Assembling the Forward Clutch: Mopar A727 Rebuild #6

[@MichaelJohnson-cm4wp]

What I like about your build series here on the 727 is there is no yap yap..Also the appropriate video speed up of mundane events like dropping in the clutches into the drum.. You are doing excellent work!! Going to be rebuilding my trans from a 73 Winnebago with the 727 and 440 engine..

[@rodneybyrd9516]

I have had good luck not polishing or scuffing a used drum. In my experience, the slicker the surface, the better the band RELEASES on the 2-3 shift. I agree that it will help a new band seat quicker! I use a cast band core and have them relined with red or Kevlar depending on application. 3.8-4.2 lever or 5.0 in special builds. It's builder preference, but I do my springs "2-1-2-1-2-1" instead of "3-3-3", but I use AT LEAST 9 as you did. Thanks for the video!

[@rodneybyrd9516]

For a better shift to 3rd, with a cast band, I use a flat retaining spring instead of wavy, but use .090-.120" clearance. Works in 727s and 518/RE units for HP use.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Great info, thanks!

[@KerbyLopez-l2j]

Usted es un verdadero Maestro gracias por compartir sus conocimientos saludos desde VENEZUELA

[@alfredorhs]

thank you for you time man 👍👍👍👍G video 👍👍 you saved me

[@KerbyLopez-l2j]

Nonse sinme podrá leer en español,pero dejo mi comentario usted es un verdadero Maestro, gracias por compartir sus conocimientos

[@ddogmog]

Hey Yoshimoshi - man... At the end of this video... In your book... (hard to see the top of the page) It shows 2 sets of #'s for the forward clutch clearance. I know u point at the 2nd set of clearances (at the very right of the page) and you say out loud ".082 to 1.51 as the page reads. My clearances come closer to those first set of #'s (to left of the clearance #'s you quoted) Are those #'s for a 904? My clearance #'s for my particular 727 that was manufactured in 71' was .077 on the old used clutch pack. The new clutch pack installed and tested like you did w/ air gun... are at .067 I used the thinnest metal discs I have. What do u think please? PS the old trans worked fine. But the old clutches and bands did look pretty worn. Awe man... I guess I want you to say "close enough" but I think I know the answer already - Make it right w/ thinner metal discs. I'll see if I can buy some. Somewhere. Still, I'd like to hear your opinion on this oddity. Thanks bro.

[@dginia]

On the older drum you did not comment that the outer surface needs to be flat for the band to work properly. Also, the old bushing should be replaced. I would love to mess around with something like this, but afraid too many details would get missed. Thanks for showing this to us.

[@stevefaltis8989]

So many lessons I also k earned about these units…Too easy

[@mimaspa1234]

hi when i took apart the forward clutch i only saw 5 springs. ??? i see you pulled out 9 springs. Any reason as to why.. my 727 is date coded 1967

[@jedlikestrains7599]

Where did you get those frictions, I’m currently trying to rebuild the transmission in my mail jeep, and I want to reduce slipping.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Cobra Transmission

[@elweroe1153]

a question in that clutch what changes are coming?

[@brianb5779]

I do have a question, setting up the clearance dry, how much (if any) does soaking them change. Curious if your measurement is borderline when its dry then if it would be out of spec with them soaked.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Makes zero difference in what I've seen

[@brianb5779]

@YoshimoshiGarage Appreciate it alot, thank you. Do you use Atf-4? I tired pausing the video and blowing it up but couldnt tell. Thank you again

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

With the age of this, I just used Dexron like it had when it was made back in the day

[@brianb5779]

@YoshimoshiGarage Gotcha, thank you. Doing a street strip build and wasnt sure what to use

[@brianb5779]

So going by all the performance shops recommending the thicker inner lip seal due to higher pressures will typically blow past the stock seal. I have had a complete nightmare trying to get piston in. I ended up using my spring compressor to push it down but think i jacked it up going by the air test (everything operates but can see some fluid spit out. Have you done it or have any tips on getting piston in. All the ability to typically rock and push with the small lip seal is gone w the bigger lip. Any idears??

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Shim stock or a thin feeler gauge between the seal and housing when you're seating it, maybe. Well lubed and run it around the piston a few times and I'd think the lip would seat

[@kennethcoble269]

and how much did you have machined off of the top plate to gain clearance for the extra sttel and clutch disc ??

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

I actually didn't measure it. I just eyeballed it to about half the thickness of the original.

[@samhicks97]

So the tradeoff with thinner clutches being in the stock drum is that the life of the clutches are less, but you have more clutches so instead you increase the life of the clutches? & get more clutch "Grab"? While the thicker clutches in place, less clutch material but increased life of clutches because it's thicker? I know what i stated above is a bit confusing but am i just overthinking it? Or do these 2 methods cancel out each other due to the clutch thickness/clutch count being the main driving factor? Also are there thinner steels that can be purchased or going thinner is not wise? Thanks.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

There are thinner steels as well, yes, but not a lot thinner. If you add in more clutches, the overall clutch surface area in the clutch pack goes up, so the force being transferred gets spread across a larger area, resulting in better holding/less slipping. That leads to less wear as well as the ability to hold more force in general.. You can also get them in tougher materials like kevlar to reduce wear. More clutches probably increases life a bit (depends on how you drive), but is especially an improvement if you have more power running through the trans, or if you have a shift kit that's slapping them together harder all the time.

[@samhicks97]

@@YoshimoshiGarage Thanks, that put things in perspective better. Appreciate the response.

[@samhicks97]

Question: what clutch thickness did you settle for while getting more than the stock 4 clutch setup? I'm trying to get the thickest clutches to maximize clutch life. I noticed there are clutch thickness ranging from 0.62, 0.89? 0.92. What thickness would you select if on a daily driver? Thanks.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

I used 0.62. They are thinner, but you get more of them, so the total area of clutch/steel contact is much larger. That makes for more friction and less wear per clutch.

[@samhicks97]

@@YoshimoshiGarage ok, thanks again for the swift reply.

[@snakeoil24snake3]

would you tell me how much i need to machine the pressure plate please

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

It depends on the clutches and steels you have. Roughly half of it. Do maybe 1/3, assemble and measure the gap, then go from there.

[@snakeoil24snake3]

@@YoshimoshiGarage thank you your a real help! So cut into it 1/3 and 1/3 thinner?

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Yes

[@billcat1840]

Make it .120 thick on the edge and go in .150..that's the dimensions on a stock ribbed clutch pressure plate

[@troydspain1099]

Is there an inner seal??

[@stevefaltis8989]

I built at least 100 of these over the years, it’s overkill

[@WhenICanGamer]

What Rebuild manual are you using? I see a few of them on amazon. Any recommendations? Thanks!

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

I'm using the ASTG manual. amzn.to/3gaO0wE

[@brianb5779]

Just saying appreciate the videos brother, but dont be surprised if i throw some questions at ya here n there. Thanks again

[@Ronin6534]

More springs better hold

[@1959nickd]

front clutch not foward

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Good call, and thanks!

[@Ozarkprepper643]

👍

[@1959nickd]

forward

[@TheProchargedmopar]

👍💪

[@westernapache1700]

Didn’t replace the inner seal? Oops.