Alex Honnold Defies the Rules of Climbing || Climbing Gold Podcast w/Alex Honnold

Рет қаралды 29,167

Күн бұрын

We all know Alex Honnold pushes the limits of free solo climbing, but most of his time on rock is spent with safety gear, a rope, and a rack, believe it or not. But he isn't always the most keen on doing things by the book. In this clip, Alex, Fitz Cahall, Lauren DeLaunay Miller, and editor of "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" Pete Takeda discuss when its safe to break the rules.
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Пікірлер: 24

@khalilcolgrove1906 10 ай бұрын

Everyone here missing the point, can be summed up with use your head don’t blindly apply principles…

@brendansheehan7198 10 ай бұрын

“Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist.” .- Pablo Picasso

@markon6909 10 ай бұрын

...goes also with the music and improvising. Learn the theory and forget it until you need it. And every time you need it, you will loose some fluidity and naturalness from your playing, the flow in other words. Being dogmatic means letting yourself to get between yourself and your experience...

@libertine5606 10 ай бұрын

There's nothing "safe". There is risk and the spectrum of it. Accidents/incidents are chain events. Break a link in the chain and the accident/incident doesn't happen. This is the very dangerous part of it. You could do something and think it is "safe", however, change something else and all the links in the chain are there and there is a accident.

@sket179 10 ай бұрын

I'm not sure, but I think what they're talking about is that they try to stick to the ideal safest way to climb/belay with consideration of saving time and necessities of each route. Sometimes you need to hurry up because weather is getting bad or dark, and some routes don't allow for ideal belaying. I don't think they are wilfully negligent and put themselves into more risk without getting some important as tradeoff.

@linksgrunversifft4270 10 ай бұрын

Everyone seems to know a story where safety measures lead to fatal consequences and use that as an excuse to abandon them alltogether. But I bet any amount, ill equipped, unexperienced and ignoring safety are responsible for the huge majority of accidents. You might be fine breaking rules, but you‘re world class climbers with tons of experience, so please don’t make it seem a good idea to do so. Because that’s what comes accross

@DavidGoldstein-tk3kb 10 ай бұрын

Well said - and the other explanation for accidents is overconfidence, which this video seems to encourage…because these folks have earned the luxury of being overconfident.

@Doctor_Yuri 10 ай бұрын

You're literally repeating what they said: "You might be fine breaking rules, but you‘re world class climbers with tons of experience". Do you have poor listening comprehension?

@nilsp9426 2 ай бұрын

When I think about safety in mountain climbing, I always have to think of the Everest "tourists" vs. the Everest "pros". The tourists endanger the lifes of dozens of Sherpas, are way too long in dangerous territory, but try to shield themselves as much as possible with expensive gear. The "pros" have trained hard to be quick and efficient on the mountain if needed, and to rely less on the help of others. So they pass dangerous sections quickly, are not as long in the death zone above 8000m, carry much less gear that holds them back, do not block the route as much for others, are physiologically more resilient, etc. etc. Most of all, pros know their boundaries much better than those who try to pay themselves up the mountain. Being humble, realistic, but not scared is probably a good way to not get in trouble everywhere in life. I think we have learned way to much to rely on gear and equipment to be safe in our lives, instead of trying to become more of an expert on judging the situation, being physically fit, dealing with stressful situations, etc.

@sket179 10 ай бұрын

There are some hairy videos from the UK about trad routes where they say that there's an unprotected section from which they cannot fall. While I understand the call of the route, I'm not there yet and probably never will be, where I consciously climb a route where I know an error of mine or just circumstances result in losing my life. Like going to a crag and leaving a goodbye letter behind, just in case.

@hoffmanfiles 10 ай бұрын

If you understand, you understand.

@johnhutchinson8611 9 ай бұрын

@markstevenson6635 10 ай бұрын

So, one time a person was betrayed by their helmet so no one should wear a helmet? I heard that parachutes sometimes fail....that seatbelts occasionally trap someone in a burning car .... etc

@williamnicolas122 10 ай бұрын

Did you even listen? The whole video is about things not being black and white....

@Jooshyb 10 ай бұрын

The point is that even the simple things like always wearing a helmet doesn't always apply. He at no point advocated to not wear helmets. He simply just gave an example where wearing a helmet isn't useful dogma and is instead harmful

@nilsp9426 2 ай бұрын

@@williamnicolas122 It was also some kind of post-hoc rectification of his own behavior, instead of him repeating that in principle you should wear a helmet.

@dougdavis8986 10 ай бұрын

Doing the right thing creates favorable results much more frequently than not.

@Outsidersman 10 ай бұрын

Was really interested to hear the guys' negative view of ATCs for sport climbing there days. Where I climb (London and SE England), if say seeing a grigri is the exception and ATCs are the norm. Maybe it's a hangover from our sketchy trad ways or maybe Brits are just cheap, but I've heard the argument made (I think compellingly) that an ATC forces you to pay more attention compared to a grigri, making accidents less likely.

@carlosdumbratzen6332 10 ай бұрын

Yeah, I learned climbing in Saxony and learned belaying with a munter hitch and placing protection only with knots. When I moved to North Germany I was told that I was crazy, that doing this was absolutely dangerous and stupid of my climbing instructor (I started climbing when I was 12 years old). Now I prefer ATCs over GriGris because they give me a more similar feeling to the munter hitch. Also the less mechanical components there the less likely it is that one of the fails.