Audi A4 1.8T Common Problems PART 2

[@Casey2037]

Check your spark plugs. They can break in weird ways and cause the inner part of the plug to move with compression.

[@stuiesgarage]

I just did them pretty recently

[@rollindeep786]

Personally, I do also believe the car is not ideal in the very hot weather's you experience in America.. Plastic and rubber components do not bode well in extreme hot weather, mines in the UK and tbh, after initial teething issues, it's lasted 15 + years and still sounding sweet along with decent power, Common faults are coolant flange, pcv valve, the older ignition coils, boost leaks, plastic water pump and chain tensioner which disintegrates and clogs up the oil pickup tube located in the oil sump as well as the dreaded wiring loom in between the car door due to opening and closing over time. The manual Transmission very reliable, wish I could say the same about the automatics tho lols

[@smackthatsolskinnsbolle9082]

Same sound in mine. And it was one sparkplug under the coil

[@smackthatsolskinnsbolle9082]

Camshaftbelt jumped 4 notches, right after the bolt in the crankshaft broke.... i am so saaaad. But the engine run 301000km...so i think it have done its job.

[@lukashennessy7744]

i just recently got an 05 1.8t manual quattro and it has the tick and rough idle. the tick does go away once the engine has warmed up but the rough idle stays. been suggested to look at the engine mounts

[@rollindeep786]

Rough idle will most likely be a pcv breather valve or the pancake valve at top located at the back of the engine, although minor leak in the intake turbo piping may also cause this. The tick you describe it's located at the back of the engine, most likely will be the timing chain tensioner which need to be replaced along with the half moon gasket seal

[@darrenfitzpatrick6490]

great video, very informative thank you for uploading. i have a b5 a4 so many similarities to your car.

[@titanicsauce2152]

Hi Stuie. My 2004 ticks also and I suspect the timing is off marginally after a belt replacement but not sure. Anyways you make great videos, thanks for them.

[@milkyway604]

Звук может быть из за изношенной постели распредвала или самого распредвала. Это случается из за краткосрочных перегревов головки блока, которая очень чувствительна к этому, так же из за неправильного подобранного слишком густого масла. В корпусе масляного фильтра стоит маленький шариковый обратный клапан, который не всегда работает исправно и стравливает давление из головки блока при простое. Густое масло усугубляет положение.

[@rollindeep786]

The ticking is fairly normal, it's the timing chain slightly knocking against the head cover gasket, rough idle I experienced for years and then only by chance replaced the breather and pancake valves, the car has been sweet ever since and has been like that for the last 5 years.. Annoying when trying to fault diagnose though, try squeezing breather valves and when you come to one that smooths out the idle, your culprit will be in that area..

[@stuiesgarage]

Thanks for the tips! Will try that out!

[@rollindeep786]

@stuiesgarage sorry, I meant squeeze all breather hoses, mine subdued towards the back of the engine very low down, replaced all the hoses with no luck, threw loads of money at it.. I gave up and a few years later, summat at the back needed replacing, got the valves as had read about these,, but forums throw you off track, so ignored. Long story short, they cost £7 and £11 each genuine from tps, couldn't believe it finally worked! But also check your using e5 petrol and not e10, 1 tank I tried and it misfired horrendously! Which I'm stumped about.. But never made the same mistake and it's been sweet ever since

[@sonnisndergaard3896]

@@stuiesgarageDid it work?

[@Southsiderunna_]

I’m looking at picking up an 04 B6. How often would you say you’re actually having to wrench on yours? Looking for a fun daily.

[@Dap-Racing]

The tensioner by default when broken in will be slightly loose at when the engine is off since its oil pressure driven along with an internal helper spring.

[@xanderosborn8059]

I own the 1.8 Manuel versions have had timing chain busted and nothing else luckily failed except the bypass valve due to me turning up the e boost. Mechanic fried ecu doing engine work had to replace ecu at 100k miles. Having major coolant leak all of it gone after several miles used to barely leak now it’s exploding out. Was curious if the coolant flange was the result to that problem

[@VanHorny]

Chain slap

[@tnoddy666]

Hey All, getting an 04 A41.8T soon so will be coming to the community and Stuie for all my advise, glad I found you guys and thanks for the Video Stuie, really prepared me for the road ahead with my new (old) car.

[@barenekid9695]

Poor choice .. Kid.

[@rollindeep786]

Nah, depends on how well it's been kept.. Solid engine in manual, just make sure you use e5, ie v power, they're very sensitive to the e10 crap

[@tnoddy666]

@@barenekid9695 sad to hear that but unfortunatley it wasn't much of a choice and it's too late now, but it seems well kept.

[@tomaszziomek4398]

Is this noise after replacing the timing chain and tensioner?

[@stuiesgarage]

No, it was after doing a full engine rebuild, I did swap out the timing chain and hydraulic lifters to see if that would make a difference but it didn’t.

[@tomaszziomek4398]

@@stuiesgarage you replaced the oil pump with a good tensioner and the timing chain, the original cost is 500 euros

[@AmbA4]

Injectors? Maybe

[@stuiesgarage]

Possible, seems a bit too loud for that

[@cellymakaveli9197]

I put a map in between the glove compartment box works wonders😂

[@yyz125]

I had the phantom coolant leak..from the "j" plug

[@steambuns2283]

hey man, is it true that u can delete the secondary air pump with a tune?

[@tnoddy666]

@stuiesgarage please could you assist, my A4 B6 leaking from the radiator and I suppose there may be a blockage in the coolant system and that’s the weak point or the water pump may have given in and that the blockage any advise would be appreciated. Too scared to drive it now.

[@stuiesgarage]

The front timing cover comes off pretty easily, you should be able to see the water pump from there if you’re trying to track down a leak.

[@PCassotech]

Hey buddy that knocking is most likely from a piston, sorry to bring bad news. Someone said chain slack but it should be noticeable at idle and go away once you rev up, yours is the opposite, bet you at higher rpm’s it get louder… right..?

[@rollindeep786]

When chain slack turns to rattle at start up before smoothing out after oil fills up, it's tensioners that are worn. Easiest way to prolong the inevitable, just leave key in ignition position for a minute or 2 before firing up to give tensioners chance to fill up with oil, then start

[@lolfix101]

did you ever solve the tick? and if not got any more clues?

[@stuiesgarage]

I haven’t been able to solve it, I replace the timing chain and all of the hydraulic lifters but it’s still there. Timing is good and idle is smooth, not sure what it could be, but I haven’t had any engine issues or metal in the oil, so I guess it’s ok. I’ve put 40k miles on this engine with the tick.

[@lolfix101]

interesting, ive got the same tick but mostly on cold oil. extremely loud when its cold. im sure its lifters but getting worried when i hear stories like yours. but then again i would be happy if it lasted me 40k. thanks for the quick reply @@stuiesgarage

[@thatkidagain3196]

did u ever figure out what was causing that ticking? currently having the same noise coming from my 20th gti

[@stuiesgarage]

Yeah it still ticks, been doing that for almost 40k miles now and seems fine, haven’t changed at all

[@tigererickson8375]

Oil pump/pickup tube

[@matshoflund4833]

The ticking can come from a bad exhause gasket. It is a paper-metal gasket and if the paper goes away the metal can make i ticking sound

[@freeman1352]

Hi my car is showing an 02 sensor fault and has also started running really bad any help would be great

[@stuiesgarage]

Any other codes?

[@freeman1352]

@@stuiesgarage I don't think so I think it's a combination of an air leak that it had before going to the mechanic and I now think the cat is gone the car feels stuffed

[@stuiesgarage]

@@freeman1352 Hmm, probably right, I know lack of power on these cars can be due to a clogged cat.

[@freeman1352]

@@stuiesgarage I think that's what's happening it's nearly like u can hear it

[@davidbrown8230]

Is it the O2 sensor (downstream), or the air fuel sensor (up stream)? You will definitely know because a failing/failed air fuel sensor will inject way too much fuel into the cylinders causing tons of smoke and a distinct raw fuel smell. If its the downstream sensor, that would also trip a code. In my instance, I thought a new sensor would do the trick, but when I removed the downpipe with the cat, which you have to do, I looked at the filters in the cat and they were about 90% clogged. A lack of power, and bad fuel economy is a good indicator. I bought a new magnaflow cat and installed it. The power came back along with better fuel economy, but it still tripped a code after about two weeks. I used that cat because it was a shade under 6 bills. Apparently, you'll need a Audi cat which is 2 grand. I live in a county in Wisconsin where emissions isn't required, so I said "the hell with that" and installed a test pipe with a O2 sensor extender which is welded at 45 degress, so it fit with room to spare. I have been driving for 8 months with this set up and no check engine light. If your going to do this work, be warned that your downpipe may need to be replaced also, along with the clamp that secures the downpipe to the cat, and all the gaskets and grade 8 or better hardware.

[@kevinhawley962]

fyi if u wanna get ur tire off the easy way loosen the lugs just a lil and drop the car on the ground quick it will break the tire loose from sticking

[@stuiesgarage]

Thanks, that sounds like a much easier/safer way!

[@XstremeModz]

Just watched your last video a few minutes ago. Just got an 02 a4 1.8t (not quattro) and been trying to figure my gremlins out. Check engine light and red oil light, esp pops on and off. Have no horn (guessing fuse, I can hear it click in the wheel), door jam issue for window (driver), and a short of power in 1st-2nd. At 90k, just had oil done and coolant res replaced. Any advice

[@manicstmn]

Red oil light is the serious one -it means lower than spec oil pressure, which might mean your oil pickup tube is partially blocked within the sump. ESP on/off in my experience would be your G85 steering angle sensor, located behind the steering wheel, part of the clock spring. They dry out over time. Car kills the traction control (illuminating the ESP) because it can't read the angle of the steering.

[@rollindeep786]

If you hear a clunking sound from your wheel which is intermittent along with esp intermittent, check the driveshaft axle is properly tightened in the offending wheel, mine did what I described and as I was taking a steep bend, the driveshaft popped out! Car refused to move and could here it turning on acceleration but like a knocking /grinding sound. Thankfully garage diagnosed and confirmed drive shafts axle popped out the wheel bearing hub, literally popped back in and tightened, been sweet ever since

[@barenekid9695]

It's Junk ! Get a new better brand car.

[@rollindeep786]

Personal opinion, new cars are made using cheap materials these days, they fail like crazy!