Engine Detailing Painting and Assembly Tips and Tricks Episode 386

[@reymas7749]

Thanks for the great tips. I’m tackling this project on my 69 Mach 1 and you guys answered all the questions gravitating in my head. Praying for you guys swift recovery.

[@AutoRestoMod]

You are welcome.

[@SixRoundsStudio]

Great show this week. Love all things POR 15. A small tip from the gun trade. When you use steel wool on finished metal add a little WD-40 or light machine oil like 3M. The steel wool can add minute scratches and the oil lubricates and helps carry away the contaminants. Also any steel wool leftovers can rust….and the oil helps get ahead of that. The downside....you have to wipe off the slurry when you’re done. I do this on blued gun parts that have minor rust scale. Helps to prevents pulling the bluing off.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Nice tip Six! I'll start using that.

[@cuzz63]

@@AutoRestoMod kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2Gpf5-uea-Vh9E

[@uuwalnut]

Colonel "Cornmeal" Mustard is looking very nice! Never knew the exhaust manifold paint / paste worked that well. Very impressed with the engine paint and have used POR 15 before for rust but never thought about engine paint. Thank you Jeff and Team! Gave me some good references for engine detailing.

[@GiletheCarGuy]

Watched both of these a couple of times. Thank you.

[@AutoRestoMod]

You are welcome.

[@Milner62]

Por15 is good. Brush painted my Ford 292 intake with a cheap chip brush. Without restrictors in the heat cross over I have had no paint burn since I painted the intake back in December

[@steverhine3974]

Thanks for doing All of the videos on your ford f100. I have a 70 f100 and it gives me a lot " so that's how it's done" moments

[@AutoRestoMod]

Glad to help

[@Morgan-h5f]

Kwik wire harness +,Great USA wi

[@Morgan-h5f]

Detailed instructions booklet for resto mods

[@AutoRestoMod]

Quick wire makes a good system but we actually prefer using American Autowire around here

[@Mike_Neukam]

Wet aluminum foil is great for polishing chrome. The water reacts with the aluminum to create a very fine aluminum oxide paste that works like magic

[@AutoRestoMod]

I might have to try that...

[@AndrewEllisAndymanout]

You guys are a God send! I have a 73 F100 with the 390 in it. Your teaching me what I'll need to know to giterdone!

[@AutoRestoMod]

Thanks, we appreciate the compliment!

[@mavgrab74]

I like the POR15 paint, I might even consider painting my 302 with it. Looks great...

[@AutoRestoMod]

Yep, we're going to explore Ford Corporate Blue and it's wacky madcap fun variances in color soon.

[@garysmith2346]

Thank you for these videos i have a 72 ford f100 ranger xlt myself and i used your video to clean and paint my engine. i wish i could share the pics of my engine but i used por 15 aluminum for the block heads and intake, and used an old ford blue engine enamel paint for my covers water pump and air cleaner.

[@AutoRestoMod]

[e-mail]

[@RRjames5332]

Calyx is great stuff looks and works great.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Only issue I have seen is if it gets wet (or lost in my tool box lol), but a simple re-application and boop it is fixed.

[@reaperronin8898]

Nice job on the video .. 👍

[@paulthompson8480]

hi I do understand there a different ways to do this but , apart from the budget it would only be moderate cost to remove most parts bead blast and repaint with new bolts etc . exh manifolds -- ceramic coat ,, inlet manifold blast paint ,, balancer-- blast , paint ,, sump blast ,paint [if it canbe removed in car ] , accessory mount & drives blast, paint Alternators can be detail [better if disassembled ]. Air/con compressors hand sand/paint Aluminium parts can be blasted /polished and have clear CERAN coating applied to keep fingerprints and heat effects from distorting polished surfaces long term . New alloy alternators can be done assembled .

[@WalksInThunder]

My mechanics shop had the exhaust manifolds powder coated to look like cast iron. They look great! Of course they were off the engine at the time.

[@AutoRestoMod]

We like Jet Hot for that.

[@brentmeredith5295]

The bolts for the rocker covers are probably longer cause you should use retainer plates as well to help spread the down force and prevent warping the sealing edges of the tin rocker covers

[@hughphillips67Mustang]

About the valve covers.......which do you prefer? Cork, or silicone? I don't believe you have a video over this topic. If you do, I haven't found it yet.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Really never thought about it. I've used both.

[@donchapman1853]

What did you use to clean motor befror painting clean to paint

[@AutoRestoMod]

Super Clean.

[@gadsdenviper7149]

Jeff! headers man, it needs headers. You can smell the horsepower gains. lol Also, why take the paint off the gasket surface, especially if it's still soft and you have a nice smooth layer of paint it will bond to the gasket after the engine gets up to temp for a better seal and works really well, many times if I don't have copper coat for metallic gaskets I will use a silver/chrome paint, works the same or spray black enamel on paper gaskets for intakes and water pumps. Anyway, just a tip of things I've done over the past 37 years as a mechanic.

[@AutoRestoMod]

I've heard of using never seize too. The paint had some rough edges and I like going to a metal surface. But I see your point.

[@rodneyyoung385]

I just want to throw this out there as far as headers on my f e truck I never go headers the reason why automatic transmission which I am on my F250 in order to replace the starter you got to pull the passenger side headers no freaking way

[@morganleblanc730]

He Jeff do you ever plan to put an aluminum intake on the 390? Great video

[@AutoRestoMod]

Dunno. It has the S intake. So on the whole it would only save weight. If we go in and rebuild the engine I might. But then we'll have to mess with the springs to get the camber right.

[@morganleblanc730]

Yes I totally get that. I am having a debate in my mind about replacing mine with aluminum. But it's always a hassle with a FE.

[@robkallok77]

Jeff, catching up on some videos I missed 🧐 Do you know if the POR-15 will stand up to a wrench? I’ve tried different things over the years - it’s so annoying to paint up accessory bolts only to have them flake and start to rust after installation...

[@AutoRestoMod]

Don't know of a paint that will. It will take a hammer blow...wait for the next video...

[@bryanskogsberg5126]

When using POR 15 CORPORATE BLUE , did you use any hardener? I am in the process of the Exact copy motor restoration of my 390 down to the S CODE intake. Great video..

[@AutoRestoMod]

POR15 does not require hardener. BUT surfaces MUST be very clean.

[@rob69270]

Which is better? Cork or rubber gaskets on the valve covers on your FE? Love your show!!!

[@AutoRestoMod]

Thanks for the kind words! We've used both with about the same success. the FE's biggest problem isn't the gasket, it is the mating area between the head and the intake. Oil will, on an FE "find a way". We've had pretty good success with using the black RTV there to cut down on seepage.

[@AAhshitsun]

That is really dark blue. Is that the correct color? Is that diplicolor 1606?

[@AAhshitsun]

I see now its the por... looks like 1606.

[@rayladd856]

i love your comments, hilarious

[@shawnfoxfirth9684]

Pull It and paint everything . still nice job .

[@AutoRestoMod]

We wanted to show that a nice result can be had by doing an "in frame" rattle can resto. Thanks for the kind words!

[@blairlindsay3604]

so ,... when your not being video taped , your inclined to do it properly ?

[@AutoRestoMod]

I am inclined to do it differently. Perhaps one day I will share the three plumber story with you.

[@theovallas]

Whoa, whoa, whoa...the most dreaded FE thing happened and you didn't tell us how you fixed it??!! I noticed when you were talking about the hoses that one of the exhaust manifold bolt tabs (err..protrusions?) broke off the head, I presume when you were attempting to remove the exhaust manifold bolt. How did yall fix it and save the head? I've been putting off headers because I'm afraid of that happening...

[@AutoRestoMod]

Ain't going to talk about the fix until I prove it works. LOL. I need to start and run the engine and drive it for a while. Hoowever, what we did was we used JB Weld and made pins. If it flies we'll do an episode on it. You get a gold star for attentiveness.

[@theovallas]

AutoRestoMod Car Restoration Modification ⭐️ Please let us know how it works out!

[@cutworm59]

Almost makes me want to build my 428.....almost.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Do it...DO IT!

[@DodgeTruck]

Don't use Stainless bolts or nuts on things that get hot. They are fine now but give it a week and you have a 50% chance the nuts will not come off and after a few months of running and you will have to cut 90% of the bolts off. They will seas up and be a bear to get off. Use reg grade 5 or grade 8 bolts on exhaust manifolds or anything that gets hot then cools down.

[@AutoRestoMod]

You're absolutely correct about that. We won't be using stainless when we go back in to rebuild the engine. And that's gonna be pretty soon.

[@gamwsas]

shouldnt you disassemble the engine in order to paint it?

[@AutoRestoMod]

Not really.

[@brandonmaurer2581]

just paint everything..earl schieb

[@clevelandmaker386]

I wish y'all could have saved the original valve covers.....could have painted it Corp blue with white lettering!

[@thecriminal0105]

That paint job looks terrible I hate when people paint over every single bolt it looks so bad