DIY Trolling Motor Inexpensive Impact Protection and Cable Lift

This is a 2 part tutorial. One shows how to make your trolling motor more impact resistant. It allows the trolling motor shaft rotate in case of impact. The other part is how to make a trolling motor cable trim or lift system. You can add a handle to the paracord and tie it off on a cleat for a specific depth.
Here is a link for the pulleys:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...

[@johnrugani9832]

Another insightful well thought out video. Thanks Aksman

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thanks John. You got my mind working on the impact resistance part.

[@craignichols9131]

great video on lift ! just what I was looking for thanx

[@Aksmaniyak]

You are welcome Craig.

[@johnperry1972]

Thank you, thank youaa. It was easy add on and works very well.

[@aksman44]

Glad to help. You are welcome John.

[@BassManStrikes]

Excellent !!! You have figured all this out so I don't have to :-) Gave you a sub for that alone :-) Thank you for these videos.

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thanks!

[@todddavidson5012]

I like that one a lot I am going to use this

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thanks Todd.

[@kirkkohd4883]

i have been researching endlessly for this a DIY trim system and my idea is almost identical to yours. unfortunately my trolling motor is the minnkota terova. no where to really mount the pulley and if i remember right, the plastic on it is thin and weak unlike the one in this video. I would appreciate it so much if you could maybe look at the terrova and see if you can visualize a similar system like this. i was so looking forward to a working demonstration lol

[@odin210]

Your videos have help me plan out or improved my kayak! Thank you!!

[@Aksmaniyak]

Glad I could help. Thank you!

[@PassNoJudgement]

Great idea, thanks for sharing. I'm wondering though, is there any way you could use this lift system with zeroing springs in a pedal steering setup? Of course it wouldn't be practical to mount the springs on the transom as it would require more force to lift the motor. But what about an adjustable spring tensioner in the foot pedals? Would love to hear your input.

[@S1avk0]

Hi Aksman, where did you get the stainless steel pulley? I went to HD yesterday, all they had was a much larger steel version. Great vid!

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thanks Gerry. Try Lowes or a good hardware store.

[@yaksportfishingnateconley4888]

Can you use this vertical lift system but have a mechanism for the motor to stay straight (not turn)? The reason is that I have a steering rudder and so I want to use this lift system but have the motorhead stationary.

[@Aksmaniyak]

This method does have a minimal turn but not enough to be a problem for standard set ups. I'm assuming you are using a steering rudder on the shaft above the prop. If so, then you will not be able to lift the motor up very much unless it is very deep.

[@Aksmaniyak]

Nathan, I started a FB page that makes it easier to share information and videos. Here is the link if interested. facebook.com/groups/3521517597860461

[@tightloop01]

Hey Aksman, great content. I have had the same TM on my Nucanoe and for a couple years and have been using the tilt function on a pulley system to raise the motor. I like your vertical method better and have made the modifications. Still frozen here, so have not tested out on the water. I have a concern that with this setup, I no longer can control the turning tension on the shaft with the thumb nut. Suspect that this will require me to keep tension with my feet on my ruder pedals at all times to keep the TM from turning off course on it's own. What is your experience so far?

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thanks. If I understand you correctly, you are talking about shaft rotation when you pull on the cable to raise it. Yes? If so, this "V" set up keeps the trolling motor pointed forward and has minimal (if any) twist.

[@tightloop01]

@@Aksmaniyak Sorry I was not clear. I am talking about shaft rotation due to the power of the motor as the prop is turning. With the thumb nut, I can have enough tension on the shaft rotation that if I use my foot pedals to adjust direction, the shaft will turn but is still tight enough that it cannot spin freely on it's own while under power. Now that the shaft rotates freely, I am concerned that I will need to keep constant pressure on my foot pedals, as opposed to being able to take my feet off the pedals while maintaining a generally straight course. Maybe still not clear?

[@Aksmaniyak]

Ok, I got it now. I have never had that problem because the foot pedals had enough friction in the guides to keep that from happening. I never tried that in a tight turn though. But when you remove the brake from the pedals so they can slide, they also double as foot rests, so it is easy to control the kayak.

[@tightloop01]

@@Aksmaniyak Thanks. I'll reply back once I get it out on the water. Keep the great ideas coming!

[@willbill2209]

@@tightloop01 did that shaft ever rotate on you? I had the same question as you but haven't gotten a reply yet

[@elvisrickey4625]

Hello Aksmaniyak, I was wondering if you hadn't put the tensioner cord on the motor, what would happen. I would think I would lose reverse, but that's OK, I don't need it (I think). I fish where there is a lot of stumps and kind of like the idea of the motor being free to pop up when necessary to avoid damage to the motor/prop. Do you think that would work? Or does the motor try to pop up when you turn. Definitely would appreciate your thoughts on the matter. I enjoy the way you really think things through before moving forward. You save us "trial and error" guys a lot of experimenting. Thanks for posting.

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thanks Elvis. Trust me when I say that many of my videos are a product of failures until I reach a solution. Reverse will still work without the tensioner but it must be done at a very low speed.

[@Aksmaniyak]

You are welcome Elvis. What happens when there is no tension the motor has a tendency to pop out of the water in reverse.

[@mkpaulk1957]

I have added this to my motor but now I want to add foot control steering. Do you have any advise on how I can compensate for the added steering line needed when I trim the motor? I can trim it up about 6” so I’m sure I will need to compensate for that on the foot control cables.

[@Aksmaniyak]

Try centering your pedals first, take you feet off them, and then pull up the motor. You might not need to add any length.

[@craignichols9131]

on your lift what did u run the para cord thru to the seat area [pad eyes ?]

[@Aksmaniyak]

You can use pad eyes and then tie it off to a cleat.

[@samuelbrooks8199]

May i see close up images of where the shock cord and zip tie are please and thank you?

[@Aksmaniyak]

Hi, I don't have any close up photos. You can try stopping on the video on a frame by frame basis if that helps. Thanks.

[@lancebettisfishing]

After cutting that part off, how do you mount that to the 4 hole mounting plate?

[@Aksmaniyak]

You make an adapter mounting plate.

[@willbill2209]

How do you prevent the motor from tilting when you put the motor to go in reverse? Also, are you able to disengage the motor from the kayak?

[@Aksmaniyak]

The shock cord keeps it from popping up in reverse. Yes you can remove the motor.

[@willbill2209]

@@Aksmaniyak thanks for replying. Another question is, since the clamp that allows the motor to be pulled up or down is loosen does it have any chance on rotating left or right? I'm using a rudder system unlike connecting the steering cables directly to the motor so I'm worried it will freely rotate on it's own

[@traildadd]

Does your setup still allow you to use reverse? I like the idea of protecting the motor and kayak, but I need reverse thrust.

[@Aksmaniyak]

Yes, reverse is still used. This modification keeps the trolling motor from raising up out of the water when reverse is used without the mount lock.

[@FL-gg4dq]

Niceeeee

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thanks.

[@garryevans4207]

Does the paranormal get caught up in weeds and any debris?

[@Aksmaniyak]

Hi Garry...I think you mean paracord...lol. It could depending on the amount of weeds. In good conditions it is not an issue.

[@garyreinoehl804]

Rather than using a radiator clamp I just pull the lock lever back and stick a 1/2 ounce flat sinker in between the lever and the housing, if you tie a line on it you won’t loose it and you can just pull it out if you want.

[@Aksmaniyak]

Nice. That's why DIY is so great; there are many ways to do things.