Acura TL 2002 dies out while driving

[@Auburn334]

Mine was doing the exact thing. 2003 Acura 3.2TL would stall out while driving. After a few minutes it would start back up. No check engine light, no codes, no warning signs. Anyway, I pulled the main relay and looked at the circuit board. After inspecting it one was burt, cracked and had a bubbly look around the outside of the solder. Replaced it with a new main relay and BOOM problem fixed. It cost me $45 and 30mins of my time. I hope this helps!

[@MrJahlion412]

Where is the relay located I'm having the same problem same year Acura

[@devinaguirre9465]

Where is it?

[@ravinbull]

Changing main relay fixed the problem. 🫡

[@bigmangozg2677]

Grounds ?

[@honda8144]

Automatic transmission fluid sensor

[@MrTimothybratton]

Omg stop saying it's the fuel pump! Honda fuel pumps almost never go out! These are common to need the electrical portion of the ignition switch replaced. It's a simple diagnosis. Once u get it to start just wiggle the key a little bit and see if it dies from that or u could see if u maybe turn the key over and try it. It seems like ignition. If it was fuel pump it wouldn't have started at all... and won't start later unless ur hitting the tank with a hammer while trying to start it and that will only sometimes give u one more start out of it

[@SPAZZTOOOPPY]

Have you found the issue ?

[@baillouboy2534]

I have the same problem plz help

[@luckjoy69]

Did you fix the problem?

[@valentinmunoz2475]

My Acura just did they same but I got it to turn over after I pulled over for about 10 min I think it’s my ignition switch but not 100 %if u see this and had figured what was the issue I would like to hear it. Thaks

[@michaelkryscha5358]

Now I’m not 100% sure about this because I don’t have any data to see what the car is actually doing but in cases like this where the vehicle randomly dies I watch the tachometer and it does not move when cranking. This would be a good thing to note. I believe you have a bad crankshaft position sensor. As a symptom with your vehicle seem to coincide with the symptoms of a failing crankshaft position sensor

[@rhondaettress3225]

Had same issue a week ago... my 2004 acura tl shut off while driving.. 2 mechanics said it was the timing belt when they looked at it... so we will see if it works this weekend.. will cost 250 to install

[@robertogonzalez8180]

Hey having the same problems did u ever find out what was the problem??

[@almighty8836]

Sound like the main relay under the steering wheel to the feul pump. I had the same problem after about 5 to 10 mins starts back up..

[@bigpimping15]

I have a ‘97 Acura CL and mines stop while driving but only sometimes. It’s always cranks back up though. No engine light. I don’t know what’s going on. I need help

[@2003AcuraTL]

It’s the ignition switch. This is a common problem with the Honda Accord

[@jamesbutler4201]

So did you figure out what the problem was? My son having the same problem with a 2002 TL... Does anyone have any suggestions???

[@ganashram9851]

I have the same problem car dies when I drive down a rough road my car is a Honda Accord 1998 coupe v6 I change the ignition switch same problem but when I hit on the top of my steering it come back on help please

[@2003AcuraTL]

Nvm I’m wrong! The fuel pump fuse or relay is bad

[@catmitchell2962]

Same happens to me. I have no idea what this is...I'll look at my relays to the ignition switch and fuel pump some time today. It's quite annoying.

[@cruzbridge]

I just had this experience yesterday and my mechanic said the MAIN RELAY SWITCH. They burn out and causes the car to stop while your are driving. Bought a new one from Acura and PRESTO! Problem fixed! Information is quite late, but anyone that comes in here trying to find information, the video will be useful along with the comments. (I have a 2002 Acura TL Type S)

[@ckinfinite]

I had this exact same problem with mine. While I suspected fuel pump at first, I also have a 1999 Honda Accord, and the wiring is very similar with the Acura TL, and it too was having this SAME issue. Replace the MAIN RELAY SWITCH (which was the solution for BOTH of my vehicles), and you should find the solution. I know this reply is wicked late, but it was just happenstance that I stumbled upon this post.

[@Xi360]

Chadd Keim hey , what is the color or the switch also do you have a link for it ? I’m having same problem

[@victorvalenzuela6949]

It’s the (accelerator pedal sensor transducer.) i have 2007 Accord Ex fixed that problem. My car runs like new again.

[@foto21]

I've replaced this item once maybe twice, and it works for a while, but now vehicle is going totally dark again, not always, but sometimes on low idle. Scared to drive of course. I'm wondering if it's fried or it fried when I jumped the vehicle. When my car dies, it's totally dead. I thought it was a bad battery for a while, and exchanged the battery, and it worked for several weeks, then I had the brake light issue, fixed that rotting plastic part, and now I jump the car again with the new battery, ran it for 15 minutes, and then it died again, with absolutely no power after it dies. WEIRD. I think it may be the alternatior or ignition switch after all. This is kind of what dying alternators do. I replaced mine, but it was a good ten years ago.

[@victorvalenzuela6949]

Oh wow.. 🤦🏻‍♂️ I thought I was done with that issue. It’s hasn’t happened again. I’ll keep that in mind. Thanks 🙏🏼👍🏼✌🏼

[@BoOmBaMan]

more food for thought... Main relay switch is the electrical brain that tells the fuel pump to send gas to the engine. Some might think the fuel pump is bad but this relay switch is surprisingly more commonly FAIL vs fuel pump

[@Xi360]

thizzface Chadd Keim hey , what is the color or the switch also do you have a link for it ? I’m having same problem

[@travissanders471]

Your lucky mine died on the freeway. I have a 99 Acura TL and it's the ignition switch, it's a pretty easy fix but still scary. I've replaced mine twice now. Great car, still driving in 2017 and I have 239,000 miles on it and runs like the first day I got it.

[@fyrehalo_]

Travis Sanders how's the tranny on your TL? Have you had to replace it since you've bought the car?

[@antoniocamacho9393]

Travis Sanders hey I know I'm late I just saw your post , I just started getting this problem and it's the ignition switch . Do I have to get The whole piece with the keys or just the wire ? I'm confused and don't really know about this . Thanks I appreciate it

[@Atomic-Purple-Guy]

​@@fyrehalo_ The transmissions do go out on Acuras mines been replaced once on my 2002. However that's not bad for a 22 year old car. I also have an old Honda Civic 97'. That car has never had a transmission replaced on it. I I thought I was having issues with the transmission but it turns out I didn't change the transmission fluid for a long time and it was giving me problems but after I changed it no problems after that. The brakes started sticking and I thought it might be the transmission but the break caliper was just getting stuck. Those old Honda civics last a long time. So do so do Acuras.

[@BoOmBaMan]

MAIN RELAY SWITCH may be the culprit. i know this video is months old but ive had experience with this before. If you disconnect a (working) main relay switch. usually located under the steering column for most hondas n acura. The car will have the same exact symptoms with trying to re-start and no turn-over. I hope this helps people with the same issue to give it a go and check out this annoying electrical relay.

[@Xi360]

thizzface Chadd Keim hey , what is the color or the switch also do you have a link for it ? I’m having same problem

[@TemeculaValleyLapse]

Did you ever find out the problem?

[@C4_LosCar]

Did you ever figure out the issue?

[@ChristopherGarrettprofile]

It is DEFINITELY the Main relay switch which is located beneath the steering wheel. I just dealt with this same issue this weekend and with the help from google it was soldered and the car started right up and I have no problems

[@gamingwithhopebridges7289]

hey bro I was driving my 2003 acura mdx on the highway and I drove about 20 miles and it just shut down any ideas

[@ChristopherGarrettprofile]

+Keith Bridges It may be the exact same thing! look at a diagram and find your main relay...probably under the dashboard on your driver side. Pull it and see if its burned out. Thats exactly what would happen to my car but the first few times i could wait a min and it would restart

[@gamingwithhopebridges7289]

+Christopher Garrett OK thanks bro

[@gamingwithhopebridges7289]

+Christopher Garrett do you know how the relay look

[@ChristopherGarrettprofile]

+Keith Bridges mine was about the size of a bar of soap under the dashboard right behind that panel where your knee is when you drive. You either have to have narrow arms to reach under and up or take the panel down. It was grey with a white bottom. You can get something like a thin knife to pry it open carefully and see if it's burned out. If so I was able to solder it back together but I ended up having to replace it anyway about 8 weeks later... For about 65 dollars

[@markfleming3832]

Mine dies just like that and it want crank I pull over put it in park and gotta sit for a min until it starts again

[@autobreza7131]

I had similar behavior on my 2002 TL-S when driving once the engine warms up. It would stall at irregular times but this usually occurred when stopping at a traffic signal. My issue turned out to be air in the cooling system. When I changed the radiator, air entered into the system. This will develop pockets of hot steam of foam inside the water jackets. My guess is that one or more coolant sensors read a high temp condition and altered the air and/or fuel mixture causing the car to stall. It will run OK when immediately restarted - sometimes - or when revved above idle. It may run rough for a short time though. To purge air from the cooling system, start with a cold engine, remove the radiator cap, and start the engine. If the radiator is low, do not fill it more than 1/2 inch from the top as the coolant will expand once hot. Once the engine is warm (you'll see coolant flowing through the radiator when looking into the neck and the top hose will get warm). For this next step, MAKE SURE THE CAR IS IN PARK AND THE E-BRAKE IS SET. Leaving the radiator cap off, raise the RPMs to 1500-1800 for 10 minutes or so. Doesn't have to be constant but the 10 minutes is a minimum total time. If there is air trapped in the system you'll see bubbles appearing in the radiator neck which is the air moving through the system and out. I like to observe the process from under the hood so I hold the throttle linkage open by hand for 30-60 seconds at a time or whatever is comfortable for you. Note that when the fans cycle on the coolant level will drop and when they stop the level will rise. Don't add any coolant until you are done purging or it will overflow. Once all the air has been expelled, let the engine idle for a minute or two and then top off the radiator (with the fans off) and replace the cap. Check the overflow tank level and top it off to between the MIN and MAX marks if necessary. If air was in the cooling system was the problem then you should see an immediate difference when driving. BTW, this is the Honda/Acura recommended method to purge the cooling system if there is no coolant bleed valve. My 1990 Accord has one but my Acura V6 does not. If you're a Honda/Acura tech reading this thread then please feel free to add your experience and knowledge to this topic.

[@Denzel350]

Steven McAfee funny thing about this I did this same step of purging the air out but the car never shut off before I did this.... my temp hand will rise as if the car would over heat. After I purged the air out it started doing this shutting off thing at certain stop lights or intersections. In my case what do you suggest?

[@StephenASmith-fx3jx]

Spark plug?

[@alilaldin2708]

Main relay. Had it with my TL too.

[@LibraUniqueK]

Having the exact same problem with my 2003 started the other day, cuts off while driving or just idling at a light. I really hope this is the problem i have, taking it to my mechanic today.

[@hyeesdoa6063]

2003 is a piece of shit

[@Baby_Suge]

Kailynda Kay do you ever get the problem fixed? My 99 TL does the same

[@LibraUniqueK]

Rog_2AM ! Yes i did... It was my main relay switch. And she's running fine now.

[@Baby_Suge]

Kailynda Kay thanks for the reply. I just picked up the main relay switch and I’m hoping this is what it is. Thanks again!!

[@Baby_Suge]

Kailynda Kay so far so good!!

[@victorvalenzuela6949]

I have 2007 Accord it the Accelerator pedal sensor transducer $60 on EBay $275 at the Dealer.

[@aracelivillagomez62]

Mine dies while driving too and I have no lights on

[@Phillipito210]

For me it was my timing belt needed to be replaced. Luckily no engine damage.

[@marim887]

I have the same car exactly the same problem it was a sensor underneath the steering wheel it's really simple

[@DJTBOOLOVE]

How u fix it

[@bndvsn626]

Have you come to a conclusion with your TL

[@autobreza7131]

So even after purging all the air out of my cooling system the stalling continued (after a brief hiatus). turned out it was the Engine Coolant Sensor in my case. I also replaced the main relay a month later as it too was faulty. I now replace the main relay as a maintenance item every few years or 50k miles.

[@kingday2424]

Definitely the main relay switch

[@Xi360]

kingday2424 Chadd Keim hey , what is the color or the switch also do you have a link for it ? I’m having same problem

[@brittaingill546]

Is your check engine light on?

[@fly5ivefly]

Brittain Gill my 2000 Acura is acting as if it wants to die then back up, then back down but not fully dying . The check engine and maint lights are on. Do you have any idea what might be the orob

[@brittaingill546]

Fab Five, have you gone to Auto Zone and had them put it up to their code machine?

[@yknowthevibes]

IT WORKED! Update 2019 Nov. 7th I even brought my car to the mechanic (which he was wrong) I spent over $600 and he changed the fuel pump which was wrong. So I went to the public and found this post!! Conclusion : Main Relay (Part # RY423) Here's the instructions I used to change out the part DIY : acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/diy-locate-pgm-fi-fuel-pump-relay-main-relay-931252/ JUST PAYING IT FORWARD THANK U ACUEA COMMUNITY 😏🤙🏼

[@jamesvickery3482]

Definitely ignition switch, same thing happened on my 99 TL

[@Albee213]

it's a relay or fuel pump, maybe fuel filter.

[@jonfox9047]

You’re out of gas dude!

[@ryans413]

Fuel injectors

[@marcustrust9449]

Could it be the spark plugs

[@vincejr2141]

I think you need to have your fuel pump replaced. Its happens to some of people.

[@nestorestrella6722]

Had the same problem with my 2002 acura tl It dies on me on service road I got scared somebody behind me could hit me

[@davidsalmons80]

Check the ignition switch

[@2488samantha]

suspect ignition there was a recall for electric harness but even the recall parts failed again after replacement try that first take ignition harness out and inspect it see if it smells burnt .acura tech 12 years exp

[@domexclusivelee]

can i bother u for some Acura advice... my a/c blows but doesn't get hot. everything else seems OK on my 2002 TL. is this a common issue

[@rubenmoreno3479]

All my lights come on and my battery starts dying along with the car while driving I suspected alternator but at first it would ran on the alternator for a little bit till completely turning off

[@kenonjervis]

the key ignition is goes son smh

[@aabc6769]

Might be main rerlay

[@bambinojr14]

I had that problem while driving battery and alternator aren't the problem.The problem is that timing belt could have broke down, timing belt needs replacementthen start the car and see how it runs why I say that because my mechanic said timing belt broke down can affect the valves so that would be another issue if car still not start after replacing timing belt. good luck, Ill post a comment after I get the car fix. BTW MY I HAVE A 04 TL 3.2 STICK

[@robertogonzalez8180]

Did u ever find the problem ?

[@hyeesdoa6063]

The 2003 acura tl does the same

[@faithlessmedevil]

there's a connector that's link to your distributor/ alternator .... loose

[@dylanlauder5827]

Dude you've got 245,000 miles and your maintenance required light is on so

[@johnnycooper3726]

Fuel pump bad

[@MrJoebotello]

I have the same problem With a 1996 acura rl I replaced the fuel filter And that was it The problem was Solved good luck To all

[@absolutgr8112]

Main relay under Dash $50 it cuts the fuel pump out! Trust me on it!

[@absolutgr8112]

Don't belive me I'll post a video on it right now!

[@trevorrogers5817]

AbsolutGr81 help...i have the issue

[@Xi360]

can you send me a link for the part my car is 2002 acura tl

[@PurpleSpazPlaysPC]

My Pontiac did this and I found out that it was my fuel pump

[@johnjohn108]

crankposition sensor

[@mjobermeyer09]

Sounds like the fuel pump.

[@Andreourdad]

charge it with iPhone.

[@lorenzobecerra6840]

Literally it’s the starter

[@johnmayor1447]

i think you should throw it away

[@odomable]

fuel pump

[@michaelcoccia9307]

Mine just stalled/died while in park. It's done this before when I drive for a long time then stop and shut the car off then restart it but I haven't really driven much today so idk what the problem is.

[@michaelcoccia9307]

And there's no codes that come up, no check engine, no nothing. When it stalls my battery light comes on tho

[@TemeculaValleyLapse]

Did you ever find out the problem?

[@muhamadadzrillabubakar5476]

change oil or feul pump that caust the feul will not go to the engine thats why