Amps Going Into Protect? FREE FIX!

Why is your car audio amp keep going into protection mode? If you have too much voltage drop you might need a High Output Mechman alternator or this free protect mode fix might work if you own a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, or Suburban. Stop your amps from going into protect! LINKS BELOW:
Mechman High Output CHEVY Alternators:
1999-2004:
240 Amps: amzn.to/2RV7SG0
320 Amps: goo.gl/XPCgUz
370 Amps: amzn.to/2RZgJqt
2005-2013:
240 Amps: amzn.to/2DeGvPd
250 Amps: goo.gl/vQnyoj
320 Amps: goo.gl/17d7fE
370 Amps: amzn.to/2VVqmFy
2014-2017:
All alternators: goo.gl/3EHGCe
**They have custom colors if you order directly through the Mechman website for an additional fee.**
You can check here too:
www.mechman.com/
www.iraggialte...
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0 Gauge Ground and Power Wire:
Amp Wire Kit: amzn.to/2FvAPCB
Red 25 FT: amzn.to/2Fx7rvF
Blue 25 FT: amzn.to/2FG3eFl
Black 25 FT: amzn.to/2MdjmiO
**You can select shorter lengths too.**
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
0 Gauge Ring Terminals:
Ring Terminals: amzn.to/2VT8CuB
Wire Lugs: amzn.to/2RTQEZA
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This is a 2006 Silverado 1500 4.8 2WD.

[@MattsShop]

Links in the description for High Output Alternators and the 0 Gauge wire I used! As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. It's important to upgrade your wiring with a sound system. I recommend 0 Gauge wire. ****This video is for entertainment purposes only. Matt's Shop is not responsible for any damages that may occur from attempting to duplicate any repair procedures or modifications performed in this video or any other video.****

[@antia587]

Doesn't that connector control the amount of volts is put out like if it's not getting 12v it puts out more and if it's getting to much it puts out less? Taking those out doesn't run the Volts higher? I feel like a capacitor would be a safer fix but more expensive. Or is there something else I'm not thinking about?

[@user-dm2bq7wk7y]

Try moving the ground wire away from the engine bay ?

[@robmccormick4403]

Hey Matt I've watched your video and you said something about your lights dimming I don't think you need to hire full amp alternator I found one guy who left the comment just like I'm going to leave you you take a new ground wire to your high beams your high beams and the low beams used the same ground and if you put another ground on it it stopped my flickering I do not have capacitors set up on it which was only thing to recommended by everybody who wanted to sell me a million dollar capacitor but if you know anything about electronics capacitor is not going to take care of the big base boom anyway I thought I'd give you that little cheap fix run a new ground wire from the high beam ground to the chassis oh and it also when you hit your high beams all four will come on at once which will light up the side of a mountain which I'm very happy with anyway I seen that from some body's comments and it worked on my 01 GMC Sierra give that a try before you buy a capacitor or an or a alternator

[@myassizitchy]

A 1 farad cap stopped mine. Plus made my lights stop dimming

[@mattbennett6453]

THANK YOU THANK YOU- Finally fixed my issue. Dont apologize for explaining and educating people Matthew

[@akustoms]

So I have a 2013 Yukon Denali I have been dealing with the amps cutting out while driving since I finished my build 2 months ago. I’ve replaced the battery, the alternator done big 3, augmented ground ect nothing fixed it until today when I came across your video! I went for a ride with my wife and she took a video of my volt meter and as soon as it spiked to 15.6 it would cut out so I unplugged the alt and it hasn’t happened again so far! I wish we could fix the battery light but just having no cutting out is making me super happy right now. So thank you

[@trappinyuccy4790]

have you ran into any problems since you unplugged it?

[@danks2real314]

@@trappinyuccy4790 I guess so🤷🏽 hope not it’s pretty koo if that works ,

[@piercesteadys6601]

As stated by previous person, the factory’s computer is controlling the alternator for battery conditioning, and fuel economy. I had a Chevy van that did this. However, the voltage would drop when the AC would cycle on, or accelerating up a hill. I called the dealer, & they said it normal to see a voltage fluctuation. As far as a fix, check with a local reputable alternator repair shop. Keep in mind that high wattage amps require large amounts of current to operate efficiently. Rule of thumb, if your planning on a high powered stereo system, be prepared to up grade the power requirement for your system. Car audio is a addictive, & expensive hobby. I know this because I have been a car audio nut for the last 32 years. Thanx for the informative video.

[@MattsShop]

Thanks for the informative comment.

[@DaBadNewz]

Love your maintenance style…I’m the same way, “you’re gonna hate it, but it was cheap and worked for me…but I DO know the ‘right’ way too”. Very informative!

[@MattsShop]

Get 'er done right once!

[@mylesarnold3342]

This happened to me today, I own a 08 Silverado with a 4.8, haven't tried it yet but was helpful enough

[@MattsShop]

It happens and is extremely annoying.

[@CaliLifeStyle8o5]

Have the same truck too. Did you found out the problem or you did the same thing in the video ?

[@xengtop1910]

had this problem with a 96 nissan altima and it fixed my problem thanks for your video

[@lsx2260]

“Drilled it onto the block” “draws to much power threw my 16 gauge” wires😂😂😂

[@Kaveh_Ahangar]

This could've been a 2 min video

[@MattsShop]

If you don't understand the logic/testing behind why I am doing this you learn nothing.

[@GC-vd1ps]

It be like that

[@jordandaigle7149]

Stop hating

[@markfontana1095]

He right tho

[@eatnutz]

🤣😂

[@mracura78]

OH MY GOD THANK YOU FOR MAKING THIS VID! Had exact same issue on my 2006 Chevy Impala. Checked Multimeter and voltage was going UP just like yours. I put a second car battery from other car in the truck as a SUPER quick way to test your idea. Amp never goes into protect now. Ty,!

[@MattsShop]

You're welcome!! It took me a LONG time to figure this out.

[@myb7922]

Worked on my 07 denali with same alternator. I will probably add capacitor like others recommend. But this trick did work for me for time being.

[@MattsShop]

Good to know! Other people report back!

[@erictheboringone5292]

I had the very first model of blazer that had the 4.3l vortec with the fuel injection instead of TBI setup and I miss that beast. Best vehicle/motor combo I’ve ever had.

[@yogi902]

... Oh GOD! Just cut to 3:30 for a 45 second explanation of what only takes 15 seconds to explain. You're welcome!

[@MattsShop]

You gotta know how it works to know how to fix it?!?

[@Noturavgjo143]

Dude it’s a 15 min video. If you don’t have 15 min to spare then fuck off

[@mrmack4444]

Haven't tried it yet...but it makes plenty of sense!Will update post once I try it today

[@MattsShop]

Post what Year/Make/Model so we know what works and what doesn't.

[@christinacagle6896]

Thank U Sooooo! Much Almost Bought Another Amp Listening To A CoWorker Who Obviously Didn't Know What They Where Talking About LoL! So Thank U

[@betotheboss8469]

Did it work for you

[@VentureWelding]

Did it really work for you

[@OscarTactical]

tries this rn and it actually worked

[@MattsShop]

Yup! Glad it worked.

[@watchthis1time]

I'm confused, you mention in the video not being able to recreate your amps clipping by saying that everything had already been fixed then proceed to tell folks that they need to unplug a wire to their alternator but then why is yours plugged in still?? lol Thanks for sharing.

[@MattsShop]

I plugged it back in for the video. Just unplug it and see if it helps.

[@mahootscott7105]

It's called voltage regulator when you battery gets low whens the deep bass battery sends power causing a drain the alternator sends a joint to keet the power going

[@MattsShop]

Pretty much TLDR of the video. It is a bit more complicated than that and annoying lol

[@shaynebecker3075]

Check your bass knob (if you have one) I had same problem until I removed the bass knob

[@MattsShop]

I tried that a long time ago. It didn't do anything...

[@1torawi1]

Thank you! I have been having this issue in my 2010. I rewired the entire system and no luck till this. I was about to pull the amps and replace them.

[@MattsShop]

You're welcome!

[@juliansdiamonds]

You are an absolute genius 👏 !!! Thank you for this !!!

[@MattsShop]

You're a genius for getting it! You're welcome!

[@bmw-e30]

The problem though is without computer control, the alternator will be overcharging your battery which will reduce its life. A lot of modern cars are designed for smart charging the battery to prolong its life as in, when the battery is fully charged it stops charging it. Good video.

[@MattsShop]

Yea, it's different on every vehicle. On this one it goes back to 13.8 Volts max when you unplug the regulator wire.

[@Bonsai_Power]

Will the voltage drop now since its disconnected? Will this damage anything? Am i better off getting another battery of just a capacitor? Thanks for the info

[@thatbrxtcass]

would love to know the same!

[@MaxBoostMk7.5]

Firstly, thank you for taking the time to upload this video. It's been extremely helpful in identifying what's been semi-problematic with my 2008 GMC Sierra. Second off, I think you answered all of our questions here, if you want a permanent fix, all you need to do is purchase an amplifier that has a maximum voltage that is over 15.5v correct? This should allow the amp to avoid protect mode on these particular trucks?

[@MattsShop]

Yes, you got it, or come up with some kind of custom alternator.

[@alvinyounggzalg5602]

Great job bro with the explanation this is what's happening to me in my Lincoln

[@Fix-it-tony]

Just add a Capacitor, it’ll prevent the high draws from electronic system. Don’t unplug your alternator, you’ll burn up your battery or other electrical systems.

[@MattsShop]

It's been like this for 8 years. No problem, capacitors suck.

[@Fix-it-tony]

@@MattsShop installed correctly capacitors work at preventing voltage spikes and drops. Under high demand your system voltage becomes too low and can cause serious drive ability issues. You answered for the answer, that is it. Ive been installing high end stereos for 20 years now, never had the problem you are describing with the correct setup.

[@CXRacer11]

I have a capacitor it it has done nothing to help me at all. I am still so confused.

[@bradd145]

@@CXRacer11 you have to make sure you properly charge the capacitor first. You may have ruined your cap

[@CXRacer11]

@@bradd145 Ended up I just needed a voltage regulator. Cost $120 and fixed all my problems.

[@AntonioGarcia-xk6jd]

clean your terminals & post connections use a wired bush & a degreaser spray to remove the oils & dirt

[@kevinroach6914]

Will try today ive been goin crazy lookin 4 answers 2010 tahoe ppv

[@jeremyaro7585]

Video saved me from hours of b.s. if I would have found this at the get go I would have not had to re wire 2x appreciate the vid..

[@MattsShop]

You're welcome. People that need this info get it!

[@floridianking5073]

I ran wire from solid white line thats on the back of the radio, then another wire on white/black lined wire, and ran it straight to the aftermarket amp, I have a aftermarket radio as well

[@markroberts715]

Same problem man,I have a nasty lto bank and a massive team.pie 7500.1 that shuts off when the voltage gets to 15v super annoying,hope thos fixes it thank for the vid

[@dofkenas7356]

it kinda works, my amp works for a longer time, but it makes my traction control turn off after about 10 minutes (Golf 5), so if you dont have winter and don't care about light in the panel disturbing you, I suggest this method

[@dofkenas7356]

Okay so the solution for me was not taking out the wire just changing my battery for a new one, now my sub only doesnt work when i use it without the car turned and after coming back the generator needs to charge it back so after about 5minutes i turn on the sub again and then it works

[@dofkenas7356]

Also I dont suggest taking out this wire in the winter because theres a chance you will drain your battery(if u have an old one) and you will have hard times in the morning

[@MattsShop]

I haven't had any problems for like 9 years. It still charges just at a max of 13.8 Volts.

[@dofkenas7356]

@@MattsShop hmm i think im wrong because it started working only sometimes again, but i cant drive without traction control in -10c weather so i need to deal with it :D

[@MattsShop]

If it's causing you problems please don't do it! I have only tested this on GM vehicles.

[@danielwarbucks2469]

Most after market high output alts are exact replacement so that diy people aren't trying to figure out how to wire them so they build them in a case that has all the same connections. I wish I had a to high a voltage issue . I have 3 arms and a 320 h/o alt and still get down in the mid to high 11s at full tilt I need some lithium

[@Blload]

Did your amp get extremely hot before it goes protective mode? Because that's what mine does. It's heats up pretty quick then shuts off in like 10 minute of use.... What could be the reason

[@MattsShop]

No, this amp went into protect in seconds. Sounds like your gains are set wrong.

[@Blload]

@@MattsShop my battery output with half volume is like 13,6 volts but in them ita only 11.9 volts. Bad fuse? But I've just installed them new in a shop...

[@Scorpio-tn4vy]

Voltage regulator keeps voltage steady whether you're doing 20mph or 100. Putting a smaller pulley on a 6.0 Diesel overrides the computer but idk about others.

[@MattsShop]

Not on these charging systems. The computer ramps the voltage up or down depending on the demand. That's the problem. It ramps the voltage up too high for some amps.

[@Scorpio-tn4vy]

@@MattsShop i see what your saying. I just run a higher amp battery than oem and a capacitor. When its time for an alternator I'll put a heavier duty replacement. It shouldn't though if the voltage regulator is functioning correctly. To high will swell that battery up and fry it.

[@johnoates3326]

I did the rare electrical 290 amp alt lasted a year and fried because its computer controlled charging...So alt can't give the current it needs to when the computer won't let it..They fight each other like a push and pull between alt and computer...Been trying alot of things but now I'm going to unplug the sensing wire and see what happens...There's no way it's going to over charge for me with the car amp pulling power and the 2 reserve batteries plus main battery

[@jordant5355]

having same problem.. tried this on my 2002 chevy silverado 4.3 v6 and it didn’t work:(

[@MattsShop]

Then your electrical probably isn't beefy enough. You probably have a weak ground.

[@calvinkabelomolobatsi4664]

thank you so much , my amps are now playing

[@Furbacher5]

My problem exactly haha. Thanks for the upload. I'm gonna go try it out now!!

[@MattsShop]

Yea, it only works on some models though.

[@TKD187]

I'm curious was this a permanent fix for you cuz I did this and it did work but when I drove my vehicle over 10 miles everything shut off like the alternator was not charging the battery

[@ninjaneat]

How about adding a capacitor? It will take the charger from the alternator and only put out the voltage set from the capacitor..

[@MattsShop]

Capacitors suck. If you hang around car audio guys long enough you'll see no one uses those things. They beef up the while electrical system. You can watch videos of the most insane setups and no one uses them.

[@ninjaneat]

@@MattsShop yeah I know people don't like them, but I did one huge install on a friend truck with a cap and system has been great for years, just did basically the same to another friends truck without the cap and it's having what seems to be the same issue as this video

[@hipeez4207]

@@ninjaneat You are correct sir. That is the whole point of a capacitor. I've never had problems with one; only without.

[@benitoduran1708]

I don’t know if this will help anyone but my positive big 3 wire was literally on my headers same 5.3 vortec engine so it melted and was burning up my 300 amp fuses before I noticed I got 500 amp fuses and was pushing to much power with those turning my amp into protect did his trick and it’s 100% helping and working until I get my 250 amp fuse that I checked was the fuse rating for my amp just keep that in mind a to big fuse might be the issue

[@thaddiushill]

This is working for me thank you my battery light come on sometimes when I crank it up and sometimes it don't be on at all but my music do not turn off when I mash the gas 2006 Yukon Denali XL but the longer i play it the bass dont sound good because the alternator npt putting out the 14 .5 volts i need.. 😢 I think this is the problem my 2 xs 3100 batteries do not get charged enough driving home from work it's like 15 minutes Drive because I'm bumping the music hard so I charge my batteries to full on a ctek charger and now I can play the music all the way the Batters was not charged

[@MattsShop]

Yea, it kinda sucks the voltage is lower so you get less power. I adjusted my gain to help a little.

[@thaddiushill]

I finally found out what my problem was is a ground wire might happen to be the ground wire they go down to the transmission line I'm going to make a video showing exactly where mine was and how I repaired it by Jess regrinding that wire that was barely connected because I accidentally pulled it loose and my truck will not crank up at all now that I have rounded it I can play my music as loud as it can play I'm going to show you a video of this in about 2 days NO IT DIDN'T WorK 😞

[@thaddiushill]

Check your speakers one at a time with a multimeter to see if the ohms is changing my speakers are Infinity Kappa and they are supposed to be 2 ohm speakers but 1 was reading 1 ohm

[@N54-8K]

So I bought my 2002 silverado 4.8 and it already had hookups for an amp and an aftermarket radio. I installed a little 300watt kicker amp (certified re-manufactured) and after a few days it went into protection mode. Turns out my outputs went out. Before I install a new one could the amp have been bad? Cause a lot of people said your outputs don’t go out unless the amp is usually bad?

[@MattsShop]

What do you mean your outputs are bad? Just get a refund for your amp.

[@mattg3708]

A inline volt regulator should help if you have not looked into it yet

[@MattsShop]

I looked into an external voltage regulator. It was too much to take on at the time.

[@mattg3708]

Yeah I here ya there I was looking into kinda doing the same thing to a x rocker chair to make it fully wirrless with a 12v bat knocked down to 9v it's a grate idea but with to kids under 2 running around all day just a little hard to do lol if I do it I'll share a video maybe around winter time

[@shanemarvin4320]

Change fuse to amp wire first had same problem fuse reading good when testing changed it for shits and giggles no more amp going in and out of protection mode

[@MattsShop]

You swapped your amp wire with a larger gauge wire and it fixed your problem?

[@h8h81]

I have this issue on a 2008 dodge caliber with 250a high output alternator. Cannot figure it out. Isn't the plug and wire fused interconnect? Goes to fuse box, ya?

[@Amanda-pw7ij]

Chevy charging systems are junk the real problem is you are discharging the battery too fast you need to add a second battery with a isolator and put the power wire on it that way the amp doesn’t back feed when the voltage rises back up also the signal wire is ran to the fuse block so the power signal isn’t getting proper voltage it needs to be ran to the battery to correctly function

[@robgubbei362]

You need to run the ground thru the factory current clamp so the computer will know what alternator needs to do come on and off when it needs to there is an 8 page document on how the alternator works and how the computer controls it

[@MattsShop]

Good point. I remember some of that Info from when I first disconnected the sense wire. I am going to have to watch that video. It is still hooked up through that clamp. I did run additional grounds, but I don't think it has effected anything negatively.

[@rudeone760]

What if when the bass hits hard it cuts off my 4 channel amp but not my sub amp? It does it when ever I gas the car.

[@MattsShop]

Hook up a multimeter at the amp and see what the voltage is when it cuts off.

[@levik9915]

If it does it when you gas the car make sure you’re speaker wires are not touching at all at the connections

[@msoul3248]

What is auto protect? My stereo has all of a sudden gone to very very low volume….

[@tillerc5267]

i exchanged the wingnuts on the battery to nylon lock bolts

[@funniersphere44]

So disconnect the "sensor" or whatever youd want to call it and it'll think it's just normal so it doesn't peak in amps to over compensate thinking it needs more?

[@MattsShop]

Exactly! It's not the amps that it increases though. It's the voltage.

[@OliverClohesHoff]

So basically, your alternator compensating for a dead battery (or battery that is dying) could cause this as well.

[@MattsShop]

YES! Even with a good battery the computer thinks the battery is bad because the voltage gets so low.

[@KGrasso89]

Commenting for future ppl having issues with the 2 pin computer controlled alternator. I was having all kinds of issues with my 2011 sierra but none with same equipment in a 2012 sierra.. still can't figure that one out. Anyways I bought a 300a high output alternator that was 2 pin and still had issues with voltage flucuations and my music would actually get quieter from it. I swapped the 2 pin regulator in the alternator to the older 4 pin style that GM has used for decades. Google how to excite the 4 pin but basically to get going you just hook up an ignition switched 12v power source to pin F or L can't remember which. Then the truck will charge at 14.4-14.8 all the time. I purchased a 14.7 set point regulator but most are 14.4. 10:36 Edit: disconnecting the 2 pin plug throws the alternator into a limp mode with a 13.8v charge always. Maybe see 13.6 on your dash= sucks.. also jumper the 2 pin plug together(connect the 2 wires going to 2 pin alternator) and it tricks the battery light on dash to go out.

[@tjl8884]

Im curious if you were running a cap near the amps to store that extra charge which would eliminate that draw from the battery? It sounds like its hitting so hard its pulling lets say 20-30% from your battery which is triggering that over voltage/amp from the alternator so when the amps don't need that charge your alternator is still kicking out the extra amps trying to charge the battery back up to 90% or whatever? I never had a problem with my amps going into protect mode but I always ran a cap back by the amps.. It also eliminated my lights dimming and over all I think its saves the alternator or prolongs its life.. But I am no expert on any of this stuff just more into trial and error because I never did use a cap on my first install then I noticed the lights dimming at night with the sub hitting so I got the cap and it all smoothed out so it wasn't doing it anymore. But that was back in 2004.. These modern vehicles might be a bit different idk..

[@johnbittle4103]

So I disconnected the wire to the alternator and it did allow me to turn the volume up quite a bit higher but still cuts out on me. I used to have a Rockford amp and never had that issue, it died on me a few months ago and decided to get a cheap pioneer 1000 watt 2 channel and now I’ve run across this issue

[@MattsShop]

Hook a multimeter up at the amp with long wires so you can monitor the voltages while you are listening to music. Is your ground good enough? 99% of problems in 12 volt automotive wiring is caused by bad ground connections.

[@johnbittle4103]

Should be good, same location and everything when I had my Rockford amp, never had any issues

[@MattsShop]

Yea, these guys don't know what they are talking about. Like I am going to stuff $700 worth of amps in a spot with bad airflow. With the seat up in its normal position there is TONS of airflow back there. There are even fresh air vents back there.

[@Angel_Ventura915]

I need to try this for my 2012 Chevy Colorado. Ive been running a small SKAR 300 watt RMS amp with no issues fir a few months but last week it started going into protect mode constantly. Its very frustrating. I was going to throw in a different amp. I have another of the same amp in my Yukon. But I'll try this first

[@chrisolavarrieta]

Did it work for you??? I'm curious because I'm in the same boat but scared to try it being that it's my only reliable source for work???

[@jackq5038]

I have a 2008 Silverado 5.3 with the DR44 without the G on my alternator will it work the same?

[@hausboxes]

Dosent take much on the gain knob from 40 to 70 volts

[@MattsShop]

I set my gains with an oscilloscope. You're right. It doesn't take much to turn the gain up too much.

[@jameswendellmiller]

My 21 Super duty 6.2L with 200amp alternator does the same thing. My voltmeter dial shows 15v then it and the amp go out. Unplugged the harness and now I'm running a voltage of 13.1 - 14.

[@cody6.6max]

I have one for u … Lets see if u know the answer to The fix . My system been fine last months notice the subs will cut on and off . Has nothing to do with driving over bumps nothing n sitting in the driveway parked . I can turn the volume up higher on my radio and it will Turn the subs on but not to there full potential.. when I lower it below 14 it will shut off . The amps on and never goes into protect mode ever . I’ve checked ground , power , remote all have 12-14 volts I checked the subs and wires with meter and only works will the subs hit and nothing when it’s off. Used a 9 volt battery to test subs they work … I bought a 3.5 jack for my iPhone so I turn the amp radio on unplug my RCAs , plug my phone RCAs and play a bass tone and the subs play the whole time …. So I know now the issue is in the front of the truck not the amp back … swapped out RCAs nothing . Tested with multimeter in back of head unit in the sw preout and get nothing . So my head unit works great but the sub rca jack is down I reckon what ya think

[@derekanderson4744]

This works I have a very high powered amp and subs and I did this and it solved the problem thank you my truck is a 1999 f-150

[@derekanderson4744]

My truck is also a 1999 f-150

[@MattsShop]

Good to know. I didn't know it would work on these old trucks.

[@benbrockman5142]

Now i did this and it fixed the problem but, now my treble completely cuts off but the bass stays hitting

[@Mr.Hoskin]

I have a 2017 Silverado with the RVC, and I installed a high output alternator 370 amps. If I disconnect the RVC, should I also disconnect the pin on the alternator? Thanks in advance.

[@Blaze60955]

Good amps need power point blank, an after marked alternator and a dedicated amp battery works if you have a strong amp needs more power 2 batteries may be needed

[@MattsShop]

Yea, I agree. It's just really expensive to do an aftermarket alternator and extra batteries. You are talking at LEAST $700 if you get good name brand stuff with all of the cables, terminals, alternator, and batteries. So I just unplugged the sensor and deal with it. If I was running 1000's of Watts and many more amps/subs it'd be worth it though.

[@frankstein9426]

Matt, you still taking comments on this amp protection mode issue? And not hating, im absolutely want to bypass don't even want to see that dam red protection mode light. Well this resolve work on 02 Dodge Dakota slt 5.9L, V8. The chart u show, Commanded Duty Cycle bout 30%-60%, it's up & down Generator Output Voltage about 12V-14V that's also up & down. battery more likely, needs replaced anyway. so well this resolve work on 02 Dodge Dakota, Matt

[@quinndenson5410]

Do you think this will work on 07 Jeep Wrangler?

[@MattsShop]

Maybe, if the charging system is similar. Most likely no though.

[@MyAndroid423]

I have the same issue with my Jeep wrangler. So how do I solve the problem

[@jessicatweten5794]

I’m trying to transfer this concept to a 2010 ram - I’m a Mercedes’ and Toyota chick and trying to match up the wire you disconnect with the one you show isn’t hattnin’ can you tell me it’s technical name so I can match it on my schematics? This truck isn’t mine but has been without a system for over two months and I’m over it. Thanks for your help :)

[@MattsShop]

It could be hard to find out if it would work. I'm not familiar with the charging system on those trucks. I wouldn't just go unplugging many wires though. Have you tried unplugging the harness wire from the top of the alternator and then reading the voltage at the battery? If you can't find the wire in the schematic you might have to control the voltage a different way on those trucks. This is called a PWM charging system.

[@threadtapwhisperer5136]

A 3-6 farad capacitor will help immensely yo. the intermittent sub bass hit drag on the charging system needs some support. 3farad is dope with my 4500 watts, 2x15, 1x10 subs and 4 JBL 6x9s plus component door speakers "ahem" kinda custom hotrodded into the stock door cards. MAKE SURE YA verify the GND wires and the REMOTE titryurn on wiring ESPECIALLY WHEN DAISY CHAINING TO MULTIPLE AMPS AS THE SWITCH ON SOURCE, oreilly auto has some totally deece cheaper-ish distrobutiion blocks whatfer ensuring your various leads dont make their own resistance due to the current multiplied by the resistance of the overall mechanical connection, not that I just had this very specific irritating audio issue or anything. but the jams, whence the time hath come for which to be kicked out, MC5 done toldeth us those jammy jams must be forthwith hitherunto kicked depleting the audio jam kickage ability of a slamming jamming and finely tweaked and EQ'd dystem blueballs the funk directly out of the brick house and immediately into audible system SPL range disgrace, gotta kick out the jams when the playlist is hot gotta hide yo kids, hide yo wife when the bass aint thicker than a snicker with crisp clean highs ALMOST hurtin the eardrums. enough system to whince when ya crank your favorite song. thats the sweetness. no distortion, no warbles

[@memenation9482]

I have 2 12s in my 2007 2500hd and it just stopped working one day and I thought it was the amp well no that wasn’t the issue it goes straight into protection mode with both amps when bass starts hitting so I bought 0 grade wiring kit and it’s still doing it so I’m wondering if it’s my radio or this is the issue who knows what’s going on

[@TKD187]

I'll try it I have a 02 Tahoe iv been having the same problem but I thought it was a factory amp I disconnected all of that stuff and it still is going into protection

[@MattsShop]

I'd put a multimeter at the amp and watch the voltages to see what it reads when it goes into protect.

[@TKD187]

@@MattsShop all I had to do was move my amp closer I had it all the way in the third row with 8 gauge wire.. only problem I have now is my sub amp gets extremely hot but it never goes into protect it used to do the same thing and another vehicle I had it in I just don't run it for that long

[@drvictoria07]

So basically, I'll need to upgrade my alternator??

[@drvictoria07]

I don't even have the big 3 upgrade. Just two xs power batteries and good ground wires.

[@MattsShop]

Big 3 helps. A bigger alternator or an alternator with an adjustable voltage regulator.

[@serkanbeyhan493]

Mine is unplugged still starting it with protection mode changed wires and everything checked them if they loose or broke but everything is alright but keep going in protection mode

[@MattsShop]

Does it do it immediately or after playing for a while?

[@serkanbeyhan493]

@@MattsShop immediately when i turn it on blown channel and something else i think

[@makeitrainmoodymane874]

Bro I am having this same problem and before watching your video I was becoming completely clueless and about ready to give up ... I have an 06 Sierra and it sounds like this may be my problem so I’m about to go out and try it ... wish me luck 😃

[@itzyoungblood8786]

Did it work? I haven’t even looked in my 08 Grand Prix gxp

[@MattsShop]

That is very encouraging. These are the exact situations I make these videos for.

[@jwdubz7]

@@itzyoungblood8786 i have the same car did you figure anything out

[@shannageorge7661]

I keep having a problem where my amps go into protect mode.I have 0 gauge wire everywhere,3 amps a higher output alternator and 2 batteries.I been to 3 shops and no one can figure it out.Its getting annoying and costly

[@MattsShop]

What vehicle?

[@h8h81]

I have this issue on a 2008 dodge caliber with 250a high output alternator.

[@dannydd4849]

Bear with me😋 how can you connect the power straight to the body and to the battery 🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️

[@MattsShop]

The ground cables go straight to the body, frame, and battery to get an awesome ground.

[@steveespinoza200]

You mean the negative is connected to the ground on the truck. I hope you dident connect the postive side to the ground?

[@dannydd4849]

@@steveespinoza200 listen I have experience with electronics and audio equipment on cars the only issue I had was the video at 1.19 seconds or 1.15 you can see that all the wires going to the battery are black it's hard to identify which of the cables is the positive but in my experience in a car in the right-hand side part of the battery can never be positive because it's going to be closer to the body or Fender and that could make contact any given way or situation I don't even understand how they even get to tighten the terminal on the battery without making contact with the fender and if it would have been identified as positive red I would not have the doubt that the wire coming from the fender to the left side of the battery would have been positive that's how it should have been if the battery would have been in the correct position and not with the negative in the other side dangerously near the body or fender 🙄🤷‍♂️

[@dillongump2643]

You just saved a headache I've been dealing with for 2 years on my truck. Mine is a 2011 silverado with a 4.8. My main amp was always good but my 4 channel amp for the door speakers would always cut out when the bass would hit. I could see my voltage would peak at 15.8v sometimes and I imagine would spike just a tad more when it bassed.

[@MattsShop]

Awesome! Yea, I found the exact same thing. When the bass hit I'd get 15.5 volts and protect mode. Took me FOREVER to figure out.

[@dillongump2643]

@@MattsShop my idea was to put some sort of resistor right at the 4 channel amp.

[@MattsShop]

Yea, I got desperate and was going to do something crazy like that too.

[@dillongump2643]

@@MattsShop let me know if you find a different type of fix to get the battery light off. I think if you get the upgraded alternator the computer will still send the voltage up when you turn it up.

[@MattsShop]

Yea, the upgraded alternator is the fix. I don't know if that will fix the battery light.

[@coreyfritz7951]

All u woulda had to do is run it ground wire from the amplifier threw the amp clamp by the battery on the negative side

[@thee1jones449]

You gotta be kiddingg me... this shit worked... everytime i went over 2000 rpms my amp cut out... thank you good sir... i think it's a CHEVY thing

[@MattsShop]

You're welcome it's a Chevy thing. It's how the computer is programmed.

[@jamesmoler3097]

I have a 2021 trailblazer. My amp has been rewired 3 times and not fixed. I contacted Rockford Fosgate about it. They said to use a 1amp diode. Which way would be better?

[@MattsShop]

I have never heard of wiring a diode inline. Sounds like a great way to start a fire. You need to hook a multimeter up at the amp so you can see what the volts are when it goes into protect.

[@mhafifihashim2804]

Can u help me?my car grounding ok,but once i start run my car,my amp protect..my voltage 12.7-14.2..its will be on 12.7-13.1 when my car turning the light and aircond. Can u help me?

[@MattsShop]

If that's your voltage and it stays steady then the voltage is good. I'd make sure the speakers/subs are wired right. Are they wired to an impedance (Ohm) load the amp can handle? Are there any loose wire strands touching each other at the terminals and shorting out?

[@kyleh5356]

horrible idea people don't do this it might keep the amp from going into protect yes but it's not because you have to much power I'm a mechanic and been in to car audio my whole life the only reason I clicked this is because my pioneer amp goes into protect now I figured it out the problem it was just the little 250 watt amp couldn't handle to 12 so it would get super hot at 1. ohm or 2 and 4 ohms. but I hooked it up in my gpas ext cab to a little pioneer 8 inch sounds great and stopped going into protect. but anywya back into why u shouldn't do this is bcuz them wires u disconnected powers other things in the car and some of the computer tho yes u disconnected it still works its not good for it nor are u getting less power if anything ur getting more your cars computer regulates how much power is actually coming from the battery and if something draws to much power in newer cars the computer stops the flow complete and or does not let it succeed a certain voltage . if anything ur amp seems like it wasn't getting enough power to power both of them beasts. try a second battery or cap garuntee it bwill stop doing this without ruining ur car n alternator. shit it might even add more thumb to the bass.

[@pastvanity]

Kyle Heslip I have the same problem, I have a xtr2500 and it goes into protect as soon as the bass hits and I can’t figure out why it was working fine for the longest and out of no where it started going into protect. I checked my grounds and moved it a few times ,ran a new power wire, replaced the alternator with an high output alternator and my battery is fairly new haven’t had it for a year yet any help would be appreciated

[@hectorarchila4429]

Will this work on my 98 honda accord

[@MattsShop]

Probably not unless it has this 2 wire alternator.

[@thee1jones449]

Been ridin like this for 5months I ran a toggle switch to the inside of my truck so i can switch it back on when im not usin subs

[@Tyler-jt5iw]

My amp shut off when the cars driving but as soon as i come to a stop its bumpin again? Any help would be awesome

[@bassmansl9596]

Smart fix

[@MattsShop]

Smart man

[@neverthatnever]

My 98 Lincoln does the same i have 2 15s massive, and a 6000w amp from Rockville and it dies once the bass starts hitting hard 🤦‍♂️

[@jbl8916]

Do you have any Capacitors...

[@neverthatnever]

Do i actually need that tho

[@swaggin6314]

neverthatnever yes......

[@LivinLoudwithAndy]

You need power to make power- capacitors do not make power they only store power and very little at that- you have more capacitance in your amp than a 1 farad cap.. add audio agm batteries and/ or upgrade alt .. 0g wire ect ..

[@MattsShop]

Did you check your voltages to see what is going on when the bass hits?

[@RyDaHero10]

Would this work on a Chevy cruze 2016? My amp goes into protect slamming for 10 minutes. No big 3 stock battery and alt. It might just be its a cheap skar amp but it never went into protect this quickly.

[@MattsShop]

I'd start with the BIG 3 for sure. Then hook a multi-meter up at the amp to see what the voltage is doing, and why it is going into protect.

[@politicalminds]

I have these issues in a BMW 5 Series (F10) 2014 and do you think there is a similar fix for my car?

[@aslmx1918]

My 06 does the same thing and when it overcharges it cuts the blower motor off. Frustrating

[@jackhammell1926]

Will it work on my Subaru?

[@MattsShop]

Probably not.

[@hooptastic_hippie8522]

I may sound stupid but could this be a problem in a 2015 toyota corrola s?? I really have no idea my new amp is also going into protect and I can't figure out why yet

[@MattsShop]

It could have a similar charging system. Don't just unplug the sensor wire though. You really need to watch a volt meter to see what's happening.

[@hooptastic_hippie8522]

@@MattsShop i will check asap..and thank you

[@ziggyzag6128]

Do you connect the power wire to the altinator? Or leave it to the battery and just unplug the altinator?

[@georgec6228]

Hmmm....I've had this issue but with a dodge ram but the alternator is the same set up I get this shit off at high volume especially with my 350 amp alternator . I noticed the volume ts aren't dropping at the dash but amps are definitely cutting out into protection I'll have to pull the pcm harness plug and see if that's a fix I know it's not my wiring it's all solid . I never thought about over voltage.

[@danks2real314]

Did it work

[@georgec6228]

@@danks2real314 No the amplifier was defective was under warranty and swapped it out . Now the only time I have it cut out is when my trucks grid heaters are on an it draws power on cold start up days so I don't turn on the system until truck is warm or disconnect the grid heater . I think I screwed the first amp up I was tired when I installed it and accidentally swapped b+ for ground at the amp and when I hooked up at the battery it sparked I didn't continue to hook it up I immediately checked my connection back at the amp and realized my mistake but I think that caused the issue I ended up getting luckily... warranty...

[@floridianking5073]

I need your help with my GMC Sierra, my factory amp is blown, and ran my door speakers to a aftermarket amp, and it goes straight into protect mode. Why is that?

[@MattsShop]

Uh oh. Door speakers are a weird impedance. Most aftermarket speakers are 2 or 4 ohm speakers. That could cause a problem. Did you run new wires? That's probably your problem.

[@jermygreen6787]

you had me aT FREE FIX just wish you would of gave me some scenarios or examples just to help troubleshoot better...good video..wats clik bait?

[@keepnitreal7142]

Mayn just get a rebuilt 150$ generator repair or go to Napa auto parts for 125$ Long video disconnect and connect everyday too much ( ALTERNATOR ) solves problems Rtlk)

[@danks2real314]

So if my amp turns of win shows it’s clipping it might have a weak ground or this ,and if not that I need a high output alternator?, cuz I remember my last set up wouldn’t cut out when clipping the hell out of them 😮

[@petermckisick9849]

So i have a 04 yukon rite i started off with a power accoustic bamf 3000 watt amp a 3800 watt power accoustic bamf 15 inch sub rand tht for two years no issues beat the block down till I blew the sub rite…. So i got two deaf bounce apocalypse 2200 watt 15’s and it keeps going in to protection mode rite … do you think i need to get a bigger watt amp for these two subs

[@oG0NZALEZo]

My amp just started going into protection mode. After 5 solid years of working perfectly fine, one day it just started going into protection mode. It happened more when the volume is turned up and sometimes at random when the volume is on low. Im rocking a Pioneer Gm- D9601 and I have Two Pioneer TS- W308D2 hooked up to it. I am completely lost, I tried this and still going into protection mode. I can’t seem to figure it out. Any Help?

[@cody6464]

I've got a pioneer GM-D8601 running all o gauge with a 4 farad capacitor, nothing's fixing it, so pretty sure my amp is slowly dieing make it self protect

[@MattsShop]

Guys, check your wiring and make sure your grounds are good and clean. Also, make sure every single connection is tight. Make sure no little strands are poking out touching anything. Hook up a multimeter at the amp and make sure you got good voltage. My Hifonics amp did this and I had to take it apart and repair it. All the MOSFETS were blown.

[@MattsShop]

Mine was doing this with loud bass popping noises. It finally quit working altogether and stayed in red LED protect mode. I had to take it apart and repair it at a component level. New MOSFETS, a couple capacitors, the drive circuit transistors, and the drive circuit IC.

[@nickloss]

Clean your ground connection

[@MattsShop]

Yea, please make sure that your ground connection is perfect.

[@majesty_tv2744]

Will work on 2018 Honda Accord ?

[@MattsShop]

Prob not