Making A Better Carriage Stop For The Lathe

G'day everyone,
In this video I will be making a carriage stop for the lathe. Carriage stops are a popular project for hobbyists to make for lathes. I need one to hold a dial indicator so that I am able to set the lathe up to cut tapers. My design will be slightly different to other ones. I am aiming to make it much more ergonomic and simpler to use, having the screw at the top to lock it. I hope you enjoy the video.
#machining #diy #minilathe
Timestamps
0:00 - Intro
1:47 - Cleaning up the stock and drilling and reaming the holes
5:23 - Machining the upper part of the carriage stop
9:14 - Machining the lower half of the carriage stop
11:30 - Testing the carriage stop

[@InheritanceMachining]

I love designs that look simple and elegant but actually have a bit more going on than at first glance. It's like an engineering easter egg. Nice work on the design, execution, and video.

[@ludditetechnologies]

Nice to see you over here :) Love your channel too.

[@ironhead65]

Nice job! Might I suggest, when running with this, turn the indicator more side ways instead of the face being up. This way swarf won’t sit on the face. I had not considered this and hot swarf got on the plastic face of my Indicator and melted in a bit.

[@artisanmakes]

Thanks for the advice.

[@samrodian919]

That's a good idea and tip!

[@Gottenhimfella]

Better still, mount it to the right of the carriage. With a long-travel indicator, there are several benefits apart from getting it away from the stream of swarf: the indicator counts down instead of up when feeding leftwards to a shoulder, so that you can use a null seeking mode (target is zero) which is much less cognitive burden, particularly when power feeding (which produces a better finish). Most power feeds do not enjoy being fed into a dead stop. The long travel is desirable for several reasons: it allows the use of the DTI more like a DRO for longer features, and it saves the instrument from the risk of winding the carriage to the right and inadvertently overtravelling the plunger. The resulting damage can be avoided by fitting a travel stop tube, I guess.

[@CraigsWorkshop]

Great result. You might also find that for work close to the headstock end, that you can use the indicator holder on the right hand side of the carriage (tip extending as the carriage moves left). I often have an indicator on a mag base set up this way just for more clearance. Also - a long travel indicator can be very handy. Cheers, Craig

[@howder1951]

That is what I usually do as well. I was wondering if that sheild could be held in place with magnets to make a switch over even easier.

[@ironhead65]

Just don’t set zero as fully extended. I did that once and moved too far as the Indicator did not go negative to show me I went too far!

[@CraigsWorkshop]

@@ironhead65 perhaps a stop on the left of the carriage and a dial gauge on the right. The dial gauge could then be used to set the stop.

[@ironhead65]

@@CraigsWorkshop that is an idea! Or just pay attention? I’ve just had to invent things to help me pay proper attention

[@haydenc2742]

Worse comes to worse, punch a hole in the way cover right where the indicator stalk goes thru (as long as there isn't something behind it that it will interfere with) then get a small plastic stopper to put over the hole to keep chips out Very cool design and build! Keep em coming!!!!

[@joewhitney4097]

Great project and video. I agree, having the screws on top is a much better design. Thanks for sharing.

[@tootaashraf1]

dude how do you keep making so many high quality videos so fast?? I can't wrap my head around it

[@artisanmakes]

This was only a quick afternoon project :)

[@jmtx.]

Having the two screws accessed from the top really makes this an awesome design!

[@cavemaneca]

Dang, today is a good day for maker KZbin. So many videos to watch. Great job on this project as always!

[@fredford7642]

Thank you for your time and effort on a informative video. Great job!

[@brendanbenedict31]

damn, this dude churning out so much CONTENT

[@robertwalker7457]

Great work, thanks.

[@howder1951]

Nice design and super finish. Very nice technique with the dowels. Enjoyed very much, cheers!

[@CRILIKk]

Great design & build , thanks for sharing ☝️🙏

[@mhc6777]

Thanks - it's good to see someone else put the lock screw on top! :)

[@gregwmanning]

Great result. I like the guide pins, excellent idea

[@ludditetechnologies]

Nice job, appreciate all the effort and sharing of knowledge.

[@nielscremer599]

That runout on your mill is quite insane!

[@artisanmakes]

A bad grind on one end mill flute that kicked it out of centre, nothing much to worry about

[@kirkswater]

Another awesome Artisan build!

[@bostedtap8399]

Nice item, great addition to the shop

[@MachiningwithJoe]

Great work as always dude. Having those guide pins welded to the work piece looks like it works really well to keep everything aligned.

[@the4thj]

I love it, man! I will be making one thanks for the inspiration.

[@TigerCarpenter]

I really like this design of the carriage stop. I'll try to replicate it one day.

[@fvpaquetqc]

Really good looking part!

[@oregonsteamnut]

I really like your design. I like it enough that I made one for my mini lathe. It works so well that I made another for my Grizzly 12-36. Keep up the good work. I look forward to other useful items.

[@homemadetools]

Nice job yet again. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎

[@Bob_Adkins]

Rock-solid, I like it!

[@andli461]

Clever design with that “screw from the top”. 👍

[@tonycstech]

Cool project. Thank you ☺️

[@PeregrineBF]

I'd have added a protrusion to the bottom (or top) of the stop just a bit longer than the tip of the indicator when fully compressed. That way it could serve as a hard stop without removing the indicator. The other addition (though usually better in a different stop, since they serve different purposes) is if you add a spindle brake you can wire a limit switch onto a hard stop. That can be used to turn the spindle motor off & engage the brake just before a crash would happen! More common for CNC machines, but not terribly difficult electrically and decent insurance.

[@CraigsWorkshop]

Yes, and it's also possible to add a cap screw through the carriage stop body, from the left hand end, protruding on the right. It's a nice way to get an adjustable, and repeatable stop - I use a vise stop like this. Also, I ground and polished the tip of the screw to resemble a half ball-bearing for a nice repeatable point contact.

[@artisanmakes]

Thanks for the suggestion

[@ScheunenTecCNC]

Another Nice Video thanks for Showing

[@SculptyWorks]

That came out great! 👍👍

[@gregred78]

Very nice it looks like a great design and very practical.

[@Smallathe]

Cool lathe stop! :)

[@jackdawg4579]

That came out really good. small lathes are a pain to find somewhere that you can put a magnetic base and not be in the way. I often use my tail stock to hold my indicators. Best buy for me was my 25mm digital gauge. that little bit of extra travel over the standard 10mm units comes in handy a lot more than you might think. I also made a 150mm long reference plate that bolts to the back of my carriage I can use to run a dial gauge on, for similar reasons, there is no where easy on the small lathes to get a consistent reading. With the mag base on the tail stock and the gauge running on the reference plate I have my position at any point for nearly all my jobs. One day I will put on a DRO , but until then the plate works very well.

[@Pushyhog]

l will have extended bed kit wednesday from lil machine shop, now you might want one too. your motor idea still working and saved the lil lathe.

[@thehobbymachinistnz]

Well done! Again, nice work and good explanation throughout the video. Yes, you did get lucky with the 90 degrees V-ways angle. I'm currently making a steady rest for my Emco Maximat V10 lathe. Not only is the V-ways angle about 3 degrees over 90, but it is also about 3 degrees off perpendicular to the lathe bed. All the best from NZ.

[@jeffanderson4979]

Very well done

[@artisanmakes]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@OddsandEndsMachining]

Loving the volume of video output, you also don’t skimp on the quality, keep it up.

[@backyardmachinist]

Nice one. Looks very rigid. I use a 2" dial indicator placed on a stop to the right of my carriage. Might be useful on your lathe so you don't have to remove your way covers.

[@artisanmakes]

Definitely could be. Cheers

[@charlvanniekerk8009]

a beautiful video as always, Thanks for sharing! I would like to point out that a shim at the other end of the clamp might be useful for getting an even clamping force on the ways. I just noticed that the clamp seems to pivot at the screws position and leave a gap between the ways and its tip.

[@gilmoresacco4303]

Next project: magnetically attached way covers! It will make using this indicator holder easier :)

[@cho4d]

i really like this one even tho i probably will never own a lathe i like the design a lot.

[@msmith2961]

That came out real nice. Good design 👍

[@artisanmakes]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday, I really like your design, brilliant job as always mate, Cheers

[@jimsvideos7201]

The gap between the cross slide and the casting for the handwheel is a handy spot for gauge blocks if you need a stop on that axis.

[@realemonful]

Man, I wish I had access to tools like that!

[@tedan8116]

Very brillant

[@RedDogForge]

you sir are made if sterner stuff than I. hacksawing stock. man my arms tired just watching the vid :D

[@dylanschmidt4166]

Dude you crank shit out. Good work!

[@SaltCityFab]

Love the projects! Keep up the great work mate!

[@pawekowalski7469]

Great job. I am waiting for your band saw all the time, I cannot watch you cut such thick pieces by hand. 😀👍👍👍what country are you from? you have a special accent👍 Greetings from Poland Super robota. Ja cały czas czekam na piłę taśmową u ciebie, nie mogę patrzeć jak tniesz takie grube kawałki ręcznie. Pozdrawiam z Polski. z jakiego jesteś kraju? masz wyjątkowy akcent

[@thehobbymachinistnz]

I know exactly what you mean. I feel the energy draining from my arms when I see him using the hack saw on such thick pieces of steel. In one of his other videos I saw he upgraded to a grinder with a cut-off wheel. Maybe that is too noisy?

[@jamescopeland5358]

I like it

[@attepitkanen7358]

Nice video! Gotta make similar for my lathe, but ways on my lathe are way different.

[@Cenedd]

Very nice. A couple of mod suggestions for you. Firstly, another hole in the main body parallel to the indicator with a rod to act a carriage stop BEFORE it pushes the indicator far enough to break it when you forget it's there....no prizes for guessing! Secondly, you can buy (or make but the tap size is odd) extension rods for those indicators. That would let you set it on the right of the carriage so that you can still have your way cover installed. Obviously the indicator counts down instead of up but it's quite workable as long as you don't run out of travel on the indicator. Longer travel indicators help....until you destroy it by not following the first suggestion :D

[@user-dl1te2pf2d]

Все отлично. Не помешает ограничитель (болт ) для безопасности индикатора. Так, чтобы ограничение не позволяло сломать индикатор в крайнем левом положении суппорта (что то торчало правее ножки индикатора, когда ножка индикатора не может уже двигаться ). 👍

[@user-ds6qf2mv1q]

Хорошая идея

[@zukjeff]

same as mine but i used alloy. I use interference (heat) fit for this sort of job and don't weld. tap a 6mm metric hole parallel to the dial indicator hole so you can use a cap screw as an adjustable carriage stop.

[@iamnoone.]

I've seen you build some amazing things and now you need to build yourself a power hacksaw

[@unfies]

“The first thing we’ll do is drill two half inch holes about 25 millimeters apart.” Gotta love machinist KZbin

[@artisanmakes]

Gotta use the stock and reamers I have :)

[@THusbands]

Great video. Try to get a long travel indicator for extra precision on movement

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

nice..

[@deezworkshop]

This is a great design, Someday I would like to take your design and make one of these, Need to get a Mill and better skills but someday ill get one of these made.

[@mazchen]

Nice design! 13:10 pay attention that the upper part of the indicator pin doesn't touch the headstock or the pin might get squeezed and eventually bent!

[@artisanmakes]

yeah, for sure. Cheers

[@mikehoare6093]

this guy just loves his hacksaw....

[@garageofpower2891]

Might I recommend a 4 x 6 bandsaw as your next acquisition, they improve workshop life an enormous amount, and are worth every penny.

[@troyam6607]

just a tip when chamfering go slow with a sharp cutter and it'll be easier to get a great edge. thanks for reminding me to finish mine! good job!

[@WatchmakerErik]

"They work a lot better than the one I dropped on the floor a few years ago." I was expecting the next line to be, "I bought two, because I dropped one on the floor a few years ago."

[@philsmeanderings7991]

Made something not quite as nice as yours for my metal worker lathe. One major issue I found was the top part of the dial indicator shaft limited how close to the chuck I could get as it jammed up against the electrics box. (was trying a 25mm indicator) Still for work a bit further out was nice to have that precision as I do not have a DRO . Good watch as per the usual. Keep up the good work.

[@RedDogForge]

who else wants to see a collab project video between this fella, inheritance machinng, and this old tony?!

[@gagasmancave8859]

Something else added to my today list

[@mitmind]

Very Nice, but for measuring it's more convenient if you mounted on the back of the carriage. No burnings, and no need for disassemble cover's 👌🤓

[@goboyz8016]

Nice build. I am a bit concerned about the steel on steel where the angles meet your ways as it bites down. It may leave bite marks on the ways. Perhaps brass or something softer would relieve that issue. Unless you used some very soft steel which you may have and I didn't listen closely enough. Well done though.

[@artisanmakes]

Interesting thought. If it is an issue, it hasn't been one that has been flagged by other people who have built these. Cheers

[@donsundberg5730]

you could probably make a micrometer insert to go where your indicator goes. Or just make another one to hold a micrometer head.

[@em9594]

Next, turn a cheap pair of calipers into a budget DRO for the mini lathe!

[@martinchabot_FR]

A lathe stop with a micrometer head is very handy also

[@luisermert]

I can reccomend putting some oil on the sawblade when you´re cutting steel with the handsaw. Its much easier that way

[@mrc1539]

Nice project, Find it hard to believe that you don’t have a power hacksaw. 🤔 !

[@juhajuntunen7866]

Or cutting in lathe by parting tool or milling machine by slitting saw, he has both of them. Maybe hacksaw is his trademark.

[@robfrancis8830]

I see the benefit of top access screw but will the hole fill up with swarf? I been debating against a harder to access bottom screw with a blind bottom. Great work as always

[@tinker5349]

Hi interesting and a well make project, would it be a good idea to drill a small hole in the way cover or better to remove it when using your attachment like that ? looks more like the cover for the control box is where the hole should be ?

[@ChikitoPOWA]

Maybe use strong magnets for holding the waycover in place? Could be useful for cleaning too!

[@bluejayfabrications2216]

It would just attract swarf but it's not a bad idea

[@nickwolfe483]

Thank you for slowing down your spindle speed for reaming, one time I saw you reaming at a pretty fast speed and it was painful to watch.

[@priority2]

Love your videos! I’ve learned so much as a newbie, self-taught machinist. Do yourself a favor and buy a portaband saw 😊

[@nerddub]

just drill a small clearance hole for the back travel of the indicator stem

[@karlmansson8319]

On using it as a hard stop: using it like this you have to choose between being able to measure the travel and having a hard stop. If you add a treaded rod or dowel pin with set screw, you'll be able to measure travel up to your planned depth, screw the stop out to contact the carriage and then lock the thread down. Either with a jam nut or a split cotter system. Since the travel of the indicator bottoms out before you make hard contact now, you'll have to shoose between the two.

[@artisanmakes]

for sure, but im not planning on using it as a stop in the foreseeable future. This is mostly an indicator holder, but it is a great point.

[@bigcat.3256]

You could add a little hole in your cover for the indicator if you use it a lot. Just make a little cap for it.

[@artisanmakes]

I probably won't do enough set up work to justify cutting up my way cover. Cheers

[@stevenhintz5508]

Every time I watch one of your videos I think, he’s not really going to cut that with a hacksaw is he? Good job on the stop/holder.

[@martinolesen9930]

Hello Sir, i really like your videos, it teach me a lot, but one thing, i really wish for you to have a metal band saw, they are not very expensive......and you saw a lot! 😀😀😂

[@donggukpak]

What’s the spec for the slitting saw and the arbor you used? Thanks for the awesome video!

[@artisanmakes]

It's a 50mm saw attached to a 20mm Arbor. I made it in a video a while back

[@donggukpak]

@@artisanmakes Thanks! Will check it out

[@glennwright9747]

I would like to know how you measured the V … as close as I can tell my machine is not quite 90 but I don’t have it measured accurately yet. I am fumbling with measurements!

[@FrancisoDoncona]

You need to add a physical stop like a bolt because when you bottom out the gauge it will be destroyed.

[@anthonyflores9846]

You should mass produce this dude! Just for the mini lathes cause I need one! How much would you charge? Would you send me one with pre paying? Also would like something cross slide. I have no way of mounting or using magnetic indicators

[@NickShl]

I wondering what happen if you throw carriage using automatic feed to this stop... it would be nice to improve mechanism to make it disengage half nut if carriage hit stop.

[@artisanmakes]

You would probably stall the motor or beak a gear, but I wouldn't want to test that :)

[@lolzlarkin3059]

The only downside to allen heads on top is getting swarf in them.

[@AdamS-nd5hi]

Rather than removing the way cover every time you wanna use it, drill a hole in it where the top of your gauge is hitting on it. itll always be aligned with that same spot!!

[@lslslslslslslsl1]

I was thinking "nice he both mitutoyo". then realised nvm, they just copyed the box

[@roboman2444]

What is the name of the tool you use to find the edges? @ 3:24

[@artisanmakes]

Edge finder

[@murraypaulson]

You must have BICEPS of steel!!! The first thing I did in my shop was to get a cut off bandd saw. I am a wimp...

[@gvet47]

I 3D printed my first carriage stop but it just did not hold up out of PLA. Second was out of aluminum cause that is what I had. If you get tired of this one send it my way,.🤣

[@artisanmakes]

Yeah for sure :)

[@teropiispala2576]

What's the thing with the hacksaw, is it some sort of joke? I mean considering all the machines you have, it seems little unbalanced to cut everything with handsaw. I have 200€ bandsaw and it have worked well.

[@deckum23]

Are those fo mitutoyo's?

[@an2thea514]

Well, I once bought Dial Indicators from Paulimot and they cam in exactly the same box, sooo

[@randyshoquist7726]

I noticed that the box color and graphics are pretty similar to Mitutoyo. There's a lot of talk about counterfeit Mitutoyo calipers, but these DIs don't claim to be.

[@artisanmakes]

No, just no name imports that I bought from my engineering supply store.

[@MaksimoV35]

с таким оборудованием и дрючить железку ножовкой это что то...))