Can I Use a Charger With the Same Voltage but Different Amperage Rating?

[@askleonotenboom]

Volts and amps combine to confuse. Understanding how they work can help clear it up.

[@jmstaudacher]

Thanks Leo!!

[@chinmayamalik5849]

Thank you, Sir. Respect from India

[@ogasama6028]

About wiggle room, Can I use a 250V 10A charger as a replacement for 220V 5A charger?

[@askleonotenboom]

@@ogasama6028 Those are the charger's line/input numbers. Usually lots of flexibility there. What matters most is the output that's going in to the device you're charging. Those numbers are important.

[@obeyr8232]

One of the confusion questions we asked regarding choosing power connector

[@timsmith2525]

"Amperage is drawn, not pushed." That's the clearest explanation I have ever heard. Thank you!

[@JoshuaTrenge]

Yes.. I never understood this… until now. Thanks Leo!

[@register1lalit]

Same here 😀

[@jwilliamsrancourt]

"voltages must match and amperage must either match or exceed that required by the device" -- concise and practical, thank you!

[@TheSlyProfessor]

I am a college music professor looking to teach this subject in class and you explained it perfectly. I’ve been searching for an explanation like this for a long time. Thank you!

[@katierose1893]

6:17 That "center negative" or "center positive" polarity diagram for barrel connectors was so helpful! I looked at the brick part of the adapter and it was right there! In plain sight!! Many thanks!

[@wilhard45]

Well done. My Elmer who coached me for my general license presented voltage and amperage in virtually the same fashion. He has been a silent key for nearly 30 years but listening to you brought back my memories of him. It is odd that something so simple confuses so many people. I now find myself eager to watch more of your videos. 73's

[@rinleeds]

This is the best video I have ever seen explaining this is super simple terms. Thank you so much

[@rasmusrge1560]

Thank you, sir. Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication...!

[@abdulbasitdalvi3963]

A lucid and to the point explanation. Loved it. Keep up the good work.

[@BruceG888]

This is by far the best explanation of this topic that I have found. Well done, and thanks.

[@guymaninu]

2:11 I was coerced into subscribing. He was answering questions I didn’t know I wanted to know the answers to. Now I know them both. I think he put knowledge in my brain before I could decide if I wanted it in there 😂

[@michelpapineau8868]

Thank you for making this! This is exactly what I was looking for. Super helpful and well done.

[@JoshuaTrenge]

My wife brought home a Samsung Freestyle Projector… from her clients trash! (Worth about $300). It didn’t work but I noticed it had an 9v Apple charger with it. I bought the correct Samsung 20v charger and it works like a champ. Knowledge is power… or in this case.. money!

[@dansanger5340]

At the risk of confusing things further, it might help some people with an analogy to demystify what voltage and current (amps) are. The analogy isn't perfect, but helpful in some situations. The analogy is with water in pipes and hoses. Voltage is analogous to water pressure (PSI or Pascals). Current is analogous to flow of water (gallons per minute or liters per minute). The computer is analogous to an "appliance," such as a lawn sprinkler, that you attach to a faucet with a garden hose. And, the power supply is analogous to the faucet connected to the garden hose, limiting the flow of water (current) that goes to the sprinkler. That's why the water pressure (voltage) has to match what the lawn sprinkler can handle. If the water pressure is extremely high, then it might blow out the sprinkler, damaging it. If the water pressure is lower than the sprinkler is designed for, then the sprinkler doesn't operate correctly, dribbling water out and probably not rotating as designed. The results are similar if the flow of water supplied is less than what the sprinkler needs and is designed for.

[@quebrandomitos5910]

this analogy just explain the voltage part of the thing not amperage. And actually I believe you are referring to wats and not volts in this analogy.

[@jaimerios8092]

FINALLY I UNDERSTOOD,THANK YOU! IT CANNOT BE CLEARER.

[@tomwatson283]

Excellent. Only just seen this video. Very clearly explained, and best explanation I've seen. Can't understand why other videos have to complicate things.

[@dannyschacht4274]

Thank you for educating me to this question that I've had forever.

[@IndyJay53]

This is so helpful and easy to remember! Maybe now I can trim down the pile of various old usb chargers I have lying around too.

[@terryshipe609]

I just watched this video and would like to add that if you are reading the specs directly off the charger, make sure to take notice of whether it is rated AC or DC output. Make sure the charger and the device are the same type.

[@morniclegreen3534]

Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. Very helpful

[@nathenholzl6970]

Thanks for your time I've been working in electronics for a long time. And this is the first clarification I've really heard

[@rushikeshkurhade12]

short and simple and elegant explanation , thank you

[@cars654]

Also important is to plug the power supply into the device first and then into the wall outlet to avoid a surge that could damage your device. When your done unplug the power supply from the wall outlet and then unplug from the device being used.

[@timharig]

I have to disagree with that. Power supplies, whether linear or switching contain reactive elements (coils and capacitors). When the power supply first turns on, those devices go through a transient period while they reach a steady state. It is during that transient period that anything bad could happen such as inductive voltage spikes that could potentially damage a device. Likewise, when the device loses power, it again goes from a steady state to a transient state while the reactive devices discharge. Once it has reached a steady state, it will regulate the voltage normally. The WORST that could happen while it is running steady state is that the device attempts to draw to much instantaneous power as might happen during the transient while the device is first plugged in. When that happens, the output capacitor buffering the voltage (present on any kind of related power supply) will be drained too quickly causing drop in voltage -- if the power supply isn't designed to be able to handle the power. A drop in voltage might disrupt the device for a moment; but, it will not damage the device the way that a voltage spike could. So in theory, to be as safe as possible, you should always plug the power supply in first and then plug the device into the power supply once it has reached steady state. Likewise, disconnect the device and then unplug the power supply so that it is not subject to any during shutdown transients. In reality, none of this should be important. A well engineered power supply should be designed to effectively filter the transients or to inhibit voltage output until the transients have subsided. That is why some higher power supplies with large active components may take take a few seconds to power on. When they do, you will hear the click of a relay enabling the power output. That relay is timed based on the length of time that the circuit transient needs to subside. So as long as you purchase power supplies from reputable brands, you shouldn't have any trouble. After all, what would happen during a power glitch? Your power supply and device would have to through power down and then power up transients. If you buy a cheap chinesium power supply from EBay, the engineers might not have spent enough time designing around the transients.

[@cars654]

Jumble of B.S. I have been working in electronics for over 50 years. Worked on everything from radar, ICP, GCMS,ICPMS and have seen many devices powered by the beloved WALL WART destroyed by not proper plug in sequence. But this is what you can expect form a theory guy who has never worked in the real world. I guess I was not specific enough ! Have you ever seen a circuit board loaded with CMOS chips get destroyed by static electricity. Switching power supplies cannot handle transient spikes. It may be better now but in the 80s and 90s. We had to replace 5 power supplies in GCMS units because of power surge. Go online and see all of the power line conditioners on the market as well as C.V.T. units for 120, 220 and 440 volt three phase ! Equipment costing 100k or more with power supplies from CHINA that are amazing if the last 5 years !@@timharig

[@DarioBarrosFilmmaker]

needed to refresh my memory, thanks Leo :) quick and easy

[@gershwyndaniels3903]

I watch a few different IT guys. Each of them are different. But you Leo.......... You really take us to class..

[@AkaSarp]

I was on my computer and looking for an answer for this subject, you explained it simple and easy to understand that i had togot my phone to like, subscribe and comment on the video. Thank you soo much. 🙏

[@TylerAlderson]

Damn man, this is the clearest explanation I've ever heard in my life

[@marwanbenayedi4511]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and time 😊

[@bernardomacara6284]

hey thanks leo, i always had this doubt about the amperage, thank you

[@Greg-vq9tu]

He’s a joy to watch and listen to. Not bad looking either 😊. Thank you for sharing this video in such an easy to understand way ❤

[@askleonotenboom]

Thank you!

[@javiersidel4794]

Thanks, man. I learned a lot with this video. You are the best!

[@風繼續吹-w2m]

sir...the way you explain is so great...you keep repeating the importance point..which it had deep eatching deep in my memory..thank

[@nfpnone8248]

Sure you can use a charger with the same voltage and different amperage rating, it will charge at a different rate, but it will still charge. What is voltage, what is current? They actually go together, it might be what’s stamped on the device, but it’s the thing that is being charged that determines the current voltage relationship. You put a load on the battery and current will flow based upon the resistance within the device you are charging, but it’s the voltage that matters and determines how much current will flow. So as long as you don’t exceed the voltage rating for the device, only the current based upon the internal resistance will flow.

[@JustOneCalorieNotEvilEnough]

Thank you do much for the refresher. It's been a while since my tinkering days of yore, and I needed to confirm a variable output on a buck box. Since W (P) is drawn, the equations imply that A (I) are drawn as well. But as my grandfather said, measure twice, cut once.

[@brianclark8052]

Great information. Thank you. This is why KZbin can be such a powerful learning aid, but it does not work without the support of professional like you.

[@JimE6243]

Thanks Leo! I learned something again. Always was confused about the amperage thing. JimE

[@duuude21]

I could like the video 10000000 times if possible... you are the best!

[@MarinongInhinyero]

Thank Sir Leo, You explain everything i want want to hear.

[@TangibleTania]

Thank you...this has made what I have learned even clearer. Very nice video.

[@praxisdev1884]

All questions answered. Thank you so much.

[@missjoycevega]

Thank you for your explanation! Helped a lot.

[@sightlines9293]

Thanks Leo. Just the info I have been looking for.

[@TheDonMan97]

Damn! This was spot on! Thank you

[@samplify17]

You've explained very well!

[@PeteBuchwald]

Good tip on the polarity. Thanks for all this info. I admit that I only skimmed this video looking to answer my primary question, but am wondering if AC vs DC is discussed, sometimes I see "switching."

[@eondiax]

Thank you sir, your explanation is very clear and easy to understand. It really helps.

[@judderman333]

Thank you sir, you have explained this so well. I have taken this in, very helpful.

[@squidlad]

Thanks so much for this. Really succinct and easy to understand.

[@winterfrost2990]

Wowwww, i love this man explaining things.❤❤❤❤

[@RT-mn2pb]

Volts are a push. Amps or watts are a pull. Yup. Good video.

[@swesleyharris]

Thank you, this was so helpful !

[@onkelhiphop]

Thank you so much this was really easy to understand keep up the good work🤘😎

[@when-ali]

Straight to the point.. excellent!..

[@-AishwaryaKadam]

Thanks for nice and clear explanation. My confusion is solved. Regards.

[@adrianmaravilla7068]

Thank you so much sir, I am grateful to you, with this I can finally finish a project, and solve a doubt I had for years.

[@tsepomoloi4410]

Thank you, very informative

[@jeromearanas4050]

I almost bought a new charging brick with a lower amp rating for one of my devices. Thanks for the clear explanation.

[@johnnash4420]

Oops....... the specified voltage on a transformer is the correct voltage when the current being drawn is at the specified maximum of the transformer. If you are using a device which requires 5V 1amp and you use a transformer which can supply 5V 2amp, then the actual output voltage applied to the device will be greater (significantly) than the specified 5V. Case in point: My laptop requires 5V 1amp. When using any 5V 2amp transformer, my laptop charging goes completely haywire! After changing to a 5V 1amp charger the laptop charging is exactly as it should be. I've been using the 5V 1amp charger for two years now and my laptop with the 5V 1amp charger has not missed a beat!

[@askleonotenboom]

"a transformer which can supply 5V 2amp, then the actual output voltage applied to the device will be greater (significantly) than the specified 5V." This is absolutely false. It should produce 5V regardless. Something else is going on.

[@NALTOHQ]

I needed to know this, as im getting some Vtech consoles and Vtech power adapters are INSANELY hard to find or expensive.

[@jonesen7792]

I fucking love this video. It answers the question so clearly I'm unlikely to ever need to watch it again. But I will be subscribing. Thank you!

[@AshishKumar-os3gw]

I have a question, please answer it - My mobile's charger output says 3 different values are: 5V 3A/9V 2A/12V 1.4A (it's a fast charger) and I have a smartwatch and earbuds both needs to be input of 5V 2A. Now the question is that can I use that charger to charge these devices or should I use 5V 2A charger only?

[@askleonotenboom]

Should be fine. It's a USC-C smart charger.

[@MrHadimajed]

This was super helpful and informative,thanks sir!

[@GustavoMsTrashCan]

Very well explained. Thank you sir.

[@stephencshapiro]

Great explanation. Thank you!

[@pdab4372]

Great explanation and video.

[@Maine307]

thank u! man this can get confusing. than you soo much! even here in 2022, this still helped me greatly

[@tiddlypom2097]

Thanks this is such a good explanation!

[@zxc-is1ln]

Thanks Sir! Such a great help, thanks a lot again!

[@danishsarwar6066]

Very good and helpful video👍👍👍❤️

[@d42]

Thanks for clearing it up a bit. But I still am a bit confused. I am looking for a 9V and 2A charger. I found some that support 9V and 3A so by your explanation it's fine. But this exact same charger also supports 6V and 12V. So 3 different voltages. You can't tell the charger which one to use. Can I assume it just knows what to do?

[@askleonotenboom]

No. It sounds like it might be a special purpose charger intended for specific devices. If you can't tell it what to use, I'd not trust it to use the right one.

[@richardl6751]

Many have a switch to select the voltage.

[@em1860]

Same problem here. I have a device that requires 5v/2a i have a Samsung super fast charger that reads 5v/3a; 9v/3a; etc... I don't know if it'll work or not for the device. You can't select voltage on it. Just a basic Samsung phone charger. I don't get it.

[@London_Hacks]

Thanks 👏👏👏👏 Voltage Must Match 💥amps only drawn not pushed 🎉🎉🎉🎉

[@user-iy6rm6pm4j]

I have an external HD that only specifies volts (12) and the DC symbol (dashed lines). No indication of amps or polarity on the device, in the manual, or on manufacturer's website. Fortunately, I found an image of the charger for the model on line. But what does it mean if a device doesn't give you all the necessary information? Are there default values?

[@askleonotenboom]

There aren't really default values that I know of.

[@bastianagi7778]

Really good explanation

[@joncamp9126]

If it’s lithium ion that you are charging I thought it shortens the life of a battery the higher the amperage charger you use. I’ve had the notion that when charging a lithium battery the slower the charge the longer the overall life of the battery. Is any of this true. Thanks! I appreciate this video!

[@ourmundo]

Wow! This was an amazing answer!

[@georgezibra1309]

Hello Leo! i have a situation that i am not sure if these comply! i have created a power supply to charge a 5S Lithium battery that needs 21 volts to fully charge, i have manage to fix the voltage exactly 21 volts, knowing that it will never meet exactly the full charge but its ok, But my problem is that the amperage is a little more than 5 amps...and as we know , lithium batteries must not exceed 1,16 amps while charging , but i have 5 in series, will it distribute nicely or having them in series make it one battery? Will it be sustainable to charge 5 amps at 21 volts a 5S 1P battery? Thank you in advance for your answer! Geozibra!

[@tao6775]

Very helpful, thanks!

[@inodaz]

I have a quick question if you could answer. What if a charging block is rated at an amperage amount that is higher than the power providing source? For example, rating of power supply is 32amps but the power being supplied is rated 24amps both have 240V. This is specific to my level 2 EV charging situation.

[@askleonotenboom]

Addressed in the video. As long as the power supply is rated higher than that needed by the device being charged, all is well.

[@bingosunnoon9341]

You must be a saint to answer these comments

[@chona123]

Thak you! Big queston with clear answer.

[@A4Avner]

Thanks, great explanation! clear & comprehensive. Question though, about 6:15 into your video you delve into polarity. What is the standard? center positive or negative & why would a vendor not use the standard, other than sheer hubris?

[@askleonotenboom]

In my experience there's no real standard. Center positive seems the most common, BUT it's not something you can count on.

[@aldrinpatricio5230]

Thanks Leo

[@ChaoticMuchX]

thank you leo, very informative

[@rodeoman2751]

Dear Leo i hope you can help me. I am in the UK. I have an Alfred Cam Plus outdoor security camera, it is powered by a C charger cable that goes in to a power charger/ adapter. Written on the adapter is the following: input 100-240V ~ 50/60Hz 0.25A max Output 5v --- 1000mA What I want to know is what is the 0.25A max? And is that an important factor when looking for a new charger/adapter as my adaper is broken and I cant seem to find one with exactly the same figures as the ones above. The camera itself has a label underneath that says 5V --- 1A Ive been told that any phone charger such as samsung or iphone would work but i dont want to fry it lol... could you please advise me? Thank you

[@askleonotenboom]

5V-1A is what you care about. That's the power being provided to your device. The 0.25A is a measure of the max power that would be drawn from your line/wall socket power.

[@rodeoman2751]

@askleonotenboom Hi Leo, thank you for the fast reply... so as long as the new adapter I buy has the output of 5v --- 1000mA it will be ok? I have Samsung phone chargers with that output, so I can use one of them without fear of over heating the security cam?

[@hanif6313]

I agree that your explanation is absolutely correct. However, product descriptions of my mouse device, which is rechargeable, said that the output current of the charging adapter cannot be higher than 500mA. What do you think about this?

[@askleonotenboom]

I could see a device designed that way for some reason. Seems like a bad design, but that's why I harp so hard on it being dependent on the quality of the devices involved.

[@hanif6313]

@@askleonotenboom So, I have to find an adapter with 5V and 500mA, right? Does a USB connector of my laptop provide exactly 500mA?

[@askleonotenboom]

@@hanif6313 If it's labelled that it can't be connected to something over 500mA (which I've never heard of, by the way), then that's what I'd do. USB 2 ports on laptops are supposed to be 500ma, but I believe that changed with USB 3. I would really double check that the mouse really has that restriction.

[@hanif6313]

@@askleonotenboom It's strange to me too. Maybe because it's a Chinese product, the translation wasn't done correctly or there's some ambiguity in the text. The text is 'The output current of the charging power adapter cannot be higher than 500mA.' Anyway, thank you for the guidance you provided

[@kaleaazzahra5240]

niceee very helpful

[@RoastedSaltedPeanut]

This was so helpful! I went through a bunch of videos but couldn't make it past rhe 5 minute mark. I just wanted ti know if i can use my laptop charger to charge my phone. Thank you 🙏🙏

[@cesartrevejo6562]

Question i have a hauppauge 9100. It says 5volts no amps specific . Can i use a generic 5 volt output with 1 amp adapter.

[@ikea_effect]

I have old toy charger, it's 3,6V and 500mA. Do I dare to use this to power 3,3 volt sensors?

[@askleonotenboom]

No idea. Could be OK, could destroy the sensors.

[@ikea_effect]

@askleonotenboom very helpful. Thank you and goodbye.

[@chaosparticles]

Thank you so much! Very clear

[@mihaidandu4382]

Hello , i have a question regarding one of your videos. The question is : If i connect the drill Charger directly to the drill without charger (The charger 12 and the drill 12v) The drill will work normal, as if it had a battery? Thank you!

[@askleonotenboom]

No idea. Maybe? Probably? There's no way for me to know for sure, since it depends on the specific devices involved.

[@G1SUNPLANT]

Thank you my friend!

[@marvingutierrez1232]

Thank you for making it clear. 👍

[@Cyberfoxxy]

Can I power multiple with devices with one supply? Let's say I cut and split the wire. If the voltage is equal and the sum input amperage is covered that sounds useable. But what would you do if there are different devices with different voltages. Can a resistor be put to drop the voltage? What is this kind of setup called? I'm planning on an iot project and got about 6 of these bricks in a very confined space.

[@askleonotenboom]

It is possible, but I don't recommend it. I've done something similar: I have a bunch of radios that charge on 12v, and one silly pair that requires 9v. I purchased a 12v->9v converter. It's not as simple as just adding a resistor.

[@TheZolja007]

Thanks, nicely explaind for us how are new in this 🙂

[@sunny100bd]

Thank Leo. I'm helped, got my answer

[@MuhammadAzhar-wl1ti]

May i know about the watt? This is for my monitor adapter. I found something almost similar to original adapter but the original only 65w. And from the shop is 90w. Can you help me here? Thanks

[@thomasstambaugh5181]

Watt = volts x amps. The 90w adapter should work fine (so long as it provides the same voltage). The adapter provides power, the monitor consumes power. In order for the monitor to work correctly, the adapter must provide at least as much power as the monitor requires. A 90 w adaptor provides 90 watts. That is 25 watts more than the original adapter. It is important that the VOLTAGE of the replacement adapter be the same as the voltage of the original. If the original 65 watt adapter provided 24 volts, then it was rated at 2.7 amps (65/24 = 2.7). The replacement adapter should offer the same voltage as the original, 24 v in this example. A 90w adapter at 24v can therefore provide 3.75 a (90/24 = 3.75). As the video explains, this should be fine.

[@jasonhapke]

You are definitely the best at explaining it all 100%. Now I have a e scooter needs 54.6v but I only can get a 54.5v. I thinking have the answer but can you tell me yes or no if I should be ok to use this, the parameters are the same.

[@askleonotenboom]

As outlined in the video there's no way for me to know. Maybe? Depends on the quality of the devices involved.

[@zippy2641]

Can I use an AC power supply/converter to charge a 1000w LiFePO4 solar power station into it's (5521) DC INPUT? (the AC invertor is dead, but all else works fine) The spec on the DC input is: 12-30V 7A 200W Max. The port is actually provided to enable you to charge the power station while your driving you car. It has a cable with a 5521 male plug on one end, and a male cigarette plug on the other. If this can work, what configuration should I get for a power supply? Any help on this is greatly appreciated.

[@petersignorino3763]

I have an everstart jumpstarter. The charger that came with it is 19vdc 500mA. I have a laptop charger that is 19v and just shy of 5A. Why do I smell smoke when I plug it in? The voltage is the same. The amps are more. The wattage is high, but I don't understand the problem after watching this video