How to Varnish with your Airbrush - HC 367

[@sergei5879]

Not many people knows, but that highlight on Vincent's head that you can see in video is actually carefully painted to give the best perception of dimension. ;)

[@zergstirfry]

You king lolololol

[@B3RG3RS0N]

Buahahahaha Love it😂

[@AsteroidTVGaming]

6 years from painting my first saurus I owe the most lessons to your channel, thanks again Vince

[@jeepgun]

Last night was I was trying to find a good KZbin video on varnishing with an airbrush and I was disappointed that our boy Vince wasn’t showing up, first thing this morning and here he is with the exact video I was hoping for.

[@ME-hm7zm]

For gaming minis, my final varnishing is done in two steps - first is gloss (which is left to dry), then matte. This gives me a matte appearance and also will reveal the gloss as the matte wears down, letting me know it needs a touch-up.

[@Baleandor]

I am literally setting up gunpla parts to varnish with my air brush for the first time! You're always on point, Vinny!

[@Jauphrey]

Good luck!! I've been painting gunpla for like...7 years now and I'm still excited to finish my Epyon this month. :D What model are you painting?

[@michigan_joe]

Vince is a national treasure and must be protected at all costs

[@duxbellorum01]

Great video good sir. One thing to remember about all finishes is that they’re gloss until the matting medium, often silicates, are added to diffuse the light. This means satin, matte and ultra matte varnishes need to be shaken well to disperse those particles evenly. Thanks again for the awesome content, Vince!

[@GUNJOEXD]

This dude is a national treasure

[@padrespeaks]

Quite easily the best product Vince recommended that I regularly use is AKs Ultramatte Varnish. It knocks absolutely ALL the shine off models I paint. This has been especially indispensable as I paint a lot more with ink glazes (which I also learned from Vince) and has given me the result I've been most happy with. Keep up the good work, Vince!

[@Cannibalsnax]

Another +1 for AKs Ultramatte. That stuff is. amazing.

[@shadeofheresy]

The 'few drops of thinner first', advice is one of the best ever. Just started airbrushing and this was a game changer. I do the same with paint as well and it seems to really help. Really informative video.

[@darthkek1953]

Harder & Steinbeck are doing lots of airbrush tutorials and that's his (Warwick) thing too. Lots of thinner in, and thinner in first. Keep the nozzle lubed.

[@shadeofheresy]

Yeah seen a few of his videos. Love seeing that from the company that make them. @@darthkek1953

[@Ninjon]

Doctor, it hurts when I do this.

[@Wijkert]

I find that varnishes are very useful to protect zenithal highlight made with white ink (any airbrushed layers tend to be more fragile, but inks even more so). Painting over them with something like a premade wash or a contrast paint will more easily activated the fragile ink layer otherwise.

[@christopherheintz2634]

If you're comfortable or curious to try some different paint chemistries, Try Tamiya white, xf-2. It works really well. I thin it 50/50 with some lacquer thinner and it goes on thin and smooth. If you're already having to apply ink and then varnish, it won't be too much worse to use some Tamiya and clean with a touch of lacquer thinner.

[@hotrodpunk]

You can add some drops of varnish to your ink when airbrushing it to make it stronger and kill any gloss finish.

[@Wijkert]

@@christopherheintz2634 Definitely a fan of trying out new stuff. Have used a white ink for a good while now and with very good results. Will probably stick with what I am happy with. Also have seen the Tamiya white used by the Cult of Paint guys and have to say I was not impressed by the result (more speckly than I would be happy with). Could be the user and not the product of course. Also bought a very big bottle of white ink that price/ml is almost 1/3 of the 30 ml bottles; such good value.

[@chappy4756]

this is a great tip - I do this also with my Valhallans and the zenithaled Liquidtex white ink initial coats - some varnish and no paint/ink peeling when I start shading and washing

[@he-manhunter8933]

@@chappy4756 This is an excellent advice, thanks! About how much varnish compared to the ink do you use?

[@mirage3rd]

Coming back to the hobby after many years, thank you for explaining the ins and outs of varnishes which did not exist a “few” years ago.

[@IanGerritsen]

I used my old cheap starter airbrush to varnish after getting a good one (two... So far). It noticeably got worse for a while, but then stayed pretty stable. It had one last lesson to teach me before it's service ended and it could retire.

[@Wijkert]

I have all my Vallejo varnishes premixed with 25% airbrush thinner to 75% varnish. AK's are thinned enough to not need any thinner. Would do the same if I mixed up any custom mixes like Vince suggested. Makes it easier to add a couple more drops to the cup when I need just a little more.

[@russelmoody4613]

Perfect timing, I've been look looking for resources on airbrush varnishing this week!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad I could help!

[@Diabolous187]

Was about to varnish with airbrush for the first time. Thank's for the tips very much appreciated !

[@Strigon_Actual]

Came here looking for varnish tips as I'm finishing up my Custodes only for Vince to tell me not to bother varnishing them. It's a win!

[@shenkyeirambo5601]

my main issue with matte varnish is that it always turned my blacks grey and the shadows are lighter than i want them to be. i prefer satin as it shows me the colour as i want it, and the minor shine i get doesn't bother me and often looks nice. i've mainly used liquitex varnishes but i've gotten the same thing from various spray cans. it's possible i've applied it wrong. that being said i typically don't varnish my miniatures because i've never felt the need to aside from pewter models, resin models, and display pieces i don't want damaged. i still have 20 year old miniatures from my childhood with their first coats of paint and brush-on primers that haven't worn away or chipped after use last point, while varnish definitely does help, as far as i'm aware the protective difference between the finishes are almost negligible because we're talking about microns of layer thickness or smaller so personally i choose a varnish by intent and finish

[@Vennnaya]

Its worth noting that the mix of matte/Satin/Glossy might be a consideration when consdiering SCALE. For example, a normal 3cm mini from GW you're going to want a matte finish because if they're shiny from where you're standing from (a few hundred feet up in the air, relative to the mini) then their armour must surely be chrome. Meanwhile a large 20cm statuette for example, you might consider doing a more satin or glossy finish if you're doing a shiny surface like armour.

[@CMDR_BananenKeks]

I love to use gloss to let things appear wet... like tongues. Thanks for the chrome idea

[@Jonas_Fox]

Lot of great tips. I was wondering about metallics getting dull from varnish. Thanks Vince.

[@prickswithstix1113]

“Most others are Garbage”! That says it all!!! Great video. I just love these basic videos. You always share something I forgot or a tip/trick that always helps!!

[@wasteyelo1]

Vince, you are like what Barry Harris is to Jazz - you always have the solution.

[@AlexanderGiraldez]

Thanks Vince. For my current project I’m trying the oil wash method and since I’m using some brown speed paints I need to seal the model before the wash step. This is perfect timing for me.

[@shankley_has_a_brush]

I really love the fomoroid crusher model.

[@xommul79]

My new go to video on varnishing

[@puntedagain398]

Great video! I had such anxiety the first time I varnished through my airbrush. I was so worried I was going to have spent hours cleaning up the airbrush. But of course, it turned out fine and super easy and useful. I am a fan of matte varnishing metal for iron jawz weapons, and then going back in and making just the edge of the weapon more gloss with a highlight. I think it kinda gives them an old beaten up and neglected look while the edge still looks sharp.

[@M0U53B41T]

I love when you answer a question I have before even the end of the video! (Mixing two types of varnishes for protection and the effect) I'd like to add those of us who still like to work with metal minis (sorry Vince :P), this is really really really good as well. Multiple coats for protection and for the save point. Same with resin actually, which I have found needs the varnish even before priming, to help seal it, and multitple times throughout painting.

[@paulausten5786]

I was just thinking about this. I knew you could put it through the airbrush, just wasn’t sure about thinner, now I know. Thanks Vince.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad I could help!

[@Wijkert]

Have found that water based varnishes are easier to clean compared to almost any paint the acceptation being paint that is thinned way down. Certainly easier to clean compared to any airbrush primer. So dear comment section reader, don't worry about messing up your airbrush like Vince mentioned in this video.

[@mayduke59]

Great video, I've been struggling with varnishes through rattle cans, I've been thinking about using the air brush

[@Sir_Lucious]

This video came just in time. I just ordered some AK Interactive Ultra Matte.

[@leonardodosvinci4130]

Varnish as a savepoint, genius, thanks Vince. I think I need to be on your Patreon, ill get on that.

[@the_elder_medium]

Thanks for going over the clean up for after using varnish. That's what has been stopping me from using it through mine.

[@gavin_is_gavin6292]

took a long break, so haven't watched your videos in a while, and man the quality has improved dramatically! Great job man

[@VinceVenturella]

Welcome back!

[@mathiaskaati9505]

Thanks Vince! Just the info i was looking for, explained perfectly.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@adammotter]

Tried to use my airbrush for the first time to do this last weekend. Got the Army Painter Air version, with the understanding it's ready to use out of the bottle. Had the few drops of thinner first, and added the varnish, but immediately had flow/clog issues and even trying to add a little more thinner and mixing didn't help. My cheap starter brush (broke it trying to clean and need to replace it) came with a 0.3mm tip. Do I need to go up to a 0.5? Do I need to thin the varnish more? I messaged AP and they are sending me a new bottle. Just looking to avoid this next attempt and open to ideas.

[@VinceVenturella]

That nozzle should be fine, I would think it might have just been a bad bottle, the other option is the nozzle was already blocked or obstructed in some way and this was exascerbating the issue.

[@1989eol]

I have never experienced any problem with my rattle can varnish from Vallejo. I always use Satin Varnish on my minis. My painting game isn't where my control over finish beats the even look of that satin varnish. I tend to take the varnished look into account, when I paint fast. Still. Just today I varnished during a heavy rain shower. I was under a roof, but 0 problems. I varnished at 35°C and also at -5°C. Any humidity. No problems.

[@willr700]

Literally the best varnishing tutorial on youtube. Looking forward to your other tutorials.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thanks! there are many in the playlist and always many more to come. :)

[@Hushai1979]

This was so helpful, Vince… Varnishing has always been a hardship with me. you make my artwork go to a greater level… thank you Your friend from Aiken South Carolina.👍🇺🇸

[@Abominus69]

Hi, I have AK Ultra Matt Varnish and I’m surprised that everyone always seems to recommend it. I find it significantly dulls colours and the model loses lots of pop. As a result, other people who don’t paint minis have also questioned what paint brand I use as ‘they are not very vibrant.’ I’ve tried mixing it with satin varnish, but even at 50:50 the model still comes out so dull. I guess I have to keep experimenting with ratios...

[@VinceVenturella]

Well, the key with the gloss varnish is it's going to make a fairly flat even base coat look better, because the color will read more true and it will create depth (highlights and shadows as it tightens the reflections to your eye). However, if you have placed highlights, if your paint is telling a light story, then you want it to be as matte as possible, because you are already telling the story of the light.

[@LegionaireSiggi]

Once again, I can trust the Technomancer to have a video on what I'm curious about, thanks Vince!

[@Wijkert]

One maybe useful addition to this video is a note on airbrushed versus brushed on varnish. The airbrushed option creates very even layers, wile brushing it on can pool in de recesses creating artifacts like the frosting or whitening like you mentioned.

[@chrisbarrett1006]

Nice job on the explanations of using the different cleat coats.

[@boelens15080]

Awesome video!!! Have watched multiple videos on airbrush and varnishing and yours is by far the best!! Thank you

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@markhickson1066]

I've always been worried about using a final coat of varnish. Now I'll give it a try on a few test pieces, thanks.

[@MentoliptusBanko]

Thanks for the advise Vince! Especially for the thinner and matt-satin mix

[@ssreeser95]

As a primarily tabletop painter, I usually just gloss varnish my Necrons and satin varnish all my other models, rarely using matte except on natural terrain. Sometimes I'll brush on gloss on metallics to shine it up. You didn't get into brands in this video but I have had some good results using Liquitex's acrylic varnishes. I'm starting to experiment with painting display so I may try and play around with a better varnish mix.

[@MorrowindES17]

Thank you for explaining this just got into painting miniatures was on sure on washes and varnishes.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Buggbutler]

Literally the exact video I was going to look up today

[@clinodev]

Great topic! I looked this up a while back and there wasn't a lot directly about it!

[@isisnmagic1812]

I getting ready to buy my first airbrush kit so all 5his is good to know before I take that leap, great video as always Vince.

[@NerdLIfe-Skirmish71]

I used the Testors Dullcote for years and it can get a bit expensive. I switched to the AK Ultra Matte through the airbrush and that stuff works great. A few years back I could not find it anywhere so I gambled on the the Liquitex Matte Varnish. It is actually really good sprayed through the airbrush, comparable with the Dullcotte. When put on with a brush not so good, a bit of a gloss left behind.

[@VinceVenturella]

Good to know!

[@madMARTYNmarsh1981]

Nice one, cheers, Vince. I ruined a model trying to varnish it with my airbrush so I haven't done it since but I'll give it a try again while applying your advice.

[@tomekhekin914]

Please update your video about different paints. It is 4 years old and a lot have changed since but it it's still my go to video for miniature paints.

[@VinceVenturella]

There will be a new one this year. :)

[@BF-rn3oz]

Such a good explanation. Thank you VV

[@JackDespero]

Would it be a good idea to use gloss varnish on non metalic surfaces, such as a black armor, so taht it looks more metalic?

[@VinceVenturella]

Most of the time no, the exception is something like Obsidian, it will really help sell that material.

[@Justin_black_leviathan]

I love the AK ultra matte

[@Rich-in6ds]

This was super helpful, thank you! I do have a question: you said to not varnish after metallics and just do the matte bits first. What if you’re painting Necrons, priming metallic but then brush painting in some matte paints for armour plates etc? Would you just brush on some varnish then? And if so, how much would you thin it?

[@VinceVenturella]

I just wouldn’t varnish them. :)

[@theezekarion164]

DON'T SCRATCH UR MINATURES! "Vince-Y Vee" Has Spoken. Thank U Vince For The Video Truly Appreciated

[@chaoticpainting1507]

I'm glad you explained this process... it's nice getting tidbits like this from the pro's who have years of experience doing this stuff. I actually varnished a mini i am working on simply because I got a new bottle and wanted to try out the varnish lol. When it dried it was glossy and I was like wtf, maybe the bottle was mislabeled? Come to find out, I didn't shake it long enough 🤦🏼‍♂so I shook the shit outta it and varnished it again, got a nice matte finish, which was nice. I always make mistakes, so it was nice having that save point, as you put it, to have the ability to flood it and wipe it with your brush to clean stuff up. You should definitly make a video about metallic paints, and which one's are the best. I've noticed I don't like GW, they're garbage but Vallejo and Pro Acryl work ok for me. Now I feel like im rambling, thanks for sharing man! I always like watching your stuff. 🤘🏼🤘🏼

[@VinceVenturella]

Thanks! This is the most recent video i've done on that subject - kzbin.info/www/bejne/ep6pmaCinrV4gpo

[@LorrusGrymn]

I do apply varnish on my metallic because I have to. I use oil washes on my metallics, which look bad if I want to achieve a shiny effect. I use Alclad Aqua Gloss for that purpose. Alclad II are paints that I prefer if I'm airbrushing metallics and want to achieve a shiny metal effect. As for the other non-metallic things. I relly like Vallejo Prreally Satin Varnish. This satin varnish is much less glossy than the other satin varnishes I used.

[@officialraylong]

Thanks, Vince! This was the content I needed today when working on Rotigus. Thanks for the tips on ratios. For me, I like 3:1 matt:gloss with some airbrush thinner and a bit of flow improver.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@MariusKramer]

Thank you for that video! I‘ve got the Matt varnish from ak and was not so happy with that, so I bought the ultra Matt … that‘s cool, but sometimes to Matt 😅 Now I can use both…. I was up to threw the Matt away

[@docbun]

Thank you, Vince. As far as durability goes, I have to ask: how do you store & transport your minis? I remember your showing how to create a "metal shelf" with magnetized minis stuck to it - is that your main answer? For board games, in general storage is proposed either in the plastic inserts that are thermo-formed to stick to the mini's shape (that one problably means no problem?) or in bags or small boxes inside the game box, game box that then gets into trunks, carried in public transportation, etc, till it reaches a table to play, then the same on the way back. I am still learning what that kind of "treatment" of the minis requires as far as durability of varnish goes. I'd prefer not to have to store each and every board game miniature I own (and have painted - not, definitely not all of them ;) on a custom-made metal shelf with magnets in the minis. But I'm not sure what I have to do to keep them relatively safe. What are your thoughts on this? (Notes: I am not willingly scratching my minis, or throwing them off to the ground or anything that crazy. Well, most of them, anyway. 😀 )

[@VinceVenturella]

I transport them on metal racks with magnets. The board game thing is a challenge, but I would probably do the same, just in a small box or something.

[@Carbide-1]

Very helpful for a newb like me, cheers fella!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad to help

[@WattaYog]

My question is: why mix satin with matte and do 2 coats instead of doing 1 satin or gloss coat for protection followed by 1 matte coat of choice for preferred finish? Thanks for a wonderful video! This is perfect for me as I have been looking at starting Airbrushing mostly to help with priming and varnishing.

[@VinceVenturella]

With the mixture, I can make sure everything is more evenly applied and see it all at once over the matte surface, without any shine obscuring the evenness of the application.

[@Matt-km1ek]

Absolutely love every time I see you post a new hobby cheating video. You’re the best

[@jakessofa8187]

hit like at the start, pro tip Might have to try the old mix with satin, I have the standard Matte from AK, but I assume it will still be sweet I actually don't mind adding a little varnish over the metallics, just to knock the shine back a touch, but only on the first base layer. Found it made the following highlights stand out better (I can see Vince's Pai Mei look of disgust)

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, even their matte isn't super matte, but it's okay. :)

[@thomasholliday2708]

I've been wishing for this video since the recent primer video. Hopefully I'll bite the bullet soon and just start varnishing stuff.

[@Ulrican414]

I have been varnishing with my airbrush ever since I've gotten it two years ago and never blocked anything. Just do as Vince says and clean it after using. Don't let anything dry in there.

[@benstephenson8988]

Love your videos, I have learned so much from them. keep us the greatness my man

[@VinceVenturella]

You got it!

[@TheIcemanModdeler]

For Gloss Varnish do u apply it in thin coats, or do a thin coat first then a wet coat after 1-2 layers? Think i need to go easier on the trigger maybe half way, i spray in passes, sometimes i get that orange peel with Mecha Gloss, using a 0.5 Iwata Revolution at 20 PSI. It gets confusing sometimes having to remember each paint type how it should be applied with an airbrush, acrylics like thin layers, lacquers will work as a dust coat first then a heavy coat like Alclad Gloss Black Base to get a glossy reflection, alcohol metallics i tend to spray in medium 1-2 coats for full coverage, Alclad metallics like super fine mist coats in many layers. I think gloss varnish needs a final wet coat to get a glossy result if im not mistaking.

[@Eron2828]

I use Vallejo liquid gold (alcohol based). I find it really easy to rub off during normal use (transporting/playing). Certainly more fragile than acrylic metals.

[@VinceVenturella]

The alcohol metals may be, I've never run into any issues with them, but its always hard to say.

[@TheJessejudd]

What might be one of the best flat black paints for achieving sooty blast marks on my t'au Stormsurge, I'll be attempting to airbrush these marks as well, thanks!!

[@VinceVenturella]

Black pigment is usually your best bet for the first purpose. For airbrushing paint, any sort of black paint can work, I like contrast black through the airbrush actually.

[@TheJessejudd]

@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince!

[@andersmichelsen5740]

Excellent and useful tutorial

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad you liked it :)

[@Baatosanabe]

I always learn so much from you! Thank you so much.

[@gallusdomesticuskfptechpriest]

A really thin oil wash (with lots of odourless mineral spirits) gives a great finish imo. That's been my last step for most of my minis, and it's never done me wrong. Well, except for the time I added way too much linseed oil, leaving my chaos dark apostle VERY shiny. Oops

[@rtl6832]

Question about not varnishing metallics: if you're painting something that is 80% metallic paint, stormcast miniatures for example, do you still paint all the non metallic stuff first, varnish the non metallics with a brush, or do you just avoid varnishing altogether?

[@VinceVenturella]

Just avoid varnishing all together

[@codemaster6521]

Matt - skin Satin - armor/fabric Gloss - metal

[@skycat51]

Thanks for all your very helpful videos! Does the varnish mix you create offer the same utility as a gloss varnish for decals and oil wash applications?

[@VinceVenturella]

As your final varnish to even it all out, yes. But not as a replacement for gloss, there I just use Gloss, then I use my mix over the top.

[@skycat51]

@@VinceVenturella thank you!

[@koz1138]

Vince, what sort of process would you recommend if I want to do a recess oil wash but then use metallic paint on other areas after? Can I gloss varnish, apply wash, and then matte varnish to get a toothy surface?

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, exactly that workflow.

[@OldManb1981]

Hi Vince when you put thiner in your airbrush cup first and then add the satin and ultra matte mix do you take a small brush and mix it all up in the cup before your spray?

[@VinceVenturella]

Just backflow.

[@Jauphrey]

Was just wondering about a good matte varnish (running low on my last). Man Vince, it's like you're in our minds or something. Great video as always, and I learned why some of my glossed areas look like crap in the process! Haha.

[@JoseSilva-oo8ds]

Thanks Vince,

[@sean3870]

Very, very helpful. Thank you!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@theenigmaticgamer]

Thanks for a very helpful and informative video. I have always had reservations on using my airbrush to varnish, but now I am much clearer on how to do it.

[@thesidehustlehero]

What if you wanted to use an oil wash over the metallics? Would you do a workflow of paint, varnish, metal paints, varnish, oil, varnish?

[@VinceVenturella]

I never varnish metals, so I would just apply them, let them dry, then oil wash and go. The oil won't directly interact with the acryllic layer.

[@TheRealDruss]

Well, I still love my proxy 'nids with the final gloss varnish for that lovely chitin sheen, even if Vince thinks they are garbage XD

[@darthkek1953]

It's only garbage if you're trying to do something different as a look. If you want your chitin shiny, go for it. Same applies to blood (especially puddles of it), lots of various types of Nurgle gloop, water sections on the base, etc., or any bare-chested fighter can glisten because of sweat.

[@mpywak3685]

Thanks for the very informative video! Do you use acrylic or polyurethane varnish, and why? Also, do you stil use that ultra matte - satin mix, and if yes, which brands make it up?

[@VinceVenturella]

My general go varnish is acryllic, but they often have a polyeurathane mix. I still use the same general mix indeed.

[@terrydactyl2077]

Ok. So I’ve just airbrushed a vehicle in Vallejo metal colour. Coz it looks so much nicer than when I hand brush it on. Only now I need to varnish before I oil wash and try some things out. First time varnishing too. Should I varnish with gloss? Will that keep the metal looking ok? Or satin? Also one thing. I find metal paints leave flakes all over my figures in the parts I painted with acrylic. So wouldn’t varnishing metal be good to stop that?

[@benweinberg3819]

Another great comprehensive topic! I haven't seen it the comments here, but I've been hearing conflicting messages from my painting friends on this lately--when airbrushing varnish over inks, namely artist acrylic ones like a white zenithal, do you find it's better to do it soon after the airbrushing or wait for the layers to cure/dry over many days? Context is, I've always had trouble with inks reactivating even after a couple days of waiting and some light heat treatment to help cure. Not spraying too thick or too far away, and sometimes even with a varnish layer after all that, so wondering if a sooner varnish would help it "bond" with the inks?

[@VinceVenturella]

I wouldn't try to work wet on wet like that, if you're going that direction you would just mix in the varnish directly, otherwise, let it cure for at least a 1/2 hour to an hour.

[@davedogge2280]

i varnish using airbrush but I am paranoid about not cleaning up immediately after using because once I left an airbrush uncleaned out for days after spray varnishing and it was a tough clean up scraping away at the hardened varnish on the insides of the airbrush (cup and inner main tube etc even). I am one of those that uses cheap airbrushes to varnish with and clean immediately afterwaards - that means throwing the airbrush into a bucket of lean water and backfilling with the water and spraying it out inside the under the bucket water and out. I use Vallejo brush cleaner and take the needle out and clean it also after such a session.

[@iTxip]

Regarding the non-varnishing of metallics, what if metallic is the first colors you paint? Like with thousand sons, a very usual way of painting them is to airbrush/spray the gold before painting the blue panels. What would you do on that case? Just use matt with a brush on the non metallics? Or airbrush satin/matt all over?

[@VinceVenturella]

I likely just wouldn’t varnish them. But if I wanted to, yes, I would brush on some ultra matte/satin to the matte paint areas.

[@iTxip]

@@VinceVenturella thanks for answering!!! you answer a lot of questions in the comments even if the video has been up for a long time. I think I speak in the name of all the noobs like me in the comments when I say you are awesome!!!

[@budakota]

Great Informative video!!...jus curious where did you get ALL your paint holders (in the background) also where did you get your Working Area Table Light?..ty & Have a great safe day!

[@VinceVenturella]

I have a new light now, I got it from Game Envy, and I am going to be doing a video on it soon. The paint holders are just from GW. :)

[@borischivapallottole]

Super useful tutorial, thanks man! I have one question: what pressure do you set your compressor on when applying varnish? For example I normally airbrush at 25psi, but I was wondering if it would be better to increase it up a little bit for spraying varnish

[@VinceVenturella]

Same as always, 18-20 PSI, no need to move it really.

[@nameisbad]

I've got some GSW varnishes coming that I plan to use for my varnishing (my AK ultra matt has some little bits in it now and then and I don't want it to block anything). So should be interesting to see how they performing. I now wish I had gotten some satin, I only grabbed gloss and matt. Oh! Talking of airbrushing, why on earth did my vallejo metal color gold which airbrushed beautifully end up turning silver overnight???? hahaha. I mean it looks good it's just, not gold so I'm really confused. As ever, love your videos vince, you are a gem in & to the community.

[@VinceVenturella]

I have no idea on the gold, it might not have been shaken enough, very strange.

[@Smilomaniac]

I just have the gloss and matt vallejo versions. I've tried various mixes of the matt one, with medium and/or water, but it always comes out a little too shiny, whether it's with the airbrush or applied with a normal brush. Something I recently found out about, is that PVA glue thinned with water applied with a brush will matt down surfaces, although I'm not sure how reliable or good this is, as I've only used it a little to fix some glossy wash. Maybe I just need to get the ultra matt and hope that actually works. Nearly all of my several hundred models are entirely unvarnished, only my 'mice & mystics' board pieces are.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, the ultra matte is actually matte, unlike the matte varnish which is sadly more satin.

[@ramza813]

was never sure what to dilute with. will try 80/20

[@eitremn]

Hey Vince, thank you for all your videos, they're awesome! In regards to varnishing metallic paint though what do you recommend if you've already applied metallic, but still need to varnish?

[@VinceVenturella]

Don't. That is really the short answer, in general, unless it's a metal figure, it doesn't really need to be varnished. If you have to kill a shine, then brush apply some ultra matte.