AVOID These CHEAP CARS

[@simonh870]

£3000 now buys about the same as £1000 did 5 years ago. With regard to the Yaris, avoid the Multimode automated manual (MMT). They are known for problems. A friend of mine had no end of issues with his.

[@tardeliesmagic]

Totally agree.

[@peterhayward1848]

I've had two and had no problems at all but both quite low mileage.

[@Luke-i3e]

Avoid anything German if you want reliability

[@version736ha2]

Horrible gearbox

[@nadanczysykowski1712]

​@@Luke-i3eUnless it's more than 20 years old. But then you must be aware of rust

[@johndawson5718]

I agree go for the Hondas. Had a 2.2 diesel 2008 Civic , noisy but solid engine no issues and would run forever at motorway speed. Did John O’Groats to Lands End in two trips, 50+ MPG . I’d have another anytime. Stylish too, years ahead of their time looks wise. In my opinion anyway.

[@Fiery-venom99]

Had my 1.8 civic for 8yrs and no problem. It was just time for a newer car. So went for Toyota. I always stay Japanese

[@thetruth7633]

2008 is i-CTD, they were more noisy and less refined. Chain, EGR , intake manifold breaking problems, other than that more lively than DTEC because no DPF and short gear ratios.

[@jdickson242]

People don't maintain cars properly then moan their car is unreliable. They wait until a major problem presents itself which can often be avoided through further fixing a minor problem. I've had a Peugeot 207 1.6hdi and a ford with the same engine, both flawless. I will say the Peugeot is however weak on the front end and the wishbones needed replacing at 80k

[@gravemind6536]

Peugeots have the worst clutches I've ever experienced horrible to drive. I would never buy one and that's before even considering relability.

[@jonathanpork-sausage617]

Probably at these prices the maintenance and general care plus who you buy it from are the deciding factors. Even a Honda can be knackered by the right people.

[@tardeliesmagic]

Thing is they change their oil with cheap oil which isn't good in the long run.

[@CheapBastard1988]

The Peugeot 1.6hdi isn't that bad. The Peugeot 1.6thp (also found in the Mini) is the awful one everyone should avoid.

[@Gmancro929]

Every single one

[@alfaradbean]

I have driven Peugeot 1,6 Hdi for nearly ten years and think they are great engines

[@thurmanmerman9099]

i had the 1.4 hdi and owned it for 5 years, it never let me down

[@richardweyland116]

Boring.

[@jamesheath7596]

Agree, I’ve got the same. 15 years old 85000 miles, runs great

[@ryanh3285]

They are i had that engine in a Mazda 3 only the injector seals were an issue otherwise its a great little engine easy to service low tax and good on fuel.

[@isaiqbal3138]

Even the 2.0 HDI pegouts. Awesome cars 307 :)

[@fatroberto3012]

A lot of people who are looking at "cheap" cars are only going to do low mileages. The slight increase in fuel cost of a petrol model (only about £80 a year if you do 2000 miles) is more than offset by not having to deal with DPF problems. For town use, petrol is just nicer!

[@philmoffett366]

My 2014 ford focus 1.6 diesel which had the same engine as all the French car manufacturers was an absolute peach of a motor I bought in with 35k on it and someone crashed into it while it was parked and wrote it off but it had 288k on it and it never missed a beat and always passed its MOT advisory free! Brilliant car👍

[@sbrader97]

Yeah the later 115hp 8v 1.6 tdci fixed the issues with the oil gauze for the turbo and other design flaws of the 110hp 16v one in the mk2 focus but I've heard the later ones suffer from injector failures I'm shocked to hear u made it to 288k miles that's impressive

[@ryanh3285]

​@@sbrader97Replace the injector seals for the updated slightly thicker ones and they are a decent little engine however i now drive a civic 1.6 idtec which is even better and even high mileage well serviced ones wouldn't put me off at all and no ad blue shite.

[@sbrader97]

@ryanh3285 Looked at old spaceship civics people wanted too much money for such old bangers with cloudy headlights and loads of mot advisory for corrosion and suspension etc I know they're reliable cars though engine wise but I don't think its the seals that the 8v suffers from as much they updated the injector clamp design to help with the seals it's just the piezo injectors get worn out over time and eventually get so worn beyond its correction limits or injector completely fails as they are running such high pressures that they are sensitive to small bits of dirt and needing good lubrication

[@ElleyElley-et4ky]

2014 is still new 😂. My inlaws have a 2002 1.3 Toyota Yaris with 150k on the clock. Cant hear it running its so smooth. Never missed a beat in its 23 years

[@easydrive3662]

Mk1 ford focus is such a reliable car, in my opinion they run better and look far better than every other model that came out after.

[@andybrowne2117]

As a 2008 Honda Jazz driver I couldn't agree more about Honda ! Before this I had a 2.0 liter Civic S from 2000 , I think , both are and were very cheap to purchase and very reliable over many years ! Always enjoy your romp though the auto trader , top man , thanks .

[@ianbeale2527]

I'm a 30+ year Land Rover owner. Had lots of different models over the years. But I can say this - my Freelander 2 i6 3.2 petrol has been by far the best of the bunch. Reliability wise it's let me down once - and that was down to me incorrectly diagnosing the wrong fault before a 200 mile journey ! I've had it 10 years and it's passed every MOT in that time without advisories ! It's now on 150.000 miles and I'm really at a loss as to what to replace it with. The key to it's longevity is preventative maintenance. My brother was so impressed he bought himself one. He's just part ex'd it for a RRS after clocking 200K ! It was a sport LE and still looked and drove as good as new with no corrosion. However, I will say this - most owners shy away from doing anything but repairs when they fail the MOT and won't touch the Advisories. Many have been abused in this way - missed services etc. So beware. Always check the MOT on line. That'll show if it's been run on a shoestring - in other words the owner only bothers putting fuel in it between MOT's. So a Full Service History is a must. There are plenty around. Always go for the highest spec you'r budget will allow, the lesser specs are usually more neglected or abused . But make sure EVERYTHING works as things like window regulators , although not expensive to buy, will cost a fortune in labour costs if you're not handy with the spanners ! Mis-matching tyres are also a sign of being run on a shoestring, too.

[@Jon-zj2nj]

I’m on my 5th over 13 1/2 years, either buying new, near new or with 147,000 miles. All have been good and with the current one being a 2015 MY Metropolis, I have nowhere left to go, so it’ll get run and run and run! Incidentally, I bought my last one from Fame Cars (the dealer in the photo!) and that was an interesting experience!

[@rb9580]

Yes, another vote for the FL2! As long as you buy with your eyes open and get good advice before spending any money on it once you have it. Too many garages will spend your money on parts-cannon repairs for these, rather than proper investigation and a cheap fix!

[@ianbeale2527]

Just to add. If you are thinking of buying a Freelander 2, then check out the dedicated on line forums. There are plenty of "what do I need to look for " type questions to help you avoid buying a lemon. There are some fantastic deals to be had if you are armed with a little knowledge - but there are also abused sheds waiting to devour your money.

[@brianmonahan7990]

All cars have their problems however some have a lot more than others , I will stick with Honda for now !

[@davidmccready6471]

My Suzuki Swift has been faultless in my 4 years of ownership. It is coming up to 8 years of age now and it is still a joy to drive and cheap to run. I look at the price of used cars now and think I’ll keep the Swift for a good while yet.

[@brianmonahan7990]

Totally agree the prices of cars now are unnecessarily high, keep the Suzuki Swift as long as possible , I have only heard good things of their reliability.👍

[@jdmguy44]

My 2018 Mazda 2 has been completely faultless in the five years I've had it.

[@iCozzh]

Just bought my mrs her first car, 2015 1.25 zetec fiesta, 87k miles had the timing done, £2,600 all in. Needed two new rear springs and bushings, £40 parts, replaced them myself. Cars good as gold!

[@WauliePaulnuts246]

1.9 CDTI/Fiat Multijet. 8valve engines are better than the 16valve. Also non dpf models are available. Brilliant power and torque. Easily tuned. Can achieve well over 200k

[@PPhase]

I brought a freelander 2 earlier this year for £1350 spent a further 500 quid on maintenance repairs (control arms and a couple bearings ) and have since traveled the whole country in it, and I love it. The 2.2 returns me 41mpg even if I'm blasting at 70/80mph on long motorway trips, the 2.2 is actually a Ford transit engine since Ford owned landrover at the time and that was built by pegeout so fairly reliable since its a simple van engine

[@christopherspencer3124]

It’s not a transit engine

[@dh1380]

Imagine buying an Audi TTS for 3k. Thats insanity. I've spent just as much fixing it 😅 actually who am i kidding ive spent double. In my opinion the only cheap car you should buy (if you like cars) is one you can afford to buy AND fix. That way you might end up with a car you actually like that didnt cost 40 grand but its still gonna be a money pit. Unfortunately i do not view cars as just a functional thing. I love cars and i love driving. So this is the only model that works for me. Otherwise I'd just buy an old volvo and drive it until im dead. Mechanical sympathy is what matters. Not MOT or service history really. It's about understanding cars and paying the money to keep them straight.

[@lazer5582]

I have a Peugeot 308hdi estate 2013,its cheap road tax,good on diesel,massive carrying capacity,i,ve been all over uk n europe,kept it serviced and its never ever let me down.

[@jamesheath7596]

Exactly the same with my 1.6 sw 2009

[@jayhaux8321]

had my civic 2.2 diesel for 16 years bought it with 8k miles on now 160k miles , its been fantastic but i did replace the rear beam a year ago only other things have been wear and tare items . still on the original clutch .

[@cz9860]

I'm looking at one of those. How much was the replacement beam??

[@jayhaux8321]

​@@cz9860 eBay £180 plus fitting.

[@johndawson5718]

Totally agree , see below 😊

[@HysteriaForever]

Forgot Volvo V70s and XC70s with the bulletproof 2.4 D5 engine in it back when Volvo was Volvo

[@aero2507]

Can wholeheartedly agree on the 1.0 engine in the corsa. Ex had one. 18.2 seconds to 60. So slow that overtaking a tractor was terrifying!

[@shanepatrick641]

The MK1 Ford Focus's are generally very reliable cars and fun to drive. Granted you have to watch out for rust and you may have to replace a bunch of suspension parts due to neglect. But they are very overlooked and becoming rare. I currently have a mk2 Ford Focus Ghia 1.8. Good cars...

[@craigjardine3989]

Great advice and content. A bit of servicing goes a long way. Have owned an accord tourer, civic, multiple CR-Vs and generally only needed wear and tear parts so big up the Hondas! The dreaded ULEZ though is a concern for city dwellers

[@cmagennis927]

The old myth that Honda are unbeatable 🤣 The gearboxes are made from chocolate, the timing chains are fairly prone to failure and those 1.8 VTEC’s are fond of a head gasket…. Then there’s the absolute terminal rust after 10 years. I recently scrapped a 2012 Jazz with 70k because it was totally rotten underneath.

[@jamesmacdonald1116]

Newer Hondas are not up to scratch, anything pre 2008 will go forever. They earned the rep in the 80s and 90s. Anyone will agree newer ones are a scar to the Honda name.

[@klawlor3659]

Really? 2012 civic owner here, with 174k miles and serviced by myself regularly. Little bit of rust underneath (to be expected as I live in southern Scotland) but no issues so far. Gearbox is spot on (much better than the Corolla it replaced).

[@Sython6]

The mechanic I know round the corner from me has a bunch of Jazz Courtesy cars, he tells me the manual version of the Jazz has issues but the automatics are quite reliable. My friend has a 1.8 VTEC and the Vtec system had issues, from what i've heard Honda's need to be adjusted now and then because thier engines run on a older system.

[@Old_Geezer]

There are always exceptions to prove any rule. My 2008 Civic 1.8 VTEC has been reliable and has, well let's just say, it's well, well past the 100,000 mile mark with no major issues. Just servicing and consumables - mainly brake discs, pads, a couple of suspension struts at the front just before I bought the car. No serious corrosion to speak of and I live on the coast. Good looking, even today, well equipped, economical too and the amount of space is astounding for a car of its size - especially when the clever folding seat configurations are deployed. Worst issue I had was a leaking rear window seal which the dealer fixed under warranty (I bought it used) and also a leak in the front passenger footwell which is a common problem for the model and easily fixed - apparently - the dealer sorted that for free too. One of the best cars I've ever owned to be honest.

[@MikeH401]

My Honda Civic 1.8 vtec is brilliant. No rust. Great engine and gearbox. Same as any vehicle you have to maintain them.

[@tardeliesmagic]

Had a 2002 Yaris 1.3L 4 speed auto for 13yrs,utterly reliable as i looked after it,others around aint so much. Had very little rust & never failed or advised on rust as GT86 was my best friend. Best i got was 48mpg, town about 33mpg.

[@larryrichmond8929]

have 2010 1.6tdi Octavia 220000 miles on clock, brilliant engine gearbox steering, but ah, now have airbag warning light on, after 2k euro spent on timing belt water pump, thermostat, abs ring and sensor, EGR cooler and valve,

[@rodpanhard]

My car buying strategy has always been to buy a car for 3k run for 5 years then sell for 1k, I think that's the best bang for bucks motoring.

[@JC-hu1wd]

I buy for £2k with £1k reserve to do up.

[@sebastianlada9102]

I currently drive a 2005 Audi A3 quattro 2.0 TDI that I bought for £300 with 3 months MOT, passed MOT with one bush and the registration lights, spent £450 on it so far including R32 brakes, Recycling is in my blood, bought a golf once 1.9 TDI for £250 with the gearbox removed, got a whole other engine from a wrecked one for £300 with gearbox clutch and all the bits, gott the gearbox fitted on the owners driveway and drove home😂

[@rodpanhard]

@@sebastianlada9102 Nice one, I should have said my current strategy is to buy for 3k, my best cars have all been £400, usually old Totota Camrys that some pensioner has got too old to hang on to their licence. Those days are long gone sadly.

[@JC-hu1wd]

@sebastianlada9102 Tremendous!

[@MrDblStop]

I'm nearly five years in with a 2011 £3k Astra, and it's cost a lot in repairs. I think I might have just been unlucky with this one though. But now that so much has been sorted I'll keep it for longer. I imagine the sums would be similar in depreciation on a newer one vs repairs to an older one, and there are no guarantees with reliability for newer ones anyway. I like buying outright and not having any HP, and would probably do the same again. And no screens and driver assist features is a big plus for me.

[@FreeSpeech-q7v]

Peugeot 308 . Skoda Octavia. Fiat 500 1.2 sux. Hyundai i10. Vauxhall Vectra 3.0 cdti. Land Rover. Toyota Yaris RUST. Civic not independent rear suspension. Jazz RUST & CVT

[@cmagennis927]

The 3.0 Isuzu engine in the Vectra was also used in Renault Vel Satis and Espace. They suffered from head gasket issues in those too, I don’t think it matters what application it’s fitted to, they’re all kettles!

[@brenglover72]

Had a vectra with the the V6 diesel. Developed an appetite for coolant. Went for parts. Avoid.

[@dunnockdan]

1.8VVT is the one to go for at this price point, very reliable, economical engine.

[@cmagennis927]

Peugeot 1.4 and 1.6 HDI are highly recommended, service them with the correct oil and they’re brilliant. I have a 2009 308 1.6 HDI 110 with over 200k miles which I bought in 2017 with 80k. It has cost me a clutch and gearbox and that’s it! Routine servicing with the correct oil is the key.

[@GaryBox]

The 1.6 HDI engine lasts if you use low ash oil but I wouldn't touch a modern Peugeot diesel for many other reasons. AdBlue injector issues, DPF issues even if you only did motorway miles and very expensive alternator due to stop start. Old French diesel was fine and at this budget you might be looking at older models but as the years go by the better cheap buys will be naturally aspirated petrol cars from the Japanese brands.

[@jamesheath7596]

@@GaryBox yes I’ve had diesels for many years but I’m starting to look towards petrol again now due to emissions controls on diesels.

[@GaryBox]

@@jamesheath7596 Almost everyone I speak to has horror stories about DPF, AdBlue etc and they are never cheap fixes.

[@robincook3367]

The 3.0 V6 CDTI Isuzu engine was good, not unreliable and weren't bad on fuel - had a Signum with that engine in. Only issue was due to a software upgrade being needed for the EGR valve, it would sometimes 'hammer' away then go into limp mode, and you had to restart.

[@DaleSteel]

Freelander 2 don't really break. Obviously heavy on wear parts as are all big cars. Has the 2.2 ford derived engine. Bullet proof.

[@cmagennis927]

It’s a Peugeot 2.2 HDI engine, Ford had no hand in this engine, they simply use it and that’s all.

[@garywinterbottom6073]

They if I'm correct are Peugeot hdi diesel motor as is 1.6tdci.😊

[@DaleSteel]

@garywinterbottom6073 you are absolutely incorrect. It's derived from the ford transit was used in the model ST diesel, jaguar X type. Then PSA removed timing chain and swapped for belt plus some other minor tweaks and it was then used in many other vehicles such as freelander 2, discovery sport, evoque, jaguars, etc on and on. It is a FORD engine which got modified slightly around 2006 by PSA

[@DaleSteel]

@cmagennis927 NO it's not. It's a FORD engine like I just said. PSA made some changes around 2006. It was always the firs duratorq underneath

[@cmagennis927]

@@DaleSteel You are totally and absolutely incorrect. 2.2 DW12 is a Peugeot engine which came out in year 2000 in the 406 and 607. It started out as 136bhp then over the years they brought it up to 156bhp, 170bhp, 190bhp, 205bhp. Ford didn’t start using this PSA engine until 2007 Mondeo, S-Max and Galaxy cars came along. I have seen the 2.2 DW12 and the Ford 2.2 PUMA bare engines and they have absolutely nothing in common.

[@steviefn2typer]

You know my opinions on Hondas mate, totally agree with your list, Toyota or Honda is your best bet at that budget, find a good one you’re quids in

[@MrJamesjen1]

Yet again by far and away the BEST car channel out by there

[@-DC-]

We had a new Corsa that needed a Timing Chain before it's first service started rattling on start up with 3k on the clock, Absolute 💩

[@shaka7594]

Think you was just unlucky with a lemon car

[@jayc342009]

I just did mine, check the cam solenoids btw, the seals wear out and oil leaks through them.

[@MrBrendanrex]

I recently sold my 2011 Hyundai i30 with the 1.6 diesel engine. 296,000 miles, never had the engine check light on, still on the original DPF, EGR, injectors. Apart from regular oil and filter changes, a couple of aux drive belts, replacement alternator, the engine hasn't been touched. Clutch lasted up to 245,000 miles. Just needed a track rod end to pass last MoT

[@johnkerby70]

My 2010 i30 diesel has done 161,000 miles, all bar the first 5k driven by me. All original apart from the air con rad which was replaced last summer, and replacement drop links all round. The engine feels like new and averages 57mpg. I think lots of motorway driving helps. The only weak point is the heater as the core is clogged.

[@tonyireland2234]

If it was that good why did you sell it ? This the question I always asked myself when looking at used cars.

[@MrBrendanrex]

@@johnkerby70 I got my heater working again just by reverse-flushing the heater matrix with a garden hose.. Pretty easy to do.

[@MrBrendanrex]

@@tonyireland2234 My partner was doing 25-30k miles/year, and decided it was about time to get something more refined and with less miles, and pass the old one to someone else that would give it an easier life. We now both have the next generation 65 reg i30 with the same D4FB engine. These are euro 6 so ULEZ compliant. I made a video about the old car, 'Real experience of a high mileage Hyundai diesel'

[@mjolnir_swe]

Hyundai CRDi 1.6 is great.

[@lascm5237]

Bought my 2008 FL2 five years ago, regular maintenance and 128000 miles, no rust issues and out of all cars owned over the years my favourite, surprisingly durable 👍

[@gravemind6536]

The 2.2 Diesel in the Land Rover was reliable because it wasn't made by them Ford and Peugeot developed the engine and it was basically just an upgrade 2.2 Diesel from the Transit van.

[@cmagennis927]

2.2 TD4 & SD4 is a Peugeot HDI, nothing to do with Ford.

[@stephenbridge4019]

I had a 2010 Hyundai i10 until recently and had owned it for 5 years. Other than break pads and discs, 4 tyres the only thing that went went wrong was a sensor that cost £8 odd to fix

[@MehdiS-music]

Agree, Owned a 2007 1.1L Getz and a 2017 i20 1.2L both super reliable cars ans the i20 Mk2 are really well made and equipped cars, no experience with the 1.0L Turbo but the 1.2L NA engine is great on fuel, torque and super reliable as long as oil changes are kept below the manufacturers recommendation.

[@DavidRedshaw-i2h]

Got a 2012 i10 27k for 600 quid 18 months ago absolutely great little car 👍

[@MehdiS-music]

@@DavidRedshaw-i2h That is dirt cheap and they are good cars!

[@DavidRedshaw-i2h]

@ i bought off an old guy that lives next to me he said there was something wrong with it kept stalling when pulling away and thought it needed a new clutch it had been dealer serviced since new i offered him £1000 but he said he would be happy with 600 next day took it for a run out drove like a dream it’s in absolute mint condition love it great little car had to be the deal of the year 🤗👍

[@Get-Native]

I cannot recommend anyone buys the 1.6 diesel variants of the Octavia, or any VW diesel below 2 or 1.9 litres. I used to work for a Skoda specialist and those 1.6’s were just awful. DPF blocking, EGR failures on 40k mile cars, and they just stank on idle. Gutless. The 1.9/ 2.0 is engine choice for taxis.

[@MehdiS-music]

The 2.0 TDI have issues the old 1.9TDI is bulletproof.

[@petersmith7126]

​@@MehdiS-music...the 2.0 BKD Engine with the PD fuel is more reliable than the more modern CR engine

[@MehdiS-music]

@@petersmith7126 Everything VW post 2002 is pretty much rubbish, no wonder they are going bust soon.

[@Andrew-q2c6d]

​@@MehdiS-music2 litre is absolutely fine

[@vxvii9069]

@@Andrew-q2c6dBKDs eat turbos for breakfast. CR TDIs are much better especially with a DPF/EGR delete. Mine still has all emissions stuff in place and it’s never once had a DPF regen light. EGR packed up but that was because the previous owners barely took it above 25 mph. Since then the only thing it’s had is a throttle body and tires. Also replaced the battery but that’s routine maintenance on all cars anyway. Goes like a rocket ship and gets 61+ mpg with zero effort to conserve fuel when I do extended drives to visit family. Doesn’t chug either. Cracking engine.

[@RichardAllen-rm1bp]

Bought my 308 new in 2013 its 1.6 petrol , been 100% reliable and now done 80,000 miles.No rust , original exhaust battery lasted 9 years.Dam good car.

[@razvanursache9493]

The 1.6 hdi isn't bad engine at all. It's been, and still being, used by a lot of other car brands, like Ford, Mazda, Volvo, and of course Peugeot, Citroen and DS.

[@SusanHoward-nu4oe]

I just want to fly the flag for the Honda Insight. Mine was registered in November 2011. I got it in 2014 with 9000 on the clock. It has now got almost 60,000 (not a lot I know). In that time I’ve had 2 lots of tyres, 1light bulb, and 2 brake pads. It picks its feet up quite well, has large boot space. I’ll cry when it dies.

[@Chris-v4z1t]

Got ASTRA J 1.6, don't care it's slow, 38 mpg auto. Loads of minor faults mainly sensors and oil leaks but drives very well....

[@KizzieWiz]

I have a 2010 Hyundai i20 since 2013. Only thing I’ve had replaced are the tyres. It’s an automatic and I would definitely buy another one.

[@kevinlawes591]

Nissan Notes have served me well last one was 1.4 petrol £250 with 65k 2 months mot got 3 years out of it apart from tyres and service stuff only a ball joint before clutch finally went got £140 back scrap! Latest run about is a 2010 Qashqai 1.5dci which was free spent £25 so far on a blower motor but mot is due needs a cv joint and a couple of tyres fingers crossed🤞👍🏻

[@jeremywentworth1833]

As an ex multiple Saab owner now have a 93 in disguise a 2.0T Caddy BLS the 3.0 diesel was in the 95. Was thinking about replacing our DS3 at sometime with a Jazz but at 55 don't think im old enough & my partner shes even younger don't you have to be an OAP to own 1 lol.

[@keithnewton8981]

Saab 95 and in various renaults as well as signal vectra. And saab 93

[@nightstorm9128]

Two bulletproof cars ,,,,Mitsubishi colt with 1.1 and 1.3 engines,,,Best car I ever had,,,Suzuki alto,,Uber simple,,Nothing to go wrong,,Dacia sandero,,Again super simple,,Tried and trusted old tech,,Cheap to run and Cheap to buy,,,Although the new models are starting to introduce more and more computers for the more and more useless gadgets and safety systems that don't work and nobody needs,,,

[@ProGamerru]

Corsa is a great, unbreakable and fast car. Of course, if 1.6

[@samfromuk]

Thank you for sharing your wisdom. Very useful tips.

[@seanye239]

I just bought a 61 plate peugeot 308 1.6 hdi with loads of options for £600 lol. Needs drop links and release bearing is sticky but its less than £200 for entire clutch kit and both front drop links so ill take that as a win when they were selling for 2500 a month ago

[@nightstorm9128]

The Peugeot 308 didn't have a DPF in 2011,,These were excellent little cars,,The 1.6 hdi without the DPF could go 400k miles if looked after,,,,Try getting that from any new car today,,,

[@jamesheath7596]

@@nightstorm9128 I have an 09 with a dpf and fap. 85000 miles and no trouble up to now touch wood.

[@jayc342009]

So many people don't look after their cars, i've done quite a bit of work on my corsa and it runs much better than it did.

[@miskatonic6210]

Well, most people have a job and kids. Or are over 55 and can barely do a situp. What do you expect?

[@tonysoprano9370]

Well you pay someone to do it. If you can’t afford maintenance, don’t buy a car

[@gwalia2112]

One thing people don't look at is that many of not most of the time if you're purely a townie on a budget then you're actually better off getting a 5 speed, especially if you lug family around. Geared better for town driving, less gear changes as each gear is longer, usually and townies lugging family units round barely use 6th because of the constant extra load and if they are at using 6th at low speed regularly they are guaranteed to choke their DPF to an expensive death. 100% do not dismiss the 5 speed units especially if you're a townie. We've got a 6 speed Civic 1.6 diesel and live very rural. 6th isn't used much tbh unless we're doing a longer trip with some open road but it's rare. Motorways obviously it's used then.

[@Bri-yt2pv]

i have a 2013 Chevrolet Cruze 1.7 VCDI (136) estate i love it cost me £6000 7 years ago with 40'000 on the clock now be about £2000 at most has sat nav reverse cameras half leather and climate control

[@coling7091]

Vectra engine is is the same as a Saab 93 2.0t (year 03 on) I think. 19 yr old Saab owner with 137K. It refuses to die, so in my opinion the older Vectras (if thats anything to go by) are great cars

[@celsiocunha4282]

I wont say the corsa D is reliable by any means based on general owner however i own one for 3 years now as my first car I bought it with 62k miles and it has been extremely reliable for me most expensive thing I paid for it was a shock absorver £130 all done, I think reliability has to do with maintaining and how you treat the car but also luck what is reliable for you might not be for another person

[@jayc342009]

They're great cars because of how cheap parts are for them and they're reasonably easy to work on.

[@mayneplaysgames2601]

i got a citren saxo 1.1. Desire 73k miles legit for 600

[@martinhancock9235]

2009 Civic with around 260K miles and still going strong . 2.2l diesel is very reliable and I'd definitely have another.

[@sunsetexplorer63936]

I struggled to get a 1.2 Corsa up to a decent speed on the motorway, so I dread to think what the 1.0’s like.

[@stephendonkin5497]

Great review mate can you please do your top ten brand of motors to look for for around this sort of money

[@MikeSmith-ye9ho]

I had a Astra club 1600 160,000 miles It went like stink I don’t know whether the previous owner had had it mapped. The only problem I had with it was the coil pack. I plugged the diagnostic machine into it, pressed reset, and it went perfect. I don’t know why but it worked

[@volt8684]

I have an 18 plate crv. The bloody rear calipers have seized3 times and is a common fault.

[@jamesheath7596]

I have an 09 Peugeot 308 1.6 has 86000 miles, apart from regular servicing had not 1 penny spent on any kind of repairs. Like anything, keep it well maintained and it will be ok

[@Nick-io9uk]

1.6 diesel or petrol?

[@jamesheath7596]

@ it’s a diesel

[@Nick-io9uk]

A fine motor then. The 1.6 and 2.0 hdi are frequently used in the Peugeot expert based e7 taxis. It's not uncommon to see them on the second hand market with 3 or even 5 or 600,000 miles on them still going strong. Mine is on 90,000 and still drives like new. The 1.6 is slightly less tolerant of missed oil changes than the 2.0 that is all​@@jamesheath7596

[@owensteele1645]

Non-turbo petrol engines were even more dire when fitted to the Zafira Tourer. And you could get an even smaller engine with your Astra J. One of my colleagues had LR62FKZ, a 98bhp 1.4 non-turbo petrol Astra 'Exclusiv' (Vauxhall's spelling, not mine.) It was a bit slow. Thirsty too. But it was reliable and you could even take it into ULEZ zones, by which time you will have turned into a starving skeleton. The 1.4 with the turbo was (just about) alright I suppose. But they are still quite expensive.

[@stanstan8374]

Hi,I had most of my life french cars. Mainly Renaults, Peugeots. Last 10years I had Peugeot 206 1.9d,Peugeot 307SW 2.0HDI-136hp,Peugeot 308cc 2.0hdi 163hp. All engines I did more then 60000mil without one issue,and last one one I still got and now Im doing 1.7mil to work,schools,shopping,so very low distances without issue with DPF. And I forgot to mention 307sw Hdi-136hp engine was tuned for 160hp-no single issue for 80000 until I'd sold. Peugeot 308cc 2.0Hdi-163hp engine has tunning aswell for 195hp. Beautiful cars and engine. I do not agree with you. All cars and liability are depends mainly maintenance on how often the oil change was serviced and, quality and how they were driven.

[@ANationalAcrobat-qj2dl]

An automatic gearbox would be a deal breaker for me. I have looked at a few Hyundais & the build quality is awful - the cabin trim seems to have come from the bargain basement of a Poundland shop. Dreadful.

[@ricoeltico1]

Honda civic 2.2 diesel 12 plate hatchback. Magic car been in family 9 year still mint fingers crossed. Value now about 3k 130k miles.

[@Finglesham]

I would say look for a Kia Piccanto. I have a 2010 from new and now 61000 miles. Only probem has been rear ABS sensor on both sides. Dealer fixed one £450, i did teh other £50 - from E bay but I did have to buy a code reader first . But not very powerful so best off motorways. I have a Focus 150 TDCi for those journeys. They both do about 50 mpg strangely enough. You know so much about so many cars . Very impressive knowledge.

[@MrBrendanrex]

I had to replace an ABS sensor on a 2011 Hyundai, cost me £18 off eBay. It just worked, no programming required. I didn't need any diagnostics, the lead broke when I was taking the strut out

[@derin111]

People have said it’s not these cars fault but rather that people neglect to spend the necessary effort and money on appropriate maintenance. This is true. But, the trouble with these cars is because they are not really very nice cars to start off with people are less inclined to look after them well and spend on the preventative maintenance that is needed. So, it becomes a downward, self-fuelling spiral. I remember Porsche used to use, as one of their marketing claims at the time, how nearly all Porsches ever made were still on the road, as if this was some proof of their exemplary build quality. Of course, this is misleading in the other direction! If a car is that expensive and good to start off with, of course people are going to be more inclined to spend more effort and money on keeping it on the road!

[@peterweber79]

Honda Cr-z build in japan, no turbo, old (and very reliable) mild-hybrid technologies (first gen.) and also available with manual transmission. mine has over 200k and zero problems...

[@superthierry1]

A bargain family car which goes completely under the radar is the Mazda 6. I owned the Tamura, on a 2007. Was brilliant to drive, extremely reliable, pretty much up with with Honda and Toyota. They can be had for peanuts, better opt for the 2.5 sport which comes with everything. Rust is the biggest achillies heal tho.

[@jdmguy44]

Yep I concur. I had that exact car in silver. Good looking thing with the standard body kit. Bought at two years old and sold at nine years old. Ran like a clock.

[@Kendoddsdadsdogsdead532]

Anything with a 1.5 DCi engine is good as long as it has had fair maintenance. Dacia Sandero Stepway for me......

[@jamesheath7596]

@@Kendoddsdadsdogsdead532 I’m thinking of one of those. Looks good value.

[@JC-hu1wd]

Thank you Grant. Love your channel. How's the souped up Honda Jazz?

[@leewalerzak]

I never trust that vehicle score for instance it don't take into account how often someone has serviced the car and changed the big ticket items when recommended also most ppl have friendly mot testers especially in house mot testers

[@whizzkid182]

Abit if needed advice here needed, got a Peugeot 206 hdi 1.4 eco, got it from the owner of car from new, got it with 38k on the clock and now it’s hitting 50k with me, the engine started everytime, i put a short shifter to help with the long 1st to 2rd gear change although does suffer with high biting point, but everytime else seems to want to go, wishbones, brake pipes, coil springs, top mounts, Is it worth spending the money to sort these things? Or should I just scrap it?, The cars headlights are weak, the driving position does taking get some used to, the back lights sometimes have electrical issues and I know the rear axle goes in these but hasn’t in mine, I know it’s a shed, but I got it for £500 from an old gentleman, it cost me £300 to insurance and £35 to tax, It feels like the lower end used market is filled with people buying cars for scrap price and either doing mates mots, and leaving you with a car even worse at the cost of you for thousands of pounds. Invest and keep it?, scrap it? Or drive it into a brick wall awhile not wearing a seat belt? 😂

[@Sython6]

Watch out for the clutch in the 2.2 Diesel Honda's, especially Before 2010 they are known to be weak. I Have a 2.2 civic and had to replace flywheel and clutch at 65,000 miles, at 130000 miles at moment and so far its fine with revised clutch. I did have a problem with seals on rear boot leaking which I had to have fixed. If you want to work on your car yourself beyond simple oil change, get the 1.8 petrol because the 2.2 is a nightmare to work on as its engine jam packed into the car. you have to take the battery out and move the washer fluid overflow out the way just to change the headlights, I've cut my hands multiple times just trying to undo things to get to the stupid headlight bulbs. If you can get through all that its a fun nippy car, personally im just gonna get a petrol car next time even with the high mileage I like to do.

[@waltdisnenycopyright8048]

So many honda crvs where i live by the sea in the east coast, and older retired people, so there must be something about them, also loads of evs, mainly on disability, but you can have one next week and a free home charger, ile give that a miss and stick to my old mg lol

[@ericshaun6078]

Funny thing is, the best cars in this collection were the ones he dismissed first, the Peugeot HDIs.

[@TheReargunner]

I want a volvo xc90 t8 ,in the new year, about 2017, but they arnt cheap, , should i go to a acution, or haggle with a private seller or dealer ?i love this channel

[@gilleyb1900]

Private seller or dealer imho, it might have gone to an auction for a reason.

[@susanb.1113]

Beg, borrow or steal the extra you need to get one through a dealer, get some warranty with it, Camerons Volvo in Perth (scotland, not australia, very highly recommended).

[@TheReargunner]

@@susanb.1113 Thank you ,

[@MehdiS-music]

Don´t buy a modern Volvo if you do not have much money, the newer once are not as good cars as the old good Swedish tanks they used to be.

[@morceeable]

What filters do you have set on the search?

[@susanb.1113]

I had a Volvo p2 V70 , went to 289,000 miles before scrapping it, only paid £500 and had it for 4 years without even so much as an oil change.

[@chrishart8548]

4 years without an oil change is brave. Oil is literally £16 for comma oil on e bay its what I've used for the last 20 years with no issues.

[@paul-k5q5z]

i love all your car content m8ty i would go for a older 8p 1.6tdi A3 20 tax & cheap to buy.

[@peterkelly9540]

I have a chance of a Toyota urban cruiser. It's a 2004 I think. 1.4 diesel engine. Is there anything I need to check out before using it?

[@UncleMort]

Hi, I have an Urban Cruiser, think they only sold from 2009-12. If that`s the model with the 1.4 diesel then I have found no issues with it. Check all panels, especially around the windscreen for bubble rust. The AWD system only works up around 25-30 mph so not that much use. I find that it`s 6 speed box is great on longer journeys but the range is too small for round town, constantly shifting up and down with an annoying warning up/down shift light. Quirky fun car, solidly built with a responsive engine and light clutch, that you barely have to dip to change gear. Gears are lovely and close, select with one finger, no stirring around or long throw. Plus sides, quirky, nippy, reliable, economic, fun and different Down sides, very small boot, annoying parcel shelf and rear middle seat belt mount, rear seats do not fold flat and it has one gear too many.

[@peterkelly9540]

@UncleMort thank you for the advice

[@tsr207]

Had the 308SW (Sports wagon) superb car never let me down took me all over the UK in comfort and speed . Only disposed of it for a 2008. Don't believe everything you see on KZbin !

[@jamesheath7596]

Me too. Got a sw. owned it 6 years never needed repairing. Just servicing

[@fossilfish786]

How do you track the previous price via auto trader?

[@Billy_Rizzle]

It appears to be a Chrome Browser extension called: AT Price Tracker

[@Robbie_27]

I had a peugeot for 6 years, loved it.

[@alec1113]

First time on your channel , before you started talking, I knew you were scottish ? I do know why just did . Really enjoyed your video . Gaun yersel pal .

[@terencej72]

Erm recommending a 18 yr old Freelander? Unless the previous owners serviced and MOT'd it on the button and done preventative maintenance (dealt with MOT advisories promptly) then it's going to cost the same £2k+ in MOT's over the next 3 years. If i was spending 2.5k on a runaround it'd be a small city car like a Honda Jazz or Toyota (without the Multimode transmission) . Look an old lady car like a Jazz there's mainly 1 thing to check - the clutch. Is the clutch high and has been burned out by the feet dwelling on it at every gear change? If not then it's a solid punt, if it has and everything else is ok £400 gets you a new clutch and likely you'll get many years of motoring without much major mechanical expense

[@duncands9172]

That was brilliant but a few cars you missed were Ford, Volvo and Volkswagen. I can tell you something on Ford and Volvo. A good lets say 2010 Focus is an excellent buy because I see plenty of 2000 reg models around the place which means if you find a good 2010 1.6 petrol, service it regularly you are likely to get ten years or more out of it. A friend of mine got a 2013 Volvo V70 in 2018 now the 1.6 diesel V70 engines are made by Peugeot, and she loves and drives long distances in it. With that, I wouldn't be worried about an elderly 308 1.6 diesel because it is the same as the engine as the 1.6 diesel Volvo V70. I was talking to a couple recently who have a 2016 Peugeot 308 1.2 petrol and they love it, and every year they drive it to France from Ireland and across the alps to problem. A sister of mine has a trouble free 2014 Citroen Cactus and nothing would make her sell it, so perhaps you could do something on buying used Citroens as I'm sure there are plenty that come in the £2,500 range

[@dunnockdan]

Vectra 1.8VVT petrol is the engine to go for at this end of the market, regarding the Vectra.

[@metalscream3934]

Can you speak more about this stuttering fix on the CVT jazz?, I get this problem occasionally

[@MartinMagee-q2r]

Thanks for your constructive video. Found it very interesting ty

[@MartinMagee-q2r]

Would u recommend a fiat 500 for a newly qualified driver?

[@QAZ2453]

Also need to remember with the honda jazz. Is some engines have 8 spark plugs instead of 4

[@obtuse1291]

£25k, which you claim is not a lot of money, is more than 2x what most pensioners will be given to live on for a year. Just saying.

[@dan58234]

Peugeot 207 1.4 petrol owner here, starter motor and clutch went at 40k miles, cylinder head gasket went at 50k.

[@Philip---pip267]

You were more lucky than I was with mine. 207sw, 1.6 vti sport petrol. New, in 2007. My cylinder head went at 4k miles, 2years. Auful driving, stuttering low tick over, intermittent power up hills. Endless depollution system faults, where the would change some stupid sensor and charge £100 a time. Drank gallons of oil. New clutch at 8 years, 18,000 miles. Head gasket change. Abs issues. Ecu problem. Faulty indicator requiring new part loom. Finally, scrap at 13 years, 22,00 miles with a bang and a bill for 2,500 on an engine rebuild. And it always was looked after, and serviced regularly at a Peugeot dealer. I despise modern petrol and diesel cars, reliblitity is dreadful across the range. That car was the only brand new one I ever had, and it was by far the worst. Now driving a Hyundai Ioniq EV for 5 years, my blood runs cold when I see that Peugeot lion. . Never again.

[@uwestindt6811]

Der Motor war eine Gemeinschaftsproduktion von PSA und BMW. ​@Philip---pip267

[@jonathanpork-sausage617]

Can't there be clutch and injector/pump probs on the d crv?

[@marcusphoenixish]

I bought a peugeot 2008 1.2 2014, and it was a pile of crap. I soon shifted it within 6 months. It'sand got a wet belt and terrible electrics

[@JannyUK]

Think you'd do another for automatic cars? Only the ones with good gearboxes and engines. Unfortunately had bad problems with mk7 golf 1.4tsi and the dq200 box. No specific price.

[@formidable38]

Petrol K12 Micra, absolute bomb proof engine! *IF* you can find one with very little rust, seem to be shit or champagne on that score. Good little cars for a cheap runabout.

[@thehaffytaffy]

Great video, I just came across your channel and wanted to know if you got a video for new drivers recently passed their test, looking for a budget car cheap on insurance?

[@allanrobertson2401]

Very informative video.