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While there are many higher mountains in Peru, few are as famous as Alpamayo, known for its near-perfect pyramidal form and steep fluted faces. In fact, Alpinismus touted it "The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World" in one of its editions in 1966. It is the raw beauty, and technical challenge of Alpamayo that draws mountaineers from all over the world. When I decide on an expedition, I generally prioritize the aesthetic mountains over the highest, which made Alpamayo an essential item on my bucket list.
However, climbing to the top of Alpamayo was not a goal that presented itself easily. I attempted it one other time in July of 2022, but was sidelined by poor health and even worse weather and snow conditions. A year later I felt motivated to try again. This video retraces my steps on my second, and successful, attempt in July of 2023. Both trips were organized by Andean Raju Adventures, a local company based in Huaraz, Peru, employing some of the best mountain guides, expedition cooks, and porters in South America.
An Alpamayo Expedition typically lasts six or seven days, and begins at the small town of Cashapampa, where you enter Huascaran National Park. From there you follow the route of the Santa Cruz trek and stay at Llama Corral on Night 1, Continue to Alpamayo Base Camp on Day 2, Ascend to Moraine Camp on Day 3, do a steep glacier climb up to High Camp on Day 4, and push for the summit on Day 5. The summit push is by far the most physically and mentally demanding portion of the expedition, involving 6-7 pitches of ice climbing up a narrow corridor that reaching 70-80 degrees near the top. Over the final two days, expedition groups will normally retrace their steps back to Cashapampa. In my case, I continued to another mountain, Artesonraju, which will be the subject for another vlog.
0:00 Introduction
1:26 Day 1- Cashapampa to Llama Corral
5:25 Day 3- Alpamayo Base Camp to Moraine Camp
8:24 Day 4- Moraine camp to High Camp
10:42 High Camp Drone Flight
11:30 Day 5- Summit Day
12:59 Summit sequence
15:35 Descent to High Camp and then Base Camp
17:29 Day 6- Rest Day
18:14 Ending
18:47 Bloopers
Music is an essential part of producing these vlogs, as it helps capture the feelings I wish to convey. I am thankful for the artists who provide royalty free music, and I am including the sources to the tracks contained in this video below:
100 Seconds by Punch Deck | / punch-deck
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Heroism by MaxKoMusic | maxkomusic.com/
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Meditative Space by MaxKoMusic | maxkomusic.com/
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Peru Andean Acoustic by Onoychenko. The track was legally obtained from Icons8's Fugue website: icons8.com/music
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Legendary Epic Heroic Cinematic Music | Heroic by Alex-Productions | onsound.eu/
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Calendar by Vlad Gluschenko | / vgl9
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A Kind Of Hope by Scott Buckley | / scottbuckley
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i dreamed of you last night by ikkun (ex. Barradeen) | / ikkunwastaken
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