A Word About Rootstocks

Dave Wilson Nursery goes over the finer points of some popular rootstocks.

[@docrw]

Excellent video! You guys have the best tree videos, very professional.

[@kevinm8865]

Very nice

[@muddyriverdogz]

Where would i get a santa rosa plum on citation rootstock ?

[@tikamsharma7323]

How root stock is graded into different verities as M27,M9,M26,M6 & MM106? If you know please share it will be helpful.

[@grindcore832]

all this nature

[@dustinhoover3437]

Can you interstem a more precosious variety like Gisela® 6 (148-1 cv.) with mazzard to make it fruit faster with better anchorage?

[@DaveWilsonTrees]

One could always try. Usually when people don’t want Mazzard or Mahaleb, it is because of soil conditions, wet, heavy soil…. If soil conditions are not a problem Mahaleb or Maxma are plenty precosious without having to use an interstem. When people have used interstems on Cherries it has always been for improved soil adaptation properties.

[@sethipundir2171]

sir what mother need grafting

[@Southjerseyfarming]

What price do they go for ??

[@unitedstatesdale]

Novice question: How do you grow the original root ?

[@DaveWilsonTrees]

+Rich Mountains Some are grown from seed, and some from rooted cuttings.

[@EdnaSabile95]

Dave Wilson Nursery so your root stock could be any fruit tree?

[@EdnaSabile95]

Dave Wilson Nursery if from a seed of a fruits how old is the seeds growing before you can graft it?

[@gududhama5174]

m 27 how many years grow apple

[@DaveWilsonTrees]

M27 induces early and heavy bearing. So, first or second year.

[@keithashline505]

The B9 is actually a full dwarfing rootstock, I'm using the B9 in a sandy loam soil and it's adapting quite well.

[@olddave4833]

problem is , the root system dosen,t hold good in windy conditions, I'm grafting the B9 to a M111 and then grafting my tree on that. great rootstock and small tree

[@brendan3081]

not sure if anyone monitors this but, I have a citation rootstock candy heart pluerry in southern arizona. The tree was great and had real dark green open leaves on it and then 2 days later all the leaves and branches were dried up. Never had any browning or anything, they dried out a very green color. Ive been giving it extra water in hopes to revive it but it looks like it continues to die and i dont know why. This did happen about 3 days after i added fertilizer but its the only tree that showing any unnormal signs of all the trees i fertilized. The fetilizer was administered about 2 feet from center trunk

[@DaveWilsonTrees]

I suspect you gave it too much water. Fruit trees need good drainage, and do not like ‘wet feet’. So it’s important to let the topsoil dry between irrigations. In hot climates you really need to mulch, a thick layer of mulch can keep soils temps down and increase time between irrigation. You want to be watering about every 10-14 days.

[@brendan3081]

@@DaveWilsonTrees I had been watering it twice a week 20 gal at a time and it does have a 2in mulch layer around it. This is an equal amount of water ive been giving to my other trees in the same area of the yard. It never yellowed either, the leaves just dried up which is not my experience with things overwatered, but i thought the citation was supposed to be strong even in wet soil climates. To me its seems that the roots stopped taking in the water and giving it the trees as everything just dried up and the trunk is brown all the way at the graft point when doing the scratch test, im just not sure what would cause the roots to stop functioning like that though

[@DaveWilsonTrees]

@@brendan3081 lack of oxygen is what made the roots shutdown. Water twice a week will eventually cause problems, and death for a fruit tree. Let the topsoil dry between irrigations. Never water without first testing soil moisture.

[@brendan3081]

@@DaveWilsonTrees what is the best approach to testing the soil moisture?

[@DaveWilsonTrees]

@@brendan3081 a decent soil moisture meter can be found online fairly inexpensive. Or just scratch the soil.

[@fatbastard1216]

Where's your nursery?

[@DaveWilsonTrees]

Just outside of Hickman, California, east of Modesto, n the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains.

[@AstroGremlinAmerican]

Hadn't heard of B-9. Great video on rootstocks. Note to Ed: The word for size is "caliber" not "caliper" although calipers are used to measure diameter. ")

[@DaveWilsonTrees]

+Astro Gremlin We don't grow B9 anymore, we use M-27 and Geneva 935 for dwarfing.

[@AstroGremlinAmerican]

Oh the Malling 27, very dwarfing and tree only gets to 5 feet.

[@richardmang2558]

concerning the word for "caliper"... I do believe "caliper" is the correct term and industry standard. For example see this link by UC California . "Caliper " is the term used beginning in paragraph two. homeorchard.ucanr.edu/The_Big_Picture/Tree_Selection/index.cfm#select I do agree with you that measuring calipers are used, which measure caliber. Just imagine if they used a micrometer?!! :) Now, if we were talking about bullets and guns then "caliber" is the industry standard.