A39 - Arete Supercar project- Chromoly magic- Front A-Arm re-envisioned and fabricated.

[@Negi2468]

Oh wow, this channel is growing fast. From 500 subscribers to 40 thousand in just a few months. Congrats!

[@DesertDwella]

I'm hooked on your channel! Please continue the tips & suggestions at the end of your segments.

[@UndetectableSn1per]

Not sure if you'd see this but having a jig while welding helps out a tremendous amount. Especially when you need to make sure your control arms mounting points are as accurate as possible

[@nickcooper14]

Love these easy to follow suggestions and options without rabbiting on and on. Great videos.

[@fjb4750]

I’VE BEEN BINGE WATCHING LITERALLY ALL DAY LOL. MAKES ME WANT TO BUILD OR FINISH BUILDING I SHOULD SAY. MY R/C BOAT WHICH IS 7’ LONG. I’M PLANNING ON PUTTING TWIN 32cc MOTORS IN IT. I HAVE ONE MOTOR I NEED TO BUT THE OTHER. AND I HAVE THE ROUGH HULL DONE. 😬😬

[@BuilderCreator]

Sounds like fiberglass work as well!

[@johnversluys6916]

I'll never build a supercar. I'll never weld anything. Hell, I struggle changing the damn oil in my own car, but I love watching your channel. Informative, interesting, and love the process. Keep up the great work!! I can't wait to see this beautiful car on the road!

[@Chris-ev1te]

Back in the day, when we were building a FSAE car that had a 4130 chassis and arms, we got all of our welding advice and instruction from a fellow student (older guy) who was a certified welder who had welded on nuclear submarines. He said the same thing that you said, that pre and post heat was unnecessary for thin walled cro-mo. But he did recommend doing a "stress relief" heat treatment on all of the joints of the chassis and arms once the entire structure was complete. This was done at a temperature lower than either the normalizing or annealing temperatures. The way he had us do it was to get this special kind crayon (obtained from the welding supply store) that changes color when it hit just the right temperature and mark a line along each tube from the joint out about three or four times the width of the heat affected zone of the joint. Then we took a oxy-acetylene torch with a rosebud tip and heated the joint and all of the tubes that it joined out to the end of the mark, keeping the torch moving constantly to try to heat the whole area evenly. Then it was allowed to just air cool back to room temperature in still air. Anyway, that was his advice and we followed it.

[@BuilderCreator]

Another option is shot-peening the structure after the welding it complete. Kind of like a good massage to loosen everything up. Ha! I still have lots of welding to tidy up and likely a few more brackets and such to install before getting ready to paint/powdercoat.

[@rivenmotors7981]

I have been curious about cromoly welding for a while, thanks for the process tips

[@audioengineer4314]

Beautiful control arms. Remind me of the lower long arms I had custom built for my 04 Wrangler Rock Crawler/Daily driver I had back in AZ. Can’t wait to get my WJ Rock Ready as I’m getting the hell out of CA back to AZ after the holidays. Very nice work as usual

[@BuilderCreator]

Joining the CA exodus- smart move. Ha!

[@audioengineer4314]

@@BuilderCreator I consider myself extremely stupid & fortunate. Stupid for managing to get talked into moving BACK to my birth city in CA after having escaped 10 years earlier. Fortunate that I’m getting a second chance at never coming back to CA with my SECOND escape to Phoenix AZ as I had back in 2007.

[@BuilderCreator]

@@audioengineer4314 One day the pendulum effect will turn CA back to its former self.

[@tieNagle]

Damn 500 subs?! Im here 6 months later and youre at 40,000!! haha congrats on the channel and love the build!

[@BuilderCreator]

It all started that day you subscribed . . I want to be like Ty Nagle they said!

[@bobdavis3389]

Great video

[@Nikolas4g63]

You are a man of many great talents. you deserve way more views. sharing this to every car guy i know!!

[@BuilderCreator]

Thanks, sharing does the magic!

[@MrCytree]

I noticed that you answered a comment about getting your homebuilt car licensed. It would be very interesting to see as much as you can show/tell us about that process when you get to that point.

[@BuilderCreator]

That is the name of the game . . content, content, content! Ha!

[@DanielLovelock]

Excellent work.

[@kaederukawa8178]

You really make so call professional supercar r&d team a jokes

[@captaininfinity8180]

Love this project

[@markholland8152]

Great video thanks

[@timhitt9541]

I'm retired carpentry I'm curious since you're an architect, have you done much carpentry? I would imagine you're a great carpenter as well as a car builder.

[@BuilderCreator]

I have built a few houses and some furniture and other odds and ends in wood work (musical instruments). Great carpenter? Better than some, likely not as good as you. :)

[@edengates66]

Sorry I'm taking this is a tutorial that was a lot of very good information

[@deadslow201]

Aug 21 you had 500 subs? And now 10.2k. Go Go Go!

[@peetiegonzalez1845]

and 11 hours after your comment it's 11.7K !!

[@deadslow201]

12.9k!

[@deadslow201]

25.6k!

[@AliA-gl5sb]

About to hit 30k this guy deserves way more than this

[@sebwiers1]

Great video series, but chromoly doesn't excel in stiffness. All steel alloys are within a few percent of 29000ksi. What they do have is different yield strengths (and hardness, fatigue response, etc). This is why things like trellis motorcycle frames (even top level ones like Ducati) are generally made from mild steel. They are designed to be stiff enough that the extra flex tolerance of a 4140 is irrelevant. Bicycles on the other hand DO get made from 4140, because they use thin enough tubes to allow some flex. I won't say you are wasting your money on Chromoly, but the only time the extra strength is likely to pay off here is in a crash, and it would be stronger still if made entirely from chromoly.

[@bubbasattler4531]

Where did you get the bungs from?

[@BuilderCreator]

Summit racing (.com)

[@mikeleonard8031]

What temperature do you bake the powder coating.Will a normal oven do?

[@BuilderCreator]

Most powders cure at about 400f for 15-20 minutes. Yes, a normal oven works. I use an old kitchen oven with new PID controller to maintain temps.

[@dudim7260]

HI, WHY DO YOU TIG WELDING AND NOT MIG WELDING WHEN YOU CAN ? THANKS

[@BuilderCreator]

More control with the TIG and I know the penetration, as I can se the welds as they happen much better.

[@dudim7260]

THANK YOU !

[@harisrafi3932]

Please tell me why so make another panel from the mould, why you dont make panel directly from the car which you make out of plastet please explain

[@BuilderCreator]

The short answer is this- taking parts directly off the plug (master model) only gives you a flat panel. the panel gaps are cut edges with frayed fibers. the panels are thicker than your original Plug. When you attempt to reinforce the panels you will warp them out of shape if you don't have a method to hold them in position (the mold). panels laid up directly on the plug need to be sanded and filled and sanded some more . . and more. . . and more; a hellish and itchy process. With that said, there are some methods that can be used to do a direct lay up on the plug. Perhaps I can do a video of this process in the future. Till then, watch this video where I describe why I used the mold system (the orange fiberglass you see in the videos) watch- kzbin.info/www/bejne/oYfSm2lvhLeBmq8

[@harisrafi3932]

@@BuilderCreator thank you so much

[@stanmatan2381]

wow big respect ! very impressive project ! How long do you think it will take to finish the car ?

[@BuilderCreator]

A few months ago I sat down and calculated out this very answer . . The day after life happened! I no longer have an answer. Just know, that I am working to make it sooner than later.

[@stanmatan2381]

@@BuilderCreator Thanks for your answer! Will you be allowed to use it on public roads by law? Where I come from (Europe/Austria) it would have to go to a special inspection and it would be pretty hard to get a permission.. In Austria you even need permission if you want to change the size of your rims..

[@BuilderCreator]

@@stanmatan2381 Sorry to hear they are so strict there in Austria. Luckily hear in the US most of the State principalities let you license home builts fairly easily. I think they realize that there are so few being built that they can't spend time writing up laws for it. I'd guess one home built for every 200K cars licensed. It's more difficult to import a non-homoligated car from Europe than license the home built, unless the car is 25 years old; of which there are so few imported its in the same volume category as the home built. Most states do some kind of inspection and make you prove where you got your parts (titles from donor cars if you used one.) I'm just going to tell them to watch KZbin. Ha!! That should be proof!

[@jimherrmann9839]

Isn’t that type of ballpoint a non load bearing?

[@sebwiers1]

I've seen plenty of bolt in ball joints that are made to take suspension loads. The cup on this one looks pretty stout so I'd guess he grabbed on that was for use on a loaded arm.

[@garyseverson3094]

This is not an open wheel race car aerodynamics of the A arms is negligible.

[@BuilderCreator]

Air off the front splitter will spill right onto this arm. . .so why not. Ha! None of the aerodynamics of this car is verified by CFD. Just gota do what you can do.

[@DavidG2P]

hmmmm, stiffness... every steel has the same stiffness at around 200 GPa (aka Young's Modulus) I believe you're talking tensile strength 🤓

[@BuilderCreator]

Not sure what I said in that video, but I deny everything!

[@captaininfinity8180]

Any chance of some light music running along side the commentary?

[@hugonestortournier671]

@macabre artist no uses mas acero usa nada mas que aluminio 1060 m o 1061 las uniones de 8,5 mm de espesor y los tubos de 2 pulgadas y 7 mm de espesor los de 12 mm par a reforzar la carroseria que sean de 15 mm con 7 mm de espesor hasta el tren de suspencion trasero y delantero de aluminio y tenes que utilizar insertos de acero son mas fuertes que esos remaches y se pone solo un tornillo con torquimetro todo es nas liviano y la puerta esa no sirve debilita todo el casco ponele alas de las que usa el lambo esas no sirven no podes hacer el refuerzo tipocanasta es imposible aparte tenes que poner correctores ajustables para los dos trenes de hasta 10 grados adelante y de hasta 7 atras y convengencias regulables de hasta 5 grados y entre ejes para el asfalto no menos de 2,2500 mm de largo mejor de 2.535mm y los dos tanques de 20 galones a los costados de los asientos sino eso no dobla tiene mas del 80% del peso atras quien te enseño a hacer vehiculos !?