Air compressor not building pressure, free fix.

Slow building pressure , and not being able to get to the pressure switches desired pressure, here’s how you fix it , I don’t recommend but that’s how I’m going to run it

[@everseen99]

A piece of wire? BRILLIANT! That's a really good hack. I spent $6 on rubber gasket material and cut it down using the Dremel which was about an hour's worth of work. Should have watched sooner.. thank you!

[@pappydc12]

Some fine 'renchin' there young man. Don't need any fancy gasket kits either. A big win for sure!

[@65csx83]

There's no arguing with success. Good improvisation.

[@larryh577]

A man after m own hart . Im allays picking stuff up at the curb and trying to fix them , its amazing sometimes that something sooo simple can repair things // good job buddy , im a subscriber now

[@croweknowsmowers1877]

That orange wire trick was INGENIUS!

[@williambell3947]

Thanks, my compressor will not go above 50psi either i will try your fix.

[@alale923]

Amazing.

[@gregorypiercesr.794]

Great cheap and easy fix, something that might come in handy!👍👍

[@MikePate1975]

Hey bud, I have a question for you. I have a Husky H1820F that I just fixed a boat load of problems with. But now I have a new one. It appears I mounted the valve plate wrong, and it was my first time working on a compressor in any way. There aren't many specific videos or pictures online about the Husky H1820F. And definitely burnt nothing with the orientation of the valve plate. Now I got the front and back part figured out as air has to flow to the tank but can't be allowed to flow out of the tank. So the reeds open one way like a check valve would. They have to open to allow air into three tank but not allow air flow the opposite way. Anyway, after mounting it and replacing the feed line, the seal on the piston and a couple other parts it runs and has been for months. But the issue is this thing is so hot that when it's sprayed with soapy water to find leaks the water vaporizes immediately. This thing has turned the brass fittings connecting the feed tube black. I'm about to have to replace the valve plate again. It's not that expensive so that's not an issue. But I want to meet get it mounted right this time so it doesn't destroy other parts from the heat. The new babe e plate started leaking from between the layers about a week in. But I just got off my ass and checked what would cause or to run so hot. And one of the ways to diagnose a bad valve plate is to check the temp of the engine and the surrounding air temp. I'm pretty sure this thing is mounted wrong. Can you advise me on how to tell which way it goes? As I said I have front to back figured out. But it's the rotation part that has me. I couldn't even find any plates in pics or videos that resembled this one. I appreciate any advice you can give. Thanks..

[@gobob63]

Hey don't forget the cooling fan . dam hope I'm not to late 3/27/22

[@hillbillyimports31]

Haha, appreciate it. Put it back on off camera, dang thing is still kicking

[@rogersking3811]

Priorities 😆

[@codyjohnson5674]

It was losing 3-5lbs as soon as it shut off.

[@avflyguy]

Simple physics... You heat something it expands. You cool something it shrinks. Hot air being pumped into tank. When it cooled to ambient temp, actually 3-5 lbs is nothing.