#Apo1

Are super steels really that great?
Long Term Test AUS8:
• How much can AUS8 stee...
Extreme Destruction Test of AUS8:
• Cold Steel SRK, what c...
I had a couple of rather brittle super-steel knives that chipped on me, then I got a knife in AUS8 and it never chipped on me once, hence I made the decision to produce my own survival knife in AUS8. It needs more sharpening than other steels but for me personally it is not a big deal, at least I know that AUS8 has less risk of breaking or chipping. Please keep in mind that this is not a Fallkniven bashing video, Fallkniven is a respectable knife manufacturer, and they produce a lot of great knives. Today's video was only about steel choice.
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This video was made and produced in Austria.

[@SurvivalLilly]

Thanks for watching this video. My knife is sold out btw... so I want to thank all my customers who supported me and bought an APO-1. For those who did not get one in time I expect new knives to arrive around mid of March. If you want to get a reminder per email. Just send me a business email. You will find the email address at my website. Besides here is another destruction test I did with a very thin AUS8 steel prototype, much thinner than the S1 I broke in this video. See what happens: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYbEoqp_oKiLepo

[@BackCountryRunaway]

You should test out the new cold steel srk in sk5.

[@redsorgum]

Survival Lilly How about a smaller version of your knife 🔪 for food/finer tasks.

[@ChrisGilliamOffGrid]

@@BackCountryRunaway Did they quit making the AUS 8 version of the SRK?

[@BackCountryRunaway]

@@ChrisGilliamOffGrid yeah

[@ChrisGilliamOffGrid]

@@BackCountryRunaway Wow. Bad move.

[@MrCelticatheart]

As a knife sharpener I feel it is quite important to mention that AUS-8 is super easy to resharpen! I have found it sometimes has the edge roll in spots but a quick hone on a ceramic rod fixes it in short order with very minimum steel removal. Super easy to put a razor edge on it! Great choice for a survival knife in my opinion. Great choice Lilly!

[@faretheewell3711]

This doesnt apply to 3V or cru wear or other similar super steels, they blow Aus-8 out of the water in every aspect besides maybe corrosion resistance.

[@AG.Floats]

Yep exactly. Aus8 is garbage. Not sure why she is so crazy about chips or breaking the tip. Never had an issue with super steels.

[@AG.Floats]

Not quite true you Lilly sheep. Can get a Benchmade 200 Puukko for $110 in CPM 3V

[@dabeerguy79]

@OmteZero her knife is $150 my benchmade lukue was $130 and is 3v

[@Wanderingsamurai_life]

@@dabeerguy79 holy shit. 150 for aus8. Thats a rip off. I got a lionsteel m4 with m390 for less than that.

[@sopwithcamelus]

@@AG.Floats Garbage? Lol, why? Because you don't know how to sharpen a knife? Because someone else told you so?

[@esp9sram]

Vg10 is not a super steel! That being said AUS 8 is tougher then vg10! The title of this video "are super Steels really that great?" There were no super Steels involved in this video. Fallkniven is known for using a laminating procedure and this case 420 J2 with vg10 as the core. This procedure will make the vg10 at best 30% tougher! But in this case aus-8 still prevailed! Chipping versus rolling! There are times when rolling can be just as much work to repair as chipping! Obviously it depends on the severity of it. As far as the tip bending instead of breaking off we have to consider metal fatigue! Bending it back and forth just a few times can compromise the Integrity of the steel! Ultimately there is no winner here! We all just need to understand and respect the tool that we are working with and its limitations!

[@globy4104]

You’re that guy. Accept it or stop.

[@JohnB-dr8sk]

@@globy4104 I know. These guys are mostly retired Boomers with big retirements and savings whose lives revolve around showing up everyone with more expensive toys. They are a pretty sad bunch.

[@kovalsky7620]

Steel type is only one factor that determines the blade strength. Also the heat treatment decides about the edge ratention and elasticity. The higher You will harden the steel the longer will the knife keep it's sharpness but the less elastic will it be and easier to break. So U can harden for example the aus8 steel up to 60 HRC (Rockwell scale of mesuring hardnes if i remember it corectly) and a blade with such hardness will bend less and will break more easy than a blade from some super-steel hardened up to for example 57 HRC. So not only the steel type by it selve decides about a knives durability edge retention and strength. Also blade form and grind matters ... It will be much easy to chip a blade with a full scandy than a sabre(compound) grind or a convex... and so on. Many different factors decide about how good and destruction resistant a blade is. The most important factor in my opinion is the ...user... if U can use a cheap knife made from a poor quality steel wisely it will serve U longer than a high quality one in hands of an inexperienced user. .... sorry for such long poem. Greetings... Ps. If U're going to throw out the Falkniven with the broken tip could U reveal the location of U'r garbage container ;) ?? One minute with the grinder and a new tip :)

[@teegotime]

This was the comment I wanted to see. Knife durability, edge retention, and sharpen-ability are WAY more complicated than mere steel choice.

[@kovalsky7620]

@@teegotime I'm sorry if I made some spelling mistakes . I didn't use English for a long time.

[@teegotime]

@@kovalsky7620 I think you misunderstood. I was in agreement with what you said. 👍

[@JohnSmith-fw2et]

I got your first knife Lilly and I’m very satisfied. I don’t abuse it, I take care of it. It is comfortable and balanced in use and the size allows back and forth access to vehicles and equipment without having to take it off the belt.

[@ARH0101]

It’s all in heat treat. For example, 420 HC is mediocre. However, Buck’s Bos 420HC performs like that of 1095 carbon. There are many factors that come into play.

[@wrathofatlantis2316]

There’s nothing mediocre about 420... I never rolls that bad, never chips, rarely makes a wire edge, and sharpens like carbon while being stainless. No other steel comes close. It does warp easily (so does INFI, worse in fact) and does not like frozen wood: It suddenly rolls a lot on frozen wood, one of its few flaws.

[@VahidCullsberg]

In Scandinavia (I live in Lapland) we say that this type of debate is categorized as a "I-landsproblem". Meaning a rich country problem. Debating what technical steel is the preference. With that said, I also want to put it out there that I'm born and raised (17 years) in Centralafrica. Born In Tchad and grew up in the Central African Republic. I grew up in both the north of the country bordering to Tchad (savana and desert) and in the south bordering to the DRC (jungle). I grew up in the outdoors doing normal stuff for those regions, which is hunting, fishing, building and so on. I would be lucky if I had a knife with me. Same goes for my friends there. The question was never: What type of steel is your knife? Nobody had their own knife! It was more like: Hey can we take your father's knife/axe/spear tomorrow when we go fish? (priced working tool of father who would heat up a can of ass-whooping just for being asked). Imagine a dozen of kids with 1 "borrowed" knife/axe or spear taking turns to use it and learning it. It's so frustrating to read comments and watch videos talking about "in a survival situation". Let's be frank, when are you ever going to be in a survival situation in Europe or North America where you would depend on a knife? What are the odds? How far from your car must you be to determine that yeah "this is is a survival situation"? I day walk? 3 days? 1 month? Can I call 112/911? And also, would you cry over the type of steel you would happen to have if you were in such a dilemma? Now, I understand that many youtube people do have the opportunity to chose their steel and that it is nice and stimulating to imagine those scenarios and debate them. But that's all it is...imaginations. Pick your tool, learn it's margins, use it with common sense and have fun :) Love to you all ,

[@SurvivalLilly]

we still get a couple of lost hikers in the Austrian mountains who get lost in bad weather, some even have to stay a night up in the mountain, some don't make it. Once we had a 60 year old man who fell into a crevasse for 7 days in winter, he made it. another time a couple of runners could not find their way home anymore and had to stay the night on the mountain until rescue could get to them. also in North America where there is vast wilderness you can get lost easily. But of course if people only stay at home, such a situation will not happen to you.

[@VahidCullsberg]

@@SurvivalLilly Hey Lilly, thanks for the reply :) Yeah we have those similar unfortunate things happen in Africa and Lapland also. The areas are extremely vast and non-populated and each can challenge you in their own seasonal way. It is always a tragedy when people get badly hurt or find themselves in those types of situations. Prepared, educated or not. Accidents will happen in life. Even at home. My main point was the debate of steel choice that I believe is a bit over the top in the "survival community" based on various imagined "what ifs". I really appreciate that you took the time to reply to me. I subscribed after I watched your external pack frame video. I invite you to have a look at the wooden frame I built for my wife :)

[@ve7vie]

Come to a place like Vancouver Island (like Lilly did) and see what can go wrong. Not everyone drives. I backpack, bikepack, ski-tour and kayak. Survival can be an issue and good tools are important! Unprepared people can easily die.

[@VahidCullsberg]

@@ve7vie I would love to come :) May I also invite you to the Central African Republic and specifically to Ndele and Mbaiki. You are also very welcome to some adventures here in snowy lapland. We'll take the dogsled with us :)

[@nantahalawildman6345]

The best knife is the one you use daily and know it's limits.

[@BlackScoutSurvival]

Rock on 🤘 Lilly

[@fullfire0]

soooo this is a 20 minute long video of you trying to justify your use of aus-8 in a $120 knife? vg-10 is not a super steel, it isn't even a high end steel it's an average steel, the lowest possible steel i'd consider buying, I wouldn't get anything below it. Aus-8 in a knife that expensive is just a plain rip-off. If I remember correctly it's not even full tang. Super steels are called that for a reason and yes they are great.

[@MrRugercat45]

fullfire0 these so called “super steels” are called that to sell them, and not necessarily because of better performance. It’s a response to the demands of consumers-like everything. Honesty plays a far less important part in advertising than hype. Those “super steels” They’re mainly harder steels-and I’ve used a lot of them, and pretty much all are rip offs, in my opinion. AUS-8 is well nigh indestructible and holds that edge extremely well for the toughness, so it would seem the moniker “super steel” should be maybe attached to it, no? Lilly has far more experience it seems than a lot of other people, if I had a knife to test to the max-I would send it to her! She might break it, but she would honestly test it. I don’t prefer stainless steel in general- but if I had to have one, it would be 12C27 Sandvik or AUS-8 at this point. It’s in how you use the knife more than what it’s made of.

[@gwyn8503]

There are more factors at play here than simply "this steel vs that steel." Things like blade thickness, knife geometry, grind, differences in the quality of heat treatment, all come into play when determining a knife's characteristics. I think the Fallkniven tip had a much thinner profile than the SRK due to the false edge, for example. This is maybe a bad design for the Fallkniven for a survival knife, but I wouldn't blame the steel necessarily, (personally I'd prefer 1095 carbon steel for any big knife). Steel type determines the micro crystalline structure of a knife, which can affect all of the things tested in the video, but it is not the only factor. I'm not an expert on the micro crystaline structure of steel types, but I would think one would need to become an expert to properly account for all variables and really grasp how a steel works, beyond what is observed in a particular knife.

[@tristanvarsovia]

I agree with you, reason why I dont use super steel knives for woodcraft/bushcraft/survival. I unsubscribed from a youtube channel with a couple of presenters who are knife steel snobs.

[@btrswt35]

This is why I'm getting away from watching certain knife reviews, people absolutely abuse a knife and when it bends or breaks they jump all over it. Use a knife for what is intended for, cutting, and it will do just fine unless it's an absolute POS.

[@shroomsrus5116]

Like this knife

[@ramonrodriguez5728]

You're asking price is too much for aus-8. Aus-8 is a budget steel.

[@animistchannel2983]

If people really want something inflexible and hard, just offer your same knife in D8 tool steel. If they can somehow mess that up, good luck getting it sharp again without a machine shop. Better advice, though, is "Get a HATCHET, people! Knives are for cutting food and string! Sheesh." A hatchet or tomahawk weighs less than a kilogram, rides easy on your belt, and the back side doubles as a real hammer. I liked that "Crocodile Dundee" movie, too, but it was meant to be a comedy, not a classroom.

[@mortsnerd5100]

animist channel, I couldn't agree more, but hatchets seem to be out of favor with survivalists. I prefer a knife that does what a knife is supposed to do. The first thing I thought of when I saw Lilly hacking that bamboo was that you could cut through it in about 2 seconds using the saw on a 25 dollar Swiss Army Knife. But of course those aren't cool enough.

[@animistchannel2983]

@@mortsnerd5100 Yah, I think the "survival" community on KZbin watched "Rambo" too many times. They run about with what are essentially combat knives, trying to find a place to stick them. A rule of tools: "A tool that tries to do too many jobs ends up doing all of them badly."

[@CalebP618]

YOUR KNIFE IS RUBBISH!! You're ripping people off. It even looks cheaply made! Are you laughing all the way to the bank Lilly???

[@prodoverjeff2876]

I think the problems you are showing are not problems with the knives, but using a knife for the wrong jobs. Increasing hardness is good for scraping, cutting and carving but not for chopping or prying. I am a machinist, working for years with hard steels to cut other steels. Think of it, you can use an ax for decades for chopping, not so long for carving. An ax is not as hard a steel as a knife. When you use a harder steel for an impact, expext it to chip. When you use it to pry, expect it to break. I'm not cutting you down, just trying to teach you a bit about what we mean when we talk about hardness. You followed up saying a brittle tool is different from a tough blade that will do the work for a survivalist but will need resharpening. Absolutely correct! The brittle blade (the harder one) will carve better, the tougher blade will chop and do other things better.

[@SurvivalLilly]

yes that is exactly what i mean

[@sebastienraymond3648]

The best answer I read here. Bravo! 👍

[@lyndonlucier791]

the cutting edge on an axe is hardened the rest is not so youre wrong right off the bat sigh i was hoping a machinist would know that lol

[@martyoutdoors6172]

I'm very very very sorry but, why don't you try out the CoS steel again from Fällkniven ???? The CoS steel or "Cobalt Steel" is the thoughest stainless steel on planet earth which has 60 HRC (crazy hard!!) holds an edge for a very long time, is unbeatable. I agree about the vg 10, it is a shit steel which is for me a a piece of a crap, it chips the edge after a couple of times battoning hard oak and so on, not good steel, AUS 8 is better but not better then CoS if you want you can try it out for you're self and make a tip test with CoS steel, it will never ever break like the VG 10, and also it will not bend. Nice vid BTW, hope i see you test out the CoS steel, have a nice day ;-)

[@prodoverjeff2876]

@@lyndonlucier791 when you get done sighing, how do you harden the edge of an ax without hardening the whole piece?

[@ericn4008]

AUS8 and bucks 420HC are the best stainless for field use it just too bad too many knife snobs wont ever try them out.

[@neilcastell6951]

i have used and abused my APO-1, so far no problems. as well as being very robust it is very comfy in the hand.

[@blainwilson7937]

Aus-8 is no CPM 3V😉

[@pteronarcyscalifornica694]

She needs to get a Bark River knife with a CPM 3V blade for the way she uses a knife.

[@preparedmind101]

Not much is.

[@phonecards1]

What is the knife or steel you reference? CPM 3V?

[@pteronarcyscalifornica694]

Bobby A, the steel is CPM 3V, which is probably the toughest available knife steel on the market. If you want to baton and pry while minimizing the risk of bending or breaking your blade, 3V is a very good, albeit expensive, choice. In addition to toughness, it has good edge retention and moderate corrosion resistance and sharpening ease. Bark River Knives makes many models of bushcraft and hunting knives, and 3V is an option on some. They put a convex grind on all their blades, which I think adds to their toughness to a degree. And, sharpening a convex knife by stropping is quite simple. I EDC a Bark River Mini Fox River in a two-compartment pocket sheath with a one-cell Fenix flashlight. The MFR has a 2.9-inch 3V blade. It's big enough to do whatever I need to do outdoors, while being small enough to legally carry in my pocket for everyday use without violating state law concerning concealed carry of a dangerous weapon.

[@49giants3]

Bobby A the steel is cpm 3v. Wonderful stuff

[@badeston]

Good point; I managed to break the tip on my F1 once, never on S1 and A1. I agree, vg10 at 59 hrc is kinda hard steel, more prone to chip than AUS8 or high carboon alloys. All that said, I think that losing the very tip on a survival knife on the field is not the end of the world, you still have a very usable tool for cutting tasks. Plus, vg10 paired with convex grind retains the edge for an infinite time and won't let you down. Also keep in mind that a rolled edge is less usable and harder to restore than a microchipped one. When you talk about steels, It's always a tradeoff...

[@sirsir9665]

Yes the right super steels are that great. The CPM line are insane. They can have all the benefits of other steels but much better and the downsides to the steels aren't as bad. The true secret to a knife is heat treat. If you get the right heat treat the knife can outclass "better steel" knives. Cold Steel knives are good only because the heat treat. They can almost use any steel and get a great result as long as the right designer is making the knife behind the heat treat. You can't have the perfect all in one knife but if you have a second knife and you better carry a second one to fit the other tasks then you can have a perfect twin knife set.

[@songwriterscove4515]

I think I'd rather sharpen my knife once a week than every time I use it and just not use it for digging and gouging.

[@jenisecoronado6486]

Excellent, well done demonstration and explanations, Lilly! Really appreciate your impeccable professionalism!

[@jean-baptistecardamone7775]

I have more experience with 1095 and none with AUS-8, so my preference tend to be for 1095, it's a great field steel (not for humide environnement)

[@madmartigan7723]

I've always been happy with 1095, 5160, and 420hc from Buck. However, I am going to purchase your apo 1 soon @SurvivalLilly . Watching you has proved to me that the AUS8 you are using may serve me even better. You are awesome🤙

[@realmetis8002]

if you hate chips you should try dill pickle chip or BBQ my favorite

[@solar7max]

Is the knife balanced for throwing?

[@augustoramirezdiaz4068]

Ojojo, jajaja LOL

[@lindaclark5911]

Bahahaha french onion dip with that chip?

[@bushmantekbits1431]

ha... I was happy with my gerber but now I want a Survival Lilly APO-1 or whatever rev is coming, with the AUS8 steel :)

[@lionknives3]

Wich Gerber you have?

[@bushmantekbits1431]

Gerber Strongarm Fixed blade Brown FE. I haven't broke it yet, but I don't like the sheath. Too elaborate for what it does..... a common complaint.

[@lionknives3]

@@bushmantekbits1431 the same with my one!

[@CatmanvsKyle]

The tip strength also depends a lot on the blade thickness and geometry, maybe even as much as the steel, but yeah obviously harder steels will break or chip more easily... Ideally I would carry both a smaller knife with a harder steel for processing food and a bigger knife with softer steel for the bushcraft.

[@dbullcutter]

It depends first of all of the blade geometry.

[@ssunfish]

Plus bushcraft and survival knife are two way different animals

[@AG.Floats]

Pfffft dumb. S30v, M4 and 3V all the way. Never had a problem with chipping or losing a tip on super steels.

[@willbrink]

Most never use their knives to experience something like a chip so they're focused on edge retention, and get caught up in the superior edge retention of "super steels" which are also very difficult to sharpen in the field too. That's also why Chris Reeves keeps their knives lower RC vs higher, less likley to chip, easier to sharpen in the field, etc. at the expense of edge retention.

[@sloanIrrigation]

Every time I see another video with someone stabbing a log or flailing away at a tree with their knife, it becomes Charlie Brown's mother voice. Wa wa wa wa wa wa.. I say, stop whining about types of steels, rolled edges, broken tips and use the right tool for the job if you're camping, hiking, whatever, which is as close to a "survival situation" as most will ever come. If you ever do end up in a situation, be glad you have a knife at all no matter what it is and take good care of it. And while you're taking care of your blade, you will, at the same time, sensibly conserve your energy for better things than stabbing logs, chipping trees, batoning firewood, etc.

[@elforeigner3260]

Our ancestors cut down whole woods thousands years ago with stone axes. If a “super steel” breaks against wood, it’s just a piece of cheap Chinese junk with an American or European brand on top of it

[@desertrainfrog1691]

@@elforeigner3260 The problem is when chopping down a tree, you're just hitting it. She's stabbing shit into logs and bending it.

[@MovieGuy666]

you missed the whole point of the video, i think you just read the title and didn't watch the video.

[@kennethmaddox6219]

u just can not justify AUS 8 steel for the price u r asking for. AUS 8 is ok. But never ever for the price u r setting ur knives at.

[@ssunfish]

@@cck6591 not called for!

[@rickymartinis8530]

TOP 3 steels are 1.ZDP-189 Japanese steel,2. COWRY-X Japanese steel,3. RWL-34 Swedish steel ( BAYLEY S-4 super knife custom made for Bear Gryls is made of RWL-34 ) .....alternative steels are AUS-8 and AUS-10 and maybe a German D-2 steel...forget other shit .CPM-3V is apparently tough steel but NOT stainless .one update; consider M390 steel too.

[@ynotjf]

So what’s the best blade steel? The one you’re selling, of course! I’d take 1095 over AUS8 any day but I’d take 3V over 1095. Guess what, I’d take M390 or Elmax over 3V for most tasks. AUS8, not even on my radar..

[@houseboatrob4238]

She is a joke .

[@petrnemec7840]

Hello, like your content overall but pls stop calling VG10 a super steel.(Try a knive with CPM technology and then judge). Aus 8 is just a so-so tool steel, so even D2 or O1 are better in every aspect.

[@jakesadventurecanada3434]

Best knife ever. I love this knife and I am slowly abusing it to see how good it stands and so far its the best thing ever

[@jakesadventurecanada3434]

@Brian Owens best knife i owned so far and I have a few knives. Its solid and does a fantastic job its size

[@roryconall645]

My opinion only: Super Steels are great, like you said, for edge retention. What I don't like about them isn't the brittleness (if heat treated right, they aren't brittle), but that they area royal pain to sharpen in the field. Even with diamond sharpeners. At home on a belt grinder, sure. Wonderful EDC? Yes. Wonderful field knife? No. Steels in the class of AUS-8/420HC, or 1095 are very robust, do not chip or break easy, and while they do not exhibit the best edge retention, they are very easy to sharpen, and IMO that more than makes up for it. Even the "magic Swedish steel" in axes like Gransfors Bruks use the equivalent of US 1055 with a very good heat treat. For knives, especially field knives, my personal favorite is 5160 spring steel, commonly used in leaf springs for vehicles. With a proper spring temper, it will deflect and return to original shape far more than other steels, and though a little more difficult to sharpen than AUS-8 or 1095, still sharpens up nicely with regular sharpening stones.

[@cmac1100]

I'm beginning to think that heat treat has a lot more to do with reliability that particular steels. And I'm right there with you on hardness of the edge

[@MrDravous]

it definitely does, especially in the higher alloys. it's really easy to mess up.

[@jamescooper2618]

I think that companies who wind up with great knives are the ones who have nailed the heat treat process. It's not just a number, it's a process and difficult to do well.

[@cmac1100]

@@jamescooper2618 yep I agree with that too.

[@shroomsrus5116]

@@dick_richards cold steel, esee, buck? What’re your suggestions for brands with down pat heat treatment?

[@shroomsrus5116]

@@dick_richards Yeah I get that, I’m just talking generally

[@clarencenorem9337]

Wonderful video, a survival knife should do about anything,,maybe not the best at all things ,,but good at everything, I have been a hunter and camper and what is called now(BUSHCRAFTER) as I am 62 years old and have been enjoying Bush crafting , long before the turm came out,, you are very talented Lilly ,,and tryely beautiful,,you are a dream girl,,xoxo

[@akcprivat]

you should test the new SRKs in SK5 steel

[@lesliedetrick8964]

Why they will suck and fail. Ever knife does with her

[@pauldayton5285]

@@lesliedetrick8964 😂😂😂 Except that APO-1 right? That knife is PERFECT in every way😂

[@delavega92]

fallkniven vg10 for outdoor knives is a joke it's more expensive than the vg1 cold steel use but do not perform as well. It barely hold a longer edge than the vg1 with a massive trade off in durability and toughness. fallkniven thought laminated it will solve the problem, and yes it did solve the knife breaking in half problem but they forgot about the chipping. Fallkniven did not research and test their product, they just simply pick the more expensive steel to look good on paper so their customer will think they got a superior product. If they have done any testing at all they would have pick the vg1 like cold steel did.

[@BraxxJuventa]

I agree on a bendover tip is better than no tip. 👍😁

[@houseblacksmithing9836]

I don't care about any of the knives in the video. No dog in this fight, but the first knife was much thinner than the second one. And I imagine the fact that the point broke so quickly is also a sign that it will hold an edge much longer than the one that bent without breaking. You trade a quality here for one over there..

[@glbwoodsbum2567]

Personally I wish more knives were made of simple carbon steels like 1095, 1075, and 01.

[@glbwoodsbum2567]

@Semper Skeptical lol cheaper and easier to sharpen than the modern supersteels

[@ssunfish]

Make them!

[@glbwoodsbum2567]

@@ssunfish Always a possibility but I would still rather have more choices on the market in those steels for good working outdoor knives.

[@ssunfish]

@@glbwoodsbum2567 this is true

[@ogarzabello]

I bet you do NOT live in a tropical area...

[@morisboeuf]

Lilly what is the use of doing what you are doing to these knives. In what situation would you use a knife like that in real life? In my opinion not it is not a good comparison. However the AUS8 steel seem to be tougher but it could also be that the tip geometry of your design is better for that test when compared to the Falkniven. Tip thickness, geometry, hardness all have a deciding effect on its ability to withstand extreme stress on the tip. Anyhow your knife looks good and performs well. Thumbs up for that.

[@DBS123]

The ability to bend may keep you from breaking.... in many ways... to fight or love another day.

[@lyronixone4567]

little question.... where in this video is a super steel knife?.... vg10 is a shit steel and the tip is 10 times smaler then the other blade... in fact: both knifes that you show there are shit.... and a super steel is a powdered steel like Elmax or s90v .... try this and it will change ur life.... and dont talk more bulls...

[@super66craig]

Harder is not better! It's only for specialty uses that skilled users are well informed of. For instance I use chisels in my trade as a stone mason that have Tungsten Carbide edges imbedded inn them for precise cutting very quickly . If i try to use the corner or do not seat the whole edge squarely they will chip the corner or chip a peice off the middle. I know their limitations, use and exceptional abilities over carbon steel. The same goes with what these super steel knives are actually designated. They are edge only knives for rendering game or carving wood. Not an EDC, Camp knife, multipurpose etc.. Like my chisels they excel at their designed work and rarely need sharpening. 01, AUS8, and 1095 are examples of all purpose utility with a huge buffer of misuse tolerance. Its just common sense and economics that have already made super steel knives go the way of ceramic knives as just pure novelty knives that are impractical for field use.

[@thomassmith8314]

Agreed. I think the super steel market is really just a response to demanding customers who want harder, stronger and "better' steels. Metal types have a broad spectrum for specific purposes. A "mid-grade" steel like AUS8 is a nice compromise for an 'all purpose' knife.

[@johnj.petersoniii9617]

Seems like you guys are nitpicking about the way she uses that knife and that she is abusing all the others... It's a destruction test! That test is to see if certain ares of the knife are weak. EVERY knife person does these tests. And the tip test is for things like I use my knife for worms and clams, sometimes there is a rock underneath. It's nice to know her knife can handle it. Good Vid Lilly And thank you

[@Cynocehali]

That's an awesome coat! Classy Lumberjack! Oh yeah, steels... 1075 HC for me please. Condor tool & knife anyone?

[@bbesa6350]

Steel hardness and softness depends on heat treatment. It is not "AUS 8 ist not that hard, you can't break it" and it is not some other steel that is prone to chipping. You can heat treat AUS 8 so that it will be very hard and it will break if bent and you can heat treat any other tool or high chromium steel so that it will be quite soft and will not hold an edge very long. To say "I rather want a blade that won't break" is a point but it is not the steel, it is the heat treatment. The question could be wether a steel can be extremely hard and tough at the same time. If you would look for those steels, AUS 8 would definitely not among them.

[@jn3750]

Scientific tests reveal that AUS 8 is mediocre at best in terms of toughness and edge retention, nor is VG10, compared to other modern super steels. Anecdotal experience is meaningless, Lilly.

[@JohnB-dr8sk]

Oh whatever dude. Scientists don't go out into the field and test knives. Search & Rescue Teams do, and they love "cheap" AUS8 and 1095 steel SRKs and similar blades. Guys like you who never spend time in the forest beyond a day hike wouldn't know this.

[@jn3750]

@@JohnB-dr8sk If they had used (had the resources to buy the high end stuff - most do not, on a large scale it would be too expensive) the super steels they would not want to go back to the older, but good, 1095 and/or AUS8. In controlled tests (even in the field), we can see that CPM 3V, 4V, Cruware...outperform the 1095/AUS8 in every metric.

[@JohnB-dr8sk]

@@jn3750 3V is really good and is an improvement over the older steels. But it is just too expensive for most working people to afford. An AUS8 blade will do almost everything 3V will do at a far cheaper price. 3V and the like are for people with above average incomes. It is a luxury, not a neccessity. If the price came down to AUS8 levels, then I would agree. But it won't because it's more labor intensive to machine.

[@jn3750]

@@JohnB-dr8sk Id only consider 3v or similar steels for survival scenarios as they have 3-10 times the edge retention and 2-5 times the toughness of the old steels

[@JohnB-dr8sk]

@@jn3750 If you know how to touch up your blade in the field, then it really doesn't matter to have crazy edge retention. It is so easy I don't even think about it. That's why 3V is just a luxury to me. I guess if you have little to no wilderness and knife sharpening experience, and you have the money, then 3V is probably the way to go.

[@georgeb9408]

Besides another point: if there is a survival situation, you have to take care of your knife as much as possible, and not to use as a pry bar. This whole concept proves that actually you are inexperienced in survival, and your channel is built on some fake survivalism.

[@ShelleyRaskin]

Hi Lilly, I am a knife maker and a knife sharpener, so congratulations on making a knife (never knock someone else’s knife). But I think you will find that heat treatment and edge geometry is more important than the type of steel used, and vg10 is not really a super steel, it’s more suited to kitchen knives. If you are going to broaden your base then I would recommend O1 and s35vn, both very good steels one a super steel (powder steel is a better term), and one probably the best carbon steel around, just out a disclaim about rust into your O1 knives.

[@kodlcan]

Indeed. Well said. Thank you.

[@dennisleighton2812]

How would you rate Cold Steel's San Mai III steel, especially with a convex grind? I have heard it performs very well compared to the Falkniven steels, which have a similar construction? I have a Trial Master and it is an awesome knife, but, NO I do not intend "testing it to destruction"! I buy and use knives for their intended purpose, or failing that, to use them with consideration and care (like I would a firearm).

[@jeanducheamps7697]

Bla, bla, bla, bla...a lot of excuses for using a secondary steel for your own knife. Should have done more research

[@lindaclark5911]

I don't want to bash knives,,,, bashes knives. Bahahaha. Who treats a knife like that? It's always been the "fear" with every knive, losing the tip with reckless usage.

[@SurvivalLilly]

:D

[@lindaclark5911]

You are the best Lily! Keep up the great work! Your hair looks beautiful! Where'd you get the green jacket? Is it wool or fleese? Could you do a video on best fibers/fabrics for survival? Wool, fleece,down,silk,cotton. I would love and appreciate hearing what works best for you in freezing conditions. Try silk longjohns,they're lite wt&warm. No freezing buns off, you need those to sit around on LOL THANKYOU😀😁😃😊

[@pierremarcjette7412]

She was testing the knives....

[@lindaclark5911]

pierre marc Jette really? I totally missed the forward , psa...testing testing, this is only a tick check🤗😎😋😍😄😃😂😀😲 any and all grubs dug in this video were eaten immediately, ticks on the other hand, had any been found, got bashed. Something always smells funny somewhere lol just trying 2 hard 2 🐝funny🐴 i can count on 1 hand knives whose tip broke off? U?2?

[@lindaclark5911]

pierre marc Jette she's testy bahahaha & so am 👁 1 match>》})] No match Out Side Da 🎁 In survival situations i occasionaly divert into humor thankyou 4 humoring me U2 it is a blessing and a curse no match.

[@jpavlvs]

Lilly I love your videos that said you're Horribly hard on your knives. No knife or steel in the world will hold up to the punishment you give it. Even your excellent knife will fail with the abuse. You really need to start thinking of an axe or hatchet to do what you're asking your knives to do. Keep up the videos. I'm looking forward to a axe or hatchet test.

[@BuzzGordon]

I agree in your choice of Aus 8 steel Lilly. That and 420HC are what my go to camp knifes are made out of. Both are tough but super easy to sharpen, plus high in chromium so they're stainless. I've gone on countless camping trips and never had a problem with either of these steels. Call me a cheap ass, I don't care lol. But I'd rather replace my Gerber Prodigy straight edge that I bought as a Walmart exclusive for $49.00 than some Bark River / Fallkniven for $200.

[@jamescooper2618]

Buck knives makes many of their knives with 420HC and their knives are great. Aus8 is a great steel. It's all in the heat treat.

[@richregan8911]

Buzz, you are right on. I really like my 420HC knives also for the same reasons as you. I prefer my Buck 420HC over my Bark River 3V.

[@lnwolf41]

Maybe try folding the 2 steels together, get the toughness of supersteel, but also the durability of the aus8 steels. If you use the Japanese method of layering different thicknesses of clay along the blade, when you quench it , it causes the blade to produce hard, yet flexible steel

[@bigweatherby]

I don't mind touching an edge up a little more frequently. When the chips are down, I want a tough knife. Good choice!

[@j.t.cooper2963]

Better than that overpriced POS-1 AUS8 you are peddling.

[@loveebay2758]

You have make your brand and sell them on shopify you will make million dollars every year. I made 6 million last year (2018) from outdoor tools. You have a channel you need just fb ad conversion ( purchase) good luck

[@spost26]

love ebay she should take clips from this video for ads. Love the "sorry, not bent". Great stuff

[@bruce-qm5fl]

Well done. I'm with you on this. AUS 8 and 1095 are all you need in the woods. Plus whatever carbon Mora uses. They sharpen easily and don't chip . I hate a knife that chips. I also think that some of the so called super steels are more suited to smaller skinning knives and folders.

[@olafschermann1592]

I appreciate that you made an objective comparison as an answer to the bashing like vid of those two boys. You didn’t use names as they did. I have to give you my full Respekt for being such a strong character. I used to watch these boy‘s vids a lot but was very disappointed seeing their critiquefull broadcasting. Maybe they where just angry because you dethroned their favorite toy with the facts that you delivered using the S1 (or A1) in your practical experience. But I got really sad in reading the commends there. Shame on me that I didn‘t write such words over there. But it is pointless to discuss with a supremacy of fanboys. They should continue to breed bark river fanboys and you should continue to show us useful things to do in the woods. Thank you for all your content and continue your work and enjoying time in the woods.

[@laciihasz4734]

@Chrly Ray ,,. Lilly goes to the point and it's just her, not some sponsor's agenda.'' really? she is sponsored by many companies, but most importantly she is sponsoring her own product. she runs her channel as a business to make money out of it.

[@laciihasz4734]

@Chrly Ray lilly is not biased? yeah right:)

[@lesliedetrick8964]

Those 2 boys put it to the test it failed

[@lesliedetrick8964]

@Chrly Ray when ever knife in the world fails. It's not an honest review it put my Mora up against it any day

[@lindaclark5911]

Olaf Schermann well said.

[@howardvarley8795]

Sick of hearing about how great 3V is, I paid a fortune to import a B.R. Aurora in 3V. The edge didnt last 5 minutes and now it wont cut sh*t. Ive spent hours trying to get an edge back on it but all it does is chew up my sharpening stones. And before some clever know all comes on saying learn how to sharpen I have no problem with my Ray Mears knives, my Fallkniven, my Helles, my Bayleyknife or even my SRK - all of which I can shave with. Stick your supersteels I want a knife I can resharpen with a DC4,..in the field!

[@joeysknivesnpuukkosfinland4337]

Yes the sharpening problem with supersteels is a real issue. You need to buy a diamond plate for knife blades that have a hrc over 60. Under 60 hrc you can use wet stones. Another tip is to make knives or buy them with 80crv2 tool steel blades. 80crv2 edge retention is quite similar with CPM 3V but 80crv2 is tougher and easier to field sharpen. The corrosion resistance is better with 3V. 80crv2 does require maintenance.

[@natelenz8595]

Lily: I'm going to curl over the tip of my knife. Lily's knife: Yeah, SURE you are.

[@robertherek4020]

Haters are always going to hate, and the more you use facts and testing to prove the haters wrong the harder they are going to hate. I truly am sorry for the hate you've recieved about your knife and the steel you chose to use. I'm old enough to remeber when swiss army knives were all the rage for boy scouts and all the carving and what not we did with them, And let's be honest they ain't top of the list of best steels out there. The choice of steel in a knife comes down to 2 choices strength and flexibility. Maybe I'm odd but I've never seen meat cleavers or axes made from flexible steels. These are designed for chopping. A good knife you are going to bet your life on should be flexible its more forgiving. And I'm a survival situation forgiving is a HUGE bonus. I have a ton of respect that you went out, and took the chance on designing and marketing your own knife. Unlike some big name so called survivor experts, you've taken the risk, not allowing a big name company to slap your name on one of there designs. In the military 1095 carbon blades were very common and trusted. And that is again no where near a so called super steel. You've made a name for yourself and gained the following you have by being yourself, and choosing the path you walk, there will always be those who will hate because you break what they consider a mold. Best knife I ever owned was the SRK with the carbon V steel and I bet my life on it many times. I honestly will most likely never truly need another knife, lol . I doubt I'll live long enough to truly put the ones I have to the test as is, but when I have the extra cash I will be picking up one of your APO 1s if for no other reason then to support someone I have respect for.

[@robg521]

Hi Lilly, I noticed a couple of certain individuals running down your new knife recently, and In this vid to carried out the very same destruction tests and gave detailed reason as to why the knife is designed this way. It performed exactly as it is designed to do.... so that IS NOT a failure. (And it was also Extremely well explained, thank you) ....... You are completely open as to how your new knife will perform, which is refreshingly candid and honest. Anyone thinking of acquiring one of yours can make an informed decision to if it meets their needs so that's perfect. 👍 ....... You have integrity which is quite rare these days, so thank you for being that too. 😀

[@MindIessGuy]

Grind your knife like the first one you use and your tip would break just as easily. Different grinds, and thicknesses (yours) are a factor you didn’t address. I get it, it might be a bad knife, they are out there, regardless of the steel. If it’s made poorly you will get bad results, but comparing a knife that is thicker, and is ground better for those tasks you will get the same results each time.

[@SurvivalLilly]

Nope it is not, here is the proof where I show a prototype of my APO-1 with hollow grind and very thin tip. It bend over, It did not break: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYbEoqp_oKiLepo AUS8 is tough it bends rather than breaking

[@waveman0]

I agree with your choice of aus-8, it is a great steel and is a proven performer. With that being said I also believe the likes of 3V (you can get the SRK in 3V) or san mai (again you can get the SRK in this steel) would perform just as well as aus-8 toughness wise and give even better edge retention. 3V is renowned for its toughness, I have seen youtube vids of people batoning cinder blocks with 3V knives and them not breaking.

[@robertherek4020]

Tho of you look at the price of 3v steel knives, you have to wonder what such would cost for someone like Lilly to have produced and what she would have to charge her fans for the knife. I like 3v but even big name knife companies have to charge a decent amount and they have them produced on a large scale. Logically it would more exspensive for someone like Lilly with the order amounts being so much smaller

[@robertherek4020]

@PESTIL3NCE but these are from big or well known knife companys where they have large orders for there knife productions. Even taking into account maybe a small percentage of them are in the 3v steel, they still have thousands of knives being produced so there costs to produce will naturally be cheaper do to the shear number of knives there are having produced. For someone like Lilly the cost is always going to be higher for production since the number of knives being ordered or so much smaller. Also keep in mind of cold steel, buck, benchmade or any of the others end up producing knives that don't sell they don't risk or losing everything. For someone like Lilly it's a risk to not only sell but to have a hand in designing a knife of her own. Lilly felt the need to come out and defend her choice of steel to rebuke the steel snobs. I've never seen in my 46 years any knife manufacturers have to defend there choices. Hell Bear Grills (sp) has never had to come out and defend the rather unimpressive steels Gerber has used with some of the knives that his name is on. But again I remember when most outdoor knives commonly found were not much different then the 440 stainless types of steel. AUS 8 isn't a bad steel choice. No not the best steel out there, but I still have and routinely use field type knives I either bought or had bought for me from the mid to late 80s when I did scouts. I agree 3V is a dang good steel and would be a better choice but I'm willing to bet that raise the price not only for Lilly to have to knives made not the price she would have to charge but Quite a bit. And from what I've read she gets enough heat for what she's charging already

[@robertherek4020]

@PESTIL3NCE don't get me wrong I love my Cold Steel blades tho I haven't bought any other then there mini hunter since the offers the 3v steel and made in Taiwan. And I am happy with the new mini hunter. I would imagine tho that of sue did move up to 3v for her steel she'd get alot more hate over the price she'd have to charge.

[@49giants3]

Bob Herek the Benchmade puukko is $125 made out of 3v

[@robertherek4020]

@@49giants3 I do realize that there are rather inexpensive knives with the 3v steel. My point is that these are big name companys who make and sell thousands of knives per year, and I'm really low balling that number. For them to mass produce knives for a inexpensive price is pretty easy. For someone like Lilly with very limited production runs of her knife the price is naturally going to be higher than a mass producing knife company. Lilly is taking a risk ,like Any youtuber, by designing and producing her own knife. Best of my knowledge there is no big name knife companies backing or producing her knife for her. As I have not yet had the opportunity to purchase her knife I can only go by reviews I've seen , and her knife seems to be pretty decent. Better then many knives that carry a bug name survival show guys name mass produce from a big name knife company. Yes there are better steels, and yes you can find good knives cheaper, that's not the point. Buying a APO 1 is supporting a youtuber and her channel. No one seems to think hundred plus bucks on a Esse is outrageous for a 1095 carbon steel which is far from a super steel. I'm not bashing 1095 I own a good number of knives in that steel. Yet you can get a okc rat style knife in same steel for alot less. Just dont understand the hate Lilly gets for her steel choice. Maybe the haters should step up take the risk, design there own knife, put up a stake to risk there Name and money on there knife, risk even more by choosing the so called super steel and see how it goes.

[@mihalyhorvath2617]

I dont know why the title of the video is what it is because there is no super steel in this video. Neither Vg10 or ous 8 are super steels. And super steels can be tought as well. Steels dont have to be soft in order not to break. And misstreating a knife like that should never be done.

[@SurvivalLilly]

Vg 10 was considered a supersteel 10 years ago. Look up the knife forums. But apparently now there are even more super super steels out there, so some people say vg10 is not a super steel anymore.

[@Trumplican]

its impossible to get good edge retention and not have a brittle steel. I like AUS 8 because its not super hard but if you design the edge correctly it will still retain well and the blade doesn't chip or break at the tip. Great choice in steel Lilly!

[@TheOtherBill]

It's not impossible, it's just very expensive do it in a stainless steel. By switching to a carbon steel you can do it for much less money, but most people don't want, or know how, to care for them.

[@Trumplican]

@@TheOtherBill you can't have the best of both worlds. some can get close especially by wrapping a thin hard steel center with a softer outer layer of steel but no matter what steel has its weaknesses and you cant make a steel that has all the good qualities and none of the bad.

[@Trumplican]

@@P_RO_ i have better things to do than sit here and debate knives. its its just the properties of steel its either soft and bendable or hard and brittle. ya there are some extreme examples but ultimately there is no knife that will succeed in every aspect. not even a Randall.

[@Ed-xl2sc]

@@Trumplican elmax 😉

[@georgeb9408]

You are missing only one point: VG10 is NOT a super steel, it is rather in the mid-range. You should try CoS or Elmax.

[@nils-ph3zs]

...and she took the fällkniven with the thinnest tip ever.

[@samwilliams5283]

My favorite steel is 1095 with the proper temper.

[@ve7vie]

My Schrade Frontier SCHF52 uses 1095 and is almost indestructible. And it is about $35. But it is heavy and big at 13".

[@greekveteran2715]

@Fight ForFreedom2019 BK2 is not 1095. Ka-bar has changed the name of the steel,because many people (that don't know much about knives,ask for 1095.) Ka'bars steel is closer to O1 tool steel properties rather than 1095.Holds it's edge longer and is more difficult to chip.1095 is not so good as people claim it is.That's my personal experience about these steels.

[@greekveteran2715]

@Fight ForFreedom2019 Ka-Bar Steel:1095 Cro Van or 1095cv,isn't the real name of that steel The steel that is used by Ka-bar , is Sharon 170-06 or SAE alloy 50100B (AISI designation) Which is between 1095 and O1,closer to O1s characteristics rather than 1095,

[@DIRager]

I think you should (just for a fair comparison) say that the fällkniven s1 tip is much thinner than the tip of your Apo1. I know vg10 is a hard steel and will rather break than bend but the tip of the s1...just want to say...is really thin. I would love to see you testing the Tops knives B.O.B. in 154cm steel (its a real beast). Have a nice day :)

[@SurvivalLilly]

Thanks for your comment. Please watch this video where I test a prototype in AUS8 which has a very thin tip, thinner than the S1 I broke: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYbEoqp_oKiLepo

[@DIRager]

@@SurvivalLilly thanks for your answer lilly :) Didn't know you had a video about that. But its nice to see different opinions in the world of steels. Are you interested in the pro series of fällkniven? I can tell you that the tip is much better (thicker) and is is overall (the s1pro) a very versatile knife. Good for batoning, feathersticking, chopping and it gets scary sharp. Best wishes from me :)

[@martyoutdoors6172]

I'm very very very sorry but, why don't you try out the CoS steel again from Fällkniven ???? The CoS steel or "Cobalt Steel" is the thoughest stainless steel on planet earth which has 60 HRC (crazy hard!!) holds an edge for a very long time, is unbeatable. I agree about the vg 10, it is a shit steel which is for me a a piece of a crap, it chips the edge after a couple of times battoning hard oak and so on, not good steel, AUS 8 is better but not better then CoS if you want you can try it out for you're self and make a tip test with CoS steel, it will never ever break like the VG 10, and also it will not bend. Nice vid BTW, hope i see you test out the CoS steel, have a nice day ;-)

[@SurvivalLilly]

thanks for the tip, but CoS is a little bit too expensive for my taste, and I think only a handful of customers will buy it because most people do not have the money for a 400 Euro knife

[@martyoutdoors6172]

@@SurvivalLilly np

[@martyoutdoors6172]

@@SurvivalLilly you are a nice person, i don't force you to buy it or to test it out, no, just a simple question 😉 PS: Is the apo 1 going to be able in CoS steel, should i expect or not ?? Thanks

[@247tubefan]

What's the price of that blade?

[@martyoutdoors6172]

@@247tubefan F1 pro : 340€ S1 pro : 400€ CoS steel 👍 A1 pro : 490€ Regular ones: F1 : 145€ S1 : 190€ VG10 STEEL 👎 A1 : 240€ Link where to buy : www.knivesandtools.co.uk/

[@alexgreat4166]

How about 14c28 steel ? it's stailess and very tough .. edge retantion is close to 1095 steel . Works great in Mora Garberg knife .

[@johnbesmith4094]

Lilly your awesome.. keep it up

[@alaskaraftconnection-alask3397]

Lots of folks (and unfortunately the ever increasing trend of armchair experts) find issues in regards to AUS-8. I have personally and professionally experienced good, balanced results. Most knives I use in AUS-8 are reliable, everyday mild to wild, take pretty much everywhere. In other words... AUS-8 has not let me down and my expectations do not deal with hype or downplay. Here, you were obviously going for corrosion resistance choosing a stainless steel. Two other factors come to mind: 1.) All conditions balance, stability 2.) Grindability ie. tune-ups prefered over utmost edge retention hardenability. AUS-8 is actually a fine choice for good reasoning & not considering price point differences of 'super-steels' vs. widely accepted as good enough alloys. Often critics with little understanding do not see the composition traits. Ingredients and percentages of Cr, Mo, V, Ni, Mn, Si, & P are balanced. Higher Ni + much higher Si providing the inherent qualities you are likely seeking (thus experiencing results) that many other compositions do not entail. Over the years, I have given my thumbs up applause with your progression as well as helpful 'keep it in check' content when needing a nudge (lol - like your fishing). I'd say if/when possible to obtain... something like CTS-XHP = a very good fit suiting the 'upgrade so to speak'. Then believe it or not; try a more budget version super reliable spring temper tool steel variant in SK5. Look for example what Cold Steel has reputably accomplished with the 1055 GI Tanto and the SK5 Bushman. I'd enjoy testing both versions here at Alaska Raft Connection or have you up on a float trip to test. River environments, rafting/kayaking, fishing, and remote wilderness are best of outdoor test zones. I do not see a whole lot of real-world reasoning to go 'super steels' in small batches unless you can piggyback on a manufacturer's stock well in advance. Besides, that could become a warranty claim nightmare based on long term identical product availability anyway. Hope all is well in your camp.

[@cyberlizardcouk]

well spoken. the customer is not always right, sometimes they are idiots.

[@jdegreef]

Which one is better to kill a man, ooooops, a bear ? Who is stupid enough to try to break his knife in a real survival situation ? Your test is not representing real survival situation.

[@ReasonAboveEverything]

Because i don't want to spend 30 minutes sharpening my knife with a pocket stone when it gets dull outdoors.

[@sodeepopkid6855]

Just buy an inexpensive steel rod to touch up your edge.

[@WhiteDean45]

Or spend no time sharpening..because its still sharp. But I understand where you are coming from.

[@ReasonAboveEverything]

Dean45 Well, i use my knife a lot and if i spend more than one day outdoors the edge will get noticeable more dull. I do lot of woodcrafting and continuous twisting and scraping in tight angles will get the edge dull no matter how epic the steel is.

[@WhiteDean45]

@@ReasonAboveEverything I find that hard to believe unless the steel has poor edge retention. If you're prepared enough to have pocket stones I don't see why you couldn't have a pocket diamond stone.

[@ReasonAboveEverything]

Dean45 One hour of heavy use will dull any knife. That is just my experience. I prefer to use 1000 grit stone and strop. If i use my F1 i need more stones, coarser stones. I want to use one stone and my belt. I don't want to carry set of pocket stones. This also the reason i dislike Skandinavian grinds. Too much metal to remove.

[@LearnTheLandScandinavia]

VG-10 is not a super steel

[@dashengquan]

Exactly

[@MakersMovementDIY]

Type of steel, handle shape and all other aspects of a knife come down to a balance of compromises. Learn how you use a knife and where you can and cannot compromise.

[@youtubevoice1050]

Very well said. Purpose and function should dictate the most important choices in knife design and ultimately compromises are unavoidable.

[@MakersMovementDIY]

@@youtubevoice1050 Absolutely, all knife designs are a ballance of compromises. That is exactly why there is no "one knife" or "perfect knife" and I say this as a knife maker and designer, not just an everyday user.

[@shihab5060]

Apo1 has handle and sheath that are better than fallknivn

[@ssunfish]

@@shihab5060 really? Thats great!

[@ssunfish]

@@MakersMovementDIY wise perspective. Respect!

[@-LiveFreeorDie]

You're exactly right, the tip is arguably the most important part of your blade, only because it is the only part of the blade that can perform these important stabbing functions. And this is exactly why you should in under no circumstance use the technique you used in the video in the field, on any knife. Come up with a different method to dig through wood, such as stabbing a dozen or so times in the intended area before making your prying motion as to further weaken the integrity of the wood. No matter how tough your steel is you should be doing everything you can to give the knife the advantage, and to avoid damaging the tool that is keeping you alive. Also the chances are if the wood is hard enough to snap off your tip that it won't really be saturated with grubs anyhow, not being dead enough. Find a softer and more dead downed tree, and take more care in "feeling" while you perform that function. Not haphazardly stabbing as hard as you can and quickly bending the steel in its weakest direction. Of course a knives steel should be tough, your point was not missed. But this doesn't excuse abusing your blade that your life may or may not depend on. That VG-10 would last multiple lifetimes of hard use in the field without unnecessary/thoughtless abuse.

[@nils-ph3zs]

THIS MAN SPEAKS THE TRUTH !!! exactly my opinion aswell

[@SurvivalLilly]

Sorry but what is the tip for if I cant use it?

[@nils-ph3zs]

@@SurvivalLilly well, everything except prying. There are tons of things you can do with the tip other than these destructive tasks. And I have seen you perform a great deal of these precision tasks so I don't understand why you are asking this??

[@-LiveFreeorDie]

@@SurvivalLilly It was never even suggested that you *couldn't* use it. What I said was to not *abuse* it, which was done in this video. I gave a thorough explanation of what I was saying in my original post. Stabbing your tip as hard as physically possible into dense hardwood and quickly torquing the blade in it's weakest direction is nothing short of senseless abuse that would break any blade. I don't say this with no experience, either. I'm a long time survivalist/bushcrafter, and a Mechanical Engineer that is certified in metallurgy. I am very familiar with the technical limitations of different metal compositions. Like I said, being a bit more careful and not using so much force, this is a doable task. Also, you will NEVER find a significant amount of grubs in wood that hard anyhow, so the abusive task will be fruitless either way. Find softer more decomposed wood to root around in. You'll actually be able to find the grubs you're looking for, and won't break your sole lifeline in the process.

[@andresarregui3417]

@@-LiveFreeorDie Great comment Jordan. I don´t understand why she insists in trying to demonstrate something misusing the knife. Her knife tip (in another video) bended like crazy in the first try. Would never say her knife is useless or bad quality, it was misused.

[@knurled1]

Aus 8 is way too soft.

[@glbwoodsbum2567]

It can be made as hard or as soft as the maker would like. This is true of any Steel.

[@knurled1]

@@glbwoodsbum2567 That comment makes no sense.

[@glbwoodsbum2567]

@@knurled1AUS8 can be 55hrc or 60hrc, for example. It depends how hard the maker wants to make it. AUS8 can be made harder then what kabar hardens their 1095 Steel to. In essence your original statement was the one that didn't make sense. LOL

[@knurled1]

@@glbwoodsbum2567 Every steel has an ideal HRC, that's why we have different steels for different applications. Aus8 is cheap and too soft for an outdoor knife.

[@glbwoodsbum2567]

@@knurled1 Well that's like, ya know, your opinion man.

[@rangerjonoutdoors6429]

Yes. Yes they are. Give me a hunk of Aus8 for 5 minutes. I'll get it to chip on something that 3v of the same Rockwell won't. Still enjoy the videos! Rock on. 🤘🔥

[@paladinsmith7050]

Stainless steel is the best for outdoors imo.

[@VicariousReality7]

Define best

[@steelasura]

So ill just make a survival knife out of mild steel because itll just bend instead of break? Honestly i have never had a good experience with aus 8, camillus, cold steel, doesnt matter brand, cut 2-3 cardboard boxes and its dull, 154cm and up from now on

[@chibbi0382]

Yeah also Lilly's APO1 is AUS8 and apparently it dulls coming out the sheath. (Fallkniven f1 master race)

[@lwrii1912]

Nice move in offering your knife in different steels. You also made it clear that AUS 8 was your preferred steel, but you understand that other people have the right to be wrong, lol. Well done.

[@stretch1151]

I don't think it was a fair comparison of knifes steels when two entirely different knife designs were used in the test. Lily, your knife has a thick spine that is carried almost to the point where the SI has tapered spine. Also the Si has a Trailing Swage point and your knife has a more of a drop point. So your video showed that the lighter weight knife tip was not as durable as a beefier knife tip and doesn't address the composition of the steel or it's hardening process.

[@SurvivalLilly]

Here is a destruction test I made with an AUS8 prototype, it got an even thinner tip than the S1 tested in this video, and look what happened: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYbEoqp_oKiLepo

[@ve7vie]

Yes.Test one knife like the SRK with all the steels availaible.

[@AG.Floats]

lol aus-8 is crap. All my super steels don't chip or lose a tip... Can get a 3V Benchmade puukko for $110 I've never had my s30v or 3v or M4 knife chip even when doing hard wood battoning or lose a tip. You just trying to sell your knife lol. Oh and VG10 is not a super steel.

[@johnnyyukon7887]

I have used AUS8 for a long time, easy to sharpen, doesn’t chip, great for a bush knife. Been a big fan of yours for a long time Lilly, keep up the good work.

[@zoroutdoor9]

A good carbon steel has some advantages and maybe a super steel as you say, should not break or bend in a normal use. Try cpm3v. The theory that it is better to bend, instead of breaking, is certainly true, but it is still a failure. At least is a failure in the choice of heat treatments, if not steel itself and geometries. Of course I always speak of a normal and legitimate use for that knife. Classic example: the esee, especially in large models, that are hardened low on the rockwell scale to avoid breakage, but too low to risk bending in use. And I can guarantee that it had happened. A knife designed to bend and remain folded is a mistake, even if it remains usable. A fold in the middle of the blade is almost impossible to fix., the tip that goes left or right, like a flag, is a failure. A good knife with good heat treatment, gemetry, bevel and steel should'n t bent and should'n t break. That's actually a fact. That said everyone has his own preferences, on everything, knives and steel included, very true. A real super steel, or the latest generation is certainly not the aus8 ne vg10. San mai does'n t mean super steel. Surely a super rapid or a sinterizated fall into the category. All cpm of the crucible are sinterizated for example. In my humble opinion, for what it's worth, lily has a great survival experience and a poor knives experience. And, as they say in Italy, you should not ask the Innkeeper if the wine is good.

[@247tubefan]

A chipped edge is better than a rolled edge because if you bend it back straight it will be weaker after, so you will need to make a new edge anyway. A harder steel will be more durable. Also a chipped edge will still cut better like a saw then a rolled useless edge.

[@SurvivalLilly]

at this point I can only agree to disagree. but I think everyone should be entitled to his opinion so I respect your view although I do not agree with it

[@247tubefan]

@@SurvivalLilly: Actually Lilly I do agree with you if the roll is slight & not so bad it can be easily fixed but if it is severely rolled (like on your rock abuse test) you can't just bend it back. Actually, yes you can bend it back but it will be weaker. So to be strong like new again you will have to grind a new edge.

[@aidans4866]

Who is this? Looks like Survival Lilly but she didnt introduce herself as she normally does? I akways look forward to the cute "its me Lilly" ..🤓 ..

[@aidans4866]

That made my day 😁 im a huge fan Lilly

[@BushCampingTools]

Bending the tip back can induce "cold work hardening", the next time it may break when excessive load applied. Tips of well heat treated and well designed knives should not deform permanently but should have some flexibility and return after the deformation force has ceased. (some manufactures actually perform bending tests (in a "laboratory" where forces can be controlled and items tested in a scientific manner in order to meet stringent QC).There will be a point of deformation which will result in failure. That point of deformation where failure occurs will depend upon many factors - not just the loading. Commercially produced (not heat treated by hand) blades will not be able to be differentially heat treated, not mass produced anyway, too costly at present. Personally, I have found that AUS8 of course, when heat treated correctly for the design of the knife, will provide a good useful blade, resistant to seawater immersion (although not a "dive knife steel") and can hold a very good edge, either flat bevel or convexed. Personally I hate the term "Super steels" it's simply marketing hype of course. The so called super steels, if incorrectly heat treated will also fail just as well as say 1095 poorly heat treated. Many "super steels" are made not for knives but for milling cutters, where impact is not encountered and or lubricants are used for tooling and long lasting in frequent tool changes are required in order to keep production at it's maximum rate(s). Lastly, I think we get hung up with this edge retention thing. The edge retention is not quantifiable for the users of out door cutting tools in the field. It is only quantifiable in the laboratory environment. So this means that different people and different environments and different objects which are being cut, will of course be the variation, which is actually "personal variation" A lot of edge retention data is of course done will milling tools by the steel manufacturers and not (usually) with knives as they are not the next users in line, ie the cutlery manufacturers.

[@Eldofarmboy]

I hate super steels in the field. 1095, AUS 8 SK5, 420HC, and N690 are my favorite field steels

[@SurvivalLilly]

imho it really depends on the purpose of the knife, a small carving knife or hunting knife is great in a supersteel

[@Eldofarmboy]

I like them on my EDC knives where I might spend hours cutting down boxes, hoses, etc. In the woods I like to be able to strop it back up or make a few passes on my field sharpener and have it razor sharp again. We all have our preferences though. I had to turn off comments on my APO-1 videos. I was the first other than you to test and review it and even put it toe to toe with the AUS 8 SRK. Lots of bashing trolling comments on it for the AUS 8 and being made in Taiwan and lots of people cussing so I shut down comments because I try to keep everything family friendly. Personally I love the APO-1! Well done on the design!

[@ve7vie]

I think that N690 is better than the others you mention, and I have them all.

[@Eldofarmboy]

@@ve7vie I do enjoy N690 and I also own knives in all the steels I mentioned but personally I go for 1095 most of the time because Esee

[@Ubermentsh]

I truly love this design and understand why you chose a aus-8. It's the price I'm hung up on. Especially for a knife that's manufactured in Taiwan using Japanese steel.🤔

[@NewMessage]

"It's not bent over.. I'm sorry." When you have to apologize because your knife is so good, you know you're selling the right one.