Aluminum Cabinetry - Part 3: Shopping List | Ultimate Guide to 8020 Aluminum Extrusion

[@rokyerefinsoxoff]

Very helpful. Thanks for posting!

[@taratucker8194]

Oh my gosh, I wish I had found your videos sooner! By far the most useful videos when planning out cabinetry. I have already wasted time trying to figure out all the fasteners and hardware. But now I don’t have to waste any more! Thank you for your videos! So helpful!

[@kpbarbee]

Great series of videos. Learned a lot! And love the Star Wars background!

[@ArvidDarmond]

A couple of ideas for those bottom rails where you used two butted pieces. You could slide connectors into the 3 unused slots, like the long 3 hole t-nuts. Use short screws that don't protrude. And then stagger the short and long pieces so they don't join at the same place. For example start the long piece in the back from the left and the long piece for the front from the right.

[@johntatman9168]

I can not believe that with all the time you have invested in figuring this all out that you still have the interest in doing this series of videos. You are a patient man. That said I don't believe using this material is worth it. I do have wood working experience and I feel fairly certain I can build the same cabinet with equal strength that will be very close in weight and for a fraction of the cost especially since wood has come back down in cost. I find assembling the 80-20 to be a pain in the rear, at best, even with practice. However, your series will be very helpful for those attempting to use this material. Thanks for all your hard work.

[@diycargotrailer]

I sorta agree after doing this. I’m tired of working with the stuff. I’d do it with wood if I went back

[@RussW.]

Just starting working with AL extrusion and your videos, 1, 2 & 3 were very helpful and informative. Thank you for posting!

[@rsitch1]

Wow! I am so glad that your video was so packed with real information . Thank you for sharing your project…. Bob

[@maruselu]

Sir, I am forever grateful for this video and all the research, trial and error you must have gone through. Planning to also use 10 series for a small camper build. I am a bit worry to use it for the bed, not knowing if is strong enough for 2 people. Still debating that. Again, very informative. Thank you!

[@ac14081408]

This series will get hundreds of thousands of views. Thank you good sir.

[@carterscustomrods]

lol 😂😂😂

[@emersonkk33]

I follow a lot of these type of channels, mainly because I plan to build out my own cargo trailer. Just found, subscribed and binge watched all (12) of your videos. You are doing a fantastic job on your vids and build. Looking forward to seeing many more vids from you guys. I'm much more inclined to use wood (but I do have a f-350, so weight isn't an issue for the most part) but I think these aluminum extrusions can come in handy in several applications on the build. I really appreciate not only your time and effort into all the research but also for sharing it all with us.

[@diycargotrailer]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@paulsanders1]

Soooo helpful, thanks so much! Bought a bunch of 15 series long bars on CL and couldn't find any fasteners, so thanks again for all the tips! Paul

[@groomingtable]

Great info. Spot on!

[@davidmontana3565]

Well, done! Really like the information and the explanations to your decisions.

[@diycargotrailer]

Glad it was helpful!

[@SuckItYouTube19]

You should have taken advantage of the "machining option" Tnutz has on the extrusion you chose page. And that woukd have also helped you with your "screws," aka bolts, difficulties. 😂

[@raemclellan7693]

How did you secure the screws from the expected moving vehicle's vibrations? Did you use lock washers and/or locktite on your threads? Same question for your panels, did you just slide wood into the extrusions, or did you use flexible gasket inserts or silicone caulking to prevent vibration rattle?

[@th235]

Thanks for sharing this. I am building a simple frame to mount a 100w solar panel to the top rack of my Subaru outback. I am living off grid in S Utah at the moment and so it’s challenging to get info with my smartphone. Ideally I would like to find 1/4x20 button head screws and t nuts in stainless steel. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

[@shaggymo6618]

Great videos very helpful you did say you would make your aluminium sketchup file available is it posible to have a link ?

[@patrickmckowen2999]

Great info 👍

[@goactivemedia]

How are you going to cover the frames with wood ? Or what for cabinet doors and so on. Cant wait to see how you do the rest of it. I will be doing a lot of this as well soon this is helping a lot. Thanks

[@TommyShlong]

Thanks so much for posting all this info on building 80/20 aluminum. I was looking for info on this to build a PC monitor stand and found your videos and parts links really helpful. One suggestion I have for you deals with using steel screws and aluminum t-nuts. Because they're different metals you run the risk of those parts seizing and getting stuck pretty much permanently (chances are you'll strip the screw head before removing the screw). The way to deal with this is to apply grease to the screw threads so that you can get them out later. You can use good quality lithium grease. It won't cause the screws to loosen but will allow you to remove them when you want.

[@samengle8068]

thank you

[@markmccann2797]

Corey thank you SO much for your videos! This one in particular was a life-saver, as I'm getting ready to order 10 series 8020 extrusion & hardware for my van build. I'm building a wheelchair van / mobile classroom / RV for my daughter... and classes begin soon (no pressure LOL). So your tips on materials & hardware have been enormously helpful. If you have a moment to confirm -- it looks as if you used 1/4-20 screws with those 2020 gussetted corner brackets from Amazon? I just wanted to make sure I was getting that right. I ask because it appears that the shank diameter on a 1/4-20 screw (according to the info I'm finding online -- don't have any of them in-hand yet) is just over 6 mm, and the seller's diagram of those corner brackets shows the holes the screws are going through as 6 mm. Once again, thanks so much for sharing the knowledge gained from trial & error so that those following after can avoid the frustration! If you (or anyone else) can confirm that the 1/4-20 screws will work with those 2020 corner pieces, all the more gratitude!

[@neilreid5]

Bye button heads and any other bolts from Fasteners shop by the box are cheap. Can't get tnus though.

[@DJJCHA]

What is the weight Capacity of the unity you built?

[@joegenshlea4605]

I'm designing a much simpler cabinet using 8020 extrusions and have sketched everything using pencil and paper. Man, would love a technical overview of how to use sketchup the way you did. I found a template (?) of series 10 8020 extrusions' but I have no idea how to use it. Do you do any paid tutorials?

[@goactivemedia]

Do you put any lock tight on everything so they do not rattle apart when on the road?

[@diycargotrailer]

No locktite

[@burtonkent4549]

You totally left out how to mount panels/facing to the extrusion. I was waiting for this through all 3 videos. Appreciate knowing what hardware to buy though.

[@patrickschardt7724]

There’s no right or wrong way to assemble but there ways to reduce hassle, tear down, etc. Before building, “preload” plates and brackets… loosely attach the screws to the parts and t-nuts. Then slide them into the the t-slot when ready to do that part of the assembly. Also preload t-nuts into extrusions where needed. Avoid long extrusions if possible.

[@xlr8offroad]

This is fantastic info. Thank you! Question... do you think 10 series will support a twin bed. 200lb single person? Say, 75x28". Thanks!

[@diycargotrailer]

Easily. Theres a tool on the 8020 website that allows testing of weights. But yea 10 series would hole one person no prob depending on how long of an application you have

[@carterscustomrods]

not using the Tnutz extrusions.

[@akpanjennings]

So the well depth for 10 series is too shallow for the 1/2 inch screws they recommend on tnutz ? I’m new to this. Does the screw need to be long enough to touch the bottom of the extrusion shaft in order to lock in or just long enough to grab the tnut?

[@HattonRob]

The screw should thread completely through the nut, but not touch the bottom. Clamping force occurs between the bottom of the screw head and the top of the nut.

[@ron-almog]

Hi, this is very nice! I went to your website, but it seems broken. many links takes you to 404, the diagrams are not available (404 again). looks like this website needs some tlc. still interested in the diagrams, if they are available somehow... thanks!

[@diycargotrailer]

Huh. Not sure what’s going on there. I’ll double check it!

[@diycargotrailer]

Fixed now! Open the site in an incognito window and resubmit!

[@headshotke]

Seriously just use what is designed to be used with 4040, you wasted a lot of time and Money, also my time with a lot of useless options! Just use the Bracket 40 I-Type slot 8,