Alternator Rebuild, Inc Part Numbers. Project Fairlady, The Nissan Z32 300zx Twin Turbo Mega Build

[@ChevySuburbanLiving]

Looking forward to the next video

[@macbain7230]

Great detail, thanks for taking the time to inform us all on how do to it. Oh, and inspire too!

[@tonybritain251]

Best z32 channel on utube he explains everything in layman’s terms keep up the good work

[@boomstyk4urboo]

I did aviation component maintenance in America's Marine Corps. The way you went in depth was reminiscent of the 'pubs' we read to fix components.

[@TheAussieShed]

Thanks Dom, you're to Kind. Cheers Mate.

[@joell439]

Shocking 😉 how nasty that alternator was to start with. Thanks mate for the tutorial. definitely inspiring. Cheers 👍👍😎👍👍

[@hartsmanuell]

Just about to order bearings and regulator for my spare alt, thanks for the always informative guide aussieshed!

[@TheAussieShed]

Pleasure Mate, glad you found it helpful.

[@rickymale8203]

Looking good mate 👍

[@TheAussieShed]

Thanks Ricky, Cheers.

[@doscucharas]

Very nice 👌

[@TheAussieShed]

Thanks Mate, Cheers.

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing 👍

[@TheAussieShed]

Thanks Craig, Cheers Mate.

[@jordansapountzis3873]

Thanks mate. Absolutely loving the content. Found u the other day and im utterly impressed!

[@MiniLuv-1984]

As you were cleaning the alternator parts it occurred to me that an electric motor to replace the entire engine/gearbox would not be that much bigger (maybe 3 - 5 x as big?) - no regulator either or brushes. Imagine too having four such motors, say 150 to 200 kW each one driving a wheel - Rivian style. What a monster the Fairlady would be (though I guess she will be a monster regardless). I think, the reason you solder the regulator in after you've bolted it down is to reduce the stress on the solder joints to the rectifier.

[@larzblast]

That's exactly why you solder after bolting it in.

[@TheAussieShed]

Exactly Benny, not happy I missed showing that bit though. Cheers Mate.

[@sjz4543]

Great videos, Trevor! I used to rebuild alternators as part of my job in an automotive machine shop. This brought back memories. You’ll find a little extra in your beer-money pot this week. Cheers! Steve

[@TheAussieShed]

Thanks so much Steve, really appreciate that. You're a Legend.

[@kimber1958]

Wow

[@TheAussieShed]

Cheers Kimber, Thanks Mate.

[@kanbeeisu]

Hey Trevor, best Z content!! being following your build for a while now, very inspirational, motivates me to continue building mine. I wanted to asked you where did you get the rebuild Kit? Best, Pedro

[@TheAussieShed]

G'day Pedro, unfortunately I couldn't find anyone that makes an actual rebuild kit for the TT Alternator. The Bearings can be had from any Bearing supplier, or from Ebay. The Regulator was from Maniac Electric Motors, I think they have an Ebay store too. Cheers Mate.

[@codasinmurry]

👍

[@TheAussieShed]

Cheers Gary.

[@brianheiden6623]

Nice man just subscribed do the same for me brother. My z32 has always had belt squeal so may belts and tightening it all the time. Recently noticed it does it when I turn headlights on. Always thought it was my aluminium underdrive pulley that made it squeal. A quick couple revs usually cures it but its so dam annoying and a never ending issue. I'm wondering if bearings are dry and squeel until it gets moving a bit and moves the old dry grease around. I have an allumonium alternator pulley to. Scratching my head for 20 years on this. Fully built motor and car but can't cure the squeal. Thanks for the vid apreciate it. Great job keep up the good work mate!

[@HansFormerlyTraffer]

When I attack car parts I use a big hammer...

[@TheAussieShed]

Hans... don't be such a Brute. Sometimes there's Merit to a Gentle touch, particularly with the Ladies, lol. Cheers Mate.