Auto Focus - [5 USEFUL Tips]

5 auto focus tips that will make your AF easier.
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⏱Timestamps
00:00 Intro
00:19 Tip #1
02:24 Tip #2
03:28 Tip #3
03:54 Tip #4
04:31 Bonus Tip
05:53 Workshop
06:39 Tip #5
08:07 Extra Tip
08:12 Watch next!
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[@stevocem]

I like the back button focus, mainly because is some situations I don’t want to reacquire focus accidentally by half pressing the shutter button before shooting. I like these functions separated. Thanks for the cool video, Peter.

[@richardpriestley477]

Peter Thank you for a selection of tips on a much overlooked feature of cameras ; very helpful

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks, my pleasure.

[@joanantonim.p.2400]

Thanks , Peter... 👌👍👍🙏 Greetings... "SALUDOS... 👋🙋😃 "

[@alan.macrae]

I use back button autofocus on all of my cameras. Their default AF setting is AF-C, usually with tracking on. If shooting a stationary subject, I just hit the AF button until the focus locks and then release it and take the image. If the subject is moving, I have the ability to follow as AF-C is already on, I just have to hold the AF button (back) down. Cheers!

[@davekreft2483]

The AF tips are great, thanks! Equally valuable is your humor and seeing that even the pros can leave home without a card in the camera!

[@ForsgardPeter]

Glad it was helpful and yes...

[@rinzevnrossum]

I set (as a Bird photographer) S-AF to C1 and C-AF to C2 (ProCapture on C3). I use the Fn button on my EM1X to quickly switch from any mode (PASM) to C2: go to Menu>the command wheel>B1>button functions>OK>scroll down>Fn>choose C2 (if set to C-AF of course).

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks for the tip and sharing your settings.

[@martinwiedmann8584]

I have set the backfocus button on my E-M1 iii to activate the Custom Mode 1, which in my case is configured for moving animals (Tracking AF etc.) - works great.

[@sassanlachini5383]

Nice winter. Thanks for your inspiring videos. I am still not convinced to use back button focus. Most I use C-AF +/- Tracking for portrait and sports/action photography. Focus limiter is fine to take pictures through a car/bus that the car window won't irritate the AF. Spare memory card at least one always! 🙂

[@ForsgardPeter]

Good idea about the focus limiter and car windows! Thanks.

[@ipadista]

The reason I started using BBF was that I was often covering events from some distance, if theater often in unreliable light if the actor suddenly moves out of the spot light, and even if AF is really fast, the subject isn't moving in depth but often sideways, so in such situations focus is kind of set it and forget it. With shutter focus if something sudden happens you always risk that your focus point isn't aiming straight at the person of interest, and something in front or behind ends up being focused, running a photo of an unexpected happening, often the photos I end up using. Initially I had a special mode for BBF, but once I had gotten used to it it was just as fast to use close up, so I went all in on it. I always use it in C-AF since when I don't need/want to change focus, I just stop pressing the back button :)

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks a lot for sharing.

[@rfphill1984]

Useful video! I'll have to try the distance limits, I hate background focusing.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Great to hear. It works very well.

[@ipadista]

I use a setup where I have 3 focus modes on my EM1-II with single touch in addition to the clutch. Lvl 1 - SAF/CAF (depending on situation)- small point Lvl 2 - CAF - All points, center priority, I find this the best mode for capturing unexpected random high mobility situations where there is no time to capture anything to track, like if an animal or person does something unexpected. Fn1 - Set Home. One large focus point, not switching AF mode or target point, great if the light is poor and the small point struggles, pressing Fn1 toggles between small and large focus points, or if I am in Lvl 2 toggles between single and all focal points. Others will probably prefer different settings depending on their style, but regardless this gives you 3 focus modes at a touch by adding the home as an active choice, and not just moving the focal point to the center as per default.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thank you very much for sharing this.

[@libork8106]

Peter, well said. The manual/auto-focus clutch is still my favorite because I don't need to move the camera from my eye in order to access the switch.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks.

[@davidlooney3670]

My setting, for the majority of time, stays on S-AF-MF. This helps with fine tuning. I can think of lots of examples, but one that happened a few minutes ago - I was photographing a Mourning Dove on my back porch that was fairly close to me. My spot meter/focus point was on it’s shoulders, and a quick adjustment brought the beak into focus (aided also by “peaking”), without moving my framing.

[@k6usy]

I do the same, I like not having MF locked out as not all my lenses have the MF clutch.

[@robynaldridge8304]

Peter, I gave up back button focus when I changed over to Olympus cameras. They are so much easier to use so I have never needed to resort to that again.

[@williamevans9426]

Great advice, as always Mr Forsgard. (I also admire your winter hat - very smart!!)

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thank you kindly!

[@ottohansnitsch3764]

Thank you Peter, another very interesting and useful video. Regards from Barcelona, Spain.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Many thanks!

[@kamilrakowski23]

I have one more tip. I don't think anyone is using it. You can set the back focus button (ael/afl) to focus on the face (face/eye detection) and the shutter button to focus without face detection(single point, etc). A very useful feature. Face detection doesn't always work as it should. We don't have to turn it off, but we just use different buttons. I don't own the m1x anymore, but olympus should use this feature for birds and vehicles photography. This function is only in m1miii (not mii) A1》ael/afl》half way af (operative) 》 face priority (shutter button off, ael/afl on) Btw. Great video.

[@ForsgardPeter]

I will look into this. Very handy tip! Might use this in a future video!

[@Centauri27]

I really tried to like BBF, but it just cramped my shooting style, so I gave it up (even though I originally started off with manual lenses from the film SLR days).

[@stefanwagener]

The back button focus on Olympus cameras isn't ergonomically very pleasing to me, and I often start to shake the camera even more. So I rather not use it their. But on Nikon cameras it is a joy to use. The major advantage to me is basically having S-AF and C-AF at the same time, depending on how long you press the button. For sports back button focus (with C-AF) is more convenient to me than shutter button focus and additionally a short press of back button simulates S-AF for landscape and by not pressing it you can manual focus as well (depends on lens though). So without switching any button you can have all 3 focus modes. But as most cameras offer several user settings I typically have different user settings including focus modes stored for landscape and for sports. And in my landscape mode I typically don't use back button focus neither and have it in S-AF.

[@dominiquedepauw4638]

Hi Stefan, I configured my Nikon the same way. Works great! On my Fuji there is an extra: when you push the back button focus it locks the focus and when you push again it unlocks. Then you can press the shutter button half way and focus the "normal" way. So you have two possibilities without having to change the settings.

[@johanankarback6821]

I always use back button focus with C-AF or C-AF tracking. The advantage with that as I see it is that you can follow the object quickly if it moves and then when it sits still you just release the focus button and compose your image. It is kind of backwards but you get used to it after a while and I think it´s working great.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Sounds like a good way to do it. Thanks for sharing.

[@klaustomasini]

I switched 2021 to back button focus for wildlife photography and I am very happy with it. furthermore, I activiated MF (S-AF MF). it was a tip of espen helland ;-) so, I can correct back button focus manually, if the subjects moves. activated focus peaking helps a lot by this method. thanks to espen.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks for sharing! Espen has some great tips!

[@kanaam3268]

Thanks Peter very informative clip. Well presented and easy for amateurs to understand.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Glad it was helpful!

[@buyaport]

Back button focus: Useful if the camera has difficulty finding the fokus, so if you have set it once the camera is not hunting for focus anymore. Saves you from switching between manual and auto focus, too (adjusting the focus manually while halfpressing the shutter button is awkward). But in most situations it is easier to just use the shutter button to focus instead of pressing two buttons. I find myself often changing the setting for back button focus on and off.

[@AlpacoFilms]

Peter another great video! That focus limiter trick is something i constantly forget! I really need to start using that more often! Also, that focus orientation?! I had NO idea that even existed! I'm gonna play with that to see if that's something I would find useful! Thank you again!

[@ForsgardPeter]

Happy to help! I have the same problem with focus limiter. It very useful in many situations.

[@borderlands6606]

Back button focus is useful for street photography. Set the camera at a hyperfocal distance of, say, 2 metres, and a wide angle lens will keep everything in focus from a couple of feet to infinity at f8 or f11 (f4-f5.6 on m43). This is especially useful on older cameras that may not have the latest algorithmic tracking. On my S5 - other cameras may be similar - I set the lens switch to manual, and the back button still autofocuses. When I turn the focusing ring on the lens, it reverts back to manual focus.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks for sharing. Sounds quite good feature! Need to check if that works on an Olympus camera. Most likely it wont.

[@donsnow4564]

Lol. Just this Saturday I had the same scenario with missing my sd card in camera. I feel much better about it now. I used to always bring my camera bag and have multiple cards on hand but now I prefer to go super light and this is the potential pitfall I guess. My fn1 button is programmed for focus peaking. I use vintage manual focusing lens alot and this technique is a must. Cheers

[@WMedl]

CAF+Tr is not very reliable on my EM1 Mii, it is very slow and often looses the focus even if the target dies not move! For everythin else thanwildlife photos I use backbutton focus completely seperating focusing, composition and taking. But for Wildlife this is to complicatec for me to attentively follow the moving subject, holding down the BBF button with my thumb and be ready to shoot with my index finger... Focus delimiter is a good idea but does not always work properly.

[@rickbear7249]

Peter, you might like to point out that C-AF uses processor cycles, and bearing in mind that Olympus cameras don't have particularly fast processors, the more settings you use you could give problems for sequence shooting. This is particularly true if you also use Auto-IS where the camera needs to figure out what's happening if you deliberately move the camera and it needs to think about whether it's camera shake or a deliberate movement. I tend to switch everything OFF for aviation photography. Keep it Simple Rick

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks for sharing.

[@realniteart]

Back focus was somewhat important when you had just a few focusing points. It is not important on cameras with focusing points covering the whole sensor and miracles of modern eye and specific objects focusing. I also had a better control of horizontal level when I used back focus button with DSLRs.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Yes you are right.

[@oneeyedphotographer]

On Canon, probably others, with BBF the camera can keep tracking whether you are shooting or not. Imagine a bird crossing in front. You frame and focus with BBF. As it approaches another bird, you shoot a burst, but keep BF down. Then someething else happens, you shoot another burst. If you use the shutter button, as soon as you stop shooting the camera loses focus and has to acquire focus again.

[@1957PLATO]

Great tips. The AF orientation can be useful for cl concert photography. In vertical position you can set the focus point so that it finds the face of the musician easier.

[@ForsgardPeter]

You are right. That is one situation to use it.

[@StephenStrangways]

I don't have any cameras with the AF orientation option, but it would be very useful when switching from a horizontal composition where you focus point is the upper left corner, which would then become the lower left corner when rotating the camera to vertical - you could set it to instead have a focusing point in the upper left corner when vertical, allowing you to maintain the same composition. I use the 2x2 switch on my E-M1 II to do this manually, flicking the switch to go between two different focus points, but keeping the same AF mode settings, as I go between horizontal and vertical.

[@RDMracer]

Makes sense, this is where the exchangeability between MFT systems is limited, because if you want the best performance, there are limited options. I've used a lens with clutch, and I've knocked it accidentally. But I was mainly surprised of how useless it was to me, my current GX8 just has a dial with all 3 settings; S-AF, C-AF, and MF and the focus by wire works well enough. (Clutched Olmypus lenses are still by wire even, but they just change response when you clutch over) One thing that would have improved it would be easier access to burst mode, as I use it in combination with C-AF most of the time. I must admit though, even on the old E-M1 that I had before, the autofocus was just incredible in good lighting conditions, especially regarding tracking. I should have switched to the PEN-F if I didn't want to film in high quality.

[@realniteart]

I have two cards in cameras most of the time. But I also have a spare sd card that I never take out in every camera bag. Cards are cheap now, there are no reasons not to have spares. It is the same with batteries.

[@chetanunindracusin664]

Fn I use for turn on off so you can used one hand operated camera

[@Martin_Siegel]

I tried back button focusing but can't get used to it. I think I use to many differnt cameras to recall to which button I set what so I go with the standard functions. I think that might come my film photography socialisation, maybe that's why I'm not used to so many custom functions on a camera.

[@AGag47]

Anytime I've got my sd card in my card reader, I always leave the battery door open as reminder.

[@duncanpeet4827]

It is also worth having a spare memory card or 2 in your wallet. Saves your situation in bonus tip or if one fails or you do take in excess of several thousand photos :D

[@ForsgardPeter]

That is a good point. I wonder if some makes wallets that have a memory card holder? That would be the ideal photographers wallet!

[@hedydd2]

I hope you will remember to have SD cards for Helsinki later this year. :-)

[@ForsgardPeter]

Yes I will make sure of that!

[@mimstyle]

AF orientation for me when I shoot a portrait even in horizon or verticaly I have always the focus in certain point without adjust everytime.

[@bamsemh1]

I actually just use my phones type c USB to transfer directly from the camera to my phone 😊 so the card actually never leaves my camera anymore 😅 My l-fn is set up for magnification 😊

[@jonastruemper637]

Peter, thanks for sharing! That orientation-based switch is news to me. I don't believe it exists in E-M5III. Or does it? Could you share where to find it?

[@ForsgardPeter]

Unfortunately it is not in E-M5MKIII.

[@ridealongwithrandy]

On the 300 f4 pro, I use the LFN for mf/af, and turn off the clutch, too easy to nudge, same for 40-150 f2.8 pro

[@neilwheel]

Peter, what focus setting would you use for video? I want to make some video clips on my EM 10 mk3.

[@ForsgardPeter]

C-AF+TR and Face Priority if I am using Olympus cameras. The outdoor part was filmed with DJI Action 2

[@garys639]

Back button for wildlife ie: birds in flight etc. CF-Tr not quite good enough yet for my type of work,hope there will be a firmware upgrade. Loved the face plant,we have all done it , that or a low battery.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Battery is another thing...

[@garys639]

@@ForsgardPeter I always leave the card door open when I am downloading images, aquick reminder to put cards in before heading out.

[@k6usy]

I had to use the AF limiter once at a baseball game so my 40-150 pro would stop focusing on the net between me and the players. It is not just useful for ignoring the background.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Good point. It can also help to avoid something in the foreground.

[@marcuswagar7246]

I use back button focus because I don't want one button for both focus and triggering

[@azjoe_6310]

When I use CAF on my 5mkii (which is rare) it seems to continuously hunt for focus through the viewfinder--even if the subject is stationary or walking toward me. When I first used it I was sure none were in focus but they all were actually sharply focused. What I am saying is that it looked differently in the viewfinder than if you used a video camera (which seems to maintain focus in the finder constantly). Is that normal?

[@ForsgardPeter]

The C-AF on E-5 MKII was not the best. It is much improved in the later models.

[@azjoe_6310]

@@ForsgardPeter Thanks Peter. Well over 99% of my pics only require single shot AF so no sense changing cameras. Thanks for the great videos you put out.

[@01altermann]

If removeing the sd-card leave the hatch open. So it reminds you to check the slot for the next time you use the camera ;)

[@ForsgardPeter]

That is one way but it leaves the camera a bit unsafe when the hatch is open.

[@hedydd2]

For me, the disadvantages of losing function buttons outweighs any and all advantages of back button focus.

[@formermpc10]

I don't understand the logic behind having a setting designated for manual focus. Don't the m43 lens automatically go to manual focus when you turn the focus ring, regardless of other settings? Using the focus peaking and magnification really help with manual focus. Regarding BBF: tried it twice over the years and didn't find it useful. I don't think it helps people as much as they think. I've thought of BBF as something that is motivated by peer pressure, like unnecessarily shooting RAW. Regarding forgetting a memory card: I do keep a spare memory card in my second slot but have only used it to loan to other photographers I encounter. I have never run out of memory or battery in my decades of shooting. If you think before you shoot you also don't need to spend time weeding through your images.

[@ForsgardPeter]

You can set the camera so that that turning the focusing ring will make the lens MF. S-AF +MF.

[@chetanunindracusin664]

For me back button is easy than shutter because yours tumb alway be there

[@vkmccable]

Ah yes face plant...we've all been there.