*Ahem* A Hem - My Favourite Hemmingstitches [CC]

This content is published as part of CoCoVid (30th July - 2nd August 2020) an initiative of members of the CosTube Community.
If you wish to support my work, you can buy me a 'coffee' at: ko-fi.com/juulthijssen
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In this video I'm showing you some of the ways I like to do hems. I'm including a wide range of options, but I know there are many other ways to hem a garment, as well as some good practices that I'm not covering. All roads lead to Rome, as people say who aren't into skinning cats. I hope you enjoy, and learn one or two things along the way!
Chapter timestamps in this video:
0. introduction 00:00
1. double folded/machine stitched 02:04
2. double folded/hemming stitched 03:44
3. double folded/catch stitched 06:31
4. double folded/cross stitched 08:54
5. double folded/horsehair braid 12:18
6. single folded/self edge, zigzagged or serged 15:02
7. faced hem 17:21
8. faced hem/horsehair braid 19:56
9. bias tape hem 22:12
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A playlist which will be updated with all videos from CoCoVid can be found here: • CoCoVid - Costuber Com...
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CoCoVid artwork by @costuming_drama (logo) and @eadownes.art (house style title cards)
Intro music: Lullabye (Sting) by Twin Musicom, which is licenced under a Creative Commons Attribution licence (creativecommons.org/licenses/...) Artist: www.twinmusicom.org/
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#CosTube #CoCoVid

[@JuulThijssen]

Like this comment if you have ever hemmed a garment with glue, tacks or cellotape. *clicks like*

[@ncalgal4699]

Or iron-on bonding tape

[@TanyaItkin]

Gutermann to the rescue!

[@dcinrb8538]

My late brother used black electrical tape and a stapler. He loved to party and a ripped pants' hem wasn't going to stop him. He died on New Year's Eve 2020. Take care and be safe 😷

[@JuulThijssen]

@@dcinrb8538 I'm sorry for your loss.

[@dougsteets9984]

Yep, used a stapler when my trouser hem came unravelled at work. Worked so well that I forgot about it for a week or so ;). Now I can actually hem trousers with an invisible stitch......but don’t need to worry these days as I retired and don’t need to wear “smart” trousers anymore :).

[@NurseBearEnterprises]

Really likes the “big” version to show what the thread does, then the real version in normal size!

[@JuulThijssen]

Good to know you found this helpful!

[@archiecat4182]

Happiness is a Juul Thijssen video upload.❤️

[@JuulThijssen]

Awwwww thank you :)

[@944gemma]

Those old Singer machines are amazing. I love them. Keep them clean of any lint. Keep them oiled. They will never let you down.

[@jimhooper4252]

Very useful ....a pleasure to watch again , no empty chatter and inappropriate music ......thank you so much .

[@JuulThijssen]

Thanks for watching ^_^

[@taniamagicfingers1636]

WOW I just learnt so much. I've clearly been neglecting the variety of hem finishes I can offer my clothes. Thank you so much Juul for taking the time to sew and film this. And lovely to hear how happy the sewing machine is. She just purrs as you sew.

[@JuulThijssen]

I'm glad you found it useful! And yes, I suspect the Singer is much happier now ;)

[@darklymoonlit]

Same! I don't have to fear shaped hems anymore!

[@yoellen1]

This was so helpful!! I love how quiet and peaceful your videos are - they're really lovely to watch 💜

[@JuulThijssen]

Happy you found it helpful!

[@944gemma]

I so agree.

[@MsDeepAndDark]

This is perhaps my favourite hemming tutorial so far) Every variety shown separately both as a sample and in actual garments. Plus important features of each one. Love it🤗

[@JuulThijssen]

Happy to hear that!

[@rachelkarslake7787]

You have made the best hemming tutorial video I have ever seen! I have been sewing clothing since I was a teenager (and that was in the '80s), and I learned a lot. Thank you!

[@thebratqueen]

You had me at the pun in the title, not going to lie. But having watched it it was very helpful. I liked how you showed the various hems in garments, and using paper to show how the hems folded together helped make it clear.

[@JuulThijssen]

Always good to throw in some puns.

[@emilyporter1186]

This was so helpful! I love the big version and then the smaller version, and being able to see the finished hens of example garments. Usually I like to hear ppl's instructions but your videos are so peaceful and cozy that it's become something I adore about your channel 💚

[@shawnayork8617]

A treat for the eyes and brain as always. Your videos are so aesthetically pleasing and informative at the same time. This is a ‘go to’ video for sure. 👏🏻

[@JuulThijssen]

Yay!

[@selkiemorien9006]

A video with lot's of examples for hemming AND timestamps for every single one of them?! This is going straight into my "refer back to"-Playlist! The only ones I have ever done is the double turned one, machine stitched and hand felled... That was really helpful, thank you :D

[@amyhannon3034]

Came here from costuming drama... Was not disappointed!!! I love this aesthetic! Your camera work is very good and I can see what you're doing/showing soooo clearly!

[@lisar.5011]

I'm so happy I found it before I sew a circle skirt!

[@aletijones9756]

Clearly demonstrated the importance of attention to detail for fine crafting. Thank you.

[@JuulThijssen]

Details can be overwhelming, but when you get them right they are a joy!

[@AliciaB.]

the paper model demonstrations are a very good idea, they make the process very clear. and the badge - adorable !

[@JuulThijssen]

I had many chuckles about that badge!

[@bloomindoom]

This was brilliant and informative. I love how your videos are so quiet. It makes it easier for me to pay attention.

[@JuulThijssen]

For me, too!

[@JY-zq5jk]

This was a pleasure to watch. Well done! I learned a lot from you. Please make more sewing tutorials! Thank you .

[@beeb6730]

thank you so much for the clear examples of exactly how to do each stitch! super helpful and my hand done double folded hens are going to look so much better now that I've seen yours and how you do it

[@mathcf66]

Your silent videos are always wonderfully interesting and relaxing! Really beautiful images ! Thank you 😊

[@beckyd3140]

I learned a different method for hemming in home economics. I think it is called the hidden hem stitch. It's hard to explain, but essentially you hide your running thread in the fold, catching only one or two threads on side that is the outside facing side then inserting the needle back into the fold to move to the next stitching point.

[@cincocats320]

You do such a beautiful job of explaining and demonstrating stitches. Thank you😺

[@agathemeherio2258]

This just might be the single most useful video ever. Thank you!

[@catmintable]

I guess I haven't been paying much attention to the various hems either. Good information. Well done. I learned a lot.

[@ncalgal4699]

Thank you - adding to my sewing 'toolbox'!!!

[@woolywonders5546]

LOVE the set up for the definition of types of hem stitches 🧵 ❤️💕

[@canucknancy4257]

Excellent tips and tutorials on these different hem styles. I really only knew one (the basic double fold) so this will expand the expertise of my sewing projects. Thanks for sharing. Take care.

[@JuulThijssen]

To be fair, that double fold one is one of the most universal and practical ones. But now you know there's more to explore!

[@killamoosdraree730]

Rolled hems for super sheer silky textured fabrics. This is a skill I have yet to acquire, but will need to learn before I work with a silk (maybe organza) stash fabric I obtained years ago.

[@shannon2711]

This is such a wonderful resource! Thank you for doing such diligent explanations of different hems and comparing them from sample to actual garment. Also, your videos are always so beautiful to watch and very calming. I really appreciate the silence as it allows me to focus entirely on the techniques and not feel overwhelmed or distracted by music or noise. Your work is deeply appreciated! Thank you!

[@JuulThijssen]

I'm so glad you find this useful! It was a lot of work but also a lot of fun, putting this together!

[@juniper111984]

I just had to come back and thank you again for this video! I've rewatched several times and just successfully hemmed a coat and am very excited about it!

[@deannastevens1217]

There are so many wonderful alternatives here. So wonderful. Thank You.

[@JuulThijssen]

You're very welcome!

[@deniseyoung3738]

This was a beautiful look at all those wonderful hem types! Thanks!

[@merelionne331]

OMG I’ve learned so much and I haven’t even finished the video yet. Thank you so much for this; I’m still so much a novice trying to take up sewing again (for eventual historical fun) and this is great! Fave from CoCoVid so far. 😍

[@JuulThijssen]

Glad you're enjoying the content, and I hope it does help you along with your re-found sewing journey!

[@procrasticrafting]

Your videos are some of my favorites and I always get so excited to see the notifications of a new upload. Thank you for the hours of aesthetic *bliss*.

[@JuulThijssen]

Yay! Happy to hear that!

[@Pke6853]

Great video thank you I have saved it for reference. Cheers Tricia.

[@merindymorgenson3184]

Just thought I’d let you know that I came back to this video to see if this was where I learned to do the cross stitch (I think it was) hem, and indeed it was! I am finishing the last of the three Easter dress hems, all using this stitch. It is a bit time consuming, but the hems have turned out the prettiest of any of the hems I’ve seen. Though, come to think of it, may not be that much of an accolade considering how bad my other hems were. That said, they are much better, and hems I can be proud of. And I have you to thank for teaching me this marvelous little stitch that helps tame unruly curves hems on dress skirts. And yes, the girls wore their dresses unhemmed for Easter, because I ran out of time to do hems prior to the church service. And I was very proud of one of my daughters. She had a relatively new dress she hadn’t worn to church yet. I was going to start on her Easter dress first, but she said, “why don’t you do N’s dress first. She doesn’t have a new dress for Easter, and I do.” So I did the two girls’ dresses who didn’t have dresses, and K got to wear her dress the next Sunday. Also unhemmed. But now I have her seams finished (felled) and I am 3/4 of the way through her hem, and have the other two dresses hemmed already, though they need their seams finished as well. Now I just have to add belt loops for their ribbon sashes and finish the those other two dresses and I’ll be done. I’m beginning to see why in my mom’s day, she only had two dresses for school. The time it takes to make them is considerable, if only in the time hand hemming and hand finishing seems.

[@JuulThijssen]

How sweet! I'm sure your kids feel very loved with all this craft you're putting into their clothes

[@emmamarentette]

As always, these videos are so clear and easy to understand. Really helpful, thank you!

[@JuulThijssen]

Glad to hear it!

[@susannemallmann2018]

Thank you for showing those different techniques. It had actually never occured to me to use bias tape for a curved hem. That is a quite clever idea. No clue how the way I hem is called, but it is pretty much invisible, from each side. Even if you would be using a different color thread, like you were doing.

[@Lillyk96]

Are you slip stitching perhaps? It like catch stitching but instead of stitching through the entire hem allowance you keep your stitching in/under the fold so it doesn't show on the inside either. Slip stitching is very popular in modern sewing, it is often what is called for in big 4 pattern directions for portions that are hand sewn.

[@susannemallmann2018]

@@Lillyk96 I know the slip stitching isn't what I am doing. :-)

[@JuulThijssen]

I love that bias tape trick, and I loved finding it on my vintage dresses

[@nancypeteja6560]

Maybe it's a blind hem.

[@rachelmiller2280]

Your photography and staging are perfect. I am amazed and just loving your video style!

[@JuulThijssen]

So happy to hear that, glad you like it!

[@Chibihugs]

What a helpful, clear and beautifully shot. Using the paper to explain how the hems are done is fantastic

[@JuulThijssen]

Glad you liked it!

[@jolienvsndijk]

Really nice to see all these techniques side by side, thank you! One suggestion I'd have is to make sure the camera is focused on the fabric. I noticed I had to strain my eyes to make out what was going on at some points.

[@elinordrake7129]

Thank you! I really enjoyed the parts on faced hems!

[@JuulThijssen]

I never look forward to doing faced hems, but the bias tape ones are a different story!

[@944gemma]

Lots to learn here. I love all your videos.

[@Lillyk96]

I love the look of a neat cross stitched hem! There is sort of mystery in how you stitch one way but move in the other!

[@AliciaB.]

well, it's sort of like a backstitch. but working on two parallel levels at once

[@JuulThijssen]

There is ^_^

[@micheleallen1327]

Great content! Thanks for this. Not a different hem, but an adaption- for hems on heavier, thicker fabrics that need extra support due to fabric weight, a second (but completed first) line of catch stitches/cross stitches done at half the depth of the hem. Often used for coating fabrics or deeper hems that benefit from the extra weight to enhance the fall of the fabric.

[@JuulThijssen]

Ohhhh sounds interesting! I haven't tried this out but it sounds like a very useful technique for those heavier/deeper hems

[@micheleallen1327]

Yes! The first row of stitches are hidden inside the hem. Important to use hemstich with "give" so that stitching doesn't pull, but alleviates the stress on the "top" hemstiching (at finished hem allowance edge.)

[@maryf7230]

I just love and enjoy all your videos I learn so much. Thank you.

[@JuulThijssen]

You're very welcome!

[@lindabloom6666]

This is a great video. I hope that you can leave it up for future reference.

[@JuulThijssen]

Yes, it will stay up for sure! I also have a playlist with some technical videos but it's not very long yet.

[@kerryanne2368]

I have always used Pick stitch for my hemming, as this was taught to me by my Mother and her Mother, my Gran. You get to control stitch length and size by sewing it from the front of the garment where you can feel the hem. Easy and very quick too.

[@Mommamacnz]

This was so interesting and very helpful. I think I'm going to be making swatches like that of different types of stitches for different things as that looks a useful reference too.

[@rudetuesday]

This is so helpful! I'm trying to retire fabric glue and iron-on tape. I'm learning to sew, little by little.

[@JuulThijssen]

Yes, do keep those options for emergencies but learn a little bit of sewing: it will make your finished products much nicer!

[@januzzell8631]

Fascinating (as always) - thank you for sharing!

[@JuulThijssen]

You're very welcome!

[@HumdingerGraphics]

Great video Juul! I have learned so many ways to hem now... Oh and I love your Vintage machine. It is beautiful. 😍 I have a couple myself that I really enjoy sewing on. They sure don't make them like that anymore. Made to last. I dislike our "Throw Away" society that is now. 😔

[@JuulThijssen]

Exactly! It's great when things are build to last and built to be repaired!

[@UnpackingtheTrunkCostumes]

That was so thorough and helpful, Juul! Thank you!

[@JuulThijssen]

You're welcome

[@katherinemorelle7115]

I have a thumbs up as soon as I clicked on the video. Firstly, I already knew it would be great, I’ve been subscribed to you for a while. But mostly, that pun alone deserved a like!

[@katherinemorelle7115]

And now I’m really wondering why I made myself struggle through ironing down and normal machine gemming my circle skirt when I could have faced it and made life so much easier for myself! And the inside of it is so ugly with all the easing I had to do. Why did I not think of facing the hem???

[@JuulThijssen]

1 pun = 1 like 😂

[@cheerful_something_something]

Thank you for this clear explination and demonstration of these different forms of Hem. I'm sure I'll reference this in the future.

[@JuulThijssen]

Glad you found it clear!

[@nurmihusa7780]

Beautiful work, as always!

[@JuulThijssen]

Thanks!

[@Hiker_who_Sews]

Many questions answered. Thank you!

[@ElanorKella]

thank you for tutorials, I have learnt new things and certainly will use them :-)

[@sunriseeyes0]

These were all super nice visuals! Thank you Juul!

[@JuulThijssen]

Thanks!

[@caitlinsmith5075]

Fantastically useful! Will me great to have so many hemming options in my arsenal

[@JuulThijssen]

Yay for options!

[@yourbookladykatie]

This video is so soothing. Also, I love seeing the different examples on completed garments!

[@JuulThijssen]

So glad you found it calming and useful!

[@Ompe8]

Really enjoy the way you present things. Clear and understandable (love the paper examples). Thanks.

[@JuulThijssen]

Thank you! I am all about showing things in different ways to help people understand.

[@sarahmcmullen5938]

Definitely saving this video to help with my upcoming projects! Thank you!

[@JuulThijssen]

Yes, you can always come back to it if you need it!

[@sarahmcmullen5938]

@@JuulThijssen I absolutely will! Thank you for sharing your content.

[@joelleburdette642]

Juul, this was so thorough and helpful! I really appreciate all the finished garment examples as well as the samples. Thank you!

[@JuulThijssen]

I figured that would be helpful to show!

[@ScribbleStitch]

Excellent work as always Juul! The demonstrations were so clear and easy to see!

[@JuulThijssen]

Thank you

[@yourbookladykatie]

FABULOUS video!

[@christinamo7]

this is one of the BEST tutorials I have watched. bravo

[@JuulThijssen]

Thank you!!

[@alexandracduke]

Oh my god, your video is so beautiful and so informative! I never knew facings could be used on hems. I definitely need to try the catch stitch on my 1950's dress I'm planning. My favorite hemming method is on stretch knit garments, I like using stretch lace as a bias binding instead of whatever rolled machine hem that will inevitably get stuck in my machine as the pattern suggests.

[@JuulThijssen]

I have seen (stretch) lace being used for hems or to bind seams, but have never tried it myself. I think I saw it being used by Angela Clayton, and in weddingdresses perhaps?

[@mdmaybe]

This was a fabulous video! I loved all the examples - especially pulling garments out of your closet to more easily visualize the effects. I learned a lot.

[@JuulThijssen]

Good to hear you learned a lot!

[@SnappyDragon]

This was the calm, peaceful, and still informative video I needed at the end of today

[@AliciaB.]

nifty.

[@JuulThijssen]

YES that's such a good piece of advice! It's like a hem method and a hem-protector in one!

[@Grace_x68]

Baie dankie Juul. Very informative.

[@JuulThijssen]

You're welcome ^_^

[@Sew_Learning]

Thank you Juul! I always learn something new from your lovely videos. Stay safe, best wishes from Down Under🇦🇺😎

[@JuulThijssen]

Sending best wishes back from the tiny Netherlands 🤗

[@kzisnbkosplay3346]

Wish I had known about the faced hems when I made my circle skirt!

[@AnnoraLoves]

Thank you for making this! As a beginner, I found it super helpful, and I especially appreciated that you included the purpose/pros of each option :]

[@JuulThijssen]

It's what I would want to learn myself, so I figured others would, too!

[@bellescott9137]

🤯 everything makes sense now! 😆😆 also is this ASMR for your eye balls 😍 so pretty

[@juniper111984]

This was so helpful thank you!

[@mfg2324]

Wow that was very helpful!

[@ilovecookingwithghazala7994]

Wow madam 😍😍 good work and luck.

[@JuulThijssen]

Thank you!

[@ruth.o_o5991]

Thanks for this video! Never new that there is horsehair with gathering thread, verry good to know, My way is, when I use horsehair I stitch it on the right side with a 5mm seam allowens an then flip it over to the inside, and doing so hiding the raw edge. And then stitch it on the outside on 4mm. This way you get a verry full hem when you don't have a lot of seem allowens. Tag the horse hair on the side seems so it is less likely to flip back ( I hope this makes sense without pictures and my bad English) a lot of bridal gown are finished this way. It's fast and gives nice full seem. And Juul, Can you please give a tour of your beautiful vintage collection I am drooling 🤤🤤🤤😍😍😍😍😍

[@JuulThijssen]

Sounds like a great way to make a beautiful hem 💕 thanks for explaining!

[@lizmerritt8682]

Thank you.

[@Kree.B.]

I wish I had this video 3 weeks ago. I am notoriously bad at sewing. I do better at hand stitching, so I hand stitched a set of curtains for my 1st sewing project in 23 yrs. While the finished product doesn't reflect my lack of abilities completely, it does represent a piece of my soul & sanity I'll never have again. At a quick glance they look like curtains, but anyone with any knowledge of sewing would probably laugh me out of the room! They did hold up through one wash so far and that's more than I hoped for lol.

[@JuulThijssen]

Still you should be proud you did the thing! And maybe you can re-do some of those hems?

[@Kree.B.]

@@JuulThijssen thank you so much. I am a tiny bit proud that I can say I did it. As silly as it is, I never thought about trying to redo them! Either from residual drama or because it doesn't come naturally to think of sewing & fixing things.

[@dymphygoossens]

I really enjoyed this video. I had not heard of the facings possibilities and I was able to pick up a lot. I have know the cross-stitch as the herringbone stitch. This may have been due to the difference between the UK and USA terminology.

[@JuulThijssen]

I've been confused by terminology often, and am still not sure if I'm using them right. It seems that apart from regional differences, there are also terms that change meaning over time, or according to the purpose they serve... And don't ask me any sewing terminology in Dutch, which is my first language🙈

[@dymphygoossens]

@Juul Thijssen Me too! Sometimes it is easier just to stick to the english terms. Take for instance the blanket stitch. It is also known as the buttonhole stitch in English. For us dutchies, it is more references as the feston stitch. Terminology is ever evolving and that makes it a bit weird and difficult.

[@jenniferold-dentremont6698]

Oh my gods, I have completely forgotten what I was going to say about hems, because your badge looks like it has a tiny Professor Umbridge on it and I am just dying here.

[@JuulThijssen]

Jennifer Old-d'Entremont YES it is a tiny umbridge and I’m so happy you recognised it!

[@HandmadeSolace]

This video is shot beautifully (so many angles! that's a lot of work. have you taken classes for videography?) and the instructions were awesome. Most of the times when I watch a how-to video, I have a question at the end. You rock and thank you! (❁´◡`❁)

[@Luna_Scarlet]

Very comprehensive! What's the difference between the hemming stitch and the felling/whip stitch? They look the same to me...

[@barbarapeters5093]

Hum ... Interesting

[@maryellenkosydar2828]

where would I find horsehair like you used

[@JuulThijssen]

Search for horsehair braid in your favourite fabric/haberdashery (web) shops. If you can see one side has a thicker/darker edge than the other: that is the one with a ‘gathering’ thread!

[@shaidabegum.]

, 👌❤️👍👏

[@naboolio8442]

Newbie here - grateful if someone could explain the benefit of having more movement in the hem? (i.e catch stitch?) Many thanks in advance!

[@JuulThijssen]

Do you ever see those diagonal wrinkles on a hem? That wouldn’t happen so quickly with a hem that had a little ‘movement’

[@naboolio8442]

@@JuulThijssen that makes complete sense! Thank you 😊. Thanks also for this fantastic tutorial.

[@nancypeteja6560]

What about a "blind" hem?

[@maryellenkosydar2828]

Great Job. I've been sewing for a very long time and you taught me some tricks that I didn't know! A little music would have been nice to cover your breathing though.

[@JuulThijssen]

Thanks!

[@elenalenaiva]

I'm sorry to complain here, but I can't enjoy the calmness of the video, because there's an ad every 3 minutes! I guess it's a youtube doing it's thing, because I've watched many of your videos and have never been bombarded with the ads like now :(

[@JuulThijssen]

It is an automatic thing, which was only recently rolled out. Have turned the midrolls off since!

[@elenalenaiva]

@@JuulThijssen oh, I didn't know, I'm sorry! I've been seeing it everywhere since then :(