1997 Ford F150 Worst Water Leak Repair

[@HireMichaelEverson]

Happened to me. Thankfully I had a friend who was able to fix it while I got rides to work. Happened at 237k just hit 266k and survived us moving 600 miles away. Took on two summits and worked damn well. Quick tip for anyone doing this, while you have it apart might as well get a dual cell radiator to replace the single cell one.

[@2Spookeh4Me]

For anyone wanting to know. 3/8 NPT tap and a 37/64 drill bit is good for this fix. Use thread sealant and don't over torque it, threads come out a little shallow. I personally just used a 3/8 npt to bard and stuck a hose and clamp on it, a barb to barb, so it connects to the outlet pipe's hose. It might not be as perfect as getting the hard pipes but it's what i had on hand and was very cheap. 19 dollars total for the fix in 2023, a steal with all this inflation.

[@aaronsrose]

Thanks for the clarification! I went even lower tech on my hose attachment. I just used a threaded nipple and clamped the hose directly to that. Still going today.

[@nzs316]

As a follow up to the question as to what the tap size is, i will have to conclude that it's a 1/2" tap. I gauged the pipe to be 0.65" which translates to 5/8". My original thought was to just cut the pipe and slide a 5/8" heater hose over the leak area, join the two pieces and clamp them together...its doable if you remove the coil pack in that area which would allow a clamp to be tightened at the lowest part where it attaches to the manifold. I fired up the engine to confirm if that is the source of the problem and slid an old iPhone in to record the area...not a drop leaking there, Darn! So, back to square one. There another gentleman, Ron Williams, who operates Mobile Fix Automotive who uploaded a video that is 3 minutes long and the date of the upload is Feb 28, 2020. He has located a similar passenger side coolant leak apparently from the heater core through the firewall thats impossible to see. Next step, remove the right tire and the wheel well liner and maybe this will open up the area enough to track this leak. I hope this may help someone else who is in the same situation.

[@darrell6642]

I replaced the entire manifold with the new updated plastic manifold. No problems yet.

[@nzs316]

Good evening, at the 5.37 time stamp you mention 1/2" NPT but, in the comments Shelly Wall asked what size did you use and the reply was 3/8". Gosh that pipe does look like a 1/2" unless its a 3/8" going into an elbow that expands to 1/2". I'm gearing up to do my outlet hose and i can't help but wonder why no one has tried to just fit a heater hose over the whole pipe and put a hose clamp nearest to the base. That is if the pipe is secure enough to support the hose.

[@aaronsrose]

I don't honestly recall which that size I ended up using. The tap kit I have has both so it was whichever size was just slightly larger than the existing hole in the manifold. Your sleeve idea is interesting. For a quicker fix I bet that would work if you could get the hose around the bend in the tube. If you know how to braise, you could probably overlay the hole from the outside as well.

[@nzs316]

@@aaronsrose Once again thank you for your insight. To play it safe i will prepare for both eventualities but, to satisfy my curiousity, i will try slipping a heater hose over the actual pipe and clamp it. If it works, i will follow up and maybe save someone else the grief! Cheers!

[@matrixcmitech]

Uggh. I just sprung a leak in the same area. 97 F250. Not looking forward to chasing it. Thanks for the video!

[@aaronsrose]

Don't even bother with the replacement tube, just thread it and use plumbing fittings. 283k and still going with no issues. Also, way easier to do all the top end maintenance while the intake is out. Best of luck!

[@aaronsrose]

By the way if that's a 7 lug f250 that looks like my 150, that's a very cool one year only truck.

[@matrixcmitech]

@@aaronsrose Yep - it is a former fleet vehicle for Steelcase and has 36k miles.

[@peterford9369]

@@matrixcmitech Wow,,,only 36,000 miles and its leaking already? Man, what the heck are they making these nipples out of? Anything to save a buck for them,but cost us three week's pay to fix. Sucks.

[@darrenairey5938]

The 7 lug f250s were made from 97-99 until they cane out with the super duty. They rebadged the 7 lug optioned trucks to f150 7700 from 2000-03 I have an 03 heavy duty version f150 with the 10.25 sterling rear end and the 4r100 tranny. I heard the intake manifold gaskets go bad around the coolant holes but where did the leak start on yours?? I know there are a few coolant lines on the passenger side back by the firewall, is that where yours leaked?

[@chanceman122]

awesome video explained alot!

[@ehiozejames3032]

Hey thanks for the video. How what is holding the pipe in place the one under the manifold?

[@aaronsrose]

Howdy! Iirc, the front has an oring fitting into the water pump and I think at the rear there are 3 or 4 bolts that hold it to the block. Thanks!

[@ShawnMtz_78]

What replacement parts brand does anyone recommend? Motorcraft?

[@brv002]

I have a 97' Expedition 4.6 and I think I have a leak on one of the two hoses that go to the firewall. The leak seems to be right at the base of the firewall (hoping it's the hose and not the connector). Did you disconnect the hoses when taking out the intake manifold? What's the best way to do it? Mine has been leaking and trickling down onto the plugs causing cylinder 4 misfire. Help!

[@justme9870]

Do you remember how you got that middle metal pipe under the intake manifold off? Mine doesn't seem to want to come off.

[@aaronsrose]

Iirc, there are a couple bolts, one in the galley and one maybe behind the passenger head. The front is just an o ring connection pressed into the water pump. I think. Good luck!

[@justme9870]

@@aaronsrose Aaron - Thanks for the reply. I ended up cutting the pipe in half but the o-ring connection appears to be stuck fairly solidly on this truck. I have hit it with penetrating oil (PB Blaster) but no budging yet. I just saw a penetrating oil review which rated almost all of the penetrating oils on the market. To my surprise Liquid Wrench came out ahead of the rest. I will just keep soaking it until it budges. The truck I am working on has a lot more rust on it than the one you work working on.... So I will take my time one it. Will let you know how it comes out. Thanks!

[@5.4a43]

Did reuse the same o rings for the middle pipe or did you get new ones ? If so where did you buy them and did you get them the exact same size as the old ones?

[@aaronsrose]

Good question. I seem to recall that the orings came with the new tube from autozone, but I'm not 100% on that. Pretty sure I didn't reuse the old ones as that is a recipe for pulling the intake again in my opinion. Thanks!

[@onefixitman]

I guess you got it fixed and tapped the hole. Have there been any other leaks?

[@aaronsrose]

Yep. Just turned 323k on it today. No other issues since the repair.

[@rowdygreen3851]

Question Aaron, I got a 97 ford f150 4x4 4.6 triton and I got a coolant good solid leak it runs down between the engine and the fire wall on the passenger side do u think I might be leaking in the same spot u was bc I’ve changed my heater core twice (not doing that again) and I’ve done a thermostat and I just got a water pump that I’m gonna be changing in a day or so but I’m trying to track down a leak bc a month from now I got to do a 100 mile trip and I want to take this truck please help me

[@aaronsrose]

That coolant pipe would absolutely be my guess. If you've change the core, and everything else, About the only other thing is the stupid coolant pipe under the intake manifold though if there is not pond of coolant in the valley, it's most likely that little pressed in stand pipe.

[@hectorsanchez1960]

How many days it took you to complete the project

[@aaronsrose]

About 1 once I figured out what was actually wrong. Wasn't too hard just hard to get to.

[@THEGAME-tz6yu]

Well done.

[@ETKSauron]

Did you have the part number for the hard line pipe? Seems like theres a bunch of different models. I've got a motor on a stand I'm putting together and i need to replace that, and also that damn 90 degree elbow...guy who pulled the motor bent it real bad

[@aaronsrose]

I'll see if I can find it. I don't know how it can be installed though. Massive interference fit and no good way to press it in. That's why I went with the plumbing threaded fittings. Still good at 298000 so far.

[@aaronsrose]

The one I tried was a Dorman 626-229 from AutoZone. Maybe the OEM part would be easier to fit but I'm not sure.

[@ETKSauron]

@@aaronsrose Thanks man, appreciate it. I was wondering the part number on the heater return pipe that runs under the manifold as well. They seem to make like 15 different ones for different applications. the part number stamped on mine doesnt turn anything up

[@ETKSauron]

@@aaronsrose also sorry for the questions...what tap did you end up using? 3/8? i may go your path. my original motor got 315k out of it before the head gaskets went, I bought a superlow mileage 4.6L motor (52k on it from 98) but the dude I bought it from bent the crap out of that pipe and I'm not sure I trust it anymore.

[@aaronsrose]

The under manifold pipe for mine was a Dorman 626-221. (Though that says it must be without the heated PCV.) So if you have a heated PCV, it would be different.

[@mr.impossible3428]

Mine is leaking from the bottom since you’ve fixed it has it leaked from the bottom?

[@aaronsrose]

Never leaked from the bottom after this repair. The rad failed, but that was age related. Thanks!

[@gabrielrubio55]

Hows it holding up ??

[@aaronsrose]

No issues. Just turned 290k this week. Thanks!

[@2Spookeh4Me]

What size tap did you use ??

[@aaronsrose]

IIRC, it was a 1/2NPT. Thanks!

[@2Spookeh4Me]

@@aaronsrose thanks!

[@2Spookeh4Me]

Revisting this to let anyone else now that 3/8 tap with 37/64 drill bit works for this fix.

[@franklin3271]

Subbed 💯👍👍

[@shellywall9782]

I'm dealing with this same problem. I'm curious what kind and size of pipe you used. Do you remember and would you mind sharing? I'm just in the process of getting the stupid coolant line off now I'm thinking I'd rather not waste my time with another coolant line where you couldn't even get it to fit I would have no idea of how to get it in the manifold. So I'd like to do your retro fit if you could give me some info on how to do it. Thank you!

[@aaronsrose]

Howdy! I'm out of pocket right now but I think it was 3/8 npt that I was able to tap it to. Once you get the pipe out you'll be able to see what will be close. Fwiw, my truck is at 322900 and still going with no issues from the pipe threaded repair. Thanks!

[@shellywall9782]

@@aaronsrose Thanks for replying. Another question is that just galvanized pipe? Did you use anything to seal the corners, like pipe dope Teflon tape? Thanks for your help!

[@aaronsrose]

I think it was just black iron. Whatever the homeless despot had in stock that I could make fit. I believe I used a pipe dope out of a tube I had hanging around. For no real reason I'm not personally a fan of teflon tape. I prefer something with some potential to seal.

[@shellywall9782]

@@aaronsrose Thank you!

[@hussainalhamzawi8984]

Sami

[@barry570]

rookie