...and how to use them wisely | Duncan Rhodes

Varnishes. Love 'em or hate 'em they are a really useful tool in any painter's arsenal especially if you use your miniatures for tabletop battles. In this video, we show you talk a little about Varnishes and how to apply them, how they can be used as well as 3 great tips on how Dunc likes to use them himself for his own miniatures as well as his favorite trick to get a finish that he loves on his miniatures.
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[@ultimapanzer]

I’ve had Munitorum frost on me, especially here in Texas when it’s really hot. But I’ve found that just applying a layer of Lahmian Medium afterwards totally fixes it and brings the finish back to normal like magic. Don’t despair if your varnish frosts on you, it can usually be fixed!

[@Squanto22]

If you're near the coast, it might be because of the humidity

[@kyleduquesnay1429]

Fellow Texan here, makes me feel a lot better about the first munitorum varnish I’m going to try soon :) thank you

[@noahwilson422]

I screwed up a bunch of minis I really liked by spray varnishing them in humid weather, I fixed it by putting gloss on with a brush then matte on that. it seemed to bring the color back..

[@tammyschilling5362]

Thanks for this comment. I was all set to get some spray varnish, but now I will skip it. I live on the Chesapeake Bay. It's never not humid.

[@3vilangel5]

You may have just saved some very detailed necrons. Thanks man

[@mirage809]

Another varnishing top tip is that they can make panel lining super easy. A gloss varnish creates a very smooth surface that most washes just wick right off, causing them to run right into the recesses. It gets even better if you kick it up a notch and create an oil wash. A bit more advanced of a technique, but it makes lining all the panels on a space marine downright trivial to do. A great technique if you want to get a bunch of models shaded in very little time. The smooth surface that a gloss varnish creates is also ideal for applying decals. And a matte or satin varnish will do a lovely job to seal the decal in place while protecting it from the elements.

[@DuncanRhodesDRPA]

What a great tip! Thank you for sharing @DR. mirage809 😊

[@scolack123]

This is the 5th time ive seen the Gloss -> washes or decals -> matte or satin varnish finish this week alone learning about varnishes

[@user-fn2rt6lb1o]

Do you matte varnish it after oil washing?

[@mirage809]

@@user-fn2rt6lb1o A matte varnish after oil washing, applying decals, and anything else you wanna do on the gloss varnish is a good idea. It gets rid of the sheen that you may not want on the finished model and it will protect all that stuff you've spend so much time getting right.

[@savagex466-qt1io]

@@mirage809 Are you really a doctor bud ?

[@sabrefayne]

Duncan coming in with the top tips and the gossip 😁👌

[@DuncanRhodesDRPA]

You know it!

[@coyotelifestyle73]

See you mentioned accidentally using primer as a varnish, but in my experience the primer is the single best top coat for keeping the paint underneath protected. Literally top tier

[@KabinMiniatures]

My own varnish journey led me from using rattle cans, to painting by hand and finally to do it with an airbrush. Never looked back once I tried the old magic air shooting machine!

[@Bandarr9000]

What do you use in your airbrush? I'm currently using Vallejo satin varnish but an airbrush would be way easier.

[@Madlittlepixel]

@@Bandarr9000 i use Vallejo Satin Varnish as well, I actually use it through an airbrush. Normally I thin it a little bit and havent had an issue with that varnish at all.

[@KabinMiniatures]

@@Bandarr9000 For most projects I use a 50/50 mix of satin and matte varnish from vallejo, diluted with water. Goes on quick and smooth. And moat importantly: no risk of "frosting" (from a spray can) or creating tiny air bubbles that never pop (like when painting quickly with a big brush).

[@SobotRex]

@@KabinMiniatures Is there any benefit to mixing them directly rather than a coat of satin then coat of matte?

[@KabinMiniatures]

@@SobotRex I mix them to get the right shine and colour saturation I'm after. I personally think Satin is a bit too shiny, but Matt leaves the colours a bit dull. A 50/50 mix is the best of both worlds in my book!

[@consecrated2718]

Omg thank you Duncan! This is THE video all of us gamers need

[@maxxon99]

I sometimes use gloss varnish to pick out shiny parts such as canopies, gems etc. Really makes a difference when the rest of the model is flat matte.

[@tombrand236]

Yep I do this too, a combinAtion of varnishes is worth trying out

[@pitmatix1457]

Generally I like a satin finish to my models but I found using gloss to go over "wet" areas on a model can make a really striking look. Putting gloss on the Great Unclean one's guts, eyes, lips, tongue and sores looked wonderfully gross! 🙂

[@DoubleBrushPainting3Dprinting]

You make everything look so simple!!

[@artusyeddou5792]

Again thank you man, your channel is so useful, If I need something I’ll always find an answer on your channel, the amount of knowledge you have and you share with us is just a goldmine and I really appreciate that.

[@Spartanzx4]

The spraying technique is really helpful for me who's really nervous about using sprays in general, seeing it done rather than being told what's on the can. Won't be so nervous to undercoat future models.

[@Falc0re]

Everybody gangster until spraying finished model with leadbelcher. Great video, motivates me to use it for my board game minis.

[@baronvonklausnitzer4474]

After a few bad experiences with rattle cans I switched to my airbrush for varnishing. Primarily used the AK Ultra Matte and Pledge Revive It for a gloss coat, but recently I've been using the newer Air varnishes from the Army Painter and have been liking them a lot.

[@jac8awol]

Yes!! Ever since I saw someone asking for a varnish tutorial on one of your videos, I was really hoping we'd get it. Thank you so much.

[@PureMetalDragon]

The gloss varnish at 1:40 makes the legionnaire look like he's wearing latex and all oiled up. He's the kinky legionnaire!

[@monkeyhammer]

I always keep a varnish only brush for brush on varnishes and mediums, if you use a brush that has been used for paint, the varnish can reactivate it and pick up pigment even if you think your brush is clean leaving a slightly murky result.

[@derpstick5467]

That must’ve been what happened to me when using a varnish. Does the size of the brush matter when applying a varnish?

[@Fortunes.Fool.]

This is a great video. I live in Virginia where it’s either a humid 92F or freezing cold so spraying varnish is a terrifying prospect. I started brushing on Liquitex varnishes from big bottles and I save quite a bit over a pricey rattle can that haze my minis. I have never tried thinning them with water or medium! Cool!

[@johnperry6201]

Thank you so much, literally the only useful video for finishing miniatures

[@Dave_VanDam84]

With normal sized mini's I've never really bothered with varnishing, I generally handle them by the base. Recently I painted up a few larger metal mini's where this is a lot harder, so thought I'd better varnish them. I used Halfords spray matt lacquer, and it worked great

[@Norseraider84]

This is a brilliant tip ! ❤️🤘🏻 Once had to rescue about 1000 points of failed varnished Necrons just after I had completed them. A video like this would have saved me so much despair and time back then

[@Hirokae]

Amazing video lads. This has to be the most definitive and accessible video in the topic

[@sagebrother]

Great video and full of so many useful tips,thanks!!

[@MrKrabz675]

That AK and Contrast medium mix is exactly what I’ve been looking for! Looks fantastic

[@garethsmith9254]

Very helpful video, thanks Duncan. Not sure whether it's helpful for people or not but in my own experience Stormshield is a rare brush-on matt varnish which is pretty bulletproof once cured (resists fingernails), it's just quite gloopy so needs to be thinned with a tiny amount of water like a damp brush. The only problem is that it clouds a bit when dry if it is applied too thickly and you REALLY need to be aware of your water's mineral content. I was varnishing in an area with very hard water and so much limescale got in my varnish that it ended up going a bit cloudy on my minis, so best to use distilled or bottled spring water. The other thing I've found is that AK Ultra Matte is good on its own but don't try to apply it over gloss using a brush - takes hours as it doesn't cover evenly and has a real propensity to cloud in recesses. You really need an airbrush to use it properly.

[@gerry_bman4652]

Thanks team, great tutorial!

[@yankee1112]

Fantastic video! Thanks for this guys. Can’t wait to try these tricks on my iron warriors!

[@maxpower3050]

I didn't know about turning the can upside down. Thanks for the knowledge!

[@spikers1369]

I loved listening to you. I’m super glad what you and Peachy have done since leaving GW. No offense to GW, but the two of you have really been seeming about helping the hobby and getting people to paint, and have a love of the hobby (in addition to Louise, too!,) which is all fantastic. I’ve backed the first wave of Two Thin Coats (and wave 2,) but have yet to use it due to my schedule, but am looking forward to trying it wave 1 out within the next month (and wave 2 when it arrives.) I just want to thank you for all you you have done for the hobby!

[@johnsteele3858]

Awesome video Duncan thankyou!! A topic that is pretty grey in the community and now we know it all!! Il be using your mix for sure!

[@docremington1589]

Always warm up your spray cans. Putting them in some warm water or on the radiator for a couple of minutes helps a bunch.

[@alcovitch]

Been varnishing minis for years, never did this and never had a problem.

[@philipjackson1589]

Thanks for yhis video Duncan and team. I've had a lot of my questions answered in this video. Once again many thanks

[@Streetsam]

Thank You. Grat advices!

[@kathrynrobinson-burge7661]

Thank you very much for this. Really invaluable information, you answered every question I had and more. Brilliant!!

[@DuncanRhodesDRPA]

You're very welcome!

[@liepsan]

Great video and nice examples!

[@Zectari]

Airbrush: you control the nozzle (dried old parts from previous use), you control the thickness, you control the force and there are no wind and weather to worry about

[@destyrian]

Thanks for this was going to get a matt spray varnish across the board but after watching, I've decided to get Gloss and Matt paint on varnish to apply to different areas as is suitable.

[@thelonepainter4760]

I literally drenched one of my old minis with ak ultra Matt Varnish and still came out great. Love that stuff. I use it with Vallejo satin varnish. Ardcoat only on “wet” or really shiny surfaces.😊👍🏽

[@Lord_Aba]

I've quickly learned the importance of varnishing metal models, as they tend to be the worse for wear and tear during gaming. I've also learned the dangers of spray varnish and humidity. :P A tip if you do get a bad look from a varnish is to go back over it with varnish. I've had one fog up on me, but going over it a second time with a glossier one did help fix it up.

[@thedcmcfarlanetoyscollector]

This video was very helpful, thank you! 🙏

[@rickyl3136]

Great video! Love the secret recipe at the end.

[@Oluabayo]

Good instructional and even better stories:)

[@barrywonderdog]

Great video. Most matt varnishes are gloss varnishes with added chalk. The chalk can precipitate out of a matt varnish leaving the model looking milky. This can often be saved by adding a very thin layer of gloss varnish, as it absorbs the chalky precipitate. The resulting varnish is clear and slightly satin. Also, don't use painted varnishes over inked lettering.

[@marcbowling6451]

And this fact is exactly why just matte over paint makes it more likely to chip rather than leaving it alone... chalky = higher co efficient of friction

[@DeusMachina71]

Not to mention it's already been covered that there is exactly zero benefit to favoring one varnish or another except the finish.. they all provide pretty much the same protection with little difference particularly when its just concerning the basic handling of miniatures. Goobertown hobbies who's a chemist IRL did some tests and demonstrated this.. the Gloss/Matt thing in this regard is mostly a myth

[@marcbowling6451]

@@DeusMachina71 I think it was metal minis that were pretty much the only thing it made any deal difference for IIRC. I actually don't varnish anymore - and I've not had an issue since.

[@derpstick5467]

@@marcbowling6451I guess you don’t handle your minis too roughly to worry about taking the paint off? Or do you not play with your figures?

[@marcbowling6451]

​@derpstick5467 I handle them moderately carefully. I don't obsess too much about baying them and do in fact travel and game with them. The only time I've had paint issues is when I drop a figure and it breaks. The internet echo chamber just keeps echoing misinformation.

[@shaunhutton2201]

Vallejo premium satin varnish applied with the air brush is god tier varnish 👌🏻

[@jaelee1996]

Thank you for covering this topic. I've had some success and some fails. I end up not varnishing at all nowadays.

[@beaubooker433]

Awesome!!

[@chrismurphy3745]

Thank you . Your advice to mixing the mat and gloss with a bit of water or that is amazing idea and I find it’s a great seal that does not to effect the paint job . Great video very noob friendly. Thanks again. Using the citadel stuff .

[@GreenBlueWalkthrough]

Thanks for this been looking to vanish my minis and this video was reeally helpfull!

[@sunttu333]

I've used a generic matt varnish from a general/hardware store and it has always worked flawlessly. It really helps to let it set in warm water for a while before using it. I spray a rather generous coat at close range and while it does look quite soaked or drenched it has always dried smooth and evenly. No frosting or splotches. I've been spraying in my bathroom since the weather is usually too harsh here. The only negative is the amount of cleaning after it even with my "spray box" backdrop and a shower curtain covering a lot of the room

[@jmc7034]

Thank you for such an excellent vid

[@raymondwright5996]

I literally ordered some Varnish 20 minutes before you posted this video. Thanks.

[@OneHotWolfie]

Thanks for this, Duncan. I've been in the hobby a very long time and been totally afraid/unsure of how to use varnishes , this tutorial has really helped me.

[@raxacor]

Grabbing the right can tip👍🏻 I knew I couldn’t be the only one to blast my newly painted minis with white primer instead of varnish…🤦🏻 DOH! Double check your can! Contrast medium with AK ultra mat…Duncan you are a genius! Very nice results, I’ll mix a batch up. 👍🏻

[@starmole5000]

Oh Duncan! that story about the can of primer :D absolutely tragic. I'd have probably shed tears over the lost hours haha.

[@jonathanfryer1319]

Such a great tutorial. I have decided to brush on vanishes (rather than use sprays) and so good to learn about using a varnish over a varnish. Should I stick to matt and gloss or invest in satin, too? Thank you, again. I'm new to the hobby and am grateful!

[@cake-diver8991]

Very helpful thank you

[@monophthalmus3254]

omg, gonna mix my AK ultra matte and contrast medium now. Thank you Duncan!

[@JamesSmith-co1kt]

I have been using minwax polycrylic waterbase from Lowe's. I thin with water and a few drops of flow inmpover through the airbrush. Fantastic results and per ounce/ ml, its cheap and has been working fantastic.

[@MySteamStory]

Remember asking you on Facebook to do this video on almost day 1 of the academy. Thank you very much for doing it!

[@DuncanRhodesDRPA]

No worries!

[@ageofslaanesh9755]

Great video, as always. Do you have any ideas or suggestions on trying to achieve a wet muddy base using gloss?

[@arnaud3299]

Very helpful, thanks for sharing 👍👍

[@DuncanRhodesDRPA]

Thanks for watching...

[@briw4647]

I like to add a drop of gloss varnish onto jewelery, it adds a nice realistic effect

[@changer_of_ways_suspense_smith]

Varnish can be a "Ctrl S" after finishing a delicate bit or a "quicksave" before doing a difficult bit as you can remove a mess up with water without removing the already varnished bit. This is especially good for eyes, hand painted decals, etc. A good example is varnishing one color of a checkerboard before doing the second color.

[@Ulrican414]

My magic recipe for most if not all my miniatures is one drop of satin varnish to three drops of ultra matt.

[@mikee9464]

this was a fantastic video. thank you

[@DuncanRhodesDRPA]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@nicolastousignant9160]

Great video with plenty of usefull tips. Though, I wish you had touched on frosting/clouding effect that sometimes happens and how to avoid it.

[@dawndixon7394]

Many thxs, I’m just a beginner so this was extremely helpful, thankyou❤️

[@DuncanRhodesDRPA]

You’re welcome 😊

[@arti1115]

very informative, thank you sir

[@tamsinp7711]

I generally use artists' matt varnish* brushed on or through the airbrush (mostly the latter these days) then use hobby varnishes brushed on if there are parts I want to be satin or gloss. *Current brand of choice - Golden, thinned down with water (about 2 parts varnish: 1 part water).

[@thehonestaspy102]

I'm honestly amazed to hear you've ever made a mistake Duncan! Thank you so much for this video though, its given me the confidence to start varnishing my models again to protect them Also your facial expressions for the demos were gold 😂

[@DuncanRhodesDRPA]

I make mistakes all the time lol. But once you know how to fix them....

[@LaMOi1]

So I’m new to this hobby. Yesterday evening, I was aghast to find some of the models that I had brushed primed with Vallejo white primer, the paint would just scrape off with my fingernail very easily… This was in contrast to the ones that I had spray, canned primed, with army, paint primer. These models seem to be far more robust, and you have to really work at scraping off the paint. The spray can primer clearly is far more effective. However, there are some models that I’ve painted with the brush and primer that I’m really quite happy with the results. And now I’m slightly panicked, as to how I can in affect seal them and protect them. So now I’m on to carefully pick a varnish that is not too glossy, something more akin to a matte finish, but doesn’t completely kill the metallics...

[@jeffwiese4037]

Nice preview of an upcoming video with that spartan tank.

[@DuncanRhodesDRPA]

Already done and on the website (duncanrhodes.com)😊 but more HH on the way...

[@VicodinElmo]

Thank you for this, Duncan. Varnishes kind of scare me (not literally but you know what I mean) but this has actually made me excited to give them another go!

[@Eric-jt8yx]

Great video

[@Rastlin-jk7rx]

Awesome video….thanks 👍

[@DuncanRhodesDRPA]

No problem 👍

[@nicholassinnett2958]

Gloss varnish is a great way to prep before doing recess shading with washes, especially if you're using oils. Gloss varnish basically levels the surface out by filling in all the surface microtexture (matte varnishes create this kind of microtexture on purpose to diffuse light), so the wash will tend to move more towards the recesses, giving you less surface staining. For the final finish though, matte all the way IMO. I'm not a fan of gloss anything on anything non-metallic. It can make the painted on highlights and shadows harder to see, and it often kills the illusion of scale, especially at smaller scales like 28-32mm.

[@H0urg1ass]

Great video, and one that I can refer to other people since I'm asked the same question of my models consistently. One variation on the theme that works really well for me personally, is that I start off with Vallejo Premium Airbrush Gloss Varnish to give my nearly finished models a nice even, but very tough, undercoat of varnish. Then I apply my oil wash, since it tends to distribute much more evenly over a gloss varnish than pure acrylic paint. After that dries, I do my highlighting and OSL effects if any are needed. Then, I go back in with Vallejo Premium Airbrush Matt Varnish to tone down the shiny effect. After that, I lightly, with very thin coats, hand brush 'Ard Coat over anything that I really want to stand out like Glass, Optics, Sensors, the brim of an Imperial Guard Commissars hat... etc.

[@SobotRex]

How much do you thin the gloss and matte coats?

[@H0urg1ass]

​@@SobotRex I don't thin them at all. The two that I listed are both designed for an airbrush so I put them straight through and have never had a problem. I us an Iwata HP-C Plus airbrush if that helps.

[@jenslorbeer5307]

The way I seal my metal minis to protect them from chipping: I clean, prime and then basecoat and maybe highlight all the prts of the figure except for the metallic parts. Then I gloss varnish with yacht varnish, but i guess any gloss varnish would do. Then I do all the panel lining, washes, blacklining etc. then ultra Matt varnish and eventually i do all the metallic parts and the remaining highlights.

[@RevanR]

7:06 having tray/box with label of primer/varnish is going help categorize can that will be used in the future

[@angelofmalice0]

So happy about this video, I’m always being told to varnish my models (they always have chipped or worn off patches of paint) and I never do because Iv only ever used varnishes a couple of times and they have ruined my models so iv never wanted to use them again.

[@dyslexichitman]

I've been intimidated on using brush on varnish. Thanks for this instructional video! Also I'm greatly looking forward to getting the kickstarter paint set!

[@sethpeterson8261]

By far the best varnish video I've seen and mirrors what I've discovered trying various varnishes myself. Especially the tips of a bit of a satin sheen makes color pop, doesn't ruin metallics or dull down or make a paint job look worse like going full matte can. Also shaking a can for a full 4 minutes. I generally shake 3-4 and makes sure the can is at normal room temp and haven't ever had testors, Ap or GW varnish frost on me yet (knock on wood). I also prefer brush on varnish (specifically Vallejo acrylic satin), but depending on the paints/inks etc... you're using that isn't always an option. Would have been nice if you'd also done tips for fixing tacky varnish and frosting though. Never tried AK Interactive though, I'll have to try your formula.

[@fuzzBuket]

Quite literally was shaking a can of desert spray as you went over the tip of make sure its the right can. Thanks for saving the model 😂

[@johnathanrhoades7751]

I used testors dull coat for a good long while, used gloss brush on for a bit of effects, and now use AK ultra matte through an airbrush for gaming pieces ( just bring up the metalics after)

[@Ulrican414]

I am a huge fan of Ultra Matt varnishes. Most of my minis have a matt finish.

[@vasilmirchev4555]

I always apply by hand. I am ussing Galleria Matte Varnished and I used it on about 3 armies so far.

[@Itsallover57]

Coming in just as im finishing my first csm squad. I want to use them but a month of painting is something I want to protect.

[@Scuzzlebutt142]

For Spray varnishes I went off Munitorum due to how finicky it was for good conditions, though that may have been the old Purity Seal. I despise army painter for frosting on a Minbari Fleet, had to redo the entire lot. Best I've found is spray for painting/canvas made in Australia called Nuart Matt Spray. Had some turn on a drier in a room where I had some models drying (so was super humid), a little bit of ghosting on the base. Second coat, gone, and never had a model chip with it.

[@Breakdown10000X]

Those Ardcoat Romans remind me of Charles Dance at the end of Ali G Indahouse

[@bee-beargaming]

I jus finished painting my first miniature which was a space marine primaris inflitrator. Last step vanishing so this vid really helped me out thanks

[@DuncanRhodesDRPA]

Awesome! Did you enjoy painting your first mini?

[@bee-beargaming]

@@DuncanRhodesDRPA I loved it looking forward to painting more & improving my skils thanks

[@mage189]

I actually use regular floor polish with a brush and then apply a matte spray coat over it once it's dry to remove the glossy shine. Probably overkill but I've never had problems with my paint after that. :D

[@billysymonds279]

I used the GW spray varnish once, never again. Made my ad mech dragoon look really cloudy and ruined hours of work even with precautionary steps like a good 5 minute shake and leaving the can in warm water for 10 minutes. Luckily I left it under a desk lamp for a bit and the heat took the edge off it, then just repainted the main armour panels.

[@wellywanderer]

I had that the first time I used the GW spray varnish too. I sprayed over it with Testors and the milkiness disappeared. I learned that Testors was very tolerant to thick coats, but GW is the opposite. Now I am careful to do very thin coats with my GW varnish and love it.

[@iapetusmccool]

Which varnish was that? The old "Purity Seal" was terrible for that, but I haven't had a problem with the new "Munitorium Varnish".

[@wellywanderer]

@@iapetusmccool it was the Munitorum. I think I had got used to using Testors, which tolerated being put on too thick. Munitorum punishes me when I do that.

[@terminatoruk4921]

Great video as always Duncan - my go-to choices for spray matt varnish are Testers Dullcote and Windsor & Newton professional matt varnish. Surprised it wasn't mentioned but my golden rule / top tip - never spray above 60% humidity - that's where there is an ever increasing chance of frosting occurring from matt sprays. Great tip on shaking the can for 4 minutes (I always do 5 minutes minimum). That actually is a long time - make sure you time yourself and don't be tempted to skip / cut-coners on this vital step. On colder days, you can also improve your results but GENTLY warming the can in a like warm pot of water for 5 minutes or so or use the old trusty stick it under your armpit for a few minutes :-) Also on colder days, try also keeping your models inside until the moment you want to spray, take them outside to spray and bring them back in to dry - the increased surface temperature and drying temperature really helps with the finish too.

[@andrewkennedy9134]

Have you ever had w&n spray dry grainy, or like orange peel...not frosting, but almost like a crackle paint?

[@terminatoruk4921]

@@andrewkennedy9134 no - funny enough I did a batch over the past couple of days. I did a spray gloss coat on one day (about 60% humidity, 15oC), waited 24 hours and did a light spray of w&n professional matt varnish at around 50% humidity / 15oC yesterday and the results were excellent. Make sure your coats are very light and you are spraying across the miniature (never directly at it) at a distance 20-30cm away (i use a marking on my spray stick to measure this). Hope that helps!

[@andrewkennedy9134]

@@terminatoruk4921 Ill give it a go today thanks. Its lovely tuff usually, just lately I dont know what Ive been doing wrong. Maybe too thick a coat or some such?

[@Plaukainis]

Excellent video. I haven't used a lot of varnish on my miniatures. What would look well on Grey Knights power weapons? I'm also not sure what would look well on my Nighhaunt that have many ghostly wisp parts interlocked with cloth. What would you do in the case of Nighhaunt?

[@jeffv522]

Great video, Duncan! What would you recommend as an alternative to Testor's Dullcote? Thanks.

[@adamred5449]

helpful video

[@GoingOffTopical]

if you apply a glaze medium on its own, such as vallejo's, and then an acrylic wash in edges you can simulate a sort of pin wash like oils do after a gloss varnish if you are not confident using oils/ worry they may ruin your paint job.

[@tombrand236]

Vallejo metal varnish is great for metallics too, worth trying

[@kevin_howell]

I varnish with an airbrush… Love it !

[@jdrobertson42]

I wish this video existed in 2005. I’ve learned every lesson here the hard way.

[@matthayward7889]

Dead Matt? Feeling attacked right now.

[@DuncanRhodesDRPA]

🤣🤣🤣 that made us chuckle