How to remove a corroded exhaust flange stud

[@Litesnip2022]

Cut the stud off and then drill the rest out. Would of looked cleaner.

[@AlexGnok]

takes ages though

[@Daedalus_UK]

@@AlexGnok only if you have cheap drill bits

[@Daedalus_UK]

use cobalt

[@AlexGnok]

@@Daedalus_UK yeah probably you are right. I don't remember what drill bits I was using, but I was drilling out 4 studs from the dpf filter on my focus and it took me half a day to do it

[@Daedalus_UK]

@@AlexGnok probably HSS titanium coated which are shit. They polish metal not cut. Cobalt for the win.

[@user-wu7rf6kl6j]

🧐 Each to their own. Cut and drill, brake flaring tools could have been used, splitting fork behind the bolt head, heat treatment, use some imagination. Smacking an unsupported pipe with a hammer will surely lead to more damage. Could have at least put something behind the flange to counter the impact. Sorta like "every action has an equal an opposite reaction"

[@MotorwiseBromley]

i cut them flush , drill a dimple into it, then punch it out with a pointed tip on an air hammer

[@yoyo762]

If i cut a thin slot in a flange, i also cut nearly all the way through the bolt too. That way the bolt is in half and comes out with a small hammer hit.

[@alan4x]

yes should do

[@callumcurtis15]

If you have a acetylene torch I would deffinatly say heating around the stud then one nice whack usualy does it for me .

[@jamesporter4749]

That's what I did with a Vauxhall corsa exhaust I changed the other week, heating up the surrounding area around the stud until blood red and used my spring punch on the two studs. They flew out

[@guffermeister]

Please put the guard back on your angle grinder. I have had slitting and grinding discs let go on me before and been so thankful that I had the guard on to eject the disc debris away from me. Proper eye protection is a must. If you had an accident, you would be putting your employer in a horrible position with liability without the proper guards and basic PPE in place...

[@nomaschalupas2453]

Well, it hasn’t happened to him yet, so he’s alright.

[@johnsaliba5358]

@@nomaschalupas2453 I've seen a disk coming apart and being embedded in a mate's face. Gruesome and nearly cost him an eye. JUst because it has not happened yet does not mean it will not.

[@Whatta33]

Get a desk job

[@jaybird3651]

I've seen a ufo at band camp

[@lilibethdoherty295]

This is why High temperature paint is so great, I coat all my cars exhaust parts with it and the metal will not absorb moisture. I have been doing this for decades and have none of these problems!

[@vintageallday2771]

What type of paint?

[@mule666]

He just said...cant you read ?

[@aimized1460]

why did you nut cut the thread off.. you keep saying bending the flange if you hit it right well why didnt you wedge something at the back of the flange to support the hits... i could of taken this bolt out 6 diff ways leading to sunday, thanks anyway CUT thread and dont bang 100x armature work

[@cosmicallyderived]

Yah you can see a lot of the wasted energy moving the whole exhaust.

[@danielgreenbaum8875]

Ive always drilled them out but a quick way of getting them always good to learn new tricks and have other options only thing I think would be abit more difficult is trying to grind stub at top getting grinder in but still a very good idea

[@Peter_Riis_DK]

Bloody hell, Alan. Please don't succumb to the vertical video syndrome any more. Anyway; top repair tip, thanks.

[@Theorangeman.]

Also put a socket on the flush part of stud and push it out with the vice

[@gmoney9588]

Not in our wildest dreams would we be able to retread a stud that had deteriorated to a smaller size and expect it to hold up under the stress of torque and heat and last for any length of time . Replacement was the only option . Although splined studs are not always easy to remove , even when heat is applied , it’s still easier than a threaded stud for removal . I’ve had success on thinner flanges with heat , and I don’t even own acetylene torches but used MAP gas . After heating until it smokes heavily , a socket on the stud end a C press on the other end to produce tension , followed by some concentrated tapping to shock the stud loose . Such as removing a ball joint , readjust tension when tapping and introducing shock to loosen the stud until the splines back out . Before beginning the removal process however , I will try cleaning away as much rust as possible and apply a penetrating oil in hopes that it will lubricate the splines and free up the rust bond as best as possible . You will always want to clean away as much rust from the head of the stud and threads where they go through the hole in the flange so there is the minimal of rust bond for a successful extraction of the stud . Yes , cutting the flange to relieve tension and aid extraction works but I really do try to avoid cutting unless I’ve no choice . That is a healthy sized flange and should be quite strong but heat from the catalytic converter will eventually cause it to bend . Respecting that this is a quick fix when time is of the essence and the exhaust has only a limited time left in this world before your MOT Lads condemn it to the junk pile , it’s what gets the job done . I speak from personal ownership as though it’s got to last twenty years or so since I personally keep a vehicle an eternity as it is anyway . While everyone has their methods , I will say that cutting and relieving will absolutely get the old stud out . Re-welding is not likely to last if that is a cast steel flange . The heat cycles from the exhaust will eventually weaken it . A body can try heat as you’ve suggested and pressing it out but time is always the deciding factor . You’ve got to keep them rolling and quickly , granted . Just hope the MOT lads haven’t a difference with this plan of attack . I should think not or you wouldn’t take this route . Well , to each his own but I will say , yes , this will definitely work . This thick flange will go a while in service with this repair for at least long enough before mileage has this vehicle either parted out or on its way to the furnace . The taxis rack up mileage so it’s a question of whether mileage dictates removal from service or wear and tear does first . Anyway , under the circumstances , this is a quick and acceptable repair for the needs . If all else fails , miss Monica’s input is always welcome ❤️

[@trboj]

The C press on the other end is what i would due

[@gmoney9588]

@@trboj Yes , I’ve found that a C press used for ball joints and universal joints to be useful on larger bolts . Smaller bolts , I’d use a press clamp similar to a C press in action . Yes , it’s the method of pressing out a splined fastener that we must use . Shocking the faster out whether on the flange surface or the fastener itself with a hammer or air hammer and increasing pressure of the press will eventually get it done .

[@benws8246]

I do love a good flange video. 😁

[@sandy7m]

Spilned studs on an exhaust assembly flange. What moron tbought that was a good idea. You had a great solution to the problem which took the issue back to what shohld have been their "day one" nut and bolt

[@alan4x]

yes nuts and bolts would be much better but I guess its cheaper to produce the studs

[@usnchief1339]

The moron that wants consumer to purchase a new exhaust component before it actually fails.

[@idunknown7591]

I'll be damned... I have been trying to get mine out on my 98 K2500 4x4 for two solid days. Then I decided to go to KZbin University. and there you were Alan. As soon as you said cut a relief cut in the flange, I knew that that was the trick. Going outside right now and going to get them both out. Will update in a few.

[@Calmac519]

update?

[@danieldryden4246]

OMG! I wish you had posted this video 2 weeks ago! I had the same issue trying to remove the dpf from my 2010 2.0 tdci S-Max. I opted to cut the studs flush with the flange and then drill them out… It worked, but it took me the best part of 4 hours to do 2 flanges. 🤦‍♂️

[@Umski]

I fear I am taking on a similar problem - I spent 2 hours drilling and have only cut about 2mm so far - busted several smaller drill bits in the process too 🤦‍♂

[@Country_Nasty]

@@Umskigotta buy the best drill bits. Cheap ones will break your heart half way into a hole

[@Umski]

@@Country_Nasty 😄 yeah I went for a cobalt single of the correct size in the end - it was like a hot knife through butter - have had similar experiences with masonry drills too 😬

[@mikeberry304]

Nice job Alan , I usually cut off the thread , and drill through the stud a couple of times and bolt it back together, at least no damage to catalytic converter either way 👍

[@hoojchoons2258]

Snap, still a twat of a job!

[@jedigeekbiker]

id have done same

[@justadreamin1004]

Wouldn't that cause an exhaust leak the way he did it---at least eventually?

[@jedigeekbiker]

@@justadreamin1004 that part is seperate from the exhaust gasket so actually would be ok

[@N269]

Exactly Mike. By cutting a notch (slicing the wing) will lead to other issues. I'd cut & drill and replace the stud with a bolt and an Aerotight nut. Might as well do same on the other stud.

[@Walczyk]

Remove the exhaust and put it on a press with a backer

[@seeya205]

I would have used some penetrating oil on it. Once you got that little crack in the front, I would sprayed some in there. It may have made it easier to get out. It stilled worked out in the end. This my job coming up once the part arrives.I would never have thought about cutting the slot. I may need this trick this weekend if mine break. They do look in better condition than yours, so fingers crossed.

[@alan4x]

Great point!

[@drivewasher]

OHhh Alan, Iv'e just lost a load of faith in you. Useing a mini grinder with no gaurd and a cutting disc, especially if it's one of those 1mm thin discs. They shatter with the slightest of bend in them. That wouldn't happen in our garage! Very dangerouse. I had one shatter on me a couple of weeks ago, the gaurd saved my face by deflecting the bits

[@rasmadrak]

Isn't there a risk of destroying the cat ceramic by pounding on it? Or is it durable enough for that? I handled my new cat with silk gloves during install... :'D

[@ghassanalfarra8935]

@05:54 you can see inside the CC that the honeycomb still seems to be intact .. but I too would have worried

[@imapadlock]

Rather you that me with no guard on that angle grinder 😳🙈

[@kookylook2071]

Inductor heater, air chisel. Quick and neat no flange damage.

[@alan4x]

😊

[@richardwatkins6725]

Each to there own but that ceramic cat matrix is taking a hammering.

[@edsilva1955]

Ever heard about WD-40 😂

[@garybrown5500]

Top tip Alan. Got to laugh at the people getting all sensitive about the slit left in the exhaust. It can easily be welded! As for drilling the stud well they'd be there a long time. Those studs get bloody hard with all the heat cycles!

[@chrisnewell-7758]

cobalt drill, lube and slow speed lol

[@garybrown5500]

@@chrisnewell-7758 Post up a video show us! LOL

[@N269]

So, cut a groove/slit, bash the sucker out, can't use a new stud, still need a bolt... oh, yeah, and waste time welding?! Just drill the sucker and use a bolt. What a waste of time! Might have tried a 2-prong puller as a pusher (if it was small enuff to fit in there).

[@waynebeck7801]

Wouldn’t it be easier to grind the stud flush and drill it out?

[@patkelly7999]

Great job Alan, every day is a learning day, Thank You👌👍

[@robertboykin1828]

I'm 80, retired mechanic, dun fixin that old junk. Now I trade that crap in.

[@PaweMusia]

Great tip Alan! when i did mine downpipe on my Mk3 Mondeo couple years back, nuts on the catalytic converter end were so rotted that they looked like 2 layers of tin foin wrapped around the stud. luckily threads were saveable ;)

[@melbournechugging2999]

Just heat the back of the stud until it's red hot then use an air hammer to push it out

[@oldtimefarmboy617]

The heat from the exhaust will constantly heat treat the bolts, studs and nuts, and attract moisture that will cause them to rust and corrode and chemically weld the parts together. There should be a rule that requires the manufacturer to use something like anti-seize/never-seize that will prevent the pieces from welding together and rusting and corroding.

[@nilsthemis]

An old clip, but anyway: It's a standard pressed in stud. The best way to remove them is to press them back out. If you can't bring it to a work bench an improvised tool can be made from nuts, bolts and some scrap steel. But OK, that's a bit fiddly. In this case propane torch heating and tapping it with some heavy object backing the flange up is suggested. Banging on things without backing is not very effective and can easily cause damage.

[@DevJB]

YES ! Exactly. :fist bump:

[@markk8225]

Suggestion: After cutting the flange, insert a chisel in the groove and give the chisel a sharp tap or two to slightly expand the groove. NOW the bolt should tap right out.

[@alan4x]

that is a really good idea, cheers

[@johnfry8737]

😂if you have a oxy acal torch heat cherry red quench with ice cold water put wrench on turn it out shock. Loosen up every time old welders trick works every time

[@anthonyiannone7618]

A tie rod puller may have been able to press that stud out without bending the flange , just a thought

[@timhancock6626]

One of those little electric induction heaters might do the trick by applying heat locally to the stud, but cutting a slot makes complete sense anyway.

[@hydewhyte4364]

I have one and love it, but to get enough heat into a flange like that you'll be there all day. You can't operate them for more than 1 minute at a time of they shut down and take 5 minutes to reset. So 30 seconds on, 15 seconds off, until you get enough into it .... They're really good for nuts, but anything bigger you really need a torch.

[@joe10toes]

I love google subtitles..."here we have a mark free Ford mondeo" 😂😂😂

[@elsperger52]

Old Hundai Accent/Elantra?...flange bolts had no hex heads just hard welds on the inside towards the cat (bad angle) Ground off n then spent hrs breaking cobalt n CARBIDE drilling rest out.

[@danb4530]

Utilised this method today and it worked an absolute treat, thanks Alan!

[@marktompkins8519]

Hey I just tried your method, want to say THANK YOU! Broken stud on the manifold to the exhaust pipe, (1999 Jeep TJ 2.5) just enough room for the angle grinder, then finished the cut with a hack saw blade (hand held). Punched it out, new nut and bolt, only took maybe 45 minutes. Thanks again!

[@bobabraham5060]

Dremel tool with a grinding blade will make a much thinner slot. Might take a bit longer but it will do the job and you won’t lose as much material.

[@nickaxe771]

What would a thinner slot gain....its still a slot.

[@enoz.j3506]

I angle gring all the way through the bolt to the back,makes it so much easier,less banging & stressing parts.

[@neilobusk]

Exhausting work for sure...:) N x

[@12demention]

brake fluid will guarantee work no cutting,Best bolt loosened on the planet.2 to 8hr soak time need

[@JoelFrakes-ny7vc]

Mine has 3. When attempting to remove The exhaust to install new CV axles no my Nissan, I broke two of the three off of the exhaust flange. Now I have to fix the bolts by drilling them and then rethreading the flange. It's going to be a pain in the ass.

[@joeedwards627]

I’ve had a garage for 30 years, the only proper way is oxy acetylene and a proper garage will have oxy acetylene, and just for the record they definitely wouldn’t have been 14 or 15 mm nuts, anyway whatever works for you, good luck

[@tazmun]

I consider heat for this type of work a necessity and if you don’t have it, you need to get it that. Most heat all over only enhancing the problem. What you need to do is only heat of very narrow strip on the end of the loop around the bolt. I admit the cutting isn’t a bad idea, but I think you cut too wide a swathe weakening the bracket too much. I would’ve used either and much narrower cut off wheel or maybe a reciprocating sawblade made out of carbide. I also would’ve used the cutting torch to cut off the backend of the stud.

[@shawazonfire]

thank you sir

[@garymills7494]

Great video. Most manifold studs are stainless steel, which still corrodes at the elevated temperatures they see.

[@gymgym3337]

I’ve got a better solution for that. Heat it up until and then pour cold water on it then hit it a few times and I’ll come right out.

[@andybramwell9179]

Did this today...I tried drilling out but it was woukd have taken hours. I cut a groove with the grinder. Job done. Than you so much.

[@makeitpay8241]

you need better drill bits not junk high speed steel those are only for mild steel not hardened studs.

[@jasondinscore4251]

You fucking rock mate!!! I thought that was going to be a much harder chore.

[@alan4x]

lol, glad it helped

[@scoobgirl]

got some studs like that causing me misery , thought it was welded on cut the head off hit with hammer and still not budged , trying this next, stay tuned haha

[@scoobgirl]

worked a treat thanks

[@scmiata99]

Pb blaster help out alot!!!

[@alan4x]

😁

[@pauljanssen7594]

Actually you can get a bolt puller unusual looking tool but instead of using penetrating oil you heat up the area of the stud or bolt use paraffin wax as a it doesn't burn off like paraffin wax. Of course this is pressed in stud usually has one comment said you cut the stud off drill it partly out you say drift to knock it out.

[@jimhenderson2308]

I had the exact same thing happen and bent the flange. I'm going to do what you suggest and attempt to bend the flange back. Another way is to cut the stud off and drill a hole thru it and use a mini hack saw to cut a slot in the wall thickness left from drilling the hole. This will spare the slot in the flange.

[@dave-huston-dublin]

Check the lower gearbox mount.

[@SJR275]

What about cutting the bold off and drilling it out?

[@philtucker1224]

Those cats are very expensive so personally I would not cut it or hit it with a big hammer. Cheaper to just drill out the old stud and fit a not and bolt instead..

[@merlin5476]

Perhaps to save bending the flange you could have taken the exhaust off and held it in a vice before wacking it with the hammer !

[@josephhalwagy6435]

Great seeing you back Alan and thank you for sharing

[@manosparavida3551]

Another method would be a reputable 3" G-clamp with m8 nuts to act as a spacer with an additional nut on what remains of the stud thread and merely wind the clamp in to push the stud out.

[@alan4x]

👍

[@cosmicallyderived]

If you’re going to hammer it cut it down some so it won’t want to bend because the radium arm will be so short.

[@umarmujaahid1136]

What with the jack stands? Onto car lift? 🤔🙄 I don't know about that, it seems to be dangerous waiting for disaster. Anyway carry on. 😕

[@alan4x]

lol

[@ryanhathcock184]

Use a c clamp as a press with a good wrench for a cheater handle they come right out

[@jimgiordano2576]

Next time try to cut the bolt off flush with the flange .then use an air chisel punch to drive out the remaining stud..

[@arthouston7361]

That’s the same English accent as Producer-Director Ben Dover.

[@darrentylor5473]

It fused via heat, and it will leave via heat... always... Torch on buddy

[@mg8718]

Replace the pipe with a new pipe and new muffler. Its gonna be the next to go out anyway.

[@Rmahaffey714]

Hey this worked flawlessly for me thank you so much

[@hotlips36]

that sucks you ruined the flange i take a tourch and melt the head off the stud and heat it up and punch out the stud and put new nut and bolt and flange is fine

[@JordanBurnett-mf4yn]

This doesn't affect the effectiveness of the new bolt/nut getting a good seal?

[@ofeliawotsits6080]

No need to butcher the flange, this was an easy drill out situation.

[@psdaengr911]

I'd have used an angle grinder to remove the head and projecting stud and drilled it, but this way looks easier. Only issue is that the exposed threads within the flange cut are a rust accelerator, and the location is already known to be a rapid rusting problem. To stop that, maybe apply antiseize on the "entrapped" thread then use JBWeld to stuff the slot with the new bolt in place?

[@alan4x]

😊

[@sweetbeat7]

Strip all the rust off with acid then soak in oil, then a little hot torch it will fall out on its own.

[@knutknutsen5610]

This does not actually look like a stud bolt. It has a head on it. Stud bolts are treaded at both ends.

[@CLIFTYPOPS]

Alan how many miles can the 2 litre duratec engine and its gearbox go before they start going bad?

[@tcmits3699]

Just don't get who thought a wheel stud was a better idea than a plain nut and bolt🤔Nice job on the simple slot👍

[@alan4x]

nuts and bolts would be so much easier

[@philtucker1224]

There seems to be enough room to just drill it right through and just fit a good nut and bolt.

[@frednetherlands887]

Good tip. Thank you.

[@Normandy1944]

Good idea, though I thought you were going to knock a slot big enough to hammer the stud out downward...hint, another way to accomplish this feat. Also, as far as you only went with the one cut groove, would be to put a hardened pry bar in their to pry it and relieve some of the tension of the rust on the stud and then bashing it out with less concern of bending the flange. Barring the size of the bar, you could apply pressure to the slot and give it a bash with the 3 lb maul.

[@patrickhenigin4805]

Don't force it, get a bigger hammer. Hey! Stay away from my car.

[@MegaReddevil71]

I drilled mine out but those bolts seem to get hardened with age and a bitch to drill out thats a good idea

[@westcoast3595]

Cut it a little wider and the stud will fall out. Stuff in the new bolt and it’s all good.

[@x-man5056]

Good method. The only remaining question is; why aren't you changing the rusty muffler out also? It can't be any better inside than the studs on the outside. That would also negate the need for removing that stud.

[@AJ-qn6gd]

That was the catalytic converter !

[@jra55417]

@@AJ-qn6gderm. No. It was the centre silencer. You can see him fit a brand new cat to it at the end of the vid

[@rts19851]

Could have just used an outer tierod removal tool.

[@eddiehiggins1714]

Induction heating works much faster cleaner and smarter. It's 2024, come on

[@alan4x]

😊

[@liviustelianbotanoiu906]

Thank you for this! I really enjoy watching your videos, they are full of knowledge. Would the shocks caused by the hammer not damage the catalytic converter?

[@kevinpalmer7452]

That’s how I do them Allen like you say quickest and easiest way👍

[@johnbower]

I certainly would not want iron sparks sprayed into the under body of my car causing rust to form , quickest way is rarely the best way, drilling the stud out is the best method.

[@JohnnyWrench-u4o]

Bloody peaky Blinders 😂

[@billsmith305]

Why didn't you turn the stud after cutting ?

[@luke2042]

Good work!

[@DarrenSteele-mx3ks]

That was great!

[@austinholt9673]

get a guard for your grinder

[@Ocho474]

What if I just hammered the bolt out? Would it work or nah?

[@alan4x]

no you would bend the flange

[@noskills9577]

Respect the flange.

[@drummer4hire24]

Awesome tip Mate.... worked like a charm. A bit of Penetrating oil while it was warm may have helped also.

[@alan4x]

thanks drummer

[@theronwolf3296]

Couple of thoughts Good to see eye protection, but really angle grinder in close quarters should use ear protection as well. Use good penetrating rust solvent and leave in place for several hours. Makes a big difference.

[@sickvick83]

Use some wd40 too would help

[@chefabhishek16]

Thank you for the idea.