AWI Project Log 3: British Infantry painted with Vallejo Xpress Colors (and friends)

Hello everyone. I have begun painting the British line for my American War of Independence project. This video details the painting process for the 17th Regiment of Foot (Leicestershire) with white facings, though it should be easy enough to add in a different facing colours as required. The models are painted largely with Vallejo Xpress Colors. Assume that unless mentioned, all the paints used are from that range:
Prime Colour Forge Matt White
Plasma Red
Dwarf Skin
Templar White
Xpress Color Medium
Black Lotus
Copper Brown
Wasteland Brown
Citadel Contrast Medium
Citadel Contrast Skeleton Horde
Citadel Contrast Bascilicanum Grey
Army Painter Platemail Metal
Army Painter Strong Tone

[@j.allen.howard]

Really love this series! I can’t wait to see how you assemble and paint the Continentals. Thank you for such a great video!

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

Thanks. I have plans for the Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania rifle and musketry regiments... But not enough free time! I will do something for the continentals in the next few months.

[@j.allen.howard]

@@CullodenPaintingStudio that sounds OUTSTANDING! I live near all of those states, here in the US, and am just getting into Napoleonics. My first order of 6mm is on it’s way from Baccus now. And, as you mentioned in one of your videos, I’m looking to do an AWI force in 28mm for use with Sharp Practice. As I dig through your back catalog, I am enjoying and learning a great deal. Thank you for all you do for the community!

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

@@j.allen.howard it's my pleasure to share the hobby with the greater community. Thanks for watching.

[@norm977]

Thank you, I am increasingly liking these and also increasingly understanding that with contrast / fast paint style paints, it is not a one shot solution and that standard acrylic and other brands of ‘fast paint / contrast, can play their part, but it still feels a faster way of getting acceptable pieces to the table, especially as most of us haves stashes of stuff in several periods to plough through.

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

The one coat paints are a great tool to speed up production, but they aren't the complete package. I am learning to use them for some circumstances on their own, and for others including them as part of bigger process, such as layering acrylics over the top. Thanks for watching.

[@liberator2408]

Very nice mate 👍

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

Cool thanks.

[@philRminiatures]

A nice tuto and a fantastic result, impressive flesh tones!

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

For a one coat solution, Dwarf Skin Xpress Color can't be beaten!

[@danbuman8422]

Great results! You are able to paint these up a lot quicker than my old school method. Love your AWI videos!!!!

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

I am glad you are enjoying the videos. I plan to take more time and a more traditional acrylic layering approach with some of the figures I have to do later in the project.

[@NicGamz]

Great tutorial. Very nice done. 👍

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

Thanks Nic

[@maryhinge6334]

Great work Rory. Particularly with that brush. It doesn’t look like it’s seen a point in some time! 😉😂

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

I know right? I need to get some synthetic brushes in as I don't trust my sable ones with Xpress Colors or Contrast Paints! That is one downside of them is they have a reputation for getting into ferrules and ruining expensive brushes!

[@user-mc4sq3fk5d]

Love these AWI videos. Question based on your experiences and skill level. As a beginner focused initially on AWI, ACW, Napoleonic, do you believe there is one speed paint better suited to historical between Citadel, AP speed paint 2.0 or Vallejo express?

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

I can't really answer that truthfully as I haven't used Speedpaint 2.0 outside of a couple of metallics. GW are decent, stable to paint over, but expensive. Vallejo are less expensive, have a less blotchy finish than GW, but as I found out to my shock, reactivate when brush on Winsor and Newton matt varnish is applied! I also feel that as they have to be applied over a light base coat and contained to one area (unless you want to be constantly reapplying the base coat), they aren't perfect for beginners. Once brush control has been established they become a useful tool. I think regular acrylics will always be needed to paint when starting out. Blocking in acrylics plus a wash is a solid foundation to build from.

[@user-mc4sq3fk5d]

Thank you!

[@basicminiaturepainting]

Nice tutorial mate,I don't own any of the paints so it's interesting to see the finish of them

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

I think they do a very good job. I just wish the range wasn't so limited. Need a decent grey and beige.

[@JoeCapurso]

Rudy - great stuff! Love the tutorial. Q - do you pin your minis to the base, or are they glued on after the texture is applied?

[@JoeCapurso]

By the way - I am from Long Island! We learned about that battle in elementary school!

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

That's really interesting. I hope I don't get all the details wrong with my interpretation of the actual historical record! The minis are superglued to the bases (20mm MDF rounds in this case), and then I apply the base texture. This covers over the integral puddle base and stops the model looking like he's standing on a little mound.

[@lutzderlurch7877]

Fine work. How would you paint the facings, of they were a colour other than white? Esp. how would you 'whiten' the lace? And how would you paint white hat trim?

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

Hello, thanks for watching. Typically when I am doing facings I will paint the facing colour and then go back over the lace with something like Vallejo Off White. EDIT: Hat trim would be a light grey, such as Vallejo Game Ghost Grey, and then the Off White.

[@lutzderlurch7877]

@@CullodenPaintingStudio Thank you kindly for the advice. I am circling the black hole, that is miniature wargaming, and have yet to decide if I want to jump in or not. The fine videos on painting, such like yours, have been enourmously helpful, so far, taking some of the edge off the fear of having to start with utterly ugly minis. Speaking of mines, I understand a very important part of good mini painting is the quality of molding and modeling on the mini itself. I hase a feeling the details on minis from Warhammer (either variant) and many other fantasy or purely arts based figures seem to be very precisely molded. Many historical figures look like they are not quite as crisply molded. Is that in fact true or am I missing something/looking wrong?

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

@@lutzderlurch7877 that's a fair comment about the quality of casts. I think that a lot of historical figures are made by very small operations with limited resources using more traditional techniques than quite a few of the fantasy/sci fi manufacturers out there. Even the big ones like Warlord Games and Perry Miniatures are small fry compared to Games Workshop. A few companies are now producing kits that have been created using 3D software (Victrix, Wargames Atlantic) and the difference in quality is improving. There are some stunningly rendered historical kits out there if you know where to look, and some wonderfully characterful figures with charming, if not cutting edge, designs too!

[@lutzderlurch7877]

@@CullodenPaintingStudio I understand the big ones design with 3D technology, then convert to CAD/CAM and machines metal molds with high pressure injection molding? What are the 'trditional' methods? Mildly interested, since I am a pattern maker by trade, so casting, foundry work etc. is still interesting to me. I am leaning towards 7YW and AWI, 28mm, British. So you say I should check out Wargames Atlantic and Victrix?

[@zargonfuture4046]

Great tutorial, are those bases 20mm washers?

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

I am using 20mm round MDF bases in this case, though I used pennies for the militia I did earlier as they were close at hand.

[@zargonfuture4046]

@@CullodenPaintingStudio Thanks 👌

[@eog0579]

Could you tell me how you go about varnishing the figures please? Thank you

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

Hello. I varnish with Winsor and Newton professional matt varnish. I use a spray, but is available in bottles too. Wonderful matt finish with this product.

[@eog0579]

@@CullodenPaintingStudio , thank you very much. I have some vallejo matt varnish, would that be suitable do you think, to brush paint? And would I need to thin it? And if so, with what? Sorry, so many questions!!🫤 Thank you again for taking the trouble to answer

[@CullodenPaintingStudio]

@@eog0579 I am happy to help. Vallejo Matt Varnish is good as well. A brush should be fine. I wouldn't thin it, but give it a really good shake before applying as often there is separation in the bottle.

[@eog0579]

@@CullodenPaintingStudio thanks again 👍