Atlas HO Code 83 Snap Switch Turnout Issues

My HO code 83 Atlas Snap Switch turnouts have been shorting out when my locomotives pass over them at the frog. This occurs on all my locomotives, Athearn, Proto 2000, and Kato which all have wheel sets with correct tested NMRA specs. The reasoning is the rails leading to the insulated frog from the switch points are very close and the wheel flanges will strike the opposite rail causing the short.
I have decided not to use these turnouts at all and go with higher end versions for the rest of the industries. I'm curious if I just have a bad batch or if others see these issues. I had purchased these roughly 10 years ago.

[@thomassalerno5203]

Don’t old time modelers discourage you...this is a relatively easy fix There are two issues and you have identified both. Issue 1 the pathway you identified is tight an loco flanges vary in width causing the wheels to ride up and along with the momentum cause the wheels to come in contact with the other rail resulting in the short…Resolution take a narrow file and widen the the pathway so the loco flanges can travel relatively freely thru the pathway. This is especially necessary if you have 6 axle units.….Next make a cut 1-2 rails past the frog at the top of the V and 2 rails prior to the frog at the bottom of the V isolating the frog. Second…. 5 rails prior to the turnout make jumpers connecting the outside rails and jumpers connecting the inside rails ( flip over, remove plastic, solder wires to the appropriate rails) this will insure power up to the cut and allowing the lead axles to slide thru unpowered (therefore no short) being pushed by the back axles which have power. When the lead axles complete the crossover they will have power and pull the back axles thru the isolated frog. Skeptics will say the plastic frog is already isolated. True but the crossover zone has to be elongated to eliminate the issues you face. Finally you will have to get power to the turnout and if you are a point to point lay out power to the back side. This can be done with drops or jumpers whichever is most convenient. Reply to me if you like i can walk you thru via a call or email.

[@doublediamondrailroad5949]

I have to File out that pathway Gap on all my N Scale Atlas Snap Switches. Some Flanges too deep and wheels too Wide.

[@harperlarry49]

Yeah, I have found that the hardest and biggest decision in this hobby is what switches/turnouts to use. They will make or break a layout. Good luck.

[@jbrazilian2002]

Theres an easy way to fix it, just cut the curved track near the frog using a dremell ( about 1 inch from the frog or 1/2 “) it should solve the problem since it wont be energized when the locomotive wheels touch it

[@mimodelrailroading]

That's actually a really good solution.

[@jeffgoldenberg9579]

Yes this is the fix and you can either fill the gap with some styrene or a drop of 5 minute epoxy. Then carve it down to the rail profile and hit it with some paint to camouflage it.

[@jbrazilian2002]

@@mimodelrailroading thats what i did over my Atlas turnouts... just cut both tracks near the frog ( about a inche from the frog ), since they won't be energised that won't be an esue anymore

[@charlierumsfeld6626]

I have used a dremmel to cut rails to make an insulated piece of track and eliminate shorts in switches.

[@ABB8696-k4m]

I had the same problem, I used a flat black enamel paint on the ends next the frogs. It takes long to dry but lasts a long time.

[@redbarnz]

Sounds like Win-Win solution!

[@jonrussell5788]

This trick worked for me! Thanks so much - I went out a tie or two - and have had no issues since.

[@davidcurtis5398]

I'm so glad that I'm working with battery power. I don't have to worry about any shorts for any reason.

[@gmcliff555]

I DID put nail polish on them, and it works for quite awhile, Cause have had the same issue on SOME of my switches.

[@crsrdash-840b5]

The Atlas Snap turnout switches have a frog angle of #3.5 with a diverging route of #4. The custom Line of #4 and higher works better. You can actually cut down a #6 frog side rails to 9-inches to match the length of a #4 or Snap switch. You then get a better frog angle at the length of a shorter turnout.

[@mikewoodbury7248]

Yup I’m dealing with the same problem I got a few and a atlas curved switch that’s been nothing but trouble swapping out for ME and Peco.

[@denebutube]

This is happening because your loco has code 100 wheels ( a wheel width of 0.110") and the frog is designed for code 83 (0.088" wheel width). That extra 0.022" in wheel width is enough to gap the code 83 snap track inside rails and cause a short. Some loco manufacturers make their wheels even thicker than 0.110" to prevent frog-drop-in and prevent power interruption, which exacerbates the problem at code 83 frogs. In theory, the logical solution, which is not the most practical, is to replace your loco wheels with code 83 threads or remove by machining the 0.022" from the outward circumference. More practical methods have been provided herein, but it is good the know the root cause of your issue. To this day I am not sure why Atlas made these lower grade design snap switches in code 83. If the modeller is sophisticated enough to have code 83, then he/she is too sophisticated to have snap switches.

[@PostmoderneModelWorks]

I’ve been having a similar issue and this info helps. I’m wondering if cutting the rail a few mm after the frog would solve the issue since all my track is already in place and I don’t really want to remove them if I don’t have to.

[@raquaro1]

Clear nail polish at the end of the frog at the entry and exit points fix this. Better solution is to use Micro engineering or Peco turnouts. SO much better and marginally more expensive. They are worth it.

[@davidcurtis5398]

if your engines have the "stay alive" feature in them, you could isolate the frog where the wheels have a problem by cutting the track on either side of the frog and the "stay alive" would take the engine over the dead section of the track. When I had DCC I had the "stay alive" circuitry in all of my engines. The circuitry is not that much money. Better than paying a fortune for the "good" switches that will cost an arm and a leg...

[@davidcurtis5398]

To bad I didn't see this video when you posted it as I would have bought all of the switches that you didn't want for a good price.

[@titodalessandro1909]

Their must be a way to modify them . Very simply, to work properly.

[@FostoriaOhiomodelrailroadclub]

Take a dremmel tool Can cut Out a slip behind the frog It should work just fine

[@AppalachiaRRlover]

I use peco only so much better

[@davidcurtis5398]

Yes but I find that these switches are out of my budget. I use the snap switches and never have had any problems, but then I am a "dead rail" operator.

[@cprtrain]

The switches are crap.

[@dobs78]

I shaved mine down slightly with a file when i had them is n scale. Never had an issue after that