ARB Dual Compressor Simple Wiring

The wiring loom that comes standard with the ARB compressor is suited for those who want to run air lockers, but for those who do not, its a single wire system, you can cut away the noise.

[@helix_helix]

About to install. This has given me confidence to put my ARB switch and power harnesses under the knife for a neat setup - thanks for explaining. This was EXACTLY the info I needed 🤙

[@wai4wd]

Glad it helped. Good luck with the install.

[@oggyoggy1299]

Thank you. I bought the dual ARB compressor and will mount it under the bonnet in a Prado where there’s space left for a dual battery (Pirate Camp make a bracket for the installation, complete with mount for the switch and air out). I couldn’t believe all the crap that came hanging off the loom. I thought surely there has to be an easier way to get power to this thing, since it’ll all be under the bonnet. I look forward to throwing all that extra wiring in the bin 👍

[@wai4wd]

Yer, I think ARB could honestly keep all the crap to themselves and just make the loom plug and play compatible IF a person was buying air lockers too.

[@stoedg]

Thanks a lot for sharing, really helpful! I was mesmerized by the cable clutter of the original ARB for my simple install, and this was the solution I was looking for. Cheers, mate!

[@79VALHAL]

Yep.. this worked a treat.. just did this morning and reused the ARB provided switch as well. Did not bother with lights on it.. but anyways, got it working and discarded the factory wiring harness.. good stuff and thank you!

[@wai4wd]

Welcome mate. Really glad it helped you.

[@uncledougiecampboss8382]

Thanks for this video. I needed to wire to an up-fitter switch in my Ford F250 and had no need for the other wires as well. I had to splice in about 7ft (2.1m) of additional gauge so the "tip" on keeping the lengths equal was very helpful as well. I'll but you a pint when I see ya!

[@79VALHAL]

Will give this a crack tomorrow morning as I have been battling getting the bigger arb harness to work today.. but in wanting to keep it simple and tidy, this is the way to go. Just have to find the terminal connections on the ARB switch as I want to use that to turn the compressor on/off. ;-) Thanks for making this video..

[@heritageroofer]

Thanks mate! Absolute pearla of a instructional video. This just simplified my installation 100 fold!

[@wai4wd]

Glad it helped.

[@ouwsfadil9044]

Mate this the best instructions ever seen thanks for your help great video mate .

[@wai4wd]

Really glad it helped.

[@jamiefagan3430]

Thanks for that. So as I understand it, all that’s needed is 12v source post ignition to the switch. I’m thinking to use a fuse tap and utilise the accessory fuse box on my Hilux. Power then flows through the switch via purple wire and the diode which triggers the relay in compressor. I will mounting under the bonnet and running it off the alternator / crank battery.

[@wai4wd]

Yep, that will do it for only running when ignition is on.

[@livingonarock5547]

Nice and clean. Do you know why they need the diode when other relay switches don’t have them?

[@wai4wd]

Its not about the relay, its about stray currents that get sent back up the line with motors. All electric motors do this, and where there is sensitive equipment (modern vehicles and/or modern accessories even in older vehicles), those stray currents can kill other circuits in the network.

[@juanmanuelvivas6299]

great video! I'm about to install the ARB Twin compressor into my Ranger Raptor and I have no other choice to do it in the back of the bed. I need to extend the power harness to the back (around 20ft) I was thinking on a single 4 AWG cable from the battery and join the 2 8AWG to it. Do you think the single 4AWG will works for this setup?

[@wai4wd]

That sounds pretty reasonable. 8m at double the max current of device, more than enough. That would provide more than adequate room for derating in hot conditions too.

[@artyalex8059]

Great video, thanks for the effort to help others!

[@wai4wd]

Thanks.

[@williamlucrisia9169]

This is extremely helpful to me your sharing is quite valuable. Thank you. I get a bit lost as your gesturing regarding the orange diode wire as as which end goes where. Is the anyway to clarify it in writing? I am only a bit lost on the the plug with the purple wire. I have no relays for lockers. Just want air as you described. I'm going to take this on in a say or so. Thanks- William

[@wai4wd]

This may help William: wai4wd.com/3185/simple-switch-wiring-arb-dual-air-compressor/ Simply put, one end of the diode is connected already. That connected end you cut, strip and connect to the purple wire. The other end that is unconnected you connect to your switch power output (turns on compressor when switched). This is very low power wiring, so small wire. Does that help? On the link above I have a schematic that shows this. You would only use the second diode as per linked schematic if say you placed your switch in the ute tub and that switch had lighting. I'm not actually sure which way the lighting diode is, as I never investigated it, but if you need it the simple rule is, the way you cut it out, you put it back in. If you take the heatshrink off the diodes you will see a line around the diode on one end. That is the direction of the diode, you put power on the end without the ring and power comes out the end of the diode with the ring around it, but won't go the other way.

[@williamlucrisia9169]

I hope yoy get this reply.... First time reaching out on KZbin. Thank you VERY MUCH. I plan to do this in the next couple days. It seems like it will greatly simplify one of the last aspects of my Toyota Tacom build. I got the link, I hope it's bookmarked. I really appreciate your sharing and timely reply. William, Bellinham, Washington USA

[@wai4wd]

@@williamlucrisia9169 Welcome mate, good luck with the install.

[@williamlucrisia9169]

@@wai4wd It went off without a hitch. Install is complete. Thank you for sharing your information. PS... The compressor came with that little red plug in the air supply port. I opted to keep it in while working. Came time to hit the switch under your guidance, it popped out like a champagne cork. Scared the heck out of me. Thank you. William, WA St. USA.

[@wai4wd]

@@williamlucrisia9169 Welcome mate... glad it all went smoothly for you.

[@jamesmitchell8490]

Mate top vid! Best one on KZbin. I've been scratching my head for hours! Cheers legend

[@wai4wd]

Glad it helped mate. Sharing is caring.

[@MathiasDavidsen]

Just to be sure.. The power going in to the switch, is just a 12v + going to one pin on the switch, then the red and yellow goes to the purple.. With the diode in between. And then the main power and ground goes to battery + and ground. Yes?

[@wai4wd]

Wiring diagram: wai4wd.com/3185/simple-switch-wiring-arb-dual-air-compressor/

[@nigelcunningham1628]

Thanks so much such a clear and concise video

[@wai4wd]

Glad it helped mate. Thanks for the kind words.

[@20ftollie]

This is so great. I am planning to use the stock arb switch and want it to light up. Can I run the second wire with the diode to my aux fuse box to illuminate it? Also the stock configuration of the switch has connection for two black wires, but the modified wire now only has one. Do I need to splice a second black wire to the existing and connect both to the switch? Cheers

[@wai4wd]

The switch is double pole, double throw I think, so only one side is needed, as it normally switches both compressor and links into other switches for lockers. Ground is ground in a vehicle, regardless how many batteries are in it, they all act the same, so just one. You can take power from any light source for the switch OR power it from anything when ignition is on. How you power the light switch is optional, just note that you don't want always on power, as any light will be a consistent drain on your battery otherwise.

[@whyvez]

I'm curious to see how you've setup charging to that aux battery.

[@wai4wd]

I run an ignition switched lead from the starter battery to my DCDC, from the DCDC to the large fuse block. I also have solar running into the DCDC. Redarc 25ADCDC.

[@JohnnyAirtimeJensen]

I found your video, and am grateful for such a simple explanation. Do I have to use the diode, if I'm connecting to a switch-pro? The switch pro, is a base unit that connects to my switch-pod (8 buttons on a small pad). It'll provide the 12V to the purple wire when I push my panels button.

[@wai4wd]

Yes, leave the diode in, as a compressor is an inductive load circuit, which Switch Pros themselves recommend using a relay or such, however, you're already doing that internal within the compressor and I understand you're only switching the compressor relay via the SP, but the switch wire is still susceptible to stray currents. I do not know what solid state switches SP uses, so I can't tell you outright whether their solid state are using a one way or not. Not all solid state do, thus making them susceptible to back current from motors, even switch wires on motors. Based on their FAQ www.switchpros.com/faq/ stating to use an independent system for motors, I will assume their solid state switches are susceptible to stray currents, so you really don't want to risk taking out your SP system entirely all because of a little diode.

[@angelberrios7843]

Thanks for the helpful video!

[@wai4wd]

Just glad to hear it helped. Thanks.

[@paulrosasqui]

Nice job, I'm about to install dame one. What guage wire did you use once you connected the 2 power cables together to use rhe 80amp fuse

[@wai4wd]

If you're running it more than 2 metres away from battery, 4BS, if closer, 6BS is perfect for the job.

[@DrewPeakoc]

Great video. Thanks. My only question is what did you do with the black wire?

[@wai4wd]

Hey Drew, the small black is the ground return for the switch IF you're using the backlighting wire. If not, it has no use. Two of the three wires are back lighting for the switch, one is the trigger on/off. I have a wiring diagram at: wai4wd.com/3185/simple-switch-wiring-arb-dual-air-compressor/

[@jays626]

I don't have a harness to cannibalize. Do you know what type of diode will work? I was just going to get one off amazon.

[@wai4wd]

Its just a trigger circuit, so it doesn't need to be large. If you had a diode for 1A that should be more than sufficient.

[@setupone6784]

Highly not recommended to combine the 2 fuses into 1 .. the motors are rated a bit under 40amps each. If there was an overload/ overcurrent fault situation ( such as a seized piston or damaged bearing) on 1 motor the fuse will blow before the motor massively overheats or potentially catches fire. At 80amps this may not happen and result in alot of damage.... with the fuse in place you can possibly save it and just repair the unit/ component that failed.

[@wai4wd]

Hi, changing to a single fuse will not change overload protection. Overload failure will still blow an 80A fuse as fast as it will the 40A fuse, as overload will drastically and rapidly increase current draw, which is what the fuse is designed to handle. A circuit breaker may not trip, but a fuse will blow rapidly at the correct rating. You must remember, load will only draw what it needs, so if each motor is fed individually, if one motor blows that line will overload, whilst the other motor line will still only draw what it needs, means no damage to it.

[@ohmitchiebabe]

Hey there! Super tidy install. Quick question - the combining of the two wires (with the 2 x 40A fuses) into a single one then doubling the fuse (80A), is that how it works? I'm an DIY pers and just trying to get my head around it. Is it suitable if I just run both single cables to a single terminal on a fuse block then put the 80A MIDI fuse in line with it across the bar?

[@wai4wd]

You got it Mitch. Just keep the cables the same length, that is the important part due to resistance, ensuring each cable handles equal capacity. So yer, just cut them out and connect together into a single 80A fuse, good to go.

[@ohmitchiebabe]

@@wai4wd Thanks! I appreciate it and will give it a go 👍🏼

[@shaneshield2543]

Hi mate just watching your videos and we’re did you get the power back board that you used in the tub and engine bay thanks

[@wai4wd]

www.swe-check.com.au/collection/distribution-units-bussed SWE Check.

[@ezrabailey7026]

Arb send a a switch with 5 prongs. The switch I’m going to get for my 2015 Tacoma had 4 wires. Would that work?

[@wai4wd]

You only require a switch with 2 tabs, in and out. Everything else is switch back lighting related (lights on and ground) or double throw use (different switch position use). So yes, it will be fine.

[@ezrabailey7026]

@@wai4wd sweet okay that makes sense!

[@justinsnowjaimeestuart1146]

hi mate great video but just wondering have u got this wired into you aux battery or to your starter mate

[@wai4wd]

I have it wired into my aux bat, purely because I don't want to have the car running when the compressor is running. You could wire it to your start bat if you want, you just have to have the car running when you turn it on. Same wiring either way.

[@tbags355]

Hi mate, does hooking this up to your auxiliary battery make the compressor work harder? I have a 200amh lithium I would like to connect it to.

[@wai4wd]

12v is 12v, lithium, agm or lead acid, works the same. Mine is connected to my lithium 2nd battery, but works the same if I connect it to the start battery. Only difference is that I don't need to have the car running to avoid flattening my start battery, running on the aux.

[@tikkamike]

on the cable for the main power source where the 2 red cables go into one and the 2 black go into one there is a tiny black wire. what is that wire for? do i Need it?

[@wai4wd]

Twist them together, both negatives. On the new model you have a black and a black-white. Both negatives.

[@wai4wd]

The official wiring diagram from ARB: www.arb.com.au/assets/air-lockers/5-08.pdf See the last page, which is the dual compressor.

[@tikkamike]

I’m sorry, I mean the 5th wire that is much smaller than the other 4 what do I do with that one?

[@wai4wd]

@@tikkamike Yep, if you have 2 large red, 2 large black, and one small black, twist the blacks together.

[@wai4wd]

@@tikkamike I think the small black is the ground that links through to the black on the switch loom that powers lockers... from memory. Either way, it doesn't hurt, as per the diagram linked. Its really about losing the rubbish on the smaller secondary loom that is the switch power.

[@Christian76S]

The diode is only required if you tap your switch power from ignition. If you connect it to the battery directly, there is no diode needed.

[@wai4wd]

Sounds about right as the battery acts as a big capacitor in essence. Is that your point? That is, if you wired it literally from the battery terminal via a switch. In my case, because I have other circuits running on the same power circuit... needed.

[@Christian76S]

@@wai4wd Yeah, kind off. I think the diodes are to protect the vehicle circuits/ECUs from any current running from the still spinning compressor engines back into the vehicle system, if the internal relay of the compressor is being engaged by i.e. ignition. But let me think if I've got some sensitive components myself in my aux battery system .. :D

[@greg.ocallaghan]

What's the reasoning of adding the diode to the circuit? I've seen other "simple" installs t-tap into the purple wire, but not sure why you'd need diode protection from power flowing the opposite direction. I intend to wire mine through a switch-pros 9100. Just curious as to why you added the diode. Cheers!

[@wai4wd]

Hey Greg, ARB provide the diodes already inline in the appropriate cables. Diodes are used to stop stray currents going down wires that current should not be travelling, specifically, stray currents are present with DC motors, being what the ARB compressor comprises. I do not profess to know the internal wiring of the ARB compressor, I've never pulled one apart, however, ARB have obviously tested their system that they include the diodes within the wiring loom as standard to stop stray currents back down the switch and switch lighting wires. Based on this fact that ARB are including them for stray currents in these two wires, I would highly recommend to keep them in place because they have obviously recorded stray currents on both of these wires. Stray currents down these wires from motor hammering into a Switch Pro's is exactly why you have a diode to ensure power only flows the correct way, to avoid over-currents coming back down those wires into electronic circuits such as Switch Pros, let alone through manual switches and into vehicle circuitry, where stray currents could damage a vehicle ECU and other sensitive electronic equipment.

[@peterroach559]

Hi mate, I’m about to do the same thing, so the purple wire you join the red and yellow wire with the diode on it to the purple one then to the switch, and the black wire in the one coming of the switch? So they are the only 2 wires coming off the switch yeah?

[@wai4wd]

Hey mate, wiring diagram on my blog: wai4wd.com/3185/simple-switch-wiring-arb-dual-air-compressor/

[@squidling4040]

Wow, neat as a pin. Another great video. Thanks. Where did you get those dash switches from, being 2 switches in 1 is a great idea.

[@wai4wd]

Lightforce do them. Just select custom switches for your vehicle type and if available, about $50 per dual switch.

[@squidling4040]

@@wai4wd thanks

[@ksyapp]

Hi I have just installed an ARB compressors and wired as you suggested I.e. purple to red and yellow wire and later in turn to pin 2 of the rocker switch. However the compressors won't start. I might have connected the diode in the wrong direction. My question is how to tell if the diode is installed the wrong way as the diode is wrapped and no arrow shown.

[@wai4wd]

Put a multi-meter on each side of the diode. If you have power one side, and not the other, you have it the wrong way round. Multi-meters have pointy ends for a reason, so you can stab the cable just enough to get a measurement.

[@ksyapp]

@@wai4wd Thank you for your prompt reply. I think in addition to the possible diode being connected wrongly my issue is also that I don't have a power source line connected. I don't have a wire already tapped into a switch in the cabin so I am thinking of connecting the red-yel line to the +ve terminal of the battery and connecting the purple to red wire and in turn to pin 3 in the isolation switch will this work? If so which way should diode in the red-yel wire go? Your help is much appreciated.

[@wai4wd]

@@ksyapp Here is a wiring diagram: wai4wd.com/3185/simple-switch-wiring-arb-dual-air-compressor/

[@liljohn309]

Do you have a better video on how you wire that up do you run power straight from the battery to the compressors and then use that diode with that harness to run to like my ass pod turned it on and off maybe a wiring diagram I’m considering this or the peerless 10 pound CO2 tank since I don’t off-road alot

[@wai4wd]

Hey, wiring diagram on my blog: wai4wd.com/3185/simple-switch-wiring-arb-dual-air-compressor/

[@full_metal2452]

Thanks

[@JBBunno]

Hi, does the compressor stop when you unplug the air hose or is it continuous with this wiring?

[@wai4wd]

Hi, this wiring has a switch to turn on/off. If left on, the system will pressurise periodically providing there are no leaks (which would pressurise a lot and drain the battery super fast) which will drain the battery over time. Isolation by switch is advised for all auxiliary items.

[@JBBunno]

@@wai4wd Thanks, I meant does it have a pressure cut-off when it's not isolated. As in cutting off between tires when undoing dust caps etc...

[@wai4wd]

@@JBBunno Ah… sorry, my bad interpretation. Yes, it has a max pressure around 140PSI that it will cutoff and hold at.

[@pjtaylor6655]

Hi, I have followed the exact way you have wired the twin air compressor, though when I flick the switch on the compressor it doesn’t start ?

[@wai4wd]

Hi PJ. Either, you changed the direction of the diode, easily checked, just measure voltage on either side of it, OR, you aren't getting power on that line, OR, switch is faulty / wired incorrectly, OR, worst case, the compressor is stuffed. Just place 12V onto the wire directly, no diode, switch, nothing. Ensure the fuses are in on the power lines and you have power there too.

[@pjtaylor6655]

Thank you for getting back to me, i wonder if it would make a sense if I am to run wiring from crank battery opposed to auxiliary battery 👍

[@wai4wd]

@@pjtaylor6655 Mine runs from my aux battery, all of it. I have the compressor power wired directly to the aux via an 80A fuse, and the switch runs from the aux through a fuse panel, to my switch, out of the switch to the compressor diode.

[@wai4wd]

@@pjtaylor6655 In all honesty, the easiest way is to just troubleshoot the power with a meter (multi or bulb tester type), to ensure you have 12V where you're supposed to have it, and when.

[@nick_patrol4x413]

My purple wire does not have power coming out of compressor? Am i missing something?

[@wai4wd]

The purple wire is the wire you put power onto in order to turn the unit on. You run power into a switch, out of the switch onto the purple wire.

[@wai4wd]

See diagram Nick which hopefully helps you out: wai4wd.com/3185/simple-switch-wiring-arb-dual-air-compressor/

[@nick_patrol4x413]

@@wai4wd all good thank you figured it out.

[@gingerdiaries3686]

Big help, thanks mate

[@wai4wd]

Glad it helped.

[@trindalefuller4515]

Hey mate, if I want to use the arb switch with 5 prongs but only need to use 2, what prongs on the 5 switch would I need to use? Cheers

[@wai4wd]

Both sides are divided, so a top and bottom typically. The one extra, typically central, will be the switch lighting. You can confirm this just by putting power onto one, then test the prongs with a light. If you have a multimeter, no power needed, just test it with continuity. Without having one in front of me, I believe they're a double pole, single throw, simple, on or off, but the terminals are double pole which means you can run two sources via a single switch.

[@trindalefuller4515]

Cheers mate. I’ll give it a go

[@nazdmeyzalex5771]

Hi, where to buy that switches u have?

[@wai4wd]

Lightforce: au.lightforce.com/collections/custom-switches

[@nicholasmerlo2260]

What bracket did you use for tub mount I'm looking for the same thing?

[@wai4wd]

I made my own. I used some aluminum tubing to first mount the compressor to each tube then to the tub.

[@triptonmiller8532]

To a novice on electricity, this is gibberish.

[@wai4wd]

If you don't understand electricity, then you should not be touching it, as you will likely burn your vehicle to the ground. Seek someone local to help you or a professional.

[@BROVERLANDER]

Neither one of your motors on your dual compressor are protected by that fuse 80 amp fuse. When you deleted the two 40 amp, that was the highest amount of amps that the motors could handle. Now with the one 80 amp fuse the motor 1 or both will fail because of that 80 amp fuse being to large! The motor will fail at 41 amps or higher. They’ll be dead before they even get to the fuse blowing at 80 Amps. ARB separated the wires and gave you two fuses for a reason so each fuse could fail for one motor only. Protecting the motor by 40 amp fuse failing.

[@wai4wd]

I am a qualified electrical fitter, mechanic, auto elec and specialised in industrial electronics. You are wrong in your assertion on how electricity works. Yes, ARB protected each motor individually. Short circuit is what you are protecting against. Equipment fault, in essence. When a short circuit occurs, either motor, the current on that short circuit will be in excess of 80A by itself, let alone the current drawn from the other motor still running normal. A single fuse will instantly blow, regardless which motor fails. Simply, if motor A shorts, motor B will still only draw what it draws, it does not magically start drawing more current whilst the other is in short circuit. My professional opinion. If one motor fails and blows a fuse, you DO NOT want to be continuing to use the other motor. You want that entire piece of equipment to cease, be removed and repaired/replaced. This is how people burn their vehicles to the ground in the middle of nowhere, because they're all backyard experts and think they can wire 12V knowing nothing about electricity itself. Its the same as this stupid industry telling you to use circuit breakers on 12V. Circuit breakers are not actually the best of the two options for vehicles, as fuses are designed specifically for over-current protection, which is what you want in low voltage high current environments. A short occurs, current increases, fuse blows. Fuses do this faster than circuit breakers, yet an industry makes them available and people use them because you can reset them. Back to, how to burn a vehicle to the ground. When a fuse blows, you have to understand why it blew and fault find, not just replace it and go on as though nothing happened. It is a sign something went wrong and if you don't know what, power should remain off.