An Excellent Tail-Stock Machine Screw Tapping Chuck Set-Up

[@kenshelhamer9816]

I'm an old mold maker and really enjoy your skilled craftsmanship and engineering skills, many thanks for sharing your talents.

[@tonyfrederick2715]

All of your material is most valuable and beautifully produced.

[@joshuamckown3145]

Very cool, and a convenient alternative to single-point threading.

[@Xynudu]

Hi Steve, I gave up using a drill chuck in the tailstock years ago. They just tear everything to hell. I use an ER32 collet chuck now - taps and drills rarely move. The Morse taper generally lets go first. Sanou is a brand name of Fuerda. I reviewed a Fuerda scroll chuck a few years back and it was total rubbish (not the same quality since they moved production to China). I've looked at the Sanou chucks on BG and considered reviewing one, but the previous experience put me off. Glad to see they appear to have lifted their game. Cheers Rob

[@davedunn4285]

Very informative Steve thank you Mate I am learning more and more off you my friend Thankyou mate

[@JimmiePorterAtStuartArts]

Great solution. I've fought the spinning tap problem too many times. Thanks!

[@billmaguire6216]

Some times one can use a square socket with a hex drive in the drill chuck but then the Morse tapper might slip with bigger taps. Your ideas have helped me enhance my tooling for my 10" Atlas. I just got the 7 set tail stock but from Shars here in the US. My order kept "Processing" with Banggood. I have the seven set carbide holder kit coming from them. You have so much fun in your little shop, I love it. Good for you.

[@eddyfontaineyoutu100]

Good idea ! 👍 Nice addition to the lathe accessories. Thank you Steve !

[@steveallen8987]

Excellent video. Great idea. Flawless presentation. Very useful.

[@joedrouin6957]

Thanks for the video Steve ! I've shamelessly copied your idea and am very happy with the result. Cheers !

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Joe, That's great....Thanks for watching Regards Steve

[@thecorbies]

Excellent modification/addition. Thanks for sharing. Regards Mark in the UK

[@lostjohnny9000]

Great idea. This will be my next purchase

[@tinker5291]

Splendid video Steve! Absolutely brilliant!

[@blacksmith9451]

exellent work Steve!!! I love this channel. It's so great! 😄

[@elidari60]

Hi on the for jaws chuck could you use a rectangle object and does a self-centered thank you

[@RaptorMachineToolCo]

Nice job Steve! Thanks for the links

[@ChrisB257]

I've considered some sort of different chuck usage on tail stock - that one seems very good. Most effective. You may have mentioned but I guess you got the backplate separately.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Chris I made the back-plate up out of an old cast iron 2LB scales weight.

[@grahameblankley3813]

Hi Steve Another excellent video thanks for sharing.

[@rayfalcoa1955]

excellent video,steve....very interesting....waiting for the next one.....

[@ninjanelly3506]

Brilliant result as always Steve 👍🏻

[@davedunn4285]

Very informative Steve

[@anthonycash4609]

Hi Steve , very good video. I like the fact you can use a draw bar on the tail stop on a Myford lathe. I have a South Ben and it does not have a threw hole to be able to use a draw bar on the tail stop. I wish it did this is a very good solution for a common problem. I do like the small 4 jaw self centering chuck. I can see a lot of useable situation for it. And the price is not bad either. Keep the videos coming I love your imagination.

[@donaldnaymon3270]

Great idea. Work great. Many things this would work for. Thank you for sharing

[@diggumsmack2]

Great video, as per usual Steve. Thanks for info

[@glennfelpel9785]

Excellent ideas and information. Thank you Steve.

[@johnhall8455]

50mm self centering 4 jaw chucks are available usually threaded m12 or 14…much smaller and lighter, but need a little thought regarding securing the chuck onto the threaded arbor…

[@nlo114]

19:36 - Happy chuck sounds in the background! :-)

[@MrLukealbanese]

Super video Steve. You could buy some inexpensive spiral machine taps from Banggood too, and not have to tip back and forth with the handle, or to power tap more confidently.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Luke, I have just ordered some of those....looking forward to trying them out!

[@BillyTpower]

your demo was great for threading hex stock, however when threading round stock, which is a much more common scenario, you will still spin the job in the headstock chuck. Will you not?

[@edgeeffect]

Murphy's law says that when you were showing us the tap spinning in the keyless chuck whould be that ONE TIME (and one time only) that the tap went all the way to the bottom of the whole without the slightest hint of a spin.

[@FishmanEricRussell]

Great job and info. Thanks for sharing.

[@CliffsShed]

Incidently Steve, clicking on the link for the chuck, you cant get it! not in the uk anyway?

[@AJC-jo3ds]

What if your tailstock doesn’t have the thru hole like on the mini lathe? Can you use this on mini lathe? Thx

[@SteveJordan]

SEE THE SELF CENTERING 80MM 4 JAW CHUCK LINK BELOW. SANOU K12-80 Lathe Chuck Tool -- goo.gl/WU2TB1 More Lathe Tools -- goo.gl/D3awY9 Wholesale Mechanical Parts -- goo.gl/uupC6k

[@ypaulbrown]

Bravo, well done.......

[@anthonycash4609]

Steve I received my 80 mm chuck in the mail today and was very pleased. Do you recommend changing the back plate screws with either stainless steel or either grade 8 screws. Due to the ones that came with it looks to be grade 5 screws. I plan to use it for the bigger taps and was wondering about the shear factor with the ones that came with it. Thanks for all the info and videos.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Anthony, I always use stainless steel allen bolts on my chucks and other fixtures. Also I forgot to mention it, but my chuck came with 3 cross-head screws that held the cover on the back of the chuck. I took these out and replaced them with allen bolts, which are easier to remove when cleaning the inside. Regards Steve

[@robertbarr8001]

Love the chicken noises in the background - perfect !

[@unclebobsworkshop1865]

Really appreciate your videos, Steve. Thanks for sharing your experience/knowledge. It's the first time I've seen what looked like thread cutting GREASE, not oil. What is it?

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Its thread cutting paste. It used to be sold under the name Rocol. I have a large tin of it I bought from my local recycling centre....Regards Steve

[@unclebobsworkshop1865]

Thanks Steve, Rocal turns out to be the company name. Does the tin have a product name on it? thx.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi I will have a look later, but it is an old tin and not made today. If I didn't have it though I would buy this one on Ebay, which I know would be just as good, if not better. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Molyslip-MCC-450g-tin-metalworking-compound-cutting-drilling-tapping-paste-RTD/261779091407?epid=794920887&hash=item3cf33fefcf:g:22MAAOSwa39UuPyV There are many other makes as well. I wrongly said 'Thread Cutting Paste'....It is Thread Cutting Compound.

[@unclebobsworkshop1865]

Thanks Steve. I've found it. Looks very good for tapping holes on vertical surfaces.

[@dand6144]

Hi Steve, your videos are among the best around! No BlaBla but always on the topic, with brilliant ideas and you speak clear & slow enough for us non-native-speakers :-) May I ask why you have both the (very beautiful) Myford (wish I had one) and the not-as-sexy mini lathe (which I will probably buy, not least due to your videos)? I mean: I've seen in one of your videos that you don't have much space in your workshop and having both of them seems a bit on the "wasteful" side!? Keep up the great work & greetings from Germany

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Thanks.. I had the Chinese mini lathe for some years before my brother gave me the Myford and used it, and still do, to make some really nice precision components. I like having two lathes as I can swap over to another quickly when making things and when one is down for one reason or another. Also the Mini lathe has several attributes that the Myford doesn't have. It has a larger through bore on the spindle mandrel and a better chuck mounting system that enables reverse spindle machining. The Myford can't do this without a special fixture as the chuck can unscrew from the mandrel. I also like to prove that one can use a lower cost lathe and still make the same components one makes on expensive lathes. This shows newcomers to engineering, that it can be an affordable thing to do. I've heard people say 'why don't you get a professional machine when they see someone with a Chinese Mini Lathe. I don't actually believe there is such a thing as a 'professional machine' with model makers lathes. This is because one can make exactly the same precision components on all these types of lathes, regardless of where or who made them..Regards Steve

[@dand6144]

@@SteveJordan Thank you for taking the time to answer my question, Steve. I feel you are absolutely right. At first I was looking for a cheap lathe to get (re-)started. I have some experience on bigger lathes, but this experience dates back 30 years, now. My thinking was: "With a small lathe you will be able to turn smaller parts, but still accurately enough". However, after having read through some (apparently the wrong) forums I got insecure, as everybody was telling the "buy proper, buy once, save time, save money - and never buy Chinese" story. Frankly, I would really love to have a nice old European, American, Russian machine, restoring it, enjoy the appearence, touch & feel and some history. But honestly: the biggest problem is not the price: you can get a good old lathe for about the same price as a good, brand new chinese model, but the thing is that they are huge and HEAVY. Getting such a beauty into my cellar would be a project of its own ... And then we need to talk about space/performance ratio! And then you need to make these old ladies fit for purpose. Another project. Your videos (and your comments about some limitations of the beautiful Myford) have fully convinced me: I'll buy the mini lathe, get back up to speed and learn what needs to be done to maybe rebuild one of these old ladies in the future. I'm sure that your videos will be extremely helpful with that. Cheers, Dan

[@cojonudojoe7064]

Could you tell me if it's compatible with Einhell BT-ML 300 mini lathe? Thanks....

[@CliffsShed]

Nice one Steve, thanks for sharing, atb.

[@MrRatkilr]

exactly what I am doing to my lathe. nice

[@MultiBadlad]

bang good are using this video to promote this chuck .you got fans in china by the look of it Steve ,

[@simranjeetsingh6789]

can i tap like this in stainless steel with a tap of 7 x 1

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Yes you could. I generally start the tap off in harder materials, so the tap is square in the end, then finish off by hand in a vice.

[@morganmanley4497]

Steve Jordan Qi. S

[@MarkATrombley]

When you were running the tap back and forth the 4 jaw chuck was turning a bit each direction but I had expected it to be solid. What was letting it move?

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Mark it is the quill of the tail-stock. I didn't lock the lever so it has a bit of free movement...Regards Steve

[@lacaver64]

Ivent this plate but I need it and other plate that I need is the rotery 3 jaw chuck this is other tool that is go very good in the lathes bye

[@5b4aezmarinoscyprus71]

Hi Mr. Steve, is there any particular reason for choosing a 80mm chuck. There are much smaller ie 45 or 50mm which are much lighter than this bulky one....?

[@SteveJordan]

I like this one for large drills plus a lot of the smaller ones don't have an actual chuck key operation.

[@ZenMinus]

Good video. "You're only meant to use one of them all the time"??? Where did you hear this? If that was the case then manufacturers would keep the price down by only installing ONE chuck key hole, less machining, less parts = less overhead. So do you always rotate the chuck to use the ONE chuck key position? (if using as a normal lathe chuck) When I was taught machining back in the early-mid sixties, by very knowledgeable teachers and machinists (people that knew what they were talking about), it was recommended that all chuck key holes be used (this is rare on the internet videos I watch). If you think about this logically, using a single chuck key hole will bias the jaws/material toward or away from that location. This has a tendency to offset the part in the chuck as the other jaws are "loose". You will always find that using a single chuck key hole (any of those available) will leave some looseness in the other chuck key locations. You can confirm this by tightening the chuck by using the other chuck key locations where you will obtain motion until they all all tightened properly! Using ALL chuck key locations has at least two advantages, the material in the chuck will be more "centered" (with respect to the quality of the chuck) and the material in the chuck will be gripped tighter and firmer. This "rule" also applies to drill chucks used in a drill press (or similar), though I doubt if many "users" consider using more than one drill chuck key hole. It DOES make a difference. I do admit it's difficult to use all three holes in a drill chuck mounted in a tailstock, so I bow to convenience in that instance.

[@grahameblankley3813]

ZenMinus HHMMMMM.

[@SteveJordan]

We were taught that using the one marked keyhole is the correct way by very skilled engineering teachers in the aerospace industry back in the 70's. They also knew what they were talking about, working in very tight tolerances. So I have always followed suit. They specified that it aids repeat-ability on the feel of tightness and concentricity using only one and that the one that is marked was the one they used in the chuck factory to set and grind the jaws. Many people still hold to that thesis today and show that they can prove it with dial test indicators. We were also taught that one only uses all three keyholes to obtain tightness if chucks were badly worn, which seemed correct at the time of learning. There is still much debate on the subject today and if you search the internet there are both camps of engineers that each swear by their chosen method or by their own set of instructors. I think it is just a matter of preference and how people were taught during their apprenticeships. Plus one gets used to the feel and setting of their own machinery as to how they use it. Its no big issue and not something that is worth trying to prove.

[@erlingweiseth2774]

I agree with You here, ZenMinus, and I'm willing to bet, using two chuck keys at the same time - and every time, would be the most precise method in the long run. I think I might buy a 4-jaw, two keys - and prove it!

[@somebodyelse6673]

Your logic seems reasonable, but is dependent on the assembly being perfectly concentric, radially symmetrical, and most notably, wear free. The purpose of using one key hole is to identify the one that best compensates for the real sum of wear and imprecision, which brings the end result closer to that ideal true axis. The idea is not that there is one 'correct' key hole to use as the manufacturer intended. Instead, there is often one key hole that can be used to bias the work closer to true because it compensates for wear or manufacturing tolerance variation. You may not see it with a new chuck because there isn't any wear to compensate for. It is trivial to demonstrate with a well worn chuck and a test bar. Using the different key holes will produce different results, and a machinist can use that to good effect.

[@erlingweiseth2774]

What we want, is low runout repeatability. Best way to get it - besides buying a quality chuck, is to use both chuck key holes, at the same time. Every time. The second key pushes on the scroll in the opposite direction of the first one, and reduces the radial forces to a minimum. With the exact same force from both keys, these radial forces is zero. When the chuck gets old and worn out, You can look back on at least slightly better overall runout readings than if You continue to wear the scroll on one side only. Using one key only - and the same hole every time, will produce exessive radial forces and wear in the same place and direction, every time the chuck is tightened. What happens - when the jaws meet the work piece with a certain force, is that the first jaw - in the direction the scroll moves, has to take more loads than the last jaw. Tighten a chuck on a 1/2" piece a million times, with one key - then open the chuck and inspect! This are the laws of physics. The scroll is pushed up against the same jaw, over and over again. And this leads to this jaw not pushing as hard against the work piece, due to wear - which is the same thing as low repeatability. But of course - I wouldn't hesitate to go on with the work, even if one of my keys got lost!

[@thomashvnmusic]

Hey guys, can anyone recommend a cheap good metal lathe with international shipping?

[@oppanheimer]

only good if your tailstock is hollow through the wheel handle end.

[@smallcnclathes]

That seems a lot of effort when an ER collet will do the job. I use ER 16 for 1/4 npt in brass and it does not let go at 600 rpm. As for the using only one hole in a chuck, try making 400 parts and tell me you are going to waste time looking for one particular hole. I guess some people might but I like to get the job finished. This is a bit like all the videos about chuck runout, I have never understood the youtube fascination with chuck accuracy, I have four inch TOS chucks in three and four jaw and I have no idea of their accuracy and I won't be checking them. They work well and parts made by being reversed when turned are accurate enough to suit my customer, that is as accurate as I need.

[@SteveJordan]

ER collet chucks are slower to use than a self centering 4 jaw chuck, having to change collets for different sized tools and having to clean them each time. This method I have shown here speeds up production greatly. The ER collet chucks are more suited to CNC machines unless using on the headstock spindle. Having one in a lathe tailstock must be a pain in the neck! If you use this 4 jaw method you will get the job finished much quicker being able to swap tools so quickly.

[@SteveJordan]

SEE SOME EXCELLENT NEW VEVOR MUST HAVE TOOLS:- shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2348661&u=3715355&m=95592&urllink=&afftrack=

[@Gkuljian]

That's an interesting setup. I may have to do that for my lathe. I would like anyone to explain the physics behind only using one of the drive gears for tightening chucks. I see no evidence for that theory. It's a scroll that rotates on a fitted bore, and does not care where it is driven from, unless I'm missing something.

[@steveclark..]

I'd like to know the reason why you should only use one of those holes to tighten a chuck too, I've been using all the holes on my 3 jaw chuck.

[@Gkuljian]

I imagine it's that the factory tests the chuck with one of the drives, and that even though there is slop in the scroll gear, as long as you use that same driver, you get the same factory result with the position of the jaws. But scroll chucks aren't precision chucks. And when the scroll wears, that negates this notion of using a preferred driver. Maybe there's another reason. I can't think of one.

[@clivegrant9965]

Collet chuck much easier and cheaper to use ,never had any trouble at all using one

[@SteveJordan]

The 4 jaw is quicker to use rather than changing collet sizes

[@spudnickuk]

A four jaw chuck is expensive, all taps have a flat spot, and all have about 10mm flat spot, so just drill and tap for a 5mm crub screw to the required location of the flat spot on a Jacobs chuck in between the gap of the jaws, this should be fine from 8mm tap upwards, this only cost me £16 and not £120 Or machine or buy a no 2 type taper then make a block that fits onto the mt2 that goes in tailstock that you can insert tap and tighten up using Alan bolts,

[@iancraig1951]

Not a lot of science in my method of tapping in the lathe--I grind 3 flats on the tap and in it goes to the tailstock chuck..Then a lathe dog on the chuck to stop that turning and thats it.. Still exercise care and back out a lot and thats it Steve..E

[@SteveJordan]

I wouldn't want to grind my expensive taps.

[@Contango1000]

Is it just me or did this feel like a commercial? Why not use an ER collet chuck instead?

[@tcarney57]

Yes, it's just you. Had Steve used an ER collet chuck and told us where he got it, I suppose that would also be a commercial, too?

[@SteveJordan]

The 4 jaw is quicker to use.....not having to change collets.

[@arthurkemp7762]

I have the same lathe but doesn’t have the handle to turn it manually is that a part you can buy for it or did you make it

[@SteveJordan]

facebook.com/steve.jordan.3766952

[@mclam5623]

What an overkill. Use your lifecenter and a wrench. The leg of the wrench will block, you just have to turn the tailstick in/out.

[@SteveJordan]

It is bad practice to use a wrench with machine tapping. Its much safer using the 4 jaw chuck.

[@leehotspur9679]

@@SteveJordan Using a Tap handle resting on the toolpost with tap square end on a l centre is the correct method If you tailstock is not aligned left or right or the bed is worn the tapped hole will be oversized Also if your headstock is not aligned same will happen Same goes with machine reamers A floating tool gives more accuracy and less breakages or mangled shanks

[@bobsradio6025]

Are you OK? Your breathing sounds much worse than mine, and I'm 77 years old, on oxygen and have trouble walking out to my shop. The only thing that I can say that's good about living in California is their strong anti smoking laws that keeps other people's deadly nonsense away from people that are behaving themselves. Keep up the good work, but please, take it easy and have a doctor check out your breathing.

[@SteveJordan]

There's nothing wrong with my breathing plus I don't smoke or get near anyone that does. It sounds like you must have a hearing problem, those hearing aids can play up if they are set too loud. You should get that checked out?

[@bobsradio6025]

@@SteveJordan - I'm glad to hear that you are OK. Thanks for your concern, but my hearing problem is so minor that I do not wear a hearing aid because the only problem I have is solved by always using my left ear for the telephone. When I was young, I would sometimes forget to take my ear valves with me to the range. I would usually shoot Olympic style (not police style) which exposed my right ear to the noise. My .44 Magnum was not kind to my right ear. So I don't hear things, but I really did think I heard you breathing heavy.

[@mrrelliot4950]

Had to stop watching this video , your voice just runs on like you have drop jaw, apart from that the footage is okay for beginers to pick up on.

[@SteveJordan]

Sorry about that my batteries were running low on charge and the springs in my lower jaw went out of control.