A Square Setup on Shapeoko

Are you looking for a simple, repeatable way to locate stock for your next project? Do you want to flip machine something? This easy-to-construct, easy-to-tear-down setup will help you win with your next CNC project.
LINKS:
Tiling Video: • Creating Custom Cabine...
BitZero Probe: shop.carbide3d.com/collection...
Crush It Essential Clamps: shop.carbide3d.com/collection...
Crush It Pro Clamps: shop.carbide3d.com/collection...
Zero Clearance Guides File: cutrocket.com/p/659478cdc3145/

[@protect.your.digits.creations]

How do you square up the face of the Zero Clearence guides, no matter what bit i use (even the surfacing bit) I can't get the cutter to go there.

[@CullenSimpson]

I used basically that this weekend for a series of 22 plaques. Left side fence and crush it clamps on the front and back. I should have used the stops on the front instead but I drew a line on my fence to match the corner. All 22 plaques had the same zero point and I never had to reset even though I mounted each plaque 3 times to avoid repeated bit changes. Once for a carving then for a chamfer and a third time for keyhole slots on the back. I will switch to using the stops on the front though. I love the 123 block idea as well.

[@carbide3d]

This is exactly the scenario in which this type of setup is super useful. Well done. We’re always happy to hear about our customers killing it with bulk orders.

[@CullenSimpson]

@@carbide3d Ha, it’s a bulk order but for free. Donating my time to a local Boy Scout camp. I will be branding the back in the hopes of generating some paying opportunities.

[@carbide3d]

We've all been there. That plan 100% works. Keep at it!

[@tomzahlhas5128]

I recently ordered the crush it clamps. I love how ghey work so far. Ive been using 12x12 pieces of quarter in plywood. In the video, it looks like clamps on top and bottom only are secure enough. Is that so, or should I be securing all 4 sides. Thanks.

[@carbide3d]

Your workholding needs depend on a ton of different factors. The type of stock, type of cutter, depth of cut (both in an individual pass and overall), type of cut (facing or contour cutouts) and more. Many of these relate to the amount of cutting force you intend to put on your stock. In terms of workholding force, overkill is far better than “not quite enough”. 😂

[@Love2FlyKAP]

Question: On the Bit-Zero in frame 5:37 you show zeroing out the Z-axis with it in-place. Mine will only do that if I place the Bit-Zero completely on the surface of the work and not like you did overhanging the work edges. Why is mine different?

[@carbide3d]

You are correct that when setting "Z only" the BitZero must be placed on top of your stock. However, if you select the far left option in the Probe Menu, BitZero will probe X, Y, and Z in a single probing cycle while placed on the corner of your stock.

[@MattLitkeRacing]

Fireball Tool has some nice magnetic spacers available in inch or metric

[@carbide3d]

Those Magnetic 123 Blocks and assorted spacers are very cool. Nice.

[@ront588]

So I have a question on how to do this on a Shapeoko 4 XL . Where you run the bit along the stop block to square it. How did you do that? Did you make a tool path or run the machine manually?

[@carbide3d]

You can make a pocketing or vector line toolpath to generate the cutoff of the left side edge guide.

[@chuckwilson1176]

ok... a question... on the shoe push plate example. i have to assume you are flipping the wood left to right so that means the left, right and base side of your work piece has to be all square.. correct? it seems the center would not align up at all when flipping the piece over. what is the answer to this? thanks

[@carbide3d]

Hi Chuck, The shoe design is centered in the rectangular frame, which is cut with four 90° corners in the Side A operation. Locating that frame for the B-Side operation is where the left side edge guide and clamp stops provide a "Square to the machine" alignment. If you have a perfectly square frame around your part and can position that frame square to your machine, you can cut the B-Side as a perfect mirror to the A-Side. You are flipping the frame in real life and flipping it in Carbide Create. The Zero point is dictated by the position of the design in Carbide Create and the corner of the frame via BitZero. Having those two points coincidental is the other part of the setup needed for the B-Side to mirror the A-Side. You can go through the toolpaths and layers by downloading the file here: cutrocket.com/p/65837baa81b06/

[@iwannaapple7190]

What holds down the wood? I only saw the clamps pushing the wood.

[@carbide3d]

Side clamps are good enough for some projects. For other projects, the standard vertical Essential Clamps will work. All depends on what you’re cutting.

[@iwannaapple7190]

@@carbide3d Do you mean to say that as long as the wood does not move from left to right and up and down its good to cut?

[@carbide3d]

In general, yes. However, with some stock, side clamping force will bow or twist the material. There are always unique choices to be made with each setup. As stated in the video, workholding is as diverse as your projects.

[@AcrylicMemories]

How come I cant find any videos on the 2x2 5 pro ? Everyone on youtube has the 2x4 or the 4x4 and thats cool But I would love to see a video of someone making a project on the 2x2 Regards, Rick

[@carbide3d]

Hey Rick, The beauty of the Shapeoko 5 Pro line is that everything is the same except the size. You have zero limitations on capability. Many projects require very little space, regardless of the machine's size. One thing you may find helpful is the "Tiling" capability in Carbide Create. Your 2x2 can complete projects that are far larger than its own footprint: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r2PSZXaImrOUerc

[@AcrylicMemories]

@@carbide3d Thats Great But I would just like to see the actual size in a video and maybe someone make something using it';s 2x2 full area like a sign or something As soon as I can afford one Im going to buy one Just don't really have the room for 5 fee long Best regards, rick

[@thebatmakescomics]

After the work piece is square, is it possible to manually provide an X,Y,Z center for the mill? What I mean is, if I remove the work piece and come back tomorrow, get it just as square, can I use the VFD or software to give it the exact X,Y,Z from yesterday? Or will I have to use the controller to get it as close as I can?

[@carbide3d]

The machine will retain the Zero Coordinates as set from the previous job. You can power cycle the machine and maintain the Zeros.

[@thebatmakescomics]

​@@carbide3d That's nice, but can it do what I asked?

[@carbide3d]

You can set a “User Macro” to a predefined saved position. You can save multiple Macros.

[@thebatmakescomics]

@@carbide3d so... no?

[@carbide3d]

Yes