#AluminumWiring

[@deadliftD]

I replaced most of the outlets and switches years ago with CO/ALR devices and have never had an issue. As far as pigtailing in some situations, I just pigtail a piece of copper with the aluminum, add antioxidant paste to a wire nut, secure with the nut and wrap with electrical tape to help keep the paste in place. That's basically the same function the purple wire nuts serve. I've had zero issues in 20 years. Tons of neighborhoods in my area are full of houses with aluminum wiring. I don't think a single fire in my area has ever been attributed to aluminum wiring.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

You’re lucky

[@deadliftD]

@@electricianron_New_Jersey it really has nothing to do with luck. Statistically speaking it is extremely unlikely a house with aluminum wire will ever have an issue even when no mitigation steps are taken (these houses are literally everywhere). So in my case it's even more unlikely than that as I've taken steps. By no means am I saying to ignore it, but with the reasonable steps stated previously and regular inspection of the wiring it is really a non issue.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@deadliftD all due respect, the aluminum conductor has different properties than a copper conductor. At small terminals like switches and receptacles these terminations heat up and cool down much more frequently than copper. Arcing begins and with a large load like a space heater or air conditioner the problem only multiplies.

[@deadliftD]

​@@electricianron_New_Jersey I understand all of that. I have a master's degree in physics. My point is that there are 2 million homes in the US that have aluminum wiring. I would bet my bank account half of those have not done anything to the majority of their receptacles or connections. That's one million homes. There's not an epidemic of fires occurring to my knowledge. If reasonable steps are taken to minimize the chances of oxidation and receptacles, switches and connections are inspected periodically over the years to make sure connections are tight, this basically amounts to almost a non issue in my opinion. I just don't think it's necessary for someone to spend thousands of dollars to mitigate this with overpriced connectors or special proprietary tools, especially when there are so many differing opinions on the subject. In your video you used the purple specialty nuts, but others including the CPSC claim that's not a good idea. Who's correct? In Canada it seems all they do is use antioxidant paste and special wire nuts. Since there's no real consensus and proof that one method works perfectly and the other methods are fires waiting to happen, I have used my best judgement and have taken reasonable, cost effective steps to mitigate the issue. I'm not calling into question your expertise. I'm just stating what I have done based on all of my research over the years on the subject.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

K @@deadliftD

[@ChristineFrancois-e9s]

What if I want to protect the devices down the line from an initial gfci? And cannot replace the breaker at the box instead? Can i pigtail the load and line aluminum wire separately and install thw gfci to protect downstream?

[@TheFacilityguy]

I just re-deviced a whole house that had AL wiring…. I ended up using the Alumiconns behind all the outlets, worked out well.

[@rtheprizeisright7323]

You're right about the old boxes, I swear they had a contest, how small they could make the boxes, and how short they could cut the conductors. Now, what's interesting here is maybe I misunderstood you. There are aluminum only devices switches and receptacles and while I wouldn't count on them being at the local lowes, they do exist. And you can bond copper and aluminum together you do it every time you install a hanging light fixture the wire isn't silver, colored copper, it's aluminum. We are supposed to be using electrulux or whatever the name of the local brand is. Just like when you terminate your conductors for panel mains. Copper or aluminum into steel or brass all these metals don't play well together and corrode disproportionately, eventually causing arcing. But your probably right, and I am thinking of it differently, like from a different point of view, you obviously know what your doing, and your work is professional and accurate always. I mean that sincerely I am in no way being disrespectful I love your channel.

[@mikenobles1515]

Wow thank you for this video. I needed help with this and your video is straight to the point and very clear. I replace an outlet just now and notice the yellow cheap wire but had a burn mark and they tried to connect aluminum to copper like this but it caught a spark in the wire nut. I’ll be making sure to use these asap

[@ZeroZillions]

I have a question that i am wondering. If i pig tie the aluminum to copper wires. do i still have to use a co/alr outlet to wire it back on or can i use one with out the co/alr ?

[@boeing757pilot]

If you're connecting copper to the receptacle, no ALR rating is needed..

[@gardenia8213]

I have 2 questiona please, the electrician came to fix mine, he 1) use the nut brown color from home depot, but he used a tube (grey jell) apply to aluminum wire, he explained as anti oxidation 2) the tape, he used as white tape, does that follow the safety conduct? Thanks

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

That does not sound legit to me. Copper to aluminum connections require by code to be listed wire connectors, not brown wire nuts with penatrox.

[@alfonsoincorvaia2595]

I looked up N.E.C.Section 11-14(B) and it didn't say anything about aluminum to copper connection. This is the 2024 code book. Has this changed and can I still use aluminum wiring pigtail??

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

There is no NEC 2024.

[@alfonsoincorvaia2595]

Ok I guess is miss understood, sorry for my error. I guess I can still use these pigtails?I have another question, would I need to use alumiconn in every electrical connection in my home.Presently I am using CO/ALR outlets and switches, will that meet code? Thank you so much for your reply and I appreciate your help! @@electricianron_New_Jersey

[@afonsogarcia9997]

Question on the amps for the bathroom please, isn't it supposed to be on a 20AMP circuit ?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Not in 1968 when the house was first built.

[@theboatswains-yt]

I am working on replacing a GFCI in my bathroom, similar to your video. Do the wires get connected to the "line" side of gfci in your video, and will this trip other recepticles on the "load" side? Or is this gfci functional for just the bathroom outlet now? Thanks for any help!

[@timperez8741]

It looks like in this video, the line and load wires were tied in together pigtailed.the line and load should be pigtail separately and the line should go on the back of the GfCI and the load should go where it says line on the back of the outlet,in order for others to trip properly.

[@mikenobles1515]

Hey Ron quick question. I just asked a licensed electrician about using these and he said that there are starting to ban these type of connections for aluminum to copper. He said they can cause it to melt over time. And he requested to only use the other square box looking connecter the Alumni 2port connector. Is this true or am I can I still use the twist connector ???

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

I’ve never heard of a ban and I’m quite passionate about the trade and follow developments rather closely through trade associations and E-News Letters. Sounds like bullshit to me.

[@boeing757pilot]

They might be banned in certain places. These connectors have a high failure rate, although the electrician here might have good experience with them...

[@taghvaee]

when you opened the GFCI, it seemed down stream was protected by GFCI. after rewiring and pigtail you connect all in input side of GFCI and leave the load side empty. why?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Because the stuff downstream didn’t need to be GFCI protected.

[@aldovega01]

If my house has a 10 aluminum wire, can I pig tail with a 12 gauge wire?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Yes.

[@barbaraannruggiero3937]

the original GFI was wired so that a circuit down stream was protected also. by connecting all the wires together before connecting the GFI, the circuit down stream is no longer protected

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Downstream were a bunch of lights and receptacles that were not required to be GFCI-protected so I rewired the GFCI correctly.

[@Sparky-ww5re]

Good point. If your repairing aluminum wiring supplying receptacles or circuits requiring GFCI protection you're much better off using Alumniconns at the receptacles, using standard receptacles especially if the boxes are small typical of homes during the aluminum era, then using a GFCI breaker at the panel to protect the entire circuit, vs GFCI type receptacles.

[@rblaclewell]

I did not see any ground wires where would your ground wire go on a light fixture???

[@andrii3810]

had the same question. Also, do you have to piggy tail ground or you can use the screw on the box for both aluminum and copper wires.

[@johnspence8141]

Does the copper pig tail have to be a specific thickness ?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Depends on the size of the overcurrent protected device (the circuit breaker). You want to size that pigtail conductor to match the size of the breaker.

[@boeing757pilot]

Nice video, but I'm going to disagree with this installation technique. While I'm a pilot, I'm also an EE and have studied the aluminum wiring problem extensively. Yes, these "Ideal 65" are UL listed, but field reports have shown a high failure rate. I recommend using the Alumiconn connectors instead.. That said, if you're going to use these Ideal connectors, I recommend that you first use #240 sandpaper on the stripped aluminum to remove oxidation. Then, add Penetrox (antioxidant) to the aluminum. Next, tighly twist the aluminum and copper together (as you did) and then twist on the Ideal connector.

[@vince6829]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Much appreciated.

[@Bob.W.]

Will Wagos join aluminum to copper?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

No. The Wago's are not listed for copper to aluminum connections.

[@Bob.W.]

@@electricianron_New_Jersey too bad. They are pretty handy for certain connections, like solid to stranded. Thx.

[@localone1597]

Great video! Thanks for the information.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

My pleasure.

[@PegasusFleets]

Nice work 👏..

[@frankwiddifield7520]

My house has all aluminum wire. I'm about to add a fan to my bathroom. Seeing how these connectors are $50 for a 10 pk and the main panel isn't far at all, it may just be cheaper to change out the entire branch to copper since I have to purchase a roll of romex anyway 😂

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

That’s the best possible solution for sure.

[@Electricmanx]

Is there anything in the code for jb?

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

If there's a junction box loaded with aluminum conductors just leave it alone.

[@StevenGamesWHC]

Surprised you didnt apply corrosion inhibitor to the end

[@deadliftD]

Those particular nuts already contain antioxidant paste.

[@Phil-D83]

Use alumicons...come on

[@boeing757pilot]

Agree completely. These Ideal connectors have a high failure rate..

[@eh288]

WTF! Aluminum and copper should NEVER touch each other, and those supposedly approved IDEAL purple wire nuts melt down! You should only be using the Alumiconn connectors, OR the COPALUM method for copper and aluminum connections.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

You must not be doing it right if your wire nuts are melting.