A Tale of Two Capes -- Half-circle vs Full-circle capelets -- What's the difference?

Today we're taking a look at two capes from the late Victorian or early Edwardian period -- between the 1890s-1900s -- and seeing what the difference is in construction and drape of a half-circle versus a full-circle capelet. How are they made, what materials were they made of, what embellishments were used, and how they drape when worn.
These are two velvet capelets that have been in my antique collection for many years. If you want to see more of my antique clothing collection, check out this playlist: • Examining Antique Clot...
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[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

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[@hobbithabits]

Do i need to watch this at 4am? No. Am i going to? Gosh golly damn sure i am.

[@WatchedPlot]

Perfect timing, I have been sewing the lining onto a cloak this evening and I could do with some expert advice ;)

[@jasonmack2569]

I noticed that when the full circle cape is on the form the trim seems less misaligned. I always try to imagine the circumstances and thought process of some of the original owners in some of the items I have in my vintage collection. For the full circle cape I'm thinking it was done by a home sewer. Who, after piecing the lining, not having enough of the same velvet and doing the beading; got it finished, put it on and said, "screw it, if anyone notices they are standing too close."

[@angeladent4175]

I made a velvet cape with a huge hood and I love wearing it. It swishes and swirls and keeps me toasty warm and I can easily fit my hand knits under it. Highly recommend!

[@michellecornum5856]

Never thought of Christmas tree skirts as a cape. That's brilliant. I have seen a few that are GORGEOUS. 🤔 I don't think it's good to give me ideas like that. I already have a problem buying Christmas stuff, as is. Love this deep dive!

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

They can be had really cheaply after Christmas! 😉 I'm glad you enjoyed the video!

[@michellecornum5856]

@@LadyRebeccaFashions I did! I really liked the surprise of the extremely pieced lining! WOW!

[@teddy-3765]

Historical examples often have the velvet np ruunning that way. Probbaly because the fabric looks darker and richer with the nap runnig that way. Gotta love that bit of conspicuous consumption.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Interesting!

[@teddy-3765]

@@LadyRebeccaFashions Of course, knowing that was no help at all to me when, after completion of a velvet doubet for a friend, I noticed tht I'd cut it with the pile running up on the body but down on the collar, sleeves and skirts (they looked different shades).

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

@@teddy-3765 oh no!

[@teddy-3765]

@@LadyRebeccaFashions Luckily he wanted it to impress his girlfriend and he decided it meant she could "Rub him up the wrong way". It must have worked because I was Best Man at their wedding.

[@indy2867]

Amazing to see leather used as an interlining like this. I’m just so used to leather being a premium textile that you would show off, but here it’s basically a wind blocking layer. Just fascinating.

[@ingajohannsdottir1180]

I feel like the fur lined cape was a much more expencive garment, based on smaller beads and the direction of the velvet. It was likely made at a professional house of fashion, where the first cape could have been made by a seamstress or tailor with a smaller budget, using up 'scrap' silk for the lining. The direction of the nape of the velvet is because of the way it will catch the light. People would not have run their hands over a soft garment back then (the way we can’t resist today) just because of the way garments were treated and cleaned - it would have been seen as crude to fondle the velvet

[@cherylrosbak4092]

Love seeing the leather interlining in the one. I have a vintage winter coat with a kidskin interlining at the lower back, and I've never heard of anything like it until now. It makes such a difference for warmth that I'm not sure why more people aren't making them that way.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Wow, that's cool that you have something leather-lined too. I never would have thought of it!

[@dee-annegordon5959]

The beading and soutache details on both capes are stunning. Making a cape like these ones is definitely on my short list of projects to make (we don't talk about the long version list).

[@_earthvisitor333]

Omg the second one is absolutely stunnnning i need to do this with the fur uhh i'm in loveee

[@jeansando6849]

Capes! Love them! Now I want to spend my whole day making capes. Is that piecing interesting? And reassuring! Thank you so much for sharing these. I have never thought about lining being leather but actually it makes so much sense in terms of a lightweight, wind proof lining that would still drape. This was fascinating.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Right? I would never have thought about a leather lining either. It was fascinating to see!

[@marjonantoons7538]

Could the full circle one (without the fur) have been an evening cape? To use over an evening dress? And the more sturdy one a cape for daily usage? (I somehow just see an older lady visiting the "poor" in the winter with that cape on, a basket with food on her arm and being very grateful that after her viste, she can return to her nice, comfortable home and fire place)

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Honestly, they both could be evening capes, since they both have jet beading on them. But one is definitely more functional than the other!

[@elizabethclaiborne6461]

Opera capes are longer to keep a girl warm in an evening dress. A short cape isn’t enough coverage with a low cut, minimal sleeve dress. For the time, this isn’t evening wear, these are rich people clothes and the fashionable rich we’re wearing this stuff in the daytime. It would’ve been part of a complete outfit, the idea of separates is from sportswear and won’t come along until the Twenties.

[@WindspielArt]

When I got my training as a seamstress we got told, that you can totally chose in which direction the nap of velvet will go, but most common would be the direction you said the 2nd cape has (so smooth if you glide your hand from bottom to top). The reason was that most velvets will look darker and more luxurious that way. And I gues a cape is above your hands anyway - so you wont "pet" it that often.

[@crystalsidyll5746]

I was just going to say that. :)

[@ReneePowell]

I have a very similar roughly half circle capelet that I made of black silk velvet with faux gray wolf fur trim. It has a hood, falls to just below my elbow, and ties at the neck. I’ve worn it to Dickens fair before and love having occasions to bring it out. Capes like this rock.

[@AVery_Small-Fox]

I had a thought about the closure method for the full circle capelet, perhaps a sort of sweater-chain article was used? Like two broaches( either pins or clips, who can say) attached by a fine chain to hold the two edges and prevent the garment falling off. Then your wearer has another bit of decoration to go with a sumptuous garment, Very Fancy!

[@qienna6677]

We should all wear more capes nowadays, I am definitely in the I want to wear one club. The second style could be so flattering because it's creating shape rather than using your own shape

[@AngelavengerL]

I love when you do these deep dives on antique clothes. The beading on both of those is just so glorious. I can't even imagine the time and work it took them to do those embellishments!

[@cynthiadugan858]

I love capes! It was very cool to see these side by side.

[@carolmccormack2381]

Thank you for sharing your collection with us, especially these stunning capes - so much delicate work lots of love from Scotland xxx

[@shirliepriestley8761]

Thank you for the lovely close peek , your cape let’s are fab

[@diefledermauschen]

The nap on the fur trimmed cape is like that for a reason! I've seen it recommended in sewing manuals to point the nap up towards the face that way because it reduces the shine of the velvet. Apparently the shine was undesirable because it made the cloth look dusty.

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

The capes are so beautiful! I really think we should bring back capes. They are so lovely. Also thank you for sharing your collection. I really love the idea of collecting antique clothes but I don’t have room. It’s so much easier to collect vicariously on KZbin!

[@beamteammom5431]

I love this capes! Very beautiful!

[@thedollface57]

Waaaaaay back in highschool, one of my sewing projects was a velvet blazer. Teacher told me to cut with nap of velvet going up, like on your cape. Why? To make it stronger and therefore last longer. Didn’t make sense then-still doesn’t, but that’s what I was told.

[@bekytg9393]

Thank you for sharing these wonderful gems.

[@beckybanta126]

The history & workmanship of these are lovely. I appreciate you examining & sharing all the details of their creations. I inherited my Granny's seal skin cape (from early 1900's); it looked much like the monkey fur one. She wore hers all the time....very warm. I just couldn't wear it so passed along to my cousin who wore as well.😊

[@roxiepoe9586]

At the opening, I thought I would just watch because I always enjoy your work. Then, as it progressed, I found myself all wrapped up (yes. Pun intended) in it! This could be a road show. I'll bet some of your friends have collected pieces..... :)

[@SIC647]

It's interesting that you think that the one with fur hangs nicer, and that it would be more functional. I thought the same as you... about the other one. I have rather wide and straight shoulders, and full circle fits me better than a smaller one. And I think the bigger circle which makes the lower it "ripple" more, better shows how the velvet catches the light. It's quite interesting how people can think so differently about the same things. By the way, I don't think there is right or wrong here, just different bodies and preferred aesthetics.

[@donnacoleman4624]

I love both capes, they each have their own personalities. Seeing the cape( with the non matching neck beading) on the mannequin it looks as tho it may not have been worn completely closed. With a gap in the front, pretty frilly fru fru would be visible. As a cape over an evening dress, I think it would be quite lovely.

[@drekfletch]

And with it not being a completely full circle, perhaps it was purchased as a full circle, and then the center was trimmed and re-finished to make the exposed center as fashion changed.

[@therewillbecatswithgwenhwyfar]

❤❤❤❤ this was such a great video! Thank you for sharing these with us! And yeah the storage is the reason that I don't collect antiques.

[@kjtherrick4031]

Lovely capes. Cat's Costumery just posted her vlog in which she made a three-tiered cape circa late 19th C/early 20th C. If you made one like that (or if I did!), beading could be done just on the top tier; then, it wouldn't take an eternity!

[@lindagoesel3815]

Thanks for sharing. I make my capes from circle patterns. Love them, also rectangular shaped capes. Wear them over my coats on really cold days here in the Midwest.

[@saymyname2417]

Cape Diem! Sew one for yourself. That would be a great addition to your Victorian wardrobe!

[@midnightqueen3332]

It would be awesome to see that lighter weight one reproduced. The beadwork could easily be traced and done with pre-strung beading, adapted using say sequins or similar, then tack it down where-ever necessary. I do love the heavier weight one also, but with all the materials and layers that seem to be involved, you would have to take to, potentially, some deconstruction to get further details as to its workmanship, material, and treatment/dressage. And speaking of capes, Thank you for a slight inspiration. I had bought some christmas tree skirts with the intention of making skirts with them(but they were on sale, non refundable/returnable) and were far too short for my 36in inseam. I could very easily turn 2 into one cape, or all 4 into a massive heavy winter felt cape, and just in time for next year, at that. WAHHHOOOO!!!!

[@melissamybubbles6139]

What lovely pieces. Thank you for sharing.

[@julzb9187]

These are so lovely! I’d be interested to know if the colour has any particular significance or if that’s a common colour for a cape?

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

From what I've seen, black was the most common cape color.

[@petapendlebury9024]

Just a thought but could cape 1 be a WIP? The basting stitches, a piece not complete - unless there's thread where the beads have fallen off and no closures? Maybe the person making it was going to use a clasp because if there is a bigger gap at the front the decoration does look a bit more level even though it isn't! Or maybe they did the ultimate of - oh I don't need to try this on - and then did and realised the mistake. Oh goodness 😳 maybe it's been in the naughty corner for over a hundred years?!! 😄 they both are beautiful though and I do like the ripple effect of cape 1.

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

It's entirely possible! Or that they just decided they didn't like it/weren't happy with it, and never wore it.

[@mitsuki4098]

In was thinking they may have used a brooch or a removable clasp but there were no marks. Good point though about the naughty corner. But it also would make sense for them to wear it even then since its an expensive piece unless they were well off. Not everything they wore back then was "perfect" (unless you were rich, lol). Which makes me think of all the historical books and such with their remarks of "homespun" and "of a fine cut".

[@lajoyous1568]

And on next episode of Lady Rebecca: I'm buying a bigger house so I have room for more antique clothes. Thanks Patreon. Just kidding. I do love the capes. I wonder if someone could positively identify the fur for you... maybe a taxidermist? Anyhow have a great day ☺️

[@SusanYeske701]

Yeah, a taxidermist or a naturalist is probably a good bet for IDing the fur. Or maybe a zoologist?

[@lajoyous1568]

@@SusanYeske701 I suppose if she wants a good laugh she could send a sample to one of the Bigfoot hunting groups 🤣

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Lol, I wish I could afford a bigger house to house all my collections! 😂 Maybe someday.

[@mikeymullins5305]

Possibly the one without closure was meant to be closed with a brooch or some sort of jewelry chain ?

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

It's possible!

[@elizharber3564]

🌟

[@mitsuki4098]

I don't know why but monkey fur freaks me out too. #cringe If it was rabbit, not so much. Odd. Anyways the circle cape draping reminds me of Fleur Delacourt's school uniform. I think the drape would be prettier in a more shiny fabric like satin but that would be counterintuitive. My favorite shape is the "monkey fur" cape too. I would love to recreate that with FAUX monkey fur. Lol. Fun 4am historical shenanigans! I have been wanting to crochet tiny snowflakes and turn them into earrings to go with your snowflake jumper dress, but it's almost Valentine's day. Whoops!

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

Exactly - like, I would never want to kill any animal to use as fur, but for some reason it's easier to accept vintage furs made out of weasels, rabbits, etc, as opposed to a monkey! And hey - it's still winter in a lot of places - I think snowflakes are still totally acceptable. ☺️

[@mitsuki4098]

@@LadyRebeccaFashions I think is because apes are more human-like. Fox, wolf, beaver, big cat fur, elephant hides and such for me are a total no as well. Yet I agree with most vintage furs ie ermine, mink, weasel, etc. The mindset has changed but they still exist. Also it was economical, 100+ years ago, to use that coyote/bobcat you shot because it was getting into the chickens to keep warm #survival. I will try to get crocheting today or tomorrow. I am just north of you, so shipping/mail will be short. Lol, maybe I will get some hearts done too.

[@Hiker_who_Sews]

I got a kick out of the pieced lining. I get bits of fabric at thrift stores, so piecing happens.

[@TheSweetsherrypie]

Did someone make these for themselves? Or did they buy it from a store?

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

It's pretty much impossible to tell, unfortunately.

[@cheryldenkins1597]

Perhaps the full circle cape was made for a full figured woman. It would change the drape considerably.

[@Silverfoxx001]

the fur might be black bear or dark furred beaver

[@pammatthews9743]

I love my capes, but they make it hard to drive,getting caught in the seatbelts. The first one looks like a Christmas tree skirt. I know I see other ways to use it.

[@peepla7]

Actually I was thinking that was ermine fur. Ermine fur freaked me out once I learned what it was.... Weasel. I inherited a coat with ermine... which I won't wear cuz .....ewww!

[@LadyRebeccaFashions]

I think ermine für is a lot smoother? This is practically more like hair.

[@SusanYeske701]

Naw ermine is white with the black tip tails or a light brown, It's not one of the ones that got dyed often as far as I know because you wanted everyone to know what it was. And ermine/mink is very very soft and the fur isn't as long as that looks to be.

[@daisukidatotoro]

I have some ermine pieces that were part of a collar on an antique coat. Ermine is shorter and very smooth and dense. It can get sparse from age and over-petting, but never straggly." I agree with Rebecca that the edging is more like "hair."

[@sannabengtsson3044]

Den look like inside. Inside mental sonen using inside the house After one o'clock am outside