Assembling the Heart of your Buick / Rover V8 Racing Engine, the Oil Pump! I show you how to Win!

Today I finally assemble the V6 Buick Oil Pump and Timing Cover for our Southeast Gassers Association Super Stock Buick Small Block Project. I take you step by step on how I assemble it using regular tools and plasti-gauge. It was literally the toughest video I've shot as it took hours to assemble but edited down to 30 minutes.

[@douggorton1482]

I like all the things you do to set clearances. I use a device to pre pressure the hole oil system instead of Vaseline.

[@67L-88]

That's quite a bit of work! Thanks for showing us how it's done!

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

You bet!

[@waynebuzzell2483]

That's a very helpful video Dallas. Love your new show.

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

Glad it was helpful!

[@spacecat7247]

Watching. Thankyou for the detailed breakdowns.

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

Thanks for watching!

[@spacecat7247]

@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 always. You've got great info and the love for the machines. The love is what matters.

[@rickkings2071]

Thanks Dallas!

[@Jupitermustangmike]

This is an informative video 👍I like this series / thanks🐎

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@Jupitermustangmike]

@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 I know how it is to be a perfectionist and film the vids/ its great to see you do the gaskets like that with the silicone/ the thin film/my dad taught me to soak the old cork and paper type gaskets in oil / I talk about my dad like you talk about your dad / I like that the most ✌

[@possiblycrazy442]

Just found the channel. Thank you so much for taking the effort to share this stuff online! I have a '76 (I'm told) Buick 350 in my Regal and I'm trying to gear up for a rebuild. (It's blowing a lot of smoke out of the right tail pipe and the engine sounds like a drizzling faucet inside when I shut it down.) While the engine is out I'm also looking to improve the oiling system and solve the Automatic-to-Manual swap crank mystery. (As to whether or not the automatic crank can take a pilot bushing without machine work.) Here's hoping I can get many more years of cruising and autocross. Thanks again. Loved your content with Tony.

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

Thanks for watching the channel! The drizzling faucet noise is likely a "Normal" sound. That is the oil returning to the oil pan through the drain holes in the lifter valley when the engine is immediately shut off and listened to. It normally happens when its running as well, but is so loud that you cannot hear the drizzle. If it stops within a few minutes, it is defiantly normal. As far as the smoke out of the right tail pipe, try a compression test first and see if it's the rings or the valve guides. Buicks are notorious for eating the valve guides. You may just get by with having your cylinder heads rebuilt and she will be running like new!

[@possiblycrazy442]

@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 Thank you! I'll start with a compression test. It would be great if I don't need to tear down the short block just yet. I may still dive into changing over to a TA front cam bearing though. I've had a tick on the driver's side for 9 years, and have already had to change the cam and lifters once. Long story but my lunch break is over. Thanks again, man!

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

@@possiblycrazy442 Ticking from the drivers side could easily be a valve train issue, but it also leads to more questions since that is the side fed directly by the crossover in the camshaft.It may not be getting enough oil to the drivers side of the engine or could be as simple as the rockers being excessively worn out... which I doubt in a 76, since the rockers were stamped steel at that point and I do not generally see them worn excessively. The 70-73 cast aluminum ones wear the shaft something terrible. I just took a set of heads apart for a 350 and it had a broken rocker button on number 4 cylinder that caused excessive and uneven valve guide wear.

[@possiblycrazy442]

@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 The rockers should be okay. One of the first things that my Dad and I tried to quiet them down was replace the assemblies with a brand new set from TA. The old set was not aluminum and had no broken buttons, but we were both new to Buicks (as was the shop that supposedly rebuilt this engine for a guy that never claimed it). The pushrods did not match, which we did not find out until we went inside to change the cam. (A driver's side lifter failed and we lost a lobe.) So when we put new lifters in, we also went with a full set of adjustable pushrods from TA. I adjusted them and triple checked them, but we still had that tick on the driver's side. At this point I'm very tempted to tear it all down and investigate. My dad is really on the side of sending the heads somewhere to get them professionally sorted out, but I'm on a budget and don't know where to send them.

[@kevin2960]

Use the grooved cam bearings when you rebuild.

[@douggorton1482]

Most of us in the Buick community do not use the high volume gears unless running big internal clearances. My 455 runs 15 psi hot and 70 psi at 6200 rpm. This is a stock cover and pump with steel booster plate. Lots of mods of course. Bearings are .025 to .030. This motor is about 700 hp @ 10 pounds of boost.

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

My small blocks always get the hv pump, big block I leave stock.

[@dohnovenkerstetter6905]

Thanks for the vids, and the great information. Would this be a good thing to do to a daily driver Buick 340 running a small cam (isky 262), nothing else? I seen on TA perf. Website they say it might put more strain on the front cam bearing?

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

Yes, it can add more load to the front cam bearing if all you did was use the high volume pump. But after the opening of the passages increasing the volume capability of the pump, would decrease the pressure output of the pump, reducing the added load on the cam gear and #1 cam bearing. it's all a balancing act...pressure is directly related to volume, increase volume and pressure will reduce. It's all Boyles law. Check out the video I did when modifying the pump... it explains it all.

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

If it's a stock type engine and you are not racing it, your current setup will be fine. If it starts to have low idle oil pressure issues, even after changing oil viscosities, then do it!

[@dohnovenkerstetter6905]

@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 thanks for the reply, that makes since! I’ll check out your other videos!

[@HOCKENBERGER]

Hey Dallas glad you and I have the EZ 302 idea. I'm gonna start gathering some parts to make this a reality. Turns out I just happen to have a good set of Vortecs on my Monte SS right now, and they will be coming off soon. Gonna put it in front of a 91 Z28 world class T5 I was just gifted. With a 15lb wheel and 4.10 or 4.56 gear. Maybe a HOT/LT4 roller but with 1.52 rockers for .500" lift. And my current GM performance dual plane hi rise copy of RPM Edelbrock. Idk what it's going in. All your fault man. Lol

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

Yes, the EZ 302 is something I've been wanting to do for years. I really wanted to assemble it using stock GM parts like the LT4 Hot Cam Kit, vortec heads, 4 bolt 98 Roller block and then compare it to the original DZ 302 in a dyne battle. Always thought it would be an awesome thing to do since that DZ was so sought after... show people it's easier and more available to make the EZ 302 with the same results or better!

[@HOCKENBERGER]

@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 Yes I'm ALL OVER that concept!! I first read about the L99 when Chevrolet Race Shop built that yellow 55 with the hot rod L99 with the special grind roller cam and the LT1 heads. Got my wheels turning, but never got around to it. Now that I have the heads and intake, I'm gonna start searching for the crank and rods. The only grey area is the available 350 pistons to fit those heart shaped fast burn chambers to achieve any type of decent compression, especially with a HOT cam. Idk if a flat top will make even 9.0:1? I actually already have a new set of GM LT4 valve springs I never used. The long rod is what I think will make this thing perform. My Monte screams with those heads, with a very mild flat tappet and a 570 Vac Holley. Can't imagine a 302 with all that airflow and a stick trans with nice close ratios and that 2.95 1st!!

[@BrandonRosenstrauch]

Sorry if you answered this, but is this the same process as in the Buick 455? Is this the Oil Pump Booster Plate Kit from TA Performance? Thanks!

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

It’s a similar process. The booster plate is from Melling and can be bought from TA or at Summit or any other parts store. Same with a high volume oil pump kit, all made by Melling.

[@josheldridge3393]

Is there a way to contact the fellow on mr rodders garage if so i would like to contact him about some engine parts and so on so forth

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

Couldn’t you just leave your email on here and he would contact you if he felt so inclined?

[@vincentmarino9825]

Do you have a number I could call? Looong story short I have a Rover engine that I want to use the front end set up from the Buicks on. Would love to go over some of the finer details and questions I have if you have the time.

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

Call the American Hot Rod Association Office and I'll get ya taken care of.

[@adamculbertson2257]

1st comment! Lol