AMAZING Solenoid Trick! Try This EPIC Trick! Honda, Kohler, Briggs, Kawasaki

In "Miller Lite Expensive", Taryl, demonstrates how to fix a starter solenoid for Briggs, Kawasaki, Kohler, and Honda brands. It's a neat little trick that sure is handy! Another outside-the-box thinking tip from small engine master, Taryl Dactal!
Now there's your dinner!!
Please Subscribe to the channel and Thumbs Up our videos and be sure to 'Like' Us on Facebook for all the latest news and updates!
You can pick up all your TARYL APPAREL here: www.tarylfixesa...
(T-Shirts, Coffee Mugs, Shop Products and More!) Shippping worldwide and daily!
LIKE us on FACEBOOK! / tarylfixesall
We're on INSTAGRAM too! @tarylfixesall
#startersolenoid #smallenginerepair #troubleshooting #kohler #briggs #briggsandstratton #tarylfixesall #grassratsgarage #kawasaki #honda #howto #fix #repair #starter #solenoid #diy #lawnmower #ridingmower #mower #taryl #taryldactal

[@frankburrell]

This worked as a "temporary" fix on an excavator 20 months ago and it's still going strong. Thank you Sir.

[@petermeix123]

Damn,...! It really works! I rolled the dice and bought the 3 pole solenoid...$20 bucks... It works like a charm! You sir, are a freaking jeenyus!

[@jamesconn7311]

Thanks Again Taryl !! I finally got my stuff together , on my Ferris ztr, been fighting with it for a year or two, been a PIA awhile !! I watched this about 15 times first, today it was successful !! She busted off like she pose too now !! Thank Ya Sir , You are a National Treasure !!

[@notagain1952]

Thanks for video. I pulled the starter/solenoid off the skag kawsaki. Took the solenoid off, slid the boot off and then used silicon spray on the actuator to clean the dust and grime off, repeating about 5 times until it was working smooth and clean. Reassembled and it is working great with no hesitation. No cost. There's your winner, winner, chicken dinner.

[@yalishbukhari6529]

The punching sentence in all the joke " I don't know how but it wokrs" 😂 You are a genius still funny. Thanks

[@emailioaddresstavez6438]

It really worked! Spent 20 bucks. Almost got bamboozled for 140... Thankyou so much.

[@ThomasThomas-wn3km]

Thank you, Tayrl! I used this trick to repair my side by side. It saved me at least $100.

[@IntenseVisuals]

I can't tell you how many times over the years that one of your videos totally helped me out. Thanks Taryl!

[@Jolly56Roger]

love this great guy, he saved me a few dinners on the bent crankshaft .

[@williamandree1980]

Did this just as you said and it worked!!! You saved me brother! $36 vs $200 Thanks!

[@james1795]

Taryl never mentioned that he has a brother named William......Hmm.

[@leedoughten]

I just tried this on my exmark. I have an extra red wire that went to my hot side. I put this together exactly. Now I have no power to my key switch. I've checked the fuses. They are good. What has happened. My grass looks like a jungle. I need help.

[@tonyfremont]

It sure seems like it would still need the solenoid on the starter to be working, for that to work. I don't understand. If the new, short cable went from the Ford solenoid to a different spot on the starter, bypassing the solenoid on the starter, it would make sense....but it don't. :?

[@dmlail]

That trick worked wonders on old Volkswagens when they had six volt electrical systems. Many suffered badly with intermittent start problems, but a Ford solenoid screwed to the fan shroud and wired as you just showed did the trick every time.

[@TractorWrangler01]

Many on board starter solenoids can be disassembled the striker disc can be flipped over and the contact heads on the bolts can be rotated to a fresh spot. Like the old Chevy small block starters.

[@newsnowriversidesgtrock]

If the solenoid is no longer kicking out, it can neither engage the flywheel or the two terminals to pass voltage from the positive (battery) terminal to the starter motor contact on the lower part of the solenoid. Thus the external relay solenoid system will not work (no contact between the starter gear and the flywheel). When this happens a new starter is still not needed if the solenoid can be replaced. The repair you demonstrated will work most times as long as the solenoid kicks out to engage the flywheel. But, if the solenoid does not kick then a new solenoid will be needed. This test should be done before electrical parts are purchased as electrical parts are seldom returnable for refund once installed. On most of these starters the solenoid repair kit for a GM starter will work.

[@jaryljackderriere1232]

I made this repair on my neighbor's mower and it worked GREAT!!! Thank you Taryl.

[@marcusseger2583]

please tell me where the short spade wire goes to from the new solenoid spade connector to where?

[@jaryljackderriere1232]

@@marcusseger2583 Without a picture it's tough to tell exactly but I would recommend rewatching the video and do exactly what you see Taryl do. That's what I did instead of replacing the starter. Worked like a charm! Good luck.

[@codybrunck5919]

Today I completed the fix for the solenoid problem. It work just like you said it would!!!!! Saved me lots of money on an old Cub!! Thanks so much!!!

[@zexneo]

This is hands down the best tutorial video I've ever seen. Entertaining and informative. LOL

[@stevefrazier325]

I don't know why it works, but it did!! Had the same issue you described, put in a universal solenoid like you instructed and mower starts every time! Thanks!!!

[@calholli]

it only works this way because the solenoid on the starter is still working (or a least it's stuck closed).... If you try this and it doesn't work (because your old solenoid is actually not working, and is stuck open).. put the big red wire on the other side of the old solenoid (with the braided wire out of the starter).... and it will work

[@DonaldDJHuebner]

My space shuddle flew Taryl, thank you very much. Saved a starter solinoid going out every year. My dinner was good thanks to you!

[@altruismfirst6489]

Thank the Lord for making women beautiful and Men like Taryl at least funny.

[@donaldfoster1666]

I’ve had problems starting my Kawasaki mule for years now and tried everything from new starter, replace wiring,ignition you name it. Watched this video and gave it a go. I don’t understand how this works but boy it did the trick. Starts up so fast I don’t even have to use the choke and it never started without the choke pulled all the way out. Thank you so much for this informative video and you just saved me thousands of dollars as I was going to go buy a new one, not now!!!

[@GB-kv6jw]

Taryl just used this repair on a 22 year old Kohler motor works great, after replacing the solenoid with a no doubt china piece of crap it still had problems starting, more videos please. Thanks. You have another life time fan.

[@junkaholic95]

A buddy of mine has Kawasakis on 3 on his machines (2 FB460v and 1 FC420v) and they all had intermittent starting issues. We did this to all 3 and it works like a charm.

[@davidlewis2297]

Taryl, thank you for the video. This worked on my John Deere 185 hydro with Kawasaki 17hp motor. For years, I've been using a long screw driver to jump the solenoid,but not anymore. Thanks for my dinner😁

[@travelingkaspersworld4096]

Thanks....We have that same 17hp. Thanks for being specific in your reply!

[@agavebob3462]

Thanks a billion Taryl!! Your smile brings sunshine to my day!!

[@jonmyers8046]

Did this on my 93 Corolla because they buried the starter in the back of the engine. Works great!

[@Grizzydan]

Love what you're doing here. I've been watching your videos all day. I was planning on spending my savings on a new mower but then I started thinking about finding a used mower or five instead! I see plenty on craigslist from $50 and up.. and I've been wanting to convert a sit down to electric some day in the far off yonder so it wouldn't matter if I picked up a few mowers with bad motors.. I've always been fairly handy with tools, but carburetors have always been my weak point, especially with chainsaws and weed eaters. I'm glad that there are people like you sharing your wealth of knowledge here on the tube. With a bit of luck I'll never have my equipment held for ransom again

[@TarylFixesAll]

Thanks Dan, glad you enjoy our videos and can apply them to your mower. And there's yur dinner!

[@cclcanadiancountrylife3628]

I have a 1969 Nufield 65 hp tractor, when I bought it, the tractor would fire up no problem no issues starting. After the winter the tractor starts so slow. Turn the key over It’ll turn over like half at a time and then stops not enough to get the thing going. Even if I boost it with my diesel truck. I took the positive cable off the battery, cleaned it up, and took off the solenoid cleaned it up wire brushed. I took the negative off the battery and the ground off the tractor and cleaned both up with wire brush. Still nothing, so I tried jumping the solenoid with a screw driver and it spun over super fast and fired right up, So now that’s the only way to start it, a new solenoid is $73 usd I have a couple of these stand alone solenoids in my shed i am going to try and use. Thanks for the video, you’ve given me new hope to get this fixed.

[@RMCSR341014]

Taryl - Just revitalized my JD STX38 per your video; now starts like just came out of showroom. Thanks.

[@roberthodge2771]

I have the same mower that is having LOT of starting troubles; sure hope this works.

[@victoryfirst2878]

Taryl, this is the same thing as the old starters with the side solenoid. The fix was to take the solenoid cap off and move the contact 180 degrees, which gave you a new contact and wala, you are starting you car again. The fix you are showing here is a solenoid replacement in line. A very straight forward way to get more bang for your buck. Nicely explained too Taryl. Good day and have a Happy Fourth of July too. VF

[@roseymalino9855]

Correct. This was the first fix I learned on my first car in 1965: '58 Impala convertible. I felt like a genius. But only for a short while. It was an education.

[@eganmag]

Love how you explain things it really helped me out solenoid switch to my starter little 3 inch 12 gauge wire frayed and car would not start looked at your video and went back out tried a screw driver across them car started right up. Thanks so much ur were a great help and made us laugh at a bad time and saved us many dinners, Have a wonderful Holiday!

[@newsnowriversidesgtrock]

Taryl, the inside of the solenoid has a disc as you stated. This disc is part of a relay system. When the ignition wire is energized, the solenoid(relay) engages and the disc makes contact with the back of the two large terminals. The relay also moves the starter gear into contact with the flywheel. The large top terminal is the input terminal where the battery is connected and the large bottom terminal supplies the voltage to the winding of the starter motor. The small wire terminal is the ignition switch source to energize the relay. When the relay becomes intermittent and only clicks and does not spin, the disc is not making good contact with one or both of the large terminals inside the solenoid cover. Cleaning the internal parts can sometimes fix this problem. However, sometimes it is a particle discharge problem. When two electrical contacts complete an active contact the surge sometimes moves particles from the positive side of the contacts to the negative side of the contacts. This can eat away the positive contact. The top large terminal (battery connection) is the positive between the terminals and the disc and the lower one is the negative or ground. Once the disc makes contact with the upper large positive terminal it is now supplying that positive connection to the lower large terminal. Thus both the back side of the upper large terminal and the disc [(both now positive sources in the relay connection between the top terminal (battery connection) and the lower terminal (motor connection)] can potentially lose material. The disc spins and presents a different surface on each contact so this loss on the disc is consistent around the disc over time and is generally not a problem. The problem is at the rear end of the top large terminal where it contacts the disc. The continual burning and particle discharge can cause a loss of material on the rear of that large top terminal. This terminal is really just a copper bolt and is connected only by a jam nut on the out side and its connection to the battery cable. It is also indexed in the plastic cover. When the rely energizes and kicks out the disc can no longer make good positive contact with the upper terminal because of the burned surface (gentle cleaning is all that is required to fix this problem) or because of the particle discharge causing the terminal to wear away at the point of contact. Fortunately the disc only makes contact with half of the head of the bolt. Simply loosening the large upper copper terminal enough to rotate it will present a completely new clean surface and allow for consistent positive contact and voltage transfer. If the bolt is rotated 90 degrees this procedure can be done three (3) times. However, the small contact face causes accelerated wear, necessitating the job to be done again before it should. If the bolt is rotated 180 degrees then the contact surface is the same as when it was new and should last as long as it originally did. If done correctly this repair can be done without removing anything but the battery wire. First remove the negative battery cable from the battery, then remove the positive wire from the solenoid. When the cable is removed slowly loosen the jam nut that holds the top (battery cable) terminal in place but do not remove it. While slowly loosening the jam nut push the terminal into the solenoid while attempting to rotate the terminal. When the jam nut is loose enough to allow the terminal to turn, rotate the terminal either 90 degrees or 180 degrees (180 degrees is suggested), then pull the terminal back out tighten the jam nut and replace the battery cable connection to the solenoid and to the negative connection on the battery. All done. This would make a great video and is a no cost DIY fix. You could show all the parts and how to gently sand the disc to clean it and the wear on the terminal and how rotating it presents a new contact surface to allow the solenoid to work as new.

[@RIP5582]

Thanks for that detailed reply.

[@treyedwards3]

Great info. I'm going to try this. Do you rotate the bolt in or out 180deg before tightening the jam nut? Thanks.

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

A very long post and you are correct 100%. However, these new type failed solenoids are crimped during assembly and thus are difficult to repair in the manner you describe. Using a slave solenoid to perform the function of the failed terminals of the starter solenoid is a good solution for this failure mode.

[@newsnowriversidesgtrock]

@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 A closer inspection of the solenoid shows that the one in the video does not seem to show whether the end piece is a cap held on by a set of screws or is just an end piece that is crimped into the end and covering the inside connectors. If the end cap is just a plate that is crimped in then you are an educator and I am the student. I have run into those before and the terminals seem to be fixed in place and cannot be rotated as described in the post. The nut that holds the terminal in place is a fixed type that has no flats and is not designed to be removed. Research has shown that the replacement parts are all of this non-repairable type. All of the above not withstanding it is still possible to remove the end piece and repair the solenoid. Carefully remove the crimps and remove the internals being careful to observe how they fit and how they will be required to be replace. Next, using appropriate tools (pliers, vice grips, body hammers and dollies, whatever you have and can do the job) smooth the solenoid casing/shell lips so that the walls are straight. The next step is to clean and refurbish the internal parts. Generally the same procedure as listed in the earlier post, with the exception of the ability to remove the "jam" nut and turn the post. it is sometimes still possible to remove the external threaded ring that holds the terminal and rotate it. The ring is difficult to remove and the removal procedure can cause the cap to crack if this happens, it is recommended to replace the entire solenoid. Replacing the cap when refurbishing the internals is successful is actually a simple matter. It can be re crimped or my recommendation is to place a small piece of steel washer in the space on the plastic where the casing was originally crimped. then thread a small screw through the side over the washer and the end of the cap on all sides where the casing was originally crimped. This allows for easy dis-assembly and repair if needed in the future. These procedures will not be as good as replacing the solenoid and is tedious. However, if you have the time we have the bee... ah, it is an educational and rewarding experience and can get your machine back in service quicker than waiting for parts to be ordered and shipped.

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

@@newsnowriversidesgtrock The older style starters did have the removable cap on the solenoid but unfortunately today's version is crimped, not considered servicable. A repair kit was available for the old style solenoids which included replacement copper studs and the gasket. Looks like the new design is intended to sell more starters, so hang onto your old style starters. A benefit of many starters of the new design is gear reduction and permanent magnet, making them lighter and more efficient. The holy grail would be a replacement solenoid that's repairable, best of both worlds.

[@5StarLawn-Property]

Taryl... you're a genius! This fix worked flawlessly on a recurring solenoid problem with our Ferris IS3000 / Kawasaki FD731V engine.

[@ctssmallenginerebuildandre1106]

Wow.. now I can’t believe it. Was about to buy a$200 starter because I had a issue with my dune buggy not starting just click click click. Picked up a lawn mower solenoid and wired up like you said and fixed my problem it now starts.. thank you sir

[@hillbillyholler516]

You can also pull the solenoid off the starter and remove the black plastic cap. Clean the inside of the cap terminals, then clean the copper disk inside the black....put it back together......free repair

[@wickedwoman5471]

Gonna try that today on my CV-23

[@johnsayman2271]

@@wickedwoman5471 did it work?

[@wickedwoman5471]

@@johnsayman2271 yes it did. I also cleaned all the connections on the ign sw side, so that might have done it too. Works fine now without buying any parts. (Take the gas tank off for easier access.)

[@johnsayman2271]

@@wickedwoman5471 thank you. I have kohler command 13 and it turns super slow if at all, gonna hve to give it a try

[@seanmckay3392]

It's to hard to for that on my kawasaki FC420V from 1987 no wonder why it's broken

[@fikascore]

I did this on a 2007 Kawasaki Mule 610, works great!! Thanks.

[@zachsgarage4714]

My theory is that the trigger wire on the starter when you hook it up on the output of the solenoid you added, the solenoid on the starter is getting the full amperage, rather if it is 230cca or 380cca, that makes the solenoid on the starter fully engage the relay side.

[@0Myles0]

Exactly correct in my experience. I have almost the same setup on my 1971 Chevy pickup. The activation wire from the ignition switch doesn't carry enough amps to kick the starter solenoid, but a cheap modular solenoid gets it done.

[@walterblackshire2695]

Think u

[@19491Tommy]

I'm glad I found this .... I was already considering doing this on my 1992 GMC Sierra .... getting to the existing selenoid is difficult and I'm always by myself .... putting it on the inside fender well is the place for me !

[@juniorcopeland9082]

Thanks for the videos Taryl, its always good to learn something, and have a little humor at the same time !!

[@martinbulej]

Taryl u r big boss!! i love your humour and like your skills and the way of explaining.. your fan from europe..

[@andrews3319]

I don’t know why it works either, but it worked for me! (850cc kamasaki) thanks taryl

[@billwoods5406]

This guy should run for President!He could fix the Washington mess that stopped working. Git er done!!

[@jerodlyford10]

Then he would be the second clown that was president. Biden’s starting a trend

[@aryanzijlstra6649]

"Miller High Life expensive or Busch Light expensive." - "There'e yar dinner" I've never laughed that hard.

[@kkutube1972]

Thank you so much. I have a Ferris SRS-Z2 52-inch and it was not starting. When I turn the key, I can hear it ready to start but it won't. It had the problem before but was random and this time, it won't turn. Your hack/workaround Solved the problem. Took about an hour.

[@servihomestead4324]

Very nice! Thanks for the reminder to bolt the new solenoid down because it needs to be grounded (and so that the positive terminal doesn't touch ground!).

[@philipselman2564]

Hey taryl I like everything you put out an you are funny to , thank you for posting your work on KZbin ! !

[@andywilliams4971]

Great job explaining! I did it and you’re right it works like the spaceship…

[@Saturday8pm]

So in other words, the Solenoid has chummed but still maintains continuity and the new Solenoid bypasses the old and achieves spark. Thanks!

[@GizmosBushEscapes]

Nice one! I've always done a similar fix to my old cars.for some reason they use the bare minimum amperage wiring from the key. i sometimes have used a heavy duty relay. not a bigger solenoid. does the same thing by beefing up the cable amperage. You're a Legend Taryl and a bloody good mechanic. cheers mate

[@paulg444]

You nailed it.. That is what is happening, by shortening the trigger wire to a few inches you lose less voltage to the solenoid. But this requires the additional solenoid to be placed much closer to the ignition/starter switch, otherwise you have the same problem up stream.

[@paulg444]

I have given this some new thought, and I think the fundamental reason this method works is that by shortening the trigger wire you are reducing the resistance of the trigger wire. This gets you a full 12V at the trigger driving the solenoid to fully engage the contacts.

[@trafficjon400]

If so it would not make sense to make it this way?

[@jaykoerner]

@@trafficjon400 not exactly, if this is happening something is starting to go wrong in the solenoid, likely it's rusting or the grease has all leaked out, the windings are fine but it's just not pushing the plunger

[@jtammyjas]

God Bless you, sir! I've been banging starters on my Honda motor for over 16 years. Replaced it twice only to end up banging and cursing it again. Can't wait to get me a cheap ol' starter solenoid and rewire the bastard!

[@nathanaelvetters2684]

4:30 to 4:40 is pure gold

[@patrickhietpas6161]

Hilarious and just what I needed to see. Saved a service call, Thanks much.

[@rcl700]

It worked!! Bring back T

[@randalmurdaugh8378]

I give Taryl 2 thumbs up!

[@andybcumming1]

Awesome video. Never heard of doing this. Quick fix.

[@AirsoftEli2000]

DAM COMPUTER CUT ME OFF! AS i was sayin some times ya gotta do like my daddy shoed me on a chevy starter an pull the batrie wire offn the solenoid terminal an loosen the jam nut on the back an turn the bolt 1/2 a turn an put it back re tighten the jam- What this does is restores the contacter head in the solenoid makeing sort of a new contact an yer good fer go! seen a many chevy owners buy a new starter thikin it wer bad when it wernt Daddies little trick werks ervy time... Less the starter motors burnt up. Love the Vids AB.

[@Wolfiecolada]

looks like it works because you are using a much larger wire to energize the "switch" post vs running all the way through the switch and through the long thin wire.

[@shazaidi]

Taryl, I have a John Deere 318. It has the similar type starter. The problem is that the mechanical solenoid on the starter is bad. You can remove that and replace it. Surprisenly it's a pretty cheap and universal part. I believe I paid are 14.00 for the replacement solenoid.

[@raymondhoagland4976]

That will come in handy some day. thanks Taryl !

[@agcobileboqwana9923]

I was stuck 600 Kilometers from home on my Chrysler grand voyager, starter was just clicking. when i saw this i just had to try it, i used a wire to jump power from the battery cable straight to the starter while my wife held the key to energize the solenoid and the damn thing fired right up, thank you so much for this video, i managed to get home and replace the contacts on the starter housing. Thank you so much🤝🏻

[@Borednesss]

Obviously doesn't work if the plunger isn't moving at all. It may work in some cases if it's just a tad bit stuck, as it'll give the coil more current and thus more magnetic force to pull the plunger. If your coil is broken or the plunger doesn't move at all, or if the plunger contacts connecting the battery and starter motor are shot, this won't work

[@nicholaskasolosungweashikk4053]

Very true

[@newsnowriversidesgtrock]

You are correct in all details. A little added info is that generally, if the solenoid can be removed from the starter the solenoid slug/piston or "plunger" will stay with the starter connected to the fork lever. The internal cylinder and the piston can be cleaned removing any corrosion or other debris that may be causing the obstruction. The system should then work as designed.

[@boatbuilder1954]

You crack Me up! Thanks, I don't know why I watch you but I do!😛😛

[@gregmorgan7139]

I just came in from fixing one of these starters with zero parts, the upright position of them lets goo fall in and build up in the bottom of the starter at the brushes and in the solenoid. An E6 torx/star socket to take off the solenoid and some carb. cleaner followed by some silicon spray lub. and it works like new!

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

Connect the slave solenoid output terminal to the defective solenoid output terminal, as opposed to the input terminal of the defective solenoid.

[@yukon1000]

Thanks for getting back to me!

[@mistmeow8713]

Nice job!So many poeople trying to make a funny/informational video are too heavy on the "funny" and too light on the "information".You are actually funny without taking it too far.Please keep making these, it makes boring info I need much easier to ingest.

[@man2841]

Thank you for your help !!! I just starter my tractor!!!

[@gregorysampson8759]

God I love these videos on my interscreen

[@mike1w1r]

I plan on giving this fix a try this weekend. Stay tuned for the report next week. :)

[@garydelpizzo5953]

Taryl I love your videos very educational. I glad that you have such passion to teach people your knowledge of all your secrets you have learned over years of bloody knuckles and sweat. Keep up the good work . P.S. maybe some videos on walker motor rebuilds and why they have one cyclinder foul plugs and not both what causes this to happen . Your pal Gary in jersey the land scraper !!!

[@deggowhop9144]

teaching people? obviously you wouldnt know a crescent wrench from this fools tooth brush

[@newsnowriversidesgtrock]

Look for Fluffie's nest on the fouled cylinder. No, really check for an accumulation of debris on the engine. If this does not work try using a slightly hotter plug in the cylinder that has the fouled plug.

[@derrickheath2388]

Taryl, I enjoy your repair videos and learning how to save my dinner money, and some just watch them for fun. I do have a Troy Bilt mower with a Kohler engine The solenoid is under the seat by the battery. Battery is fully charged; I can turn engine by hand. ISSUES is when I turn the key the solenoid - Clicks then makes a buzz sound it does not engage the starter. Also, cannot move the mower rear wheels seem locked. Have and TIPS D.

[@mrpush2532]

Wow great hack! Thanks! And you too funny...had me laughing out loud!

[@scottwest1813]

Excellent video.

[@mikeanthony3986]

Love your videos. You are a great teacher. Thank You for all you do.

[@leontaylor3572]

your videos are the cats meow buddy. Thank you

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

My 1970 John Deere 4020 came from the factory set up like this.

[@gonesideways6621]

Thanks, I have been trying to solve this problem on my Kawasaki for quite some time sometimes it fires sometimes it clicks, great fix!!!

[@cdavidhord]

Perhaps the shorter length of wire to the low amperage trigger on the defective solenoid has less voltage drop and allows the solenoid to function and trigger the starter. I would not think it would work if you didn't get the starter to crank if you jumped directly from the battery to the trigger pin on the original solenoid.

[@MazichMusic]

All my Fords from the 70's and maybe later had this style solenoid. Easy to fix. I had to get the whole starter replaced on a Flex years later because the interested survivors crapped out. Horrible intermittent issues during the cold and snowy winter.

[@bkj242]

Tyrl, Thanks indeed for posting. You said how this works is a mystery, not sure you were kidding or not. But it’s simple. Maybe someone has explained this previously but if the starter motor and associated Bendix gear is working normally, the start relay or solenoid you replaced simply bypasses the old solenoid. The start switch connections and battery connections were moved from the old solenoid to the new one in your video.

[@gordbaker896]

Wrong. The old original solenoid is still used to activate the Starter. More current is being supplied to the electro magnet via larger gauge and shorter wire activating it.

[@bkj242]

@@gordbaker896 The original poster described replacing the start relay, he did no simply replace the wires which was NOT his reported issue. The ORIGINAL wire size and length was fine or it would have never worked which be obvious!

[@gordbaker896]

@@bkj242 The faulty Solenoid was repaired by increasing the wire size and shortening it, with the additional Solenoid providing more of the activating current. Watch it again.

[@bkj242]

@@gordbaker896 no point in watching but replacing the relay/solenoid was the answer and not increasing the original wire size. Believe what you choose, but misleading others by stating such things isn’t acceptable.

[@lesliemann8859]

Use this trick twice so far it works great

[@antoniomancini8738]

this is a great idea you should also test the motor make sure it's not drawing too many amps because if it is it'll melt cable although it is great idea 4 solenoid failure basically adding a second solenoid sometimes may not work depending on what your situation is with your starter

[@jakewade7388]

Thank you! It works! Every time!

[@lemo2898]

My starter was dead so I got a solenoid which didn’t work so I got another starter that didn’t work. In desperation I tried this and so far works like a charm. In theory it shouldn’t make a difference but my opinion is that I’m getting just enough voltage drop through the switch circuit such that the solenoid is not being fully energized. Shooting it straight from the starter lug seems to do the trick.

[@mikebarriball]

COOL,'' THANK YOU TARYL FOR THE USEFUL INFO!

[@kenforu1531]

Means ignition switch not giving enough current to starter solenoid. Fixed some old Mitsubishi cars cuz of same...same method. Good work Taryl.

[@terryskinner9466]

A 10 dollar relay works just as good! I’ve gotten several John Deere tractors in with relays on them for the same reason.

[@rpGuitarWorks]

Addendum: Honda GXV530 also requires a jumper from the small red wire - relocate from hot side of old solenoid to battery side of new aux solenoid. Great content, funny video, subscribed! Might need to see a dentist Taryl, I don’t know what you’re saying 😂😂😂

[@patrick9761]

legend ! thanks from Tasmania:)

[@fowyb]

We used to have to do this with XF Ford Falcons here in Australia. The ignition switches were crap and eventually wouldn't pass enough current to fire the starter solenoid. We'd use a relay to pull battery positive straight to the solenoid trigger and Bob's ya uncle. Good fix. 👌

[@MISTERPRESIDENTELECT]

Yes, exactly what he's doing here. I don't know why he keeps calling it a solenoid, when all he's got is a 12v relay.

[@unpublishable4091]

This works great on cars too. VW Jettas with auto have the starter near the exhaust manifold with a dumb nonheat sheild. For that we use a 25Amp solinoid and a nylon strap.

[@sirmister4411]

We used to do the same thing on small block chevys with headers The solenoid didn’t like the heat and that was the fix

[@loniedavis1167]

USED TO WORK FOR FORD MOTOR COMPANY ! LOOKS JUST LIKE THE SOLENOID ON THE CARS AND TRUCKS FOR MANY YEARS !

[@richarddaniels9965]

Dude you are awesome and entertaining. Thanks

[@newsnowriversidesgtrock]

I should mention that a terminal or solenoid repair kit is usually available if this fix has already been done. The kit usually contains a new disc and a new top terminal, and sometimes a new gasket for the solenoid cover.

[@CP-mj8wd]

Good repair, thanks

[@Josh-vj5ip]

Well explained clear and concise

[@penguinistas]

Great idea. And yes, Kohler starters are very expensive.

[@SpeedyJoe.]

Nice job Taryl

[@armyvet4081]

Taryl, you are awsome.Love your videos.