A DAY OUT IN SAVILE ROW | A VISIT TO DEGE & SKINNER

[@DegeandSkinner]

Ashley, thank you for taking the time to come to visit us here at 10 Savile Row for Concours on Savile Row. Was a true pleasure to meet you face to face and I know William Skinner enjoyed your chat enormously. We hope to see you (and your wife!) back on Savile Row very soon, Cass on behalf of the team at Dege & Skinner

[@TheChapsGuide]

Hi Cass, I was our absolute pleasure to visit the workshop and meet the crew. I thoroughly enjoyed my chat with Mr. Skinner and meet you in person was a highlight, of course! I hope that you received the 'thank you' card that I sent to No 10 after our visit. We enjoyed the event and had an amazing time. Please do keep me in mind for any future collaborations, I think my viewers have a taste for Savile Row and I know it is such a fascinating location in the history of sartorial evolution. Fondest regards, Ash

[@DegeandSkinner]

@@TheChapsGuide a truly lovely handwritten thank you letter awaited me on my return to my desk at Number 10 x

[@douglasdietz7503]

Ash my good chap! That was brilliant! Especially enjoyable was the news of how busy Savile Row is. Cheers to them all!

[@mpithmore4643]

Always a pleasure to start my day with coffee and the Chap’s guide. Thanks Ash.

[@louisebrown4622]

Sounds like a fantastic day very interesting

[@kenneth7826]

Excellent !!!!! Your combo is outstanding..you just received a BRAVO from me..enjoy your day and week...congrats 2 Manchester City..they are the champs of europe..peace

[@philipklink5406]

Hi Ash, Not sure how the other Patrons and Subscribers would feel, but I'd be happy to make a contribution to a fund to have you go through the bespoke suit process and share it with us all. That would be a journey that I'd like to take. Enjoy your time in the US. Cheers! Phil

[@TheChapsGuide]

You are very kind for suggesting such a thing Phil, but I think it would be improper for me to follow such a path, I’m here to give and not take. I’ll get there one day - fingers crossed

[@philipklink5406]

Totally understand Ash. Good luck on that journey. Cheers! Phil

[@danielrohrig4969]

Danke!

[@TheChapsGuide]

Thank you sir, a most kind gesture! I hope you enjoyed the content. Ash

[@Dappertrucker]

Most recently the Saville row gave me a compliment on my upper casual attire video during my Sartorial journey

[@Rennacius]

Such a nice video. I’m going to London for the first and maybe only time in my life, you have helped me decide where to buy quality clothing. Thank you very much!

[@oliver1965]

Ash- GrAcie for this inspiring info. Get going 🚀

[@imranahmed8138]

Great insights, thank you for sharing. Saville Row is a very special place.

[@lolollolol5654]

new subscriber here, I love your "am I a chap videos the most", we definetly need more of them and they are very educational. best regards from berlin

[@tonywaters737]

Great video Ash. Didn’t know D&S were so connected with royalty. By your own example, if you have a large collection of Rolex watches, you ARE in a position to buy a bespoke suit from D&S - I dare you 😮😅

[@MrBurtonshaw]

I was thinking the same! Over to you Ash :)

[@flasherol3764]

Morning, Ash. Good video. I'll be taking a visit to Savile Row. Amazing experience.

[@michaelgibson4705]

Ash interesting your comments regarding the modern style of men’s suits being worn so tight they pull at the button and skinny trousers,it’s brings to mind an image of the late,great Norman Wisdom.Connery’s suits worn as JB look as good today as in the 60s.Classic style is timeless

[@nigelmoscrop9987]

You were the smartest chap on Savile Row !

[@ronaldpoppe3774]

Ash what a wonderful opportunity for you to visit and talk with the people associated with a fine bespoke tailoring establishment. It looks like you had a wonderful time. I am very envious. Thank you for sharing. I had a similar experience in London with a friend of mine in 1996 when we were able to visit the fine bespoke gun-making establishments like Purdy, Holland & Holland and Rigby . We were taken back to see the long room at Purdeys and were shown the gun makers shop at Rigby where we spoke to a number of Craftsmen. It was an experience I will never forget. I agree with your point about spending thousands of dollars on a watch. If you spend $10,000 on a Rolex watch you could buy two nice bespoke suits. It is all where your priorities are I guess. Thank you again for sharing this memorable experience. Cheers Ron

[@martinbevan4015]

A few years ago my wife paid for a personal tour of some of this savile row tailors. We toured Gieves and Hawkes, Huntsman, and others. They were all very approachable. An American lady Cindy Lawson arranged the tour ending with a discount afternoon tea at Fortnam and Mason. She also arranges tours of jerman street.

[@St.CrispinsDayGLORY]

I agree on Bonds' tailoring returning to the timeless and elegant style. Incidentally, I found the Heineken add where Daniel Craig gives up his martini for a beer ghastly, TBH.

[@baberoot1998]

Love your channel Ash! As a fellow dapper man, all the way from Houston, Texas, (yes, we have a little bit of culture, even here in the Southern US...lol), I much appreciate your videos! (And yes...I have cowboy boots in my shoe collection...many pairs...lol).

[@TheChapsGuide]

I’ve been to Houston a few times (I was once a regular visitor to the Lone Star state - my beer of choice was Shiner Bock) and I can attest to the dapper chaps I regularly encountered. I particularly love the hat culture that you have there too. Stay cool brother, I know how hot it gets there. I’m actually in Philadelphia at the moment to attend a wedding, and just drove through a mini tornado, so much more interesting weather than safe England!!

[@hunterluxton5976]

Absolutely fantastic evaluation of Saville Row. I would like to have such a suite made, but 6K is currently out of my budget. 3K, is more of my budget.

[@williamkazak469]

Very interesting video. Mr Skinner was very generous answering your questions. I have always wondered about gaining weight and the weight fluctuations that most men experience. That could make a bespoke suit useless.

[@penguin_edits]

They usually put 2 inches or more of seam allowance for weight fluctuations. So you would have to gain a bit of weight.

[@MrBurtonshaw]

I've heard the hardest change a tailor has to deal with is a customer who starts going to the gym .... your whole frame changes. As the chap below says, a proper suit will have more seem allowance left so things can be altered.

[@verykeen2please]

Very Interesting There is also a mid range option of using regional Taylor's for a bespoke suit at a more obtainable cost

[@jeffhreid]

Good video. Enjoying your content Ash, keep up the great work.

[@anthonybee1981]

Thoroughly enjoyed this - very interesting to hear the thoughts of Mr Skinner.

[@viclucyzia]

I'm going to London in September and of course I will be walking down the Chap Nirwanas streets. Very excited. I will dream as I could never afford such things whether may it be high end suits, high end shoes or luxury watches. I will wear my Seiko, Navy Blazer, Cheaney Oxford shoes, hat and my humbleness. But I will bring back many pictures I will take.

[@TheChapsGuide]

Enjoy the experience - ecstasy for the eyes!

[@darrenhall7454]

Another great video! 😁👍 Yes, Tom Ford is a strange choice of Taylor for Bond. I thought that, too. Linking taylors and Bond; I hear a chap called Aaron Taylor-Johnson is being mentioned for the role.

[@johnacteson5503]

I totally agree with you about paying for good quality items if you can afford it. I bought a pair of loake boots after watching your videos on shoe manufacturers and then a pair of Barker shoes. As you said, if looked after over a number of years of use the original cost is not so high. Buy cheap, buy twice.

[@TheChapsGuide]

Exactly!!

[@oliver1965]

Feel that this was inspiring for you. Me too

[@TheChapsGuide]

Absolutely. I just need to find £6K down the back of the sofa and I’ll be knocking on the door of D&S, definitely my favourite Savile Row tailor for many reasons!!

[@supersonique001]

One of my few left items on my life's 'bucket' list is a Savile Row bespoke suit from Anderson and Shepard in a cream dupioni silk materiel ! One day.......

[@presumablysteve]

A very interesting and entertaining video. I always enjoy your videos around fashion and style - it's a real highlight of the channel. Involuntarily laughed out loud at the remark about the style of Mr. Graham Norton - "Flamboyant - almost circus-like" 😂 I'll be keeping that one in the back pocket I think! And while you're talking about London, a while back I recall that you mentioned you were planning a series of videos based around Gentleman's Clubs - is that still something we can look forward to? Keep up the great content!

[@misteroz]

Thanks for the video Ash, will definitely check this event out next May! I’d also say that although the numbers under discussion are eye-wateringly expensive for many, good investments usually are! But the value of a good investment - be it sartorial, financial or educational - is realised slowly, and over the long term.

[@TheChapsGuide]

I totally agree!

[@sackwhacker]

Coincidentally, I just had my first bespoke suit commissioned. I like to think of everything you purchase as a long term loan whether it be a car or your PC/phone. I did the math, and if you were to wear the suit for decades, then it'll cost you less per wear in comparison to an off-the-rack suit and definitely a rental suit. In addition to that, saving up for a bespoke suit adds to the satisfaction it brings!

[@TheChapsGuide]

Thanks for sharing!

[@morrisdoug6497]

Like yourself I don't think I will ever afford a Saville Row bespoke suit but I do buy custom suits from Joseph Abboud and Spier and McKay here in North America. But last year I bought a suit from Redmayne using their suit copy service. And this year I have a suit on order using their Ready to be Worn service.

[@kennethjohnson4838]

Thanks for this terrific video! The £6000 price point is high for a standard suit, but you really are paying for the follow-up service at that price. I wonder if they will apply alteration fees after the suit is purchased?

[@jeffhreid]

Bespoke clothing is expensive but it is a quality premium product

[@Gordo3958]

I think it is also worth mentioning that the likes of Dege and Skinner are also moving into the RTW and the made to measure market. In fact, I am waiting on a made to measure DB blazer they are currently making for me. It is still not cheap c £1500 but about half the price of the same bespoke garment. For that you get to choose the cloth and the jacket is made to your measurements from a stock pattern. What you miss out on is something made to your precise measurements from your own pattern with two or three fittings. I have now got to the age in my sixties where I’ve had too many awful suits and am going to commission my first bespoke suit. I so wish I would have had the money to do it earlier. My advice would be to do some careful research as there are a lot of bespoke tailors who have worked for some of the best tailors such as Anderson & Sheppard and Huntsman who are in London and the counties and not necessarily on Savile Row.

[@Paul-fq9pj]

I was watching OHMSS the other week George Lazenby looked the Part and his Suit looks great , so did Sean’s in Never say Never Again .. Douglas Haywood made that suit I hope they go for Henry Cavill he looked the part in The Man from Uncle remake very smart I wish they would reboot Bond back to the 60s

[@isaacfletcher3067]

Hi Ash, From NZ, I recently went through Redmaynes and used their Suit copying service. It cost me almost double the British pound in local currency and is the most expensive thing I own even more than my car, I believe their suit copying service has increased in price but is still about 1400 pound for a Standard suit . I am currently trying a bespoke local service and am interested how it'll compare as its a good 500 pounds cheaper so nearly 1/3rd of the price off. Anyways if you are on a budget and looking for something affordable but of excellent quality I cannot fault it, now my most worn suit I've only had it a few weeks.

[@petesmitt]

I love my perfect fit Savile Row tailor made linen sport jacket, but 2 of my favourite clothing items are a pure Australian Merino wool suit and a pigskin leather jacket, both very well made in NZ..

[@artmallory970]

Very Informing Vid, Ash. The way things are going these days, the next 'James Bond' will likely be a black, homosexual transformer in a wheel-chair. Timothy Dalton was thought to be the closest Bond to what Flemming had in mind in the original novels.

[@MrBurtonshaw]

Fleming wanted Niven, but grew to consider Connery very good. I've heard Dalton is rated amongst the experts.

[@daniell2217]

Thank you for sharing your experience w/D&S. Really enjoyed it. Couple comments - (1) best dressed modern men are Nick Foulkes and Tom Chamberlin. (2) I love your pocket squares! Where do you get them? (3) for those flirting w/bespoke tailoring, remember that you need not go whole hog from the get go. That is, if you’re trying to figure out if this is right for you, you can get a pair of trousers. It will be much, much less, and you’ll have mostly the same experience.

[@TheChapsGuide]

My pocket squares are collected over decades and from many sources - ETSY is a good starting point.

[@BCCampion]

I just read an article in The Spectator which stated that Jacob Rees Moog is the best dressed British political figure since Anthony Eden.

[@TheChapsGuide]

Putting politics aside, Sir Jacob certainly stands apart from his contemporaries as regards to his garb and I have no doubt he is a regular on Savile Row. He favours the ultra-traditional and very loose fitting style in his double breasted suits. I think has plays up to his own image and deliberately dressed in an old fashioned way to cultivate a ‘style’ by which he is easily identifiable. It seems to have worked well for him.

[@smacwhinnie]

I understand JRM uses a local, rural tailor in his home constituency

[@e-remes7029]

Good morning Ash As I sit here in a Pair of MTP shorts (made from Combat trousers) and a Royal Enfield T-Shirt, drinking a black coffee from a replica 1940s NAAFI mug I muse of the casualisation of men's attire.🤣 I suppose that if there is a need for even a small number of gentleman requiring bespoke suits, there will always be a tailor's ready to furnish their requirements. Mr Skinner must see a kindred spirit in you to be so generous with his time and facilities. Would you now consider parting with one of your watches to finance a bespoke suit? An interesting note on catering for James Bond, cutting a suit to accommodate a concealed firearm and the need for dynamic movement. For most of us that would not be a requirement. Being able to stow, and easily retrieve a mobile phone however is a frequent need for all of us. Carriage of a phone always affects how a jacket hangs on the shoulders and the fall of the front. Trouser pockets are also in the wrong orientation to allow ease when sitting if you have your phone therein. I have recently considered adding a phone pocket into my mess dress jacket or waistcoat, as the Victorian design does not lend itself to modern necessities. To allow for dynamic movement, do you see that as: a. darts/ gussets or b. use of man made stretch fabrics to achieve the require "give"? 🧐 *Salute

[@05Rudey]

It is my aim to have a tailored suit and at least one item from a Savile Row House, like a Blazer from No1 Gieves & Hawkes.

[@ryangrimm9305]

Ash, well done, glad you had a chance to experience that. As for myself... *sigh* All right, in the realm of fantasy... It would take the lottery, but I would indeed go to Saville Row, where I would walk about and look through the windows, and perhaps have a number of photos of suits from history that I would like to see on myself. I feel I would be fairly conservative except for a few...unique items. But first, a good lunch and a bit of a rest before the day presents itself. Never shop for ANYTHING while hungry or completely full. Once I had picked out a place, go in and say "Hello, I present a challenge. Could you, WOULD you take me on as a client?" If they do, then move on from there. After that, have them suggest a place where I could get temporary togs until my suits, shirts etc. would be ready. Lots of shopping would be involved; I have a very definite sense of what my style should be, and from what time periods, and would resist any attempt to change my mind UNLESS they could outline the reasons why I should choose differently. I'm good for shoes and a few accessories such as tie furniture, but pretty much everything from socks to hats would be on a massive list. Not to mention sturdy hat boxes, trunks (we're talking a lot of clothing here), and ancillary items from desert/expedition wear to vintage/antique styles. And, poor craftsman that I am, talk to the people making these things, to show how much I appreciate their labors. Oh, and pocket watches, chains....must have them, can't abide a wrist watch, never could. Again, Thank You Ash.

[@ryangrimm9305]

As an aside, back in the 1970s I was in a position to buy a couple of decent suits and tailored shirts, having read a book called 'Dress For Success'. All wore like iron, and I resisted the foppish exaggeration of the period (pastels? LEISURE SUITS? By The Gods NO!). Sadly most was lost in a fire some years later, except for my 1920s tails that I had been married in. It had been in storage, still exists, and I may be giving that to a friend to wear. It's packed in my wardrobe trunk, awaiting my hoped-for lottery win and round-the-world trip on the QE2.

[@MrBurtonshaw]

Fab video again Ash. To be honest, to my mind spending thousands on a watch is a waste of money.... spending thousands on a bespoke suit is NOT ! My late dad did a few commissions. He did painting and sculptures. The cost seemed rather a lot, but if you saw the research, practice and time it took for him to finish a job you'd think it was hardly worth bothering.... he was a teacher to pay the bills. For us mortals, the only way to get somewhere near is to buy a used example and find someone who is mustard at alterations.. I can shorten shirt sleeves properly, moving the placket up and can add darts to slim a shirt, I can also taper and hem trousers ... but I'm slow and not quite as neat as a proper tailor/seamstress/machinist , but I get somewhere close to okay.

[@viclucyzia]

That's good. You save quite some money doing it all yourself.

[@TheChapsGuide]

That is an admirable skills sir. I wish I could do the same.

[@MrBurtonshaw]

@@TheChapsGuide Properly shortening shirt sleeves takes a bit of thought and planning, I'm slow and don't find it easy peasey. Tapering and hemming trousers is a piece of cake. Old, high quality sewing machines are cheap... good quality thread and needles, pocket money. If you hand hem trousers, like proper tailors do, you just need a decent needle and thread and it's quite easy with the benefit of not having a visible stitch on the outside.

[@MrBurtonshaw]

@@viclucyzia I have a long torso and short legs, combined with a thick neck and I'm on the portly side... so off the shelf shirts with an18 inch collar 50 inch chest fit... bar the arm length. If I couldn't sew and alter, most clothes would be unwearable.

[@nikolajovicic174]

I expect the next James Bond individual will be a black autistic bisexual woman wearing athleisure tracksuit and sneakers since that is socially and politically correct these days. After all, the Daniel Craig died as a simp in his last scene.

[@MrBurtonshaw]

Fleming agreed and even suggested changes to some of his text as the language he had used became unacceptable. I do agree that it would be nice to stick with roughly the Bond he envisaged though.... not that I hold the old playboy Fleming in particularly high regard as a chap.

[@HenriGP]

Hi Ash, long time watcher first time commenter. I must say I always love the videos and advice, they really are always fantastic and incredibly informative! I love the blazer you are wearing, but it made me think, where do you stand on the perfect lapel width? Does your perfered width change from coat to coat? Or do you stick to one size?

[@TheChapsGuide]

I prefer a medium width lapel and certainly avoid the very large snd very thin variations, which would impact the width of tie worn with the outfit. Typically you should marry tie width with lapel width and hence I aim to keep them all in the same family of width (or thereabouts). Great to hear from you by the way. Feel free to ask anything

[@Lemingtona-x5g]

Tristan Tate says he wears Savile Row tailored suits due to his large frame

[@terrydrums]

Once again, the notion that every guy is out there snatching up Rolex watches like candy is far from reality in my world. Or, maybe I’m just a miserable failure because I have to spend my money on, ya know, food and shelter for my family. 😣

[@timchamberlain6094]

First of all I need to do the lottery, then win it, then a trip to London. Sigh, one day.

[@RaoulKunz1]

Before the feature itself there is something I'm dying to learn: are you wearing a red coat or is it some form of green (my typically male exclusive colour problem here with red and green...)? But if it's red (even if it's green) is makes a superb combination with the light-hearted "beware!"-tie and the dotted pocket square - it's all looks jjust a tiny bit tongue-in-the-cheek without cutting off any seriousness at the knee - I *love it!* (I feel it *is* red, but I'm utterly insecure about reds and greens😅) I honestly feel that I should not have a bespoke suit made even if I could afford it (well, I just about *could* but I feel it would be an almost *insanely inappropriate* use of my budget and cut *way* more deeply into it for a while than I'd feel justified in doing this in sartorial matters) until.. well *forever* or, in the unlikely case I have the budget to treat it as an appropriate investment, until I feel I have refined my tastes more. Coming from the other end, in a way, it's really intriguing to get a bit of a tiny little window into the work of a bespoke tailoring house because it, weirdly enough, feels very familiar to me. It even looks from the photo shown a bit like my own work place... without all the chemicals and potentially hand-mangling machines and leather work implements and... still.. familiar in a weird way... Thank you for this feature! Best regards Raoul G. Kunz

[@TheChapsGuide]

It's a forest green coat and red pocket square. It was the best combo I could come up with due to the crushing heat.

[@arslongavitabrevis5136]

I have been doing some research and although I understand the position and prestige of "DEGE & SKINNER" is obvious that you are paying a fair amount extra for the name and I don't like that. Here are three excellent and reputable British houses offering bespoke suits of the highest quality at a lesser (and more reasonable) price: KENT & HASTE (prices start at £ 4.300 + VAT) Tailors to Prince Philip STEED (prices start at £ 4.000 + VAT) ex-Anderson & Sheppard STEVEN HITCHCOCK (prices start at £ 4.200 + VAT) ex-Anderson & Sheppard where his father was Master-Cutter for over a decade. All the prices are for 2-piece suits I shall never be able to afford any of them but I hope some of you will benefit from this information. Regards.

[@Dunkelzeitgeist]

I'm sure this will be brilliant, saving to watch later when I have a pipe and a whisky 🥃

[@TheChapsGuide]

Hope you enjoy it!

[@Dunkelzeitgeist]

​@@TheChapsGuideI am catching back up, back to here 6months ago, watching it all over again and it's just as good second time around!

[@chrisblanc663]

As much as I think Craig looks good as Bond, I really do lament most of the outfit choices of the movies. Loved the cut throat razor scene though…

[@b_altmann]

That was very interesting! And the cars, superb. To the point of dressing formally: even Elon Musk and Mark Zuckerberg have been known to wear suits - when attending a court hearing. - I find that those people who have mastered “sprezzatura” are dressed rather well. James Bond: they are playing a rigged game with his suits there. The jacket and shirt sleeves were lengthened for the motorcycle scenes so that the sleeves would not be pulled up as they normally would have been. I guess they have different tailoring for each scene, but make it appear as if it was the same suit.

[@arslongavitabrevis5136]

The character of James Bond has already been destroyed as the hands of the people who run the entertainment business and the media. Daniel Craig turned out to be an awful James Bond; a stern, humourless killer without the traditional British dry humour and stylishness that characterised Sean Connery and Roger Moore. Sorry! I digressed! Craig's wardrobe is disagreeable, to say the least; those horrible, ridiculous tight suits look as if they were made out of lycra. PS: Thank you for such a nice, interesting video. I am glad you had such a wonderful day. Regards.

[@monkeypawism]

I can't watch Daniel Craig as Bond. I refuse.

[@BRIANCOVER13]

I agree.Bond’s tailoring has really slipped.

[@MrBurtonshaw]

My complaint about some aspects of Bond now is that they have taken it too far into an action film... it's good, but I loved the early Bond stuff... Craig's dress is wondering into fashion, posh fashion, but still fashion. I like some of it. I'd set Bond films in the 50s and early 60s...

[@arslongavitabrevis5136]

@@monkeypawism Me too! The man is unbearable!

[@jimmydigital]

"standing apart" these days merely means wearing a graphic UFC t-shirt as opposed to a football shirt. lol. A beanie instead of a baseball cap. or a graphic political statement, jokey slogan... that's the way most people are inclined to "show some personality" via a fashion statement.

[@rezaulmiah6438]

First