A very long video explaining how I converted a Wrenn loco from DC to DCC. Please read description.

[@garym1550]

It's a shame that lot of the action was being done off screen. so, unlike those below I can not say well done. Quantity does not replace quality.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thank you for your comment Gary but I think that once you produce your first video on your channel of a job that takes nearly 2 hours to complete then 100% of your work is in shot on the camera and that you would have learnt from my mistakes. ………..Graham

[@garthjunor3027]

It doesn't have to

[@toki_-_wartooth]

what a pointless comment, no one forced you to watch this FREE instructional video. Graham took his time to share his knowledge, now go and troll somewhere else

[@MalcolmCrabbe]

@@GrahamFoulston Couldn't have said it better Graham. I've just converted an old Poole made Graham Farish 08 shunter to DCC (at least you had plenty of space to work with !). I attempted to document the process, but in the process of having to get the camera in a position that my hands didn't obscure what I was doing, getting the lighting right so it was clear to see the task in hand was just frustrating, so I didn't bother, but just uploaded the end result of it running. So I tip my hat to you for your perseverance and producing an informative video.... something Gary M has yet to do on his channel.

[@matthewsnowdenshunterguy3352]

See, look how pleasent she looks going round, doesnt look below par or out of place. So many people disregard the old stuff, its a shame. Well played 👏🏻

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thanks Matthew and totally agree with you, it’s a real pleasure seeing this trundling around the layout and I’m so pleased that I did this, it gave me a huge amount of enjoyment converting this yet still retaining the original look to it. I like the old stuff to be honest, they are something I can relate to which is an added bonus for me. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@ModelTrainOutsider]

Popped it up on the big screen, watched and listened while doing my Saturday morning rituals. Awesome job! Quite educational and fun to watch the process. Very cool to bring the classic back to full, smooth running... beautiful classic!

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thank you very much for those kind words Anthony and I hope you got all your chores done! 😂. It’s nice to see it running on Lakeside after all that. Cheers for now mate. ………….Graham

[@jamesgilbart2672]

Interesting conversion! I adapted a Wrenn West Country by fitting a sleeve for the previously uninsulated brush and spring to isolate them from the chassis. The only difficult bit was finding some plastic tube that was the right fit. It worked OK on DCC.

[@markallen1951]

No need to apologise for the length of the video, i enjoyed it and learnt a lot. Look forward to the next one as always, keep up the good work!

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thank you for the kind comment Mark, it’s greatly appreciated and I’m pleased that you learnt from it too. Cheers for now mate. ………..Graham

[@Rock_God]

I really enjoyed watching the whole video, this morning, Graham. Many times, I was taken to back in the day. When you were talking of the time that things were made to be maintained by the owner, I was reminded of an old ‘Beezer’ I owned which had a toolkit under the seat. It was said that you could strip down the whole bike, engine and gearbox (never tried it) with what was in that kit. However, in those days, a lot of men were employed in engineering and had the skills to carry out such work. Hearing your use of correct engineering nomenclature, and your methodology, you clearly come from an engineering background. Being old school, I still draw sketches of assemblies unless my son is about, as he usually gives me a look, grabs my phone and, like you, takes photos. Magnets and the use of keepers took me back too. Every schoolboy learned about magnets and keepers. I doubt that is taught in schools now. Good to see it run on the rolling road and on the layout too. It should improve with running in. Well done, mate! Best, Jason.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi Jason and thank you for those very kind words in you comment, they’re greatly appreciated. I totally agree with you that many men and boys back in the day were trained as engineers and I was one of them, I started work in 1965 on a 5 year apprenticeship and studied for a City & Guilds Mechanical Engineering Technician certificate - hardly anyone went to university in those days, just college! Since the age of about 7 I was always interested in engineering and would help my dad work on his car and so this is always of interest to me - to see how things work, or not as the case may be! 😂 I always get a thrill to see something work after I’ve pulled it apart and it works again and this little loco is no exception apart from the more modern technology it uses now which to me makes it even more interesting. This video won’t be for everyone, I know that but I hope that it will give a small number of people the knowledge to do something similar. Cheers for now my friend and take care. …………. Graham

[@Rock_God]

@@GrahamFoulston You must be a bit older than me, Graham, as I started my apprenticeship in 1967, originally in Electronics but the company made me cover mechanical Engineering too. As you say, most did not go to university, but those that did got degrees in subject that supported their career choice rather than a degree in origami or football. 😂 I was lucky to get on a National Certificate Course and ended up with an HND, but I was later sponsored by the company I worked for to take a BSc Hons in Pure Mathematics. As a child I pulled all my tin cars and toys apart leading my father to believe that I was destructive, where as, I was curious as to how things worked. It is a shame that many of today’s young men are not interested in Engineering as a career. Enjoy your weekend. Best, Jason.

[@GrahamFoulston]

@@Rock_God I’m 73 in a couple of months time so probably not a lot older than your good self. I was offered a place to go onto ONC then HNC but declined as I was seeing more interest in Graphic Design and Technical Illustration which is where I eventually ended up, so more years at college studying to become a Technical Illustrator which I loved because it combines my natural drawing ability with engineering - a perfect marriage for a career for me and I did that right up until I retired about 6 years ago.

[@henrybest4057]

@@GrahamFoulston Not all of us trained as engineers, but many of us had Meccano sets, which were an introduction to basic engineering.

[@GrahamFoulston]

@@henrybest4057 True and I also had a Meccano set which I loved and made many things with it and kept it for years, adding to it when I could. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@LetsGo_41]

Excellent project that you've completed Graham. Pleased, it went well and you've got a happy little runner going now. Looking forward to seeing it going round Lake Side in the future.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Many thanks Tim, it makes it all worthwhile seeing the end result of it running happily around the layout and hopefully there will be a few more Wrenn locos running on it too but obviously without a huge long video accompanying it! 😂😂. Cheers for now mate. ……….. Graham

[@remmington-allumvidoes7266]

I watched the whole video. Great to see success that the old is able to mix with the new tech. I have the BR black 2-6-4 Wrenn, and it runs well. I don't have DCC so I'm not planning any major conversion, but good for you to achieve what you wanted. A BIG thumbs up..!!!

[@GrahamFoulston]

Many thanks Les for your comment and it’s greatly appreciated. Pleased that you managed to watch it too. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@ianlunt7833]

Excellent video Graham,its a shame some people have to write drivel and negativity in this manner. For me and I guess many others who gain such a lot vicariously from your videos ,all I can say is well done,you are a true gent and thank you. Ian

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thank you so much for the comment Ian and also the understanding too. I’m not a professional video maker and so when I do these I’m know I’m going to screw up in places but I hopefully show (in this case) enough to help others make informed decisions as to whether they want to do something like this and if so, enough information is there from this for them to do so. It seems that dammed if I do and dammed if I don’t, I’m just going to have to accept criticism of some sort no matter what I do on KZbin and be done with it, as long as I get the result I want then that’s the main thing and bugger the moaners! Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@DavidLee-q4x]

Good morning Graham I like your video very much but I’m enquiring where do you get the inserts for the brushes as I’ve got to alter my Wrenn engines, also the drill sizes please I hope you can help me many thanks, David Lee 😅

[@GrahamFoulston]

@@DavidLee-q4x Hi David, I 3D printed the inserts but to be honest, any plastic type of tubing would be ok as long as the brushes fit snugly into the inside of the tubing plus of course the contact spring - the tubing you use will tell you what drill bit to use, the metal you drill into is quite soft so you shouldn’t have any issues as long as you make sure the drill bit doesn’t bind in the hole so keep clearing any swarf. Hope that helps a little. Cheers for now. ………..Graham

[@rogerwindsor2130]

Thank you Graham. Just got my 1st Wrenn loco. Which I will dcc convert, 4.6.2 West Country Southern.

[@flippop101]

I love your channel and have a soft spot for models made of metal. Really great work, and nice to see a Wrenn model given a new lease of life!

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thanks for the comment Philip and I agree, I love these old Wrenn locos too and they bring back many a memory for me plus it gives it a chance to run on the layout again rather than stuck in a display case gathering dust. Cheers for now mate. ………..Graham

[@normanrowe2831]

Hi ya Graham, I had to wait until I could carve out the time to watch all 5 parts. Nicely done Graham. Great results. During the test run on Lakeside you could actually hear and feel the weight of that beast. I look forward to future renovations of older locos. See ya next time. Take care.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi Norman and I agree with you about hearing and feeling the weight of that loco going round, it’s certainly a heavy piece of metal !! I’m on the look out for another to do now although I think this time I will make it easier on myself and not buy a mint condition loco so I don’t have to swap over a chassis which was the real time taker. So watch this space as they say. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@2010ditta]

Bravo Graham, well done. An epic video with a happy ending. It looks great with its green coaches. All the best.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Many thanks Tim and you wouldn’t think that this was the age it is the way it was running on Lakeside, I’m so pleased with this and as you say it looks great hauling those Southern green coaches too. 👍🏻. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@kellypaws]

Graham, thank you for the video. I would implore you to consider two things to make your soldering much easier. 1. Flux. More flux. And flux. 2. Leaded solder. Unleaded silver solder is fine for people who solder day in day out, where the risks are significant. For the hobbyist, put silver solder in the bin, where it richly deserves to be. It's dire. And you probably need an iron with a bit more wattage. Weller is good.

[@chapelhousemodelrailway1700]

Hi Graham, I really enjoyed this video. Glad to see that somebody has done this and proving it can be done, and that the loco runs well. Thanks for showing how to do it! Regards Mike.

[@GrahamFoulston]

No problems Mike and I’m pleased that you enjoyed the video, I was a bit wary of the length of the video putting folk off but to be honest it was the only way I could show the whole procedure. She runs like a dream now so that’s the main thing and hopefully this will encourage people to maybe buy cheaper, better quality locos than the offerings we are getting at the moment from a certain manufacturer! Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@trainmanbob]

Fantastic video Graham. some years ago as I was changing rom OO to N the price of Wrenn locos skyrocketed. I put 5 up for sale mint boxed and they fetched over £1000 a piece!! They were in their time far superior to anything that was on offer. I assume that your iron is not temperature controlled as it seems to me you are not generating enough heat. I am rewiring my layout (strictly DC) and I have just popped 400 wires into D Type connectors at 380 degrees. Mine is however temp. controlled so I can go very low for white metal too. That being said, just like you I most certainly have welders fingers not solderers so I use an extremely fine nosed pair of spring loaded pliers. I also am not fond of exacto products. They wear out quickly and I have 4 pairs shatter when cutting N Gauge track. Thanks again Graham. Cheers, Bob

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi Bob and thanks for the comment. Yes, I really do need to get a decent soldering iron, it was plain to see that for anything above tinning a bit of wire then my existing iron is useless so it’s top priority now to get a decent temperature controlled iron especially as I think I will be doing more jobs like this. Yes, these Wrenn locos can fetch a few pounds, especially the older, rarer models but I’m aiming for ones which are about £100 each and there are some decent ones about for that sort of money which is how much this one cost me - good value for money I think in comparison to todays offerings from a certain manufacturer! Cheers for now mate. ………..Graham

[@thespookdeville5112]

Well that took a lot of time as I'm lay in bed this Sunday afternoon. Really enjoyed it, thank you for all you do .Rodge David kidderminster uk 🇬🇧

[@thespookdeville5112]

I'm lay in bed because I'm ill, not being lazy

[@seangraham2879]

Awesome video Graham loved every minute of it. I enjoy relaxing and watching your channel and learning new things thank you so very much and god bless Graham you're an amazing person Love the little stories you tell in between while working on a project makes the video even better

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thank you so much for those kind words Sean, as always, they are greatly appreciated sir and so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I was a bit wary about the length of the video but breaking it down into chapters helped should folk not want to view it in one hit which I can understand. Anyway, it all turned out good so that’s the main thing. Cheers for now mate. ………..Graham

[@michaeljamesdenniss2716]

Great video these locomotives where Great in my youth well done Mike

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thank you Mike for the comment and yes, like many of us, we can remember seeing or having some of these older locos and I find them very attractive in their crudeness in comparison to their modern counterparts. I will be increasing my Wrenn collection as time goes by and converting each one to run on Lakeside, I won’t however be doing anymore one and a half hour videos though! 😂. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@alexmorgan2296]

Amazing knowledge and skill (wish I could solder like that!) and very informative. Worth every minute of watching time. Many thanks for sharing.

[@TATICMOOR]

Magic Graham, it was great seeing the work that went into doing this conversion to DCC. it shows all things are possible, if one sets their mind to it and this is a good example of that focused mind to update this classic old loco. The only thing about this film Graham, was that the main work was off screen as the camera wasn't angled correctly to see all the action. Still a great project and you explained each step well as you went through the stripping and upgrading of the parts. Thanks for sharing as usual my friend and helping me get a lazy Sunday afternoon over during this last hour and a half.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi John and thanks for the comment. You are the second person to mention about the main work being off camera. I think it was because I had it zoomed in too close (to give a better idea) so if I moved the chassis a little bit then it became out of shot. I think to that end then I will not do anymore of these type of videos, I’m obviously not good enough to do this sort of video so I will stop it from now on. But thanks anyway, at least I know where I stand. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@TATICMOOR]

@@GrahamFoulstonNo don't be giving up on doing these type of films as they are informative. They show how the items are put together and how to replace or upgrade them etc. I enjoyed watching this Graham, just that the camera wasn't in frame with what you were doing. All it would take is to zoom out a bit or reposition the camera a tad. Otherwise, it was a splendid video of this vintage loco conversion to DCC. I was also a joy to see it working and running around Lakeside after it was all completed.

[@sparkshot]

@Graham: is it possible for you to do similar to what I did in some of my vids? I angle the phone camera in a selfue stick bodged to apole, then I put the camera in front of me. The viewer essentially gets an almost 1st person perspective and I can see what they see too. No wirries if bot, just thought the idea may help, some vids on my chanbel you can see the effect in the Thumbbails even. I'vw not finished watching your video yet so will refrain from commenting on it yet. So good so far though. :)

[@sparkshot]

I can't edit out the typo's until I'm on another browser or device. Will get to it though.

[@TATICMOOR]

@@GrahamFoulston Graham I hope you are not angry with me as I wasn't being nasty or anything about it in my comment to you. I hate to think I have offended you, which wasn't my intention. That it was just down to me not being able to see the full actions of you working on the modification of this loco.

[@theangelsmodellingandrailways]

A total success indeed Graham, a very enjoyable watch, glad you kept the video all in one part. Impressive modelling mate, you've knocked it outta the park, again. A beautiful looking loco, runs like a swiss watch, very nicely done. All the best n take care, look forward to seeing what loco you do next. Brian @ The Angels

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thank you Brian for those very kind and complimentary words, they really are greatly appreciated. It’s certainly convinced me to do a few more attractive Wrenn locos in the future and it’s also fun hunting down suitable candidates too. Cheers for now mate. ………..Graham

[@ralphwest8156]

Absolutely cracking job Graham ' ...loved the video length you and Lakeside are very entertaining, I think 'Sam' will enjoy the decoder fitting - right up his street' ...looking forward to the next one, take care.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thanks for the comment Ralph and much appreciated sir. I’m pleased you were ok with the video length, I know some folk won’t be but there wasn’t much I could do about that given the content. I was so pleased to see it running around on Lakeside, it made it all the worthwhile. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@garthjunor3027]

I am not surprised you found soldering a bit of a challenge. I was with you and feeling the same while belting along on a regional train, phone in hand, which doubled the stress

[@durhamranger988]

Excellent job Graham. The loco really looks at home on Lakeside.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thank you David and you are right, she does look quite at home now and something I wasn’t sure I could initially do but I’m glad I gave it my best shot, I think it looks lovely going round Lakeside and has given me confidence in doing another. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@onnomulder9775]

Awesome how to Graham!!! Thanks for sharing this video! Cheers Onno.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Not a problem Onno and so pleased that you enjoyed it. Cheers for now mate. ………….Graham

[@johnoneill5661]

Great video long or not it’s great because it shows how you can convert your older locos to DCC and bring them up to date so they can run with the newer stuff and not be condemned to the back of the cupboard 👍👍👍

[@GrahamFoulston]

Indeed John and that was exactly the reason why I wanted to do this particular one. I have converted a few old Hornby locos in the past but never a Wrenn and so this was a good starting point. If it all failed then there was no problem because I could revert back to the original DC chassis I still have. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@TONYNORTHEASTERN]

Excellent video Graham, i fully sympathsize with you on the quality of the new models from curtain manufactures. but one thing this video has shown me that older models are far better built and more reliable...as always im enjoying your videos Tony

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi Tony and many thanks for the comment, these older locos are certainly better built but are obviously much cruder in their appearance but to be honest, I like that. I can handle these locos without the fear of something breaking or falling off!! 😂. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@1maico1]

@@GrahamFoulston I've fitted decoders to a couple of my old German Trix locos and they run smoother at crawl speeds. Does this Wrenn run better DCC than DC? I have a Wrenn Castle class that runs OK but was never great at gentle starts.

[@martinpattison1567]

It is your Loco and your layout. What you do is up to you and nobody else. How would I know that that Engine is DCC or DC from looking at it of course I would not. I am not a DCC or a Southern fan, but I still found this video very interesting to watch. I have an old Triang S Type saddle Tanker. The wheels have been changed. (So that it can run on modern track) I have given it a new heart and named it. I still have the original one I was given for my 6th birthday and to this day it is still sitting in its box in my dad's loft. Martin. (Thailand)

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi Martin and thanks for the comment, I certainly think that these older Wrenn locos have a place on a layout and are a good alternative to the very expensive new stock. It’s great that you still have your original from when you were 6 years old - that’s fabulous. I still have a couple of mine my dad bought me back in the 1950’s although they are old Hornby - maybe even Hornby-Triang and they run on Lakeside too after being converted to DCC. Cheers for now mate. ………….Graham

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Great job Graham, nice to see this classic running on DCC

[@GrahamFoulston]

Many thanks John, it was a great job to do and quite challenging at times too but I got it done and I’m pleased to see it running on Lakeside. Cheers for now mate. ……….Graham

[@TheDiomedef16]

Wow! That is some conversion, very successful too. She may be old and not the prettiest anymore, but she looks a treat on Lakeside. A few more of that vintage and you will have a proper Gert and Lil revival railway.

[@barryturner2916]

Well done Graham, looks and runs well. Its great satisfaction when you achieve the end result you have. As they say "there's life in the old dog yet" (lol) what a mammoth video didn't realise until I got to the end how long it was (wow) take care and please stay safe..

[@GrahamFoulston]

Many thanks Barry and yes, I’m very sorry for the length of the video but to be honest, any more editing out would have made it pointless. This was intended for folk who may want to do the same for the older locos rather than for entertainment value. I did put chapters in so that it could be skipped easily onto the next chapter. But at the end you can see how well she ran on the layout and has bought back into service an old loco DC loco onto a DCC layout which was really the whole point of the video. Cheers for now mate. ……….. Graham

[@barryturner2916]

@@GrahamFoulston Hi Graham please don't think I was complaining, I was surprised at the length and the amount of effort you guys put in to allow us to view..

[@mickeybarrass3625]

Well Graham. Where do.i begin. I'm not a modeller of any type but I love watching the various videos available by yourself and many others. I literally never moved when I watched this. The skills and knowledge you guys show is amazing. I could've quite easily took that apart but not a hope of putting it back together nevermind convert it. I doff my cap Graham. I was terrified you'd have a spare screw at the end. Also, using the super glue, what happens when you need to change the brushes. Im in no way qualified to know if this is the right answer but could the wobble be and imbalance in the wheels or not? I have no clue but thought I'd ask. Thank you for sharing Graham. Very insightful and again massive praise for your skills.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi Mickey and thank you for the comment. The superglue is is just holding the brush retainer in place lightly so a quick twist and it comes away - I know because I tried it! The trick my dad taught me was to put back all nuts and bolts from where they came from when taking things apart, that way you never have anything left over as you can readily see what nut, screw or washer goes where. I can never understand why some folk put all the nuts and bolts into a container for safe keeping - just put them where they came from, it makes life so much easier in the long run. Cheers for now mate. ………..Graham

[@andrewvenn3021]

Hello Graham, cracking video, I was going to watch a chapter at a time but ended up doing the whole thing in one hit. A couple of queries, 1, would it not have been easier to wire the decoder direct rather than a socket to reduce the amount of wire to tidy and 2, that was an awful amount of work just to get white lining on the cylinder block, would transfers not have been easier. I am sure you have your reasons and you enjoyed doing it which, after all, is what this hobby is all about in the end.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi Andrew and many thanks for the comment. Both of your questions relate to “easier” and you are absolutely correct in both cases - it would have been easier, but would not have been what I wanted. As regards the decoder, I wanted the opportunity to swap the decoder out at a later stage for maybe a sound decoder or even just a different one, doing it this way only took a little longer and I have cut the remaining four wires down to a manageable length so as to leave more room, if it were just hard wired then I would have to unsolder each of the four wires first. As for the lining on the cylinder blocks then I think that if I persevered with removing them then that would have been a lot less time but I just didn’t want to break anything but the most important thing is that I can put everything back into the original chassis and still have an original mint loco. I did think about all these things before going the route I did and although what you suggest would have been easier - it wouldn’t have been the correct way (in my minds eye) or do it but yes, it could have been done that way. I hope that I have explained why I did it this way, I’m not saying I’m right by any means but I felt happier doing it this way. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@rogerwindsor2130]

Tip for you Graham, always test with a dc blanking plug in place of decoder 1st, That way any shorts will show up. without blowing a decoder. Then with it all ok . Plug dcc decoder in place,

[@lesbird2074]

Just got around to watching this. While I don't intend converting to DCC myself, I found the video very interesting. Don't pay any attention to the critics, it's your locomotive so you have every right to modify it. As an aside, have you thought of investing in a set of helping hands? I have one with a magnifying lens and it's a great help when soldering small items. Saves you burning your fingers too!

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi Les and thank you for your comment. I do have a set of helping hands but didn’t think of using it to be honest but I should have done in a few places - I will remember to do that on the next conversion! Cheers for now mate. ……….. Graham

[@LeeGlin]

Brilliant video mate, thank you for filming it, I appreciate it, I don't care how long or short your videos are, you do a wonderful job, love watching them and you give me so much inspiration with each and every video you do, keep up the good work, take care mate and I look forward to the next one 🙂🙂

[@LeeGlin]

Any chance that you could weigh it mate would love to know how much it weighs, cheers mate

[@andrewstevenson5449]

Success! Congratulations, Graham. Though I have to admit that I did wince slightly at some of the soldering work. 😉 Maybe time for a new soldering iron (and wire cutters) before you bring your childhood fleet into the 21st century? I didn't understand why you had to remove all the wheels. Was there something in/on/around the wheels that you needed to insulate?

[@GrahamFoulston]

Well you will be pleased to know Andrew that I now have a new soldering station and I also found my cutters (snips) so all good to go now! I had to remove the wheel set as I wanted to get the cylinder blocks off to match the loco but the mechanism seemed to be firmly attached to the wheels, so rather break anything then I just transferred the whole lot as a complete assembly. Hope that helps. Cheers for now mate. ………..Graham

[@toniandbazduffy9703]

Well done Graham. It's a lovely loco. I also like wrenn locos. Today's models have detail but a lot of them haven't quality like that loco. I prefer quality. Nice video and thanks for sharing. Take care basil.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thank you for the kind comment Basil and much appreciated too. You hit the nail on the head there my friend, not so much detail as you say but the build quality is right up there - this thing is not going to break very easily and with some normal servicing should last me for years to come. 👍🏻. Cheers for now mate. ………….Graham

[@johnmcmunn3827]

GREAT Overview Graham ... :) :) :) A two cuppa and 4 choco biscuit ... most enjoyable...cheers mate

[@GrahamFoulston]

You greedy sod John!! 😂😂😂 But having said that then that’s just about what I would drink and eat too! 😉. Glad you enjoyed the video though, that’s the main thing! 👍🏻👍🏻. Cheers for now mate. …………. Graham

[@sparkshot]

Ok watched it all, was interesting. The camera complaints were not as bad as impressions created. I've often fancied a Wrenn myself as I like bomb proof heavy metal engineering, however, as I'm using Code 75 track n points so am rather haprehensive risking it sadly. Don't really want to be replacing wheels. I liked your shots of it running on the layout, looked good and the top of the valve gear is impressive considering it moves properly. Most RTR loco's today don't even bother animating that piece. Good vid. Some folks prefer a long run time so I wouldn't worry about it, can't please them all!

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thank you for the comment my friend, that’s greatly appreciated. It is a palaver swapping over wheelsets especially getting the quartering correct so you are probably right in not touching that side of it. The valve gear on this particular loco is quite complex when looking at it closely and is a great bit of engineering considering the age of it. You’re right, I can’t please everyone, there will always be someone moaning about something but if I took notice of everything was said then I wouldn’t get anything done! Cheers for now mate. …………. Graham

[@davidstrains4910]

Great video on DCCing a wrenn locomotive graham, from the looks of it it must have taken a very long time to figure out how to do this, this is one reason why I’m not immediately going dcc, I have a lot of old locomotives that would all require hardwiring in order to dcc them.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi David and yes, I did have a fair amount of thinking time, not so much on how it could be done but more to do with being able to do it and still retain the original chassis without destroying it - hence the second sacrificial chassis, the original chassis is now wrapped up and ready to be put back into the loco should I wish to take it back to DC and sell on as an original mint DC loco. If I wasn’t too bothered about keep the originality then this would have been so much easier. Cheers for now mate. ………..Graham

[@2H80vids]

The only time I thought the Southern tank looked a wee bit crude was in the stationary shot near the end. The rods/valve gear looked a bit clumsy there but, when it was running, I thought it looked fine, as did the weathered, black one. You've done well, figuring out how to do the conversion and, having proved the concept, you can pick and chooe which other models you want to add to the Lakeside fleet.😁👍 You lost me at one point though; why did the chassis need to be swapped? If I followed the process properly, you've used the mint body, the donor chassis and the mint wheelsets. What's the difference between the two wheelsets? One other thing I wondered about: what hauled the Southern coaches previously? I don't remember seeing a Southern loco on Lakeside. I'm guessing the coaches are slightly older than most of the Lakeside stock but they looked great behind the big tank. When we see older stock on KZbin layouts, they tend to be "train set" style set-ups, rather than highly scenic model railways. I'm really looking forward to seeing you develop this. With the skill/understanding you've shown with this conversion, you should be able to repair "less-than-mint" locos, non-runners even, which can be picked-up on eBay for a fraction of the cost of anything new. Sorry for such a long, rambling comment but, under a ninety minute video, it doesn't seem so long.😁👍

[@GrahamFoulston]

Many thanks for the comment my friend and I really don’t mind how long comments are. For me, the crudeness is part of the attraction, just like a fully detailed modern loco is also attractive to me but in a different way. The clumsy looking valve gear is what I remember as a kid but to me it was a perfect representation of how they were and I think that’s the difference - our Dinky cars and trains were merely representations of what was real but as kids back in those days then that was fine for us, that’s all we needed to get hours of fun playing with them. Today then because of modern manufacturing processes then we can make them more lifelike than back in the 1950’s and we’re treated as toys rather than models. The only reason I swapped the wheel sets over was that I needed the correct colour cylinders which I couldn’t remove independently from the valve gear without fear of breaking them so I just swapped the whole lot over. By buying a not so mint loco then a lot of this work would be negated and just work on the motor itself would be required to convert to DCC, which is the route I’m taking now. So no need to buy a sacrificial chassis, I will just do a straightforward conversion on the existing, not so mint loco. I hope that all makes sense. Cheers for now mate. ……….. Graham

[@2H80vids]

@@GrahamFoulston Ah. I saw someone mentioned the cylinders in the comments but it never dawned on me that Wrenn made the 2-6-4s in a range of liveries. So the donor wasn't a Southern machine? Duh, I get it now.😂

[@henrybest4057]

Just as a FYI if you need any spares. I was missing a screw from one of my Dublo/Wrenn locos. Turns out that its a standard 4BA thread, so I think that the smaller screws on your loco will also be 4BA and suspect that the larger, magnet, screw and nut are 2BA.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thanks Henry for that information. These were all made in the uk and at the time we hadn’t gone over to the metric system and you are quite correct in that these screws and nuts would have been mainly BA threads. The kit car I am building is based on an old Triumph Spitfire which is primarily all BSF threads - Ah, the good old days eh! 😉. Cheers for now mate. ………..Graham

[@wally1022]

Absolutely great :) you know you have me second guessing my decision to stay with DC or convert to DCC Mmmmm! I am happy for you to achieve what you set out to do :). As for those who say you are destroying a classic locomotive BLAAAH! you are bringing classics into the 21st century so young un's can enjoy the old loco's that we grew up with. Good onya Mate! Cheers from down under

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi mate and thanks for the comment, I’ve only had a couple of folk saying that but they just didn’t get what I was doing, they seemed to completely ignore the fact that I was doing this on a spare chassis and keeping the original one in tack - never mind, their loss not mine! 😂. At least I can now have a 50+ year old loco running on the layout and not tucked away in a display case gathering dust! Cheers for now mate. ………..Graham

[@meme-ei9gj]

Enjoyed this immensely, very well done.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thank you my friend and that’s greatly appreciated too! 👍🏻. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@rongoodwin4053]

Great job, a master at work.

[@GrahamFoulston]

I wouldn’t go as far as Master Ron but thank you anyway sir, that’s greatly appreciated. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@petert9749]

It seems that the pattern makers at Hornby Dublo were true artists, though we must remember that the Chinese folk who do so well, do that well having never seen the real thing. Amazing. Wrenn works very well, and the apparent coarseness is for me illusory, as the model exists as a whole. You stimulated in me three ideas which you might or might not like. Yes, get rid of that wobble. On the rolling road, as the speed increased from dead slow a limp seemed? to appear. Have a look at the quartering. We have to get this stuff running like Swiss watches or we can't annoy the modern folk. If you can find an old Unimat in reasonable condition it might help to replace damaged insulators, and perhaps help make fixtures for putting wheels back on (see Pendlenton in MRJ). Second: sleeving the magnet end insulator with brass would save using the brush spring from carrying driving current and losing its tension from heating. From memory Dublo sleeved their insulated brush, and probably for that reason. Finally, why worry about 'donor' mechs to avoid irreversible changes to 'good' locos? Perhaps put the funds otherwise used into that second hand lathe, and not worrying. Alternatively, if you pick up Hornby Dublo or Wrenn 'junkers' that still run, the issue recedes, and probably so will the withering criticism. Repainting resplendent without spending millions is not hard. I have found most Wrenn/HD locos have little structural wear. That's not a rule, but it is my experience. Doing something really special with a 'junker' is an experience that takes you to where you were not before. For brushes and things try MKN digital. David has forgotten more than the rest of us ever knew (specially me). Have a look at his servide manual. Have a look at the Ringfields to see if the motors can be isolated from the chassis. If so, one day you will get around to converting a Castle. Its running qualities will bowl you over - my two are object lessons. Use it to annoy the purists. Triang are also good starting points. Sometimes I leave a few gentle prods on Utube; haven't been ticked off too much yet...... You are set for some REAL fun, and yes, some frustration along the way. Thanks for sharing it all, and on condition you don't let the hatchet brigade worry you, this is cheap health insurance. Hope this reads OK: Peter

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi Peter and thanks for the comment, Blimey, where do I start? 😂😂. Ok, first thing is that I have already solved the wheel wobble doing two things, replacing a plastic wheel insulator and a little adjustment on the quartering a tiny amount resolved that situation. I have since bought three more Wrenn locos but this time not minters so I can do what I like to them so this will not only save me money but a lot of time as well, just a straight forward conversion from DC to DCC. When 3D printed the insulator then I printed more than one out so I have several now that I can use, this worked well for me and will use them on my next conversion. As a technical illustrator and graphic designer then I’m not afraid to pick up a brush or an air brush and have done so many times during my brief history in model railways so if something needs a little paint then that’s not a problem. I have also built two kits from scratch, one which was an O gauge Class 50 where I fitted sound and smoke coming out through the roof exhaust, so again, I’m not phased by doing something like that. On my existing layout I have installed a Faller road system plus a Magnorail road system with animated push bikes and a fully working DCC operating lift in the main platform building - all scratch built. All I’m saying Peter is that I’m not afraid to experiment and I believe I have the skill to do more Wrenn conversions but this time it will be on non mint locos which will save a lot of time. Cheers for now mate. 😉👍🏻. ……….Graham

[@petert9749]

@@GrahamFoulston ‘Thanks for that Graham. As you say: ‘Where do I/we start?’ There is a crippling limit to what can be stated on a public forum, so please understand the following to be friendly and short; not in the spirit of telling you how to do things. Wrenn/HD insulated the insulated brush from the loco frame on your loco by default. Have a look at the brush/commutator from the side and note the brass tubing/sleeve that holds and stabilises the brushes near the commutator. At the connection end note the hefty wire soldered to the plug that slides into that tubing and holds all by pressing on the brush springs. If my analysis is correct, Hornby Dublo have gone to great lengths to power the brushes through the plug and sleeve, and NOT by making the springs carry current. Again: if my analysis is correct, this really matters. Consider sleeving your insulating bush to the same effect. Might also be an idea to contact the manufacturer of the resin forming your bush and ask re heat and toxins. As the magnets weaken the current through the springs will cause heat and your springs are sleeved by that resin. Have a look at kzbin.info/www/bejne/e2a6YauvZ7iAr68 (Why hasn''t that turned blue?) After waxing lyrical over the ringfield ‘Castle’, I found a few minutes to look at the motor. Both brushes have non-ferrous metal sleeves, and one is in a fibre insulating bush/sleeve (what is the difference between a bush and a sleeve?). Motor isolation for DKK is almost certainly possible on these motors, but not something for a migraine day. Again: avoid using the springs to carry current or do anything else that heats them up - or heats anything else. The motor has plenty of square faces for mounting in a drill press for boring out the sleeve holes. Remember: we are interfering with factory settings. I repeat: ‘not for a migraine day’. As I see it, and I may be wrong (we all have a right to be wrong), unless multi-loco control is needed, the only pressing advantage of digital is the better starting performance of the square wave form of the power output. Don Hansen’s throttle described in Kalmbach ‘Model Railroader June or July 1975 has a pulse function I have been using for years to the same end. NO motor isolation needed. As with all pulse there is heat generation, but the consensus seems to be on old blacksmith motors like this it is not a worry. Just remag occasionally; I have found remag not needed more often than usual and have not noticed heat build up. You only need the pulse and main drive functions of the throttle, and a good electronics shop will likely find substitutes for any out of production components - it will take them five minutes. The trains are started on pulse and as they get under way the pulse is turned down as the smooth DC signal is advanced. Same in reverse for stopping. For me, it has worked brilliantly; and operation on the Wrenn makes most other layouts I have seen look silly. All so simple really. It works for me so I point it out rather than recommend it (your situation might be different). Yes, there are challenges isolating these motors for DKK; but they are not insurmountable and not restricted to Wrenn/HD. But in the end the result is superb. After Wrenn you will likely never buy a plastic ‘thing’ again. Always a pleasure Graham. Remember I am not an expert and claim the right to be well meaning and wrong, but have been wielding a screwdriver for a long time. ‘By George’ those Castles run well! As ever, hope this reads OK: Peter

[@Blairgowrie_Forest_Railway]

If you do another conversion like this would you consider using a sound decoder?

[@GrahamFoulston]

Yes, absolutely, I will Nick a spare sound decoder from something else just to try it first and if it works ok then I will get one for it. Cheers for now mate. ………..Graham

[@maltnz]

I am a bit worried about that back brush holder putting excess pressure on the brush. It is much closer to the chassis than the front one ? Otherwise great job and thanks for the video.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi mate and don’t be too worried about too much pressure on that brush, if you noticed I had put a 2mm flange on the 3D printed insert to bring the end cap out and so there is not as much pressure there as you think there is. In the video you see me check the freeness of the commutator so as far as I’m concerned then there is no undue extra pressure on that rear brush. I hope that helps. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@DavidLee-q4x]

Thank you David

[@steveoram7527]

Really enjoyed your video. I did not find the video to long very very informative.

[@busterboy7505]

Well done Graham, sounds like you are one very happy gentleman, may there be more Wrenns on lakeside, do you think you could ever have sound on a Wrenn.? 👍👍.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thank you for the comment and yes, I am very happy indeed, I wasn’t initially sure if this could be done but I’m glad now that I made the decision to give it a go. It runs very sweetly on the layout and doesn’t look too much out of place. I think there’s a very good chance that I could fit sound into it, I may swap a decoder from an existing sound decoder into it just to see if it works, if it does then I will probably end up buying a sound decoder for it - we shall see. Cheers for now mate. ……….Graham

[@ollychap1985]

Looks like a great locomotive for your layout. well done 👍 Can I ask how much was the magnetiser?

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi Oliver and thank you for the comment. The re-magnetiser was just over £130 but when you consider the cost of sending a loco off to be done then I’ve seen them being charged £40 per magnet which is a crazy price. If you have a lot of locos and they have never been done then this is well worth the money. I personally don’t like the idea of putting in the new Neo magnets as I feel they are far too strong but that’s just my own personal thoughts to it. Anyway, hope that helps. Cheers for now mate. ………Graham

[@robinfrost6240]

Hi Graham great video and no wobble on the main track good job.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi Robin and no wobble! I went back to it and readjust the wheels, there is still a slight wobble but nothing to speak of, it’s always far more noticeable on a rolling road than actually pulling a few coaches on a track. So it all worked out ok in the end! 👍🏻. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@charlesclarke1146]

Hi, I have a Wrenn 4M and thinking about converting it to DCC, did you purchase the brush insulator,if so where from. great video veryinformative. Charlie C

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi Charles and no I didn’t purchase the insulator, as I hopefully explained in the video, I used my 3D printer to print one out but I know others who have done this and they have use heat shrink tubing instead - or any other non conductive tubing for that matter, just make sure that the brush can move freely inside the tube that’s all. I’m pleased that you found the video informative though - that’s important to me. Cheers for now mate. ………..Graham

[@charlesclarke1146]

@@GrahamFoulston 👍

[@michaelf3850]

Great work Graham. I have three Wrenn locos that I would like to convert, an 8F, a Duchess and a 4MT tank. Where did you obtain the insulated sleeves from or did you print them yourself? I have searched on line and cannot find them. Any help would be much appreceiated.

[@kellypaws]

Graham, can I ask a question please? The only part of the upgrade that I am worried about is drilling the diecast chassis, which unfortunately wasn't able to be filmed. Do you have any tips, or advice on how you did this, as the result looked perfect.

[@andrewdonald2770]

Hello Graham, i have just acquired a Triang Wrenn OO/HO City of London. I was researching how to convert her to DCC when I cam across your video - Thank you for sharing, I have now subscribed to your channel. Could you please tell me which decoder you used and what was the harness you purchased from Rails of Sheffield? I live in Australia, so I will have to order direct. I hope this very late post catches your attention. Regards Andrew

[@dansmodelrailways7886]

Graham, do you sell the 3d printed insulating brush holders?

[@stephensheritagerailwaythe8776]

Hi Graham Well done I knew you could do it and you have. I said she would run on 100 code. I think i will have to dig my Victoria out. Have princess Victoria running over Victoria bridge. What a photo that will make.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thank you very much Stephen and you have more confidence in me than I do!! 😂😂. Yes it all worked out in the end plus it runs very nicely too. I agree, the Princess Victoria would make a great shot going over the Princess Victoria bridge, hopefully we will see that one day on one of your videos! 👍🏻. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@davidstead4048]

Hi Graham I watch your videos on a regular basis. Your layout is second to none, and I agree with your opinion that you should run what you like nd not be too fussy. I started to change my layout from single track with a passing loop in both stations. I then altered the layout to double track for 3/4 of the track, so I could run both rails from station to station, but I am having problems. I cannot run both trains at once. Both tracks have their own individual feed. I use an old H&M Duette so can operate both tracks at once. I wonder if you have any ideas. Stay safe. Regards David Stead

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi David and many thanks for the comment. I’m not really the right person to talk about DC operation as I run DCC and as you know the two are completely different, I only use DC to initially test out new locos in DC mode before moving them on to DCC, as long as they work in DC then they should work once in DCC - not always the case though! So my knowledge of DC is very limited I’m afraid, I would love to help you but I would hate to give you the wrong information. My only suggestion is that you pop into your model shop of phone a competent dealer who may be able to help you solve this mystery for you. Good luck and I hope that you resolve this and sorry I can’t help in this case. Cheers for now mate. ………..Graham

[@roystrains]

I followed it all the way, very interesting to me. Luvely jubly.

[@GrahamFoulston]

Wow Roy - you’re a brave man watching it all! 😂 But I’m pleased that you found it of interest - that’s the main thing. Cheers for now mate. ………..Graham

[@LeslieMurgitroyd-uo6ur]

Very interested in 2.6.4 conversion to dcc I am in nz. Do you know where I can purchase the insulating plugs Leslie

[@supercar-junction]

Very nice locomotive

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thank you Michael and much appreciated. 👍🏻. Cheers for now mate. …………Graham

[@garthjunor3027]

Dishwasher or torrential rain?

[@GrahamFoulston]

Dishwasher - sorry about that. Cheers for now mate. ………..Graham

[@rogerwindsor2130]

Thx Graham

[@jamesmartin3431]

Great job!!!

[@GrahamFoulston]

Thank you James and much appreciated sir. Cheers for now mate. ………. Graham

[@keithwilkes4289]

I'm confused. Why is a Standard 4MT running Southern livery?🤔

[@GrahamFoulston]

Hi Keith, apparently it was a fictitious livery that Wrenn used for this loco - or so I have read. Cheers for now. …………Graham

[@johnd8892]

Wrenn found a ready market for some of their fictional liveries. Much cheaper to produce a new bright livery than new tooling. The 4MT tank also came in LMS red to start with. After that success with many thinking it was an LMS design a GWR and Southern version followed with a bit less success. Then later a Caledonian Blue version along the theme of the Lakeside railway Fairburn repaint. I was slightly annoyed that when I saved up $39 for a Castle the Blue Windsor Castle one was the only one available at that price in the main Australian outlet for Wrenn. I now find this is now more sought after than authentic liveries. Lots of incorrect liveries that Wrenn made knowing there were buyers for them.

[@transittown7891]

Great job bro 😎 😊👍