Air Conditioning Not Working (system performance, leak test) - Honda CRV

[@ebertlongoria2869]

Paul is TRULY unique and very talented teacher/ technician. When I first saw one of his videos in 2011 I knew from the start I should learn from him. Glad I subscribed . He has a gift for diagnosing very complicated cases that would want to make a any other technician pull his hair out. What's amazing is he can" walk the walk and talk the talk". I bought is ebook and course which helped me to pass the L1 test the first time! I really struggled with electrical and electronics but he helped me to think and learn outside the box! Don't worry about the trolls, they couldn't touch you with a 10ft pole!! Keep on doing what you are doing Paul because you're blessed

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you so much for this comment.

[@mattmiles9779]

@@ScannerDanner Paul, where do you get the adapters to charge the AC system with shop air?

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks again for this comment. Just happened on it again.

[@ScannerDanner]

Can you put this comment on my feedback page of my website? www.scannerdanner.com/leave-read-feedback-new.html

[@rcalzadilla]

This the very best instruction video I have ever seen. I am 75 yrs since birth and have serviced my vehicles myself for a long, long time but I am not a real mechanic. You are so competent, not over confident nor BSing your way at any time, always truthful and honest, not lazy. You have good brain under that baseball cap. Cannot thank you nor admire you enough for sharing so much valuable, useful information without charging a single penny for your work. All in under 45 minutes! I may not do an a/c job myself and probably use a professional to do the job, but you have given me the confidence and understanding to protect myself against the crooked "professionals" that are so prevalent in the industry today, at least, around here. Just incredible! Thanks.

[@wendywhales2310]

I Have Fixed my Car From SCRATCH,Not knowing a thing about it at all. Just Followed Most of your video's on AC Fault finding.. You Fixed my car all the way across the Pond.UK. Thanks Paul.

[@fieldsofomagh]

This was a great in depth, real life, no holds barred video with quite a lot of useful practical information on faultfinding the A/c system. There was 4 essential pieces of equipment used in tracking down the fault. No 1--- was the set of gauges, No 2--- was the vacuum pump, No 3--- was the fault locator, No 4---- was the compressed refrigerant. These items would not be beyond the budget of the average diyer when the long haul is taken into account and the amount of savings could prove substantial. Nice camera work by your son and shows great promise for the future.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks so much Tom!

[@teresapeabody2746]

By the very nature of the design of the shraeder valve, it is more likely to leak under vacuum than pressure. by design, pressure tends to hold it closed as a vacuum would tend to open it.

[@kellismith4329]

That system never operates in a vacuum though

[@Cokie907]

​@@kellismith4329 Captain Obvious reporting for duty! 😂

[@redrustyhill2]

Good luck finding a leak under vacuum

[@johnjohannemann1220]

As a master ASE and master Ford tech of 35+ years I’ve seen many compressor shaft seals leak only when the compressor was running. Good video as always. I love how you and Caleb keep it real.

[@mobileair6416]

I agree, but disagree with using shop air for a leak test. Use nitrogen.

[@gtoboss600]

Working for one of the big three assembling hvac components, part of the manufacturing process for condenser cores is a bursting pressure procedure to verify the product meets its specifications. This is done on randomly selected pieces through out the day. Depending on the model of condenser, the psi that is required to burst the core varies. But for a half ton truck the average pressure they can withstand is about 1400 psi before breaking apart. It's pretty impressive to think that the core is roughly 3x stronger than what it will see under normal operating conditions on the high side. Just an interesting bit of information on condensers.

[@ScannerDanner]

awesome information! Thank you

[@gtoboss600]

ScannerDanner Thank you for making these videos. The way you break down the problems makes the tasks manageable for the average guy working on his stuff. As you mentioned I don't think there is anyway shop air could hurt the cores within reason.

[@itsnotfar]

That's me too, cardboard and some slight frustration. Finding the leak is such a big win and relief. I think everyone noticed smiles afterwards. Great video !!!

[@jeffhesse8415]

Nice job. We usually use dye but tried the soap and water test the other day when dye wasn't showing anything. The bubbles showed us the leak. Still have a freon sniffer, 25 yrs old, still works. Excellent video showing the importance of having multiple methods to diagnose with.

[@geraldmartin3625]

One of the few, the proud, the real automotive technicians left in this world. Your book is still on my wish list

[@NSXTACY420]

for sure

[@terryharvey4811]

{read all I have a good tip at the end} I've owned 3 tif sniffers and 1 other one for 12 and 134 {can't remember the brand on it} none were satisfactory. Not sensitive enough. Have used dye and black light for the last 25 years and it works great. Allows you to see leak on evap after removal for verification. Have since bought a ROBINAIR model L D 3. It has proven to be the most sensitive, therefore the best sniffer i have ever used. I still use the dye for visible areas and the sniffer for shaft seals and evap cores.Testing a shaft seal, pull belt and tape a plastic bag around the nose of the compressor, leave over night. Poke a small hole in bag and sniff inside of the bag. This will show a small leak that gets worse under pressure that you can't find and /or test with the engine running.

[@randywilson8300]

One method I learnt for checking a leaking evaporator is checking the drain hose and you will see an oily residue at the end, just wanted to let you know and keep doing what you doing love your videos I'll never stop watching

[@mveno123]

Beat A/C diagnostic video I’ve found so far. Thanks.

[@danjensen100]

You said Pete didn't have an evac machine, then at the end of the video said you were gonna have him evac it with his machine.......lol. just busting your chops, I love your videos and appreciate you. (15yr master certified MB tech and you've reignited my interest in learning and diagnosing, thank you!)

[@ScannerDanner]

He didn't have an r134 machine so we converted his old r12 machine to do the job. I'll show it next time :-) Thanks bro

[@stevem9141]

Just wanted to thank you for all of your thorough, detailed, and informative videos.

[@ScannerDanner]

thanks Steve!

[@thomasgibson8025]

Forget people yelling at you! I am searching an evap leak and your drain tube idea is brilliant!! I am going to try it tomorrow. I will let you know the outcome. Thanx Tom

[@jrperrotta]

Nice presentation! After watching this I've come to the conclusion that the quickest way to identify the leak would be to sacrifice a 12 oz can of refrigerant into the system and use your Leak Detector straight to the difficult places first, like the compressor and evaporator drain tube. Of course when installing the refrigerant the system needs to get the compressor started and if not hot wire the low refrigerant sensor. and from your experience Dan what would you say is the most common failure points? Compressor? Evaporator? or condenser?

[@efrensaclolo7021]

In my Honda was the condenser,found out it was hit by a rock in the front of the grill,so I will put a mess screen to protect the condenser from bugs and rocks.I sprayed it with my grandkids bubble maker to find the leaks.

[@lorraineforrester1298]

Paul is very good at explaining this to me it's very much like your central air conditioning it all makes sense

[@richardsoto9615]

With all due respect - let me add a couple of penny thoughts here: While using air for testing might be an easy option, you have to consider the possibility of condensing moister out into the system at the higher than atmosphere test pressure. (just think of how much water is usually dumped from your shop air tank) That said, you also ran that compressor increasing the pressure above 300 psi on the the high side which will squeeze even more water out of that air. Now, given how hydroscopic these new oils are you also risk contamination of compressor oil. This will not be evident in the short term but it tends to shorten the overall life of the system. If you agree with my points here, perhaps you will consider changing this habit. Thanks for all your videos. I am extremely grateful for all the help you provide to the rest of us.. Please keep them coming you do an awesome job!!!

[@lewisriesbeck8858]

I agree, not a good habit to used compressed air for pressurizing A/C systems. Nitrogen is cheap enough and the preferred gas to use for finding leaks using soap or bubble up product. Only professional AC techs have micron gauges for the most part, to determine vacuum status, which should be brought down to 1500-500 microns, to remove moisture from the system. Going lower than 500, if one has a pump capable of doing that, is also detrimental, as it can remove parts of the oil ingredients as well, making the oil less able to lubricate. Love checking out Scanner Danner's videos, they are exceptionally well put together and the level of detail is outstanding, he's my first stop for info about auto/truck repair. Keep it up, we thank you for all you do. But....GET SOME NITROGEN

[@ocavant]

Um, just to be clear it is “hygroscopic” NOT “hydroscopic” but im sure you knew that… en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hygroscopy

[@mrghiax]

If only tv programmes were as good as your videos i might switch on the tv more! Great video Paul

[@ScannerDanner]

haha nice! Thank you

[@wb6csh]

My experience with bicycle inner tube leak detection: fill a spray bottle with tap water, then add 30-60 ml PER GALLON of liquid dishwashing detergent. 60ml/gallon = 15 ml./quart = 7.5 ml/pint (16 ounces) of the dishwashing liquid. I would suggest doubling the dishwasher detergent, since Paul likes a concentrated soap/detergent solution. Mix well before using, squirt liberally to detect leaks. Home Depot sells an appropriate spray/squirt bottle. Paul - the terminology or concept about R-134a LUBRICANT may be that it evaporates after it leaks out of the newer systems, and thus is gone when you look for those oily marks? The Boiling point of water is 69F (20.56C) at 29.22 inches of Hg vacuum (0.344 psia), lower with greater vacuum. Excellent video and sound! Appreciate your logical approach, Paul "Scanner" Danner! Good Instructor! The sniffer TIF RX-1a is available on Amazon ~$121.88 (Aug.2019) EDIT:Thanks & sniffer.

[@DylanRabier]

I love these HVAC videos. Great camerawork from Caleb btw! Yep I've seen it happen more than once that after replacing a leaking condenser the compressor won't turn on. Awesome to tell that to your customer. So a quick check just like Paul did rules that out. 👍

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks Dylan!

[@terryharvey8627]

Trash,aka leaves, can close off a leak under vacuum while air pressure will show leak. Had a hose leak that vacuum pulled a foam insulation tube tight and closed it off. R 12 of course leaked. I could hear it. That taught me a lesson. Holding vacuum does not mean no leak under pressure. Lisle now makes a stethoscope with a hollow tube. I made one years ago from the Y from a nurses old stethoscope and a piece of brake tube. This is great for air and vacuum leaks as well as finding noises on the front of engines. Bearings like water pumps, p s pumps, alternator, idler, and belt tensioner pulleys. Love your stuff. Keep up the good work. One other thought, I taped a freezer bag around the nose of a compressor and left it over night. Next morning I opened a hole in the bag sniffed it and found a small pesky leak that had been driving me nuts trying to find it.

[@davesage9190]

Nice camera work. Smooth and steady and right on point.

[@8953147]

This has to be the best approach, I've seen, for troubleshooting the AC system- thanks Paul!!

[@ScannerDanner]

thank you jake!

[@Charlie-vv2fd]

Excellent video Paul. I used your techniques from the other videos to find a compressor leak through shaft seal using compressed air. No refrigerant wasted. I invested on a vacuum pump, AC manifold and a reman compressor on a 95 Maxima that is sitting on the driveway as a backup only lol! People asking why even bother with it but I did it to gain valuable experience and the tools will serve me well in the future. I think of it as shop time lol. I posted my finding on the forum so thanks again!

[@ScannerDanner]

Awesome! Thanks man. I have a hard time frequenting the forum and appreciate your comment here.

[@Ashroyer86]

charles acosta I like your way of thinking.

[@of5140]

charles acosta Good job man. I'm the same. I'll do stuff like that to gain valuable knowledge. You'll have lots of people asking why you do stuff like that or giving you weird looks. Screw em and do what helps you progress in life.

[@thecuss6817]

In 2002 I had an issue with air flow out the vents of my 1988 Mazda truck, even though blower fan was working fine, and air was still cold. I removed the bottom of the evaporator case and found gunk all over the evaporator, blocking air flow. I used aerosol brake cleaner and a nylon parts brush to clean off the gunk, and my air flow was restored. But a few weeks later, my R-12 had leaked out, and I suspected the gunk was R-12 oil mixed with dust. I used soap bubbles to confirm a leak right in the center of the evaporator, and my 11 year-old daughter helped me replace the evaporator.

[@humidbeing]

Back when I first started doing AC work I was so paranoid about the system being open for even a second. Now I embrace the pressure test and usually don't replace receiver/drier unless debris in system. I trust my vacuum pump and physics to do the work.

[@ScannerDanner]

yep, exactly. And the dryer should be changed in theory but I've done hundreds of these where the customer doesn't want it changed and I'll still see the car years later (as I'm still servicing it) and everything is fine

[@davidhall3747]

I like Paul's honesty about the liquid line filter dryer. When the system is in a vacuum- all moisture will be boiled out of the system. So technically- there's no need to replace the Filter Dryer.

[@anthonysova7117]

@@ScannerDanner yes sir in theory your correct you can get away with not changing driers on medium to hi temp like cars but not medium to low refrigeration it’s a no brainer you must I enjoy watching a car guy that understands refrigeration cycle watched utube guys not using a vacuum pump because they been doing that for years. Enjoy your knowledge and your book which I used to diagnosis a 5v reference I’m a retired hvac ref service tech by the way when I began my career you where on your own island as far as no BEEPER CELL PHONE and knowledge was obtained thru the manufacture and lots of reading Today u can reach out to everything available curtesy of the internet. Cheers

[@johnmiller2403]

Best presentation of A/C diagnosis procedure I've seen. (as a non-mechanic)

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you John!

[@SouthMainAuto]

Hey Paul (Not Dan haha) if you get that job they are gravy really. Takes about two hours is all. Also remember when testing for leaks with vacuum it is about as handy as tits on a bull. 30"hg of vacuum inside the lines is only about 14psi (atmospheric pressure) on the outsides of the lines. Much better off having 150psi on the inside right? A lot of people over look that fact and think if it can hold vacuum it is good when indeed it can usually hold that unless the leak is huge. Also under vacuum if the system is full on non condensable gas and moisture it will increase gauge pressure under a vacuum as it continues to boil off and trick you. A micron gauge comes in handy for checking that. ANy how glad you found the leak! --Eric O.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks Eric! Good to hear from you my friend.

[@joeysmama8701]

South Main Auto Repair Hey Eric O, thanks for your upload today. This was the best 4th of July gift you could have given me. You and Scanner Danner should go into business together. That would probably be the best auto repair facility in the country. With all the knowledge that you guys have, there wouldn't be car or truck that you guys couldn't fix...✌😀✌

[@emtscythe3782]

Excellent diag Paul. That's what this channel is all about about. Many guys would just throw a compressor or condenser at it because " they've fixed 100s of theses ". It will bite you in the butt. Test don't guess. I can't believe it held vac with a Evap core leak. As usual a great example of showing future techs how to go though it correctly and get it repaired.

[@ScannerDanner]

I know! I was surprised too. Thanks so much for the comment

[@roadkill5333]

Had a minor leak that was a serious gremlin!!! Turned out to be the high pressure side fitting at the compressor! Had my gauges on while searching! Never considered the fittings!

[@fieroboom]

I know I'm watching older videos, but I can't believe this information is free... I've had a significant problem with my AC in my 2005 Chrysler Town & Country, & thanks to your videos, I've FINALLY figured it out. I finally feel like I THOROUGHLY understand how it operates, and I'm fully prepared to handle anything else that might go wrong with it. Thank you!! ❤️👍👌

[@ScannerDanner]

Awesome! Thank you and I'm glad you found me. Appreciate the comments

[@majwor3763]

Adding Shop air is a great way to test the A/C integrity along with finding leaks. You can crank the engine...turn on the A/C and do alot of checks without using any refrigerant. Love the nitrogen guys. They should know that the air we breathe is 75% nitrogen...Most shops have water traps to REMOVE moisture out of the shop air. Been doing it this way for 36 plus years. Very cost effective! Check your manifold guage lines too at the service valves and at the guages...found plenty of leaks there over the years...lol

[@trevor311264]

The only reason nitrogen is used is it is the cheapest bottled gas there is, it is only used because there is no moisture..

[@davidhall3747]

Just used the compressed air trick on my Nissan Sentra. The compressor came on right away. Saved some money by not wasting refrigerant. Thanks for the money saving tip.

[@vincescalise4821]

Great informative video as always, the compressed air trick is a good thing to know And the soapy water, Doesn’t get much simpler than that Thank you Paul

[@jonathanallende826]

Dryer in new cars are inside the condenser... its remove by a torx or allen nut underneath the condenser! Good job man every tech has its own way to check and repair, you re a pro because we the techs mainly protects the ozone and thats the main reason of this profession... God bless!

[@EddieTheGrouch]

Can anyone else picture Paul sitting in a directors chair wearing a flat cap, "Move in tighter, Caleb. Follow that smoke trail." "One more time, Danner - put some passion into it!" "Cut! That's a wrap. Check on my screwdriver order, I'll be in my trailer."

[@theadventuresofjavier8698]

this is the video that Paul hath made..your making my day Paul...not trying to be creepy or anything..i just truly enjoy your vids..bless you.

[@ScannerDanner]

thanks brother

[@rollingrockfan2482]

Great video I have never considered shop air for leak locating I thought it would damage it with just air, again another great one !

[@geraldsanford2411]

Use shop air if the system is totally empty tho

[@rollingrockfan2482]

Oh yes I can't recover so it must be like Paul's video was the big fat 0

[@itpo3]

Paul danner, Number 1 teacher on youtube!!!! God bless you Paul!!!

[@ScannerDanner]

thanks brother

[@georgekonrad911]

Another great video! As far as testing with air instead of nitrogen goes, remind the know it all's air is 79% nitrogen

[@ScannerDanner]

I won't argue with the nitrogen crowd. It's just not practical for me, especially given the few AC jobs I do per year now. Buying a tank and then getting it filled is the difficult part. I have a small tank for my EVAP machine and I could not find a place to fill it. Air it is man. Thanks George

[@michaelszczys8316]

If you were going to leave it in for a long long time I could see it, but just quick testing just make sure air isn’t full of water or oil or other junk.

[@dhood15277]

Surprised the compressor was not also leak tested. This video is super good, helped me a lot with my 87 r12 car.

[@rogerd4559]

I was told the compressor shaft seal is the number one major leak in auto ac. If you want to avoid a leak you should cycle the AC in winter months often when not normally using the AC to keep that seal from drying out, shrinking and leaking

[@ScannerDanner]

the AC clutch comes on automatically in the defrost mode, also, below about 40 degrees F the AC compressor clutch will NOT engage, even if you select the AC to turn on

[@Cokie907]

@@ScannerDanner And there lies the problem. Southern cars do not use the defrost setting much. If you're retired or work from home, you don't have to drive on inclement days. There's another missed opportunity to use the defrost/defog option. My AC went out on a 96 Saturn for the first time in the 25 years I've owned it. I suspect this very problem. 😥

[@danzumaran8810]

The patients that you have for troubleshooting is incredible thank you for all your work.

[@bigdaddymak1439]

For those on here pushing nitrogen just remember the air is made of approx 80% nitrogen!! And if you're worried about moisture any leak repair on a vehicle should include a receiver dryer!!

[@irench]

to say nothing of when the proper method for charging is employed a vacuum will be applied for a min of 20 min and will boil any moisture from the system

[@leroysorber2661]

I just wanted to say thanks bro. Ive been in texas since 4th grade. Im still but a Damn yankee born in greenville P.A. 1/10/1966 . Most of my family are still around there or as i remember? You may be in euclid or Cleveland but u still in p.a. ❤ god bless you n yours and keep blessing others with your passion bro.

[@ScannerDanner]

Pittsburgh Pa 😀 thank you!

[@leroysorber2661]

Got my AC going . Clutch plate rubber broke. 87 f150 . You can fix a clutch plate by welding it in place and balance it. Works but needs balancing.cool again. Lol

[@swallowinn4410]

Hi Paul (Scanner) Great video and very useful information for the DIY'er. I have ons suggestion foryour test kit. If you do not have a sniffer I have used a balloon over the drain tube. Surprisingly it quite often works with leaks of the size you were experiencing. I just use a little electrical tape to hold deflated balloon onto the tube and it is quick visual confirmation of pressure on the drain system. Unfortunately does not work well on small leaks under 1-2 lbs/HR.

[@ScannerDanner]

nice tip, thanks!

[@michaelszczys8316]

Since you are using air in the system maybe you could put something like a little ammonia or something that will evaporate out but something you could sniff out with your ‘ nose ‘.

[@michelsaavedra9023]

His name is Paul, his last name: Humble and Honest Man. Thannk You so much for sharing Your knoledge Paul. God bless You!.

[@DudeTastic13]

Evap Core dead after 5 years (2012)? Was expecting more from a Honda. Great video though. Not too many people teach complete diagnostic these days.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks Daniel

[@Enrightauto]

Daniel Yip extremely rare been working for Honda for almost 4 yrs. have never seen a evap leak on one of those must be a fluke. The 07-09's are super common for clutch coils but don't see too many leaks except for condensers from rocks

[@variablethrust]

hey Paul. once I know there's a leak I always remove gauges and check the Schrader valves had loads of them leaking .

[@variablethrust]

my bad commented before you said it 😂

[@ovwok]

The problem with using vacuum to look for a leak is your only dealing with 14.7 psi at best trying to get past the seals and that would be at sea level.

[@joeshearer1247]

Mark Patton should use a micron guage

[@Carlitosway211]

Nitrogen is the thing to use. Crank the regulator up to 200psi. You'll find the leak.

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

The problem is more the some leaks act like a one way valve, small gaps and cracks can close up when the pressure difference acts pushing from the outside. Positive Internal pressure will always tend to open up cracks.

[@nickloss]

especially on compression seals, where the vacuum would actually suck the gap closed

[@billrimmer5596]

Mark Patton Mark is a super cool guy!!

[@dgonz1975]

Thanks for the very fundamental and understandable explanation of how an AC system works its components etc

[@Wrenchlife604]

Good diagnosis. Im surprised it held vaccum. Normals i let it sit on vacuum for 15mins then let it rest for 15 mins. Have you had luck by running the a/c then using the leak detector in the hvac vents instead of the drain tube?

[@Tedybear315]

Not really a valid test. Blowing air into the detector usually will set off a false positive. The detector has a tiny air pump that draws in a metered air amount. It's just as easy to sneak the detector probe to the drain tube. Check towards the end of the video where he states not to blow air or have blown air into the probe.

[@ScannerDanner]

exactly what I was going to say Wrench life 604

[@newton296]

Great video showing the difficulty and complications of the A/C system. I hate to admit as a DIY guy that things are to complicated and best left to the pros but I gotta say, this is a bit much for the average DIY guy. Even the tools needs(gauges) and detectors look hard to work with.

[@herlbertomurcia5023]

On Hondas.the dryer is built in.with co denser.

[@truthteller9562]

This guy is a joke. How can you teach someone something when you don't even know wtf you are looking at.

[@MiguelFlores-jp1ss]

Finally someone using a laser pointer!!! Now I can see exactly the part you're referring too !!! Good video, I'm now going to work on my A/C system with "PRICELESS " knowledge!!! Thanks Paul !!!

[@ScannerDanner]

If you need additional help, post to my forum www.scannerdanner.com, it is free to join, hope to see you there!

[@akpd1]

The first thing I would check is the Schroeder valves...

[@jcortes3930]

Scrotum valves

[@jeramiet154]

No pressure in the system would give you Jack shit so youd have to disturb at least one valve to put pressure in the system anyway.

[@sirsweetness8332]

Used your warm water trick the other day and it worked Had a problem getting refrigerant to flow into low side.

[@mikem1014]

use ac oil in serv port to check for leak

[@ScannerDanner]

That's a good idea

[@terryharvey4811]

i use ac oil also to check the valves.

[@OneCr8er]

Super sad that this is not first on the algorithm. I figured this out on my own. Other videos asinine. This is an extremely effective way

[@youtubebitchcenter1463]

You do know your sniffer tool went off the first time when you had it at the drain tube at 24:23 should have left it there a little longer.

[@jeffarmer4428]

Great vid Paul , learned something new here . Back in the day (80'S) we would have put a partial charge in the system an use are shop electronic leak detector .

[@rooanashan]

receiver dryer is in the condenser

[@Tahimate]

Guess what Paul? After I saw you pumping air into the AC system I went out and do the same to my 2006 VW Passat. I can hear the air escaping from the system. In less than 2 minutes, I found the low pressure hose was rapture. You save me headache and $$$. I am hoping all I need to do is to replacing the hose than charge the system. I hope the compressor is still good from running the AC without refrigerant and oil. Thanks to you and Caleb too.

[@ScannerDanner]

perfect example why I use the air method. Just make sure you pull a good vacuum on the system to boil off any moisture after your repair and you should be good to go. Maybe add an ounce of oil when you replace that hose but I wouldn't add any more than that.

[@Tahimate]

@@ScannerDanner Wanting to complete what I started here by watching the video. Replace the low pressure hose. Vacuum the system, add 1oz of oil and 600g of R134. AC is cold and much nicer drive. Your video made the difference. Thank You.

[@bitkurd]

Receiver drier on 2007-2011 Cr-v is mounted on the condenser on left side

[@JD-526]

Nice job, good use of the soap & water test i would have never thought of that. Can't make money watching TV but you can make money watching scanner Danner's videos. Great job. Going to order a leak detector.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks JD

[@thelifescout8335]

Sneaky Pete coming around the corner to get into the camera shot. lol

[@ScannerDanner]

haha I know

[@Tahimate]

All I can say, damn you are good. I watch your Durango AC and surprisingly this video shows up. Your technique and approach to diagnose the problems were excellent. You also answer my question if I can pump air into the system. And a special thanks to Caleb.

[@jammerp226]

Fantastic ! I learned so much

[@cwj9202]

I am at the 18:00 minute mark, and the schraeder valves have not been checked, but maybe you will later. You introductory talk promoting the use of air for troubleshooting the AC system was excellent.

[@ScannerDanner]

It's there Chad. I didn't mention it until later because I had proof of the leak WITH the gauges connected. Showing me the leak was elsewhere. Thanks man

[@cwj9202]

Immediately after replying at that time frame, I thought I should not have, as you being a pro, it would have been covered later. The evap leak test -- my take on the usage of air vs. r134a -- the molecular weights of that refrigerant is 102g/mol and air is 29g/mol, so gravity would exert a greater effect on the heavier refrigerant than air, thus creating the situation where the escaping r134a would descend through the column of air in the evap tube into the sensor. The air being the same weight as the surrounding air in the evap housing would intermix there and not necessarily with any water forced up into the evap tube, and if any shop air does find a path through the evap tube, it would mix with the introduced test water/soap solution and not be so very discernible. Keep up the great work and thanks for emphasizing the air test.

[@dubmob151]

if a leak is detected, to rule out the possibility of the gauge set having a loose connection leak, just shut off the service port valves and see that the pressure or vacuum is maintained. That should also reveal a service port valve leak.

[@lucianlucian9911]

I hear you brother, too much metal over the years may hurt your ears. :)

[@PaullyG1991]

Your really helping me understand hvac with cars I'm trying to make another source of income with the summer in California Your really making a Difference in my life brother Thank you!!!

[@Travelingman-1980]

I'd like to service my car's a/c, but in Australia r134 is not available to the public.

[@stigonutube]

Travelingman 1997, i hear your pain mate,

[@throttlebottle5906]

wont be long and they'll snipe it from USA also

[@zfiddy]

thankgod its not available! too many dodgy backyarders becoming experts!

[@Travelingman-1980]

ZED , and you are judge and jury of your speculative claim. What has an imaginary God, got to do with maintaining automotive a/c systems? It seems the US treats it's citizens as adults, unlike Australia where the government likes to decide for you.

[@BlueRage]

Order the cans off of eBay....there's all kinds of brands Red Tek being one of them. They're based off of propane. Turns out propane makes a great refrigerant and is compatible with R12 and R134 systems.

[@donniejohnson7499]

great video Paul. it's awesome to see you troubleshoot all Automotive systems. thanks for posting all your videos.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you Donnie

[@ScannerDanner]

8-17-19 Don't forget about the SD merch you see above me^^^^^^^^^ 100% of my proceeds will be going to charity. When I have the list complete, I will be putting them up on my website (who we will be helping). Right now I have a pro life group called the Human Connection that offers free ultrasounds to women considering an abortion and of course a ton of other benefits for these hurting woman. I also have Light of Life Rescue Mission (homeless shelter in Pittsburgh) and a list of about 5 or 6 more. I think I will probably only go with 3 charities for now, to get the most help we can to these people.

[@paulypc6351]

ScannerDanner yow hi watch ur videos very informative hi have a 2008 Honda Accord 2.4 ENGIN but my Ac only come on when you start the car it only come on for 10 Second can u offer me any advice ? Please N thanks 🙏🏽

[@JD-526]

Your a good man Mr Danner.

[@kirkbrown2147]

Water boils at 212 f and 100 c

[@zoltanszollosi8595]

I’m here to pick puu

[@egimene1]

Really i understand you because you are not a magician....the way you have to explain is perfect for me thank you so much

[@chekelley6861]

Uh oh. Pete is gonna repair that AC system without a recovery machine! I hear the black helicopters spooling up! LOL!

[@tpcoachfix]

Che Kelley I was thinking the same thing myself. He'll have to bring the car to a shop with a recovery machine.

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

In the real world the small amout of R134a added to the system will have long gone before the parts even arrive.

[@chekelley6861]

Andrew W MacFadyen I know. I was just being a smart ass.

[@ScannerDanner]

haha I know right?

[@MrSamadolfo]

😒 pft, fill it up, and next

[@idada459]

Paul you a master tech this is the best video on ac repair on KZbin

[@ScannerDanner]

thank you!

[@hxc7273]

If you're gonna make a pocket screwdriver make sure it has a good magnet on it. They're all so weak.

[@ScannerDanner]

one where you walk past something metal and it pulls itself out of your pocket right?

[@nickloss]

@ScannerDanner at the bare minimum, haha

[@undergod1987]

ScannerDanner or just rips your pocket off.

[@wb6csh]

So strong so that when a lady comes in to get her car serviced, she says "Is that a magnet in your pocket, or are you just happy to see me?"

[@garybeharrell3972]

just a thought. pressure is about 130 psi above atmosphere. vac. is only 30 difference(well a perfect vacuum would be 14.7 less than atmosphere at sea level), so that could explain y it held vac. and not pressure. Also vac. could pull the rupture closed. If you put a micron gauge on it I think it would show up right away. I really don't know why the auto industry doesn't require the use of a micron gauge when evacuating. I have seen so many wet systems that just were not cooling well. I hear some people put air in a system to leak check, which would require longer evac. Awesome vid.

[@mikem1014]

scanner both hi an low open is best because it is faster

[@jacobusa4727]

Hi Paul just a tip that ac leak detector is same one I used years ago and just let you know red silicone that is used for gaskets will make the detector will set it off , pan gaskets ,valve covers, thermo housing, water pump with silicone anyhow enjoyed your process elemention diagnostic keep them coming thanks Sal

[@ScannerDanner]

great tips! thank you

[@joelopez40oz23]

ScannerDanner throwing up the West Side at the end

[@user-ro6ou5vb8y]

Thanks God for showing your tecnic on how to locate the leaks on airconditioning system.

[@R.E.HILL_]

Nice one. Btw why do you americans insist on using a temp scale based on one dudes rectal temp? your car industry is for the most part metric, why not go celsius too? ☺

[@ScannerDanner]

hahaha

[@Tedybear315]

"Rectal" plays a large part in design of American (and also import) designs of automotive. We're often heard to say in the field "What A&&hole designed this???"

[@filibertobarrera3839]

ScannerDanner Can you use that tool to put in the a.c. vent.and detect the leak through the vent also. Will definitely look up that tool.100% better than the dye leak finder.

[@ScannerDanner]

Filiberto Barrara You cannot have the blower running at all, due to false positives. So no, unless the leak is huge, using the vent in the dash is not a good test. The drain tube is always best for testing the EVAP core. I found the updated version of the tool I used and linked it in the description of this video. Thank you!

[@filibertobarrera3839]

ScannerDanner Thanks good to know.your method of looking for this issue.Just saved me hrs of wasted money and work.Thanks again.we appreciate any video you make .

[@albertocervantes4432]

“Too much Metal over the years” You Rock ScannerDanner!!!

[@MrSamadolfo]

😏 just roll the car into a swimming pool, that shud help u find the leak fast ☺️

[@elliotmedrano9612]

It's666

[@sqeekykleen49]

Make sure you add a couple gallons of dish soap to the pool first.

[@brianmock551]

Enjoy spending time with you guys!

[@happy543210]

for very slow leaks, soapy water will not do the trick. charge the system with r-134a combined with florescent die. when the system is empty, look for florescence with a black light. if you can't find the leak under the hood, the evaporator must be replaced.

[@lustfulvengance]

Right but if you get one that's COMPLETELY EMPTY you don't want to start off by putting Freon in it until you verify that there is not an enormous leak somewhere (using air)!!

[@daddyjay319]

+Lustfulvengance that wouldn't be a good idea pressuring with air only introduces moisture .. freon is cheaper and vacuum time is decreased you can alway emergency vacuum the system. .

[@shmio]

Best to try to not vent r134a to atmosphere. Nitrogen w/ dye sounds optimal. We're all in this together.

[@lustfulvengance]

shmio Right, the idea here is to NOT PUT FREON INTO A KNOWN LEAKING SYSTEM!! Stop with all this "OMG your introducing moisture" bullshit!! IT BOILS OUT WHEN YOU VACUUM THE SYSTEM!! And remember this is just the diagnostic part, ANY AC repair should include a new receiver drier or accumulator so you have a fresh dessicant bag! I am with Paul here, I have used compressed air and soap for years and years and NEVER ONCE had a problem!

[@throttlebottle5906]

nitrogen works great ;)

[@patricioaguayo9088]

Your a good teacher. And there is nothing dumb about forgetting soapy water at home!

[@gearwrench877]

ohh i died @ thats what she said !!! hahaha

[@ScannerDanner]

I was thinking if I don't make the comment, someone else will :-)

[@filibertobarrera3839]

ScannerDanner Looked up Danner in the urban dictionary. It means one of the guys.

[@ScannerDanner]

haha really? That's cool

[@mohammedmuthana5828]

Thank you for this beautiful video. nice info about the resting pressure relation to temperature in Fahrenheit as in my country we use Celsius, also the relation between the high and low side (5:1) is very helpful to guide you in the right direction. you said that R134a system will have little or no oil leak because they do not use mineral oil ,well if you check the evaporator of this CRV after replacement you will notice evidence of oil leak over it covered by dust.

[@ScannerDanner]

I have seen evidence of oil leaks on R134a systems. It is just more difficult. Thanks!

[@mohammedmuthana5828]

ScannerDanner thank you for every thing you do to help us

[@Coodeville]

I love that gauge set you're using. My HF one broke. The plastic knob cracked in half. I clicked the link down below and just ordered one. Love your video's

[@Coodeville]

I figure if a guy like you uses it, it's good.

[@joshr3501]

Hey Paul, head up this one the dash DOES not have to come out. Just glovebox, and blower housing. About to have to do one on my SO’s 09 CRV in our Dodge Chrysler, Jeep Ram shop after doing about the exact process as you before coming to this video lol

[@frugalprepper]

Hey Paul, your refrigerant detector will detect any halogen-bearing gas. A great way to test it is with a can of duster.

[@ocavant]

AHC. Always Have Cardboard handy. For those of us without a lift, it is a must have for working on the ground.

[@utahyork3338]

Found a similar leak detector at Harbor Freight for $70. Thanks for the video.

[@robertpope3619]

So glad I went from automotive to heavy duty field. So much easier to access the engine bay.

[@LayZeeDawg]

I bought a leak detector on eBay for less than 20 bucks. Works fine, found a huge leak in the rear evap in my mini van.

[@jugubantan7740]

Mr danner your the best teacher....I have a lot to learn from you!