different thickness boards..

[@mikecurtin9831]

Why not make the one on the other side of the fence adjustable? It's not as stiff, but it would be square so all the force would be down, and it would allow for cutting thinner strips.

[@mikecurtin9831]

And you could make the off side one thicker to eliminate the chance of collapse.

[@theeddorian]

Another advantage of the thick-stock push blocks is that they reach well forward and hold the piece down to the table. Another is that there's always scrap around. All my push blocks are cut from scrap on my band saw.

[@judymahanna4227]

Thank you , Best of LUCK & PROSPER w NEW Shop/Studio ,JIMM

[@steveluepke9654]

Just bought a cabinet saw from Grizzly so that is a great idea .I'm going to make one that fits over the fence. I build bee hives to sell and there are a lot of thin pieces. Watch all your videos. Thanks

[@JoeCarron]

I also build bee-hives on occasion, mostly kenyan top bar style, with hinged roofs. The most difficult part was coming up with a safe jig for the beveled top bars. Still working that out.

[@herbsu4330]

I have heard of, and made, bee houses for mason bees. Is that different from what you make?

[@davet4051]

Thanks for the tip, I'm gonna put that one on the short list of projects for the shop.

[@aarondsalberg]

Smart, always. Thank you.

[@jasondoust4935]

What a great idea, James! Thank you. A slightly modified version will grace our college's panel saw in another hemisphere very soon! :-)

[@SOLT_Mark]

I've been using option 2 for over 40 years safely for all my cuts with no problem at all. Sometimes simple is best.

[@markhaas8938]

The fence straddler is a wonderful idea. Shopsmith has included one just for that purpose since the mid-80s.

[@frosiaburlakova7732]

I have a set of Fisher forstner bits, love them!

[@mikeeileenstone833]

Very informative! Thank you. Mike

[@sharit7970]

Genius! Thanks for posting!

[@ellisreeves8936]

That push saddle is very similar to one that comes with a ShopSmith as part of their safety equipment. They are the only manufacturer I know of that provides one for their saw. Very handy.

[@hassanal-mosawi6049]

Thanks, well said!

[@0thers1d3]

Because of you, I bought some Fisch bits. I make solid wood arcade sticks and hollow them out with my Fisch bits. I drill A LOT of holes in a lot of hard wood. I beat the crap out of them, give them a zap with my diamond files with the techniques I learned from you and then I put them back to work. These bits are FANTASTIC. I want to tag them on Instagram so I can show them off, but I don't believe they're on Instagram.

[@thomasclemens1386]

Thanks! I really like the skinny push block over the fence idea. I’m going to build it. I like your content

[@olddawgdreaming5715]

Good information James, thanks for sharing. Fred.

[@dpbjlee83]

Looks like I have a new push stick to make. Thanks

[@johnrice6793]

Ahh! A Shopsmith push block revisited!

[@danasmith8950]

Exactly. And the SS version is adjustable. I don't use a push stick cause it isn't as controlled as using the SS straddler.

[@markpalmer3071]

That's an excellent idea

[@stevenrayhoward]

Hmmm... never without a challenge! I still have all my fingers but two of thumb just don't feel things right because they got "sliced" up - yup, me being stupid by not keeping my eye on the ball (a blade guard would not have helped because, in both instances, the cut I was making could not be done with the blade guard in place). BUT, I digress.. I have installed the Incra TS/LS fence, therefore, any type of jig that straddles the fence is just not going to work. I also own several MicroJig GRRRippers - I use them all the time. But, making thin strips thinner then an eight of an inch chews up the GRRRippper's gripping rubber pads... so, for me, the nice, chunky, bulky (rather large, actually) push block is just the "berries" for me! So simple, if I had only thought of this superb solution for my situation sooner, I might still have all ten fingers able to touch and feel things like normal! Thanks James! Always learning... it's a great thing! Thanks so much.

[@criswilson1140]

Great idea, will be making one tomorrow.

[@ramaroodle]

Ooh! Handy tip! Thanks.

[@boltup5566]

Great tip. I try to follow the left side of the blade rule but it doesn't work when my off piece gets thin as well.

[@kennethsouthard6042]

I bought something like this from Sears about 10 years ago. It not only rides the fence but it's easily adjustable adjustable For times when you may have a sacrificial fence and the handle is at about a 45ﾟ angle. It also has an adjustable stock holder as well.

[@dalanbronnenberg]

Making one today!

[@designer-garb572]

I did not know it was better to cut thin strips on the left-hand side of your stock. When it comes to my table saw I don't like to take any risks, great advice as always

[@Beakerbite]

In general, it's best not to let anything pinch between the blade and the fence because that'll kickback. Thin strips are hard to manage and can rotate about their axis to jam. Worst they can do if you cut on the opposite side of the fence is fall off the table.

[@designer-garb572]

@@Beakerbite Appreciate your reply

[@eamonnmcgreevy6665]

@@Beakerbite So why do people cut (repeatable) thin strips on the right side of the blade? Is it because they don't need to move the fence after each cut, as when cutting thin strips on the left of the blade?

[@steveeckel6865]

Even better - try GRR-Ripper. Versatile tool and even has a 1/8” side one could use against the fence for thin strips.

[@StumpyNubs]

I have one. I have no complaints, other than it can't be used with the blade guard in place. But I suppose that's sort of the point- it's a solution for folks who don't have or won't use blade guards.

[@michaeltouchette8156]

@@StumpyNubs blade guards are for amateurs...... but seriously they're more pain then good. haven't used and pull them all off all table saws I've ever owned. and still have all my fingers

[@StumpyNubs]

Just because you have all your fingers today doesn't mean you will in a week. Every 9-fingered woodworker I know had decades of experience and never thought it would happen to them.

[@custos3249]

@@michaeltouchette8156 it's almost as if the concept of survivor bias were a thing. Stay in school, kids.

[@bradmeacham6982]

@@StumpyNubs But... The GRR-Ripper IS the blade guard. It also maintains full control of both sides of the cut all the way past the blade. I always use my GRR-Rippers (yes, plural) for all rip cuts.

[@Beverlys-Hillbilly]

Well, that is just a neat idea!

[@danasmith8950]

A "straddler" comes as standard safety equipment with Shopsmith. I default to the straddler whenever the clearance between the blade and the fence gets small. The SS version has the advantage that the height is adjustable. That way, the top of the straddler stays firmly on top of the fence and the "pusher" part stays firmly on top of the wood. (I imagine your homemade version could easily be modified to be adjustable). A straddler is much better than a push stick because it will never touch the blade and as you point out, it allows you to keep the blade guard in place. Another advantage of a straddler is that it extends forward and keeps the wood firmly against the table. LIfting can be a problem with thin strips.

[@wendylaca1783]

Great idea

[@chrism1106]

I like that, great idea

[@XxStupendousManxX]

Stumpy Nubs, at 1:03 I’m seeing the block in use and it looks like it’s tipping to the right (from operator perspective)? Doesn’t that then apply leftward pressure on the wood and force it into the blade?

[@contessa.adella]

James says, Fisch for Forstner bits….I agree whole heartedly. Expensive, but beautifully machined tool bling. A set of just five mid range sizes is gonna hit you for 80 Quid (90 ish USD)…but they are sharp and precise. For hobbyist use they’ll probably last a lifetime without sharpening. I want to wear mine on a necklace, well if it wasn’t dangerous, but they are just that exquisite as machined tools go. Amazon wanted 118 for the set in a ply box…or 80 for the same sizes in a blister pack (still all Fisch). Then reduced the boxed set to 79 after I returned it…..SCAMAZON more like huh! Anyhow, yes, Fisch Wave Cutter Forstners….bite tye bullet, invest once, and be glad you did for years to come (I’m a hobbyist with no Fisch connection).

[@smokering100]

When using the straddle type would you also need stock the same thickness as the stock you are ripping on the opposite side of the fence? Otherwise the push block would not be parallel to the table top, especially when ripping thicker stock.

[@skippylippy547]

Love this idea! Thank you. :)

[@michaelreed9652]

Great information

[@roBLINDhood]

Great tip!!

[@darinnetherland3466]

The gripper push blocks are also good for this with their thin cut attachments. Of course using scrap for free is much better than pricey off the shelf push blocks, but they’re very versatile and quite nice to use if you have a very small shop area with little room for multiple blocks, jigs, etc, or just want to spend more time making finished projects instead of shop tools. Either way is good. Most important is just being safe.

[@StumpyNubs]

I have a Gripper. I have no complaints, other than it can't be used with the blade guard in place. But I suppose that's sort of the point- it's a solution for folks who don't have or won't use blade guards.

[@johnrice6793]

Yes sir - right on. Good point. It’s all about saving fingers and hands.

[@Patricksworkshop]

i made this in a video 5 years ago and it works great for thin strips

[@shahbazkh2885]

Very good ⚘☺

[@Dr_Xyzt]

Wow. I'm sticking with option 1. I never have been able to confidently cut thin pieces close to the fence. I don't go thinner than 2".

[@5055hunter]

Great idea, but won't work with the Incra fence system unfortunately.

[@skipanardoross6805]

As much as I'd like to think that I would have figured out the saddle method, I really don't know. I had that idea in mind today but my mind only focused on straddling the blade. Seems so obvious now, I feel foolish. Fortunately I was by myself so no one else knows about it. 😏

[@rogerlyke85]

I have the gripper. Not real happy with it on thin repeat cuts. I like your jig idea. I will have to make one.

[@StumpyNubs]

I have one too. I have no complaints, other than it can't be used with the blade guard in place. But I suppose that's sort of the point- it's a solution for folks who don't have or won't use blade guards.

[@brimtlgtr]

Wait... tell me more about the first method you say that we won't use, that is, using the featherboard as a stop and moving the fence. That seems like a much safer approach to cutting thin strips than against the fence. Video, please - I'd much rather be safe than fingerless.

[@bassrun101]

Garry not Linda. That is exactly what he said, using a stop block and moving the fence blah, blah, blah. He also said that he is a realist, that many people won't do it. I've done it myself. I only need this one shim so I'll just quickly buzz it off and be done. Cue the kickback video. That's when those oop's happen. In a hurry, need it quick, late in the day, you've heard all the excuses. Even the legendary Sam Maloof nearly cut off a finger when he made a quick last cut on the bandsaw before shutting down for the day. What James would say is if there is a safer way to get the job done, do it.

[@StumpyNubs]

There's not much more too it that what's in this video. I rip a strip from the board, then I move the fence until the board touches the back of the featherboard, and rip another strip. Repeat. The featherboard's back (which doesn't flex like the fingers) is like a stop block, helping me reposition the fence to make identical cuts as the board gets narrower. We have shown in in previous videos as well.

[@joecarter9336]

Thanks, James. Any progress on the Cool 'Drool' Tools video?

[@xoxo2008oxox]

Why fence manufacturers don't think about this?? This should be a feature. Right? Plus they should incorporate UHMW as sides as well as blade guards...

[@davidpetruzzi4173]

What’s a blade guard?

[@ralphlivingston894]

Great suggestions… I hope I follow them?

[@tomtimmons2228]

Actually you’re wrong. Lol I always use the safe method rather than sneaking a small piece between my fence and the blade. I’ll bet my ten fingers that it’s the best way. Bye the way. Thank you for all you have taught me. I love your tutorials.

[@freedomisntfree131]

It sure is nice being able to watch something that doesn't include all of the crappy news right now.

[@loueubank4399]

Great idea! Question, why cut the bottom of the plywood that goes on the back of the fence? Wouldn't leaving it uncut make it more stable? Thanks!

[@JusBidniss]

Just my guess, but you won't always be cutting strips from the same thickness of material, and if this fixed design were meant for the back-side piece to ride along the table top for stability, it would be limited to one thickness of stock. You'd have to make one side or the other vertically adjustable some way, so the side pushing the stock could accommodate different thicknesses, which is getting into a more complex build. The width of it matching the fence thickness, plus the side that pushes the stock resting on it, should be sufficient for stability. So then, what of the back-side piece, other than as a fence gripper, but why notch its bottom edge? For those situations where the pusher is not riding the fence, but just used as a regular push block on top of the stock. Also for times when the woodworker may choose to put the fence on the other side of the blade.

[@StumpyNubs]

The edge of the plywood does not rest on the table. The thickness of the work piece lifts it up. You could make it adjustable with some slots so the plywood on the back side of the fence could move up and down to compensate for the thickness of the work piece, but I find that any push block that has to be adjusted for a cut doesn't get used (like the adjustable leg on the Gripper). Because the jig fits well on the fence it does not tip down on the back side, even though that plywood is not supported. .... Now, to specifically answer your question- I cut a notch on both because I figured I may want to swap them some day when the one on the cutting side of the fence eventually gets chewed up.

[@lint2023]

@@StumpyNubs And you can put a piece of stock on the back side that matches what you are cutting thereby always having both side supported the same no matter what thickness you are cutting. I like that pushblock and the sacrificial pushblock.

[@loueubank4399]

@@StumpyNubs Thanks for the explanation! You always think things through so I knew there was a reason!

[@bluesman285a]

Stumpy when you going to start doing longer project videos again?

[@Oldiesyoungies]

Ain'Tcha GonNa bUIld nOTHin?

[@theshake5378]

The promotional marketing is longer than the quick tips ...

[@StumpyNubs]

So you wanted me to ramble on more instead of being efficient and to the point? Because nobody forces you to watch the 15-second ad at the end, so it shouldn't matter how long it is.

[@Uncle_Buzz]

NOT brought to you by microjig.

[@mickwhatley]

Good day mate is it safe to cut thin plywood on a table saw?

[@StumpyNubs]

Yes, but you may have to raise the blade high so the teeth will cut downward into the sheet, pushing it down onto the top of the saw. For that reason it's important to have a blade guard in place. TO avoid chip-out, use a zero-clearance insert.

[@kamododemon]

*help* Over the last 12mo, while recovering from a work injury, I've watched almost your entire video library. - Including "The Cold Ones". In a past video, you breifly mentioned Your hand Tremors. Going on to tell us not to worry, Naming it, and that it is a hereditary condition. I believe my family and I also suffer from it.(Gran, Aunt, Dad, Sister) I've tremored since Highschool, noticing it progressing with age(32). While my Father(50s) can no longer cut his steak, and Gran(70s) struggles with soup. Self research and Doc's have turned up nothing. Hoping You could possibly lead us to at least the name. Thought a fresh comment on an old video would catch your attention. -Arden

[@toysoldier46552]

Call me old fashioned but I have always done the thick push block trick, Idk why but my fence has become a place to hold things like oh Idk my marking tools lol.

[@StumpyNubs]

I used put things on top of my fence too. But they can get knocked off and into the blade, so I stopped doing it.

[@toysoldier46552]

@@StumpyNubs Mine actually fit below the sides of the top of my fence so they can't get knocked off by wood. Never put anything taller than the top of the fence on it, that's how accidents happen ^^

[@Methuselah_]

Which software is suitable for woodwoorking?

[@StumpyNubs]

Huh?

[@Pete.Ty1]

😊👍

[@piercehawthorne8124]

Hy 👋

[@vane5736]

I would only use this for thin strips. Anything bigger your are asking for kickback since it would be too far from the blade. This was covered in one of woodworkwebs bad ideas in the workshop videos.

[@StumpyNubs]

I think I was pretty clear that this was for thin strips. That said, if you have a riving knife or splitter installed (as you always should) you won't have any risk of kickback from something like this.

[@MrKYT-gb8gs]

*only works for saw stop 😂😅

[@StumpyNubs]

That's not true.

[@MrKYT-gb8gs]

@@StumpyNubs I realise I will have to make a similar square fence like the one that comes with saw stop for accessories like this. I have a Dewalt 10inch site saw. The fence is adequate but can't do a lot of custom stuff

[@gslope1]

I hate to admit this, but this video came out a week too late. I proved last week that a push stick through most of the cut and reaching over the blade to pull the rest thru doesn't work too well. Carelessness and in a hurry. Fortunately it was just a flesh wound.

[@floridabeardedwoodworker]

HERE IS A BETTER TIP BUY A INCRA SYSTEM!!!!

[@StumpyNubs]

I have one. But it's not helpful to tell my viewers to go out and buy a $600 table saw fence so they can cut thin strips.