AGA Park Cable Clip Repair Kit

For F2x/F3x/F8x owners, many have experienced the scraping/odd noise coming from under the armrest. What caused this? The parking brake retaining clip (BMW part # 34 40 6 854 898) has broken off and has started rubbing on your driveshaft.
This common failure has given many F2x/F3x/F8x owners a huge scare and uneasy feeling due to how terrible this sound can be. Not only is the sound terrible, but the repair procedure can be a nightmare to DIYers or super expensive. The repair procedure requires the the tank to be lowered and have the retaining clip removed, this usually means unhappy customers or DIYers being put off.
With the AGA Park Cable Clip Repair Kit, this annoying issue can be resolved easily and in minutes. We redesigned this clip made our repair kit of billet aluminum (Are you surprised?). The kit is inexpensive and much easier to install.
Looking to purchase this repair kit? Click here: agatools.com/products/brake-l...
More info can be found on our website. We can also be reached at 760-738-4084 or at [e-mail].

[@curtisfarrarrealtoratrealt3789]

This mount is FANTASTIC! The BMW Dealer wanted almost $700 to replace the $10.00 broken plastic factory bracket and I was able to do it myself for less than $130 and I didnt have to remove the gas tank.

[@jeremygong4190]

Actually I just bought and received the part, and I am putting it on today. The invoice from my dealership for that 10 buck’s replacement OEM part was $1090!!! Which that plastic piece is gonna come off the next year anyways. And this replacement lasts forever. I do appreciate it!

[@deedub448]

Installed on my '17 M240i today. Took about 2 hours. Only had to loosen the heat shield and pull it out of the way a bit. Didn't have to loosen, lower, or remove anything else. This is a great product. I'll echo what someone else commented on regarding the rubber insulators adding thickness/height to the brake cable that prevented the lower part of the bracket from sitting flush against the upper part of the bracket. I made sure everything was lined up properly, ensured the seam of the rubber insulator was facing upward, and tightened the 13mm nut down good, but still could not get the gap to close between the upper and lower bracket. Not sure if it's completely necessary. I'd think as long as the nut is tight, should be fine, and definitely more secure than the OEM part. Maybe the brake cables are a tad thicker on an M240 compared to the car in the video?

[@rwsavory]

Great product. I installed it on my 2016 X Drive 4 series. The X Drive installation was a little different than shown in the video, as the brace is tied to a v-shaped reinforcing bar, and the drive shaft support is difficult to reach due to another heat shield. So I did not drop the shaft. I could have removed more under-panels and another heat shield, but I managed without. A little swearing and the job was done.

[@joerafalik157]

Thank you for doing this video! The steps outlined made the install that much easier. The dealership wanted $1200 to replace the bracket with the same piece that was just going to break again. I just finished putting in your bracket and what a world of difference! No more noise and I’m confident I’ll never need to replace that part again. Well done and thank you! 2017 330i

[@williampaxman4173]

Wow. My dealer wants $1048 for this job. Would love to find some in Tampa to do this

[@Youtube_ban_me]

You are amazing at diy videos!! Just straight to the point, no trying to be cute or funny. You are the ideal content creator!

[@edwincastano2906]

Thanks a lot it makes my life easier. I saved $1500…

[@AGATools]

Glad we were able to help!

[@hawkinsjd11]

I just ordered the part. I look forward to installing it shortly after I receive it.

[@fitterkrueger1524]

i literally am installing the plastic one right now it’s such a pain in the butt!! then i ran into this vid 😩 i am probably still going to get one and install it instead 👍

[@maverickelbow50]

Thank you dude you helped me so much

[@mike_Craig4500]

Great product! I installed it on my 2017 440i GC today- I only dropped the exhaust a bit and bent the heat shield out of the way. It was challenging to get on only because of the awkward placement. Highly recommend!

[@chrisbehm5947]

Just finished installing on my 2018 328D M-Sport. Torx bolts for the crossmember were T50 on my car, not T45. Exhaust system is different, not a problem. Heat shield is also different on the diesel, a bit harder to remove due to some exhaust temp sensors, but it can be slid aft slightly then rotated to the left, and out of the way. Drive shaft carrier support MUST BE lowered, or you will not be able to get the AGA clip in place. Thanks for the great product, well worth the cost, in my opinion!

[@mitch90086]

I just did it without removing the heat shield or lowering the differential or the exhaust. Was a bit tricky but not as hard as I thought at first. I drive a 328d sport M.

[@chameleon1001]

thank you for commenting, i'm about to take this job on my '16 f31 328d

[@DocTango]

I hope this thing never breaks. I just finished installing this on my 2015 m235ix in my apartment's parking lot... It was a huge pain in the ass to remove the old clip without a lift. Thankfully this part is exponentially easier to install than the OEM part it replaces. I didn't have to remove the body brace, heat shield, drive shaft support or lower the exhaust. It probably would have been easier if I did, but removing those things almost requires a lift. Plus, I'm not necessarily fat, but I'm no skinny dude either, so I opted to work around a that stuff. It took me a little over an hour to complete.

[@cinemajarmuschr6254]

No lift or ramp at all? I’m thinking to do the same

[@DocTango]

@@cinemajarmuschr6254 I used a jack under the rear diff and some jack stands, but no, no lift and my car is too low to utilize ramps. I thought the machined clip was a little on the expensive side, especially when the OEM part is less than $15, but taking into consideration the time and hassle of replacing it made the upgrade well worth the money.

[@YesseniaAguila-ik4vh]

Will be ordering mine today ! Dealer was trying to charge me $950, which is absurd & they kept pressuring me to change it.

[@stockgenie2067]

I just ordered one too today. Dealer wanted 790

[@angelg.m-m285]

It's crazy how many of these I sell and I just now found this vid lol

[@lynxstarautomotive208]

As always, y’all thinking outside the box. I’ve installed countless of these already for my customers. Not a single comeback, and the end result is light years ahead of the factory in terms of quality.

[@nimahadian]

Took me about 2:30 hours to do that in my garage for 328i f30. But very happy with the result and this steel product. The OEM plastic piece not working for this car at all. It cracks every few months.

[@tskichannel2302]

Nima, Did you follow the all the steps in the video including lowering the driveshaft? I have a F30 328i as well. And tips you have are appreciated.

[@nimahadian]

@@tskichannel2302 yeah followed all the steps. No need to lower the driveshaft

[@tskichannel2302]

Thank You.

[@user-mh5uk8ru5u]

should add 2018 M240 has 2 more brackets to the cross mount require T60. the old plastic slid right off, no pliers needed, after soaking with silicon lube and sit for 30min great fix, easy install

[@jeremygong4190]

Also can you please provide the torque spec for that exhaust bolt, the drive shaft bolt please?

[@kenandrum5613]

Great video guys, and this product is well worth the money. A few tips for anybody doing this (2015 F30) - this is much easier than ordering the plastic OEM replacement, but don't kid yourself, it's still a hassle - took about 2 hrs on jack stands in a parking lot - didn't need to lower the exhaust. Just unbolt the rear heat shield and slide forward - clearance to work will be TIGHT unless you lower the driveshaft, but I got by without lowering it or the exhaust - do yourself a favor and pick up a quick 13mm ratcheting wrench, you'll thank me later - overall, $130 seems a lot for a part like this, but believe me, once you get under the car and start dealing with the pain in the rear plastic piece that's broken, you'll be glad you spent every penny

[@06redralli]

Just installed on my 328i, no more noise! Mine was so bad I forgot what it was like to drive a quiet car with no grinding noise constantly when accelerating.

[@3sarms3]

BMW dealer quote was over $900. My 14-year-old son did this in about 90 minutes.

[@juanescobar6718]

Donde se puede conseguir en aluminio q no sea plástica

[@mariocmo1]

Thanks for making this and taking hrs from my shop😢

[@umphreak8911]

Tried this on 17' 328d and couldn't get heat sheild off, there were some wires that went to the 02 sensor right in the way Of pulling the heat shield off. Had to zip tie, it worked But not sure how long. Anyone have any idea how to move those wires?

[@Onizukachan915]

I just did mine, 328d. Don’t drop brace,don’t drop exhaust. Remove heat shield nuts, and fold / Bend heat shield back on right side to get access. Didn’t have a big channel lock but did have a set of needle nose vice grips, and those worked to pull down and forward on original plastic clip.

[@johnwick239gh]

I have exact same noise on my x1 e84. Will this clip fit x1 e84?

[@AGATools]

John, we do not think so. But give us a call at 760-738-4084.

[@johnmilliard2696]

Does this fit a 2017 430i convertible?

[@AGATools]

Yes it does!

[@samsperformance4930]

yeah, I like how he forgot to mention that we need to screw back the driveshaft mounts lol. would be problematic to drive without it after a while ahahah

[@valespring]

I wanted to leave this comment for anyone that is doing it without dropping anything. This is on a pre-LCI F31 328D xDrive on rear ramps. Tools you'll need: a creeper, a good flexible snake flash light (set on the driveshaft), a good set of pry bars for both removal and install , 13mm box wrenches, 10m socket for heat shield, and (needle-nose) pliers. The removal is as shown, but I ran into issues with the AGA bracket and insulators. The insulators added too much height and disallowed the bracket to sit flush. They also started to not hold their shape. I tried and retried them, but had to eventually abandon for a different solution. I then threaded on the nut on the bracket with no insulators, in hopes of pushing new insulators through once I had the nut partially threaded. I decided on 1/2" spiral cable wrap. This is for two reasons: 1) the reduced thickness compared to the supplied insulators 2) and so I could then push or pull them through the bracket (with the pry bars) in the spiral wrap gaps without compromising the circular shape.

[@nycshelbygt500]

Yahtzee!!

[@DearMajesty]

Lol $120 for this? Only 15 times more expensive than the original part number. Wtf.

[@AGATools]

But the labor to repair the OEM part number takes waaaaay longer than ours. Our repair is designed to last and installed with little effort.

[@danielsilva-cx2ne]

I buy the part from the dealership for 40 bucks and install already but trust me I will buy this kit for the next time!! Huge difference between metal and a piece of plastic …

[@curtisfarrarrealtoratrealt3789]

The part may be more expensive, but its a much higher quality product and it saves you about $600 in BMW dealer labor costs because you don't have to drop the fuel tank. I my opinion the billet aluminum bracket is well worth the $119.

[@hawkinsjd11]

I don't know about everyone else, but I only want to do the repair once. If you want to crawl under the car every 40k that's up to you.

[@DocTango]

I thought it was a bit pricey too, but only having to do the job once makes it well worth it. Not to mention not having to drop the tank, remove the body brace, heat shield, drive shaft support or lower the exhaust. My biggest issue was getting under the car on a black top parking lot in Central Texas... knowing I don't ever have to fix this again (after fixing it 2x) makes it worth the cost of the aluminum part. I'm also at that age where I turn the radio down to see better, so letting it go and cranking the radio isn't an option for me anymore. LOL

[@stevennguyen9007]

Here is a tip, Use a hook shaped pick to get underneath the plastic part and to pull it down. Mine was stuck and the only way to get enough leverage was to use a hook pick and pull down on one side close to the rubber