Archer Sew-Along: Day 14 - Attaching the Cuffs

[@SarahWilliams-oo6zg]

Thanks for a great lesson.

[@GrainlineStudioSewing]

Glad you liked it!

[@michelleclark6727]

making my 4th archer, I love this pattern and these videos so much! you say something around the 2:07 mark that I have puzzled over--can you explain what you mean when you say "you are going to want to align the seam line, not the cut edge?" thanks!

[@GrainlineStudioSewing]

Yep! First off, the cut edge is the outside edge of the pattern piece that you cut along. Then there is the seam line, this line is 1/2" (or whatever the seam allowance is) in from the cut edge. On straight lines the cut edge and seam line are the same length, but on curves the two lengths differ. So if you're attaching a curve to a straight line, the seam lines will be the same length but the cut edges will not be. A lot of people try to align the cut edges and find the two pieces don't fit together which is definitely the case, because what you want to align are the seam lines. Does that make sense?

[@juliabouy]

My third arche and still using these vids. Any advice/tricks to reduce the sleeve length by 1 inch? I did a toile and totally forgot to adjust the final pattern piece. I french seamed on very fray-able linen so I cannot unpick! I thought about taking it off the cuff and button of the sleeve?

[@karaplegic]

Thanks so much for the lessons - my Archer is coming along and looking great! I’m wondering if it’s possible to gather the end of the sleeve to match the length of the cuff (instead of pleating) for more of a bishop sleeve look? Seems like it should work, but usually if I make a change like that it ends up messing something else up in an unforeseen way 😂

[@GrainlineStudioSewing]

You can definitely do that! I can't imagine anything going wrong so I say go for it. It would be really cute I think!

[@carolinaw1197]

Hello Jen! What’s the best way to reduce the sleeves length? Thanks so much for the lessons!

[@GrainlineStudioSewing]

I would just remove length from the elbow area and then blend the edges at that point, that way you aren't messing with anything sewing into the cuff.

[@claysonfletcher]

what side and inch is your edge foot? Im debating on which one to get for my industrial machine foot. I was thinking right side and 1/4inch.

[@GrainlineStudioSewing]

Mine is adjustable to either side, but I think I typically use it with the needle on the left side? It's honestly hard to remember which side I use more. I'm usually stitching about 1/16" away from the seam with it and the actual foot is a 1/4" foot. Hope that helps!

[@katiedaltrey6705]

What’s the difference if you have chosen the other view of the cuff? (Which of course I seem to have done!) Thanks!

[@GrainlineStudioSewing]

Oh no difference, you'll just pivot at the angle!

[@sharonrichardson1236]

I am finishing up my second archer. I have made a size 14 and its fits perfect except for the bottom of the sleeve and cuff. I thought I might have done something incorrectly on the first archer, but the same thing has happened. The cuff is so big and to get the fit correct the button placement causes the placket to overlap. Where and how would you recommend and adjustment for the cuff size.

[@GrainlineStudioSewing]

You'll need the placket to overlap in order to close the sleeve. I don't know a way around that other than making the cuff extend beyond the sleeve placket. If you're finding the width of the entire lower sleeve and cuff too large for your arm, you can blend between sizes to a smaller size at the lower sleeve/cuff.

[@kimhandy1861]

You said leave a 1/4" sa on the edge when pinning but isn't it 1/2"? I did 1/4" on my first cuff and got some puckers. Now pinning the second cuff with 1/2" sa on the edge and it's fitting a lot better.

[@GrainlineStudioSewing]

Oof I'm so sorry, I misspoke! All seam allowances are 1/2!

[@kimhandy1861]

@@GrainlineStudioSewing thanks for the confirmation. The second cuff turned out great and so far my muslin is looking pretty good. Just practicing to do the buttonholes and buttons (if I choose). Thanks for the online tutorial! You rock! 💕

[@GrainlineStudioSewing]

@@kimhandy1861 I'm trying to figure out if you can edit a video after it's posted but I don't think it's possible - I can't believe I didn't catch that! Glad you got it worked out anyway and I'm so psyched you're enjoying the sew-along!

[@kimhandy1861]

@@GrainlineStudioSewing sorry I don't know how to edit the video. I think most people read the comments and will see that it should be 1/2 inch sa. Seasoned makers will probably know that too. Don't sweat it! 🤗 The video is great!

[@glynismarsh4532]

Well sorry to say I didn’t read the comments first so I have to unpick my cuff! The seam is pressed and trimmed as well! Lesson learned I guess.😕