Pattern Cutting - Flat Pattern Drafting, the Bodice Block part 4

[@angelakanetv]

Thank you so much 'liking' videos in this series. Lots of likes already and I've only just loaded the final episode. Likes are so welcome for all creatives on KZbin! Likes help us get noticed.

[@neetitripathi1261]

ur awesome!

[@kenangunay116]

Hi! Your tutorials are great. Thank you. But i encounter problem in drafting the Front Bust width. It seems there is something wrong in the formula 0:24. I ended up having bigger front bust measurement and inverted slant side seams. Other who comments have same problems too. My body size is 34 petite. Thanks again.

[@dimejiagbaje4749]

Please can you teach how to draft a bra cup corset? Thank you

[@osemudiamendaniels1111]

wow, the accuracy of this draft method is awesome. Thanks so much. Drafting for irregular body shapes is now made easier for me .

[@vasanthragavrakeshragav1178]

Very clear explanation and easy to follow the techniques . Excellent skills you instructed here. Keep it up.

[@guenetgirma8941]

Glad to come across this very useful channel. Thank you so much for sharing us your knowledge and experience.

[@vasanthkandasamy928]

Mam, your video's are easy to follow by everyone. So excellent to learn!

[@kalpanapandey9389]

Thanks mam, u tought with good technology and clearly... thank u so much for sharing your knowledge at public platform

[@angelakanetv]

Thank you so much for your generous comment.

[@yannthannchef6605]

I am your student from today onwards. Thank you very much. Truly appreciated. #Myanmar

[@angelakanetv]

Thank you. I'm very glad you are find my videos useful. Nice to have your support.

[@josephgambrell1715]

hi Angela Kane i was wondering if you had a video on adding ease to a shirt pattern or was wonder how much at least you would add to the individual pattern pieces (cause i think it might be 3 cm to the back 1 cm to the front ) thanks.

[@njokimuthoni-f3s]

Thank you.

[@angelakanetv]

You're welcome!

[@afirahshawana8338]

Your tutorial was really helpful and productive for me. There were many fundamental things I learnt from your video. Is it possible if you could tell me if there are any other tutorials based on bodice pattern drafting??? Apart from sleeve pattern and plate manipulation, are there any other 'pattern' tutorials available by you?? thanks for listening.

[@frnds4zest123]

Hii thank you so much for your video,just wanted to ask one question,if m doing it for the bust 34 ,what will be the mesurments of bust for front block... please help

[@akinwandenifemi3283]

Hello Angela. Please can you make videos on necklines. I'm having difficulty in that aspect. Thanks.

[@d_mariefashions]

Thanks ma'am for your video. I have learnt a lot from your video. Please can you explain how to get waist dart.

[@trishelliott2146]

awesome tutorial.

[@angelakanetv]

Thank you Trish. That's very generous.

[@DonakondaCreation]

wow excellent great super explain mem thank you

[@angelakanetv]

Thank you so much Nagesh. That's really nice of you.

[@star12341998]

Hello! I want to do a sweetheart bodice, but I'm not really sure where to do the darts? This pattern only has one dart, but I'm wondering how the one from from around X to the waist line would be? As in, how do we know how many inches the width of the dart at the waist line will be? Like assuming the dart forms one whole triangle (it's like two triangles in one right??), how wide is its whole base at the waist line?

[@okukweobuseh1877]

Hiii, great tutorial thank you. But I have a question, i noticed that same back side seam has a deeper curve than the front side seam, thereby making the back side seam longer. How would you match them up properly when sewing since they are of different lengths? Thank you.

[@angelakanetv]

Hello, You will find the difference in length quite slight. Match up at waist and hip level and distribute any ease evenly. This is a close fitting block. When you work on your final design you will add design ease and decide on the shape and curve of the side seam and adjust any ease according to your design. Thank you very much for your feedback.

[@okukweobuseh1877]

@@angelakanetv Alright I get it now, thank you very very much for your reply.

[@connectwithgodtv]

Thanks ma. Please how can one become a member. I really need to follow this pattern to the end. I mean the waist shaping and darts. I can't stop thanking. Am so grateful.

[@kristitraynor8409]

It was going so well until I folded my bust dart! My 42” bust adds 4.5”dart and this makes the np overlap the sp! I know how to do a full bust adjust once I have a pattern block but I’m not sure how to first draft the block? Should I just use a 36” bust and then FBA up to 42”? What about making a block with two darts? What other options exist?

[@kimokim6549]

May be check diane deziel videos on youtube if you havent already

[@zeliatusman6370]

Hi Angela! thanks a lot for the video. I drafted this pattern with my own measurement but in the end my arm hole came out 5 3/4" larger than the top arm measurement. what could be the problem....

[@muhammedabuzaid3105]

hello .. thank u so much :) i did follow ur clips nd i finished my pattern and i just wanna ask you did u left an extra space for the sewing?? or should i count it on the fabric?? p.s am Egyptian and am not pretty good with english language :D that's why i didn't catch all ur instructions ,forgive me and plz try to answer me as fast as u can

[@morougecanada]

I did draft the pattern using my own measurements. there is a problem with the side seams, the back side seam is more like an A shape, while the front side seam was straight. what should i do to match the side seams? should i match the back side seam to the front seam, and then apply the Slash and spread method on the back to get the right hip width? thank you

[@cindydowns371]

My bust is 38" which gave me an underarm point at 12" from center point on the front bodice (half bust +2 = 21) (21 - (half of (back width of 14) +2) = 12 . My back bodice armhole measures about 8" which perfectly matches the back sleeve pattern. However the front bodice armhole is almost 11". This gives a total of 19". This is quite a bit longer than the upper arm measurement (in my case 10 1/2") plus 4.5 or 5 inches. This makes my armhole 3 inches to big for my sleeve. Drafted from your sleeve pattern. What should I do?

[@watertreatmenttechnologych8482]

Awesome!

[@angelakanetv]

Thank you. :)

[@umbillal5284]

it is very helpful video

[@premawilson8353]

Hi Angela - trying to figure out whats the variable size difference for bust size 38? Sorry to bother you as i'm unable to find from your PDF. From this Part 4 video at timing: 0.47. I was guessing it 2 1/2 inches?

[@angelakanetv]

+Prema Wilson Hi Prema, Did you catch the annotation about variables being freely available on my site? angelakane.com/sewing_patterns/pattern-cutting/. In Part 2 at 1:26 I do say, add 2" to half bust for all sizes. I've corrected this with an annotation too. So for a 38" bust add 2¼". 40/42 2½", for a 44 bust, go to 2¾". So, here in Part 4, to calculate the Front Bust width for a 38" bust, use 2¼" where I say 2". I hope that helps. Thank you for pointing this out.

[@premawilson8353]

+ANGELA KANE Sewing TV Thank you so much Angela, your tutorial was simply amazing. I was so happy and impressed over my own drawing. I'm unable to find the fitted bodice video drawing, believe it's only for registered members access? Your members access designs, i believe you have predrawned PDF downloads on standard sizes. I want to know do you have the same pattern drafting tutorials as the one you unloaded in youtube for all those designs? Because i would like to draw my own sizes.

[@tkarlmann]

This is fascinating! Do you have a video series like this for men for shirts & trousers?

[@angelakanetv]

I am asked this so often. I will eventually get around to doing it.

[@premawilson8353]

Thank you so much Angela, your tutorial was simply amazing. I was so happy and impressed over my own drawing. I'm unable to find the fitted bodice video drawing, believe it's only for registered members access? Your members access designs, i believe you have predrawned PDF downloads on standard sizes. I want to know do you have the same pattern drafting tutorials as the one you unloaded in youtube for all those designs? Because i would like to draw my own sizes. Thinking of registering as a member.

[@angelakanetv]

+Prema Wilson Hello Prema, All my video tutorials are now free, so the videos on my site are the KZbin videos. I have yet to do a video on the fitted bodice but I will soon. I do have the instructions in my Pattern Cutting eBook series which you can buy separately or of course it is included in membership. Yes, I do have a basic draft in all sizes available to members. Thank you so much for commenting.

[@ladymarshalllm]

great video. where can I purchase that triangle ruler thing and what is the proper name for it. thankyou again for sharing your craft

[@angelakanetv]

+Lady Marshall It's called a Graders Set Square. I buy a lot of my equipment here - macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/82620/pattern-making-equipment/mw/graders-set-square - but you will find other places on google. Thanks for your comment. I'm glad you like my videos.

[@level2456]

Hello, when I apply this method for big bust and smaller shoulder, it always comes out big on the bustline, please help

[@julietssemugabi9190]

Hi Angela. Thanks for the excellent demonstration. Can you please explain more how you get the Half Chest Width on the Chest Line. I have watched that clip and still do not get it. I see you measure from the CF Line to the Inner Dart Line and then you Add more inches to make it 61/2". Juliet

[@kimokim6549]

Me too, I'm so lost after this haha

[@jumida_richard]

Thanks

[@phongle1772]

I would like to know how you figured out the extra slack that was added. Why add half or two inches? Is that what was taught? Or does it even matter how much you add?

[@angelakanetv]

Yes, you are right, 2" is pretty much a standard thing for a basic bodice. You loose some of that in the dart. You need ample ease across the bust for movement. Especially if you add sleeves, a skin tight fit would not work. If you are making a sleeveless dress that is very body hugging you could get away with less. There again if you want a very easy fit you would add more.

[@halimah3605]

Hello, I love your Pattern Series! It really has been helping me as a beginner so thank you very much :) But unfortunately, I am really struggling with this part, just as I thought I was doing well and was nearly done. I don't understand how to get the front bust width, as when I do it, I end up overlapping into the back bodice. Also, the next part, I can't seem to get my head around the maths on how to get the chest point measurement. Please can you help me, I really want to be able to make my own bodice :(

[@angelakanetv]

Halimah Hello Halimah, Yes, this was quite complicated to explain and demonstrate. Firstly, if your Front Bodice is overlapping your Back Bodice and you think your construction is correct, remember what I say at the outset, the centre back and centre front lines, CF and CB, can be drawn as far apart as you like initially, to give you more room. The back and front bodice drafts are quite separate but on the same level horizontally for convenience. The Chest Point - this isn’t so difficult. You measured your Chest Width, see Part 1. So Chest Point is marked using half that measurement from CF. You have to exclude the width of the dart because it will disappear when the dart is sewn. So, as the dart is not stitched at this time, you have to add that little bit on for the actual measurement from Centre Front to the Chest Point on the draft. When the dart is finally stitched, Chest Point will indeed be half chest width away from CF and Chest Point to Chest Point across your whole bodice front will be equal to your Chest Width measurement. Hope that makes more sense. Good luck with the rest of your drafting.

[@level2456]

Hello, y are the front and back shoulder slopes different? I mean after closing shoulder dart

[@ternpoint]

thanks for your reply what would your progression to a fitted evening/bridal be? i have studied the natalie bray method which yours is quite similar to but its a really weird fit. wondered if you had

[@ternpoint]

oops didnt finish it- wondered if you had any advice

[@morougecanada]

mam, would you please explain how to add ease? thank you

[@mercywelime2790]

For the front bust width it seems u approximated often, have much not been added to it. Asking for clarity.thanks

[@janeteholmes]

You keep saying the Pattern Cutting variables are available on your website but I can't find them and there is no direct link provided. I have attempted twice to make a pattern using this video, but I haven't been successful. I suspect these instructions are only suitable for people size 10 and under.

[@angelakanetv]

See the link top right on the video. Hover and you will see a direct link to Variables. See the description below my video. You may have to click on 'show more', you will also see the direct link angelakane.com/sewing_patterns/pattern-cutting/ Pattern Drafting is for a full range of shapes and sizes.

[@MsAlicia03]

Hi, ur tutorial is so gd. Can u put a tutorial drafting pants pls?

[@angelakanetv]

MsAlicia03 It's on the To Do list. Thanks for your nice comment!

[@evawsee8327]

i am so confused by now! can you tell me the measuring difference between bust width and chest width? thanks so much!

[@angelakanetv]

Hello evafeeva, the Bust measurement is taken around the fullest part of the bust, around back and front. The chest measurement is take higher and is the distance tween where the armhole seams should naturally occur. Recap Part 1 at about 2:00 - kzbin.info/www/bejne/e5WthIiabJZ2mqs - This calculation of Bust width is difficult until you do it a few times and then you will understand. Front and Back Bust Width are the two halves of the bust measurement including ease. The ease has been added to the Back Bodice so you use this information to decide what is left over for the Front Bodice. I hope that helps. Thank you very much for leaving a question.

[@evawsee8327]

thank you so much! you have saved my very own new bodice pattern!

[@elumalaia5263]

ANGELA KANE Sewing TV

[@mitylenemargarethsam1992]

fantastic

[@angelakanetv]

Thank you so much. Great to have so much encouragement!

[@zimishnova1246]

This is amazing mam Can you help me with the sleeve pattern making Vinaka.

[@angelakanetv]

Hello Akuila, Check out these videos. They may help Pattern Cutting - New! The Sleeve Block - kzbin.info/www/bejne/mISznKuchr96q6s Pattern Cutting - Flat Pattern Drafting, Drafting the Sleeve Block - kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYPGn2upfLaSbKs Sewing Patterns - Flat Pattern Drafting - Matching the Sleeve to Bodicekzbin.info/www/bejne/mqqwo6B_qqppmK8 Pattern Cutting - New! Matching the Sleeve Block- kzbin.info/www/bejne/gorOkp5_qJqFiMk Thanks for your comment!

[@withlovestephaniedenise7024]

Can you explain why this is drafted in a block vs. Two separate pieces?

[@angelakanetv]

Hi Stephanie, Block refers to each pattern piece. I don't know where the term comes from. These standard patterns are commonly called blocks but in the US they are more commonly called slopers. The Bodice Block comprises of a Front Bodice Block and Back Bodice Block and Sleeve Block. The Front and Back are drafted together as they use common reference points and measurements.

[@biplobbarman6914]

nice

[@UntoHimLeather]

Dear Angela Kane, your teaching misses almost noting. I really enjoyed and carefully learnt wonderfully. But I have few questions: what are we going to do with the darts for sisters who have very little bust, (or sorry to say that), with no breasts. 2nd question: how can I download your pdf Guid whithout having fulfilled your online requirements.

[@shasim41]

On the downloaded bodice pattern waist darts are included. How do I add waist dart to my pattern?

[@angelakanetv]

Hello, The next stage, Drafting the Fitted Block which gives you a block to the waist with the waist darts is currently an eBook for my members of my site, or you can buy all my eBooks for Pattern Cutting plus the in-depth videos to download and keep here for £12 - angelakane.com/amember/cart/index/product/id/152/c/ I will be adding the Fitted Bodice Block video here for free soon.

[@reshmabaptiste3866]

Do you have any video how to cut simple dress pattern thanks

[@angelakanetv]

That is something I would like to do as a follow up to drafting blocks.

[@StephSancia]

This is top notch as usual Angela so much gratitude. I usually make errors on the armhole and end up with it just too large. I notice that at 2:29 your front line arm curve top shoulder down to bottom arm went INSIDE the pattern ie across the pattern block to the right so maybe that's where I'm going wrong as I always keep that arm curve to the left of the pattern block and it invariably ends up too puckery at shoulder chest. I didn't know you could go inside the block lines ? I'd be ever so grateful if you could advise. Have a beautiful rest of week.

[@angelakanetv]

Hello Steph, I'm not quite sure what you mean. I looked at 2:29 and I'm drawing in the front armhole curve. Just joining up the drafted points. The lines are just guides drafted to find the points. Let me know if I have misunderstood you. Thanks though for your positive feedback on my videos.

[@emperorny]

Why you make the lines straight in the hip side when the hip has curves?

[@angelakanetv]

Yes, good point. This is a block draft and you would curve the line when you get to the final pattern. I should make that clear.

[@thenmozhimohanavel3559]

Is it with seam allowance ?

[@angelakanetv]

No seam allowance. When you are drafting patterns it is best to draft net patterns and add seam allowance afterwards.

[@ternpoint]

I am a bit confused about the ease. Says there is no ease but seems to have 4" total at the bust?

[@angelakanetv]

ternpoint Yes, I should say minimum ease as opposed to no ease. This is wearing ease which you need for movement. Bust level is where you need most ease for movement of the arm, chest, back flexing etc. 4" that's 2" on the half draft. Some of it is lost in the shoulder to bust dart. For a sleeveless dress you can reduce the minimum ease and for a strapless dress even more can be lost. So that's wearing ease as opposed to style or design ease which can be anything - loose jackets and coats for example that go over multiple layers of clothing. Thanks for your feedback.

[@lilybadmus4082]

Was wearing ease also added to the waist and hips?? Thanks so much for these videos, they are amazing!!

[@salauddinkhan6640]

nice nice

[@kimokim6549]

I understood till part 3, and then comes part 4 and I'm lost 😂

[@naeemraaj]

how can i get the same for men's shirt?

[@angelakanetv]

I would like to do this for men's patterns. In the future may be.

[@naeemraaj]

Please do this ASAP as i need it most. thanks.

[@amlhana4892]

❤😊❤

[@connectwithgodtv]

Does it have back shoulder dart. Is the half an inch added at the shoulder slope for dart or ease. Thanks ma.

[@syedshareen9599]

What's mean of PHD? ?

[@angelakanetv]

Hi syed, Can you give me a time frame where I refer to 'PHD'. I'm not sure myself!

[@syedshareen9599]

Kk

[@syedshareen9599]

U knw how cn I i stich dis hand sleeves. ..plz teach me _lh3.googleusercontent.com/viftvDD_kDVmTFtBDcqW-YZdn0e2EglCWwdBOqP22tEXvlds-web4xHpCxKJ3MZVKfzY8aabgQ_

[@faridtailor3918]

this pattern has not ok

[@angelakanetv]

Can you explain further.

[@narm8695]

وين الترجمه العربي

[@쥴케패턴박사]

프로패턴 알려줄께 "쥴케,,로와요 "ㅈ ㅠ ㄹ 케,, 입니다 남훈균으로와도 됩니다

[@alimi653]

I don't understand in English please talk Hindi

[@runig549]

Rubish

[@shasim41]

On the downloaded bodice pattern waist dart is included on the pattern. How do I add waist dart toy pattern?

[@angelakanetv]

Hello, The next stage, Drafting the Fitted Block which gives you a block to the waist with the waist darts is currently an eBook for my members of my site, or you can buy all my eBooks for Pattern Cutting plus the in-depth videos to download and keep here for £12 - angelakane.com/amember/cart/index/product/id/152/c/ I will be adding the Fitted Bodice Block video here for free soon.