Are Expensive Carbon Wheels Worth it?

20% off Stages Powermeters + accessories, USE CODE "NCC20" at checkout.
stagescycling.com/en_us?coupo...
Cycling computer: bit.ly/3nCPOhV
Handlebars:
Front GoPro: amzn.to/3mmzBh7
GoPro/computer dual mount (front): bit.ly/3Bossl0
Rear GoPro: amzn.to/3EoCDb0
GoPro saddle mount (rear): bit.ly/2ZGJtdh
Tires (racing): bit.ly/3Gpz71Q
Tires (training): bit.ly/3jMo88Y
Helmet: bit.ly/2ZtqnH2
Shoes: bit.ly/3nCFuXc
Sunglasses: bit.ly/3CrYyxh
Indoor trainer: bit.ly/3mocfb1
Performance Bike helps support this channel: bit.ly/3EnmWkr
Stay updated with weekly bike racing commentary, tips, and strategy by subscribing:
bit.ly/2wUTrJd
My Strava:
/ strava
Instagram:
/ norcal.cycling
Send Coaching and Collaboration related questions to:
[e-mail]

[@Hambini]

I think the aero between wheels is firstly overrated and secondly quite misunderstood. especially cross wind stability. However the weight is something that any individual will feel. That weight is concentrated on the outside of the wheels and accelerating is what what takes the power. The only other big difference is the quality of the hub. The rolling friction is not insignificant at low speeds.

[@gaza4543]

have to agree areo wheels are very much in the marginal gains and that's putting kindly and you have to be at the right angle to really make use of the sail effect and vis versa. And i have found the same with bearings which a simple roll down test confirms.

[@HUNHali]

Also unfortunately Jeff just dismissed the second run entirely which showed how much time variance wind and body position changes make in a relatively flat and open course like this. I bet if he had done 3 runs with each wheelset and compared the results, the difference would not be statistically significant. On the other hand, I love my cheap Elitewheels MARVELs, which are priced similarly to the ICANs. Would love to see a Hambini review about these or the cheaper steel spoke WInspace Lún wheelset.

[@pspensieri]

Your favourite five year old #Hambini #eng

[@jaimegu]

​@@HUNHali Exactly, Jeff showed us leaving from the parking lot 3 times and times were within 5 seconds, and the faster run was 1W higher (0.36%) for 5 seconds faster (0.66%). The faster run (12:14) is the outlier. Why was it faster with less power I liked the attempt to average the data, but still is not enough data to draw conclusions. One rider, one bike, one power model (constant 276w), one road, 4 samples. Even Cam Nicholls' tests are limited.

[@The123fiona]

Was that double negative in the last sentence intentional?

[@myshihtzudontstink]

I always thought my wheels were slow then I got a power meter and just turns out I just don’t put out as much power as I thought.

[@infinati]

Aluminum wheels vs cheap carbon sounds like a great comparison test. Other tests ideas: Aero handlebars vs round bars. IIRC Specialized said the most aero gains between the tarmac SL6 and SL7 was in the handlebars. It's one of the first surfaces the air hits so making it aero makes sense for maximum gains. So how much difference do aero handlebars make? Narrow (36cm?) handlebars vs normal width bars. Seemed to be a trend for people to do this, but is it really worth it?

[@zacharyerskine4277]

As someone who has switched from round bars vs. aero bars on a climbing bike (for comfort + I race stages/crits and I'm not rich so wanted some advantage over round bars) They made a world of a difference. I can get in a lot more aggressive of a position - I also added budget-ish aero wheels American classic 420 aero and they both are night and day different.

[@loc9588]

handlebar gains are really in the width. if you go from a 42 to a 38 you will definitely notice a difference in your average speed. same way tt bars give you about a 1-2mph speed boost

[@sugashack7420]

They just did one of those

[@zacharyerskine4277]

@@sugashack7420 what is the title of the video? I can't find it

[@Robke250]

Keep in mind it is also mainly their marketing team telling you that you now need a aero handlebar...

[@lolbubs11111]

The good news is you can get ~50mm Chinese carbon wheels at a lot closer to 1.4kg than 1.8kg at a similar if slightly higher pricepoint. Winspace Lun 45s retail for $800, ~1450g; Farsports Kaze 45s at $770, ~1455g; LightBicycle Falcon AR46 at $700, ~1410g. 1.8kg for the ICANs just seems exceptionally heavy.

[@jerseykeagancamungol3639]

Thank u so much jeff for creating this kinds of videos. To me as a cyclist, this helps me in budgeting my money on my bike upgrades, to know the benefits of these wheels are really a great help.

[@robertask9027]

Now the quality and dedication is grown so much on this channel. Amazing shoots, thanks for that! Enjoying your channel even more!!!

[@benjaminwolf9801]

I weigh 200lb and even though I have owned several carbon wheelsets in the past, I have found that a sturdy aluminum wheelset has been my best option. I also don't race and have zero KOMs 😂

[@tylerf1674]

It is still awesome to have you out on the roads on a bike :)

[@donbracci2199]

Thanks for the hard work minimizing the variables to quite the duchess. Thanks for all the preproduction and post-production work. Great video 👍

[@robertbarreiro2640]

I love these videos, especially how you're always trying to be very objective. Already waiting for that alum vs cab comparison, since I'm thinking about getting my first carbon wheelset. Also, I would like to see a comparison in tires performances, like Vittoria vs Continental, and so on.

[@steven_90s]

Thanks so much for making this! It was definitely highly requested in the comment section of previous videos by many :)

[@crypto_que]

I love how you followed the natural progression of cost basis Vs needs Vs wanting to buy slightly higher end wheels. The fact you end up in exactly the same place as I did $1k to $1,500 is reassuring. A few companies have wheels on sale in that price range and some even have great warranties. Excellent review & thanks for all the great info.

[@dramaexclamationpoint]

Love these wheel testing videos. Definitely wanna see the aluminum vs entry level next :)

[@Blah-blah-sure]

They won’t do it because they know , it wouldn’t have made any noticeable difference

[@Blah-blah-sure]

You’ll also notice when the whole rim vs disc brakes jabber was going on. That the only valid argument was that disc stopped better in the rain, vs carbon rim brakes. But conveniently they never compared disc to aluminum rim brakes. Also knowing very few ride their bikes in the rain.

[@MrRoybob]

These are interesting videos. Back in my day we used to do this kind of test coasting down a hill and timing our runs (to test TT position). We didn’t have power meters so it was a good way to do multiple runs consistently

[@Rocketrecliner]

Subscribed. Look forward to seeing the same test done with cheap carbon wheels versus aluminum. Comparing acceleration will be interesting too. Thanks for doing these.

[@triggamusician]

About the crosswinds. I bought a set of old, maybe cheap 52mm carbon wheels last spring and one of my first rides was through a mild storm. Of course, they would catch wind and riding was really difficult. I felt my side abs after that because I had to balance myself all the time and I wasn't used to that coming from Zwift in the winter. In the summer I bought another lighter bike which came with very light 25mm aluminum wheels from Mavic. It so happened that I rode that same bit from the other ride through another mild stormy day and there was barely any difference in catching crosswinds. I just wanted to share that because it seems that those more expensive, more RnD wheels seem to be a nice-to-have.

[@tgoods5049]

Typically the Chinese brands offer a “standard” carbon rim and a “lightweight” carbon rim. It would be interesting to see a comparison of a Rovals versus a Chinese wheel set that is the same weight at the Rovals.

[@oliviersalois]

I was wondering the exact same thing.

[@furnaccio]

I’ve been riding with ICan since 2020 on my TT bike. I’ve done 3 70.3 races with them among other races and long rides. I paid $800 for my wheels and I’ve had no significant issues with them. Great video. I was researching upgrading my wheels but I don’t think I need to after watching this :)

[@till5000]

I like your Wheel testing videos so much, i need a new pair and your videos help me to decide what I need and what not, thank You!

[@adamlucarelli7933]

I recently upgraded from Fulcrum aluminum wheels to Roval C38 entry level carbon and the biggest immediate takeaway is the ease at maintaining speed. Can't wait to see the next vid on this!

[@durianriders]

Wait till you use some nice rim brake wheels mate.

[@quintennn]

Yes! Testing alu / carbon would be very cool! I have the Giant Contend AR 1 which I always explain to people as the alu endurance version of the TCR. (I know that's not correct and it's a lot closer to the giant defy but it looks a bit like older alu TCR's). So I would love to see a comparison between alu/cf bikes.

[@BrianMcDonald]

I went from aluminum wheels to low end carbon and felt a massive improvement. I got slightly less cheap carbon wheels this past year ($469 60mm rim wheels from Elite) and I also switched to TPU tubes and I noticed a big change for the better. I'm on my third set of cheap carbon wheels in a 6-ish year period, but I think if I was using disc wheels I would have invested in something in the 800-1000 range.

[@danp6504]

Same

[@ivanboesky1520]

Placebo effect BS for amateur posers. 😀

[@Amilla18]

I'm thinking about going carbon but three sets in a six year period is way more than I want to spend

[@BrianMcDonald]

Yeah it's a tough choice :(

[@rightsideways]

I'd love to see an aluminum vs. cheap carbon wheel test. I'm looking at buying a set of wheels for group road rides/races that will go on my gravel bike. Great job with the videos! gearing up mentally to jump back into road racing after years away, and the strategy and play-by-play videos are excellent. cheers!

[@shepshape2585]

I can tell you that I have a 38mm set of Super Team chinese carbon wheels on my road bike that I paid less than $300 for and I've got about 10,000 miles on them and they are still super true and look great. They have several different depths and color choices, and their customer service is great. But read all the reviews for yourself and you'll see. You can buy them right from Amazon or you can wait and buy them from China. But you won't be disappointed.

[@bonbonflippers4298]

@@shepshape2585 those superteam wheels are also made and sold by many other Chinese sellers without decals and I have 1 set that feels and rides as if it's bombproof. It's heavy yes but feels extremely solid and have not needed to true yet and I hammer it hard on ramps and under pass bridges. I will say this...light wheels isn't always better, for the non racers out there whose weight is heavy I strongly suggest to not purchase super light wheels...

[@kalijasin]

Cheap carbon vs. High end aluminum

[@danmartinez9497]

No problems from my cheap $500 Chinese wheels

[@ivanboesky1520]

Aluminum versus CF wheels for amateur posers.

[@aldotcom79]

Late to the party, but super interesting! What I'm taking from this is lighter / more expensive wheels for crits where you're constantly slowing down and speeding up and need to accelerate over and over, and heavier / cheaper wheels for TT or flat-ish triathlons where you're riding at a relatively constant speed throughout. In fact heavier wheels will make it easier to maintain a higher speed, if the weight is in the rims anyway....

[@aryap2797]

I got a pair of Mercury S5s for my race bike early in 2019 and they've been perfect the last 3 years (9,663 miles). They're MSRP is 1200 but i got them on sale for $900. They're made in the US and honestly are a pretty nice set (1600g). I'm a low weight rider at around 140lbs and 5'4" and while crosswinds aren't fun, they're manageable. I agree with you Jeff, the 1000-1500 mark is a really good compromise. Still a chunk of money but no need to spend $2500 on a set.

[@pjwillsr]

Agree on the Mercury quality for value...I always question when a markdown from MSRP is so large, but as a non-racer I took the value and found a wonderful difference from my stock aluminum wheelset on my Giant Defy.

[@jonathanwise47]

Would've been interesting to see a blind test.

[@mattlawrence5976]

Yes! blindfolded Jeff riding 5 miles is the next Video!

[@NorCalCycling]

but actually... i'm trying to figure out a way to safely do this. open to hearing any suggestions! In this case even peaking down once at the FAT clx50 front rim would immediately give it away.

[@ProWeAreSo]

@@NorCalCycling tape a cardboard box to your handlebars so you can't see the front wheel

[@jonathanwise47]

@@NorCalCycling a blacked out Elizabethan collar, maybe...🤣

[@gefloigle]

Just don’t look down? 😂

[@bojeingwersen1082]

love these comparisons of somewhat affordable gear and luxury items!

[@QiuyuanChenRyan916]

I am heavy rider live in hilly region. One difference is after a super heavy steep hill descent. The cheaper wheel will have slight off on the rotor causing some rotor rubbing, but as it gets cooler later on it resume back. Not sure if that is just the stress on the hub it can't handle or is it the heat. I had a lot of hills here that needs this type of braking effort to bring it to a stop.

[@weijianlau2156]

noticed that the disc rotors used are different. some rotors dissipate heat quicker by generating more turbulence which creates aerodynamic drag. might want to keep that as a constant.

[@santiagobenites]

Excellent topic, and excellent video. Yes, please do the carbon vs aluminum video next, for all of the tech nerds out there 😄

[@ashmartin7374]

At 130lbs I bought some $400 amazon carbon wheels and have over 3,500 miles on them with no issues. Rim brake style and no wear on the braking surface either. So far so good $$$

[@toophou]

I need this comparison! Looking forward to it!

[@tomadkins9057]

Very interested in these comparison videos as I’m looking to buy my first set of carbon wheels with an eye toward getting into crit racing and possibly longer road stuff. Think you do these testing and recommendation vids better than just about anybody.

[@Gabizzle3]

Great content, how about high quality aluminum wheel versus entry-level quality shallow carbon wheels? That’d be great to see how a newbie would benefit with new carbon wheels that were 35mm or less!

[@lobo241us]

I have two sets of Superteam 50mm carbon wheels. I have thousands of miles on them and I’ve had zero problems. The first set is five years old the other set is three years old.

[@ccdbcvtrider1]

Superteams....yup have set as well...fast wheels, but my rear makes noise like the spoke tension isn't right even though they have been checked

[@poxm]

superteams are the best cheap wheels. I use those at crit racings and they feel good

[@saitoyukio]

@@poxm ll be my next upgrade

[@francisdayon]

Very solid advice at the end. As all cyclist, I always get the urge to upgrade but I like spending the luxury upgrades on tech instead.

[@thecrohnscyclist4450]

Definitely like the idea comparing aluminum vs carbon wheels. Especially with some acceleration stuff. Very curious to see the results! I want to know if I should get some carbon wheels or not and drop the money on them or just ride some decent aluminum wheels.

[@linusowens2858]

DT Swiss PR 1600 32mm deep, about as fantastic prebuilt alloy wheelset you can get. I've been dropping carbon boys on my pair for over a year now.

[@marklindsey4272]

I have three sets ICANs. A disc, rim brake set and a fixie set. I live in a high cross and headwind area. These are 40's in front and 50's in the back. I've been very happy with them so far and average 7,000 miles a year. They come with quality bearings. I've been in two 25 mph bike race crashes and the wheels survived better than I did. Rolling weight does affect acceleration, without a doubt.

[@vladimirkhristov4653]

The compatibility of the rim to tire size could at least partially explain the increased drag and lower stability of the ICAN. To maintain smooth flow around the airfoil shape especially in crosswinds, the rim should be larger than the tire (105% as large ideally). In this test, the Roval CLX50 is 29.4mm wide, while the ICAN Alpha 50 is 24.8mm. It seems that both were tested with a Grand Prix 5000 28mm tire, which is a much better aerodynamic fit for the Roval. More expensive brands like Roval were quicker to implement wider rims, but now budget brands are catching up and you can get $500 wheelsets that are 28 or 29mm wide.

[@tomokuta_]

Keep making these, entertaining and informative

[@dhess34]

Favorite cycling channel on KZbin. Keep up the awesome work!!

[@thetimeisnow1210]

Your content is amazing! Thank you!

[@gp94403]

Have just begun investigating carbon wheels. Didn't know there were so many lower cost options from quality manufacturers. BTW, love my Fulcrum Racing Zero aluminum wheels. Absolutely bomb proof.

[@edsinofsky]

I run an ICAN mullet 50/60 with the lighter layup. the alphas are the heaviest layup. Mine are 30mm outer width. I run a 26 up front and a 32 rear. Mine were like $800. No crosswind control issues here on windy cape cod. 140 lbs. I ride with a guy that has those Rovals and they make a magical noise going through the air. something is special about the Roval air flows.

[@frozenbean]

I got a pair of 28mm deep lightweight alloy hoops from Hunt with aero spokes, and they're great. I live between the mountains and the ocean, so there's always tons of wind and hills not to mention terrible road surfaces, and they perform excellently year round. They're not quite as purely aero as a pair of 50s would be, but with all the strong crosswinds we get here, I don't think deeper wheels would be much fun to ride on. They were also less than a grand in CAD funny money.

[@shanen.6210]

I've got a set of 38mm rim brake ican wheels. They weigh 1300 grams and work good for me. I don't think you need deep section wheels personally but thats subjective. I don't think any wheels should cost over 2000 bucks but I also don't think a bike should cost over 10000 bucks. The bike industry is getting out of control with the pricing of anything bike related these days. People need to start putting their foot down and stop paying these outrageous prices on bike things. All the big name bikes are made in the same factories as the so called "Chinese carbon" bikes and yet the "Chinese carbon" is over 4 times cheaper? And guess what, the Chinese companies still make money on these products. That just shows you how greedy the big brands are these days.

[@swolebro]

For the subjective attributes and the real-world race performance, have you considered doing a "blind taste test" at your Alviso criteriums? Tape over the logos and have a friend mount a random pair to your bike (don't look too closely!). Do that for a couple races, and at the very end, have your friend reveal what was what. Much less sciencey, but it would be thoroughly entertaining!

[@l.d.t.6327]

Unfortunately, the freehub sound and especially the weight, will most likely give away very quickly what wheel you are riding...

[@abarrick09]

IO was thinking the same thing! You can easily be swayed even if you think you are not. Simply knowing which wheels are which during the test can influence how you think they "feel". I would for sure have them taped up and hidden by the other guy and do 4 runs the same without knowing which wheels are which.

[@michadebicki6534]

@@l.d.t.6327 How do you expect to feel the wheels by the weight while riding? You won't notice this difference at all.

[@Ridewithjst]

@@michadebicki6534 I switched wheels this year and new set is about 400g lighter and you can easily notice the difference

[@cornishcat11]

@@michadebicki6534 it is easy to tell that much difference in weight

[@benthilwind6908]

Yes mate 👏 .. thanks for the vid... looking forward to your ali vs carbon. ... obvs the weight is gonna be the biggie... literally yesterday upgraded my cx/gravel bike (wheels) desperate for some carbon but the only stock wheels i could buy were mavic cross rides think its mtb wheel but its only 900g without the cassete heads gone... bring the next vid fast fella cheers 🍻 from the british gravel champs

[@ShawnIsBatman]

For me the biggest hesitation in going with the lower-end option is always the quality control, reliability and durability issues. In addition, the warranty (breakage) is also always a big factor. If I only had $500 to spend I would likely try to find the highest quality aluminum wheels I could at that price.

[@robertradowick380]

This guy gets it. $500 wheels are great on any given day... Until they take you to the dentist.

[@toshman696969]

@@robertradowick380 this was always my fear. descending at 40 mph and a wheel goes pop. I have more trust in my zipp or enve even if i might have heavily overpaid....

[@robertradowick380]

​@@toshman696969 It's easy to move wheels from bike to bike. Makes sense to buy something that will last.

[@liamjohnston9358]

There are some nice aero aluminium wheels out there for a cheaper budget however it’s the weight which lets these down

[@hectorkidds9840]

I agree, I've an expensive set of carbon wheels, two events missed due to the freehub failing, and a broken spoke on the front wheel after ~ 2000km. Quality is worth it

[@metamurph]

My Cervelo came stock with DTSwiss 1600 spline alu 32mm depth. The fitter said I would be surprised and generally, I am quite happy as I am really an old dude who likes to ride and do some fondos, but the eye is always attracted to the carbon little deeper setup and the new reserve stuff (keep it in the family) is appealing. I saw the $500 carbon vs. stock alu...that isn't even an upgrade so more a stock vs. $1500 wheels that is where it is interesting.

[@nickwatkins8413]

I'm not into the roadie stuff but this is good content and I think it also applies very well to mountain bike wheels. The stats, the explanations and the tech are all very familiar. Longevity is the biggest issue for mtb, especially on rocky trails but for an XC whip I dont see much difference. Nice work

[@IIISentorIII]

"I'm not into the roadie stuff " *SKIP*

[@Ridewithjst]

Stock aluminum wheels vs upgraded alloy vs up to $1500 carbon would be good, too. Rationale: HED Ardennes alloy wheel for $900 vs a $1200ish carbon setup would be very close, though you’d have to pick between a low profile or deeper carbon wheel depending whether you’re trying to capture aero benefits of entry carbon vs high end alloy

[@kalijasin]

All metals used in the bike industry are alloy.

[@SnappyWasHere]

I have some 50mm light bicycle wheels that are way less stable in crosswinds than the Enve ses 7.8 I replaced them with. The big companies really do know something about real world wind conditions.

[@yonglingng5640]

If I want a 50 mm deep front rim, it's DT Swiss ARC or nothing for me. This may be the only expensive brand I'd be willing to buy.

[@zacharyerskine4277]

I'd love to see a difference between a climbing specific or light weight build vs an all out aero build. I ride a look 785 huez and have added dura ace stages PM crank, OSP, most xc20 aero bar, and American classic 420aero wheels. And I always wonder how much difference an aero frame would make and also the benefits of climbing bike vs aero up a medium full out effort climbing 7-15 mins

[@sheltonshots]

I've owned two sets: 55" carbon composite ($800/set) and 47" full carbon ($2k) from different, well-known brands. It's probably the extra depth and materials but the 55s were like sails. I wouldn't ride in 20mph+ gusts. The 47s are better in every regard, even a little faster. Whether that's because of the wheels themselves or my confidence, they're worth every penny.

[@murphkevin]

I’d love to see a comparison of low-end carbon versus aluminum. I’m currently mulling over that decision.

[@rosomak8244]

Go alu. It's a nobrainer.

[@toddmiller5046]

I went from a heavy shimano wheel to superteam carbon wheels, i paid just over 400 with tax, best bike upgrade I’ve ever done

[@thecyclinggreek274]

I look forward to your AL vs C comparison.

[@roofdoof]

Hunt 34 Aero Wide Disc Alloy - AMAZING set of alloy wheels! Woudl be cool to see how these stack up against cheap carbons.

[@tylerf1674]

At 205 lbs and still seeing steady gains through training I have a lot of things that I can focus on before worrying about upgrading from my used Zipp 404s that I got for under $500

[@MaximeTurcotte1983]

Maybe I'm wrong, but the Bontrager Aeolus RSL 51 TLR is 1299.99$ for the front wheel. A wheelset is more expensive, more than double that price (rear wheel is more expensive than the front wheel)!

[@leonschumann2361]

got some aeolous comp5 alloy rim brake, very very good and got some elitewheels marvel coming. the middle gound is perfect. the difference to quite good aluminum wheels is not insane, but very noticable.

[@goodcompanycoffee]

+1 Make the Aluminum vs. Entry level Carbon vid Jeff. Also open to any middle tier value for money aluminum wheels

[@bjm2762]

Great idea about carbon vs aluminium test. Just what I need to select my next new bike

[@joshua_337]

I picked up a pair of Topolino wheels with carbon and kevlar spokes / hub with aluminum rims and the front was significantly lighter than my aero carbon wheel (no name) that I had. Best $150 I've spent on a bike part. It'd be interesting to see how a $1000-1500 wheel from the 2000s compares to a $1000-1500 wheel of the 2020s

[@camoreilly]

Would love to see a comparison video with different handlebar widths! Will mean different body positions for each run but that's the point. Went from 42cm to 38cm bars this year and I think it made a real difference.

[@kevinfore92]

After two years my ican hubs needed to be replaced. I put some nieces hubs on and this is my second year since then. At least 20k miles on them. 10k since new hubs. I don’t race, but do long group rides and centuries. These are perfect. When I raced I had high end wheels until a crash destroyed them. Then went cheap until I retired from races.

[@Chimpware]

Great video - would have liked to see data for the difference in power for acceleration / climbing. I ride Zipp 303s on my Pinarello and SuperTeams on my Cannondale, and actually prefer the feel of the Superteam wheels, but it's very subjective. I am about 0.5 MPH faster at the same power on the Pinarello, but it's more than just the wheels being different between the 2 bikes.

[@arlandasv]

Alu vs carbon is very interesting,- looking forward! good luck

[@mathewrose2951]

The REAL sweet spot was that I picked up a Roval CLX 60 rear wheel from a friend when he forgot to pack his front wheel after a group ride and drove over it while backing out of the parking lot. He just bought new rims because they were insured and he gave me the rear one for free. I bought the matching front wheel from Pro's Closet for 500 bucks. A set of Rovals for the price of a set of Icans.

[@adaycj]

Way better than the last video. Make a quick chart or table of the results so we can all see them properly. I also think you should make a point if you get product for free that you get to keep. And yes, I know the iCan wheels were "free" but you don't get to keep them. Tubeless doesn't suck, but my faith in you and your videos is restored.

[@kimwarner6050]

I have the ican aero 40, which come in at 1400. I payed 700 for them shipped. The wheels feel much more stable than a 50 in a different brand I own. I choose the ican b/c of the weight and price. I'm not rich and if I was I still wouldn't pay 2500 for a wheelset. Don't forget we're adults paying lots of money for plastic toys

[@vnvtraining7203]

I don’t race but I bought some ULTEGRA C36 carbon wheels and love them. Running them on my Specialized Roubaix Comp 2021 👍🏻

[@SergioGaeta]

Great idea for the next video!

[@crbondur]

I'm with Jeff, (road) tubeless sucks! :D As for the differences, the weight and the "mullet" design are two major changes, in favor of the CLX 50s. And I COMPLETELY agree that the $1,000 - $1,500 price range is the sweet spot. Along with the ones Jeff mentioned, Scribe, Hunt, Reynolds, Fast Forward, Fulcrum... all of these brands offer great wheelsets in this range.

[@fkrr5]

Yeah, tubeless is too much of a hassle for road bikes. Great when it works, but when tubeless fails it's a hot mess. Rather just put a new tube in and move on

[@DaveCM]

@@fkrr5 tubless very rarely fails though. After years, I've to put in a tube once between two bikes. It wasn't even a "hot mess". I simply put in a tube and went on.

[@Garrick42]

9:15 I'd add Hunt Aerodynamicist wheels to the list of wheels in the "sweet spot." $1100, 1500 g, lifetime crash replacement, and a freehub so loud that people think you have Chris King hubs (although I think they offer a quieter option now).

[@Joshua-dx7zn]

I can attest to those crosswinds when you are 130lb rider, although I'm not a new rider. I have a pair of Reynolds 50mm wheels and even those give me a fit in the crosswinds. I would love to see how a good pair of Zipps or even the Shimano ones do out on the road.

[@gaza4543]

303s measure pretty poorly with crosswinds, i know that. There is a trend coming up the ranks of different size and shape rims front and back, U shape, shallower and wider on the front and V shaped, deeper for the rear. Supposedly meant to combat side winds. My Parcours Ronde do very well in crosswinds, i was out in 32mph gust the other day the steering was unaffected it was me the wind was pushing against.

[@Sandro-lj3tu]

I have the shimano ultegra c50. I‘m 82kg and you can definitely feel the crosswinds (especially compared to the 23mm rims I had before) but as long as you have your hands on the handlebar it’s no problem at all

[@justbebetter6031]

Agree! Nice content bro!

[@elijg6104]

I can vouch for the durability of Ican wheels. I’ve crashed mine hard twice and they’re still fine

[@RonBalone]

Let's see a carbon handlebar stem vs stock comparison video!

[@sasha371]

If you can get Fulcrum 0 to test against icans - would be great. Next test - crank lengths, specially for Crit raider: your usual (I guess will be 172.5) Vs 165. But need to have a different course, something with lots of sharp corners: parameters for cadence, power, dead spots in the corner

[@Thom4aa4s]

Would be really cool to see an aluminium wheels like the Campagnolo Zonda !

[@kevinwong2488]

I like your fit Jeff! Have you gotten a proper bike fit before or is it more of a self trial and error find your own positon that works for you?

[@PeterSdrolias]

I have a set of gravel carbon wheels from Scribe! I love them! Oh, and they are half the price of my Roval CLX 32s.

[@theundead1600]

Well the bontragers on my new trek are medium end and can with a hop in the rim. I had the shop true it and it’s still there. So qc like you said is a thing. This winter some new wheels are in the plan.

[@TheMerckxProject]

I have 3 different sets of 'Alu' Rolf Primas that I love, and I just bought a pair of DEEEEP section ICAN's (Alpha 86s) because I was curious. But you did cover some stuff that I find problematic in a lot of the product testing/review YT channels. The first is F-ma. It infuriates me like nothing else to see how many people write this off when they're telling me how superior an aero frame is even though it weights an extra 1500g. You gotta burn some matches to get it up to speed, then back up to speed, then back up to speed... The second thing is the testing methodology. Every picks a set W number and holds it and supposedly at the end of the day that shows me which "wheel" or whatever is better. Why not ride a set speed and show me your watts afterwards? If something is saving me watts, then actually show it saving me watts instead of time. Finally, you should definitely do some 20/40s for your follow up test. It would def be closer to a real world scenario.

[@newoldsteel]

You have to use some mavic open pros! Got some a while back from velomine and they are awesome but they definitely fit more with a steel frame aesthetic

[@westsidewheelmen]

Just for giggles sometime: it would be fun to see a comparison of top-of-the-line 1980s race wheels with contemporary race wheels. I know it would be really hard to do with a rear wheel because of reasons but, even if you just swapped in a front wheel. Say, a 28 hole Mavic SSC rim laced three cross with DT 15 gauge spokes to a Campy front hub with a Vittoria Corsa CX tubular mounted…

[@rosomak8244]

As someone who was riding in the 1980 I can assure you that quite likely the results would be that the 1980 tech is beating modern stuff. Modern construction is mainly not only about better performance but about marketing, reducing general manufacturing costs and in esp. manual labor.

[@SweAussie]

Great video as usual 🙏. Wow, can't believe that the giant has external cables, the white specialized didn't have that right? That's gotta catch more wattage than the beard 🤪

[@robertwhyte3435]

I think the a fair amount of the difference between how the wheels feel in crosswinds is familiarity. You've ridden the Roval wheels long enough to know what you can ignore and what you have to account for.

[@blindspotclinic]

I am curious what the difference is with spokes? High end spokes make a huge difference in feel and stability. Also has the spoke tension been optimized?

[@671james]

Yes, please do the low carbon v aluminum🙏. Stay safe, ride safe. Thank you

[@ericleszkowicz898]

Would love to see a tire comparison, because that is the one and cheapest change I made that seem to make the most difference in my riding speed.

[@jrmcnulty4978]

Great work. I agree, I would like to see the aluminum wheels that you would get on a ~$2,000 vs. entry level carbon. When cyclist get that type of bike the first thing we think about (or told to do) is invest in carbon wheels. My question is this really a worth wild investment? I know, that there is a tipping point where it makes since, but what is that point? I know what it is for me, but what about the rest of the "average cyclist"?

[@gaza4543]

The biggest difference is hubs and bearings. for alloy though I'm not fan these days as the hubs are junk, a pair of hunt 34 limitless wheel and compare to some zipp 303s level wheels. i think you'll will be surprised how close they get using the optimise tyer size of 25c. I found them incredibly fast and pretty stiff tbh . Defo a good option if you're privater crit racer on a budget or just want affordable equipment you can replace if damaged.

[@sfdint]

I am thrilled with my Ryet carbon wheels for $430. They weigh just under 1600 grams and have ceramic bearings. As a non racer the idea of paying 3 to 6 times more for a premium brand is unthinkable. Only question is their durability and you can hardly test that. My other wheelset is Hunt alloy, about the same price and weight. I can't really compare their performance because the Hunts have gravel tires and the Ryets have road rubber.

[@timwong6818]

After riding alumimum entry level rims for 2 years, I bought my first carbon rim 404 fc, and then dt swiss 1100 50/62. TBH, carbon rim itself is usually very stiff, but the spoke layout, spoke building quality, and hub choices often make more differences into the equation of: whether a carbon rim rides comfortable, stiff, responsive, etc. Tire width and whether running tubeless also makes great difference. Anyways, I'd say the rim depth and inner width are the most important parameter for me when buying carbon rims, brand wise, I do prefer brands that produces reliable products. In terms of weight, it is not that important after all because when you are saving weight, brands usually trade the durability. DT180 vs DT240 is a great example as roval would rather just use DT240 on their top models than DT180.

[@Wheels419]

I’ll vouch for the Token wheels. Really stable and slightly heavier than a Zipp or Roval. I’m 6’1” and 180. The extra 200 grams is not what is preventing me from dusting the competition.

[@sillypuddystl2907]

I've tried a lot of different rims but i always have full confidence in my Open Pros, the most consistent wheel for training and racing. and beat a lot of guys on 10k+ bikes

[@mariuszwalas5950]

Jestem użytkownikiem ICAN aero 50, piasta DK 350, wago ok. 1540 g, tylne koło nie było dobrze wycentrowane u producenta , po jego poprawie jazda na tych kołach jest bezpieczna, koła karbonowe zmniejszją drgania oraz pięknie brzmią w trakcie jazdy , przejechałem na nich około 25 tys. km jest znimi wszystko ok, waże 82 kg. Jeżdziłem wczesniej na kołach Giant PR2 solidne aluminiwe koła lecz cięzkie co czuć było na podjazdach natomiast na zjazdach zachowywały się znakomicie.

[@porschephilosopher4543]

Very curious about acceleration tests!