A few questions for you about renovating my abandoned factory

[@JohnDisque]

After sanding and scraping the loose paint from the cement - use a cement primer and paint it with white traffic-marking paint (the same paint they use for the lines on the highways and parking lots). It comes in spray and brush and your dollar will gor further with the brush-on. Thrift stores sell massive, framed prints for a few dollars. They come with massive sheets of glass. Any local stained glass artist will be happy to cut this glass to size (12"x10") for your exterior windows. I would do it for you if I was anywhere near you but I'm in TN. Good luck and peace.

[@nicolethijs5428]

I understand why the factory part is so interesting. It’s like a treasure hunt every day! I just found you by accident and am already hooked!

[@jamesgibbs9043]

But Seriously: this place reminds me of a mill we rented in Dover, NH in the 90's, absolutely filled with crap. Having had some mill reno experience, and also being a contractor for 25 years now, focus on your roof and your windows. Patch those holes, even temporarily, they will get worse faster than you can imagine. Learn to cut glass, and glaze, it's not hard. As others have pointed out, it will save you a fortune in heat and lighting to have functional windows. Best of luck, we can't wait to see what you do with it!

[@pitbull2743]

Oh yes. The roof should be at the top of your list. The longer it leaks, the more it will destroy, costing you much more than expected.

[@DK-jg5vk]

Those cabinet handles and tag holders look like galvanized sheet metal available from any metal supplier. You could probably make a jig to form the handles quickly by utilizing an inexpensive hydraulic arbor press from Harbor Freight. They could be formed by hand in a vise with a wood mallet, but that would take longer.

[@brickandsole]

The good thing is that I have a lot of that. Someone mentioned metal folding pliers.

[@DK-jg5vk]

@@brickandsole Folding pliers might be able to replicate the handles and the tags for sure.

[@terryhandrahan3916]

Definitely galv. sheet metal

[@jfrench0]

Yup as we used to call it: galvie sheet metal

[@jfrench0]

The overhead pipe might be steel pipe the cutters weren’t designed to cut, they’ll cut the cast iron no problemo. You might have to cut the steel pipe with a sawzall

[@edieseldad7995]

The box with copper bus bars is a fuse panel. And the box above it is a transformer to lower the voltage.

[@brycereid7047]

Easiest way to figure out the pattern for handles would be to use one of the old ones. Flatten it back out and then trace around it to make a pattern.

[@Dardrum]

I wish I lived near the factory, I would love to help you out for free too lol

[@wollaminfaetter]

+1

[@Ericlawless]

+2

[@Flower3394]

I hope you find my message. I found your shoe factory buildìng very interesting. As for the cabinets with all the drawers. Yes, that would be the original cabinets that were used for making shoes. Each drawer would have all the textiles precut to make the shoes. What ever size shoe they are working on. They would open the drawer to pull that piece of leather out. They would also have a foot form in various sizes. That they put the shoe pieces on. So that it fit perfectly for the person to purchase. Id search for youtube or something on shoe factories in that era and see how they made shoes. So the leather pieces are cut in another part of the factory. They have die cuts that is put in a press that cuts the leather. They would grab the wood foot form in whatever size. And they start assembling the shoe at their station sewing it together by hand. Soles were applied by a strong glue. And nails. Im so into this kind of history. I watch alot of youtube. Hehe.

[@shilokominarek1884]

I wish this place could have been turned into a few homes .. The look is awesome

[@johnszurek5209]

You might wanna consider starting a second channel. That way you can keep your content on your antique channel. And can focus all of your remodeling of your factory work on the other channel. I can assure you that there are Tens if not hundreds of thousands of viewers out there who would appreciate all that you're doing in the factory and would subscribe and watch your channel.

[@brickandsole]

Subscriber growth has hit me like a truck this week. It's all about the building. I might have to keep the building stuff here and move the antiques to another channel. Cheers.

[@almostanengineer]

@@brickandsole personally, I prefer to see creators keep to a single channel, I can pick and choose what I watch, without having to look at multiple channels to see what they have uploaded.

[@SagebrushRambles]

@@almostanengineer This comment.

[@TheAmateurListener]

And I'll bet if you added "abandoned factory" and/or something about "cleaning out the biggest hoard in the world" or something like that, you'd get more subscriber/viewer traction.

[@frozenoem1]

I wish you’d check with local FD to see if these valves are connected to fire sprinkler system, for flushing /draining your sprinklers. Once or twice per year depending yon jurisdictions .👍UGL bonds to concrete, Dri Lok I think for name works.

[@user-rx3ew9fq5r]

Once you get the BIG steel pipe out of that concrete pump house out back of the building, you could bust up a bunch of those unwanted toilets to fill that up with so it doesn't become something someone could fall into and get hurt.

[@Sonny_Eclipse]

The cabinet with the copper Bars looks like an electrical fuse panel to me. The copper bars are used as wire to carry that heavy load used in a factory. As for the high pressure water valve, If you notice a pipe is bolted to the top and also to the bottom so the water valve is going to be contained within that center section. If I were interested in the design of the valve itself I would try and find a name or model number and do a Google search I’m sure it’s out there

[@tomrausch7014]

Regarding the long panel on the e wall that had the copper strips, my wife Terri said lay it down and put glass over the opening and turn it into a coffee table. 🤷‍♂️

[@brickandsole]

yeah that would be amazing.

[@Haegar]

About the toilets and other ceramic stuff: What you can't relatively quickly sell/give away just smash into small pieces and use it to fill some of your groundhog holes in the yard 😏

[@66skate]

Those galvanized handles and card holders were probably what you could buy before home centers existed in an actual hardware store. The cabinets were probably made in house to suite the company needs.

[@HabitualButtonPusher]

Concrete: Pressure wash or sandblast existing rust/paint. Test a foot square bit with concrete primer sealer, killz is good. Lightly sand the primer, blow off dust with a shopvac or leafblower and paint whatever color you want. Oh and I would post signs “This area is under video surveillance” or whatever on each side of the property if you are still having trespass and vandal issues.

[@brickandsole]

Very comphrensive. Thanks.

[@chaosplan]

Don’t paint it! Pressure wash and strip the paint off then seal with clear concrete sealer.

[@mrsmith1339]

My friend was a master plumber. He roved cast iron pipe and bathtubs with a hammer. Much quicker. Now days, a battery powered riciprocating saw will also do it. If you want cast isron pipe removed. pull it losse and smash it on the floor. you might as well pull the electrical fixtures out , you can't use them. Why worry about functional window sills when you have so many that are rotten? With the proper paint and preparation, paint will holfd to concrete very well. Go asky you favorite paint store, and see what you can afford. Cheap paint requires more labor, more material and doesn't last.

[@morganbradshaw5464]

cheapest way to get rid of those toilets is exactly what another viewer said. fill those holes with them. they look to be large water tanks and everyone currently wants low water usage ones now. you will only have to transport them outside versus paying for a bin. im very surprised that your building hasnt been stripped of all that copper. if it were the city i live in the scumbags would have already done so. i wish you the best of luck.

[@brickandsole]

Well so far it has paid for 3 dumpsters. I am sure some of it has walked off at some point. I did find some empty conduit.

[@daleholland6983]

That Wheeler cutter is for cutting cast iron soil pipe or water main. It won't cut steel pipe. The first cabinet appears to be from the plumbing supplier. The labels are for plumbing fittings.

[@edsmith5448]

@17:08 contact Habitat for Humanity or any vintage furnishings company out of your area even for sale,donation, or scrapping ideas.

[@edsmith5448]

Also let them know you have several colors

[@mwatkins2464]

At 6:27 the big sewer pipe is cast iron and that’s the only kind of pipe I’ve seen cut with the hydraulic pump cutter. Plumbers use them. I don’t think you can cut steel pipes with it. You will ruin the blades and you need to get any air out of the cutter and replace any fluid you lost changing the hose out. Where the water tower was , if you cut those valves out you are going to have a open pipe running to the underground water aquifer which anything you drop down in there will contaminate the city’s water supply. I don’t think I would do that without talking to someone with the city that’s in charge, not just an employee either. Take a sledgehammer to the toilets and make them smaller and dump them unless you have a really old one with decoration. The high end old ones will sell pretty good. I’ve had to throw tons of toilets away. I wouldn’t cut those large cast iron water lines out because you will just have to replace them. The cast iron is desirable because they deaden the sound of water flowing in or out of them. PVC pipes lets you hear everything going through them.

[@HeadshotZod]

1) Figure they were done in-house. Being a factory from that time period meant they had an army of trades people there. 2) Electrical Panel with fuses. They still work. Figure that there was no “circuit breaker” technology back then. It’s gorgeous. I’m an electrician. The metal box to the upper left may be a transformer. If it is, I absolutely guarantee you it’s a lot heavier then it looks. The copper inside may be worth something. The vintage toilets……. Here’s the problem. For the most part you can’t install them in new construction. They use too much water. However, I’m sure you can probably use them in older homes. Maybe in new construction if they use well water. You would have to check. I would clean out a space clean them and eBay them. The lids may have more value because people may need to replace old cracked ones. This will take a while to eBay all of them. Clean them, then on eBay just put “best offer”, local pickup only. After they are hosed down maybe you find a jobber to buy all of them. Habitat, I doubt will take them because they are not as efficient as todays from a “gallons per flush” standpoint. Try to find somebody who rents out stuff out as movie props. They make take a lot of stuff. Great channel, I just found it today.

[@serenitypeaceandcomfort3669]

As a lover of old architecture and heritage, its so interesting to watch the slow transformation of the building. So satisfying to see this historic building get saved.

[@tomschroeder4516]

That drain pipe is often cast iron - so you are correct that it's brittle and with a wheeled chain cutter - your cracking it vs. cutting it.

[@urbanurchin5930]

.......YOU'RE cracking it.......

[@JustaSlaveofChrist]

They look like galvanized sheet metal drawer pulls and label holders. They have been mass produced for more than a century, and were/are always a cheap (or should I say "cost effective") alternative to the far more expensive and ornate brass or copper pulls. They have almost always been used in an industrial setting, though many home owners utilized them in the 30's, 40's, and 50's, and even up to today for home made junk drawers out in the garage, or replacing missing ones off pieces such as yours.

[@scottbc31h22]

The metal used for label holders and drawer pulls looks like hot dipped galvanized sheet metal. You might find a close match in old heating duct.

[@kooldoozer]

What you are calling Tin is Galvanized Sheet Metal (steel). Look to a HVAC duct fab shop (Tin knocker). You need to Bleed the Air out of your pipe cutter. Just like you Bleed car Brakes. What is the piping for right now? Steam? Air? Maybe you should leave it up and use it for a sprinkler system. It is already there. Use it. As for your electrical the box with the copper buss bars is just a Fuse panel. It is still safe and should work fine. I would leave it. It is 3 phase, but you can run single phase in it, no issue. The box on the ceiling is a 3 phase transformer, for changing voltage. You should probably get 3 phase. Like 208-120v. Generally 3 phase is for motors, but you will have some load for running lots of lights. I know LED lamps are more efficient. Just get a price to compare. 208-120v is what a lot of apartment complexes use. If you are dead set on single phase, get at least 400 or 600 amp service. It is just easier ti stay with 3 phase, because all the panels are configured for 3 phase. You can reconfigure every panel, but it is a lot of work to get the load sharing right. And don't assume the existing wiring is unsafe just because it is old. Many electricians want to just sell you new work. Have someone you trust assess what you have. I am not sure what you are asking on that valve. It is a gate valve. If you cut the bolts, the flanges will separate. I have cut 3" steel with a normal oxy-actylene torch. 1" bolts should cut like nothing. Pressure wash the concrete. Then use Phosphoric acid to clean and etch the concrete. Lowes has it. Kleen Strip brand in the gallon jug. It also works well for killing rust before you paint it. Oil base Killz primer seems to stick well to concrete. I can't believe you want to get rid of the forklift. They are so handy. I have a 3000 pound Clark and it is too small for me. Maybe you want a newer one ? ? ? And fix that freight elevator. If you need a part made, contact me. -----Doozer

[@brickandsole]

Found out it is only for cast iron. In the vid it is on a steel pipe. Cheers on the detailed answers.

[@RRaucina]

That big pipe is the main feed for the water tank. Better be sure it is not under pressure! It is a gate valve, and good for scrapping if dead.

[@williamvail5631]

The hydraulic pipe cutter is for cast iron only. It's essentially a chain type pipe cotter . Steel pipe will not crack like cast iron.

[@jacksondonna5258]

The toilets make great planters maybe on top of the concrete blocks of the pomphouse. In like a circle with the backs against each other. If you want to go extreme then make like a fountain with water coming out of the toilets haha

[@oldtop4682]

The box on the wall above the distribution panel is likely a step-down transformer - it'll be heavy. Love the distro panel with the fuses! Cut the valves out above and below by a few inches and see what you can do with them on a bench. Use epoxy paint on the concrete, but preparing the surface is key to success. Blast the old paint off and hit it with a sealer first. You can still get the glass, but it is pricy. Take a measurement before removing the old glass. If these are fully inset into the frame, you will need to measure the depth of the dado (groove) that the glass sits in. Once you have that, you subtract 1/8" +/- from all sides and you have your full size. The frame can be taken apart, but if you don't have the woodworking skill hire someone who does. Be careful with the size of the toilet tanks! If those are the old 5 gallon ones you can't sell them legally unless they are replacing a like toilet (not kidding). Folks have been busted bringing these down from Canada - also not kidding. My dos centavos for what it's worth.

[@brickandsole]

Comprehensive answer. Many of them are the old toilets.

[@oldtop4682]

@@brickandsole Thanks. I may, or may not, have had some Scotch last night lol. I haven't lived in Illinois in years, but check the rules on those toilets.

[@RobJohnson-cm8iw]

glass cab doors, A SPECIALIST, and cabinet makers want to get PAID . harbor frieght and or menards have routers with fixed base and plunge bases and have edge guides buy the tool with the money you,ll find more uses for it the jount is called a cope and stick ,from the back side to grove is about 1/4 inch thick and depth of grove is about 3/8/ use a scrap piece to dial it in take a shallow pass ,re adjust square our each corner and mark so you know where to stop travel right to left with router its doable take your time its not really as daunting as it seams Rob

[@momkatmax]

Some of those big iron pipes might be drains for rain water, so be careful taking them out. The thing with the door is a "Buss Box" or a kind of breaker box. High voltage, and it would trip those big bars, SNAP!

[@brickandsole]

Can you imagine what a nightmare that would be? I think you are right as there are no restrooms on that side of the building. However the current roof is a buildover, so the drain would have been from the roof underneath.

[@elrobo3568]

BEFORE YOU USE A TORCH ON THOSE PIPES GET THEM TESTED, IT LOOKS LIKE AN UNDERGROUND STORAGE TANK FOR EITHER HEATING OIL (FLAMMABLE) OR POSSIBLY SEWAGE (METHANE GAS) With UST's (underground storage tanks) they can be a nightmare for you because if you own the property you are responsible for removing them and remediating the soil to current EPA standards. These were supposed to be disclosed before sale as to whether they are a possible problem. There are a lot of companies having or making antique industrial drawer pulls, Esty is one. Do a search for antique industrial drawer pulls. the label holders look like made in house, a small metal brake (Harbor freight) and galvanized sheeting would do. It looks like the hose you replaced is not high pressure and expands so it won't transmit the pressure to the cutter. With all the cutting you need to do I would suggest buying a used Hurst jaws of life tool. I am a retired firefighter, and they would be the best to use for all the cuts you have to do. there are a lot of used for sale. Go to your local fire departments and ask if they have any surplus that they will sell. A lot of times there are no longer serviceable tools that they have that they will sell cheap.

[@moneygooddude]

The toilets make great planters!

[@keithm6117]

Before painting concrete you could brush it clean and only use "masonry paint" as its breathable..

[@fillg]

An option for the cabinet that is missing drawers... instead of trying to make new drawers and get them to look similar you could cut off the bottom 2 rows of drawers and still have 4 rows of drawers that all look the same plus a couple extra leftover drawers The big electrical box on the 3rd floor is an old school 3 phase fuse box similar to a modern breaker panel. The round things on the right are the fuses. The box beside it is basically fused switch.

[@brickandsole]

I thought about cutting it. I'll try the drawers and if I am unable to knock it out of the park I'll cut it down.

[@maeganbeyer5801]

Alternatively for if you can’t replicate the drawers - take out the runner the drawer would sit on and put a flat piece all the way across and it becomes like a cubby. For the apothecary door with the broken glass it’s likely just very old glass so it’s wavy because they didn’t have the precision tools to make it perfectly flat. See if you can find a stained glass company, they can likely source similar glass and possibly fix or point you in the direction of someone who can fix.

[@brycereid7047]

Be careful removing those drainage pipes they may be attached to the flat roof drains.

[@mwatkins2464]

@The CreativiZt - Website & Video Assets this r This roof has copper gutters that run down the sides of the building

[@cwilt3352]

Hi Jake, you have a lot of good answers about your questions, however some are just responses. It’s great you want to fix up that big old building, but you need to sit down and make a plan if you haven’t yet. Your priority should be the roof and drain from the rain and water. Then your walls and windows because in Five years you said will come and go and you jumping around will not get it done. You need to subcontract jobs out even if it puts you in debt. That is the way you do it and leave the great little projects aside for now. As for your questions you have the answers in the comments but they are not important to fixing the building big problems.

[@fillg]

I'm pretty sure those cutters are only for cast iron pipes, not steel. The cast is brittle like you mentioned so it would probably cut that big one just fine even though it's a lot bigger and thicker than the one you have it on now. I think for the steel pipes they usually use a torch or just a reciprocating saw or grinder. There may be a big version on the pipe cutters they use on copper pipes with the little cutter wheel and you tighten it then spin it around the pipe then tighten it more until it cuts through but I'm not sure

[@brickandsole]

That's what I've been hearing. I can't use a torch in the building it's still a tinderbox. But now I know which ones I can use the cutter on.

[@bartismoellis1052]

If you can’t find those handles just cut the bottom two rows off then you won’t need to make drawers to match either.

[@bartismoellis1052]

Porch paint for concrete but if you can get most of the paint off I would use a clear water sealant then you will eliminate a maintenance problem of failing paint.

[@bartismoellis1052]

In some states at least it is illegal to sell old toilets to be reused because they are not the water saving low flow type.

[@rickmay7360]

Hi Jake, I’m a mechanical designer who designs fire and general plumbing projects. Steel piping is pressure pipes & cast iron pipes are drain, waste and vent piping. That cutter is specifically for cast iron pipe. On the tower pit, contents is pressure vessels (large flanged units). Those valves are large gate yoke & stem style valves. Factories water source possibly for either fire or even steam boiler use (I didn’t notice any large piping to a specific area in the plant). Hope this helps. Lots of work you’re taking on. Good luck.

[@moonshinefuel]

Jake your journey is super interesting. Your subscriber count doubled in a week. I would at this point make an intro when you can, for all your videos. Something like 15-30 seconds at most. Basically you are getting new people now and the brief intro will greatly help anyone new understand what they are seeing. Maybe show your factory in the backdrop and a brief description of what you are doing, your first name and keep the intro simple. Good stuff! Congrats!

[@brickandsole]

That's a great tip. Will try to do that this week.

[@alanpecherer5705]

Those label holders are galvanized (sheet) steel. Like heating duct. I can't recall ever seeing them for sale except in brass and they are on the expensive side. "Galvanized label holder". I would be surprised if they were made in-house while the factory was operating, they would have been 4-7 cent catalog parts when that cabinet was made. For the concrete (and 10,000 other things in that building) you probably want to sandblast and maybe you could get by with waterblasting. An angle grinder would take forever, but you don't seem limited on how much time you're ready to throw at this. I'd bet an industrial strength pressure washer would clean that concrete quickly. You want to wait until better weather on the steel bollards so that they can dry and you can spray paint them with a good primer, instead of washing them and having them sit out as bare metal for several weeks, gathering rust. I find it incredibly hard to believe you'll get much money for those huge wooden cubbyhole cabinets with the dozens and dozens of compartments and if I'm wrong, the same person who would buy those things would see around the missing labelholders. I wouldn't spend any time on those, but that's just my opinion.

[@brickandsole]

all good advice, as for the furniture stuff I am into the furniture/industrial stuff as a hobby. Just doing it for fun and enjoyment.

[@alanpecherer5705]

@@brickandsole I don't think you could convincingly reproduce those label holders without a die. Specifically, the rectangular opening with the round corners. And of course, the patina would be difficult if not impossible to reproduce. I've never hosed out a factory building the size of what you have there, but I've done fair numbers of hoarder houses. The situation was different, because the hose-out was conducted under court order and the former tenants were going to pay. I wish you luck working to get value out of the contents. In my case, the contents had higher value being GONE versus offered to some random (maybe) buyer.

[@brickandsole]

@@alanpecherer5705 I'm going to the city tomorrow to ask about pressurization.

[@johnz4639]

As others have said, the cutter is for cast drainpipe not steel supply pipe. It will cut large diameter cast iron drainpipe nicely.

[@SledDog5678]

Gosh...we love this. If I lived near I'd offer to help just for the fun of it!!!!!

[@mcgjohn22]

as others commented, the cabinet with the copper bars is an early 1900s era 3 -phase electrical panel. Those fuses coming off each of the 3 legs would be equivalent to branch circuits coming off a modern breaker panel. For industrial use, likely could not use this old panel. Doubt it would meet current NEC codes. The transformer cabinet above is most likely a step down transformer. If you can read the tags on the cabinet it should list the input and output voltages on one of the tags. Just make sure the panel is dead before you go in there and start poking around. Just a quick check with a volt meter should do the trick. As for the cabinet glass, do not recall the name, but its still made. Water fall glass is the name of the glass with a higher level of ripples or waves in it.

[@brickandsole]

Thanks, that box is right next to the elevator which is 3 phase. I bet that's why it's there.

[@JT-1969]

The paint you want to use on concrete is, Sherwin-Williams Pro Industrial Pre-Catalyzed Waterbased Epoxy, the higher the sheen the more it will shed water. This paint is amazing, once you put it on good luck getting it off, tough as nails and will last a long time. This is the paint used on industrial shelving.

[@brickandsole]

I'll add it to my list.

[@mwatkins2464]

@@brickandsole if you can wipe the concrete and chalky comes off on your hands you haven’t cleaned it enough to paint it. They make paint for concrete

[@karenchilders2449]

Can you walk on it, is it slick?

[@philipparana9225]

Dude your basically covering yourself and the environment with lead dust when you touch those old pipes and paint. No hope to God you do not have children.

[@TheMissnola]

The label holders were common all around the wester world. They're still cool because most of them were thrown out. Were they made in-house, I doubt it.

[@johnsebastianbach]

The square box connected to the fuse panel looks like a transformer. Common in factories since the panel might be 440V and the transformer would knock it down to 220 or 110 to run a piece of equipment

[@mikeleach4201]

We watch because we are envious!

[@JustaSlaveofChrist]

With regard to the iron uprights and the concrete, first wire brush the concrete, then pressure wash it. Allow it to dry thoroughly and then it must be sealed. As you know, ultimately, concrete is porous, and so water will seep in. It will also seep out, and that is where you get a lot of the paint bubbling and flaking off. Seal the concrete with something like Drylok, allow it to dry, prime the uprights, and then paint with a good oil based exterior paint, preferably masonry paint on the concrete. I used to paint professionally, both old and new construction, had my own company. By the way, I am really enjoying your channel. I like watching the progress you're making on the Brown Building, and, as I used to buy and sell antiques and collectibles online, I really like that aspect of your channel. Keep up the good work, you're doing great!

[@brickandsole]

Thanks for the kind words and of course great advice! Antiques are an addiction!

[@mikeduggan9454]

Galvi sheetmetal, you could make what ever you need to match. the problem is it will take a 100 years to tarnish like those. good luck

[@lquinn7212]

Paint concrete? Use a good primer. Like Zinsser. That will work. Zinsser will adhere to glass.

[@richw2615]

Snap cutters are good for cast iron pipe. Steel pipe will just bend. Imagine it like a class cutter.

[@brickandsole]

I have a hydraulic breaker that came with the building. I tried it on steel pipe, then learned it is only for the cast stuff.

[@MG-tp2ix]

On the second floor you have an old style fuse panel. There should be a lock on the front. Otherwise place a piece of plexiglass inside the cabinet for your protection. The box in the air is a transformer probably from 460v to 1110v considering the age of the building.

[@annberlin5811]

I could spent all day there. If you need to get rid of metal scrappers would take it

[@BrassRust]

You could always use the tin from the downed fire door to remake the drawer pulls.

[@brickandsole]

That is actually the perfect stuff! I just thought about that a few minutes ago. How weird.

[@lynngolubic2654]

Wow the 3rd floor looks so much better. Great progress!!

[@michaelmelvin6514]

Water mains from water tower and may be under pressure. Could be from well or outlet from tower. Get a blue-print from city for the layout of utilitys and where they go. Maybe hire some local person with the knowledge to be safe.

[@brickandsole]

You read my mind. doing that tomorrow.

[@thyslop1737]

Those bins with the sheet metal rectangles in front were parts bins.

[@edsmith5448]

@5:55 that is for cutting cast iron pipe like drain lines not for steel or soft metal

[@randywright8575]

Those drawer pulls and lable holders are made out of a very common material galvanized sheet metal, something you have tons of in all that air conditioner ducting.

[@brickandsole]

yeah, but it looks a bit different, it is cloudy. but maybe just from age. that is likely what I'll use to replace them.

[@brickandsole]

Is this randy wright from RARDIN?

[@Duerke]

Solid business idea would be to have an area to sell these items like a discount or new old stock. It would create foot traffic and be a good chance to establish relationships with the locals. Also put a small cafe in with fresh coffee and a unique setting , your building is huge so sitting to have a coffee and reenergize. Again providing opportunity to talk with them. Pipe with heavy bolts is the water main supply ( alot of pressure). Concrete can be cleaned with an appropriate cleaner and pressure wash and painted. Habitat for Humanity will distribute them to multiple stores.

[@brickandsole]

The tricky thing is timing, I need to get the building up to code to have folks in, but having them in would help me get it up to code. Go figure. They removed the water tower and there is no pressure anymore. I talked to the city. it was never on the grid. All in house.

[@keithbarnes9419]

@@brickandsole If you are going to use those big pipes to put statues/busts on They have to be of Buster Brown and Tige

[@johnclark7936]

The third floor panel is a fuse box. Looks like it's in very good shape.

[@kevinwassellsr.5646]

Not sure of the frequency of interaction with local inspectors but not just anything can be used for "fill" so I'd either be sneaky or get advance permission for using broken fixtures

[@stime6472]

Let me say that you are doing a wonderful job of taking on such a very very large project. And for a one man show you have done outstanding work!!! If it were me and I don't want this to come out wrong I would spend all my time cleaning up and separating good from bad. Once you can move around the building freely then take down your pipes and conduit. I believe my main goal would be buttoning up the building from the elements and the vandals. Then advance from there. As for some of the questions you had here is what I believe I can help with. The drawer pulls were mass produced and made of sheet steel. The label holder are either tin plate steel or galvanized steel also mass produced. If it is cast iron pipe you be able to break into pieces with a hammer and chisel. The big green box with the copper and fuses in it is a fuse panel. Your idea for disposing the toilets is a great one!!! You could also get rid of sinks doors and any kind of construction pieces you can think of. Please don't take offense to what i'm saying. I don't mean to insult you in anyway! You are doing a GREAT JOB and I commend you for your undertaking!

[@brickandsole]

Are you kidding!? I love good advice! KZbin has been so great for that. Thank you. My plan is similar to your with the exception of the roof being top of the list.

[@tedhamilton2362]

DC transformer box and distribution panel with copper bus bars.

[@darryllspalding9680]

sodablasting is a fantastic idea for you 😮 for paint prep

[@gohtt]

A possible idea for all the porcelain toilets is to crush them up in a cement mixer, put down some under payment and use it for a drive way or parking area. You could use it in making pavers and walk ways. Keeps it all out of the land fill.

[@brickandsole]

I might look into that, I need to do an official inventory so I know how much I have.

[@DK-jg5vk]

You may be able to find a plate of that antique wavy glass for that cabinet in an architectural salvage store. You might have to buy a larger piece and have it cut to the needed size. Then find a local woodworker or cabinet maker to install it in the frame.

[@brickandsole]

I think that is what I'll have to do. I can do everything else on it myself. But not that.

[@mwatkins2464]

@@brickandsole just google it. I know you can still buy the wavy glass. The waves come from the conveyer belts they used to use after the glass was made and still hot it rolled out on the conveyor belts as they cooled down and the rollers made those marks. You will just have to research a place that makes the glass. Good luck

[@cjpenning]

@@brickandsole I'm not sure how the panels around the glass are constructed, but if they are solid sides with a groove in them for the glass, and there's no way to disassemble them, you could just cut away the lip on the back side all the way around to the depth of the groove. Then install the new glass, and then either tack those tiny strips you cut off back over the glass, or get new strips. You'd need a table saw and a multi-tool. By now ( a month later) you've probably already dealt with it!

[@jonesmetsasta226]

You get that old glass from old houses when they change glasses to new, that class is problem to them. Just smash those toilets to pieces, takes less space in dumpster and it's a solution. You have to remember: Do you want to save the world or get your own business going? Don't waste time in things that are useless to you. Your time is most valuable thing now. You can hire someone to do gardening in summer, to carry things out of the factory, or take pipes or wires off.And you can do sorting or stuff that gets factory it self forward. Your project is awesome! Thank you.

[@brickandsole]

Thanks for good advice.

[@JustaSlaveofChrist]

About the old wavy glass in your apothecary cabinets. Glass that was made 100+ years ago was made using a process different that the one used currently. That older process was less exact than the modern (as you might guess), and the result was the wavy look, bubbles and other imperfections that are very often seen in antique windows. Your best bet would be to take measurements of the door glass, including the thickness of the glass, and then try to find and old window the same size or larger then the one in the cabinet. I'd start first by looking through all those old windows you have found in the factory. Some of them may just as old, who knows?

[@brickandsole]

I need to video the actual frame because I know for a fact that I could not do a good job installing it. It looks like the frame was built around the glass and that it wasn't caulked in or pinned in with stiff staples.

[@keithm6117]

The elec cupboard with the copper strips inside is an elec distribution fuse board, it's old style with exposed fuses 😣, the box above it is a transformer "I think".. I'd doubt they would pass H&S regs these days..

[@tikigolf]

Very old, galvanized pressed steel fittings on the handles, etc. The cabinets are awesome, btw. That's probably Schedule 40 steel pipe throughout the building, very thick heavy pipe. Not sure what the best avenue for removal would be. You might want to check with your local Pipefitters Union. Someone from there should be able to advise.

[@brickandsole]

Yeah it's heavy, as it comes down I will save it for projects.

[@johnadams3152]

Those label holder and handle that you were pointing out in your video is zinc plated steel. They used it in the old days to prevent it from rusting.

[@ajmprovidence]

Get a M18 feul Band Saw for those pipes. I just gave you the same advice for a previous video except the smaller version of the tool

[@ozarksethic]

You have a lot of that galvanized sheet metal upstairs in the HVAC components you're trying to get rid of. You can cut them apart and use them for material for your handles and card/label holders. You can buy a few simple tools - body working hammers and dollies, seaming pliers, and snips to fabricate your own. There are some good tinsmithing videos on KZbin. The cutter you are using is for cast iron, not steel. You will damage the tool on steel. A sawzall, chopsaw, or torch are better options for the steel. The valves you want to salvage are gate valves. They are serviceable/replaceable units that are bolted into the pipe to shut off flow. The gate works perpendicular to the flow of water. You should be able to remove the bolts and pull the valve out. If you want to save the bolts start soaking them in Kroil for a few days. If they still won't unscrew, heat the nuts cherry red and then put more Kroil on and try to unscrew them.

[@brickandsole]

I also heard about folding pliers. I'll check out the vids. Thanks.

[@cowboygeologist7772]

General answers, I'm not an expert. 1) We called it galvanized sheet metal on the ranch. 2) Wheeler Cutter - I think what you are looking at on the bottom is basically a grease gun to pump up to the gutter. If you have been cranking on it and it stopped, the hose may now have a lot of pressure now. 3) Electrical breaker box with fuses. Would look cool with plexiglass over it all after removing the door. Then, get a string of blue LED lights to glue one on the back side of each fuse to backlight them. 4) Water tower pit. Do NOT use that cutting torch on it before talking to Waterworks Department, or Planning Division or looking at Sanborn Maps of that old factory. Those pipes could still be high pressure and blow your head off if you compromise them. The whole town will run you off if they go without water or pressure. The law suits could be horrible. 5) Outside windows - not sure other than your idea of calking. 6) Sandblast, Kilz paint but I would be worried about more moisture getting trapped and more cement falling apart. 7) Toilet tank tops - only thing I know to use them for is testing Streak color on minerals in Geology. Check with the science teach or local college Geology depth if you are just wanting to give them away. Or run an ad for someone wanting a replacement one. Maybe an old hotel or motel owner.

[@cowboygeologist7772]

Sorry about the spelling errors, it won't let me edit things like cutter where it changed it to gutter - lol

[@brickandsole]

I'll be stopping by the water department tomorrow. I had a few folks mention that.

[@MrWaldorfian]

1. Those tag holders seem to be made of galvanized sheet metal similar to the stuff used for duct work. 2. I don't know what that pipe you have the cutter attached to really is, but I believe that cutter was designed for cast iron which is, as you surmised, brittle. You can also use a reciprocating saw with appropriate blade. You said you want to remove it all but it appears to be part of the sprinkler system. What do you plan to replace it with as far as fire suppression? 3. It looks like a prehistoric fuse box. No idea what the smaller box is but its attached to the electrical system. That would be fantastic if it were built into a table top with either epoxy fill or a tempered glass top over it. 4. That appears to be a valve. You probably got that already but if you cut it above and below the valve on the main cast iron pipe, then it will come off no problem. Its just a giant tap. 5. No idea about paint on concrete. 6. Wavy antique glass is still available but would be expensive. Since its only one pane it might be worthwhile. 7. I would definitely hit up Habitat for Humanity. They can reuse them in their many building projects.

[@dagwood1327]

I found your channel today and am going back to watch previous content. New sub. The hydraulic pipe cutter is for cast iron sewer pipe. The conduit is made to cut with a big tubing cutter sort of. You might look into a battery operated sawzall with a carbide tipped blade. It will make short order of demo work, pipe, wire, wood…. On the paint. Ask Sherwin Williams they have a block paint that etches the concrete but now days they probably have some kind of epoxy. The toilets will bust pretty easily with a sledge hammer. They make great fill but finding a place you might check with a landscaper or an excavation contractor. If you do have to landfill them it will take longer to fill the dumpster if they are broken into small pieces.

[@brickandsole]

yeah, I have been using sawmill and bandsaw. The community informed me the wheeler cutter is only for drainage. Thanks for the tips!

[@robertschaefer4228]

Break them up and use them as fill….especially for the gopher holes

[@RobJohnson-cm8iw]

you can learn alot from watching a few youtube, basic router set ups and use , cheers

[@bufords]

cabinets in old factories were mostly made in house. pressure wash concrete then etch with muratic acid, rinse, dry and paint with concrete paint.

[@roberthoffman-ft2so]

Paint the concrete with Red Guard and then paint over. The moisture from the concrete will then not effect the paint once the concrete is sealed. Be careful as that paint most likely contains lead and other metals.

[@Doing_It_Wrong]

-Try using Google Lens to identify those handles. They look to be industrially made, not in-house. You might get lucky on ebay or etsy. (Or you might find some hiding in a box.) -Contact Wheeler-Rex about the pipe cutter. They're still in business. The pipe might be too small for the chain? -All that copper and fuse stuff are breaker boxes. If you check the paper on a few of the fuses you'll probably see an amperage they support. (Maybe don't try and flip the lever in the small box unless you want to go kaboom.) -It may or may not go all the way into the pipe as a full valve. You can either cut a smallish hole where the valve would be and check with a camera, or flashlight check it from the top. -They make specific "sealer" paint for concrete and other purposes. Maybe concrete patch that busted up corner first, as it will continue to crumble. Before that, take the old stuff off with a sandblaster. -You can find just about any kind of glass you want, but it's definitely not cheap. Price wise its probably cheaper to have someone cut the glass (Or you can. It's just a glass cutter and a straight edge that's needed.) above the crack and fill in the missing spot with wood. Maybe repurpose a decorative piece you have laying around. -Once you figure out how to get the stuff out of the water tower feet you can break down and dump most of those toilets. They can be used as concrete fill. And you won't know of H4H will take them unless you call. Pick up the phone. They may take them all. They may not.

[@brickandsole]

That's what I'm gonna do with toilets. But I'll still have leftover believe it or not. The boxes are coming down.

[@ThomasHowe-qh2kv]

First, I would like to say how fortunate you are to be able to acquire this building. I absolutely love the architecture. I would like to point out that those large factory windows are original to the building for that era, I'm sure you may know this already, but those windows play a very important part in keeping the original look. So when I watch your video's, and you walk through the building during the day those windows let an enormous amount of light into the building, you don't even need electric lighting to work inside and that's only one of the coolest things about the factory. So keeping that in mind, I hope you can salvage as many of those wonderful windows as you can and not board them up or remove them. I would love to see the building in person some day. I understand it seems never ending but keep at it and keep making the video's that's one of your biggest resources. Thanks for sharing.

[@brickandsole]

I have capped them and left them intact so some day I can revisit them one by one.

[@nobodyreally8441]

My current place of employment consist of many buildings built in the same era and style as this building. Can you believe they painted all the windows?!?!? I was told many many years ago this was done so employees wouldn’t stand around looking out the windows wasting time. IDK but what a waste of natural sunlight!!! I can’t even imagine the electricity used now to light the inside. No natural sunlight whatsoever

[@bbocir477]

Those cabinets were probably made by the in house woodworking shop from buster brown. The old timers were craftsman and had a lot of scrap around and made very useful items for the drawers too. All that made by old craftsman. Your chain cutter is only for cast sewer or drain lines. It’s to crack it in half. It’s not used for rigid steel pipe.

[@brickandsole]

Yeah, that's the consensus I got. Thanks for confirming. That old-timer stuff is amazing.

[@andrewbryan1036]

I need water lok paint to seal the concrete wall and then you use oil base paint like farmers use one there fences

[@Tulsaghost1]

amazing main fuse box there

[@thomasl7817]

I'm sure you have thought of it and weighed the pros and cons already, but it seems like getting your own cheap used dump trailer would be super beneficial. Can always get your money back out of it if needed, just a thought with your channel picking up steam. I would keep the colored toilets/covers/whatever. definitely resellable. As for the rest of them.. those destruction/rage rooms where people go into just break stuff have been getting popular, not sure the process to sell or donate to them though! One suggestion i saw of making two channels.. I highly disagree I think keeping it to one is the way to go. Personally I like both the resell/antique content and factory content and how they tie together, but whatever the algorithm likes focus on that and maybe slide the other in when you can.

[@brickandsole]

Yeah, I have a 14 foot that I am going to put sides on. Unfortunately not a dump trailer.

[@horrorclukr-r4h]

concrete first power wash with medium tip on pipes use paint scraper to prep surfaces thier are many diferent products such as block paint and oil based use which ever most economical needs to be in temperatures 48 degrees or better

[@melissahalbert9455]

I LOVE ALL THE OLD FURNITURE! The apothecary cabinets, the metal cabinets...all the drawers and handles! You definitely need to become a source of antique works. People who are restoring old houses, old businesses, just people who are eclectic. Try and run some online auctions and stuff. Old time glass you would have to find a source and then have a craftsman replace it. Try selling as is.

[@brickandsole]

That is my interest, and an eventual goal for this place.

[@BUDSBEAU]

get a concrete primer and then use concrete paint . use a good spray pressure washer and get rid of all the loose dirt first.

[@shemingway1000]

What you have in the vault are outside stem & yoke gate valves. They would be of the double disc variety, the discs being bronze or iron. They look like 8" nominal diameter, 150# flange. If you cut the bolts, they'll come apart from the pipe at the flanges. I'd take a close look at the price of scrap iron before you invest too much blood sweat and tears (and cutting gas) in removing iron pipe if it's for the purpose of scrap. The stems will be brass / bronze. They are relatively common in municipal scrap dumpsters in that condition. Modern ones don't look much different. Not knocking the aesthetic, I have the top half of a fire hydrant on my porch. Those light fixtures are really cool.

[@brickandsole]

I want to cut it out for setting up next to the other one, wire up a light it would make an incredible massive industrial piece of furniture.

[@karlstreed3698]

@@brickandsole Be sure the pipes are dead! It would not be nice if it is connected to the city main!

[@mwatkins2464]

@@brickandsole man you have lamps on the brain don’t you 😂

[@frankm8533]

If you decide to cut the steel pipe where you can cut it at the threaded parts unless you use a torch and cast iron pipe will break pretty good with a sledgehammer

[@craigshupe]

have some one do some stucko on it. It will clean it up and look great.

[@brickandsole]

that's a good idea.

[@ginanoble7203]

Just take the bottom off the lge set of drawers, re purpose drawer pulls for smaller pieces of furniture, Bring in a well known artisan furniture maker to give you more idea,s

[@Bighand4]

The thing on the wall is a fusebox. Use primer before painting on concrete. Regarding the glas. It is probably better to make a new frame. Make your own landfill on your property next to the ramp :-)

[@brickandsole]

going to fill the pump houses up and turn them into raised gardens. But first I want to cut out all of the cool stuff inside.

[@kevinwassellsr.5646]

You can probly still buy the tag holders and drawer pulls from McMaster Carr

[@brickandsole]

Just found them they are called c channel label holders.

[@jackwest3282]

The box with a bunch of copper in it, all of that is a circuit braker box/fuse box.

[@richardthurston3300]

As for the toilets they are known as a slow burner but they are money displayed in neat unboxed rows on racking they will keep dropping those 10dollar bills in your pocket,the tops sell way faster 5bucks a piece easily, you have a lot of space so fill it with what you have already zero cost then dump it later when you need the room for more valuable items