Are The PROS Tightening The Chainsaw Clutch WRONG?

Do You AGREE With This Chainsaw Clutch Tightening Technique? I have seen so many small engine mechanics do this! Is this safe? Is this stupid? Is it acceptable? Will it damage something? ✅CLICK HERE FOR MY BATTERY ADAPTER ➜ amzn.to/3bLciLP
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[@StevesSmallEngineSaloon]

✅CLICK HERE FOR MY BATTERY ADAPTER ➜ amzn.to/3bLciLP For more videos like this, check out: 👉How to Reset a Stuck Husqvarna ChainSaw Chain Brake ➜ kzbin.info/www/bejne/rIrVXp2Lbpmsd6s 👉CORRECT WAY To Tune The Carburetor On A Chainsaw ➜ kzbin.info/www/bejne/g2e3Zn2lfL2Wfrs You can connect with Steve here too: ✅Visit Steve’s WEBSITE ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/ ✅Visit Steve’s PARTS & TOOL STORE ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on FACEBOOK ➜ facebook.com/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on INSTAGRAM ➜ instagram.com/stevessmallenginesaloon/ ✅Follow Steve on TWITTER ➜ twitter.com/SteveSaloon

[@gregeverett2290]

i’m a 17 year old saw builder been at it since i was 10 and that’s how i do it

[@tterry53]

In my 40 years of repair I have never done it like that. Just hand tighten with a wrench and a "Tap" is all I have ever done. I figure that when you put the saw in a log it will tighten it.

[@edwardborowski8270]

I totally agree with what you say that's the same thing I do

[@William_Charles_Baker]

I'm 64 years old, have been working on chainsaws for almost 50 years and have never hand tightened a clutch. Just spin them on snug and go cut wood.

[@KensSmallEngineRepair]

Workshop manual says "tighten the flywheel retaining nut to 25-30 Nm (18.4-22.1 ft.lbs.) torque" Best to have the bar and chain and brake cover on before revving it up, don't ask me how I know lol!

[@ponchovanillabean8074]

I found that out the same way. I was outside and the clutch flew into pieces. I couldn't find them all.

[@JakePlisskin12]

I literally just that the other day. With no chain and cover on I went to Rev it becuase I thought that's how I seen it done but naw. It's not. Everything flue off. Needle bearing reverse engineered. I found every needle roller except for three. I just got my new one in the mail today. Was putting my. .325 sprocket back on becuase the 3/8 sprocket I got was a large spline. For my 545xp mark 2 that I'm probably going to blow up installing a 28 inch bar on. Full skip chain though. If that even matters. Idk I don't even know how to tune a carb. Hence the auto tune. Haha.

[@markanderson2155]

I am not a pro or even a seasoned repair guy, but even I know that the manufacture has specs or torque settings for most all parts or assemblies. But with that being said it does seem logical to do what you did for many reasons, one of them is safety. You obviously don't want parts flying off, so it is logical to make sure that the nut is on tight. That's just my 2 cents or point of view. Love the topics you come up with, also thank you so much for your video's because you helped me with a carb issue on a weedwhacker that I never knew. Now it runs great. Had to replace the carb though because it was cost effective and the great thing was it came with the adjusting tool, your lesson was very valuable. Again thank you so much Steve.

[@stevengamsby5344]

Many of the classes that Husqvarna back in the 70s Homelite and other manufacturers they said to do it just like you did yourself it always worked for me enjoy your videos

[@RaleysSmallEngines]

Good one Steve. All I do is put it on with my small cordless impact and take it outside to test it. I don't do the anti kickback other than once to make sure it works. I've done 100s of saws this way and have never had an issue. I don't know the Proper Procedure. Right or wrong what I do seems to work. Thanks for sharing, I'm interested in you explaining what the proper procedure is. Awesome as always brother.

[@jeffreyrubish347]

I think it's acceptable to give it one brief throttle with the chain brake engaged. I wouldn't do it repeatedly.

[@CaliforniaCarpenter7]

I think that is the reason I have so many busted chain brakes in my vintage chainsaw collection :)

[@skipjames8437]

Ha!

[@tcbiglake]

Translate Ha! To English : Ha!

[@patbarone729]

Hi Steve , Re: the chainsaw clutch installation Yeah or Nay? I am old school and still like to use the torque wrench in many applications, but in the quest for that adequate repair, 1st would be a ratchet or wrench, 2nd would the quick use of the 'Small Drive" impact gun over the use of the chain brake. However, when you are out in the bush, and have limited tools, etc, one must do what is necessary to get it so that you can make your dinero for the day, so the chain brake will have to suffice. Don't do this multiple times (once is MORE than enough) unless you want a fight to remove it next time. I can't really call the last a option for me, as I have never done it that way - Pat Barone , Pr. Geo. BC

[@skipjames8437]

I'm no Steve, but I do believe that is the best reply I've heard all day.

[@HobbyMotorDK]

Procedure is solid. The clutch is self tighting - running the saw after repairs ensures clutch is on tight and threads are good. It's the way I do it. (really hoping I'm not wrong here 🙂)

[@michaelspencer301]

Simply running the saw after replacing the clutch under no load will not work. Needs to be under a load to initiate tightening (cutting wood ) . If not you will find yourself walking around your parking lot looking for the clutches components thrown everywhere. Been there and done it .

[@almclean4835]

I spin the clutch on as tight as I can get it with my hand. It tightens up with use like in your video. Never had a clutch come slack or off in 34 years of working with saws. They all take a bit of effort to take off again

[@keitha.9788]

After working on a chainsaw clutch, bar, and/or chain always start-up the chainsaw and push the hand guard forward once to ensure the chain brake operates properly.....

[@omniscientgrunk]

I am not a chainsaw mechanic. I install pipe and valves and instrumentation for a living . I can tell you that sometimes these shortcut to securing things seem fine but they do not FEEL fine. Hate to think someone else out there that is around me after doing these things could be injured. Just broke my arm, forgot what pain was up until now. Do things right if possible. It will annoy everyone else. Peace/ Thanks for the video Steve

[@TheLawnmowerLady]

With rare exceptions, I never tighten any fastener with an impact tool, especially on crankshafts. On saws, I put it on hand tight, put a piston stop in the spark plug hole, and use a small hammer and punch to tap it a few licks.

[@nat5720]

Not saying that’s wrong, but it literally is an impact tool there sir :)

[@TheLawnmowerLady]

@@nat5720 True, but to be fair, a couple of light taps with a 12oz hammer is less severe than a barrage of instant bursts, pounding at a relatively unknown high torque, a powered impact tool subjects to a malleable fastener.

[@sidvis7235]

@@nat5720 Not entirely true. With an impact you rattle the crankshaft, piston, and connecting rod, all of which could suffer undue wear. Using a piston stop, you take up all the slack, minimizing undue wear, if not eliminating it.

[@andybonneau9209]

Doing this once to test the chain brake (and tighten the clutch) is fine, but doing this repeatedly is pointless.

[@darrenallport]

I agree with you mate. I had to replace my 661 clutch and brake the saw once and never had an issue with the clutch since

[@KPaul7]

I thought this is the right way. Learned from an old timer's son that has been logging for 20 years. His dad taught him and his dad taught him.

[@darrellwbrown9671]

I don’t know about you, but I want 2 hands holding the saw when I rev it up. I was taught the break has two functions, 1. it should be on when you start the saw from the off position and 2. when carrying the saw to a new location. The point is, the clutch should have a torque spec use a wrench!Safety always comes first, especially with something that can cut an arm off in the blink of an eye.

[@mikespain8655]

In the real world most people who run chainsaws with regularity do not put the brake on when starting, and also drop start the saw.

[@darrellwbrown9671]

@@mikespain8655 does that make them right?

[@coastalcleaningandmaintena2884]

Pros do not ever start the saw with the brake engaged. Nor do they transport it with the brake on. There's many reasons why. That's entry level homeowner type talk

[@robpotter1355]

I’ve read loads of the comments and just want to say, I think you are not doing this as intended. Remember chainsaw have been around a lot longer then cordless impact guns. I think the idea would be to spanner tighten the clutch with a piston stop or starter rope in the spark plug hole, then Apply the brake BEFORE starting, then rev the engine to tighten the clutch nut. Revving the engine first could loosen the clutch as the revs die off before slamming the brake on, as you did? ( you did ask,! ) Love your videos by the way, you have saved me lots of time and money in the past and we all appreciate what you are doing, long live the two stroke!

[@stoplookingatmeplease1230]

What if the chainsaw has no brake?

[@robpotter1355]

@@stoplookingatmeplease1230 You are talking before early 1980’s? Everything else should have a working chain brake. I have a Husqvarna L65, 1972, this has a proper hexagon nut to tighten with starter rope in the spark plug hole, actually really easy to hand tighten with a spanner.

[@patgentile8521]

I think you should teach us the right way that you would do in this situation your the teacher we are the students think all your videos are awesome learned a lot and like you drink and teach

[@100vg]

I have no opinion to offer, but a follow up video with your answer compared to any comments consensus would be great! I bought a 20" Poulan Pro PR5020 that I still haven't used, so I have no experience, but it would be good to know for when I do need it. Thanks, Steve!

[@Airgunfunrich]

Tighten to specified torque, check chain brake works before giving back to customer..

[@GuysPlayingWithTools]

I can't imagine more than once would make any difference at all... but then again... after thinking about it some... bumping it with the impact makes it pretty tight. I don't think the first stop would make it any tighter either. Great, now i am thinking about it....I am going to have to take mine off in the morning and test it. 🤣

[@jimcharb4230]

Steve I depend on you in a clutch!!!!

[@dogsplantscarsneatstuff176]

I enjoyed the pun!

[@jumpsouth1]

Benn at it for forty years, now, and I always hand tighten, and give it a gentle tap with a punch. However, will have to go with the guys, on torgue specs..Love your advice all these years. Stan Big Island ,, Hawaii

[@bobbyb322]

Thats what torque specs are for.

[@derrasenmaher9730]

Just pop the break in once to see that its working correct and tighten the clutch a bit more. But Never do this reapetly. After the saw Runs a while and has cut something I do one more test and thats it.

[@beingthere597]

That method is a new one on me. I would want the nut at least snug first, then i would start the saw with the chain brake on, leave it on, and then give it a rev. Then there's no way for the clutch to loosen on deceleration. Having said that, I always use rope and a torque wrench because I often have other things to do on the saw before I'm finished and don't want to forget and leave it loose.

[@billmorris2613]

If the chain saw manufacturer has a torque value to tighten the clutch to, then it needs to be tighten with a calibrated torque wrench to that value. My policy, as an FAA licensed aircraft mechanic is, if the manufacturer has a torque value from minimum to max, is to either torque it to the middle value between the minimum and max. Or to the max value depending on the application. I would use the max in this case. If not then the bolt needs to be torqued to the value the bolt manufacturer calls for, using that same calibrated torque wrench. If the bolt has a minimum and max I would use the max in this case. I use a torque wrench on most bolts

[@richardcranium5839]

the threads on the clutches are so as it runs it self tightens. that is the first time i ever seen that done. all you are doing is stressing that chain brake - a safety device. foolhardy at best

[@ronwatson4902]

I use my impact. Works for me! Thanks Steve.

[@bluecollar58]

My opinion is that I’m going to do that tomorrow, lol. I put a new cylinder , piston , rings in my Husqvarna 455 rancher. It starts and runs great but the clutch spun off and broke a shoe wile I was testing it. I don’t have a tool to tighten it properly and banging on the shoes didn’t seem like a good idea.

[@peterlindsay2869]

I normally tighten it by hand. Start it up just like that. And do that once but that’s not to tighten it that’s to make sure that the brake is working correctly. At least in my experience. I guess it’s doing both I suppose. And it gives you peace of mind when your customer uses it for the first time it’s not gonna fly off. Because you’ve tried it and you’ve used it and you know it works correctly.

[@simongibbs9392]

First time I stripped my clutch I put clutch on gave it a quick short wack with a shifter and hammer and then started it without the cover and bar on over the clutch. Gave it a gut full of revs and hollllly shit! I recon some of those clutch parts launched into a suborbital flight! Had to go change me reg grundies after that.

[@bltoth1955]

No torque specs?

[@MrCrf450rider]

I always use a piston stop,and always make sure the piston is resting on in counter clockwise.otherwise you will tear the recoil pulley on the other side

[@warrenweber7057]

I've been in business for 40 years and I've never actually tried this approach. I just Tighten things up firm and can't recall and incidents. Interesting idea that I'm sure would work - but I'm old school, i have to feel the tension.

[@skipjames8437]

All that tension sometimes causes counseling & therapy, but I agree,- after doing that I'd really have to double check it with a torque wrench.

[@tomstepanowicz6191]

In the 70's when I was doing tree work, I had two tools for removing and replacing a clutch. A nylon threaded plug to replace the spark plug and a special wrench for the clutch. The plug would rest on the piston to keep the engine from turning and the wrench tool to remove the clutch.

[@christopherwatson283]

I just snug mine down and go. Never had an issue. Not just Chain Saw clutches, either.

[@tazziels180series3]

As a mechanic, there’s no way I would rattle a crankshaft nut or hit it with a hammer and piston stop. It makes me cringe thinking about the damage it’s doing to the bearings. Any way didn’t the engineer’s sort this out for us when they designed it? I’ve never heard of an un damaged clutch “falling off” because of the whole rotation v’s thread direction. A nip with a spanner and the second it gets loaded up while cutting it’s good 👍

[@robertproteau4113]

I’m sure there is a torque specification for that clutch regardless of what people are doing. So my answer is absolutely not. This seems like a case of, I don’t have the right tool for the job so I will just wing it.

[@Big_Johns]

Good video and question Steve, when I used to work on saws I'd do the brake trick just once, I always thought that'd be plenty. 👍🏼

[@weatherby84]

Bad method… might make it really hard to get off. Proper torque will make the machine last longer and save a lot of headache

[@xcop4511]

Good question, Maybe one cycle... Where is Sarah?? Thanks for the video, Steve. xCop

[@Leonardokite]

I would think that just torquing it to spec would be enough. Why wear out your chain break?

[@letsbfrank6640]

Seems like a reasonable technique to me. Hardest impact load it’ll ever see is when this happens in the field; it needn’t be any tighter than this will achieve, and mustn’t be any looser than this will produce.

[@MrReadandlearn]

I suspect the idea is to use the chain brake as a test of the tightness of the crank nut. If that's the idea the nut will only get tighter given the thread requires a reverse direction of chain travel and crank rotation to loosen it. Putting the chain brake on will only momentarily, until clutch disengagement, place a tightening force on the nut.

[@thomasknighton6783]

My opinion is that it is very possible to snap the crankshaft. I use to race two strokes on go karts and I have seen people break the crank just by getting on the gas to hard from a stop this is kinda the other way around but still same shock to the crank. Maybe I might be wrong but it definitely isn’t good on the saw.

[@markmacdonald6452]

You should tighten with the pull cord pulled out if using a impact, or against a plastic piston stop or rope if using a wrench. Not a bad idea to put the brake on and insure the brake works snd clutch is indeed tight also.

[@jme36053]

Every fastener has a torque specification. What was shown here is a quick fix.

[@jamesgeorge1709]

There are alot of Shade Tree Mechanics out there and I watch your videos and learn. I especially liked the one with the one with homebrewed penetrating oil. Keep up the good work Steve you really know your stuff. Thank You😅😅😅😅

[@StevesSmallEngineSaloon]

Thank You...and You're Welcome...

[@donmayberryjrsOPE]

I've always used an impact to tighten BUT, in 50 years I have broken my share of clutch hubs/shoes doing it that way!

[@markzinck5375]

I have been in forestry for 20 years and have only hand tightened a clutch on chainsaws. They always come off harder than I put them on. Actually, because they go on with reverse threads, the direction it spins will tighten it as you cut wood

[@MitzvosGolem1]

Spinning crank running will unscrew from clutch when safety brake stops clutch unless reverse threads . Should be torqued to specs.

[@errolpoxleitner9586]

I have worked on saws for 45 years and I always tighten the clutch with my air wrench bt you have to make sure you get it tight I have chased the clutch across the street.

[@williamscoggin1509]

I've been using chainsaws since the late 1970s in the few times that I've actually pulled the clutch off or something when I put it back I'll wait just hand tighten with a ratchet and a socket. Figure that's about the same and I have never had any problem.

[@keithrayeski6417]

Yea, I guess that’s why I don’t let shops work on my saws. It’s not only completely unnecessary, but not the purpose of the chain brake. Several of my powersaws don’t even have chain brakes…I’m happy with that. I can’t imagine how we got along for so long putting on a clutch without a chain brake!🙄😁

[@Deadite9405]

My impact wrench will spin the chain while the chain brake is on, so I'm pretty sure it's hitting at least as hard as engaging the chain brake is.

[@luulemees]

As i see this, nut itself is turned on to left that makes it self tightening.. so all you need to do is turn it on with a wrench with some tension and be done with it... there is no need for some whooga-booga.. if you ave no proper tools and you turned nut on by finger, you dont need to attach bar and chain just give some good run with cover on and it should do

[@kevinbushell2746]

Left hand thread it's self tightening

[@Patriotalliance]

Not being a mechanic, but with some basic experience I would torque to manufacturers specs before I ran it.

[@eriklong6390]

I'm not saying what I do is right. But what you did in the video is what I was shown to do. The brake is going to grab that clutch and tighten it (to a certain point) anytime it is engaged. So me being a small engine tinkerer and Steve, you being an actual small engine mechanic, do you think it is ok to do it the way you did in the video? I never really noticed any damage or anything from doing it that way.

[@paulmorrey733]

Cheers Steve

[@peachsncream5808]

Hey hey people …I know my post is off topic but I wanted to share … I was trying to get an old fs 81 And fs 86 I rescued from a skip bin ….Unfortunately the diaphragm’s need replacing 🤔 and I can’t afford to bye the parts I was about to give up …. When a thought hit me ….I grabbed a carby from an old sthil hedge trimmer . I pulled of all the plastic throttle guides and spacer 😁the carby holes lined up 🤣😂 with the old fs 81 and fs86. It fit … the only thing you need to do is take the throttle stopper locator knob from the fs 81 carby the throttle arm and switch it to the hedge trimmer throttle arm. It’s only held on with a cir-clip . I manually primed the hedge trimmer carby …..IT WORKS IT WORKS . ITS FU…..KING RUNNING PERFECTLY . Holy crap 😁 I am standing in the carport with the biggest f..king smile on my face. The old carby is from an sthil HS 45 hedge trimmer , I saved the carbs from a few dead machines . Both the old fs 81 and 86 are now both running great . I hope this helps save someone some stress and money in these tuff times.

[@irishplayerkc]

If you know the torque specs then torque it, if not hand tighten before revving to tighten.

[@farmerwayne1404]

Steve you'll do anything to have to try a new 🍺....

[@LM-rk3nm]

For RH threads, either way will work equally well. If there's no thread lock, 'twill just get tighter with use.

[@yelloow7t]

I think it unnecessarily stresses the brake. Also lazy.

[@dougharcher]

Simple answer,. Use a torque wrench

[@SurlyMike]

I just came for the beer.

[@robertontiveros946]

Can you make a video on 009L Stihl chain saw how to fix carburator an where the hoses go thanks

[@eustaciosaucedo4682]

This is the 1st time I see that I usually tighten it up with a Lil impact and that's it

[@lindsaymerritt975]

I just use a spark plug stop and a ratchet wrench. I’ve not had problems doing it that way. Of course, it’s started and checked.

[@jamesmorrison3665]

Is there not a torque speck, or have I spent too many years working on aircraft?

[@Herbybandit]

Good idea as long as you don't go crazy.

[@coastalcleaningandmaintena2884]

It'll work just fine but I prefer hand method. There's really no need for anything but a few hand tools to do a full breakdown and rebuild of a complete saw. Especially a real husky. Is the 55 a poul Varna?

[@robertpowell2746]

I would torque it to factory specifications.

[@mauricesmith9560]

Only have done it one movement snug with wrench thats it never any issues

[@nif977]

I did an EU funded chainsaw safety and maintenance course back in the early 1990s and the use of the chain break like you've shown is how we were taught.

[@1kbs11]

My understanding is that the tightening will take place with proper use of the saw. Mechanically, I don't see the method shown in this video actually working. I don't think it is good for any part of the saw involved in the abuse. The saw brake has one purpose and that is kick back safety and not tightening the clutch. The real tightening comes from proper warm up and actual cutting of wood. We know the chain travels in a clockwise direction and the clutch; when loosen, is turned in a clockwise direction - So how is it applying the brake tightening the clutch? The brake applied isn't turning the clutch in a counter clockwise direction - it is just stopping it in place or even slightly forward of its initial contact when applied. (JF)

[@backyardfirewood9852]

I do the chain brake method

[@seanhoude]

Sounds like two birds with one stone to me. Proving that safety feature works, while ensuring it's tight as well. If it were bad to do, implies maintenance needs to be performed anytime that brake gets engaged.

[@0808dsmith]

Been doing it just that way for years!

[@Mike75575]

It works but it's rough on the brake components and side casing. Definitely wouldn't engage the brake with the throttle held full open on purpose. "Boom" dollars for parts.

[@OldJoe212]

I don't know enough about chainsaw clutches to have an opinion. Actually, that's why I watch Steve's Small Engine Saloon, to learn the right way to do things.

[@islandaerial3414]

Question: I bought an old Homelite 245 manual oiler model. I can't find any info on what/how to use the oiler function Do I: Pump it while in operation or, just hold it down while working. Thanks! Even the manual doesn't say as much. Having a Carlsburg enjoying your short 🍻

[@charlesboston1]

non issue .... also verifies that the brake is properly functioning ... but could result in over tightening the clutch ...... but i haven't seen a negative in 30 + years

[@bigdaddyrentz1388]

Could you do a video on splitting the crankcase on a husqvarna k 760.

[@danohagan942]

Steve,have a Red Max backpack blower , works great except it will not start after it is hot . I’ve already closed the choke and pulled the starter till my arm falls off no good . HELP PLEASE

[@hickorystx]

Follow manufacturers torque specs and also gut feeling. Either way testing a couple of times will be the guide.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

I prefer to tighten it by hand with rope in the spark plug hole, but this would be just fine if you know the force your impact applies :)

[@bullykuldo6233]

It will put strain on the new clutch locking it up like that under load ?

[@planetside2scippius]

I think it works well. it will happen in any case when you run the saw sooner or later

[@AndyFromm]

Different strokes for different folks

[@bfowler4350]

I had a boss that hated that(not when one of our saws got worked on). Before I climbed any tree, I wouldn't just warm the saw up, I would do that exact same thing! I know it puts wear,and tear on the saw, but when you but hinge a top out of a tree, you will get rattled around! A lot cheaper to fix a saw than a leg, or worse! It's a great tip for residential! Steve, is this you?👇

[@davidobrien4340]

Not all the saws I restore have a chain break so it's a rope piston stop and a hand ratchet

[@leshenderson5746]

If it's like a grinder it will be so damn tight you will have a hard time getting it back off, been there done that.☺

[@tc6643]

Love your channel Steve! Always excellent straight-forward advice-no BS! My opinion is that the correct way to tighten a clutch would be with a torque wrench to manufactures specifications. With that said, let's be real about this. The two real methods are going to be as you mentioned in the video-impact gun or chain brake. Personally I think an impact gun can easily overtighten past the manufactures specification and needs to be used very cautiously. My vote is to use the chain brake method. Let's remember that the chain brake is designed to be used that way and you are certainly not hurting anything with that method. Also, as you said, IT WORKS!

[@davidobrien4340]

Interesting question. I had been putting them on with a cordless impact just to nip it up and a hammer and punch to give it that little bit more, some times I use a poor man's engine stop, clean starter rope.. if iam doubtfull. I never ever hang off a rachet either on a clutch or fly wheel as I have had one break. I often wonder if factory specs do have a tourqe measurement just to be extra safe so I can use a tension wrench that way I don't have to think twice or over do it. I've never used the brake to nip them up. If my teacher SIR Steve tells me that's the best way then I'll be doing it Steve's way. Steve's education has never ever ever failed me yet. So iam keen to see Steve's answer. Thanks for your tubes because it's made me the wood cutter that I am today, skills pay bills. Thanks heaps Steve

[@skipjames8437]

Well said. Steve's way, or the highway.

[@davidobrien4340]

Skills pay bills and also Skills save on bills, when I look at my collection of 28 vintage muscle saws I think without this channel I would not have my collection In perfect running order, I can not say in words how much I appreciate Steve passing he knowledge on, maybe one day I might try and get a signed picture of Steve to hang on my wall in my saw pourium!

[@sandsock]

I am going to say it is wrong, use the impact to do it. The chain stop is a safety part and if you do it that way. It may wear out, for when you need it. Even when you do get a kickback. Your already letting off of the gas. So your not working the safety as hard. Why not just put the clutch on and pop the ratchet with your palm. Set the brake and pull the trigger. Same results less likely wear. That is my guess