How to INSTALL a FUSE Tap correctly | AnthonyJ350

[@johnstamoser]

Best explanation (actually the only real explanation on KZbin) of why not to put taps in the wrong way. Thank you.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad you found it helpful! 😀

[@gurjeetsingh8743]

Absolutely

[@jimmieyecyec8780]

@@AnthonyJ350hello sir my quistion compatible for a truck 24v,

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@jimmieyecyec8780 If the device you're adding operates at that voltage and the circuit you are integrating into is the same voltage. If not, you need an external voltage regulator for the aftermarket device.

[@vincepetrone752]

So the far left tab is always the source?

[@pritesh.tayade]

Best explanation. Specially the orientation test part. No one on the KZbin had explained this easy and best way.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you so much for the kind words!

[@ohokcool]

Agreed! It clears up specifically what the orientation affects, instead of just saying one orientation is right and the other is wrong. Just because there’s a better way to do something doesn’t mean people shouldn’t understand all the details. Foundational knowledge like this is what helps people understand more advanced things down the line.

[@GordonTamf35]

This is the single best video after I have spent loads of time on the research. Most videos on youtube just barely touch the safety topics here and it doesn't feel right.

[@AnthonyJ350]

So glad the video helped! 🙂

[@gunningopher]

This is a good subject to bring up. When I first started using these, I didn't consider the functionality you describe and had to revisit some that I had put in my wife's Bronco and my truck. That being said, I don't' know what the manufacturer recommends and I'm no automotive EE, but I think what you recommend is not correct unless you can confirm that the fuse panel has a high enough rating in the panel. Certainly fuses are there to protect the wiring after the fuse, but the manufacturer has the BUS and wiring leading to the fuse with the load in mind as well. IMO the main circuit (original rating) fuse should protect the draw from both loads until you confirm that the entire run (before and after) can support both loads. This has the effect that sort of makes the add-on accessory subservient to the main load fuse. Yes this runs the risk of popping that fuse and cutting power to 2 accessories more often, but that keep the wiring safe, which is one of the main reasons you fuse before the wiring in the first place. The key is to pick the right load to tap into, an intermittent one that ideally isn't being used when the second load is active or that has a high start-up draw. A 'cigarette lighter' fuse position is a perfect choice. It has user controlled demand. Ultimately, I don't think it matters, since I don't think you should tap more than about 5A this way anyhow. High wattage transceivers (CB, ham, GMRS), off-road lights, air pumps, coolers and etc. should be run off a dedicated circuit from the battery, in my opinion. I've set up a bus for those before to minimize the battery connections.

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's why they're only suited for low amperage applications or just used as triggers.

[@shark_plissken]

i think i agree with you.. i would WANT my "aftermarket" device to trip off and not run if the fuse blew. It would indicate something is wrong. If i connected it the way suggested where constant power is going to it, something is off, and the source fuse blew, but i may not relaize it if its something small

[@daimlerfan9498]

I have watched several videos on this subject; yours is the easiest to understand. Thank you

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped you!

[@justinthornton1892]

I’m lost. I’m trying to do this with clearance lights on my truck.

[@UnreadyPlayer]

It's a good thing I caught your video before messing around with my car's fuse box. I really thought the taps were plug and play; the orientation is critical and must be stressed out. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, man! 🤙🤙

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad you found the video helpful! 🙂

[@who-dn5cl]

Thank you very much Anthony for the clear instructions and very useful practical demo. I am 70 and just decided to install my own dash cam |(for the first time)which requires permanent 12V supply . Your testing of the wire tap is very useful to make sure that my dashcam do not go through the host fuse below.👋👌 much appreciated.🙏🖖

[@AnthonyJ350]

So glad to hear the video helped you 🙂

[@peterv8459]

thank You very much for explanation of taps and why not to put taps in the wrong way. Thank you.

[@AnthonyJ350]

You're welcome!

[@dennisgreenfield5234]

Mate, I am a house electrician and I have a pretty good knowledge of car wiring too. I am sincerely impressed with your explanation of a very important point in connecting to an automotive circuit. What a great video and a very clear explanation about what to do and not to do. I see from the comments below you have probably saved a lot of headaches if not lives. Cheers to you.😃

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you for watching!

[@spelunkerd]

Those are good points. Traditional engineering aims to position fuses upstream of the wires they protect, but there is a practicality of how to protect the short stretch of wiring leading to the fuse. When those boxes are designed the engineers will not consider that somebody would tap a fuse and add more current. So, you take a small risk to upstream wiring when you add a second circuit in parallel. If you have add a 5 amp circuit to a 10 amp preexisting circuit, now the maximum upstream current is 15, not 10. I agree with your remark that putting fuses in series for branch circuits feels messy, but it does safely limit upstream current to what it was designed for, 10 in that example. Fortunately there is usually enough tolerance built into standards that the risk is low. Even so, I like your idea of a relay, which allows design of the heavy elements of the circuit directly from a source of power.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for the comment!

[@davidk7050]

I agree, it is safer to run all the current through the bottom fuse so you protect your car wiring from being overloaded. That is the purpose of having the fuse.

[@holdenhewitt251]

In other words, if you first test only the new fuse (in the slot closest to the wire), you can determine the correct orientation based whether or not your accessory is getting power, without needing to check for continuity. Great video!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@snipermconeshot]

Just what I was looking for. I did assume correctly about the placement of the factory v aftermarket fuse because of the lead wire's placement, but watching your instructional video taught me how to confirm/test these taps/adapters. Thank you.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad it helped!

[@luispires5399]

Excellent explanation with the whole picture including the meter on continuity,I’m an electrician (commercial) not automotive. Thanks so much for making the video. I posted a written explanation before with a hand drawn diagram but you took it to another level. Especially explaining Not to tap off critical task functions.❤

[@AnthonyJ350]

So glad you found the information useful 🙂

[@joeldoxtator9804]

Thank's. This was a good explanation of what to expect when tapping a fuse. I bought a new set of headlights that requires a fuse tap for the DRL's and no tap was included for the harness. Now I know what I need and how to use it.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad it helped!

[@noellynn5569]

Thank you!!!!!!❤ cause my mechanic split it with my left speaker with my ignition coil 😂 I'm a 38 female and this made the fix so easy to fix!!! THANK YOU!!! ❤❤❤❤

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad it helped!

[@Steve1Gi]

What a brilliant simple explanation ..Nobody I know ever mentioned this before ..Thankyou so much .

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped you!

[@stevenerickborges3226]

Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to explain it. It really helped me a lot.

[@AnthonyJ350]

So glad to hear it helped you 🙂

[@chrisgraham2904]

Great information, that even the fuse tap manufacturers don't provide.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad it helped!

[@Stuffandus]

This video was amazing, it help me figure out exactly what my problem was by explaining the fuse adapters needing to be plugged in a certain way to get power. I was able to figure out where to get power and hook up my Dash cam and backup camera to my interior fuse box. Thanks for making such a great video!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you for watching!

[@Yavorh55]

This video really made it click how these taps work, awesome video!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad it helped!

[@TheAngryCamper]

I didn't even know I needed to watch this vid but youtube kept suggesting it over and over again and now I'm glad I watched it!!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped you!

[@gertsy2000]

Real important point is that the Fuse Tap pin furthest from the Fuse Tap cable is where active power should come in. So in the example shown initially inside the fuse box, with power to the right side of the fuse, that means the fuse tap cable should run to the left. Often people will mistakenly orient the fuse tap where it best fits.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for the comment!

[@stealthg35infiniti94]

Excellent tutorial! All my Camera/Radar Detectors use this method. It's getting harder on new cars to find a ACC ON fuse. I had to use the passenger's heater circuit. LOL!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad you liked it!

[@deldili6598]

Try the spare ports.

[@stealthg35infiniti94]

@@deldili6598 Yes ofcourse, if the spare ports are ON when you want them to. In a lot of my cases, the spare ports are Constant ON and not ACC ON.

[@korkser]

​@stealthg35infiniti94 yep had the same problem with spare ports. I ended up using cluster, not sure what else I should do for another tap

[@stealthg35infiniti94]

@@korkser Just make sure where you take your power is not a Critical System. Try using secondary systems that can handle the extra power draw, such as radio, amplifier, seat heaters, mirror motor circuits, etc... Every car is different and so are the challenges.

[@hashtagjustadad5110]

Fantastic explanation!!!! This was straight forward and clear cut.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped you!

[@davidnajera483]

7:59 at this time you said to pick and ignition fuse to tap into but a couple seconds later you said not to tap into ignition. Which one did you mean if you don’t mind? Also what about empty fuse ports? Would we be able to use those spots by just adding a fuse in there? If not how come?

[@soulshower]

Thnx for the tip. 'Littelfuse' Mini Add-A--Circuit Holder instructions say what you said about checking for proper polarity.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad it helped!

[@commoncents456]

This is a good video Im not sure showing a relay was needed for this video. stressing out the wire can get confusing. Maybe a tutorial, or a series might be helpful Thanks again

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching

[@workingguy-OU812]

I did choose to hook to the 4WD fuse power slot - it's there on all Silverados, yet mine and many others are only 2WD's.

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's fine since the equipment isn't in the truck. You're just treating it like a "spare" location. If the truck had 4WD I wouldn't use that location though because it's too essential of an item.

[@alexretlaw]

Outstanding - - - Orientation is very important. Your video is the first I've seen that provides proper connection education.👍

[@AnthonyJ350]

So glad you found value in the video!

[@scorpionknight2211]

thanks for this. got a new truck with no 12v in cabin so I need to wire in my own. now I'm sure it'll get done right.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped!

[@MarzNet256]

Cool. I actually picked these up to use as a tap on an Amp Buddy to get voltage in addition to current readings on a pico scope (won't be drawing any Amps with it). I could use a piercing probe on the Amp Buddy loop but this seems like a better solution.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Let us know how it works out.

[@OzzSabbath]

Find your wiper blade fuse. It always has no power with key off and power with key on. In my vehicle the wiper blade fuse is inside my vehicle so it makes it easy to run your power to the dash cam. Great video. I needed a refresher.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I wouldn't pick that circuit because it's a safety item.

[@OzzSabbath]

@@AnthonyJ350 Good point. Can't argue that.

[@jasonknox1926]

This is really well explained! Off to check my fuse taps now 😮

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped!

[@wescat2]

Great explanation. I like the variation of Souce & Device vs. Line & Load.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad you liked the video 🙂

[@andytooturnt]

@4:10 you say the size of the new fuse has to be larger but if im installing a dash cm how do i know what new fuse to use?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Equivalent to the new device requirements.

[@southerncross4956]

Very good explanation, thank you.

[@AnthonyJ350]

You're welcome!

[@SoaringAguila1969]

Thank you for these tips. My problems solved. Just need to find out which fuses I can use to power up my aftermarket powered windows and seats. Any ideas? Once again your tips is very well appreciated.

[@AnthonyJ350]

That type if install you'll need to run a thick wire to the battery and fuse it at the battery for your relays.

[@SoaringAguila1969]

@ Thank you for your response. With that setup would I still get a continuous power? Not like other accessories(cigarette lighter or radio) it’s off when the car is off. And that the set up I would like for the powered seats and windows. Trying to avoid the battery from getting drained. Btw I do have relays but not sure if that will work . Do you have realy recommendations for my applications. Thank you

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@SoaringAguila1969 You would be using relays and a switch to control them. You'll need to set it up so they can only be used with ignition.

[@joshuachristabanera7133]

This is a very very educational video, thank you very much for this. But I need some clarification. In my Pajero Sport, I have a dedicated RELAY SLOT and FUSE SLOT for heated seat (20A) and headlamp washer (20A) which at the moment are empties because i dont have these features. Now I plan to install additional LED DRL's or aux lights (max 8A) that would stay ON the entire time while engine is running. Can I safely use those empty relay and fuse slots? Not needing anymore extra relay for those aux lights?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I think so. Heated seats pull a lot and you're attaching a device well under the rating of the wiring. As long as it's fused correctly and you pick a good ground.

[@DNav-cz6tx]

Thank you for your very valuable video s Anthony, but you have to consider adding captions for us hard of hearing viewers

[@AnthonyJ350]

You're welcome. I was under the impression I had auto captions turned on and KZbin creates them if you enable it.

[@05cesarleo]

Great vid finally. Was looking for orientation in which is the power side etc. Wouldn't ideal be a slot that is empty?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yes, ideal situation is you use a spare slot.

[@InnerTriad]

You are a god among men, thank you!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you for the kind words!

[@bghancock84]

Is it okay if both are 10amp or always the maine one have to be bigger not equal? Thank you.

[@عبدالرحمناسكندر-ص3ر]

Does the after market fuse’s amber has to be strictly less than the original circuit fuse, or it can be equal to it also? And which one is better, the original fuse’ amber equal to the aftermarket one, or it is bigger than it?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Preferably smaller. If you have to pull amperage, use the fuse tap to control a relay that is fused and hooked up to the battery.

[@shehzad555]

Hey mate. Thank you for this video it was broken down nicely. I understand that the tap will need to be positioned correctly so that it piggybacks the constant power from the fuse box. However, where you lost me is in terms of the difference in amp between the fuse that came with the fuse tap and the normal fuse from the car. What should be the difference.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I try to always have the aftermarket fuse a smaller value than the factory one.

[@silentbravo]

Always putting out the excellent info, even learned something about the orientation. I'll have to check my tap(s).

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching so regularly!

[@Eli-Lopez]

Best KZbin video about fuses!! No one explains it better than you my good sir 🫡 I learned so much! Now I can use this to install my dash cam.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Happy to hear the video helped you!

[@mitch3424]

clear video 👍. these remind me of those plug adapters people used to piggy back plugs years ago ! they were a stupid idea too !

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@battman0624]

I am installing a led light strip do you think it will be ok to connect it to the daytime running lights?

[@MrNYCinc]

Yep

[@AnthonyJ350]

If you want them to turn on with that circuit.

[@MBLife2024]

Not sure I got your valuable knowlegde sharing as I'm not electrician and have no idea about this. I have bought a dashcam with hardwire kit which required to be connected to fuses in my Rav4 LE AWD 2018. I'm struggling with these things and dont know how to do. Could you recommend?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Recommend bringing it to a trusted experienced install shop.

[@boldlionpro2814]

Absolutely Bomb Explanation!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped you 🙂

[@hehehks]

GREAT video and clear demonstration, mate! Now I have some basic concept on the fuse box and the tap, thank you so much!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you! Glad the video helped!

[@johnredpath]

Excellent tutorial...thank you.

[@miguelrodriguez1203]

Wahoo. Thank you for resolving my trouble .I don't give 10 stars. I was given 20 stars

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you!

[@omahaikk2191]

This is a million dollar video! LIKE.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you for watching!

[@FreshGaming]

Hi, great video and amazing explanation just one question if you could answer please 🙏 So for the fuse adapter when you plug in the car fuse and then have to put another fuse on top which fuse do you have to put on top ?

[@AnthonyJ350]

How come you're adding another fuse on top?

[@hawkeye7435]

The fuse that put on top is your new additional fuse where you supposed to run your additional new circuit. The fuse in the bottom is the old factory existing fuse.🙂

[@YOassron]

Great video -- thank you. Quick question - I have '22 Buick Encore GX and trying to add dash cam to fuse box but when i test for voltage while car is off EVERY fuse seems to have 12+ volts running on them. Do you know about newer car systems holding voltage until a certain time expires? I have it plugged into the cigarette lighter power port and that thing shuts off as soon as i turn the engine off but I am not clear , by the fuse diagram, which circuit that is on but i may end up having to use a T-tap terminal to tap into that wiring for the cigarette power port so the cam shuts off when the car does.

[@AnthonyJ350]

A lot of new cars use data to turn devices on and off so all the circuits are "hot" all the time. I know it's ridiculous. What I have had to do is run a wire to accessory ports and solder to the positive wire with a fuse inline in order to get an accessory signal.

[@YOassron]

@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks for the note back on this and help explaining it. Someone else told me that it may time out after 10+ minutes but i dont want my footwell lights & dash cam to stay on that long after the car is off. Interesting on what you said you do as i did research further and decided to use a T-tap terminal and splice into the power going to the back seat accessory port and then i can use that to what i need + hide wires under the console.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@YOassron The only thing I would change is swapping the t-tap to a soldered connection. Seen way too many failures caused because of t-taps.

[@tedjohnson64]

Very insightful video! Thanks for sharing this. Those precautions are missing from the other videos I watched on this topic.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad you found the video helpful!

[@chicagohandyman]

Can you use this method to create an always hot cigarette socket? Its sole purpose would be to plug in a solar trickle charger (with an integrated charge controller) to charge the battery since the car only gets used every 2-3 weeks. Or would you just run wires directly from the cigarette plug to the battery?

[@AnthonyJ350]

You need a battery management system to do that properly and effectively.

[@Tony40022]

Great video!!! I’m still little confused, how do I know how much amp I need for my starlights? It says it’s a 12v but nothing about amp

[@AnthonyJ350]

It's in the owner's manual. Or you power it up on the bench and use a fuse buddy or multimeter to measure current draw.

[@meledyne5059]

Thanks for the vid! needed it for installing W1 gauge cluster on my 350z

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped you!

[@truealarmer]

2002 Ford Ranger, both cigarette lighters stay on when power is off. Just to confirm, you are saying that if I use this tap, and the cigarettes utilize 20A, I should be using 5A to 10A when tapping into a "non-essential" ignition off 10A fuse?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yes, you'll want to stay under the nominal rating of the fuse to reduce the risk of overloading it.

[@protem_music]

super insightful. thank you for this tutorial

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad it helped!

[@HERLEGASEA]

I hooked up a light bar to my fuse box. I used an add a fuse tap and added it to the tailight fuse. The light bar never shuts off. What did I do wrong?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Did you install a switch and a relay with it?

[@summerwinter2272]

Great stuff😊....1 question: does the fuse for the device need to be under the amp rating of the factory, or can it be the same?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Preferably lower to not stress out the circuit.

[@pudchuck]

Very helpful and thorough. Thank you!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@chesterkimble1830]

Wow this is very helpful. I do have a question though.... i was trying to wired some very small led lights that arent for headlights or anything, its something custom. Very small. The controller module for the lights say 5v on it. It originally came with a usb but i cut the usb and used a fuse tap on it. Is there a way to limit the 12v power to 5v because i think it fried my module.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Either the original part or a voltage regulator.

[@freescape08]

I assume if youve got no seat heater and you plug into the seat heater fuse location (with an appropriate fuse for the location & load), all's good?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yes, you would treat it like a spare location

[@hectorheras2158]

So to sum it up, if you did it correctly you can test if you did it correctly by disconnecting one of the fuses the other one should stay on, if you connect it back and disconnect the other fuse the other one should stay on?

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's definitely a good way to verify.

[@bumCamilo.]

This man is incredible thanks brother. ❤️

[@AnthonyJ350]

I appreciate that!

[@fatihtaran8228]

hello i bought two of this cable car camera to be able to use it in parking mode. I connected it to the fuse box by adjusting the leg direction. But I could not see the voltage at the fuse tape output, is the cable broken? 4:20 I short-circuited like you did I didn't hear a beep sound on both of my wires I think were broken. in your opinion

[@AnthonyJ350]

Might be

[@MSH3423]

I'm troubleshooting dashcam installation. this video on fuse tap has been very helpful. is it safe to assume. if the car is using a fuse, the fuse is not directional. only amp matters. BUT the fuse tap has polarity?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Tap does not have polarity

[@6xcchamber971]

I have put a 5.3 in a 95 mustang and putting in a standalone harness. The power wire needs to be hot with key/on. I was told that I could hook it to a 50amp fuse in the cars factory fuse block... Need help, what is your opinion on this. Just trying to get it running and reliable. There is also a purple wire that is to be hooked up to the fuel pump also. Thank you

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would integrate with the ignition harness, via soldering. You can use a poke and wrap technique and solder after with a fuse inline. How much amperage does the line need? You might need to use a relay to deliver the power from the battery.

[@ecobooster8298]

Awesome video. Thank you! Question, so if the LED strip I'm going install requires 10A, you mean I should add the fuse tap to a 20A spare? You mentioned to ensure anything you add should be less than the original. Or, I'm going into an spare unused 10A, I can use the 10A fuse there?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would only match the original. Also look at the device you're installing to see it's amperage requirements. If it's a lot, I use the fuse tap to only control a relay and the relay sends power from the battery.

[@dondada1949]

Can you use a fuse tap to connect to a 15V source to power a 15V device if one of the slots in the fuse box, rated at 15A, is damaged?

[@AnthonyJ350]

How many amps is the device rated at?

[@AdrianJayeOnline]

great explanation on the adda-fuse, simples !

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks so much for watching!

[@Baharrii]

Can you use a fuse tap on a empty slot? My fuse box in the cab doesn’t have many options and the ones there are aren’t rated high enough for the tap fuse I was [20A] so need a [25A] or higher.

[@AnthonyJ350]

You can but I would use in conjunction with a relay hooked up to battery with a fuse if you are pulling bigger amperage like that.

[@saulgoodman124]

Sir I got confused now.. Should I put the stock fuse in the bottom position of the fuse tap or the top position of the fuse tap? By bottom I mean the side connected to the pins of FUSE Tap Adapter . Would really appreciate if you could reply

[@AnthonyJ350]

Stock fuse goes in the location where there is no wire.

[@2wrdr]

I'm looking for a standard mini ATC fuse adapter that will allow me to connect to an unused fuse location in a fuse box. The problem with the type shown in this video is when there are already fuses on both sides on the unused fuse location the product physically won't fit. So what I need is exactly what is shown here but with only one slot in it for a single use fuse, not two slots. Hope that makes sense, in other words the product shown allows a slot for the fused circuit already in use AND an axillary fuse slot for something you are adding. I want a thinner product which will fit between two fuses already in use.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would just search "fuse tap" on Amazon and browse the different styles.

[@2wrdr]

@@AnthonyJ350 I just tried "fuse tap: and went through 3 long pages of these on Amazon and all are double slots which makes no sense but thanks for suggestion.

[@krishampton7060]

Was wondering, if I used one of these to tap power from my horn circuit to power a bar mount charger on my motorcycle and held the horn on, would that take the power away from my bar mount charger 🤔

[@AnthonyJ350]

I wouldn't use that curcuit

[@krishampton7060]

@@AnthonyJ350 it’s a 2003 bmw GS I think it’s the least risky ignition live circuit on the bike to tap from. Even though I don’t ride around with my horn held on, would doing so take power from the accessory ??

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@krishampton7060 Using a relay and controlling the relay with accessory and a fuse and diode inline is Ideal. That prevent back feeding and any stress on thr circuit.

[@krishampton7060]

@@AnthonyJ350 dunno if it’s worth mentioning but it’s a handle bar mount phone charger with a 3 Amp fuse, tapping into a 7.5 Amp horn fuse location. It’s a quad lock contactless phone charger 🤔

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@krishampton7060 It's safe that it won't prevent the bike from running. But the horn is a crucial safety item as well. You can use it, but I would use it to trigger a relay that is fused at the battery.

[@99Woodcutting]

If I utilize an unused(spare) fuse spot that has power and a fuse present already, do I need two fuses on the tap or can i just move the original fuse up to the second slot for power to the accessory? thanks!

[@AnthonyJ350]

You can just use the bottom fuse. It will work if you get the orientation correct.

[@deganni2688]

great tutorial! i like the detailed explanation - thanks

[@AnthonyJ350]

You're welcome!

[@EliteDovaGames]

Great information! He knows his stuff

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@xrosnero]

is my understanding correct? correct orientation with 15A original Fuse and 10A ACC fuse - each will draw 15A and 10A respectively reverse orientation with 15A original Fuse and 10A ACC fuse - both will draw 25A together?

[@AnthonyJ350]

One way pulls amperage seperately. Wrong orientation will flow through the main circuit for both devices.

[@xrosnero]

@@AnthonyJ350 what will be the total amperage then for 15A and 10A fuse if wrong orientation? total 25A for both devices?

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@xrosnero It depends on what the device draws

[@2_Bike_is_Life]

If installed wrong, it turns two independently fused circuits, into a serial run through both fuses. Correct me if I'm wrong.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yes, you're passing through the first fuse then

[@przemokbh8079]

I want to turn on remote of active subwoofer and I want to choose lighter socket. But there is 15A did I need also use 15A for my remote cable ?

[@AnthonyJ350]

You can put in a 5 amp fuse in the after market slot of the fuse tap.

[@jmmiddleton92]

Do you have an opinion on using this method to power the REM wire of an aftermarket amplifier?

[@AnthonyJ350]

You definitely can. Just pick a non-essential circuit that works with the factory head unit. I recommend Audio Control's LC2i for audio integration.

[@thaidizzle]

What is the voltage meter you are using at about 1:00 to 1:10 mark? Seems like it doesn't need ground and is non-contact as well just proximity. Would love to get one like that if you can provide links or info. Thanks!

[@AnthonyJ350]

It needs ground. I have the cable hooked up to chassis, you just can't see it on camera.

[@freerangechickenman054]

I have 03 silverado and want to install fuse tap. My truck doesn't have a sunroof, yet has a 25 amp fuse dedicated to it. Can I use that space for it? i'm installing ham radio.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Can definitely use it for your ignition turn on. I would wire the radio main power to the battery directly on a separate fuse.

[@freerangechickenman054]

@@AnthonyJ350 Thank you so much for the quick reply.

[@andreabillie9472]

I have a 2016 dodge challenger. Does any have a good recommendation which fuse should I tap into to add an after market radio?

[@AnthonyJ350]

The power port circuits are switched aren't they?

[@andreabillie9472]

@@AnthonyJ350 I have no clue

[@andreabillie9472]

I just want to add a second radio for stereo purposes. The factory sucks to me.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@andreabillie9472 You use a module for those vehicles to get a proper accessory input and all your interfacing.

[@zaifkhann]

Good, but I've question please reply me in detail, if i don't have fuse tap and I've an inline fuse holder which have two wires and I'm going to install this inline fuse holder to underdash fuse box let say heater fuse, so to which side wire i connect first, how to connect it before or after original heater fuse?

[@AnthonyJ350]

What are you powering?

[@zaifkhann]

@@AnthonyJ350 door lights

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@zaifkhann You would follow the video but choose a constant circuit.

[@zaifkhann]

@@AnthonyJ350 okay i checked and i find out a driver side power mirror as a constant 12v only, do you think this is the safe location to tap in?

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@zaifkhann If the lights are LED and have minimal draw. If the draw is large you'll have to just hook up to the battery with a fuse. Do the lights activate when the door opens? If they are door lights, I would look for the dome light fuse so it only gets power when the door opens.

[@SalmanHussain]

I have my underglows installed with a fuse tap with the rear window wiper motor fuse. One of the only 12V fuses I found in the engine bay

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would have those on a relay fused and control them with a switch.

[@SalmanHussain]

@@AnthonyJ350 I need to learn to do that 😅 they’re off 95% of the time and I usually use my phone to turn them on and off

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@SalmanHussain I made this videonfor basics kzbin.info/www/bejne/rauogmmlmJuZd8U

[@Dshzzzt]

Unfortunately I’m over here working with Micro2 fuses, and the probes on both my multimeter and circuit tester are too thick to fit in the sockets. I would need to have a blown fuse or something like it in order to determine which side of the socket is hot.

[@AnthonyJ350]

You need the little needle adaptors for your probes.

[@Dshzzzt]

@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks! Turns out, my probes were able to reach the contacts inside of the fuse tap without a fuse in it, effectively extending the socket for testing. Thanks for the great video!

[@TimSmith-db1iu]

Can you use different sizes fuses such as a 7a and the OEM 10A? I'm assuming YES because essentially its a separate circuit.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yes you can, provided the new one is typically smaller and you don't overload the circuit.

[@CaneSsoLOVING]

I have a 2011 Hyundai Genesis 4.6 any advice on what fuses would be good to use? Thanks 👍

[@AnthonyJ350]

Preferably ones labelled "acc" or "accessory".

[@stanpickersgill75]

Thank you. Very good and clear explanation.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped you!

[@Philipmoore10]

I'm assuming micro 3 fuses and adapters work the same way?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Micro I think it doesn't matter which way you plug it in.

[@rossman1377]

Well done - very useful. Thanks.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad it was helpful!

[@mrghost5854]

i have 1 question, The original fuse is 5 amp and when i installed the fuse tap, can i use 5amp for both slot in the fuse tap?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yes you should be able to

[@yonghwankevinkim3960]

Hey there, if I'm using a fuse tap and there's an empty slot in my fuse panel, can I simply use that slot instead of using a fuse with an existing, non-essential function? I'm looking to install a dashcam.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yes most definitely, always try to use empty slots when available.

[@yonghwankevinkim3960]

@@AnthonyJ350 Thank you!

[@chrisbcttraveler7495]

so if i need the red 12 volt acc wire behind my radio to go on and off i can t get a fuse tap to go on and off my car says my 12volt ignition switch is just a 2 amp though how is that possible wouldnt the fuse blow then ?