A320 FCU Altitude knob complete - DIY

Not perfect, maybe too complicated for some, but if it works for you feel free to download the STL files :)
Free STL files:
www.santiluib3...
Momentary Button:
www.aliexpress...
Rotary encoder with Push Button:
www.aliexpress...
MTS-1 Short Flat handle small toggle switch 3-Pins:
www.aliexpress...

[@mitchellhw2006]

Amazing work. That's a lot of engineering in a multi-function switch. Terrific.

[@danytovar5715]

Very grateful for your great contribution. I am starting out in creating panels for the aibus, and this is very helpful.

[@danytovar5715]

Hello, again, grateful for such a great contribution, I can't download the file, I can't find the download option, I only see a purchase option.

[@santiagoluib3]

@@danytovar5715 Hi I'm very sorry for the very late reply! Actually, it is free. You still purchase it but dont have to pay anything :) If still can't, please refer to my google drive version in my comments above. Hope that helps!

[@ajaykamath1853]

Top notch work as usual and thanks for your contributions to the sim world. I am in the process of designing and manufacturing my flaps, spoliers and landing gear levers. I'm making these parts primarily out if aluminium, brass (gears) and stainless steel. Unfortunately, due to some parts requiring lathe work, its not for your average garage workshop hobbyist. I too do not have a lathe, but am getting those specific parts made by an external workshop. I plan to build this design using my 3D printer, but the rotary parts where youve suggested at least 40-50% infill, i will get a workshop to make them from aluminum using a lathe. Not sure how they'd machine the oart with the square hole though 😢

[@santiagoluib3]

Instead of a Lathe machine which is intended primarily for cylindrical objects, why not look for metal CNC machines? They can surely make one, but at a cost. You may also try JLCPCB to CNC this for you. Just out of curiosity, why would you need the assembly to be made of metal? You can leave the knob housing with PLA and instead have the knob handles in metal uisng lathe machine. Just my .2 cents 😊😊

[@ajaykamath1853]

@@santiagoluib3 😄 you're .2 cents is worth a lot given the excellent designs you've come up with. I'll give it a rethink and respond

[@ajaykamath1853]

@@santiagoluib3 @santiagoluib3 I've had a look at JLCPCB and it's quite good as a service, certainly cheaper than in Australia. The intentions are to use a metal lathe for cylindrical objects. I don't intend making all the parts out of metal, just the parts that need strength. The casing will be 3D printed from ABS (it's more rigid and has better machinability - basically drilling or tapping). The knob handles as well would be 3D printed, then I will rough sand, apply a metal body filler, wet fine sand and then dip in an enamel paint to give it that beautiful smooth look and feel. I'm doing this process for all the knobs for the spoilers, flaps and landing gear.

[@santorcuato]

Really nice work, thanks a lot for sharing! Have a good time flying Santi.

[@enriqueross3961]

Thanks, printing will finish soon, I'm going to assemble what a great contribution The Top Panel knob gave me an error in the design, I'm reprinting, take your like

[@santiagoluib3]

Thank you Enrique. Let me know if that part (top panel "Cap"?) is still having errors I will re-upload. It works with me and several others though.

[@Unrealize]

Great design, and sooooo tight, I love those click sounds!! I just finished my V3 of my custom panel. (I'm not building a full cockpit because of space constraints), but I will definitely looking into this design when I'm doing my inevitable V4.. :P Thanks for sharing your design, that's very kind of you sir! All the best for your future builds!

[@steffgrunwald8881]

Brilliant! Simple and effective build. Really enjoy your designs, Thank you!

[@sky173]

Nice work! I just may have to make some of these from metal parts. I hope to see more tutorials. Thanks for sharing.

[@briantheresarezel3437]

Great video. Nicely designed switch assembly.

[@Gelonest]

Brilliant! Thankyou for sharing this.

[@santiagoluib3]

I have to add: You must solder the wires to the switch and buttons BEFORE mounting them on the plastic structure. It is nearly impossible to solder them once mounted. :)

[@ALPHARICCO875]

Super vidéo 👍 Thank you

[@ExperimentalExperiments]

Excellent. I've yet to make a video of my design, but it's rather different using two concentric aluminum tubes. The outer tube rotates a rotary switch limited to two positions and the inner tube interacts with a rotary encoder and a tactile switch. I'll feature your design in it too once I get to it, if you don't mind.

[@santiagoluib3]

Hi, I'm sure your design is amazing :) The sound of "concentric aluminum tubes" already means good build quality. Yes, you may feature my design too, thank you! I kept it simple and utilitarian as I wanted one quick... and it turned out "okay" so I just shared it in case it works for some too :) Thanks!

[@poloman7508]

Good job. Thanks for the files

[@jpnsimulations]

good afternoon Santi I'm trying to print the files ALT_Knob_Case_Oter_part_4 and ALT_Knob_Case_Inner_part_4 and there is a problem with the models. how to solve?

[@marcovalenzuela5947]

Excellent design. I am already using your designs in my FCU panel and will now implement this design for the altitude knob. I am interested in knowing how to make your korry buttons that I saw in the video (EXPED). Thanks and congratulations

[@santiagoluib3]

Thanks Marco. Great to know the design works for you like the others too :) The KORRY you see there is a very simple design I made, also 3D printed but that is based on a non-backlit text labels. Only the green indicator has light. That "EXPED" label was printed on Vinyl sticker and cut n stick on the top surface. Very fiddly because also need to cut rectangle for the upper LED indicator light. I am still thinking of ways to improve it.

[@marcovalenzuela5947]

@@santiagoluib3 Great...hope you can post the Korry A.S.A.P. I just finished printing the model. Thank you. Sometime I will upload a video giving you the corresponding credits. Thank you so much. From Chile the best for you.

[@santiagoluib3]

@@marcovalenzuela5947 you can email me at [e-mail] :)

[@Planum.]

Could yo please make a video to explain how you made your small korrys please...Thanks

[@santiagoluib3]

Hi, sorry for this delayed reply. I am preparing some metrials to make a video on that very soon!

[@santiagoluib3]

Sorry for this delay. If you're still interested in how I got my Korry buttons.. Link to my new video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJ6VmpWBnZmMg5I

[@Planum.]

@@santiagoluib3 Hi, no problem about the delay ! Btw I already saw your video about korrys...Thanks for sharing !

[@jay-rus4437]

Is there somewhere to get the decal files ready for print. Im building a simulator, but very intimidated by the print work. Just something that I have no experience with

[@santiagoluib3]

Which panels are you planning to do first? I might be able to share with you my old decals. I used to have them on 5mm Sintra boards (no backlight) and it is a breeze to have them printed on Vinyl stickers and then stuck on the 5mm boards. But you have to carefully cut the holes using various tip shapes of the crafting knife. You can email me directly at [e-mail]

[@Planum.]

Hi, love your idea, I'm gonna build one too. What's the diameter of the hole needed to install this system ? Thanks

[@santiagoluib3]

Thanks. You need a panel hole of 15mm in diameter. That's for the switch flipper to go through :)

[@Planum.]

@@santiagoluib3 Ok I wanted to make sure ( I takes mesurements in Fusion360 ), I also added 1mm to the "mid shaft" and to the "switch flipper", to make it go with 6mm plexiglass. By the way do you know if there are any EFIS panel on the market that can support your system ? Thanks.

[@santiagoluib3]

Hi@@Planum. That's good to know. The same maker of the FCU LCD (Kav Simulations) will release a display system for the EFIS soon, so I am waiting for that :) I want the EFIS+FCU to have consistent displays. But I can begin working on the little Korrys. Also need to order those 45-degree 5 and 6 position encoders for the EFIS mode and range.

[@micksum5394]

Hi, great video. What is the depth (mm) is your panel as I have 3D printed one and may need to adjust the thickness.. also interested in your button design Thanks, Mike

[@santiagoluib3]

Thanks. If what you mean by "depth" is thickness of the panel, mine is 5mm. If you use 3mm just add some 2mm padding between your panel and the top cover part. Hope that helps :) I will make another video about those simple Korry buttons soon.

[@micksum5394]

@@santiagoluib3 Ah ok, mines 7.5mm so i can slim it down a little.. cheers

[@santiagoluib3]

@@micksum5394 if you have the software to do basic edit on stl files, you can actually edit two components so you can keep your 7.5mm. Both the "switch flipper" and the "mid shaft" parts can be made longer by 2.5mm more to suit your 7.5mm panel :)

[@micksum5394]

Ok understand. Yep I use fusion 360, turning an STL back to a mesh file. Noticed when opening one of your files in cura I get some faces with an error (purple dots), but disabled error showing in settings get’s rid of these. Not tried to print it yet, but hopefully all will be fine. Thanks again

[@santiagoluib3]

@@micksum5394That's strange. I created them in Blender and those "purple" are wrong (or flipped ) normals, but I made sure they're all good before printing. Hopefully it will work :)

[@m.l.5284]

In the video, I can not see a push button, to realize the pull mechanism. How is the "pull" realized?

[@santiagoluib3]

If you watch carefully, the "push button" function is part of that rotary encoder. That encoder has left, right AND Push button. The "pull" is using that momentary push button.

[@m.l.5284]

@@santiagoluib3 Thank you for explaining. I think I understand: The push button is mounted on the inner shell. That makes it move forward, when pulled. Yeah the encoders have an internal switch for pushing.

[@steffgrunwald8881]

Would it be possible to share some of your Files to Print the vinyl panel layouts?

[@poloman7508]

Do you have a link for the boutton loc and ap1 please?

[@santiagoluib3]

Sorry for this delayed reply. I created those buttons myself, very simple yet a little fiddly to assemble :) I am preparing a video on that very soon!

[@santiagoluib3]

I already have the revised design :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJ6VmpWBnZmMg5I

[@uweneumann9472]

Great design, which kind of switch you are using? Thanks and greetings from Germany

[@santiagoluib3]

Hi. There are links in the desciption :) Hope that helps.

[@danielr_27]

Hi. nice design. is that an EC11 rotary encoder switch?

[@santiagoluib3]

Yes it's the EC11 rotary encoder with push button. Get the one with the long "ribbed" shaft :)

[@johnb6014]

Part list? Not in description

[@santiagoluib3]

My bad! sorry about that,... please refer to the updated description.

[@chmpe]

Hi, can you tell me what material the panel is made of?

[@santiagoluib3]

Hi, At the time of printing, my panel is made of Sintra PVC board 5mm, no backlighting :)

[@chmpe]

@@santiagoluib3 Тhanks for the reply. I am currently being cut from transparent plexiglass. I hope it works out :)

[@skunkylite]

Hey where can I get the electric parts? I wanna do this

[@santiagoluib3]

Hi, I have just updated the video description to add the links of the electronic parts :)

[@skunkylite]

perfect thank u this works with the flight sim right? @@santiagoluib3

[@guilhem034]

@@santiagoluib3 Hi, link for momentary button is not good from Aliexpress, can find it again please?

[@santiagoluib3]

Hi @@guilhem034 . I guess that's because Aliexpress is country-specific. What works with me in PH may not work in other regions. I suggest do a quick goggle search with "12x12mm momentary tactile button" and it should give you links that are available in your locality. Hope that helps :)

[@guilhem034]

Found the button on aliexpress. Do you have the eight also?

[@bjbruun]

Hi, do you know that the STL is faulty? it hase many open edges, and makes it impossible to print it :( Do you by any change wanna share the 3d file instead?

[@santiagoluib3]

Hi @bjbruun, sorry about that. Which slicer are you using? I use Cura as well as those who successfully used this model. It has an option to ignore these "faults" and print :) Anyways, I use Blender to model these, is that workable for you? Email me @ [e-mail] so i can send you the Blender files. In the meantime, let me check if I can eliminate those faces you mentioned. Thanks.

[@bjbruun]

@@santiagoluib3 Hi, i have tried both Cura and Prusa slicer :( i think the main problem is that i can see that i can ignore the faults in cura, but the model is not 100% correct :( im affraid that the print wont be good enough, maybe i should just try to print and see.

[@santiagoluib3]

@@bjbruun Why not give it a try to print? Lots of ppl have successfully printed and assembled it. I just ignored those warning from Cura :)) There are parts that need sanding as they purposedly have zero tolerance so they will be very tight without sanding :) hope it works for you.

[@marklazarus1356]

Эта модель тоже с косяками по нормалям, надо обойму внутреннюю перерисовывать, дизлайк.

[@santiagoluib3]

Сотни людей успешно использовали это без проблем. Попробуйте использовать Ultimaker CURA и игнорируйте предупреждения. Пожалуйста, напишите мне по адресу [e-mail], чтобы я мог предоставить вам еще одну версию.

[@marklazarus1356]

@@santiagoluib3 спасибо, за ответ, уже за это лайк, обязательно напишу, проблема модели выявлена в Simplify3D

[@santiagoluib3]

@@marklazarus1356 Спасибо. если вы напишите мне, я могу дать вам другую модель, которая, я надеюсь, не будет иметь такой же проблемы в вашем программном обеспечении :)