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In this chapter we will be doing the standard rebuild for cleaning of an S&S Super E (shorty) carburetor. This carb has seen some considerable time in standing gas due to the bike sitting up due to the engine problems, so its a good candidate for this demonstration. Adding to this ethanol gas, is a nice recipe for a mess. The demonstration shows that even a bad carb can be brought back to new in most cases with little work.
**Note 20:01 into the video, the O-ring is not placed on the idle mixture screw before installation**
This carb is simple and only requires a few tools though a basic rebuild kit should be purchased before attempting. Starting with the bowl nut removed from the bottom to remove any gas, the carb is disassembled in the order as demonstrated, taking care no to loose any small parts, each inspected for wear damage or dirt collection.
The idle needle needs to be brought to full seat so that the turns can be counted to an 1/8 of a turn and recorded so that it can be restored to the same position in the reassembly portion. Care must be taken to bull the bowl off straight and not at an angle.
In this case we see that the float was completely stuck, though, the system has been dry and may have not been so if it were in gas. Still terrible. The float needle seat is removed from the bowl and polished first. Wear is seen on the inner race, though mild, its probably approaching the end of its service life. On the next removal, it will be replaced.
Every other serviceable piece is cleaned and polished in the same manner. The enrichener valve also demonstrated minor wear at the needle as well but still passed inspection. Some of the brass pieces cleaned are press fitted into the main carb components and are done before going into the tank. This includes the accelerator pump nozzle in the bowl, and the emulsion tube for the enrichener.
A mixture of simple green, distilled water and dish detergent is brought to about 70degC in the bath before putting the parts in the bring them up to temperature. The parts go through one 20min cycle before an inspection. It was determined that a second 20min cycle was ok to conduct. They were then allowed to come back down to room temp before rinsing them in a bath and blowing them out with air.
Assembly starts along with the rebuild kit parts starting with the float bowl pieces. Quickly an inspection is made of the float bowl height between 1/8 to 3/16 from the gasket height, measured with calipers. Mine turned out to be ok so O did not need to bend the metal tab. After this, the rest of all of the pieces were bolted on, the idle jet to full seat and turned out to the original position. This will require subsequent re-adjustment on the bike.
The main gasket is lowered across all of the parts on the car, with special attention to the o-ring on the accelerator pump nozzle. Then, carefully bringing both sides together. The final portion comes in a separate bad because the pieces are very small, the spring and the two bearings. The diaphragm for the accelerator pump only fits in one direction into the small cover.
A special technique is employed to but that bottom cover on as described in the video using the pump rod to counteract the spring tension to push the diaphragm into position as the cover is closed. The bearing side should be lowered first though so they don't fall out.
Should the bowl need to be opened only the long screw need be removed from the pump cover, the pump can be left closed and not reopened to remove the bowl. The rest of the seals would be added during installation onto the bike.
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