Old generator restoration/repair/service

The generator engine is Villiers F15 Four-Stroke 1.5 BHP. 1933s
The generator is Gardiner Marshall 1.5 KVA
I bought this generator together with wood lathe machine that i restored in my previous video.I bought it with just 10 pounds because the previous owner had it in the garage for many years and hasn't been used for the last couple of years to.When I brought it home I checked if its working and i noticed that has spark ,compression but was refusing to start and I thought that has some fuel issues.So because i didn't have problems with spark and compression I did not removed the flywheel to timing and piston rings to replace them just to be replaced.I bought original oil bath air filter because I found steel wool soaked in oil to act as air filter.
Thank you for watching.to support me please subscribe my channel.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

I always use gas/petrol for cleaning and maybe some lacquer thinner and compressed air for stubborn carb jets that I can't access easily. Sweet little genset you have now. The bum carb gasket was causing it to suck air and run lean and steel wool works just fine for a filter medium. CHEERS!

[@themowerman]

wow mate you did a fantastic jo on this old girl

[@andyash5675]

Quite mad to see an alternator with selenium rectifiers. Great vid.

[@fukgoogle9505]

Look like a Celinium rectifier ( small object in generator cap with fins) and celinium can be cancer causing. Outside should be ok but be aware. Good video.

[@patjohnson3100]

Oven cleaner to clean the engine is a good tip. Zip ties as spring compressors are a great idea. Very good job rescuing this venerable engine/generator. I notice it's all metal. This makes it a better candidate for rescue than modern engines. Too much plastic, so people throw them away when they break. Smiles and regards from the USA.

[@rexharvey8420]

A painstaking restoration of a nice little geni!

[@AlexBRestoration]

Thanks

[@anthonykent7983]

I had that same type engine in a old go cart. Great job. Take care from Yorkshire!

[@timeatak5248]

It’s called a “ side valve engine “ or a “flat head engine.

[@alexeyparamonov2503]

Понравилось! 👍 Успехов!

[@michaelbenoit248]

I like that flywheel cutout so you can get to the points much easier. Cool engine, I’ve seen old B&S Kohler K series, Wisconsin, Tecumseh, but never a Villiers

[@nestorr2739]

Por fin alguien que sabe desarmar,corregir e interpretar la mecánica.Mi respeto desde Argentina.

[@garymucher9590]

Really nice refurbish effort. Never seen one like that but great job bringing it back to life. Thumbs Up!

[@Maxpower-lg3ju]

I love how you show us how to do this the right way

[@AlexBRestoration]

Thank you for comment 🍺🍺

[@briansworkshop01]

Fantastic job looking great thanks for sharing your time and skill and remember#stay safe and make. 🍺🍺👍👍

[@AlexBRestoration]

Thanks🍺🍺

[@dvddale111]

THe correct way to grind the ends of valves to get tappet setting is to dril a verticle hole in a small block of wood and grind it down on an oilstone. Grinding that exhaust valve area face down looked poor, there should be a thin unbroken grey line, I didn't see one. You use about ten times more grinding paste than I do. The slot in the inlet valve head is for a screwdriver. No need to stone head and cylinder top faces, that's what the gasket is for, otherwise you'd not need one. I hate seeing brass parts loosened by pliers, but it's your machine, not mine.

[@DanielH]

Awesome work

[@jodido7804]

Excellent work, congratulations

[@barthanes1]

Nice rebuild.

[@tonyday7233]

Lovely machine, lovely job.

[@AlexBRestoration]

🍺🍺

[@debabratabhattacharyya9451]

Good job 👌 it's a beautiful engine

[@AlexBRestoration]

Thanks 🍺🍺🍺

[@ivancruzluque2795]

Exelente trabajo a un solo cuerdazo bro

[@derw3676]

very nice

[@robertobezerra8376]

Lindo trabalho parabéns.

[@robertbowman3406]

Maybe an oil changing pan would come in handy for washing all the parts in.

[@robertburley8703]

Get yourself a decent set of whitworth spanners

[@Thegeek1985]

Just rebuilding one of these. We have intermittent spark goes out after a while and no AC output. Any ideas on find wiring diagrams for the generator ?

[@AlexBRestoration]

Thank you for watching my video,I don't know where can you find the diagram, maybe check on google.

[@asya9493]

Gloves would be good, some of that goop is dangerous.

[@AlexBRestoration]

Thank you for advice 🙏 🍺🍺

[@davidabbott5665]

which you could help with mine , having problems with the points. great vidio

[@dposer10]

Is Villiers the Briggs and Stratton of England? Also the piston doesn't come up to the top of the bore is that normal?

[@x84pav84x]

Странно, что у клапанов нет нормальных регулировочных винтов.

[@x84pav84x]

15:21 на плите шлифуют, а не так. Чтобы равномерно было.

[@1700iDiGuy]

Do you have the name/model number of the generator head? I have one and i am a bit confused at how it is wired up

[@AlexBRestoration]

Hi,thank you for comment. It's gardiner marshall 1.5kwa

[@1700iDiGuy]

@@AlexBRestoration thank you! Mines making 110v on the red to black and 110v on the yellow to blue i need to work out what combination is required to make 230v

[@woodhonky3890]

no load test?

[@Maxpower-lg3ju]

What oil do you use for the carburettor???

[@AlexBRestoration]

Engine oil castrol sae 30

[@Maxpower-lg3ju]

Thank you

[@Thanhdat3]

Hello

[@barthanes1]

Mmmmmm... asbestos gaskets.

[@susankelly7778]

Oh my goodness, where DO i start!! First off.....please PLEASE use GLOVES and a FACE/MOUTH/NOSE covering/s when dealing with any VINTAGE or OLDER small engines using this type of Gasket material, as the risk of ASBESTOS type material is MUCH GREATER than today's type of material's, so you MUST KEEP AND STAY SAFE with this particular type of item ALONE!! 2ND.....I've no objection to your use of petrol to clean parts, i use old and '''out of date''' petrol/diesel regularly to clean parts on my chainsaw/mower/grass strimmer, as i have no access to a parts cleaner, and cannot afford one, but--(AGAIN!)--please, PLEASE use GLOVES and a MOUTH/NOSE/FACE covering when using LIQUID PETROLEUM PRODUCTS, such as petrol OR diesel, AND.....DISPOSE OF YOUR said products CAREFULLY/RESPONSABLY/SAFELY.....YOUR SAFETY FIRST.....ALWAY'S!! OK.....now for the shitty bits!! PLEASE try to use the proper tool for the job?: A pair of steel/metal Pliers is NOT the tool for undoing BRASS NUTS, or BRASS NUTS AND BOLTS, or SCREWS!! The correct tool for that type of operation is a SPANNER, or a RING SPANNER, used SLOWLY, with the addition--(if needed)--of a little WD40, or a little light oil like 3in1, or some heat used beforehand, to loosen stuck brass items like brass nut/bolts or screws. Brass, like Copper, is a soft metal and both do not do well when using steel or other metals against them IN FORCE. As to your ''lapping'' of the valve stems and seats, i feel you should have worked a little more on the exhaust valve seat, as that seat looked to be the most particularly pitted/corroded. Also, you used FAR too much lapping compound on both seats and valves.....most people use just the ''fine'' compound to lap valves with, but in your case i could see the reason why you used the coarse compound for the exhaust seat.....it really needed it, but still, it was too much.....''Less is More'', as they say nowaday's!?! I am so sorry to be going on, it is not you personaly Alex B, ok!?! The main shaft should of been taken out, the bearings/shaft should of been checked for alighment/wear, also the bearing shells for wear, as well as the cam followers too, and the piston body, the gudgeon--(WRIST PIN, for the Americas!!)--pin, and asociated rings. (In fact, the whole of the insides of the engine should have been torn apart, cleaned and checked for any wear/damage to any part, and then cleaned thoroughly, and then TORQUED TO SPEC in my humble opinion, which doesn't count for much and never did as far as i know anyway!) Next, TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS/USAGE!!! ALEX, you really MUST get yourself a cheap TORQUE WRENCH for the bolts and nuts that you have to tighten to specification on your next rebuilds and restorations of small engines and the like! It really is NOT ENOUGH that you, or other people, just ''torque'' nuts and bolts down with power tools, (or, in some cases, using a ''breaker bar'' and some ''force''!!). ''TORQUING'' nuts and bolts should be done AS TO THE MANUFACTURERS SPECIFICATIONS, many of which can be found for any particular model, quite readily online, GOOGLE for one! ALEX.....I thank you for your time in reading this, as i do other contributors to your channel who may also have left a comment, or read this, my diatribe!! It is in the hope that you can ''pick up'' not just my little ''hints and tips'', but also other peoples hints, tips and advise too. The ''small engine community'' is growing, and YOU, a main contributor, should be growing with it. PLEASE, remember what i have said, ALWAYS with regards to YOUR safety, and the SAFETY of others, and PLEASE,remember what other, like minded small engine enthusiasts have said with regards to your channel Kind regards from MIKKY, FROM NORTH EAST SCOTLAND!! (On his wifes computer.....Shsss!!!)